I like this guy he speaks on education helping people out on air conditioning refrigeration a lot of technician need training and help which most companies don't do .👀🤔💯👍
Maybe he found the leak and it was small and he’s just charging it up until he can get a new part? Minisplits are notorious for many small leak on the evaporator. No point in repairing it, time for a new one. The copper is super thin too so if you needed to repair it’s quite difficult and you could just render the unit inoperable.
Anytime I’m responding to a mini-split no cool or no heat call the first thing I do is rub my fingers around the outside unit flare nuts looking for compressor oil. You would be surprised at how many techs install a mini split and don’t set the flare nuts to torque specs. Leaks at the flare nuts in my experience are about 75% of mini split calls
Dang and a lot of people comment online about how these units are notorious for leaking when it's just that whoever installed the unit didn't use a torque wrench.
Yep, or you do the hillbilly thing, pop the sucker on turbo as low as the temp will go and get a decent split. So the Gree I work on correctly can get close to 30 Delta T, hillbilly method will only give about 20 to 22 split. No one seems to do the right thing anymore. It's all gas and go.
Hey man I love your videos been allot of help, honestly. Been doing installs for three years and now working my journey to tech. Thanks for the help brother
Also good idea to put the indoor fan in hi or turbo, also put the mode in cool only with lowest setpoint to drive the compressor valve to high percentage as your charge to get what your looking for on performance.
Seasoned techs can guesstimate but only proper way is by weigh in. Too many variable speed components to dial a charge in by sub cool, super heat or pressures
True but I’ve charged them by looking at superheat, subcooling, and temperature split with the fan on full speed many times without problem. No need to dump more money into a dying unit.
Once u have enough time in u can feel systems out via pressures and temperature splits. Guesstimating and getting a customer cooling for a reasonable price is quite possibly what the customer prefers rather than charging for hours of labor to pull a system down just to weigh it back in
On some Mini Splits both lines are the suction line and the metering device is inside the condensing unit. You never just add refrigerant to a mini split. You always remove all the refrigerant and weigh it in because you can’t check the head pressure on a lot of Mini Splits and if you had too much refrigerant, you could damage the compressor.
I miss the old R22 days where you could just bump up the charge until the suction line gets "beer can cold". As long as the evaps clean, it's pretty much a done deal. Plus the 22 ran at half the pressures of the 410A. R12 was another winner. All that stuff still sells in Mexico for pennies. We, in the US, have been bamboozled!
After seeing the pressures are low you should find and fix the leak. And when putting refrigerant back in you should weigh the amount on the label because just a few ounces too much will make it run poorly
On a modern mini split the expansion value is in the outside unit. Ie both refrigerant lines that you see are on the low pressure side. When charged correctly you have low pressure going to inside evaporator coil and the heat adsorbing phase change is just in that coil and not the lines. When undercharged the gas is flashing into vapor before the inside coil. If overcharged the phase change is well into the inside coil and some on the return line too. The capacity of unit peaks when the charge is correct. In ancient mini splits from 2 decades ago and more they were often R22 units and the expansion valve was in the inside at the evaporator coil. This made a noiser unit. But was easier to service since one had high and low pressure taps on the outside unit.
To all those who are saying that the leak must be fixed and the refrigerant charge weighed are correct but it is also still correct to top a system off especially one that doesn't leak much refrigerant. Some of us work towards giving our customers options, especially if they don't have a lot of money to spend. This doesn't violate EPA regs, either.
Correct me if i am wrong, but isn't the meetering device in the condenser before the line come out of the unit? So that line is not a liquid line? Correct?
Check your flare fittings and flares for the leak. If it is leaking try to tighten it down more with a back up wrench. Make sure your flare isnt too big or small and make sure the flare is seated properly before u screw down the flare nut
The proper way would be to remove all refrigerant fix the leak and put only the proper amount of refrigerant back in with some UV dye to confirm the leak fix then check function for a job well done 👏
Both lines are the low side and just an extension of the evaporator. Since your expansion device is buried inside the indoor unit, that smaller line is a liquid line, but cold low pressure liquid, not the usual condenser out subcooled warm liquid.
Had one the guy filled it him self, spilt was off only about 12⁰ said he couldn't find the leak. Found leak within seconds but had 30⁰ split at condenser he got air in the system and overcharged it by 1lbs 9oz.
