My major work is larger rooftop units. We had one client who wanted us to install a mini for a computer room rack. That was one of two minis I installed in the past 16 years. The evap developed a leak, and rather than tear it apart, we got it covered under warranty for a new head. It made me glad that I don't rely on minis for a larger portion of the work.
Hi taddy, thank you so much for the video. I've recently opened up a small business on mini splits and your content really helps out with troubleshooting and knowledge. You're amazing!
We just installed 3 Mr cool heat pumps. There was no heat with errors 00 and 04 (but ac was good). We called tech support and they said there should be no threads showing when the pipes are tightened. However, this is not clear on instructions and many videos. It was a simple fix in the end. Hope this helps someone in the same situation.
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
I’m now installing my third evap in a span of 9yrs. Just like this video, my leaks are happening in the middle areas of the evap. The unit was installed in a room addition I put on our home and had new laminate flooring installed when the room was built. The first unit was a Mitsubishi and that evap coil lasted 5yrs and two weeks. Supply house gave me a new evap although it was out of warranty a couple weeks. That next Mitsubishi evap lasted three years and had a leak in the middle of the evap exactly like the first evap. The next unit was a total swap out to a Gree unit. This evap lasted 6yrs and I have a leak once again in the same area as the first two evaps. Flooring should have off gassed all the voc’s by now. There was also a room deodorizer that put a shot of deodorizer in the room every twenty minutes. I pulled the deodorizer out about three years ago but maybe the corrosion was already under way to the point I’m at now which is replacing the whole unit once again😢
Nope, I run the pressure up to 150# and checked for leaks. I also remove the flare fittings,except the ones at the condenser hookup, and braze in fittings; I also purge nitrogen through system during my brazing. Triple sweep system and evacuate down to 100microns at least.
Leaks at the brand new LINE SET, specifically from the lineset manufacturing. Cut the flares off at the outdoor unit and single flare both tubes with a high quality flare tool after reaming. Very few videos on this. Lots of videos on vacuuming and dumping, but not many on this issue once you have already dumped.
Ashame no replies. Got the same problem. Going to use R410A Refrigerant Recharge with Leak Stop and see if that holds up over time. Just not 100% sure if using the pressure of 117 to 120 psi on the pressure gauge I'm reading about with the temp on handler down to 61 degrees and fan on high is Ok method to go by. Being I don't have a recovery unit or nitrogen tank to test and recover refrigerant, if that don't work, I'll just buy another unit and do the whole install again. By now I've learned enough to install my 4th mini split. I've got the evac unit and CPS micro, and all the other tools. The recovery system is a bit pricey
during installation you are only pressurizing the indoor coil and the rating on the outdoor nameplate is probably a limit of 300 or so psig. could you be causing a leak by too much test pressure?
Dude, Nice!! I’m not a technician , but I pretend to be one. I do build large machinery dealing with pneumatics, hydraulics, electrical, welding and blah blah . I know nothing about heat pumps but my nephew has one that doesn’t appear to be functioning and he asked me to have a look. Of course I told him I can fix anything like any proud man would and soon as he left the room I grabbed my phone and here I am. He said it had been making a weird noise the last day or so louder than normal.. as of right now to meet it appears it has no life at all like this like the circuit breakers blown but it’s not but I feel I’m more confident now I seen you I seen your video, so thank you. If you get time maybe you can throw me throw me a bone or I should look first after the breaker. Where the brain of this thing must have a computer board or something to tell it what to do. does it have its own fuse a few link? Is i there life after death? Or usually once they go that’s it, not worth fixing? I’m sorry you don’t have to answer all those a lot of questions. Maybe you could just pick a couple. Thank you.
I'm glad you're trying to help that's awesome Start at the beginning with a meter I hope you get it fixed my friend. Thank you so much for watching my videos
Have a brand new LG mini split. The AC works fine but no heat. We vacuum pumped to 40 microns 3 times as per instructions. Power is 220, good voltage. Is it just missing refrigerant?
@@TaddyDigest That’s what my problem was, very low Freon , no heat… I had no time to work on it myself so I hired a friend who is HVAC specialist, charged me $ 720 to add Freon … I was shocked it he charged me $ 720 for less than an hour of work… but I got my heat 🤷♂️ Is that a normal Price for that type of service..?
@@TaddyDigest Thanks. Unfortunately, the service cost in my area is roughly 50% of the overall units. What was a happy start to my Mr. Cool will likely lead to a full replacement.
