If I spent that much time fussing around with my tools, I'd never get any work done. And I can't imagine keeping my tools at a storage unit. That would be another huge barrier to getting things done. I have one big toolbox. Some people call it a pick up truck. I could be sitting in my house and think to myself; "I need a pair of pliers right now", and have them in my hand 30 seconds later.
Because he rarely uses them , there's no way he uses those tools on a daily basis like techs who unload and load their tools on several different job's per day. And I'm sure Fieldpiece gives him a kick back in some form or another. Obviously they wouldn't want to show off dirty tools eh.
This guy is neat and methodical. Able to explain the process and reasoning while he does the work. This man will provide well for his family and realize fulfillment in his life. Thank you for making this video.
Mini-splits with their flares were designed to sell refrigerant, I feel. I had a fitting that leaked for years, despite re-flaring twice and torqueing perfectly to spec. Out of desperation, I finally just hoses it down with bubble fluid, backed the nut off and then re-cranked, going way past the specified torque and watching the bubbles. After a pretty good amount of torque, the bubbles tapered off and stopped and it hasn't leaked since (at least 4 years now).
My boss at my first company had no idea what to do with these systems. Torquing to spec with new wrench we had countless leaks, key is like you said, backing off and then retorquing, torquing all at once causes tortional friction and backing off half turn cures this issue. Still haven't decided whether like design but open minded. Weird as fuck not in directions first place.
A lot of the copper that’s on shelves now is like paper. It doesn’t glide as nice on the face of the flare like it used to. Nylog helps but still every tenth flare just won’t seal. It’s absolutely that the copper is too brittle and flimsy
Oldtimers like me don't use flare wrenches. We use good old 10-point open flare wrenches, and learn by feel how tight to pull up the flare nut. That's where experience comes in. I never had one of my flare connections leak, not then or over time.
10 lb-ft seems too low, maybe with lube its enough. I would almost think that a better torque spec would involve a stage 1 torque to 50% of the desired lb-ft, then stage 2 with a degree gauge and torque another number of degrees of rotation. I DIY installed a mini-split 3 years ago and it still runs great, but I know I went well over the torque spec and tightened it by feel.
My boss never trusted the torque specs. He said they say that you're not supposed to overtighten, but the only way he's ever gotten them to stay was to tighten the shit out of them. I'm my experience they will often hold charge, at torque, but can loosen over time.
Every leak I have seen on one of these systems has been at the flare, either inside or outside. On one job, I followed a well known local contractor who used "Leak Lok" on the flares. Good flares, and oil only, for me.
Im not an HVAC person at all but I love learning how to diagnose and fix things (or at least know what to tell a specialist.) I appreciate you taking the mystery out of it and your editing is really on point
Yeah. The contractor loves to be told by a youtube university student how to do their job. Keep waiting for sleepy joe to pay off your multiple degrees
I am an instructor at a trade school and I like to show my students how to check and run a proper vacuum and not to take my words as gospel but to go out and see how pros in the field ard doing it and to check if what I am teaching them is proper because they have come back to me and have told me some people are putting the micron guage on the vacuum pump so I use your video for them to check it out for themselves. I like to thsnk you for sharing
I've seen this great video a few times. This guy is smart, shows a lot of "workmanship integrity", and has all the essential equipment. I'd love to be able to call on someone like this if needed! In my area, sure, we have HVAC technicians, but I have no reason to believe they know what they're doing or are as well-equipped as the technician in this nice video. Much appreciated!
Experience is invaluable when doing flares. I used to use a drop of oil on the flaring cone. For 410 a drop of nylog. Experience might let you not use a torque wrench to tighten. For most use the torque wrench to tighten to specs. Also i coat both sides of the flare with nylog. The only leak i ever had was a siding contractor hit the condensor unit outside after a unit was a couple years old and it leaked. Great advice in this video
I use Nylog on R22 also, there's two different types available, red and blue depending on the refrigerant. It's good stuff, I use it as lube when flaring too.
370 lbs of pressure on the Nitrogen. I do automotive A/C at work and have for years. These Mini-splits are new to me. Great job showing Fieldpiece equipment and features. I have used shop air for years when I suspect a leak. Tried it all. Soapy water still is great for any leak detection.
Dude! You're a PRO. I owned a residential swimming pool business and this is the caliber of organization and step by step troubleshooting and repair that I always aimed for.
The man is clean, looks and sounds really confident. Tools are clean and of good quality and the man knows his tools. Everything screams pro. Nice vid bro. Big up!!
Usually, once a guy has made a poor quality flare on the outside, you need to make new flares and on the indoor unit as well. Take this advice from colleague from Bulgaria with 24yrs. experience with this type of AC units.
true, so true, you see i hate when someone do poor job, but soo many bad jobs around, eaven with so call it professionals. once i was on cleaning job small ac unit, soooo stinky, i was yea its dirti, so i clean it full, like fan was out, and i got second call still stinks, i go back, and its true, i was like wtf, i eaven tought about pets, owners etc...and after like 5h making a fool of myself tinking wtf, i discovered small electrical smell device near ac unit, and you know what, smell was gone
Rule of thumb, check all flares indoor and out, 5 more mins might just save you hours of work. Poor copper flared from my experience always has hard spots and don't never seat well.
only thing hate about the mini's the flared connections not great for the higher pressures with R410a, braised line sets normal splits better so many situations have went with PTAC thru wall units better than installing mini splits if lower wall unit not an issue where installed, sun rooms, workshops, get as good of pricing on small PTAC as mini split.
I blew it at community college. The refrigeration teacher befriended me but I was in the biology department. I should have switched to a trade. I never used the dumb biology degree. RIP Ray. Thanks for being a friend when I needed one. Great video and nice equipment demo.
Nice vid bro as always. One suggestion on my Sman Guages it tells you to put the temp clamp on the suction line in order to self adjust the pressure drop based off of line temp. Not sure if yours has this feature but makes me more confident in my flares! And keeps me from guessing if the small pressure drops were from my hoses leaking or line temp changing.
Won’t work on these systems with VFDs… Depending on the multiple thermistors and temperature sensors, you could have super heat of 1 or 2 degrees when running perfectly to specs…
I am enjoying watching you "living" the truck life for service. I started that way and as much as I loved it when I got in a service van I just couldn't justify anything less than a service body. Now after years retired and helping my son get his start with NO new vehicles available in Ca. I find myself back in the truck life looking for that storage unit/garage to call the shop. I will be interested in seeing how you build out that truck, I am a big fan of the deck drawer and matching top system myself if it's just a single trade. If you do go to any of the deck systems buy a rebuild kit for the pullout rollers/latches/locks etc, 2-3 years down the road you will thank yourself when you don't have a 500# plus drawer slamming around until you get replacement parts.
Know nothing about HVAC, but was captivated by your pump. Loved the quick oil change feature, though mine take only a minute and, since mine are used for chambers, I filter my oil and use it again. One of my pumps has a filter and I get nothing in the air from it, as it builds vacuum. The other mists until I build a significant vacuum. On a whim, I used an old CPAP hose to move the mist away. It worked and, if I had to move it a long ways, I could push air in from a Y to assist moving the mist out of the shop. All this is to say, I loved that exhaust feature on your pump.
That nylock goes on just the back side of the flare like you did but not on the threads, it’s a dry torque spec. A triple evacuation method is good practice to do on these types of systems as well when you open that line set to the outside air, it is a few extra mins but it’s what the install manual calls for. Keep up the good work
@@sprockkets no it isn't. During vacuum ice will form possibly plugging the txv or other restriction points.. what about the micron Guage changes that ?
@@Jdrichardson35christ You need to do research on this topic at the hvac school channel hosted by Brian or with Jim Bergmann. The nitrogen you put in does little to dry out the lines. It was done because it recalibrates micron gauges from the past. Think: if you get a 50 micron reading while doing a vacuum, you have no moisture in the first place. I reach that in less than 5 minutes on a new mini split system, but let it go for 30 min because i can't read the far end.
It’s directly from the installation manual, if that’s what the manufacturer says to do, then that’s what they want you to do. If it was outdated it wouldn’t still be in the installation manual of 2022 model’s
@@Nwflyingsolow I don't care if it is in the instruction manual of installing a Mitsubishi ductless unit. I'm not a tech stuck in the 90s with outdated tools. You are not going to get down to 50 microns with moisture in the lineset, period. You can waste time and nitrogen; I'm not.
In aerospace, when a stainless steel flare fitting leaked, we used a "soft seal" which is a bevelled washer of softer material like copper or aluminum. Might work as well on a copper flare. In a pressure test with N2, the gas initially heats up from the compression so you must wait ~20 min for the temperature to equilibrate, then look for decay from a leak.
