Mini Split Book on Our Website- www.acservicetech.com/mini-split-book Mini Split Book on Amazon- amzn.to/3ytHJSs Mini Split Book on TruTech Tools- www.trutechtools.com/BooksGuides Mini Split E-Book on Google- play.google.com/store/books/details?id=HN-iEAAAQBAJ Mini Split E-Book on Apple- books.apple.com/us/book/id6445178399
I have seen many videos on how to do this procedure but none of them even come close to the clarity and precision that A/c service tech brings to the table. Thank you sir for helping the general save money and the atmosphere at the same time.
I'm a DIYer homeowner, not a tech. But for some reason I find heat pump technology fascinating even though at my age as an SW engineer, becoming a professional HVAC technician is not in the cards. After my 2nd multi-zone mini-split install where your videos provided most of what I needed to know, I finally bought your eBook. Your videos and free online docs helped me so much that I decided to get your eBook (to learn about checking and recharging a unit), and to understand things better. Also, you've earned the respect and appreciation to get some remuneration for your service, IMO. After getting about 10 pages in where you introduce the basics of refrigeration and the physics, I'm beyond impressed. The diagrams are excellent. The explanations, are clear, thorough, and convey the points succinctly. For anyone reading this, I'm in no way affiliated with these people, I'm just saying if you actually want to understand the core concepts and/or specifics, the book is a worthwhile investment. The eBook is pretty reasonably priced considering how good an educator the author is.
Glad to hear other diyr’s can take this up as a fairly technical “hobby”. Not a sw engineer but web developer. Could you work on a traditional outdoor condenser unit, or the indoor evarporator?
Its good for doing stuff on your home I guess, but not to work as a tech, then you have to deal with using ladders, aggressive dogs, lady's who are never satisficed with the work, customers that hit on you (both women and men), it can create all sorts of drama, is it worth it to spends hundreds of dollars for work you do perhaps twice a year? I'm not sure it is a cost saver, also you have to separate space to keep these tools in working order
I also do lot of DIY mostly automotive AC. In the last 3 years HVAC contractors have tripled their pricing, and many are just sales people trying to sell you new unit or a service plan. Now I do my own annual maintenance on my 4 ton packaged heat pump on my roof. I even ran a pex line off my evap cooler to connect a hose so I could wash the condenser every 6 months or after dust storms. I stock parts for my unit and my mothers AC split system caps, condenser fan motors, contactor. Local HVAC suppliers here refuse to sell to the public just buy online. The $1000 in stocking my parts, and HVAC tools is a tiny amount what one service call now costs from a local HVAC tech. My mother had a compressor run cap replaced HVAC tech charged her $680 that was during the week day not even at night or weekend. If they come after hours cap cost $1000 to replace it. New packaged unit install cost $12-15k now for a single stage goodman. Not even talking about duct work just $400 crane lift and use the same stand and elbow.
I can't say enough about how I appreciate these. I have been doing HVAC/R for eight years now and I always go back and read, watch, learn, over and over again. Never being satisfied in myself, but making sure I do things always to the best I can. Plus my memory really sucks. Thank you!
I just used this exact method with the exact two Appion valve core removal tools in order to install a 9000btu mini split. Even with the cheap harbor freight vacuum pump it pulled a great vacuum and held steady; I observed no leaks. As a homeowner I am excited to be able to do some of my own HVAC work. Thanks for these training videos. They are fascinating!
I would be more than happy to pay a technician more to charge my A/C if I knew he/she was as thorough as you. I've had a few guys come to our house that just bang on the unit and connect hoses and do not go to this detail (I guess that is why they've been here a few times). If nothing else, your video should be a good lesson to existing HVAC Techs to make videos so that I would feel comfortable in hiring them to come to my home. Not just good info/education for me, but great advertising for the HVAC Techs too.
Agreed - I watch all these videos and wish I could find someone in my area who does such quality work. The large company in my area, who installed my new whole-house system, was skimping on the "annual required maintenance" for the first three years! In the fourth year, the guy said, "hey they haven't even opened this cleaning port" and he had to cut into the insulation to get to a drain pain that was filled with crap and rust already.
My mom hired a guy to clean out her furnace. I just happened to stop over that day and I checked on the camera what he was doing. Watching baseball for 40 minutes banging on the side once and awhile. Lol.. it was great when he came upstairs and asked for 200$ told him to hit the road your on camera watching baseball bud.
This makes me happy and I look forward to my AC and heat pump unit work. It’s not so stressful when it’s simplified. I really want that book too. I plan on buying any other resources too. I appreciate the videos and knowledge you share, thank you!
I ve bought 3 mini ductless systems and this really helps me with the installation. I have to buy a few more tools and I'll be ready for the job. Thanks for the vodios they re so helpful, I'm always learning from u guys especially what my instructor in hvac school left out. I didnt know anything about the dry and wet bulbs, he never explained this, so I was always in the dark on how much refrigerant should be in a system.
Craig, great video. I purchased your book as well and it’s excellent. I do the same setup with one difference. I hook my service hose with ball valve to the side port on my second valve core tool. I leave the refrigerant bottle valve closed but my service hose valve open during final vacuum so that I am vacuuming the air out of my service hose. Then I close the valve on my service hose right before I turn off the vacuum pump and do a decay test. Then I isolate my vacuum gauge, open the valve on my refrigerant bottle, and use the valve on my service hose to throttle in the required charge. The advantage to me is I have pulled out some of the entrained air and moisture from my service hose by subjecting it to vacuum, and I don’t have to wonder how much air I purged out of the service hose using refrigerant to push it out, or lose any more refrigerant than necessary. There is also air between the valve on the service hose and the valve on the first core removal tool that is impossible to purge normally. I’m interested to hear what you think of this setup and if it makes sense or if there is a downside to the way I do it that I’m not thinking of. Thanks
I love your videos. I installed a mini split but messed up one of the flare connections when I shortened the line set, and lost all of my refrigerant. After having several companies come out and give me ridiculously high bids, while berating me for trying to do "this kind of work" as a homeowner, I was fed up. Watched your whole series and learned so much. I realized that of the 4 ac techs that came out, not one knew how to properly evacuate, test and recharge a mini split correctly. And not one wanted to do super heat, saying, "There's no need to do that".
Well, to be fair, handling refrigerant when you're unlicensed is discouraged and even illegal in many places. What you just caused to the environment after letting all that refer into the air isn't something trivial. My take is that you can install the indoor and outdoor unit to your heart's content and then call an HVAC technician to assist you in the piping, leak testing, and charging of your system.
@@wolfdale_3m Ah, BS, BS and more BS. 2 of the techs that came out planned on letting the rest of the refrigerant out and weighing in the proper amount. I asked them if they used a recovery tanks and they both said something to the effect of "Nah. It's not enough to matter". As for "illegal in most places", two of the techs that came out weren't licensed HVAC contractors at all. They are working for an HVAC company under that license under "supervision". I don't know about the other two because I didn't get their full name. You should probably bone up on EPA regulations before trying spew nonsense. The whole HVAC industry is a racket. I just found a way around it.
@@wolfdale_3m HAHAHAAA! Yeah. Because AC techs don't "add a pound" to units all the time that aren't cooling correctly. HAHHAHAHAAA! Where do AC techs think that refrigerant is going? They don't care. They just want to make money. Pfff.
@@jakekostogiannis Clearly you don't know what measuring superheat is. I would rather learn and do it correctly, than pay a "professional" who doesn't have a clue.