How about check the filter or the evaporator coil 🤔 what does a plugging or restricted evaporator do to your pressure? And if you do have a leak what about looking and fixing it before you add refrigerant 🤔 just saying.
I always top off mini split. Nothing wrong with that. Own two and one I top off once in a while with a few ounces. If it has a leak, I am not going to worry about it because it uses very little freon. If it comes to having a big leak, then I will replace the unit.
Because a leak of any size will introduce contamination and moisture, Ventruri effect and whatnot. And this contamination is bad for every part of your system in various ways and causes lost capacity and decreased efficiency.. also refrigerants are expensive and in general bad in every way to treat like a consumable. It also sounds like your guessing on charge and if you overcharge enough that compressor is in trouble.
They should build in a “Maintenance Mode” to allow troubleshooting at full operation like working on package units. Many of these things leak from bad flared tubing made at the factory. No way to know if charge is correct since fans, compressors, and even valves are all variable speed.
Ok. But you filled with top-up in mini splits R410....is that safe....i generally remove half of refrigerant into air then I fill with liquid gas in it....
Since there’s only one service port on the refrigerant lines, what is the recommended superheat? Or… does that change according to the ambient temperature?
Must be a single speed compressor ? We always fill mini splits by weight. Where was the leak? charging with no scale? In Canada we have to keep stock of the refrigerant we use. So you are not charging by weight , subcooling or superheat ? So you use a temperature split as your charging benchmark?
Why do you not use a thumbscrew core depressor? I noticed you attach your hose directly to the service port. Dont you worry about burning your fingers or losing some gas?
Would an ac system lose refrigerant over time? Or better yet, is there a reason to get your ac system 'topped off' if you've had it for 5-10+ years and never had an actual leak.
Why do a lot of mini splits not have low pressure cut offs? I replaced one that was running with zero refrigerant? And an AirTemp compressor seized up from running for weeks with nearly no refrigerant.
you did the equivalent of disconnecting check engine light on your car. now it looks fine, but the problem was never addressed. on the mini-splt being low on refrigerant you added refrigerant, but did it fix the problem? why was it low on refrigerant? leak? unless, you already addressed that issue off camera and I'm just making an ass outta myself for no good reason? ;)
I’m about to take this industrial and electrical class here shortly any advice for the weary lol…I need to be able to read schematics better as far as troubleshooting I’m good at that but sometimes I second guess it so I think learning electrical a bit better would help with my all around HVAC knowledge
Vapor line looks like an ice cube and my liquid line is not barely cooler than ambient. Vary little cooling inside and no heat rejection outside. Any ideas?
I don’t think that line it’s called the liquid line. It’s low pressure starting from the outlet of the condensing unit. Metering device is in the condensing unit.
@@GoatzombieBubba 8 hours?! i get below 300 microns in less than 5 minutes on a mini split… you have leaks in your system or you’re using bad equipment/ tools.
@@TaddyDigest then why is a TXV abbreviated in that fashion? Similar to the TXV, the electronic expansion valve (EXV) controls the flow of liquid refrigerant entering a DX evaporator. An EXV's operation is more advanced than a standard TXV. The EXV uses a step motor to open and close the valve port in response to signal sent from an electronic controller.
@@TaddyDigest the only proper way to charge a mini split is to recover the charge and weigh it and compared it to the label on the unit. I have service Mini Splits before that depending on the load the exv will run the vapor lines at or below 100 PSI which will make you think the system is low on charge when in fact it is not.
I don't have much experience with mini splits, can someone tell me why both lines sweat? My guess is that the expansion valve is inside the condenser...see now I don't know what I'm talking about someone tell me why please.
Why is my aircon not cold after vacumming and topping up gas. The service guy did not do nitrogen flush for the 2nd time after the first time he accidentally leaked my r32 gas. He only proceed to revacuum and topup. Aircon is not as cold before. Low pressure is 130.