I get mini split calls (distributor gives customers my name) that would shock you how they were "professionally" installed. I think a lot of guys assume, "its only a mini split" and they ignore or don't know anything about the unique challenges they pose. #1 you have to have a torque wrench. Most guys dont. #2 you have to have a flare tool- most guys dont. #3 you have to use nylog, most guys dont. AND what I do- if one leaked- I use the flare-tite washers and I have never had a callback for a leak. You probably haven't either. great video--great instruction. One more thing I do- I cut the lineset and braze it. Most guys just leave a huge coil stashed behind which creates oil traps (minor issue on mini splits) but looks really ugly.
I agree. And from what I've read, if you DO leave the lineset long, you should leave the coiled extra horizontal, not vertical, to avoid said oil traps.
On Tuesday I have a crane and mechanics -- two really good guys -- coming to rescue a rooftop unit. (To help the people who are now working in a very hot office.) The outdoor coil failed -- leaks where the guys cannot braze it. This is a difficult situation because a new rooftop unit takes 52 weeks to get so getting a whole new rooftop unit is not possible. But we have a plan! The guys are gonna install a brand-new condenser unit (compressor and outdoor fan). They are gonna connect this new condenser unit to the existing indoor coil. Of course they will connect the power circuit and the control circuit. Besides that they will be using a new refrigerant because the old unit ran on R-22. Pretty sure this is all going to work. I have fixed a lot of stuff in my life -- it is not easy -- so I respect these guys that can figger stuff out and make it work!
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
Thank you very much for this video. New HVAC repair technician coming to diagnose leak that previous two techs failed to fix! Will help with insuring a through job is done.
If we threw our hoses on the ground (in the grass) our teacher made us wear them around our neck for the rest of the day 🤣 Otherwise, great job!! I hate mini splits for this reason, never trust a mechanical connection, a light tap with a lawnmower will cause a leak. EDIT - Look at the siding behind that unit, it's cracked! That means a weedwhacker has been behind it...
Man….you made it clear and concise. Real easy to follow. I don’t know if I can afford your tool setup but definitely can follow your directions. Definitely got a sub from me
Damm Bro congratulations on your channel's growth. I can definitely see why. You made this look so easy and your explanations are on point. keep it up. Really enjoy your content.
Great Videos. Your organization is impressive. We loved our Mitsubishi's so much that when we built out our cabin we put in Mini-splits and at the advice of the Plumber we went with Fujutsu for their ability to run in colder temps. That house has 6 heads, 2 zones and I'm ready to rage on these units They've been nothing but trouble. I suspect bad copper is the issue but I have a new plumber trying to salvage these units as they're constantly underperforming and in need of a recharge. I hope for the plumber's sake and the sake of my wallet that the troubleshooting is this easy. Ripping them out and starting over would SUCK!!! One piece of advice for those considering Mini-splits, those indoor units need a fair amount of TLC to remain effective and efficient. I had one of my Mitsu units start to struggle and it required a thorough indoor unit cleaning. It's not a hard thing to do but you'll make a mess and take up an hour of your day. The drain line was clogged which was the root of the issue but the unit being filthy didn't help. I was shocked that my local company quoted 3 hours per head at $150 an hour. I was able to clean mine with a youtube video like this and about $25 worth of cleaner and plastic sheets to minimize the mess.
When installing these units we always cut the flare connections for the wall unit, and braze them to the refrigerant lines. that way you can always eliminate the possibility of them leaking as well. I bet you if it was leaking at the condensor flares, it's also leaking at the wall unit flares.
if there was another leak, he would not be able to pull the unit down below 500 microns, he could triple evacuate as well and that proves there is not another leak. I do agree with you, while your there you might as well check the other connections.
@@Omaha__ I just did 4 houses and pulled each house down to 150 microns, short linesets, and 3 of them held with less than a rise of over 200 during a 10min decay. My fourth house held 250psi nitrogen pressure, but when I pulled vacuum, I could get it down to 243 Microns, but a rise just over 1000 in 10 min decay. I always attach my micron gauge at the end of the system. Turns out my leak was at the beginning. This is why leak decays are always required.
Love the channel. It’s funny in the UK we have to take F-Gas course to be able to handle refrigerant. On the practical if you let any refrigerant out from anywhere you fail the exam.
Nah fam, as soon as you remove the old flare I would recommend redoing the flare. I know it might look good but that flare was already pressed down when they tried to torque it. That’s just my way of doing it. I don’t trust others flaring other than my own.
I have the same evac pump and hose. Love it! It sure does make it faster. Also, I’m glad you explained how you set up to the the port on the mini-split. I’ve noticed the same thing. There’s not much you can do, unless the port is designed better.
I ran into the issue of not being able to get the core removal tool yesterday. I took the anchors off the foot tabs and slid the heat pump over the edge so I could get it on. So much faster with the valve core removed, but with such a small and short lineset probably didn't make much of a difference.
Thoughtful installers could position the valves beyond the edge of the support base, or he could have done the mod here. Short line set so evacuation probably didn’t take too long.
Boy, do I wish you were closer to Greensboro, NC! Your professionalism and attention to detail is so impressive! I have a 40 year old Trane 1200 I will be replacing in the spring. My electrician/HVAC guy is recommending changing to a heat pump as it is only a little bit more money. Air handler is in a very large and accessible attic. All of the air supply line are very robust and actually over engineered, so no need to change. Would love to hear your suggestions on type / brand of heat pump, rough idea of possible costs, things I should look out for. Your help would be appreciated , love the channel!
Just a quick heads up when pressure testing. Use caution when you’re going much above the “low side test pressure”. When pressure testing you will usually want to use no more than a systems low side rated pressure.
I was thinking about that when I was watching the video. Any suggestions about safe level when it is unknown, because I think it is unknown on the machines I will work on after exam. My previous thought was do not go over HP-switch rating with equalized pressures. I kind of wanna blow LP-switches on purpose in shop just to know. (Talking about line set braced on sensors, not adjustable).
That wouldn't be code in BC. Here there are set amounts of pressure to test for the high and low. Since they'd be wanting to equalize, I was taught to hit both sides with the high side amount. Roughly 300 PSI for r22 and 450 for r410a
Most of my bosses like to use rules of thumb. Mine are typically 400 for 410a, 200 for most low/medium temp refrigeration applications. Never go over the high switch rating. You’re looking for leaks, not trying to create them.
My mini-split was installed on the same style pad as the one in your video - in my Michigan winter, ice built up underneath, and I had to raise it two feet above the ground, and regularly remove the ice build-up.
When using the pressure test on the manifold, you are supposed to also hook up your temperature probe to measure temperature of the line to account for Pressure-Temperature relation
@Keith Wiebe not sure what exactly you're asking, but I'm just simply stating what the instruction manual for those gauges say about the tightness test function on the manifold.
@@MurderTeam1995 Maybe I misunderstood your answer. Perhaps you were referring to checking the pressure drop with temp in checking for leaks with nitrogen. I at first thought you were talking about how to fill up system according to temperature. You're not suppose to do that but I did on mine.
I only had 1 problem with flares and it was a factory done flare. The 3/8" flare was made ultra thin and worked for 1 week then it blew out. I check all flares now because it is very embarrassing having a leak .
Good job on using the Nylog on just the threads of the flares. Nylog on flares at the unit is common practice these days due to vibration at the unit connections.
It's easy as hell. If you want to make serious money...go learn it and you too can rip those fukrs heads off and make bank. Like taking candy from a baby
Def. not a pro. I know a little bit about HVAC, but I'm def. a tool lover and will say that set of tools looks slick. Packs nice, minimalistic, and shows you good data. I were to use stuff like this on a daily I'd definably want a system like you have.
This has been the exact issue with mine after the same tech couldn't get his reamer tool to make a good enough flair. Finally was able to do so after two visits (no charge).
The most common issue with the "mini splits" (as you fellow Americans are calling them) is the capacitor, a leak in the system is just a bad job, or poor quality fittings. One free tip, stop installing them on the ground, just hang them on the wall (if possible) just like the rest of the world, it's easier to get moisture on the internal pcb or to be clogged, also shorter tubes increase efficiency. I have been running a 24k BTU Mitsubishi Heavy Industries AC for 15 years without any major issue, after 10 years it only needed a capacitor replacement
I'm not sure what you mean by capacitor. Most modern units have VFDs that run the compressor. There is a capacitor, or bank of capacitors on the control board. Is that what you mean? There is no start or run cap like the older units.