I have a Carrier 18000 2 zone mini split. Have had a CF code for awhile comes and goes. But now have P4 code no heat. Never had a problem with cooling. Thanks
Have FY code pop up on me the other day which means low refrigerant, and after doing a bubble test on flares etc and found nothing but without a nitrogen pressure test. Assume I need enough refrigerant in the system to have pressure if I'm not doing a nitrogen test. I'm going to try adding some R410A Refrigerant Recharge with Leak Stop to get enough pressure to read the psi on pressure gauge. It seem from watching a bunch of videos that I should see pressure of 117-120 on pressure gauge meaning refrigerant is good. Hope I'm right. Otherwise I'd rather get another minisplit and install myself. The amount company's around here charge is much more than me installing another mini split myself. Many time they keep coming back. Some techs I talked too in the past say it's because too many techs who work for a company don't follow procedures all the way through.
99% of my coil leaks are indoor coils . I don’t believe that the air quality is the issue but copper quality is the culprit . If that was the case then older systems would also leak as well . Old ductless r22 systems never ( I mean never leaked ) why .? Between 2012 and 2018 systems with R410a leaked more than current models do. I
I install mini splits and anytime a charge leaks out they want you to fully remove whats left and re weigh in a new charge. They dont like us adding refreigerent until the pressure seems right because the pressure varies too much on a minisplit system depending on how many heads and length of lineset you used so the pressure is never consistent and most installers are too stupid to learn all the math to accurately add in charge without weighing the whole thing in. I just use a computer program at this point to calculate the charge base on distance. But sometime i use the equation in the book in the installer manual when i dont have the comp on hand. Regardless learned some stuff from this video, always like to keep improving on my trade. Thanls for the info.
You are wrong. On minisplits and inverters. They best way is to weighing it in...Also when leak detecting an indoor unit, never have the fan running like the guy in the video had. (noob mistake)
Would it not be more cost effective for the customer to charge the customer for a replacement AHU instead of the labor cost to take a part blower off site, put together, and bring back to re-install?
I’ve got a Carrier mini-split that isn’t even two years old that is not working, so I had a service call today and it’s leaked all it’s coolant…not even two years old. I am told that the labor warranty was only for a year/parts 10 years. Tech spent over two hours trying to find the leak w/o success. Put a leak dye in and will come back in a few weeks to try and find the leak. Also was told that if I don’t keep up the twice a year service plan that it will void the warranty. I feel like I am being taken for a ride because I’m already looking at close to $1K just to diagnose a less than two year old system and haven’t even found the leak. To me it says the company is in business to sell and not stand behind their products/installation. Does this sound normal? I have 15 year old window units that I paid @ $150 that still work great and now a really expensive mini-split that is essentially a fan.
Most leaks are found in the flare connections and are due to improper installation A thousand dollars just To diagnose is pretty expensive Companies use that warranty clause as a way to no longer be liable Because what if it was due to the installation Sorry you're having the trouble hope you get it fixed for sure
@@TaddyDigest so the copper coolant lines have pin-hole leaks due to corrosion. In less then 2 years (actually was prob 16 months because the heat wasn’t working last Fall, but I have a boiler and only use for a/c). Manufacturer’s warranty is 10 years, but the coolant lines are not from Carrier, but universal, and they won’t cover them under the warranty. Labor was only one year. So they want a hefty $3300 to replace. They are “generously” giving me a 30% discount on that which takes it down to $2300 (basically jacking up the price to show a “discount”). In addition my lines are the ones that are wrapped with the white insulation that is all over the internet about causing these issues. The owner said they had the same intel and changed the lines that they use a year ago. So my system was installed with the crap lines, he admitted that they have had 4-5 systems fail in a year (had gone 30 years w/o issues) and for that very reason changed what they use. But he still won’t cover mine under warranty because the manufacturers of said lines won’t take responsibility, so he can’t recoup either. To me that says they don’t stand behind their work or product.