Right On Great Video. The wanted 700+ to do the final process of my Pioneer Mini Split process. I just built a mobile office from the frame up, I wasn't about to pay anyone for something so simple. I ordered the valve core removers and the vacuum gauge because hey you need quality instruments. I initially ordered a vacuum gauge and pump set off amazon. Big mistake. I couldn't get the vacuum to go under 1000 microns, kept chasing my tail, thought I had moisture in the new system, pump sounded awful too. Eventually ran and got a 2 stage 3CFM vacuum pump from harbor freight and used a line out of the kit to connect, still chased my tail for hours. Almost regretted taking it on myself. Then sat and thought there has to be an issue with the line because vacuum be going down and then up. Changed the vacuum line and bam it was headed in the right direction. Got it down to 160, went back in the morning and it held at 240. I know vacuum is a huge part of it so, I was happy. I didn't nitrogen pressure test. I know I should have but had to try to skimp due to funds. Also key note, in a 2 ton Pioneer mini split, both the liquid and vapor lines have access ports and they are switched from this video. Liquid line is on the bottom. In any case the process worked well and it is blowing cold and hot. Thanks for the detailed video and links!
Thank you so much for the clear and concise information. I appreciate that you took the time to both show and tell what you were doing and how it was done.
Great video, each time I watch this I get a little more info. This process was a little tricky getting right, thanks for clearing up the matter for me.
You are amazing in detail. Buying my own tools to maintain my ductless installed. Had a 20 year hvac vet install my line sets and charge, 3 out of 5 leaked. Now he won’t come back after being paid- wants more money and had to call another company. They want about $1500 to do this. But I want to learn. These break downs affect the working class way more than people that have wealth. I saved 13k to get this done and this is what I got.
Very informative video. I do have a lroblem when doing a vacuum procedure. The vacuum pump vacuums to 200 microns but after 10 min it rises to 1000 microns. The flares are perfect and the system is new. Your help is deeply appreciated
did you receive an answer? same boat here...two unit LGsystem with 70' of Lineset between the two. Two appion VCR tools, 1/2" appion vacuum hose, fresh JB oil in pump. Pulls tight down to 250 then after isolating the system it rises to 800 then down to 790 and holds. Nylog on the face of every flare in both the system and vacuum rig. Don't have access to nitrogen. Does it have to be 500 microns?
Just wanted thank you for the material. You can add a table of contents for ease of navigation imho. Installed yesterday 2 modules using techniques you described.
You are telling that by removing the valve core you get a faster and deeper vacuum. I understand that it is faster but why deeper? Waiting long enough should lead to same results. Or am I wrong? Great video, so on point and clear.
Meticulous Instructions!! You have just displayed why it's important to have someone vacuum the lines - and to do it properly! Thank you! Awesome video!
Hello. Great video. Question about adding refrigerant. Scenario: full evacuation of 410A from a multi zone mini split/ nitrogen pressure test/ vacuum down to below 200 um and hold. If one needed to add /weigh in the full factory charge of fresh 410A to the mini split in this scenario, would they add as a liquid and all of it, example 95 ounces 410A. How quickly would that adding process be…continuous until the weight added was achieved??? or slowly and a little at a time??? If so…how slow…5 oz at a time??? 20 oz at a time?? Second question: The valves of all the zones should be back seated (opened) previous to adding, as the line sets (25’) are not enough to hold all of that refrigerant, correct? Thanks!
I installed a 9000 BTU Senville. A friend in the HVAC field came over to pull the vacuum. We're in Fl. and it's fairly warm right now, but his pump was a single stage and it took forever for the micro gauge to get down to around 300. Other than that, he used the same equipment and procedure as you. We ran the unit after we released the refrigerant and it is super quite and super cold. He left and is out of town, but I read that I need to run the heat at some point after initial set up for 5 minutes. I only had the unit on for about 2 hrs after initial set up on auto cool. Today, I turned it on and it was blowing cold quickly I switched the mode to heat and the fan shut off and the door on the front of the inside head unit closed halfway. I waited for a minute or so and went back to the other function and everything worked. All other functions on the remote work and everything is wired right, was hoping you may have some insight to why there's no heat? Thanks!
I'm not a tech but I recall reading that it takes 5 minutes for the air to start blowing inside because the system needs time to reset the flow of the R410a so it is carrying heat to the indoor unit instead of cold.
The best tutorial I have seen. I was always concerned about those easy fit mini splits. If the lines are not pre gassed, but the compressor is then this explains a lot.
It's the little things... I really like how you show purging every little part of the system and the tools, really great. I am fascinated by how short a test it is though. I charge with Nitrogen to 400 lbs, and wait a while if I can. You only took 6 minutes (it took 4m to get to 340) in vacuum! I wouldn't have thought that was enough to be confident. Of course, time is money. Anyway, thanks so much for such a detailed video.
Thank you Thank you Thank you I follow your video and how to pressure test and vacuum, my system work out great . I didn't see a donate page or email address for me to send you a donation or tip via PayPal so I just brought your book on Amazon the $59.00 ac book . Thanks again appreciate the help .
Thank you for your awesome advices! HIGHLY APPRECIATED!!! 😎👍🍺 installed my 2 split units without problems after watching your videos! Super clear and simple!
There is good info in this video - thanks. Micron, as used here, seems to be a term of trade. As used here, as a unit of vacuum instead of distance, there are 1000 microns to a torr (1 torr= 1 mm Hg). Atmosphere is 760 torr or mm Hg.
Very educational, thank you. Two questions: 1- You shut off the valve so fast when purging air out of the refrigerant bottle hose, it's hard to tell what you are doing. Does it stop hissing when the refrigerant hits the valve or is there something else you are looking/listening for? 2- What do you do with the extra refrigerant in the hose once you are finished with the job?
What you can basically do is let a little bit of refrigerant out(liquid form ) it’s whitish, as soon as you see a little you shut the valve off. You do this so no moisture goes inside the line set. And If its just a little just air it out.
HI Craig, your videos are the best I have seen. I love this set up because this is the only thing I do when it comes to HVAC, i.e., setting up new mini splits, and this set up eliminates the need for using a manifold gauge set which introduce more potential for leaks and contamination from oily gooey heavily used guage sets. Video request, please do one on the entire Nitrogen pressure test. Support Craigs VIDEOS, I bought all the tools with your links! One tool that I bought not on your list is the metric Master Cool mini split torque wrenches. (The line sets that come with the units are metric or SEA on the OD of the nut, but if you buy a set at a local supply house in the USA the OD on the nut will be SAE but the threads will be the same. Therefore, you would have to buy the Master Cool SAE set). One question, In a brand new system, If I am not adding any new refrigerent in, would I reinsert the valve core after I release the refrigerant from the compressor for the first time after isolating the micron gauge? Thanks again and everyone buy the tools from his links!
I am from the UK and a newbee to the air conditioning world. From the few people I've spoken to in the trade and from watching UK mini split installations on UA-cam, the trend here is that less than 4000 microns is an acceptable vacuum level. All of them are using a gauge set and 1/4" hoses. I've followed Craig's steps and my last vacuum achieved 280 microns on a mini split with a 4 metre line set length. This was measured with a Fieldpiece MG44 vacuum gauge and Navac 1/2" hose and Navac core removal tools. After the vacuum I found oil in the hose and wondered if this is normal?
Hey Craig, Your videos are quite helpful and educational. I have one question regarding the oil level in a compressor of a mini split system. If I have a leak and I fixed said leak. I have to pressure test and vacuum the while system inclusive the compressor. If I vacuum the compressor I'd be taking the oil out of it as well, right? How do I get the right amount of oil back into the compressor? I appreciate every help I can get.
Just wondering how much of that 2.3 ounces of referigerant could have gotten waste inside the hose instead of getting into the system. This becomes more substantial when you are adding the entire amount of referigerant, say after the previous one has leaked.