Nice video, between the $660 fieldpiece VP87, the $530 SM380V, $200 TRQ1080 torque wrench kit, $550 trublu evacuation hose/adapter kit, $220 MG44 vacuum gauge, and a $330 SRS3 Wireless Scale with Remote. That's like $2,500 in test equipment... I'm sure the N2 & R410A cans aren't cheap either. O_O;
But having all of that stuff and knowing how to use it quickly like that, he's making that money back in days or weeks and it'll last a long time I'ms ure with how he treats his stuff.
Raiden my thoughts exactly. I mean, don’t get me wrong, good tools and equipment sure are nicer for the tech worker and are usually the sign of a good job well done. But not always. In my town, the customers can’t afford to pay for what that equipment is worth, just means it’ll take me longer to build up to that level is all.
This is why homeowners really shouldn't be doing refrigeration work themselves. The pre-flared ends make it POSSIBLE to do it yourself, but there are just too many service tools required to do the job properly, and if something goes wrong, a homeowner would never be able to move past that point, if they're even aware of it. Then they end up calling a service guy anyway, and don't we just LOVE coming in behind someone that's screwed something up...
One interesting thought....I would like to see an episode where you do this kind of work with no high tech instruments. Years ago we had no fancy gauges, hoses, vacuum pumps, etc. In spite of a lack of new type tools we were still able to achieve a high success rate in install where many systems remained viable for 20 to 30 years.
There has always been gauges and temp probes for a very long time, before the time of refrigeration. They just weren't on fancy, but still same concept. Micron gauges however were analog and were far less accurate, that I will contest.
with newer refrigerants, higher pressures, saturation levels more specific, sometimes takes more modern tech, but Still do most work with the old style gauges just fine.
The EPA made the job a little harder freon rules. Still pretty easy though. 25k if they catch you letting too much freon into the atmosphere. At least that was the case 30yrs. ago when I was doing HVAC.
One note: anytime you're using a torque wrench you can't re position the wrench when you're close to the torque spec. If you're trying to hit 10 ft/lbs but stop at 9 ft/lbs and reposition the wrench, the wrench will hit 10 ft/lbs and click without tightening the nut at all because it takes more torque to get it started tightening again, so you will still be at 9. That also means multiple clicks on a torque wrench does not work for checking if something is properly torqued. It takes like 130-140% of the torque load to get the nut moving again.
That is not blanket true - many multi stage tightening procedures have less than a 130% jump to final torque. Also he was using a thread/joint lubricant which makes it less sensitive. Will agree that one smooth motion to final torque is best.
@@paintballthieupwns 130-140% isn't really the important part, if you stop early to reposition and the wrench clicks without moving the nut you're at the wrong torque. Thread lubricant is a whole other can of worms since it's impossible to get the correct torque without the lubricant being included in the spec. I assumed it was a sealant and/or anti-seize not lubricant.
No sir, there are no absolutes in reality when it comes to this. It depends on a number of factors - composition of the nut/bolt, thread sealer being used, any debris or rust present, any lubrication used, and so on. I get where you came up with that, but to say "(x) amount of force is needed to do (y)" is wildly variable.
@@karlchilders5420 Like I already stated, the % is not even the important part. It doesn't matter if it takes 110% or 190%, with a click wrench you don't even know what torque you're at when you stop anyways. The point is, if you stop and start again and the bolt doesn't move before the click you're at the wrong torque. Nut composition, sealants and lubricants are all part of developing the torque spec. Using dirty/rusty bolts again, is a different conversation.
I’ve seen the bigger companies throw several techs at an install and they are rolling out in just a few hours and I always wonder how the connections will hold up to several heat/cool cycles when clearly the pressure and vacuum tests were brief. Most manufacturers call for triple evac. I’m a one man show and I insist my nitrogen test at 500psi holds overnight. Of course this makes service calls like the one in the video impossible.
AGREE. HOW CAN A 0.3 PSI DROP OVER 15 MINUTES BE GOOD?? 6:05 THAT'S ALMOST 3OPSI DROP OVER A DAY! WHAT PSI DROP IS ACCEPTABLE WOULD A DROP DOWN TO 499PSI OVER A DAY BE OK?
And the man wiped everything down after!!!!! Thank you. As a service tech I’ve seen a lot of funny things. When you are done with new install or repair clean it. This is when the “other guy” comes out for a leak or do a check up a lot of haste has been saved. Great video!!
A gas man here, just wondering what the code is in your area for distance between gas meter and ignition source the internal relief on that gas regulator looks to close to the AC unit could be a problem if it vents.
Thanks for the video but you may want to mention that the white insulation on your line set will be another major cause of a ductless failure. They are corroding the copper and causing pinholes to form within months of install. I have a video of it posted on a 3 zone system installed less then 1 1/2 ago.
If you read the paper that the white insulation comes with it calls for sealing the ends of it to prevent water from getting between the insulation and the copper. The water in there causes some sort of chemical reaction that is super corrosive. I have 2 side jobs i installed 2 1/2 years ago that have yet to have any issues after sealing the insulation with waterproof outdoor caulking
@@mikeytunnell4706 Funny of the 4 line sets Installed on this job none of them had any sticker on the box or instructions stating that they needed to be sealed on the ends. But as a common practice I sealed them anyway. But not with caulk as in all the facility’s I’ve maintained I have never seen this done. Will the caulk also remove the moisture that’s already in the air that’s in there. What I have read is these instructions were put out to cover there faulty product after the fact as this has been going on since 2015. Glad to hear you’re installs are good but it’s hit or miss on this issue happening as you can see in my videos. The copper will be brand new and shiny and as you move a long it will all of a sudden look greenish black and pin holes like that section was contaminated with something.
@@ride-it-outtimandtoni232 interesting i didnt know it was a cya thing with those companies. Maybe i’ve just had very good luck but those are the only side jobs i’ve done that werent maintenance so I was being overly cautious with everything. I also live in Houston where it is 90% humidity pretty much year round so there is a large amount of moisture in the air that did get trapped in there. Like i said probably dumb luck
When you first arrived you stated you had 50 psi of refrigerant pressure you then added nitrogen pressure on top of that to find your leak. After finding your leak you then blew the refrigerant and nitrogen charge to atmosphere which is illegal as you intentionally vented refrigerant. What you should’ve done first before adding nitrogen is with soap bubbles or a refrigerant leak detector and checked for leaks that way first. You may have been able to just tighten the flare and recharge. Possibly.
Innocent until proven guilty. Maybe he recovered refrig combined with nitrogen but didn't film it. At no point in the video did he dump the initial test charge, only the second test charge. Merica!
Nice equipment. I was hoping for more explanation about adding the coolant. Such as: does it matter which coolant to use? My installation manual is surprisingly unclear on many points. Can most manifold gauges handle various coolants? Which coolants are normally used in mini-splits? Are cannisters of coolant available or do they require a license? How do we know how much coolant to inject? How is it measured? And, how specifically to hook up the lines and valves to add coolant. Of course all these things come easy to professionals who work every day in this field. But these days there are a lot of us DIY'ers who would like to handle some of our own a/c maintenance. I have seen with my own eyes just how exhorbitantly expensive it can be to hire someone for this! (I mean, like well over $1000 for 1-1/2 hours of work!)
Nice video, from an old refrigeration mechanic. One thing: I didn't see you recover the partial refrigerant charge that was in the system when you arrived; it seems that you blew it off with the nitrogen. In most jurisdictions it's illegal to vent refrigerant to the atmosphere.
Latest in tools, very nice. You do NOT put nylock or any "sealer" on flares. Make a flare w/oil and double check for cracks because a lot of tubing is crap. A little oil on both sides of flare is all you need if done right
Just so you know, Nylog is not a sealer it is a highly viscous oil based product designed specifically for this purpose. It is recommend by many of the manufactures. Kinda similar to motor honey in consistency. (bad image I know but it is the only thing I can think of like this) It never dries and is safe to to get in the compressor oil. You are correct in saying you shouldn't use a sealer and to check for cracks and or bad flares. Those can be a real problem. But Nylog is not a sealer in the traditional sense. Check it out, it's cool stuff. Here is a video I watched about it back. ua-cam.com/video/PaGwWmd6Ey4/v-deo.html Sure it is from the manufacturer, but I have used the stuff and it pretty much how they show it.
For everyone that is going to say "why didn't you recover the refrigerant...??" It was only 50 PSI of 410a. When he opened it I didn't see any gas blow. So that WOULD be considered deminimus.
@@mrtheloverboy89 also - never recover refrigerant & nitrogen together after presure testing. nitrogen is not a compressible gas & will ruin a recovery machine.