@TaddyDigest So the saga continues. The company agreed to replace the coolant lines and came to do that 10 days ago. When they took the old lines out, found the brass fittings that connect the coolant lines to the inside head units had also blown (I suspect this may have been the origination of the problem to begin with). They had to take out the 2 inside head units and take them back to their shop to repair. Came back the next day to put head units back in and replace the coolant lines. They were there for 5 1/2 hours because it took forever to flush and get the lines back up to charge. When they left at 8:30 at night that Thursday, both heat and a/c were working. Fast forward 2 days, it was a chilly night so wanted to take the chill off the house so turned the mini-split on rather than firing up my boiler and nothing. Head units open, close half-way and do nothing. Came back out to check it and it’s still leaking even with the new lines. They pumped it full of nitrogen and will come back in a few days to see which line is losing pressure. Questions: 1. Do you think the overall problem was probably bad flares during original installation? 2. Should I be concerned that this will be a continual problem? 3. While waiting for them to finally get here to do the fix, the one inside head unit dropped some ice out of it…is that concerning/why would that happen and should I mention it when the tech comes back out?
My outdoor connections were greasy at the end. Does that mean they leaked? I had tested the lines first and had no leaks so how did this happen when it’s still new?
We have very few minisplits in canada, and on the one that i worked i had formicary corrosion on the lineset. As I learned that foam insulation should be sealed to prevent water/air intrusion otherwise it starts leaking.
There was a particular lineset insulation manufacturer that made insulation that nearly ALWAYS caused leaks after a few years. It's a waffle-patterned white insulation. If water was allowed to sit on the inside of that insulation, it would become acidic and cause these microleaks throughout the entire lineset. Absolutely terrible, and no one knew it was an issue for a few years, so thousands and thousands of installs are ticking time bombs.
When I turn on the air con, I have it on heat, it works for about 5-10 mins then all of a sudden it just stops blowing hot air. The light is on and the flap is still down but it just stops blowing hot air. It doesnt happen every time but I usually turn it off and on again but do you know how to fix so it constantly blows air until I turn it off?
I'm not a technician but I did install my Tosot 9k BTU unit myself back in May 2024. A small amount of refrigerant leaked then I quickly closed the valves and called a technician. He said it should be fine and the unit worked great throughout the hot SoCal sun. Fast forward to today and now I want to use the heater function and it only blows cold air. Tried troubleshooting via email with Tosot and it appears I get an F0 error on the display which indicates low refrigerant. I called another tech today and the error code doesn't display but the symptoms still persist. They're coming out again on Thursday but it seems likely that this is probably going to be the issue. What do you think?
I installed a Senville dual zone and within weeks the heating is not working great as soon as cold cold weather hit, pressures and temperature at outdoor unit is good, What could it be? Senville having alot of issues lately with brand new units
Most the leaks I find are on the copper on the side of the head unit. Mostly dude to lack of maintenance. Still seems like the coils are made that bad on purpose.
Bro mine it’s set to heat but no vent movement or condenser movement just the vent opens ,no sound or anything,cabling it’s checked and cold mode it works great! Why?
What does EL 0C error code mean my mini split runs for about 20 mins and then gives me this error outside fan not spinning super fast like it used to its spinning kinda slow
I'm not sure what that code means. In order to figure out the air code and the description you would need the model and serial number and I would need to download the manual.
I have a 7 yo heat pump split system that recently stopped working, it stopped making heat. I discovered an oil spill under the heat exchanger outside. Is this safe to assume that leak is there too? We just bought the house recently and unit looks neglected. We are in snow belt. Thanks!
Hi i have an aureus mini split . I have it on heater mode . The unit that is outside has ice around it, is this normal? The inside unit doesn’t have ice only the one sitting outside.
It's normal for it to ice up this is caused by low outdoor ambient temperatures and the unit making itself colder than the outside air to gain heat from it It should Defrost
That’s what my problem was, very low Freon , no heat… I had no time to work on it myself so I hired a friend who is HVAC specialist, charged me $ 720 to add Freon … I was shocked it he charged me $ 720 for less than an hour of work… but I got my heat 🤷♂️ Is that a normal Price for that type of service..?
Mini split suck, I have it installed in my vacation house outside the US, They are good for one bedroom apartment or a studio but not for a house, You would have to have one evap for each room and you have to run refrigerant lines to every room, the total power consumption surpasses central HVAC. Central split is the way to go.
@@TaddyDigest No, it has nothing to do with luck, works fine, but if you scale it up in a bigger house it turns into a power hug, not designed for bigger houses.
Is it true that when a ac unit is low in refigerant 410a, your supposed to empty it and add new refrigerant due to a mix of two gases one being lighter than the other.