Here in Japan most of the guys use this tool that threads onto the service port, and you attach the vacuum hose to it, then you turn a knob with depresses the Schrader valve in the service port and then they vacuum the lines and head unit. They usually will let it pump for 10-15 min. They have no vacuum gauge attached anywhere, maybe there is one on the vacuum pump but, but often no gauge at all. I spent the money and bought the two valve core removal tools you have and the CPS Micron Vacuum gauge too. I could pump down my lines and head unit to 310 microns, but after 10 min with the valve core removal tool turned off to isolate the vacuum pump, the reading was 300 microns. That should be good to go, yes? My problem with all of this is the ability to pressure test. I don't do this full time, it is one of the many things I do here in Tokyo, another service I offer to my non-Japanese clients is the removal and installation of aircons, 100% mini-splits. I have seen a lot of Aircons installed here and I've never, ever seen anyone do a pressure test. Looking in the catalog from an Aircon supply company they do sell the nitrogen bottles and the regulators, but they cost $500 for the bottle and then $50 to refill it. I'll have to spend the money at some point, but I really don't have the cash on hand right now. My question is, can I use CO2 to pressure test? I have that gas in abundance, I use it on my MIG welder and my wife's family run a liquor shop and I can get a smaller bottle of CO2 used for the draught beer machines easily. If I use CO2 to pressure test and then I vacuum out the lines and head unit, would that be OK? I feel that I already know the answer and it's no, but I thought I'd ask, LOL Oh, would Argon work? I have Argon for my TIG welder. Love these videos, bought the E-book and I'm learning a lot. Thank you VERY much for your time. Cheers from Tokyo!
I don't use CO2 or argon but some techs here do use them. As long as it is an inert gas and it does not leave humidity in the lines that needs to get vacuumed out then it is ok but make sure not to over pressurize the systems though, thanks for your comments and desire to do the processes correctly for the customers and for the sake of your name!
@@acservicetechchannel I again Craig, thank you so much for the information. Turns out I did not have the correct fittings to connect the CO2 bottle to the system, so I did not use the CO2 to pressure test. I talked to a Japanese guy that does a lot of these mini-splits, he said that for the mini-split since there are only a total of four connections and they are very straight forward it is unusual to pressure test them. Larger industrial or commercial AC or refrigeration setups with lots of connections and joints, yes they are pressure tested. Things are done differently here, I guess. What he did suggest was that I do the vacuuming of the lines and head unit then I open the valve on the liquid, small line to release refrigerant for maybe 5 seconds, into the system, then close the valve again. Then I could do my bubble check on the joints, but he thought this was overkill. Using the two valve core removal tools and the CPS vacuum gauge I vacuumed the lines and head unit. I got it down to 54 microns, (took a picture!) and then I isolated the vacuum pump from the system and waited 10 min. The gauge normalized at 100 microns. I then waited another 10 min and the gauge still read 100 microns. I did just like you show and I isolated the vacuum gauge with the 1/4" valve removal tool and then I opened the valves from the compressor unit to allow refrigerant into the lines and head unit. Question, do you usually hear any sound when you do this, like a gurgling sound? When I did it there was no sound at all...? I then replaced the valve into the service port, had to push fairly hard against the pressure in the lines, but it worked, I checked the valve for leaks, there were none. I then checked the other flare joints for leaks with the bubble stuff, no leaks. Good to go, the client is happy and so am I, your setup works really well, and super slick. Thank you again! Cheers from Tokyo!
Hi Craig, Thanks for all your great help with all these videos ! I have your book as well. As a DIYer of a 30000 btu Mitsubishi unit , it calls for the final vacuum to 500 mic your book states to follow the manufacturers guidelines . Would like your input on this matter before I pull it down to 300 microns
Hi Craig, great video. Got a quick question. Say for instance you have a mini split that is completely empty on charge, (i.e. compressor replacement, etc). I assume you do the vacuum process just like you described, but when pulling the vacuum you leave both service valves open to ensure you’re pulling vacuum on the outdoor unit as well?
When you vented the air out of yellow charging hose was it then full of liquid before you started charging the system ? If there was vapor still in the yellow hose you might not be charging the system properly as some of the liquid refrigerant you are weighting might just be filling the yellow hose. I am a newbie and have never done this. Please explain. Also what did you do with the yellow hose full of liquid. Should you have throttled it at the gas bottle valve so there would only ever be vapor in the yellow hose ? Again i have never done this and i am not suggesting that you could do anything better. Thanks very much for this video. It was really great.
It would be nice to know where you got the gauges, adapters and things like that. EDIT: Just came to the video that said the parts are linked! Awesome! I will check it out when I get home... work is blocking all the links. I'm a homeowner but plan on installing my Mitsubishi mini split in my garage. I'm being quoted $8k for a 18k BTU system and I can buy the system for $3800... $4,200 they are charging in labor, so I have ZERO issues buying all the tools needed to be able to do exactly what you are doing. Even if I spend a grand or two on the tools, I am still coming out ahead knowing that it's done properly and not rushed. That's the biggest thing I see now when having work done. It's rushed and not thoroughly checked/completed. If I am doing the work I can take as long as I need to ensure that it's done correctly and 100%, rather than paying someone to do said job and find out months later that something was skipped or not done properly.
Thank you for using your training and knowledge to help us "sometimers" be able to diagnose problems with our home systems so we have a better idea of the trouble when we call a tech to come fix it. Or it may be something that we could take care ourselves. Either way a better understanding of the systems and how they work is helpful.
I have not had to deal with an initial charge on any AC units. In a perfect world, my future AC guy would be as careful and precise with evacuation, charging, and startup as you are.
Great video....One thing i am not clear on though is, when you were charging why you didn't let the unit run, I was taught that when charging freon the unit should be running? I'm looking forward to your response, thanks.
I was breaking the vacuum with refrigerant from the bottle instead of refrigerant from the unit. After adding from the bottle, I open the service valves, thanks!
Is this the same procedure when adding all the refrigerant a unit needs? Some resources say to have the indoor unit in cooling mode when weighing in refrigerant while other resources say to have it off. Can you please tell me which is the correct procedure? Thank you
Great Video, I am about to install my mini split system and even though I have many HVAC tools I don't have a nitrogen bottle to test for leaks, I would need a bottle and gauges which I would only use once. Can I just vacuum to check for leaks?
Failed recharge. sigh. I recently installed a new Senville 18K btu unit. Did a 1.5 hr vacuum test, no problem. Finished setup and started the system running. (note: It's winter!) It started heating just fine. Then I got a call and had to leave for six hours. Came back - and it wasn't heating anymore. Turned it off, and checked the Freon pressure. it was 0. Apparently the system developed a nasty leak somewhere. Since I had shortened the lineset (I only need about 20'), I assumed my flaring job wasn't good enough. Due to shipping snafus, I had a spare lineset (25'), so I just replaced my shortened one with a factory built one (and looped it). Since I had to wait for the Freon to arrive, I did a VERY LONG (4 day) vacuum test. It held vacuum. It's 36 deg F outside. Since there was no freon and I didn't want to run the compressor when empty, I did a slow fill to 100psi. Then powered up the system, and was able to fill it to 115psi. Wouldn't go higher. (freon too cold??) Yes, it's in Cooling mode - as I do have an alternate heat source in the house. Let it run for 15 minutes - no cooling, blower running inside, the fan on the outside unit is NOT running, but I can hear the compressor running. Pressure hasn't changed. Tried flipping it to Heat mode, and waited 15 minutes. No heating inside, inside blower running, outside fan and compressor running. No heat. Pressure hasn't changed. Gave up and shut it all down. Any suggestions?
Thank you for this professional video. At around 8:40, you mentioned how extra refrigerant must be added if you add a line set that is longer than what the unit comes pre-charged for. What if a unit comes pre-charged for, say, a 25-foot line set, but a 15-foot line set is used instead? Would refrigerant have to be released in this case? I have an LG mini split whose manual says the unit is pre-charged for a 25-foot line set, and that 0.22 oz of refrigerant must be added for each additional foot of line. The manual also says that a 10-foot line set is the minimum that can be used, but there is no mention in the manual about releasing refrigerant when using a shorter line.