@@jcarney1987 at 50 psig with 410a its below saturation temperature for ambient hense no liquid. so only 50psig vapor. you want 25-50 psig refrigerant with nitrogen for leak checking for leak detecting. so thats how it should be done. recovery should only happen if pressure is over saturation temperature for ambient hense you will be recovery some liquid refrigerant. otherwise its just a poof of vapor below saturation temp.
It does not matter how perfect the flare is and the connection and the torque. It’s still just a mechanical connection of two different materials one copper on brass they both expand and contract at slightly different rates and every time it goes through a heating and cooling cycle and the temperature fluctuates both mechanical connections slightly expand and contract in literally rub and fatigue over time. So a certain percentage of perfect flares still failed no matter what it’s a physics thing. Unless someone invents a material and method that can attach to physical parts under friction pressure that are going to go through expansion and contraction cycles that defies the laws of physics there’s always going to be flare Leaks It’s called cutting out the flares and Silver Brazing. Lol no more leaks
I used to install minisplits, and all we did was tightened it enough. Checked for leaks, and tightened down a bit more if it was loose. Im not sure how people struggle with that, torque wrenches are nice, but you can live without them, jus havin them makes it super easy
you got lucky...i always seem to find the ones in the high wall indoor head that the owner wanted no visible equipment lines so they are all buried in the wall and the electric is so fricken tight that you can't tip the unit away from the wall let alone lift it up and off that's right above the white carpeting and the furniture item that is too heavy/delicate to move. but that's just my luck!...you apparently don't have the same luck.
For a min I thought you were serious about the spit bit. Wouldn't suprise me if someone on here would say to use spit cause it's all natural and environmentally safe substance which also happens to be a condensable and to top it off, it's safe to use on all refrigerants
Indoor coils are rated for a lot less pressure than the rest of the system. Please check manufacturers maximum test pressure ...remember you are finding a leak..not causing one.
The brand I am familiar with have an unacceptable amount of indoor coil failures. Hopefully, their latest “new and improved” copper will finally fix the problem. This will be their third try to get it right. Great video on proper flaring.
Get yourself a flare diameter testing gauge. Any kind of thread sealant/inserts is unnecessary. The mating surface of the male to female flare is the only seal you need. As you tighten, tighten nut, back off the flare and reseat with refrigerant oil. Proper flare making is an art and is too often rushed.
After 50 yrs in aircraft maintenance, torque measurements have been the milk on my cereal for a long time. The proper placement of a Crowfoot on the wrench should be 90 degrees to the torque wrench. As you used yours on the flare nut, the actual torque on the nut would be higher than the value set in the wrench due to the slightly longer arm. It's only about an additional inch, and since you set it to the low side, you probably did not exceed the max allowed. There is a formula for getting the correct torque value when using an extended arm, in case you need it. It's in all the basic airman's maintenance manuals, but I don't remember it.
Those wrenches do not use "crowfoots" in the traditional sense. They come with those adapters and are calibrated for them. No need to compensate for them.
I would love to see videos my fried from you on how to learn how to service these systems from start to finish. I would love to learn more about the trade. This was a great video. Ty for sharing.
Nice video thanks can’t wait to start doing Hvac as well i replace Brocken glass and installs new windows and took some Hvac classes but I am learning more watching videos than “school”
If have the proper flare tool made for R410A flares and use nylog and torque properly, then you are good to go. Like Zac said, you need to pressure check with pressure. We always pressure check with nitrogen to 500 psi, per manufacture specs.
Always remove the flares on the inside unit and braze it directly. For the outside unit use a braze adapter for mini splits. U will never have leakes again
Yeah ok.. but my calculations are warning of the now hugely increased chances... of having a customers house catch fire & the heat wasn't the issue they requested to get fixed. Now they will have to live in your pad. Goodbye shitting with the door open. Talking about purge rags & using the dishwasher to clean split system filters like a dish dishlex mad scientist ripped on the huffing Freon & dreaming of all the secret spots on jobs you definitely sneaky lemonade spilled on. And got away the perfect eee ok beter double shake in high stakes no cakes underhouse
Justed watched this - "Install your own AIR CONDITIONING in 4 HOURS! DIY Mini Split MR COOL". Now I'm watching this. This one seems more like what I know is involved in installing a unit like this. Nevermind the $20-$30K worth of tools and equipment needed to be in this business. Great video. Thanks.
Ductless systems can be very much DIY, though they're geared towards the high common sense/advanced DIYer. However, once you're done, you should still call an HVAC company to come out and check for leaks/contaminants in the lines. That includes pre-charged lines like the ones from MrCool.
Was there any reason you did not check the torque on the other flare. My thinking is that , even though it did not indicate a leak, if one is loose or installed improperly isn't it possible that the other one might have a problem also...
Did you recover the 50 psi of refrigerant (at 1:08) before pressurizing with nitrogen? If not, I'm guessing you may have vented refrigerant/nitrogen mixture to the atmosphere...
I find using the leak detectors work great for indoor coils. I’ve found more leaks faster that way, but I confirm with with bubbles. Feels good to see two methods confirming.
I been an RN for 12 years and after seen your videos believe me when I say that i’m thinking very seriously on become and HVAC tech.
Go for it dude 👍
Love how organized you are and put everything away immediately after using. Saves a LOT of time trying to find "misplaced" equipment and tools.
I also really admire this as this is my biggest downfall. Working on it everyday.
Ahh mini ductless..1 hose
If I spent that much time fussing around with my tools, I'd never get any work done. And I can't imagine keeping my tools at a storage unit. That would be another huge barrier to getting things done. I have one big toolbox. Some people call it a pick up truck. I could be sitting in my house and think to myself; "I need a pair of pliers right now", and have them in my hand 30 seconds later.
Because he rarely uses them , there's no way he uses those tools on a daily basis like techs who unload and load their tools on several different job's per day. And I'm sure Fieldpiece gives him a kick back in some form or another. Obviously they wouldn't want to show off dirty tools eh.
This guy is neat and methodical. Able to explain the process and reasoning while he does the work.
This man will provide well for his family and realize fulfillment in his life.
Thank you for making this video.
You know what? It take one to know one. It's a top-quality production.
Mini-splits with their flares were designed to sell refrigerant, I feel. I had a fitting that leaked for years, despite re-flaring twice and torqueing perfectly to spec. Out of desperation, I finally just hoses it down with bubble fluid, backed the nut off and then re-cranked, going way past the specified torque and watching the bubbles. After a pretty good amount of torque, the bubbles tapered off and stopped and it hasn't leaked since (at least 4 years now).
My boss at my first company had no idea what to do with these systems. Torquing to spec with new wrench we had countless leaks, key is like you said, backing off and then retorquing, torquing all at once causes tortional friction and backing off half turn cures this issue. Still haven't decided whether like design but open minded. Weird as fuck not in directions first place.
A lot of the copper that’s on shelves now is like paper. It doesn’t glide as nice on the face of the flare like it used to. Nylog helps but still every tenth flare just won’t seal. It’s absolutely that the copper is too brittle and flimsy
Oldtimers like me don't use flare wrenches. We use good old 10-point open flare wrenches, and learn by feel how tight to pull up the flare nut. That's where experience comes in. I never had one of my flare connections leak, not then or over time.
10 lb-ft seems too low, maybe with lube its enough. I would almost think that a better torque spec would involve a stage 1 torque to 50% of the desired lb-ft, then stage 2 with a degree gauge and torque another number of degrees of rotation. I DIY installed a mini-split 3 years ago and it still runs great, but I know I went well over the torque spec and tightened it by feel.
My boss never trusted the torque specs. He said they say that you're not supposed to overtighten, but the only way he's ever gotten them to stay was to tighten the shit out of them.
I'm my experience they will often hold charge, at torque, but can loosen over time.
Every leak I have seen on one of these systems has been at the flare, either inside or outside. On one job, I followed a well known local contractor who used "Leak Lok" on the flares. Good flares, and oil only, for me.
this is the way.... do not use leak lock or teflon the oil creates a seal
Im not an HVAC person at all but I love learning how to diagnose and fix things (or at least know what to tell a specialist.) I appreciate you taking the mystery out of it and your editing is really on point
Yeah. The contractor loves to be told by a youtube university student how to do their job. Keep waiting for sleepy joe to pay off your multiple degrees
@@lesgobrandon5501Couldn't have said it any better!
Great video. I'm retired now 5 years after 40 years. Fieldpiece has come along way. I still have one of their VOMs.