My mini split has CONTINUALLY since installing, one year later, no freon... Incompetent MF'S, they all said "we can install you a new unit", there was NO offer not effort made to take my unit into their shop and fix it... The FIRST GUY ( company ) who installed it moved out of state, had his own business, then moved 5 months after he installed it...Anyways, had to get other companies to look at it....One guy even put in some leak sealant, but that didn't work either... 5 techs have COST me 6000. I am SO pissed right now.... Wish I could have THIS GUY for my Tech...... I'm not knocking your trade, but finding COMPETENT techs appear to be few and far in between.‼️🤷♂️‼️ I want to hire a competent tech, but I have no gauge in determining "what they KNOW" or don't know... My entire issue here is the Freon leak... Freon is EXPENSIVE ! Would it be FAIR to say to the next Tech who I hire : "I want this leaked FIXED and if it leaks again, YOU owe me free freon, at no cost to me " 👈 Would that be an acceptable approach / thing to say ?
@@TaddyDigest Would it be REASONABLE / fair for me to tell the next tech that comes out : "Find this leak, fill the unit back up And if it LEAKS again, you OWE me free Freon because you didn't fix it " 👈 Would that be a reasonable thing to say?
My major work is larger rooftop units. We had one client who wanted us to install a mini for a computer room rack. That was one of two minis I installed in the past 16 years. The evap developed a leak, and rather than tear it apart, we got it covered under warranty for a new head. It made me glad that I don't rely on minis for a larger portion of the work.
Hi taddy, thank you so much for the video. I've recently opened up a small business on mini splits and your content really helps out with troubleshooting and knowledge. You're amazing!
Nice work!
Quality video…I worked through my Mini split issues because of you…many thanks
Great to hear!
Ding! Taddy never misses a leak! (minisplit leak: 90% flares)
😄 🤣 Thanks for watching and I 👀 those flares leaking 😀
We just installed 3 Mr cool heat pumps. There was no heat with errors 00 and 04 (but ac was good). We called tech support and they said there should be no threads showing when the pipes are tightened. However, this is not clear on instructions and many videos. It was a simple fix in the end. Hope this helps someone in the same situation.
This is the most informative video I have found on the tube good job and thank you!!!
Your welcome Steven
Thanks for being here
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
I’m now installing my third evap in a span of 9yrs. Just like this video, my leaks are happening in the middle areas of the evap. The unit was installed in a room addition I put on our home and had new laminate flooring installed when the room was built. The first unit was a Mitsubishi and that evap coil lasted 5yrs and two weeks. Supply house gave me a new evap although it was out of warranty a couple weeks. That next Mitsubishi evap lasted three years and had a leak in the middle of the evap exactly like the first evap. The next unit was a total swap out to a Gree unit. This evap lasted 6yrs and I have a leak once again in the same area as the first two evaps. Flooring should have off gassed all the voc’s by now. There was also a room deodorizer that put a shot of deodorizer in the room every twenty minutes. I pulled the deodorizer out about three years ago but maybe the corrosion was already under way to the point I’m at now which is replacing the whole unit once again😢
If you are testing with nitrogen above what the indoor coil is rated at during installation, could you be over pressurizing and causing the leaks?
Nope, I run the pressure up to 150# and checked for leaks. I also remove the flare fittings,except the ones at the condenser hookup, and braze in fittings; I also purge nitrogen through system during my brazing. Triple sweep system and evacuate down to 100microns at least.
Leaks at the brand new LINE SET, specifically from the lineset manufacturing. Cut the flares off at the outdoor unit and single flare both tubes with a high quality flare tool after reaming. Very few videos on this. Lots of videos on vacuuming and dumping, but not many on this issue once you have already dumped.
Why not use Easy Seal? I small leak like that would be quickly remedied...I used it here in Baltimore and never had another issue
Ashame no replies. Got the same problem. Going to use R410A Refrigerant Recharge with Leak Stop and see if that holds up over time. Just not 100% sure if using the pressure of 117 to 120 psi on the pressure gauge I'm reading about with the temp on handler down to 61 degrees and fan on high is Ok method to go by. Being I don't have a recovery unit or nitrogen tank to test and recover refrigerant, if that don't work, I'll just buy another unit and do the whole install again. By now I've learned enough to install my 4th mini split. I've got the evac unit and CPS micro, and all the other tools. The recovery system is a bit pricey
during installation you are only pressurizing the indoor coil and the rating on the outdoor nameplate is probably a limit of 300 or so psig. could you be causing a leak by too much test pressure?