Anyone know why I would have low side pressure mine also is at 50 psi in cooling mode. It seems to heat and run ac no problem I fixed leak and put some refridgerant in it, but it still runs at 50 psi in cooling mode (originally after Leak it wouldn't heat or cool)
The Best way to tell if your low on charge is to look at your vapor saturated temperature, If it is below 32 degrees you know your low on charge. The freezing point of liquids is 32 degrees, so when you add refrigerant to the system you want to make sure your above 32 degrees but never above 45 vapor saturated temperature 👍🏽
I am pretty sure in a mini split you’re not supposed to add refrigerant you were supposed to recover the charge, Repair the leak, re-leak search it, vacuum the system down, and then weigh the refrigerant back in to manufacture specifications
9 outta 10 times it's a bad flare joint. Don't use the factory flare ends on new line sets. Make new flares & use the correct flare nut that comes with male end. Oh yeah & use nylog!
!he electrician installed his own Mini split, Ignore all the advice from the guys that know and did not use a torque wrench on the fittings, with the standard result! The fluid leaked out and I got to do it again.! Lucky for me, I know one of you. My friends is in the trade! after I got the leak stopped, he came out and filled it up for me again! Moral of the story: Listen to the h v a c guys that do it all the time!! Torque down the fittings!
People always got something to say on a short video. He didn’t do a whole 10-15 minute video from each step. Good lawd some of y’all need a chill pill.
If your watching a UA-cam video to work on your ac, save yourself some headache and call someone. Probably save you money in the long run. Just my opinion
Big question is where is it leaking. I'll tell you. It's those shity connections where it connects to the evaporator. When installing these systems just cut those fittings off and sweat them together.
I like this guy he speaks on education helping people out on air conditioning refrigeration a lot of technician need training and help which most companies don't do .👀🤔💯👍
thank you
It’s leaking… leak should have been addressed first.
Maybe he found the leak and it was small and he’s just charging it up until he can get a new part? Minisplits are notorious for many small leak on the evaporator. No point in repairing it, time for a new one. The copper is super thin too so if you needed to repair it’s quite difficult and you could just render the unit inoperable.
Could have just been a loose flair.
@@Practicing_HVACR replacement is basically addressing it. So it’s fine
The customer doesn't always want to pay for a leak search, plus you can tell the customer is a cheapskate because they put in a junky diy mini split.
@@andrewgilbreath1331 yea true some people just don’t give a damn and waste money you got a point there
Anytime I’m responding to a mini-split no cool or no heat call the first thing I do is rub my fingers around the outside unit flare nuts looking for compressor oil. You would be surprised at how many techs install a mini split and don’t set the flare nuts to torque specs. Leaks at the flare nuts in my experience are about 75% of mini split calls
yes sir I agree
Dang and a lot of people comment online about how these units are notorious for leaking when it's just that whoever installed the unit didn't use a torque wrench.
Correct way is to recover the charge and weight in the correct amount after the leak has been found and repaired
Yep, or you do the hillbilly thing, pop the sucker on turbo as low as the temp will go and get a decent split.
So the Gree I work on correctly can get close to 30 Delta T, hillbilly method will only give about 20 to 22 split.
No one seems to do the right thing anymore. It's all gas and go.
Hey man I love your videos been allot of help, honestly. Been doing installs for three years and now working my journey to tech. Thanks for the help brother
You're welcome, my friend. I'm glad you're here, and i'm glad you're watching my videos
Cool bro thanks. I hate minis and heat pumps tho. I'll learn them soon
Also good idea to put the indoor fan in hi or turbo, also put the mode in cool only with lowest setpoint to drive the compressor valve to high percentage as your charge to get what your looking for on performance.
Thanks for the tips!
I thought you weren't supposed to top off minisplits, recover and charge by weight from scratch is how I've always been taught. Even by Mitsubishi
always factory charge yes
Mini splits run at a very low superheat 0-5 can do it that way 2
Seasoned techs can guesstimate but only proper way is by weigh in. Too many variable speed components to dial a charge in by sub cool, super heat or pressures
True but I’ve charged them by looking at superheat, subcooling, and temperature split with the fan on full speed many times without problem. No need to dump more money into a dying unit.
Once u have enough time in u can feel systems out via pressures and temperature splits. Guesstimating and getting a customer cooling for a reasonable price is quite possibly what the customer prefers rather than charging for hours of labor to pull a system down just to weigh it back in
On some Mini Splits both lines are the suction line and the metering device is inside the condensing unit. You never just add refrigerant to a mini split. You always remove all the refrigerant and weigh it in because you can’t check the head pressure on a lot of Mini Splits and if you had too much refrigerant, you could damage the compressor.
