Ford Cortina Mk3 2000E Restoration - Ep16 - Outer sill removal
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- Опубліковано 18 вер 2024
- A short step-through video of a first attempt of panel removal on a classic old Ford, which requires some complete panel replacements due to corrosion. Learning about the panel joins, spot weld locations and attempts at finding them on the first attempt.
VERY VERY NICE Spotweld removal Shelley!!!!
Thank you!
I love that gold colour with the black vinyl roof. I remember running my admiring hands across a brand new one when they were launched. (I was a Saturday boy then and the Canterbury Ford showrooms)..
I do love a bit of cortina crust removal !! You're doing great. Thanks for sharing. Mac from Stafford (1300L Brown MK3)
Thanks for watching!
Blimey Shelley mate your really making some seriously good progress on this now, it’s a lot of work but will be well worth it it the end . Nice work dude 👍
Thank you Sir 🙂
Fairly solid car surprisingly. You're doing a great job. My friend had a maroon 1.3 XL with a vinyl roof. He scrapped it in 1998 because of rotten sills. If only the panels were available then it would still be around but you couldn't even find something as simple as a headlight or a dash switch back then.
Thanks Morris. Yes, there certainly seems to be better availability these days then, via Expressed parts or via the vendors at car shows and also eBay NOS & second hand. There are still the odd bits that i cannot locate tho, like the lower scuttle panels (not sure their names) which it looks like I'll have to fabricate.
Hi Shelley, just found your channel and subscribed. A bit late now, but may help you in future, some experience of mine, and I have experimented loads, regarding rust treatment and removal. The first step is to determine whether removal or conversion is what is needed. Whichever you choose, the first, and very important step before applying anything to the rust is removing as much surface rust as possible mechanically, and thorough degreasing. To this end, wire brushes are not your best friend, as new and old ones are generally full of grease, which you then embed in the rust pits you are trying to remove. sanding is always best, but if you have to use a wire brush, soak it in thinners and ensure it is as grease-free as possible before using it. When degreasing the rusty area, use a good aqueous degreaser, as the grease contamination goes into suspension and is washed away completely. Solvents thin out the grease and spread it into the rust pits. For removal, the Bilt Hamber De-ox gel product is fantastic, but you have to be patient and it takes several applications, but leaves you with bright new steel. The best converter I have found is Fertan, but to get the best result with it you need to keep it wet as long as possible. You can do this by spraying it with a fine water mist occasionally and covering with cling film. Once it has dried, it is game over for any further chemical reaction. After it has been on for several hours, possibly overnight, wipe the surface vigorously with a wet cloth, this removes a lot of the loose black residue, dry it, give it a rub down with a red scotch pad, and encapsulate as soon as possible. A fantastic product to coat inner areas and chassis panels is the Rustbuster Epoxy Mastic. For areas that will be final finished, two good coats of epoxy primer is the way to go. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Bob. Thats great advice! I am still at the pre-sanding stage for most of he car and so that's timely advice. I do use Fertan but on the one panel i've tried it on, i didnt remove the black dust as well as you advise, nor scotch it down. Suffice to say, the epoxy primer flaked off within weeks - lesson learned. I will retry with your method.
Wow Shelly, she's very crispy indeed. It's amazing how many spot welds there are. I had to cut my jacking points off as they were so rotten. Great to have finaly met you at the NEC I hope you had a good time.
Yes, i really enjoyed coming to the show and seeing you all on the stand :-) Have you had to cut off the jacking point under the floorpan aswell? Have you found replacements?
@@ShelleysCortina I managed to repair the side pieces but the floorpan ones were too far gone. I need new ones and I have seen them one ebay around £45 each.
Hi,that replacement sill section you have are a 'repair' panel,usually designed to be fitted to the inside of the car hence the cut out for the seat crossmember.
With a bit of thought and carefully removal of the old one you can use as a template to modify the repair section.
You probably will need to 'add' some sections here and there to make it look like the one sill for a fraction of the cost of nos ford ones or Expresssed steel replicas,if Expressed do the full inner sills the if you look at the images on their website you should be able to see where the repair version you have is short the oe sections.
I have done the same with mk1 fiesta and mk3 escort inner sills for both of my own cars.
You do seriously need to start welding in braces to the shell tho as the car will end up like banana where all the weight is sagging where you have it hanging on the rotisserie.
If you want a cheap rust remover get some brick acid cleaner from B&Q,nasty stuff but if you soak it submerged overnight the rust is dissolved within a day or so - obv where the usually PPE and do it outside,then just neutralise the metal.
Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks for the advice Martin. Great to know i wasn;t going mad, and the panel shape on my replacement sill was there for a reason! I think i'll use the old one as a template and use what i have. I'd love to get the Expressed ones but they are £200 a pop and just too much money. Bracing - well pointed out! I knew i had to brace it from a to c pillars, and i need to get down to teh blacksmiths to buy some box section metal. Do you also suggest some vertical support while the B pillar is 'floating'?