If it is a mini-split like this one then it likely handles a distance from 10 to 25' without a change in refrigerant amount. If any refrigerant needed to be removed, it must be recovered but in that case, it doesn't sound like it needs to be removed but LG may state that somewhere else in their literature, thanks!
I am installing a single zone 2 ton Fujitsu mini split. Maximum line set with out adding is 66 feet, but no minimum is mentioned. If I use ten feet will I have to recover some? Also it says to not leak check with nitrogen, it says to leak check with vacuum pump. I watched you use nitrogen other times, I’m trying to sort this out. Do you have any advice for a person trying to build their skill. I did just order your book on Amazon, so looking forward to that! Thank you for all the effort you put in!
Thank you for showing the detailed procedures for proper charging the split ac unit. I have a query for installation a brand new ac split unit as follows... 1. After connection the brand new liquid pipe and vapor pipe between the outside unit and inside unit, 2. the worker did not carry out (a) the pressure test and (b) sucking the vacuum for extracting air and moisture from the pressure hose. 3. Instead, the worker just release one of the valves at the external unit. 4. Then some refrigerant from the external unit and fill the pressure the pipe... I just wonder why (1) the labour did not carry out the pressure test and sucking vacuum for the newly installed pressure pipes. (2) the labour did not use charging refrigerant into the system from external tank. (3) the labour just release one of the valves at the outside unit. Then refrigerants come from the external unit itself and fill the pressure pipes (weired!!!). The system works for two years and still in chilling condition. As a layman, I am not in position for challenging the worker for omitting procedure (1) and (2) for a brand new split unit. As a professional trader, are you satisfying what the worker done? If not, what is your advice if you are the layman watching something seems wrong for above case? Thank you.
If the unit just had a compressor replaced what the proper way to weigh the refrigerant back in ? Should I fill using the liquid line port that is connected to the compressor or should I add on the suction port where the line set is connected? I don’t want to flood the compressor Thank you
What is the design specification for these mini splits as for temperature differential between the outside temperature and air temp. coming out of the evaporator inside the house? Also does the differential depend on the refrigerant?
Great vids! No one has a video on removing part of the charge on a minisplit that has shorter lines than the built in charge was designed for. Can you please do one? I feel like it's just release the full charge into the lines, start the system, and slowly recover via the suction side of your manifold into a recovery tank while monitoring the scale until you reach the weight that matches the pre-charged weight minus the final weight your line length requires. Is that correct?
As always, thanks for the informative videos! Why are the valves shut-off (at the ~14:25 portion you show being turned back on)? I went back to the beginning and didn't see shutting them off. Wouldn't you want the valves open to fill the compressor piping, or is drawing a vacuum on the compressor a bad thing?
Hi Craig, I noticed that the add-on charge amounts listed in your guide are roughly half of what my manufacturer recommends. This is for a 1/4l x 5/8s Gree single zone 36k mini split. They say .5 oz/ft, and your guide says .2076 oz/ft? I assume this amount of variation must not be that critical?
A nice video, however, I must admit that I've installed 10 mini-split units in my house, and they have lasted for years, and I've never vacuumed new air conditioners. When you do this job right (proper connections to lines), you don't need to go through a vacuum process and just purge the system. After releasing the gas from the source line, you have to bleed the system (purge process) through the valve for 8 to 10 seconds. and that's it.
This is apparently for new systems. What about older systems that may need a flair fitting fixed? Would you recover refrigerate back into the unit, fix flair fittings and then do the exact same procedure? What about if the existing refrigerate is low from a leak and you fix leak, then instead of pulling the refrigerate back into unit, do you start from scratch and weigh in recommended amount of refrigerate?
Can you please guide if all the gas has leaked out of the system i.e. no gas in the system, then how will I vacuum the complete system and charge the refrigerant? Will vacuuming with service ports open and system depressurized, suck the compressor oil up? Also how to know if compressor oil is up to the level and does not need a top up?
Hello and BIG thank you this video! Very appreciated. May i ask you a question: Im am a DIYer in Europe. I have a small inverter mini split ac system ( daikin emura 3 7000 BTU, R32). After a major leaking problem (now fixed) the systerm needs a a complete new refrigerant charge of r32. By the data sheet it needs 780g + 100g( for extra lengh of piping) The system has a service port on the low pressure side only. I intend to refill the exact amount by using a scale. Now my question: After pressure testing and pulling a vacuum on the entire system, when the r32 refrigerant is charged as liquid ( bottle upside down) on the low pressure side, can i fill the entire amount while the system is off? Or do i need to fill a certain amount and then turn on the system to fill the rest? Your help is much appreciated. Best wishes from europe
Mini Split Book on Our Website- www.acservicetech.com/mini-split-book
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Mini Split E-Book on Google- play.google.com/store/books/details?id=HN-iEAAAQBAJ
Mini Split E-Book on Apple- books.apple.com/us/book/id6445178399
Where did you purchase the 5/16" female quick connect x 1/4" female SAE adapter for the pressure gauge. Can only find female x male adapters . Thanks
hiya, could you tell me the pipe run length (i'm guessing short?) and obviously its difficult to see from a video but is that 1/2 and 1/4 pipe?
Thanks
thank you so much because you now i can service ac 😍🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹
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I have seen many videos on how to do this procedure but none of them even come close to the clarity and precision that A/c service tech brings to the table.
Thank you sir for helping the general save money and the atmosphere at the same time.
I am glad that you learned and enjoyed it, thanks!
I'm a DIYer homeowner, not a tech. But for some reason I find heat pump technology fascinating even though at my age as an SW engineer, becoming a professional HVAC technician is not in the cards. After my 2nd multi-zone mini-split install where your videos provided most of what I needed to know, I finally bought your eBook. Your videos and free online docs helped me so much that I decided to get your eBook (to learn about checking and recharging a unit), and to understand things better. Also, you've earned the respect and appreciation to get some remuneration for your service, IMO. After getting about 10 pages in where you introduce the basics of refrigeration and the physics, I'm beyond impressed. The diagrams are excellent. The explanations, are clear, thorough, and convey the points succinctly.
For anyone reading this, I'm in no way affiliated with these people, I'm just saying if you actually want to understand the core concepts and/or specifics, the book is a worthwhile investment. The eBook is pretty reasonably priced considering how good an educator the author is.
Same here, in fact it drove me to get my 608 and it has become a hobby...
Glad to hear other diyr’s can take this up as a fairly technical “hobby”. Not a sw engineer but web developer. Could you work on a traditional outdoor condenser unit, or the indoor evarporator?
Its good for doing stuff on your home I guess, but not to work as a tech, then you have to deal with using ladders, aggressive dogs, lady's who are never satisficed with the work, customers that hit on you (both women and men), it can create all sorts of drama, is it worth it to spends hundreds of dollars for work you do perhaps twice a year? I'm not sure it is a cost saver, also you have to separate space to keep these tools in working order
I also do lot of DIY mostly automotive AC. In the last 3 years HVAC contractors have tripled their pricing, and many are just sales people trying to sell you new unit or a service plan. Now I do my own annual maintenance on my 4 ton packaged heat pump on my roof. I even ran a pex line off my evap cooler to connect a hose so I could wash the condenser every 6 months or after dust storms. I stock parts for my unit and my mothers AC split system caps, condenser fan motors, contactor. Local HVAC suppliers here refuse to sell to the public just buy online. The $1000 in stocking my parts, and HVAC tools is a tiny amount what one service call now costs from a local HVAC tech. My mother had a compressor run cap replaced HVAC tech charged her $680 that was during the week day not even at night or weekend. If they come after hours cap cost $1000 to replace it. New packaged unit install cost $12-15k now for a single stage goodman. Not even talking about duct work just $400 crane lift and use the same stand and elbow.