I miss the old R22 days where you could just bump up the charge until the suction line gets "beer can cold". As long as the evaps clean, it's pretty much a done deal. Plus the 22 ran at half the pressures of the 410A. R12 was another winner. All that stuff still sells in Mexico for pennies. We, in the US, have been bamboozled!
After seeing the pressures are low you should find and fix the leak. And when putting refrigerant back in you should weigh the amount on the label because just a few ounces too much will make it run poorly
On a modern mini split the expansion value is in the outside unit. Ie both refrigerant lines that you see are on the low pressure side.
When charged correctly you have low pressure going to inside evaporator coil and the heat adsorbing phase change is just in that coil and not the lines.
When undercharged the gas is flashing into vapor before the inside coil.
If overcharged the phase change is well into the inside coil and some on the return line too.
The capacity of unit peaks when the charge is correct.
In ancient mini splits from 2 decades ago and more they were often R22 units and the expansion valve was in the inside at the evaporator coil. This made a noiser unit. But was easier to service since one had high and low pressure taps on the outside unit.
Topped off a blended refrigerant in a mini split great idea bud. 😮
To all those who are saying that the leak must be fixed and the refrigerant charge weighed are correct but it is also still correct to top a system off especially one that doesn't leak much refrigerant. Some of us work towards giving our customers options, especially if they don't have a lot of money to spend. This doesn't violate EPA regs, either.
Thank you thank you thank you
I'm glad there are people like you out here
Really appreciate you
Correct me if i am wrong, but isn't the meetering device in the condenser before the line come out of the unit? So that line is not a liquid line? Correct?
It’s still liquid going to the head unit
Check your flare fittings and flares for the leak. If it is leaking try to tighten it down more with a back up wrench. Make sure your flare isnt too big or small and make sure the flare is seated properly before u screw down the flare nut
The proper way would be to remove all refrigerant fix the leak and put only the proper amount of refrigerant back in with some UV dye to confirm the leak fix then check function for a job well done 👏
Now the million dollar question, why is it low on refrigerant and how was it addressed?
Good job thanks for the advise and the teaching
Both lines are the low side and just an extension of the evaporator. Since your expansion device is buried inside the indoor unit, that smaller line is a liquid line, but cold low pressure liquid, not the usual condenser out subcooled warm liquid.
Had one the guy filled it him self, spilt was off only about 12⁰ said he couldn't find the leak. Found leak within seconds but had 30⁰ split at condenser he got air in the system and overcharged it by 1lbs 9oz.
How about check the filter or the evaporator coil 🤔 what does a plugging or restricted evaporator do to your pressure? And if you do have a leak what about looking and fixing it before you add refrigerant 🤔 just saying.
Should both lines be cold on a mini split or just the suction?
I always top off mini split. Nothing wrong with that. Own two and one I top off once in a while with a few ounces. If it has a leak, I am not going to worry about it because it uses very little freon. If it comes to having a big leak, then I will replace the unit.
Very cool bro
Because a leak of any size will introduce contamination and moisture, Ventruri effect and whatnot. And this contamination is bad for every part of your system in various ways and causes lost capacity and decreased efficiency.. also refrigerants are expensive and in general bad in every way to treat like a consumable. It also sounds like your guessing on charge and if you overcharge enough that compressor is in trouble.
Bom trabalho, vejo seus vídeos de Maceió-AL Brasil.
They should build in a “Maintenance Mode” to allow troubleshooting at full operation like working on package units. Many of these things leak from bad flared tubing made at the factory. No way to know if charge is correct since fans, compressors, and even valves are all variable speed.
That is a very interesting fitting, never seen one of those before. Looks like it just screws on?
Are you suppose to check for leak first
Recover pressure test vacuum refill
Ok. But you filled with top-up in mini splits R410....is that safe....i generally remove half of refrigerant into air then I fill with liquid gas in it....
Since there’s only one service port on the refrigerant lines, what is the recommended superheat? Or… does that change according to the ambient temperature?
Must be a single speed compressor ? We always fill mini splits by weight. Where was the leak? charging with no scale? In Canada we have to keep stock of the refrigerant we use. So you are not charging by weight , subcooling or superheat ? So you use a temperature split as your charging benchmark?
Why do you not use a thumbscrew core depressor? I noticed you attach your hose directly to the service port. Dont you worry about burning your fingers or losing some gas?
It's the dreaded mr cool!