Dude, Nice!! I’m not a technician , but I pretend to be one. I do build large machinery dealing with pneumatics, hydraulics, electrical, welding and blah blah . I know nothing about heat pumps but my nephew has one that doesn’t appear to be functioning and he asked me to have a look. Of course I told him I can fix anything like any proud man would and soon as he left the room I grabbed my phone and here I am. He said it had been making a weird noise the last day or so louder than normal.. as of right now to meet it appears it has no life at all like this like the circuit breakers blown but it’s not but I feel I’m more confident now I seen you I seen your video, so thank you. If you get time maybe you can throw me throw me a bone or I should look first after the breaker. Where the brain of this thing must have a computer board or something to tell it what to do. does it have its own fuse a few link? Is i there life after death? Or usually once they go that’s it, not worth fixing? I’m sorry you don’t have to answer all those a lot of questions. Maybe you could just pick a couple. Thank you.
I'm glad you're trying to help that's awesome
Start at the beginning with a meter
I hope you get it fixed my friend. Thank you so much for watching my videos
Have a brand new LG mini split. The AC works fine but no heat. We vacuum pumped to 40 microns 3 times as per instructions. Power is 220, good voltage. Is it just missing refrigerant?
I'm not sure I would need more details
@@TaddyDigest That’s what my problem was, very low Freon , no heat… I had no time to work on it myself so I hired a friend who is HVAC specialist, charged me $ 720 to add Freon … I was shocked it he charged me $ 720 for less than an hour of work… but I got my heat 🤷♂️
Is that a normal Price for that type of service..?
@@valg009 what a rip.
@@valg009 refrigerant cost money lol
@valg009 Did he fix the leak first hopefully??
I wish you were closer. I can't find a reliable HVAC tech to troubleshoot my dual zone mini-split... I'm in NC.
I wish I could be there brother to help you
@@TaddyDigest Thanks. Unfortunately, the service cost in my area is roughly 50% of the overall units. What was a happy start to my Mr. Cool will likely lead to a full replacement.
I have a Carrier 18000 2 zone mini split. Have had a CF code for awhile comes and goes. But now have P4 code no heat. Never had a problem with cooling.
Thanks
CF usually means clean filter
@@TaddyDigest filters clean on inside unit
Have FY code pop up on me the other day which means low refrigerant, and after doing a bubble test on flares etc and found nothing but without a nitrogen pressure test. Assume I need enough refrigerant in the system to have pressure if I'm not doing a nitrogen test. I'm going to try adding some R410A Refrigerant Recharge with Leak Stop to get enough pressure to read the psi on pressure gauge. It seem from watching a bunch of videos that I should see pressure of 117-120 on pressure gauge meaning refrigerant is good. Hope I'm right. Otherwise I'd rather get another minisplit and install myself. The amount company's around here charge is much more than me installing another mini split myself. Many time they keep coming back. Some techs I talked too in the past say it's because too many techs who work for a company don't follow procedures all the way through.
8:50 VOCs are eating copper tubing; what are they doing to my lungs?
VOCs don’t cause corrosion. VOCs like propylene are often used as refrigerant as an example. Organic means the molecule contains carbon/carbon chain.
I'm interested in this position very good info thank you
Thanks for the detailed video
My pleasure
Mine blows cold hair but not hot air…that wouldnt be refrigerant issue would it?
99% of my coil leaks are indoor coils . I don’t believe that the air quality is the issue but copper quality is the culprit . If that was the case then older systems would also leak as well . Old ductless r22 systems never ( I mean never leaked ) why .? Between 2012 and 2018 systems with R410a leaked more than current models do. I
I install mini splits and anytime a charge leaks out they want you to fully remove whats left and re weigh in a new charge. They dont like us adding refreigerent until the pressure seems right because the pressure varies too much on a minisplit system depending on how many heads and length of lineset you used so the pressure is never consistent and most installers are too stupid to learn all the math to accurately add in charge without weighing the whole thing in. I just use a computer program at this point to calculate the charge base on distance. But sometime i use the equation in the book in the installer manual when i dont have the comp on hand.
Regardless learned some stuff from this video, always like to keep improving on my trade. Thanls for the info.