I can't say enough about how I appreciate these. I have been doing HVAC/R for eight years now and I always go back and read, watch, learn, over and over again. Never being satisfied in myself, but making sure I do things always to the best I can. Plus my memory really sucks. Thank you!
Hey you will be great with all the investing you are doing in yourself!
Same here but at least we care enough to try our best..So many half ass techs out there just trying to bang them out and get done fast..
I installed a Fujitsu last week, pulled down to and held 101 microns using your methods. You're my go to instructor.
Awesome Kenneth, great job!! Thanks for letting me know!
what is the size of charging port on your fujitsu split? is it 5/16 inch?
@@lordjaashin yes
I just used this exact method with the exact two Appion valve core removal tools in order to install a 9000btu mini split. Even with the cheap harbor freight vacuum pump it pulled a great vacuum and held steady; I observed no leaks. As a homeowner I am excited to be able to do some of my own HVAC work. Thanks for these training videos. They are fascinating!
Until the epa shows up to your house lol
@@shane2163 so far so good
Excellent, I'm doing the same and plan to install these for my neighbors for a lot cheaper than an HVAC "pro"!
Wish I was your neighbor I’d turn you in
@@robertlamey7612 haha to whom, and for what?
I love this guy. So smart and doesn't over complicate what he's doing. Kudos to you!
Thank you for your support!
I have installed two zone system just after wactching your videos this was my first job.
Thanks for sharing your knowladge
Thats great! Thank you for your support!
Which mini split did you install?
Which mini split did you install?
I would be more than happy to pay a technician more to charge my A/C if I knew he/she was as thorough as you. I've had a few guys come to our house that just bang on the unit and connect hoses and do not go to this detail (I guess that is why they've been here a few times). If nothing else, your video should be a good lesson to existing HVAC Techs to make videos so that I would feel comfortable in hiring them to come to my home. Not just good info/education for me, but great advertising for the HVAC Techs too.
Agreed, I am sick and tired of getting scammed by incompetent morons.
Agreed - I watch all these videos and wish I could find someone in my area who does such quality work. The large company in my area, who installed my new whole-house system, was skimping on the "annual required maintenance" for the first three years! In the fourth year, the guy said, "hey they haven't even opened this cleaning port" and he had to cut into the insulation to get to a drain pain that was filled with crap and rust already.
That’s why I never hire anyone to do work on my house. I’m better off watching UA-cam and learning something new.
My mom hired a guy to clean out her furnace. I just happened to stop over that day and I checked on the camera what he was doing. Watching baseball for 40 minutes banging on the side once and awhile. Lol.. it was great when he came upstairs and asked for 200$ told him to hit the road your on camera watching baseball bud.
Charging 200 dollars per pound of Freon by 6 lbs 1200 $$ with out touching anything else
The best and most thorough video I’ve found. I have all the tools just used incorrectly. Thank you.
This makes me happy and I look forward to my AC and heat pump unit work. It’s not so stressful when it’s simplified. I really want that book too. I plan on buying any other resources too. I appreciate the videos and knowledge you share, thank you!
Thank you so much!!!
I ve bought 3 mini ductless systems and this really helps me with the installation. I have to buy a few more tools and I'll be ready for the job. Thanks for the vodios they re so helpful, I'm always learning from u guys especially what my instructor in hvac school left out. I didnt know anything about the dry and wet bulbs, he never explained this, so I was always in the dark on how much refrigerant should be in a system.
Craig, great video. I purchased your book as well and it’s excellent. I do the same setup with one difference. I hook my service hose with ball valve to the side port on my second valve core tool. I leave the refrigerant bottle valve closed but my service hose valve open during final vacuum so that I am vacuuming the air out of my service hose. Then I close the valve on my service hose right before I turn off the vacuum pump and do a decay test. Then I isolate my vacuum gauge, open the valve on my refrigerant bottle, and use the valve on my service hose to throttle in the required charge. The advantage to me is I have pulled out some of the entrained air and moisture from my service hose by subjecting it to vacuum, and I don’t have to wonder how much air I purged out of the service hose using refrigerant to push it out, or lose any more refrigerant than necessary. There is also air between the valve on the service hose and the valve on the first core removal tool that is impossible to purge normally. I’m interested to hear what you think of this setup and if it makes sense or if there is a downside to the way I do it that I’m not thinking of. Thanks
Excellent! You are a great service to the HVAC Community Craig. Oh yeah your book is terrific, worth every penny.
Thank you very much Lester!
Wapp nu plzz sir
best explained charging video yet. Thanks
I love your videos. I installed a mini split but messed up one of the flare connections when I shortened the line set, and lost all of my refrigerant. After having several companies come out and give me ridiculously high bids, while berating me for trying to do "this kind of work" as a homeowner, I was fed up. Watched your whole series and learned so much. I realized that of the 4 ac techs that came out, not one knew how to properly evacuate, test and recharge a mini split correctly. And not one wanted to do super heat, saying, "There's no need to do that".
Well, to be fair, handling refrigerant when you're unlicensed is discouraged and even illegal in many places. What you just caused to the environment after letting all that refer into the air isn't something trivial.
My take is that you can install the indoor and outdoor unit to your heart's content and then call an HVAC technician to assist you in the piping, leak testing, and charging of your system.
@@wolfdale_3m Ah, BS, BS and more BS. 2 of the techs that came out planned on letting the rest of the refrigerant out and weighing in the proper amount. I asked them if they used a recovery tanks and they both said something to the effect of "Nah. It's not enough to matter".
As for "illegal in most places", two of the techs that came out weren't licensed HVAC contractors at all. They are working for an HVAC company under that license under "supervision". I don't know about the other two because I didn't get their full name.
You should probably bone up on EPA regulations before trying spew nonsense. The whole HVAC industry is a racket. I just found a way around it.
Do the superheat? Come on. Hire someone who knows.
@@wolfdale_3m HAHAHAAA! Yeah. Because AC techs don't "add a pound" to units all the time that aren't cooling correctly. HAHHAHAHAAA! Where do AC techs think that refrigerant is going?
They don't care. They just want to make money. Pfff.
@@jakekostogiannis Clearly you don't know what measuring superheat is. I would rather learn and do it correctly, than pay a "professional" who doesn't have a clue.
Right On Great Video. The wanted 700+ to do the final process of my Pioneer Mini Split process. I just built a mobile office from the frame up, I wasn't about to pay anyone for something so simple. I ordered the valve core removers and the vacuum gauge because hey you need quality instruments. I initially ordered a vacuum gauge and pump set off amazon. Big mistake. I couldn't get the vacuum to go under 1000 microns, kept chasing my tail, thought I had moisture in the new system, pump sounded awful too. Eventually ran and got a 2 stage 3CFM vacuum pump from harbor freight and used a line out of the kit to connect, still chased my tail for hours. Almost regretted taking it on myself. Then sat and thought there has to be an issue with the line because vacuum be going down and then up. Changed the vacuum line and bam it was headed in the right direction. Got it down to 160, went back in the morning and it held at 240. I know vacuum is a huge part of it so, I was happy. I didn't nitrogen pressure test. I know I should have but had to try to skimp due to funds. Also key note, in a 2 ton Pioneer mini split, both the liquid and vapor lines have access ports and they are switched from this video. Liquid line is on the bottom. In any case the process worked well and it is blowing cold and hot. Thanks for the detailed video and links!
Thank you so much for the clear and concise information.
I appreciate that you took the time to both show and tell what you were doing and how it was done.
Clear, fast, detailed and directly to the point! Thanks for your detailed video!