I am an instructor at a trade school and I like to show my students how to check and run a proper vacuum and not to take my words as gospel but to go out and see how pros in the field ard doing it and to check if what I am teaching them is proper because they have come back to me and have told me some people are putting the micron guage on the vacuum pump so I use your video for them to check it out for themselves. I like to thsnk you for sharing
glad to see a real HVACR contractor. i am retired after 45 years , what i see in NC & Florida in the AC business discuss me. God bless and good luck.
Yikes, that regulator and or meter cannot be that close to a source of ignition (A/C Unit).
Yeah there's a lot of con men and a lot of incompetence that can't diagnose problems
I've seen this great video a few times. This guy is smart, shows a lot of "workmanship integrity", and has all the essential equipment. I'd love to be able to call on someone like this if needed! In my area, sure, we have HVAC technicians, but I have no reason to believe they know what they're doing or are as well-equipped as the technician in this nice video. Much appreciated!
Experience is invaluable when doing flares. I used to use a drop of oil on the flaring cone. For 410 a drop of nylog. Experience might let you not use a torque wrench to tighten. For most use the torque wrench to tighten to specs. Also i coat both sides of the flare with nylog. The only leak i ever had was a siding contractor hit the condensor unit outside after a unit was a couple years old and it leaked. Great advice in this video
I use Nylog on R22 also, there's two different types available, red and blue depending on the refrigerant. It's good stuff, I use it as lube when flaring too.
370 lbs of pressure on the Nitrogen. I do automotive A/C at work and have for years. These Mini-splits are new to me. Great job showing Fieldpiece equipment and features. I have used shop air for years when I suspect a leak. Tried it all. Soapy water still is great for any leak detection.
Dude! You're a PRO. I owned a residential swimming pool business and this is the caliber of organization and step by step troubleshooting and repair that I always aimed for.
The man is clean, looks and sounds really confident. Tools are clean and of good quality and the man knows his tools. Everything screams pro. Nice vid bro. Big up!!
Usually, once a guy has made a poor quality flare on the outside, you need to make new flares and on the indoor unit as well. Take this advice from colleague from Bulgaria with 24yrs. experience with this type of AC units.
TRUE!
What could happen if you don't?
@@joffrecueva5662 ...you risk (more than 51%) coming back a second time, at your own expense.
true, so true, you see i hate when someone do poor job, but soo many bad jobs around, eaven with so call it professionals.
once i was on cleaning job small ac unit, soooo stinky, i was yea its dirti, so i clean it full, like fan was out, and i got second call still stinks, i go back, and its true, i was like wtf, i eaven tought about pets, owners etc...and after like 5h making a fool of myself tinking wtf, i discovered small electrical smell device near ac unit, and you know what, smell was gone
Cut those damn flare fittings off the indoor unit and braze them. The fewer the flare fittings the better.
This guy has to be the most organized tech I’ve seen,he’s got every nice tool also!😂
Rule of thumb, check all flares indoor and out, 5 more mins might just save you hours of work. Poor copper flared from my experience always has hard spots and don't never seat well.
I silver solder the evap. connection instead of flares. This way you never have to worry if your leak is in the evaporator.
only thing hate about the mini's the flared connections not great for the higher pressures with R410a, braised line sets normal splits better so many situations have went with PTAC thru wall units better than installing mini splits if lower wall unit not an issue where installed, sun rooms, workshops, get as good of pricing on small PTAC as mini split.
I blew it at community college. The refrigeration teacher befriended me but I was in the biology department. I should have switched to a trade. I never used the dumb biology degree. RIP Ray. Thanks for being a friend when I needed one. Great video and nice equipment demo.
Nice vid bro as always. One suggestion on my Sman Guages it tells you to put the temp clamp on the suction line in order to self adjust the pressure drop based off of line temp. Not sure if yours has this feature but makes me more confident in my flares! And keeps me from guessing if the small pressure drops were from my hoses leaking or line temp changing.
Won’t work on these systems with VFDs… Depending on the multiple thermistors and temperature sensors, you could have super heat of 1 or 2 degrees when running perfectly to specs…
Excellent video and good advice on what to look for. There sits a $400 bottle of gas that was $100 last year!
FJB!!!
I am enjoying watching you "living" the truck life for service. I started that way and as much as I loved it when I got in a service van I just couldn't justify anything less than a service body. Now after years retired and helping my son get his start with NO new vehicles available in Ca. I find myself back in the truck life looking for that storage unit/garage to call the shop. I will be interested in seeing how you build out that truck, I am a big fan of the deck drawer and matching top system myself if it's just a single trade. If you do go to any of the deck systems buy a rebuild kit for the pullout rollers/latches/locks etc, 2-3 years down the road you will thank yourself when you don't have a 500# plus drawer slamming around until you get replacement parts.
Know nothing about HVAC, but was captivated by your pump.
Loved the quick oil change feature, though mine take only a minute and, since mine are used for chambers, I filter my oil and use it again.
One of my pumps has a filter and I get nothing in the air from it, as it builds vacuum. The other mists until I build a significant vacuum. On a whim, I used an old CPAP hose to move the mist away. It worked and, if I had to move it a long ways, I could push air in from a Y to assist moving the mist out of the shop. All this is to say, I loved that exhaust feature on your pump.
That nylock goes on just the back side of the flare like you did but not on the threads, it’s a dry torque spec. A triple evacuation method is good practice to do on these types of systems as well when you open that line set to the outside air, it is a few extra mins but it’s what the install manual calls for. Keep up the good work
Triple evac is an outdated practice, back when we didn't have micron guages that had 1 micron resolution.
@@sprockkets no it isn't. During vacuum ice will form possibly plugging the txv or other restriction points.. what about the micron Guage changes that ?
@@Jdrichardson35christ You need to do research on this topic at the hvac school channel hosted by Brian or with Jim Bergmann. The nitrogen you put in does little to dry out the lines. It was done because it recalibrates micron gauges from the past.
Think: if you get a 50 micron reading while doing a vacuum, you have no moisture in the first place. I reach that in less than 5 minutes on a new mini split system, but let it go for 30 min because i can't read the far end.
It’s directly from the installation manual, if that’s what the manufacturer says to do, then that’s what they want you to do. If it was outdated it wouldn’t still be in the installation manual of 2022 model’s
@@Nwflyingsolow I don't care if it is in the instruction manual of installing a Mitsubishi ductless unit. I'm not a tech stuck in the 90s with outdated tools.
You are not going to get down to 50 microns with moisture in the lineset, period. You can waste time and nitrogen; I'm not.
In aerospace, when a stainless steel flare fitting leaked, we used a "soft seal" which is a bevelled washer of softer material like copper or aluminum. Might work as well on a copper flare. In a pressure test with N2, the gas initially heats up from the compression so you must wait ~20 min for the temperature to equilibrate, then look for decay from a leak.
I get mini split calls (distributor gives customers my name) that would shock you how they were "professionally" installed. I think a lot of guys assume, "its only a mini split" and they ignore or don't know anything about the unique challenges they pose. #1 you have to have a torque wrench. Most guys dont. #2 you have to have a flare tool- most guys dont. #3 you have to use nylog, most guys dont. AND what I do- if one leaked- I use the flare-tite washers and I have never had a callback for a leak. You probably haven't either. great video--great instruction. One more thing I do- I cut the lineset and braze it. Most guys just leave a huge coil stashed behind which creates oil traps (minor issue on mini splits) but looks really ugly.
I agree. And from what I've read, if you DO leave the lineset long, you should leave the coiled extra horizontal, not vertical, to avoid said oil traps.
Excellent UA-camr. I like the way you fast forward, elapse time, save the fewer''s time, but you get the main issues across. Good fortune!
On Tuesday I have a crane and mechanics -- two really good guys -- coming to rescue a rooftop unit. (To help the people who are now working in a very hot office.) The outdoor coil failed -- leaks where the guys cannot braze it. This is a difficult situation because a new rooftop unit takes 52 weeks to get so getting a whole new rooftop unit is not possible. But we have a plan! The guys are gonna install a brand-new condenser unit (compressor and outdoor fan). They are gonna connect this new condenser unit to the existing indoor coil. Of course they will connect the power circuit and the control circuit. Besides that they will be using a new refrigerant because the old unit ran on R-22. Pretty sure this is all going to work. I have fixed a lot of stuff in my life -- it is not easy -- so I respect these guys that can figger stuff out and make it work!
You make it look so easy. Makes me wonder why these service calls are so expensive.
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
Thank you very much for this video. New HVAC repair technician coming to diagnose leak that previous two techs failed to fix! Will help with insuring a through job is done.