You are wrong. On minisplits and inverters. They best way is to weighing it in...Also when leak detecting an indoor unit, never have the fan running like the guy in the video had. (noob mistake)
@@guuuuustaf that's what I said...
Can you only charge mini splits in cooling mode? Not heating mode?
Only in cooling mode
Would it not be more cost effective for the customer to charge the customer for a replacement AHU instead of the labor cost to take a part blower off site, put together, and bring back to re-install?
Out of curiosity would you have been able to use a leak seal on it?
no
Awesome video. Thank you!!!
You're welcome my friend
How many total hours are you into this for?
2 maybe 🤔
#1 location for leaks in a mini split for me is indoor coils . Poor copper quality is what I believe .
And they always make that copper as thin as physically possible
What temperature will come out at say 15 f outside
I couldn't tell you the exact because I would have to look at a chart or do a test myself.
Sorry brother
Excelente amigo 👏🏽
What is the normal coil cost outside of the warranty? Is it economical on Mini splits?
Half the price of a conventional air conditioner because of the size
Just buy a complete new head
Do you like that gauge set? Curious if it gets the job done. My shiny object are the fieldpiece but i'm sure it's overkill for DIY.
I got rid of it. It started leaking
@@TaddyDigest Thanks for saving me the headache too. Cheers
Do you always have to leave 10 feet on the line set? Would like to shorten mine because the coils don’t look good.
helps with noise and vibration
Thanks for the reply!
I’ve got a Carrier mini-split that isn’t even two years old that is not working, so I had a service call today and it’s leaked all it’s coolant…not even two years old. I am told that the labor warranty was only for a year/parts 10 years. Tech spent over two hours trying to find the leak w/o success. Put a leak dye in and will come back in a few weeks to try and find the leak. Also was told that if I don’t keep up the twice a year service plan that it will void the warranty. I feel like I am being taken for a ride because I’m already looking at close to $1K just to diagnose a less than two year old system and haven’t even found the leak. To me it says the company is in business to sell and not stand behind their products/installation. Does this sound normal? I have 15 year old window units that I paid @ $150 that still work great and now a really expensive mini-split that is essentially a fan.
Most leaks are found in the flare connections and are due to improper installation
A thousand dollars just To diagnose is pretty expensive
Companies use that warranty clause as a way to no longer be liable
Because what if it was due to the installation
Sorry you're having the trouble hope you get it fixed for sure
@@TaddyDigest so the copper coolant lines have pin-hole leaks due to corrosion. In less then 2 years (actually was prob 16 months because the heat wasn’t working last Fall, but I have a boiler and only use for a/c). Manufacturer’s warranty is 10 years, but the coolant lines are not from Carrier, but universal, and they won’t cover them under the warranty. Labor was only one year. So they want a hefty $3300 to replace. They are “generously” giving me a 30% discount on that which takes it down to $2300 (basically jacking up the price to show a “discount”). In addition my lines are the ones that are wrapped with the white insulation that is all over the internet about causing these issues. The owner said they had the same intel and changed the lines that they use a year ago. So my system was installed with the crap lines, he admitted that they have had 4-5 systems fail in a year (had gone 30 years w/o issues) and for that very reason changed what they use. But he still won’t cover mine under warranty because the manufacturers of said lines won’t take responsibility, so he can’t recoup either. To me that says they don’t stand behind their work or product.
@TaddyDigest
So the saga continues. The company agreed to replace the coolant lines and came to do that 10 days ago. When they took the old lines out, found the brass fittings that connect the coolant lines to the inside head units had also blown (I suspect this may have been the origination of the problem to begin with). They had to take out the 2 inside head units and take them back to their shop to repair. Came back the next day to put head units back in and replace the coolant lines. They were there for 5 1/2 hours because it took forever to flush and get the lines back up to charge. When they left at 8:30 at night that Thursday, both heat and a/c were working. Fast forward 2 days, it was a chilly night so wanted to take the chill off the house so turned the mini-split on rather than firing up my boiler and nothing. Head units open, close half-way and do nothing. Came back out to check it and it’s still leaking even with the new lines. They pumped it full of nitrogen and will come back in a few days to see which line is losing pressure.
Questions:
1. Do you think the overall problem was probably bad flares during original installation?
2. Should I be concerned that this will be a continual problem?
3. While waiting for them to finally get here to do the fix, the one inside head unit dropped some ice out of it…is that concerning/why would that happen and should I mention it when the tech comes back out?