This video helped me out a lot. I'm still learning on mini split systems
Love this, I was supposed to reclass into HVAC while in the military, i'll check your books out. :)
Great video, each time I watch this I get a little more info. This process was a little tricky getting right, thanks for clearing up the matter for me.
If you are recharging the system after evacuation and vacuum do you recharge with the valves closed or open?
I used the Spin Flair set on my last installation. It works perfectly! I would highly recommend it
Nice, thanks for letting me know!
You are amazing in detail. Buying my own tools to maintain my ductless installed. Had a 20 year hvac vet install my line sets and charge, 3 out of 5 leaked. Now he won’t come back after being paid- wants more money and had to call another company. They want about $1500 to do this. But I want to learn. These break downs affect the working class way more than people that have wealth. I saved 13k to get this done and this is what I got.
Very informative video. I do have a lroblem when doing a vacuum procedure. The vacuum pump vacuums to 200 microns but after 10 min it rises to 1000 microns. The flares are perfect and the system is new. Your help is deeply appreciated
did you receive an answer? same boat here...two unit LGsystem with 70' of Lineset between the two. Two appion VCR tools, 1/2" appion vacuum hose, fresh JB oil in pump. Pulls tight down to 250 then after isolating the system it rises to 800 then down to 790 and holds. Nylog on the face of every flare in both the system and vacuum rig. Don't have access to nitrogen. Does it have to be 500 microns?
@@jenklingler8169 You will be fine as long as it stays under 2000 micron in 30 minutes
Just wanted thank you for the material. You can add a table of contents for ease of navigation imho. Installed yesterday 2 modules using techniques you described.
You are telling that by removing the valve core you get a faster and deeper vacuum. I understand that it is faster but why deeper? Waiting long enough should lead to same results. Or am I wrong? Great video, so on point and clear.
Great stuff!!! Almost perfect! The best description I've seen so far.
Meticulous Instructions!!
You have just displayed why it's important to have someone vacuum the lines - and to do it properly!
Thank you! Awesome video!
Hello. Great video. Question about adding refrigerant. Scenario: full evacuation of 410A from a multi zone mini split/ nitrogen pressure test/ vacuum down to below 200 um and hold. If one needed to add /weigh in the full factory charge of fresh 410A to the mini split in this scenario, would they add as a liquid and all of it, example 95 ounces 410A. How quickly would that adding process be…continuous until the weight added was achieved??? or slowly and a little at a time??? If so…how slow…5 oz at a time??? 20 oz at a time??
Second question: The valves of all the zones should be back seated (opened) previous to adding, as the line sets (25’) are not enough to hold all of that refrigerant, correct?
Thanks!
I installed a 9000 BTU Senville. A friend in the HVAC field came over to pull the vacuum. We're in Fl. and it's fairly warm right now, but his pump was a single stage and it took forever for the micro gauge to get down to around 300. Other than that, he used the same equipment and procedure as you. We ran the unit after we released the refrigerant and it is super quite and super cold. He left and is out of town, but I read that I need to run the heat at some point after initial set up for 5 minutes. I only had the unit on for about 2 hrs after initial set up on auto cool. Today, I turned it on and it was blowing cold quickly I switched the mode to heat and the fan shut off and the door on the front of the inside head unit closed halfway. I waited for a minute or so and went back to the other function and everything worked. All other functions on the remote work and everything is wired right, was hoping you may have some insight to why there's no heat? Thanks!
I'm not a tech but I recall reading that it takes 5 minutes for the air to start blowing inside because the system needs time to reset the flow of the R410a so it is carrying heat to the indoor unit instead of cold.
@@cruisemates You're exactly right. I wasn't giving it enough time. Thanks
These videos are excellent. You're really a master of this stuff.
The best tutorial I have seen. I was always concerned about those easy fit mini splits. If the lines are not pre gassed, but the compressor is then this explains a lot.
Great step-by-step procedures Craig and keep up the good work!
Thanks a lot Stuzman!
Excellent idea with the bubbles tester cap.
Thank you!
Thank you Sir, you have a very straight forward explanation.
It's the little things... I really like how you show purging every little part of the system and the tools, really great.
I am fascinated by how short a test it is though. I charge with Nitrogen to 400 lbs, and wait a while if I can. You only took 6 minutes (it took 4m to get to 340) in vacuum! I wouldn't have thought that was enough to be confident. Of course, time is money. Anyway, thanks so much for such a detailed video.
Vacuum time doesn't matter, only the vacuum level and I did a 10 minute standing vacuum test to verify true vacuum level, thanks!
Another Great Video Ordering The Book Tonight
Thank you
Thank you
Thank you
I follow your video and how to pressure test and vacuum, my system work out great .
I didn't see a donate page or email address for me to send you a donation or tip via PayPal so I just brought your book on Amazon the
$59.00 ac book . Thanks again appreciate the help .
Thank you for your awesome advices! HIGHLY APPRECIATED!!! 😎👍🍺 installed my 2 split units without problems after watching your videos! Super clear and simple!
Thanks a lot!
There is good info in this video - thanks. Micron, as used here, seems to be a term of trade. As used here, as a unit of vacuum instead of distance, there are 1000 microns to a torr (1 torr= 1 mm Hg). Atmosphere is 760 torr or mm Hg.
Very educational, thank you. Two questions:
1- You shut off the valve so fast when purging air out of the refrigerant bottle hose, it's hard to tell what you are doing. Does it stop hissing when the refrigerant hits the valve or is there something else you are looking/listening for?
2- What do you do with the extra refrigerant in the hose once you are finished with the job?
What you can basically do is let a little bit of refrigerant out(liquid form ) it’s whitish, as soon as you see a little you shut the valve off. You do this so no moisture goes inside the line set. And If its just a little just air it out.
HI Craig, your videos are the best I have seen. I love this set up because this is the only thing I do when it comes to HVAC, i.e., setting up new mini splits, and this set up eliminates the need for using a manifold gauge set which introduce more potential for leaks and contamination from oily gooey heavily used guage sets. Video request, please do one on the entire Nitrogen pressure test.
Support Craigs VIDEOS, I bought all the tools with your links! One tool that I bought not on your list is the metric Master Cool mini split torque wrenches. (The line sets that come with the units are metric or SEA on the OD of the nut, but if you buy a set at a local supply house in the USA the OD on the nut will be SAE but the threads will be the same. Therefore, you would have to buy the Master Cool SAE set).
One question, In a brand new system, If I am not adding any new refrigerent in, would I reinsert the valve core after I release the refrigerant from the compressor for the first time after isolating the micron gauge?
Thanks again and everyone buy the tools from his links!
Thank you very much and you would add the valve core after there is positive refrigerant pressure in the system thanks!
I am from the UK and a newbee to the air conditioning world. From the few people I've spoken to in the trade and from watching UK mini split installations on UA-cam, the trend here is that less than 4000 microns is an acceptable vacuum level. All of them are using a gauge set and 1/4" hoses. I've followed Craig's steps and my last vacuum achieved 280 microns on a mini split with a 4 metre line set length. This was measured with a Fieldpiece MG44 vacuum gauge and Navac 1/2" hose and Navac core removal tools. After the vacuum I found oil in the hose and wondered if this is normal?
Excellent video . Now I understand the basics of charging a mini split. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Craig,
Your videos are quite helpful and educational. I have one question regarding the oil level in a compressor of a mini split system.
If I have a leak and I fixed said leak. I have to pressure test and vacuum the while system inclusive the compressor. If I vacuum the compressor I'd be taking the oil out of it as well, right? How do I get the right amount of oil back into the compressor?
I appreciate every help I can get.
Just wondering how much of that 2.3 ounces of referigerant could have gotten waste inside the hose instead of getting into the system. This becomes more substantial when you are adding the entire amount of referigerant, say after the previous one has leaked.