If we threw our hoses on the ground (in the grass) our teacher made us wear them around our neck for the rest of the day 🤣 Otherwise, great job!! I hate mini splits for this reason, never trust a mechanical connection, a light tap with a lawnmower will cause a leak. EDIT - Look at the siding behind that unit, it's cracked! That means a weedwhacker has been behind it...
Bollards and fencing keeps the lawn maintenance guys away
I love how careful he is... to show his entire viewing audience his storage unit combination. GREAT WORK... said thieves.
Thought the same thing when I saw that!
Man….you made it clear and concise. Real easy to follow. I don’t know if I can afford your tool setup but definitely can follow your directions. Definitely got a sub from me
My goodness, this video covers EXACTLY what is wrong with my (newly installed) mini-split. Love how you walked through it!
Damm Bro congratulations on your channel's growth. I can definitely see why. You made this look so easy and your explanations are on point. keep it up. Really enjoy your content.
Great Videos. Your organization is impressive.
We loved our Mitsubishi's so much that when we built out our cabin we put in Mini-splits and at the advice of the Plumber we went with Fujutsu for their ability to run in colder temps. That house has 6 heads, 2 zones and I'm ready to rage on these units They've been nothing but trouble. I suspect bad copper is the issue but I have a new plumber trying to salvage these units as they're constantly underperforming and in need of a recharge. I hope for the plumber's sake and the sake of my wallet that the troubleshooting is this easy. Ripping them out and starting over would SUCK!!!
One piece of advice for those considering Mini-splits, those indoor units need a fair amount of TLC to remain effective and efficient. I had one of my Mitsu units start to struggle and it required a thorough indoor unit cleaning. It's not a hard thing to do but you'll make a mess and take up an hour of your day. The drain line was clogged which was the root of the issue but the unit being filthy didn't help. I was shocked that my local company quoted 3 hours per head at $150 an hour. I was able to clean mine with a youtube video like this and about $25 worth of cleaner and plastic sheets to minimize the mess.
When installing these units we always cut the flare connections for the wall unit, and braze them to the refrigerant lines. that way you can always eliminate the possibility of them leaking as well. I bet you if it was leaking at the condensor flares, it's also leaking at the wall unit flares.
if there was another leak, he would not be able to pull the unit down below 500 microns, he could triple evacuate as well and that proves there is not another leak. I do agree with you, while your there you might as well check the other connections.
@@Omaha__ not true at all
@@SpeedDemonssk8er most definitely true. If there was a leak it would not hold a vaccum under 1000microns during a decay test
I was thinking the same way. Eliminate the possible leaks in the future.....
@@Omaha__ I just did 4 houses and pulled each house down to 150 microns, short linesets, and 3 of them held with less than a rise of over 200 during a 10min decay. My fourth house held 250psi nitrogen pressure, but when I pulled vacuum, I could get it down to 243 Microns, but a rise just over 1000 in 10 min decay. I always attach my micron gauge at the end of the system. Turns out my leak was at the beginning. This is why leak decays are always required.
Love the channel.
It’s funny in the UK we have to take F-Gas course to be able to handle refrigerant. On the practical if you let any refrigerant out from anywhere you fail the exam.
Nah fam, as soon as you remove the old flare I would recommend redoing the flare. I know it might look good but that flare was already pressed down when they tried to torque it. That’s just my way of doing it. I don’t trust others flaring other than my own.
Always new flares! Takes 6 minutes
Yup always new flares. Can't trust the old flare!
@@hugba Takes 30 seconds with the Navac flairing tool. Best investment I ever made.
I would say this is a judgement call of the person actually looking at the problem. I've reused flares with no issue. Again to each his own
I was shown in school the factory vs. redo flare (eccentric only) and factory LEAKER!
I have the same evac pump and hose. Love it! It sure does make it faster. Also, I’m glad you explained how you set up to the the port on the mini-split. I’ve noticed the same thing. There’s not much you can do, unless the port is designed better.
I ran into the issue of not being able to get the core removal tool yesterday. I took the anchors off the foot tabs and slid the heat pump over the edge so I could get it on. So much faster with the valve core removed, but with such a small and short lineset probably didn't make much of a difference.
Thoughtful installers could position the valves beyond the edge of the support base, or he could have done the mod here. Short line set so evacuation probably didn’t take too long.
Boy, do I wish you were closer to Greensboro, NC! Your professionalism and attention to detail is so impressive! I have a 40 year old Trane 1200 I will be replacing in the spring. My electrician/HVAC guy is recommending changing to a heat pump as it is only a little bit more money. Air handler is in a very large and accessible attic. All of the air supply line are very robust and actually over engineered, so no need to change. Would love to hear your suggestions on type / brand of heat pump, rough idea of possible costs, things I should look out for. Your help would be appreciated , love the channel!
Just a quick heads up when pressure testing. Use caution when you’re going much above the “low side test pressure”. When pressure testing you will usually want to use no more than a systems low side rated pressure.
I was thinking about that when I was watching the video. Any suggestions about safe level when it is unknown, because I think it is unknown on the machines I will work on after exam.
My previous thought was do not go over HP-switch rating with equalized pressures. I kind of wanna blow LP-switches on purpose in shop just to know. (Talking about line set braced on sensors, not adjustable).
That wouldn't be code in BC. Here there are set amounts of pressure to test for the high and low. Since they'd be wanting to equalize, I was taught to hit both sides with the high side amount. Roughly 300 PSI for r22 and 450 for r410a
Most of my bosses like to use rules of thumb. Mine are typically 400 for 410a, 200 for most low/medium temp refrigeration applications. Never go over the high switch rating. You’re looking for leaks, not trying to create them.
what did he do wrong? Nothing. I use the western regulator on mini splits ---it only puts in about 200 psi on "test" mode but he did it right.
@@BernWag most mini split manuals tell you to test at 400+
My mini-split was installed on the same style pad as the one in your video - in my Michigan winter, ice built up underneath, and I had to raise it two feet above the ground, and regularly remove the ice build-up.
When using the pressure test on the manifold, you are supposed to also hook up your temperature probe to measure temperature of the line to account for Pressure-Temperature relation
On a mini split? Where are the specs for pressure?
@Keith Wiebe not sure what exactly you're asking, but I'm just simply stating what the instruction manual for those gauges say about the tightness test function on the manifold.
@@MurderTeam1995 Maybe I misunderstood your answer. Perhaps you were referring to checking the pressure drop with temp in checking for leaks with nitrogen. I at first thought you were talking about how to fill up system according to temperature. You're not suppose to do that but I did on mine.
You're the only HVAC guy (and I've seen plenty) to use a torque wrench on the connectors.
I only had 1 problem with flares and it was a factory done flare. The 3/8" flare was made ultra thin and worked for 1 week then it blew out. I check all flares now because it is very embarrassing having a leak .
Good job on using the Nylog on just the threads of the flares. Nylog on flares at the unit is common practice these days due to vibration at the unit connections.
Zac out here livin his best life. Nice work man. 🤙🏻
I don't know much about HVAC systems but looking at the work you put in filming, editing and music it shows attention to details.
It's easy as hell. If you want to make serious money...go learn it and you too can rip those fukrs heads off and make bank. Like taking candy from a baby
Def. not a pro. I know a little bit about HVAC, but I'm def. a tool lover and will say that set of tools looks slick. Packs nice, minimalistic, and shows you good data. I were to use stuff like this on a daily I'd definably want a system like you have.
This has been the exact issue with mine after the same tech couldn't get his reamer tool to make a good enough flair. Finally was able to do so after two visits (no charge).
The most common issue with the "mini splits" (as you fellow Americans are calling them) is the capacitor, a leak in the system is just a bad job, or poor quality fittings.
One free tip, stop installing them on the ground, just hang them on the wall (if possible) just like the rest of the world, it's easier to get moisture on the internal pcb or to be clogged, also shorter tubes increase efficiency. I have been running a 24k BTU Mitsubishi Heavy Industries AC for 15 years without any major issue, after 10 years it only needed a capacitor replacement
Us Yanks will learn LOL
I'm not sure what you mean by capacitor. Most modern units have VFDs that run the compressor. There is a capacitor, or bank of capacitors on the control board. Is that what you mean? There is no start or run cap like the older units.
I always use nylog and torque the fittings. Static pressure test with nitrogen at 500 psi for an hour as well. Nice video!
Nice video, between the $660 fieldpiece VP87, the $530 SM380V, $200 TRQ1080 torque wrench kit, $550 trublu evacuation hose/adapter kit, $220 MG44 vacuum gauge, and a $330 SRS3 Wireless Scale with Remote. That's like $2,500 in test equipment... I'm sure the N2 & R410A cans aren't cheap either. O_O;
But having all of that stuff and knowing how to use it quickly like that, he's making that money back in days or weeks and it'll last a long time I'ms ure with how he treats his stuff.