Knowledgeable man
My outdoor connections were greasy at the end. Does that mean they leaked? I had tested the lines first and had no leaks so how did this happen when it’s still new?
Reverse capillary action can happen
The flare nuts, if not tightened properly can back off
We have very few minisplits in canada, and on the one that i worked i had formicary corrosion on the lineset. As I learned that foam insulation should be sealed to prevent water/air intrusion otherwise it starts leaking.
There was a particular lineset insulation manufacturer that made insulation that nearly ALWAYS caused leaks after a few years. It's a waffle-patterned white insulation. If water was allowed to sit on the inside of that insulation, it would become acidic and cause these microleaks throughout the entire lineset. Absolutely terrible, and no one knew it was an issue for a few years, so thousands and thousands of installs are ticking time bombs.
hi
i have a brand new samsung ar35, but no heat or cold air
any idea's please
thanks.
How accurate is your gauges?These new ellitech products are seems to be cheap Chinese stuff ?
My heating mode it has stopped working for two days now my apartment is freezing 🥶 I have tried everything but still no heat what can be done?
When I turn on the air con, I have it on heat, it works for about 5-10 mins then all of a sudden it just stops blowing hot air. The light is on and the flap is still down but it just stops blowing hot air. It doesnt happen every time but I usually turn it off and on again but do you know how to fix so it constantly blows air until I turn it off?
Could be a failed sensor or could be the charge. I would start there
I'm thinking it was correctly detecting refrigerant in the air coming off the inside coil, no?
I'm not a technician but I did install my Tosot 9k BTU unit myself back in May 2024. A small amount of refrigerant leaked then I quickly closed the valves and called a technician. He said it should be fine and the unit worked great throughout the hot SoCal sun. Fast forward to today and now I want to use the heater function and it only blows cold air. Tried troubleshooting via email with Tosot and it appears I get an F0 error on the display which indicates low refrigerant. I called another tech today and the error code doesn't display but the symptoms still persist. They're coming out again on Thursday but it seems likely that this is probably going to be the issue. What do you think?
Could you have sprayed the indoor coil and found the leak with the almost 300 lbs of refrigerant pressure instead of going to 500 with nitrogen?
no this was a super small leak
I installed a Senville dual zone and within weeks the heating is not working great as soon as cold cold weather hit, pressures and temperature at outdoor unit is good, What could it be? Senville having alot of issues lately with brand new units
When you say the pressure is good? What does that mean?
Suction pressure 390psi in heating mode @@TaddyDigest
I have a heat pump that needs gas as it's not heating enough in heating mode at minus 8 outside . Do I force it into cooling mode to add refrigerant?
I have a video of what you can do I will share the link.
ua-cam.com/video/GyrSxeFxScM/v-deo.htmlsi=FO_CFyCcbv9O0vKd
The reason the could leak is not VOCs... it's crappy cheaply made aluminum coils. This almost never happened when they were made of copper.
Exactly right, the freaking things made in China, hate working on the dam things.
Most the leaks I find are on the copper on the side of the head unit. Mostly dude to lack of maintenance. Still seems like the coils are made that bad on purpose.
Bro mine it’s set to heat but no vent movement or condenser movement just the vent opens ,no sound or anything,cabling it’s checked and cold mode it works great! Why?
Back in the 2000s when i started installing these units (ac only then ) the motors were very robust not today there crap
Thank you 👍
You're welcome
What will be the ideal pressure with nitrogen 12k unit pressure was 200 psi couldn't find the leak
600 psi for testing With nitrogen the flare fittings
@@TaddyDigest thank you sir
What does EL 0C error code mean my mini split runs for about 20 mins and then gives me this error outside fan not spinning super fast like it used to its spinning kinda slow
I'm not sure what that code means.
In order to figure out the air code and the description you would need the model and serial number and I would need to download the manual.
@Taddy Digest 12,000 btu Senville Leto it's not even a year old
Click the join button become a member send me an email. Then I can help you.
the senville Leto series are lowest grade. that error is low refrigerant@@diysolaradventures7894
My number one leak points are the flares.
I get that for sure
Ya think?
I have a 7 yo heat pump split system that recently stopped working, it stopped making heat. I discovered an oil spill under the heat exchanger outside. Is this safe to assume that leak is there too? We just bought the house recently and unit looks neglected. We are in snow belt. Thanks!
probably leaking
@@TaddyDigest thanks! Is there a way to test it without indoor unit? Like disconnect it, use a short line to connect flanges and pressurize it?