@Shelley's Cortina
I'd go parallel down both lengths of sill and across the floor left to right welding those to the parallel ones,you may want to triangulate from tops of B posts to bottom of the ones opposite too ?
Maybe try to take the weight of the shell off the rotisserie just incase it's under any tension on rotisserie alone ??
The pattern sills will be easy to modify with sheet steel pieces to infill the gaps so they resemble the oe/expressed ones.
If you covered it in one of your videos I'm sure you will get plenty of people relating to it as the pattern stuff for our old ford's are plentiful?
👍
Update - I've bitten the bullet and bought a full length inner-sill from Expressed.
@Shelley's Cortina might be the best option in the long run,def quicker time wise too - it's always the toss up between buying the panel that fits as is (££) or spending the time to make what you need to from scratch .
Looking forward to the next video to see your progress.
they curved it becuase its designed to fit as a repair inner section to make it easy, the idea is you smash that curve straight and make it sandwich between
Door braces welded in,, recip saw & cut the lot. Start again with fresh metal. Trying to do it piecemeal is a pita. Retain all you can of the A & B pillars - Ignore the sill spot-welds. Cut it off & cut the whole length of the floor from in front of the drivers footwell right back past the pillar/pillars. It'll be gone bad anyway - cut it where it meets the sill. But weld in bracing first. Or stuff will move.
Thanks James. Would that then mean but-welding a new lip off the floor panel to come up to the inner sill edge?
@@ShelleysCortina Personally, I weld a L section in to join the floor to the inner sill - I plug weld it to the sill using the upstand & overlap it 10mm on the floor - I then plug weld it to the floor as well, weld the seam wherever needs more strength. None of this is seen when the car is retrimmed/undersealed & a neat overlap on the floor looks a lot nicer than just a butt-weld - plus it's waay stronger as it creates a double thickness. I use the new steel on the underside of the floor as that makes welding far easier/stronger. If that makes sense. :-)
Hi Shelley, As @martintrend301 pointed out the repair panel for the inner sill you have, is one of the after market cheap ones, that used to cost about £10, they have the lip as they do fit on the inside, over the rotten original Ford inner sill, and so stop at the rear cross member (where the back seat edge sits on),, and the "Lip" wealds to the floor pan, so that is why it it there, so not a full length inner sill, repair panel, (not the best way to repair the car, as rust transfers on to it from the original touching it, and the same problem in a few years, but by then cars repaired like that generally were scrapped, as not looked after.on the secondhand car market, (normally).with a few exceptions, thus the Mk.3;s that still exist had owners that did look after their cars.
But it was a quick, cheap fix back in the day to get it through an MOT, as a garage would charge £20 for the job, same as when the outer sills rotted and £10 over sills were the common way they got repaired, When my Mk.3's original outer sills rotted through, I bought original Ford outer sills that cost £80 had the originals cut off and new full step sills welded back in, costing £90 per side in 1982, ( so a total of £340 as apposed to £40 ) for both sides, and the car looked original, with the step pressing details, cheap after market sills were "flat on the top of the step", so look wrong, (not factory correct), so when you come to replacing your outer sills, keep that in mind,.
Express Steel Panels make replacement outer Sills that are an exact copy with correct pressing details on the top step, not cheap to buy, but if you want it to look right, or not, the choice is yours, and the same with the inner sills, they should have round holes in the original factory inner sills with black round plastic plugs fitted in them, the replacement cheap inner sills do not have the round holes, they come plain solid steel, also there is a reinforcement plate on original Ford outer sills under the bottom area of the "B" Post, that is not on cheaper after market outer sills, so something else to watch out for. Ford put the reinforcement on the outer sill for a reason, a lot of Mk.3 do not have it with the cheap repair sills fitted, or due to rusting away, but another thing to do if you want the car done right.
Great to hear from you! Yep, having now read both your comments, it has shed some light on what I've actually bought. I will have to use that one for the nearside. I'm hoping the offside is in a much better condition and so may only need some small repairs. I''ll know once I've spun the car and had a good look. I beleive my outer sills are the correct ones - bought from a German company, but will re-check. I've kept the reinforcement plate i cut off from under the B post, and was going to look if they were available to source somewhere as they do seem quite imprtant for stability. I've not seen these referenced anywhere before and so that was quite a surprise to come across with the grinder!
@@ShelleysCortina Hi, the reinforcement panel under the "B" post originally comes attached to the center of Genuine Ford outer step sill, and was not sold as a separate part, which is why unless you find it when removing the original factory sills, or look at a Ford parts diagram, no one would know it was there, I remember being surprised many many years ago, when I found out about it.,
“I’ve hoovered out the sill” (used to be solid metal 45 years ago) 🤣😂🤣😂