@@jberkhimer exactly!
Raiden my thoughts exactly.
I mean, don’t get me wrong, good tools and equipment sure are nicer for the tech worker and are usually the sign of a good job well done. But not always.
In my town, the customers can’t afford to pay for what that equipment is worth, just means it’ll take me longer to build up to that level is all.
This is why homeowners really shouldn't be doing refrigeration work themselves. The pre-flared ends make it POSSIBLE to do it yourself, but there are just too many service tools required to do the job properly, and if something goes wrong, a homeowner would never be able to move past that point, if they're even aware of it. Then they end up calling a service guy anyway, and don't we just LOVE coming in behind someone that's screwed something up...
You got the skills and the tools. Great service technician no doubt.
One interesting thought....I would like to see an episode where you do this kind of work with no high tech instruments. Years ago we had no
fancy gauges, hoses, vacuum pumps, etc. In spite of a lack of new type tools we were still able to achieve a high success rate in install where
many systems remained viable for 20 to 30 years.
There has always been gauges and temp probes for a very long time, before the time of refrigeration. They just weren't on fancy, but still same concept. Micron gauges however were analog and were far less accurate, that I will contest.
Anybody who's been eyeballing refrigerant for 30 years can blame their high success rate on delusions of adequacy.
Still have my analog dial gauges like to use
with newer refrigerants, higher pressures, saturation levels more specific, sometimes takes more modern tech, but Still do most work with the old style gauges just fine.
The EPA made the job a little harder freon rules. Still pretty easy though. 25k if they catch you letting too much freon into the atmosphere. At least that was the case 30yrs. ago when I was doing HVAC.
All these videos do is make me feel confident in what I already know.
One note: anytime you're using a torque wrench you can't re position the wrench when you're close to the torque spec. If you're trying to hit 10 ft/lbs but stop at 9 ft/lbs and reposition the wrench, the wrench will hit 10 ft/lbs and click without tightening the nut at all because it takes more torque to get it started tightening again, so you will still be at 9. That also means multiple clicks on a torque wrench does not work for checking if something is properly torqued. It takes like 130-140% of the torque load to get the nut moving again.
That is not blanket true - many multi stage tightening procedures have less than a 130% jump to final torque. Also he was using a thread/joint lubricant which makes it less sensitive. Will agree that one smooth motion to final torque is best.
@@paintballthieupwns 130-140% isn't really the important part, if you stop early to reposition and the wrench clicks without moving the nut you're at the wrong torque. Thread lubricant is a whole other can of worms since it's impossible to get the correct torque without the lubricant being included in the spec. I assumed it was a sealant and/or anti-seize not lubricant.
No sir, there are no absolutes in reality when it comes to this. It depends on a number of factors - composition of the nut/bolt, thread sealer being used, any debris or rust present, any lubrication used, and so on. I get where you came up with that, but to say "(x) amount of force is needed to do (y)" is wildly variable.
Once you use lube your torque change’s.
@@karlchilders5420 Like I already stated, the % is not even the important part. It doesn't matter if it takes 110% or 190%, with a click wrench you don't even know what torque you're at when you stop anyways. The point is, if you stop and start again and the bolt doesn't move before the click you're at the wrong torque. Nut composition, sealants and lubricants are all part of developing the torque spec. Using dirty/rusty bolts again, is a different conversation.
Dude, good meter placement! I laughed when I seen how you covered that up.
I’ve seen the bigger companies throw several techs at an install and they are rolling out in just a few hours and I always wonder how the connections will hold up to several heat/cool cycles when clearly the pressure and vacuum tests were brief. Most manufacturers call for triple evac. I’m a one man show and I insist my nitrogen test at 500psi holds overnight. Of course this makes service calls like the one in the video impossible.
AGREE. HOW CAN A 0.3 PSI DROP OVER 15 MINUTES BE GOOD?? 6:05 THAT'S ALMOST 3OPSI DROP OVER A DAY! WHAT PSI DROP IS ACCEPTABLE WOULD A DROP DOWN TO 499PSI OVER A DAY BE OK?
And the man wiped everything down after!!!!! Thank you. As a service tech I’ve seen a lot of funny things. When you are done with new install or repair clean it. This is when the “other guy” comes out for a leak or do a check up a lot of haste has been saved. Great video!!
A gas man here, just wondering what the code is in your area for distance between gas meter and ignition source the internal relief on that gas regulator looks to close to the AC unit could be a problem if it vents.
Propane guy here. Was wondering the same thing. Normally it’s 10 feet from any source of ignition where I’m from.
Well done, wish all service people were this thorough and professional.
Thanks for the video but you may want to mention that the white insulation on your line set will be another major cause of a ductless failure. They are corroding the copper and causing pinholes to form within months of install. I have a video of it posted on a 3 zone system installed less then 1 1/2 ago.
If you read the paper that the white insulation comes with it calls for sealing the ends of it to prevent water from getting between the insulation and the copper. The water in there causes some sort of chemical reaction that is super corrosive. I have 2 side jobs i installed 2 1/2 years ago that have yet to have any issues after sealing the insulation with waterproof outdoor caulking
@@mikeytunnell4706 Funny of the 4 line sets Installed on this job none of them had any sticker on the box or instructions stating that they needed to be sealed on the ends. But as a common practice I sealed them anyway. But not with caulk as in all the facility’s I’ve maintained I have never seen this done. Will the caulk also remove the moisture that’s already in the air that’s in there. What I have read is these instructions were put out to cover there faulty product after the fact as this has been going on since 2015. Glad to hear you’re installs are good but it’s hit or miss on this issue happening as you can see in my videos. The copper will be brand new and shiny and as you move a long it will all of a sudden look greenish black and pin holes like that section was contaminated with something.
@@ride-it-outtimandtoni232 interesting i didnt know it was a cya thing with those companies. Maybe i’ve just had very good luck but those are the only side jobs i’ve done that werent maintenance so I was being overly cautious with everything. I also live in Houston where it is 90% humidity pretty much year round so there is a large amount of moisture in the air that did get trapped in there. Like i said probably dumb luck
I don’t use those line sets for that reason! Ridiculous and shouldn’t be sold!
Would using caulk with acetic acid in it (the vinegar smell!) be a problem--most acids react with Cu?
Your an excellent AC Tech who takes pride in their job! Keep up the good work.
When you first arrived you stated you had 50 psi of refrigerant pressure you then added nitrogen pressure on top of that to find your leak. After finding your leak you then blew the refrigerant and nitrogen charge to atmosphere which is illegal as you intentionally vented refrigerant. What you should’ve done first before adding nitrogen is with soap bubbles or a refrigerant leak detector and checked for leaks that way first. You may have been able to just tighten the flare and recharge. Possibly.
Depends on what refrigerant it is not all refrigerants are illegal to let out into the atmosphere.
50 psi would definitely be considered “trace” levels of R410 a… which if you add nitrogen for leak detection, is federally compliant to vent.
Innocent until proven guilty. Maybe he recovered refrig combined with nitrogen but didn't film it. At no point in the video did he dump the initial test charge, only the second test charge. Merica!
Nice equipment. I was hoping for more explanation about adding the coolant. Such as: does it matter which coolant to use? My installation manual is surprisingly unclear on many points. Can most manifold gauges handle various coolants? Which coolants are normally used in mini-splits? Are cannisters of coolant available or do they require a license? How do we know how much coolant to inject? How is it measured? And, how specifically to hook up the lines and valves to add coolant. Of course all these things come easy to professionals who work every day in this field. But these days there are a lot of us DIY'ers who would like to handle some of our own a/c maintenance. I have seen with my own eyes just how exhorbitantly expensive it can be to hire someone for this! (I mean, like well over $1000 for 1-1/2 hours of work!)
Excellent video. No surgical gloves, microscopes, protective eyeware, nose plugs or respirator needed....unlike others making similar videos on UA-cam
Nice video, from an old refrigeration mechanic.
One thing: I didn't see you recover the partial refrigerant charge that was in the system when you arrived; it seems that you blew it off with the nitrogen. In most jurisdictions it's illegal to vent refrigerant to the atmosphere.
Very well explained and everything was made very clear.
Also VERY well organized with your tools sir. KUDOS!
Thanks.