Lol
Hi i have an aureus mini split . I have it on heater mode . The unit that is outside has ice around it, is this normal? The inside unit doesn’t have ice only the one sitting outside.
It's normal for it to ice up this is caused by low outdoor ambient temperatures and the unit making itself colder than the outside air to gain heat from it
It should Defrost
@@TaddyDigest Thank you so much for replying and for the information, I appreciate it 🙂.
Hi teddy do you have a video how to add refrigerant to 2 zone mini split Daikin on heat mode thanks teddy
Yes absolutely
@TaddyDigest hiw can I find the video or can you share a link please
ua-cam.com/video/GyrSxeFxScM/v-deo.htmlsi=2O9JySVN4H9FNSPE
Thanks alot teddy
Wow good job
thanks crypto misfit
Mr cool 18 k ac working but heating not working not leaking
Is there a Brand that is better quality, has fewer Leaks?
That’s what my problem was, very low Freon , no heat… I had no time to work on it myself so I hired a friend who is HVAC specialist, charged me $ 720 to add Freon … I was shocked it he charged me $ 720 for less than an hour of work… but I got my heat 🤷♂️
Is that a normal Price for that type of service..?
It really depends on how. Many pounds of refrigerant he added and what he charges per Pound
Sounds kinda high to me
Mini split suck, I have it installed in my vacation house outside the US, They are good for one bedroom apartment or a studio but not for a house, You would have to have one evap for each room and you have to run refrigerant lines to every room, the total power consumption surpasses central HVAC. Central split is the way to go.
Glad you watched the video thanks for watching.
I appreciate your opinion
I'm guessing you did not have good luck with the vacation home Mini split
@@TaddyDigest No, it has nothing to do with luck, works fine, but if you scale it up in a bigger house it turns into a power hug, not designed for bigger houses.
@@Capturing-Memories That's probably because it was sized incorrectly.
$330 leak detection instrument
Welded?
Is it true that when a ac unit is low in refigerant 410a, your supposed to empty it and add new refrigerant due to a mix of two gases one being lighter than the other.
No just add refrigerant
@@TaddyDigest thanks for your answer.
Just joined
My mini split has CONTINUALLY since installing, one year later, no freon... Incompetent MF'S, they all said "we can install you a new unit", there was NO offer not effort made to take my unit into their shop and fix it... The FIRST GUY ( company ) who installed it moved out of state, had his own business, then moved 5 months after he installed it...Anyways, had to get other companies to look at it....One guy even put in some leak sealant, but that didn't work either... 5 techs have COST me 6000. I am SO pissed right now.... Wish I could have THIS GUY for my Tech......
I'm not knocking your trade, but finding COMPETENT techs appear to be few and far in between.‼️🤷♂️‼️
I want to hire a competent tech, but I have no gauge in determining "what they KNOW" or don't know... My entire issue here is the Freon leak... Freon is EXPENSIVE ! Would it be FAIR to say to the next Tech who I hire : "I want this leaked FIXED and if it leaks again, YOU owe me free freon, at no cost to me " 👈 Would that be an acceptable approach / thing to say ?
It's true it's hard to find a good tech
@@TaddyDigest
Would it be REASONABLE / fair for me to tell the next tech that comes out : "Find this leak, fill the unit back up And if it LEAKS again, you OWE me free Freon because you didn't fix it " 👈 Would that be a reasonable thing to say?
Same happening to me. Everyone wants to sell and install a new unit.
I think those LG ac units are the worse.
Would be nice if u could take it off the wall and to the shop to work on it as opposed to 10 ft high and home owner watching.
VOC as a cause for a coil under warranty sounds like a BS excuse from the manufacturing company.
You should never charge a minisplit by pressure. There are so many things wrong with this video
Make a video to show people the right way
Send me the link.I want to check it out so I can learn more
Cheap parts and installed by the non skilled. Mine is one year old, they are junk.
That leak detector is
Junk, if you can’t afford a h-10, find another profession
a h-10 what is this you speak of
It’s old school but unless you spend 5k on one, it’s the best you gonna get
Wow that's a lot of money for a leak detector
@@TaddyDigest it’s a grand, that’s too high for you, see original comment
OK got it yeah that's much better
Good video
Glad you enjoyed