Here in Japan most of the guys use this tool that threads onto the service port, and you attach the vacuum hose to it, then you turn a knob with depresses the Schrader valve in the service port and then they vacuum the lines and head unit. They usually will let it pump for 10-15 min. They have no vacuum gauge attached anywhere, maybe there is one on the vacuum pump but, but often no gauge at all. I spent the money and bought the two valve core removal tools you have and the CPS Micron Vacuum gauge too. I could pump down my lines and head unit to 310 microns, but after 10 min with the valve core removal tool turned off to isolate the vacuum pump, the reading was 300 microns. That should be good to go, yes?
My problem with all of this is the ability to pressure test. I don't do this full time, it is one of the many things I do here in Tokyo, another service I offer to my non-Japanese clients is the removal and installation of aircons, 100% mini-splits. I have seen a lot of Aircons installed here and I've never, ever seen anyone do a pressure test. Looking in the catalog from an Aircon supply company they do sell the nitrogen bottles and the regulators, but they cost $500 for the bottle and then $50 to refill it. I'll have to spend the money at some point, but I really don't have the cash on hand right now.
My question is, can I use CO2 to pressure test? I have that gas in abundance, I use it on my MIG welder and my wife's family run a liquor shop and I can get a smaller bottle of CO2 used for the draught beer machines easily. If I use CO2 to pressure test and then I vacuum out the lines and head unit, would that be OK?
I feel that I already know the answer and it's no, but I thought I'd ask, LOL
Oh, would Argon work? I have Argon for my TIG welder.
Love these videos, bought the E-book and I'm learning a lot.
Thank you VERY much for your time.
Cheers from Tokyo!
I don't use CO2 or argon but some techs here do use them. As long as it is an inert gas and it does not leave humidity in the lines that needs to get vacuumed out then it is ok but make sure not to over pressurize the systems though, thanks for your comments and desire to do the processes correctly for the customers and for the sake of your name!
@@acservicetechchannel I again Craig, thank you so much for the information.
Turns out I did not have the correct fittings to connect the CO2 bottle to the system, so I did not use the CO2 to pressure test.
I talked to a Japanese guy that does a lot of these mini-splits, he said that for the mini-split since there are only a total of four connections and they are very straight forward it is unusual to pressure test them. Larger industrial or commercial AC or refrigeration setups with lots of connections and joints, yes they are pressure tested.
Things are done differently here, I guess.
What he did suggest was that I do the vacuuming of the lines and head unit then I open the valve on the liquid, small line to release refrigerant for maybe 5 seconds, into the system, then close the valve again. Then I could do my bubble check on the joints, but he thought this was overkill.
Using the two valve core removal tools and the CPS vacuum gauge I vacuumed the lines and head unit. I got it down to 54 microns, (took a picture!) and then I isolated the vacuum pump from the system and waited 10 min. The gauge normalized at 100 microns. I then waited another 10 min and the gauge still read 100 microns.
I did just like you show and I isolated the vacuum gauge with the 1/4" valve removal tool and then I opened the valves from the compressor unit to allow refrigerant into the lines and head unit.
Question, do you usually hear any sound when you do this, like a gurgling sound? When I did it there was no sound at all...?
I then replaced the valve into the service port, had to push fairly hard against the pressure in the lines, but it worked, I checked the valve for leaks, there were none. I then checked the other flare joints for leaks with the bubble stuff, no leaks.
Good to go, the client is happy and so am I, your setup works really well, and super slick.
Thank you again!
Cheers from Tokyo!
Thanks for the great tutorial. For multizone units do you vacuum and recharge refrigerant from each service port or just one?
Another great video Craig. Thanks for explaining the 5/16 fitting.
Thanks Chris!
Brilliantly well presented, subscribed
Thanks and welcome!
Verry informative, thanks for posting!!!
that is the real training, subscribed!
Thanks Fred! Glad you enjoy the channel! We have resources over at www.acservicetech.com too.
This video is amazing! Thank you! Is the same procedure also valid also for a multi split with branch box?
What happens to your compressor if air goes in while you’re adding refrigerant?
Hi Craig,
Thanks for all your great help with all these videos ! I have your book as well.
As a DIYer of a 30000 btu Mitsubishi unit , it calls for the final vacuum to 500 mic
your book states to follow the manufacturers guidelines .
Would like your input on this matter before I pull it down to 300 microns
I know this is old and I’m not Craig but the lower the vacuum the better. What they mean is anything below 500 microns.
Splendid presentation, thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks Craig, you're and excellent instructor!
I appreciate that!
Great. I wish these materials were in Turkey. But even if he's here, it's too expensive. Your stuff's beautiful.
Glad you like them!
Hi Craig, great video. Got a quick question. Say for instance you have a mini split that is completely empty on charge, (i.e. compressor replacement, etc). I assume you do the vacuum process just like you described, but when pulling the vacuum you leave both service valves open to ensure you’re pulling vacuum on the outdoor unit as well?
When you vented the air out of yellow charging hose was it then full of liquid before you started charging the system ? If there was vapor still in the yellow hose you might not be charging the system properly as some of the liquid refrigerant you are weighting might just be filling the yellow hose. I am a newbie and have never done this. Please explain. Also what did you do with the yellow hose full of liquid. Should you have throttled it at the gas bottle valve so there would only ever be vapor in the yellow hose ? Again i have never done this and i am not suggesting that you could do anything better. Thanks very much for this video. It was really great.
It would be nice to know where you got the gauges, adapters and things like that. EDIT: Just came to the video that said the parts are linked! Awesome! I will check it out when I get home... work is blocking all the links.
I'm a homeowner but plan on installing my Mitsubishi mini split in my garage. I'm being quoted $8k for a 18k BTU system and I can buy the system for $3800... $4,200 they are charging in labor, so I have ZERO issues buying all the tools needed to be able to do exactly what you are doing. Even if I spend a grand or two on the tools, I am still coming out ahead knowing that it's done properly and not rushed.
That's the biggest thing I see now when having work done. It's rushed and not thoroughly checked/completed. If I am doing the work I can take as long as I need to ensure that it's done correctly and 100%, rather than paying someone to do said job and find out months later that something was skipped or not done properly.
I would have liked to see you include an inspection of all hose seals (o-rings) in every connection and oil them as needed.
I might have to add 410A to my mini Split this winter, what should the pressure read? I will have it HEAT Mode.
Thank you for using your training and knowledge to help us "sometimers" be able to diagnose problems with our home systems so we have a better idea of the trouble when we call a tech to come fix it. Or it may be something that we could take care ourselves. Either way a better understanding of the systems and how they work is helpful.
Thanks a lot Todd and thanks for your support on Patreon!
I have not had to deal with an initial charge on any AC units. In a perfect world, my future AC guy would be as careful and precise with evacuation, charging, and startup as you are.
Great video....One thing i am not clear on though is, when you were charging why you didn't let the unit run, I was taught that when charging freon the unit should be running? I'm looking forward to your response, thanks.
I was breaking the vacuum with refrigerant from the bottle instead of refrigerant from the unit. After adding from the bottle, I open the service valves, thanks!
That was good but what about the 410 that was weigh out and still in the yellow hose that never got in the system?
You should write a book Craig ... Lol ... Great vid as usual ... Much appreciated ...
Ha ha, great idea!!!!
Is this the same procedure when adding all the refrigerant a unit needs? Some resources say to have the indoor unit in cooling mode when weighing in refrigerant while other resources say to have it off. Can you please tell me which is the correct procedure? Thank you
Great Video, I am about to install my mini split system and even though I have many HVAC tools I don't have a nitrogen bottle to test for leaks, I would need a bottle and gauges which I would only use once. Can I just vacuum to check for leaks?