Would an ac system lose refrigerant over time? Or better yet, is there a reason to get your ac system 'topped off' if you've had it for 5-10+ years and never had an actual leak.
Should never run out of refrigerant If it does then there is a leak
Why do a lot of mini splits not have low pressure cut offs? I replaced one that was running with zero refrigerant? And an AirTemp compressor seized up from running for weeks with nearly no refrigerant.
How about fixing the leak
Enjoy your vids Bro
Thank you my friend
Question is why is it low of refrigerant on a closed system?
The man !
I love learning
Which company do you work for bro, I would be interested to work as I'm presently working as a HVAC Forman in Kuwait
Changed a evaporator coil in a head today really tight and it definitely sucked lol
you did the equivalent of disconnecting check engine light on your car.
now it looks fine, but the problem was never addressed. on the mini-splt
being low on refrigerant you added refrigerant, but did it fix the problem?
why was it low on refrigerant? leak? unless, you already addressed that issue
off camera and I'm just making an ass outta myself for no good reason?
;)
Are these videos in the member’s only page
There are a bunch of videos on my members only playlist
I’m about to take this industrial and electrical class here shortly any advice for the weary lol…I need to be able to read schematics better as far as troubleshooting I’m good at that but sometimes I second guess it so I think learning electrical a bit better would help with my all around HVAC knowledge
Bad info. Freon went somewhere. Now you have mix charge if R410a. No worries hopefully the next guy will fix it right
Vapor line looks like an ice cube and my liquid line is not barely cooler than ambient. Vary little cooling inside and no heat rejection outside. Any ideas?
Hope you found the leak after the you finished filming and repaired it
yup in the quick connects
No leak check before recharging?
no needs replacement
It’s a Mr Cool probably HO DIY not worth fixing.
I don’t think that line it’s called the liquid line. It’s low pressure starting from the outlet of the condensing unit. Metering device is in the condensing unit.
Very good I work on those split in my country
any 110 volt mini's with heat ? that arent power hogs? Campground has a pile of people wondering
mr.kool is not cool anymore
no leak search? or is it because of diy stuff?
diy stuff
@@TaddyDigestNice job anyway, enough for the diy stuff 😂
As long as Temps are good it's all good the compressor ain't starving from freon
After you know there's a leak... Step 1: find/fix leak. Step 2: recover/vac system. Step 3: WEIGH IN THE CHARGE (even more important on mini splits)
Not everyone wants to wait 8 hours for a vac down and weigh in when it is 100 degrees out.
@@GoatzombieBubba 8 hours?! i get below 300 microns in less than 5 minutes on a mini split… you have leaks in your system or you’re using bad equipment/ tools.
Estimate for a 4 mini splits in every units three family house ???
Yeah, I'd also like 5 estimates for my imaginary homes. You know I just want to know prices. Get to work taddy! 😁
Where's the leak though? Did the freon magically evaporate?
indoor coil
Fix the leak first smart guy!
They are both vapor lines controlled by EXV.
eev
@@TaddyDigest then why is a TXV abbreviated in that fashion?
Similar to the TXV, the electronic expansion valve (EXV) controls the flow of liquid refrigerant entering a DX evaporator. An EXV's operation is more advanced than a standard TXV. The EXV uses a step motor to open and close the valve port in response to signal sent from an electronic controller.
@@TaddyDigest the only proper way to charge a mini split is to recover the charge and weigh it and compared it to the label on the unit. I have service Mini Splits before that depending on the load the exv will run the vapor lines at or below 100 PSI which will make you think the system is low on charge when in fact it is not.
Your the man, very interesting
I appreciate that!
I see Mr Cool, I either walk away or say they need a Mitsubishi
both lines are vapor lines as the metering device is in the condenser
Another sure sign it’s low is most mini splits the Blower won’t ramp up because the ID coil sensor or
Thermistor not reading proper temp.
Very good thank you so much for adding this
Good stuff
Compressor discharge line. If you can't hold it for more than a few seconds without getting burned then it doesn't have enough gas
absolutely
As well as, with a mini split you can expect a TD higher than 20°
yupp
I don't have much experience with mini splits, can someone tell me why both lines sweat? My guess is that the expansion valve is inside the condenser...see now I don't know what I'm talking about someone tell me why please.
Charge it and run..