Latest in tools, very nice. You do NOT put nylock or any "sealer" on flares. Make a flare w/oil and double check for cracks because a lot of tubing is crap. A little oil on both sides of flare is all you need if done right
Just so you know, Nylog is not a sealer it is a highly viscous oil based product designed specifically for this purpose. It is recommend by many of the manufactures. Kinda similar to motor honey in consistency. (bad image I know but it is the only thing I can think of like this) It never dries and is safe to to get in the compressor oil. You are correct in saying you shouldn't use a sealer and to check for cracks and or bad flares. Those can be a real problem. But Nylog is not a sealer in the traditional sense. Check it out, it's cool stuff. Here is a video I watched about it back. ua-cam.com/video/PaGwWmd6Ey4/v-deo.html Sure it is from the manufacturer, but I have used the stuff and it pretty much how they show it.
@@mikeman400 have been retired awhile, had not heard of this product, only leak lock (blue thread sealer) thanks for update!
Nice job! You must have the right tools for the job. I like that vacuum pump.
For everyone that is going to say "why didn't you recover the refrigerant...??" It was only 50 PSI of 410a. When he opened it I didn't see any gas blow. So that WOULD be considered deminimus.
Plus mixed with nitrogen it’s not pure 410 anymore lol
Global warming is a scam anyway
He honestly should have recovered it before charging with nitrogen. EPA a pain in the ass, but truth be told, 99% hvac techs do it like this anyways.
@@mrtheloverboy89 also - never recover refrigerant & nitrogen together after presure testing. nitrogen is not a compressible gas & will ruin a recovery machine.
@@jcarney1987 at 50 psig with 410a its below saturation temperature for ambient hense no liquid. so only 50psig vapor. you want 25-50 psig refrigerant with nitrogen for leak checking for leak detecting. so thats how it should be done. recovery should only happen if pressure is over saturation temperature for ambient hense you will be recovery some liquid refrigerant. otherwise its just a poof of vapor below saturation temp.
The video editing was amazing in this video!!! I hope you can continue this style of video!!!
The problem with flares is that people are so afraid of leaks that they tend to over tight the flares
gotta follow that manufacturer recommendations and grab a flare torque wrench and stay within the guidelines
@@bwcklein i find it useless if you have no leaks at over 300 psi for 15 mins
It does not matter how perfect the flare is and the connection and the torque.
It’s still just a mechanical connection of two different materials one copper on brass they both expand and contract at slightly different rates and every time it goes through a heating and cooling cycle and the temperature fluctuates both mechanical connections slightly expand and contract in literally rub and fatigue over time. So a certain percentage of perfect flares still failed no matter what it’s a physics thing. Unless someone invents a material and method that can attach to physical parts under friction pressure that are going to go through expansion and contraction cycles that defies the laws of physics there’s always going to be flare Leaks
It’s called cutting out the flares and Silver Brazing. Lol no more leaks
You mean the torque system of a 6ft cheater pipe on a adjustable is not the prefered method?
I used to install minisplits, and all we did was tightened it enough. Checked for leaks, and tightened down a bit more if it was loose. Im not sure how people struggle with that, torque wrenches are nice, but you can live without them, jus havin them makes it super easy
Glad to see this. I have been looking at them but for heat and that’s showing that like my current system nobody wants to touch them
you got lucky...i always seem to find the ones in the high wall indoor head that the owner wanted no visible equipment lines so they are all buried in the wall and the electric is so fricken tight that you can't tip the unit away from the wall let alone lift it up and off that's right above the white carpeting and the furniture item that is too heavy/delicate to move. but that's just my luck!...you apparently don't have the same luck.
Super organized and a very straight forward presentation. Thank you.
How long have you operated out of storage unit? How is it?
It's worth the investment.
Best find one that has security cameras and 24hr access.
Great Video! Just one note, when torquing, when the wrench breaks, do not do it again as this changes the torque to a higher value.
I always spit on the flare and can lock it up nice with two adjustable wrenches.. it’s nice to see how it supposed to be done
🤣
KY would be even better!
Lmao
All about spittin and feelin
For a min I thought you were serious about the spit bit. Wouldn't suprise me if someone on here would say to use spit cause it's all natural and environmentally safe substance which also happens to be a condensable and to top it off, it's safe to use on all refrigerants
Great job
Why didn't you put nylog directly on the flare?
Indoor coils are rated for a lot less pressure than the rest of the system. Please check manufacturers maximum test pressure ...remember you are finding a leak..not causing one.
Some mini split manufacturers list for 600psi test pressure I think
@@shadowolfgaming6578 correct although I think it is 500PSI, not 600.
Most mini splits are heat pumps, both coils are rated for high pressure.
The brand I am familiar with have an unacceptable amount of indoor coil failures. Hopefully, their latest “new and improved” copper will finally fix the problem. This will be their third try to get it right. Great video on proper flaring.
Mr cool?
Yes, why not mention the brand?
Get yourself a flare diameter testing gauge. Any kind of thread sealant/inserts is unnecessary. The mating surface of the male to female flare is the only seal you need. As you tighten, tighten nut, back off the flare and reseat with refrigerant oil. Proper flare making is an art and is too often rushed.
That’s some real quality work you are details oriented man i like this so much
After 50 yrs in aircraft maintenance, torque measurements have been the milk on my cereal for a long time. The proper placement of a Crowfoot on the wrench should be 90 degrees to the torque wrench. As you used yours on the flare nut, the actual torque on the nut would be higher than the value set in the wrench due to the slightly longer arm. It's only about an additional inch, and since you set it to the low side, you probably did not exceed the max allowed. There is a formula for getting the correct torque value when using an extended arm, in case you need it. It's in all the basic airman's maintenance manuals, but I don't remember it.
Those wrenches do not use "crowfoots" in the traditional sense. They come with those adapters and are calibrated for them. No need to compensate for them.
Not all industry specific tools work the same.
Excellent video content and equipment placement for advertising. Well Done!
Lately I’ve been finding leaks on mini splits from the line sets more then failed flars. Wonder if thats just me
I would love to see videos my fried from you on how to learn how to service these systems from start to finish. I would love to learn more about the trade. This was a great video. Ty for sharing.
A 3/4” hose that reduces down to 1/4" is basically a 1/4" hose.
Why don't you use the micron gauge on the SMAN?
Yep, from a 1/2” port on the vac pump… 🤣
Nice video thanks can’t wait to start doing Hvac as well i replace Brocken glass and installs new windows and took some Hvac classes but I am learning more watching videos than “school”
Its a leak probably. Main reason for us, sad part is you can torque it to spec and it still leaks
Brother you anit never lie the torque wrench set is cool but not effective
Then your flare is malformed.
If have the proper flare tool made for R410A flares and use nylog and torque properly, then you are good to go. Like Zac said, you need to pressure check with pressure. We always pressure check with nitrogen to 500 psi, per manufacture specs.
If it still leaks you are doing something wrong
Good job man you get straight to the point No B.S around
Always remove the flares on the inside unit and braze it directly. For the outside unit use a braze adapter for mini splits. U will never have leakes again
Company doesnt honor garantie if u cut the flate down … dont do that even if its the right thing to do we know
Yeah ok..
but my calculations are warning of the now hugely increased chances... of having a customers house catch fire & the heat wasn't the issue they requested to get fixed. Now they will have to live in your pad. Goodbye shitting with the door open. Talking about purge rags & using the dishwasher to clean split system filters like a dish dishlex mad scientist ripped on the huffing Freon & dreaming of all the secret spots on jobs you definitely sneaky lemonade spilled on. And got away the perfect eee ok beter double shake in high stakes no cakes underhouse
Justed watched this - "Install your own AIR CONDITIONING in 4 HOURS! DIY Mini Split MR COOL". Now I'm watching this. This one seems more like what I know is involved in installing a unit like this. Nevermind the $20-$30K worth of tools and equipment needed to be in this business. Great video. Thanks.
Ductless systems can be very much DIY, though they're geared towards the high common sense/advanced DIYer. However, once you're done, you should still call an HVAC company to come out and check for leaks/contaminants in the lines. That includes pre-charged lines like the ones from MrCool.
Was there any reason you did not check the torque on the other flare. My thinking is that , even though it did not indicate a leak, if one is loose or installed improperly isn't it possible that the other one might have a problem also...
Did you recover the 50 psi of refrigerant (at 1:08) before pressurizing with nitrogen? If not, I'm guessing you may have vented refrigerant/nitrogen mixture to the atmosphere...
I am 100 percent a soap bubble man I do not use leak detectors or ultra sonic sensors. Just plain old bubbles
I find using the leak detectors work great for indoor coils. I’ve found more leaks faster that way, but I confirm with with bubbles. Feels good to see two methods confirming.
My H10 will pick up leaks that don’t show with bubbles.