I'm sure my neighbors got tired of listening to this as I was looping this video while i was doing the job. Thanks
Same here. Been following all of their Videos and although i have purchased the F Gas manual, theirs is a must.
Thank you, you are a consummate Professional.
Can you add r32 refrigerant in heating mode this way, or do you have to do it differently? Because its winter here now.. Thanks!
Clear and concise!
Hi there from the uk ! Why don’t you just add R32 with the valve core in , obviously with a hose with a valve depressor ?? Your videos are fantastic
Failed recharge. sigh.
I recently installed a new Senville 18K btu unit. Did a 1.5 hr vacuum test, no problem.
Finished setup and started the system running. (note: It's winter!)
It started heating just fine. Then I got a call and had to leave for six hours.
Came back - and it wasn't heating anymore.
Turned it off, and checked the Freon pressure. it was 0. Apparently the system developed a nasty leak somewhere.
Since I had shortened the lineset (I only need about 20'), I assumed my flaring job wasn't good enough.
Due to shipping snafus, I had a spare lineset (25'), so I just replaced my shortened one with a factory built one (and looped it).
Since I had to wait for the Freon to arrive, I did a VERY LONG (4 day) vacuum test. It held vacuum.
It's 36 deg F outside.
Since there was no freon and I didn't want to run the compressor when empty, I did a slow fill to 100psi.
Then powered up the system, and was able to fill it to 115psi. Wouldn't go higher. (freon too cold??)
Yes, it's in Cooling mode - as I do have an alternate heat source in the house.
Let it run for 15 minutes - no cooling, blower running inside, the fan on the outside unit is NOT running, but I can hear the compressor running.
Pressure hasn't changed.
Tried flipping it to Heat mode, and waited 15 minutes. No heating inside, inside blower running, outside fan and compressor running.
No heat. Pressure hasn't changed.
Gave up and shut it all down.
Any suggestions?
Thank you for this professional video. At around 8:40, you mentioned how extra refrigerant must be added if you add a line set that is longer than what the unit comes pre-charged for. What if a unit comes pre-charged for, say, a 25-foot line set, but a 15-foot line set is used instead? Would refrigerant have to be released in this case? I have an LG mini split whose manual says the unit is pre-charged for a 25-foot line set, and that 0.22 oz of refrigerant must be added for each additional foot of line. The manual also says that a 10-foot line set is the minimum that can be used, but there is no mention in the manual about releasing refrigerant when using a shorter line.
If it is a mini-split like this one then it likely handles a distance from 10 to 25' without a change in refrigerant amount. If any refrigerant needed to be removed, it must be recovered but in that case, it doesn't sound like it needs to be removed but LG may state that somewhere else in their literature, thanks!
I am installing a single zone 2 ton Fujitsu mini split. Maximum line set with out adding is 66 feet, but no minimum is mentioned. If I use ten feet will I have to recover some? Also it says to not leak check with nitrogen, it says to leak check with vacuum pump. I watched you use nitrogen other times, I’m trying to sort this out. Do you have any advice for a person trying to build their skill. I did just order your book on Amazon, so looking forward to that! Thank you for all the effort you put in!
Thank you for showing the detailed procedures for proper charging the split ac unit.
I have a query for installation a brand new ac split unit as follows...
1. After connection the brand new liquid pipe and vapor pipe between the outside unit and inside unit,
2. the worker did not carry out (a) the pressure test and (b) sucking the vacuum for extracting air and moisture from the pressure hose.
3. Instead, the worker just release one of the valves at the external unit.
4. Then some refrigerant from the external unit and fill the pressure the pipe...
I just wonder why
(1) the labour did not carry out the pressure test and sucking vacuum for the newly installed pressure pipes.
(2) the labour did not use charging refrigerant into the system from external tank.
(3) the labour just release one of the valves at the outside unit. Then refrigerants come from the external unit itself and fill the pressure pipes (weired!!!).
The system works for two years and still in chilling condition.
As a layman, I am not in position for challenging the worker for omitting procedure (1) and (2) for a brand new split unit.
As a professional trader, are you satisfying what the worker done? If not, what is your advice if you are the layman watching something seems wrong for above case?
Thank you.
If the unit just had a compressor replaced what the proper way to weigh the refrigerant back in ? Should I fill using the liquid line port that is connected to the compressor or should I add on the suction port where the line set is connected?
I don’t want to flood the compressor
Thank you
Did you have to remove the valve core from the vacuum gauge?
love the two valve removal tools in tandem. great idea!
Glad you like them!
Excellent video I learn really good keep doing it !!!
Glad to hear that!
What is the design specification for these mini splits as for temperature differential between the outside temperature and air temp. coming out of the evaporator inside the house?
Also does the differential depend on the refrigerant?
i’m glad to see your using CPS gear, i’m about to buy CPS gauges and a 2 CFM vac pump
Great vids! No one has a video on removing part of the charge on a minisplit that has shorter lines than the built in charge was designed for. Can you please do one? I feel like it's just release the full charge into the lines, start the system, and slowly recover via the suction side of your manifold into a recovery tank while monitoring the scale until you reach the weight that matches the pre-charged weight minus the final weight your line length requires. Is that correct?
Fantastisk video tank you very much
I think my next leak detector will be an Accutrak detector . They are very precise .
As always, thanks for the informative videos!
Why are the valves shut-off (at the ~14:25 portion you show being turned back on)? I went back to the beginning and didn't see shutting them off. Wouldn't you want the valves open to fill the compressor piping, or is drawing a vacuum on the compressor a bad thing?
Hi Craig, I noticed that the add-on charge amounts listed in your guide are roughly half of what my manufacturer recommends. This is for a 1/4l x 5/8s Gree single zone 36k mini split. They say .5 oz/ft, and your guide says .2076 oz/ft? I assume this amount of variation must not be that critical?
Amazing video thank you . On a mini split dual zone do I need to vacuume both vapor port sides ? Or just one side
A nice video, however, I must admit that I've installed 10 mini-split units in my house, and they have lasted for years, and I've never vacuumed new air conditioners. When you do this job right (proper connections to lines), you don't need to go through a vacuum process and just purge the system. After releasing the gas from the source line, you have to bleed the system (purge process) through the valve for 8 to 10 seconds. and that's it.
how is that everything is soooo clean? :)
This is apparently for new systems. What about older systems that may need a flair fitting fixed? Would you recover refrigerate back into the unit, fix flair fittings and then do the exact same procedure? What about if the existing refrigerate is low from a leak and you fix leak, then instead of pulling the refrigerate back into unit, do you start from scratch and weigh in recommended amount of refrigerate?
Awesome video thanks! I always wondered what it meant to gas an aircon.
How do we perform the positive pressure of the line of split Ac aircon
Can you please guide if all the gas has leaked out of the system i.e. no gas in the system, then how will I vacuum the complete system and charge the refrigerant?
Will vacuuming with service ports open and system depressurized, suck the compressor oil up?
Also how to know if compressor oil is up to the level and does not need a top up?
Sir please visite my Channel
Hello and BIG thank you this video! Very appreciated.
May i ask you a question:
Im am a DIYer in Europe.
I have a small inverter mini split ac system ( daikin emura 3 7000 BTU, R32).
After a major leaking problem (now fixed) the systerm needs a a complete new refrigerant charge of r32. By the data sheet it needs 780g + 100g( for extra lengh of piping)
The system has a service port on the low pressure side only. I intend to refill the exact amount by using a scale.
Now my question: After pressure testing and pulling a vacuum on the entire system, when the r32 refrigerant is charged as liquid ( bottle upside down) on the low pressure side,
can i fill the entire amount while the system is off? Or do i need to fill a certain amount and then turn on the system to fill the rest?
Your help is much appreciated.
Best wishes from europe