I'll be back next week to charge it, and you, again!
Awesome job thank you so much
You are very welcome
Video & clips like yours makes me wanna learn on UA-cam instead of going to school for it😂
do it bro
We're is your video on how to work on mini split
ua-cam.com/video/93ZD8po4ln8/v-deo.html
where do I get the refrigerant
from a hvac wholesaler or distributor
How to improperly add freon to a mini split.
It has to be completely recovered and evacuated to add freon....
I can do a video on that too That's a good title thanks
Why is my aircon not cold after vacumming and topping up gas. The service guy did not do nitrogen flush for the 2nd time after the first time he accidentally leaked my r32 gas. He only proceed to revacuum and topup. Aircon is not as cold before. Low pressure is 130.
In heating the vapor line pressure which is the large line should be at least three hundred.
@@TaddyDigest mine is the minisplit aircon. Dont have heating function
Where's the scale at? Don't you gotta document how much refrigerant you add?
Anyone know why I would have low side pressure mine also is at 50 psi in cooling mode. It seems to heat and run ac no problem I fixed leak and put some refridgerant in it, but it still runs at 50 psi in cooling mode (originally after Leak it wouldn't heat or cool)
Did you factory charge the equipment? Are you sure it's charged correctly
@TaddyDigest not really sure how to tell is the pressure the only way to know if it has enough refridgerant
Mini splits can have a much greater Delta T though
Not the liquid line pal. Metering device is in the condenser, they’re both vapor lines.
No scale is wild
The Best way to tell if your low on charge is to look at your vapor saturated temperature, If it is below 32 degrees you know your low on charge. The freezing point of liquids is 32 degrees, so when you add refrigerant to the system you want to make sure your above 32 degrees but never above 45 vapor saturated temperature 👍🏽
Very good my brother yes sir you're exactly right
@@TaddyDigest Yo teddy, Do you have a number i can contact for assistance? Im having trouble with a samsung inverter error code
I am pretty sure in a mini split you’re not supposed to add refrigerant you were supposed to recover the charge, Repair the leak, re-leak search it, vacuum the system down, and then weigh the refrigerant back in to manufacture specifications
Thanks for advice
I did this just to show what it looks like when one is low
@@TaddyDigest yeah. All good. Keep doing your vids. I’ll keep watching.
Thanks bro
My big pipe is not cooling at all
Plz how can I solve it
Check the refrigerant levels with gauges
What about the leak?
what about the obvious leak
I was always told on a mini split get the pressure to 140 and leave it alone😂😂
9 outta 10 times it's a bad flare joint. Don't use the factory flare ends on new line sets. Make new flares & use the correct flare nut that comes with male end. Oh yeah & use nylog!
Excellent advice
!he electrician installed his own Mini split, Ignore all the advice from the guys that know and did not use a torque wrench on the fittings, with the standard result! The fluid leaked out and I got to do it again.! Lucky for me, I know one of you. My friends is in the trade! after I got the leak stopped, he came out and filled it up for me again! Moral of the story: Listen to the h v a c guys that do it all the time!! Torque down the fittings!
People always got something to say on a short video. He didn’t do a whole 10-15 minute video from each step. Good lawd some of y’all need a chill pill.
I agree bro
what is a mini split? is that like a double wide?
No scale?
Not a liquid line, but point made.
Mitsubishi calls it a liquid line. I like calling it an expansion line.
It's usually low pressure liquid.
If your watching a UA-cam video to work on your ac, save yourself some headache and call someone. Probably save you money in the long run. Just my opinion
How about measuring sub-cooling and superheat ... duh!
lol 😆 🤣
Best on those is to start over and recover charge and weigh in, such a pain.
yup exactly
@@TaddyDigestjason
Look like a guy I went to martin park with
Big question is where is it leaking.
I'll tell you. It's those shity connections where it connects to the evaporator. When installing these systems just cut those fittings off and sweat them together.
A guy that gives a shit, you Taddy is the shit
Looked like on camera the liquid line was flattened about 6" from valve
Crazy
Rejecting heat is always good. Lol
Oh yeah
How many pounds did you add?
2
First problem is your working on a P.O.S. Mr. Cool, throw it out and put in a nice mini split, fujitsu
Good call!
yes you got it right BUT! the best way you can know is standing pressure . looks like you need more training !
Thanks for your support thank you for watching