My second time through the series (yes It’s a lot of hours!), but it’s extremely informative. I even appreciated the documentation video. I’m planning on rebuilding my IO360-C1C and It’s amazing what I’m learning the second time around! Thanks for the great instruction…
Maybe I missed it but Was there a reason that the Rear/top cylinder as on the stand was installed first making it difficult to see for the installation of the front/Lower cylinder on the stand?
No real reason or science. Just the way I do it. With the absence of any engine external baffling, etc. it is rather easy to access all of the cylinder positions rather equally. Thanks for watching!..
Thanks for your video. Removing the stack up of washers and nuts from the studs affects the sealant crush force on mating saddle surfaces which has the potential for the ingression of oil between the mating surfaces. If this happens, then chafing of the surfaces can happen when the engine is running over a period of time resuting in metal removal from the saddle surface(s). Then torque of the nuts on the studs will decrease, more oil will ingress between the saddle surface(s) and more wear will happen on the saddle surface(s). When installing an O ring on the cylinder base, try not to roll it on unevenly as it alters its natural 'set' from when it was manufactured. There is a tool for properly installing an O rings. You Tube for how O rings are made. Continental engines use a cylinder base sealing ring with a square cross section profile. Ensure that there is no twist when it is installed.
Liked the voice over much better! Appreciate you creating a series like this. Would like to know where you ordered the pre-assembled cylinders from as Superior does not appear to do the pre-assembly anymore. Keep it up! May need to visit (I'm in the DFW area)...
No, the Grumman's will be going away. A little too much drama on that project. However... ...We have a new barnfind coming up in a few months that should be even cooler! Stand by! Thanks for watching!
Aren't you supposed to use hold down plates when putting on cylinders? To get the connecting rod fully extended with out spinning a bearing when rotating the engine? And yes, the books call for a beam torque wrench. I fly close to the rocks.
Yes. Or equivalent. We are using the washers and nuts on the through bolts that you see me removing in lieu of hold down plates. Our new hold down plates are in final development. Thanks for watching!
The typical aircraft piston pin is free floating. The aluminum end plugs ride down the side of the cylinder barrel on a film of oil. Remember that this engine redlines at only 2700 rpm, not 6000+ rpm... Thanks for watching!
Beam torque wrenches do not go out of calibration as there are no adjustable parts. The torque rate is dependent upon the K constant of the beam. You would still want it checked by a metrology service before initial use. Thanks for watching!
I look at these engines with so many moving parts have they ever thought about using Rotary engines. I used to own 2 Mazda's and overhauled them myself they did have many more bolts but there put together like a sandwich and there moving parts are nothing compared to these engines. And after I got them together nothing ever happened to them until the end of their life about 90,000 miles. I sure miss those cars. Their bodies gave up the ghost so did not do the engines anymore.
Got a simple question: Why in your opinion, is the Aviation still using 1930's Technology when it comes to Aircraft Recips? That's other than f it ain't broke don't fix it.
Aircooled has less parts and more reliable. Engines run slower than auto engines. Production volume is very small and certification cost is very high. Very frustrating to see a lack of technology in GA. IMHO the FAA is no longer in the business of promoting aviation and has no interest other than regulation. Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed the voice over style video with all the detailed info, would really be interested to see all other aspects of aircraft maintenance as well
Glad you enjoyed it! We'll keep them coming!
My second time through the series (yes It’s a lot of hours!), but it’s extremely informative. I even appreciated the documentation video. I’m planning on rebuilding my IO360-C1C and It’s amazing what I’m learning the second time around! Thanks for the great instruction…
Glad you enjoyed it! We have some more episodes on the O360-A1A coming up as soon as some parts start returning from the shops...
This is fantastic. I’ve seen similar videos without this level of detail and the details mean everything. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it! Spread the word! More to come!
I feel the struggle at 5:45 hah. These engines are so simple, was surprised to see it use floating wrist pins. Thanks for making this set of videos.
Thanks for watching!
Nice 👍
Just bought an IO-360-A1A for my Mooney. Having it looked over now. Good video!
Thanks for watching!
Maybe I missed it but Was there a reason that the Rear/top cylinder as on the stand was installed first making it difficult to see for the installation of the front/Lower cylinder on the stand?
No real reason or science. Just the way I do it. With the absence of any engine external baffling, etc. it is rather easy to access all of the cylinder positions rather equally. Thanks for watching!..
Thanks for your video.
Removing the stack up of washers and nuts from the studs affects the sealant crush force on mating saddle surfaces which has the potential for the ingression of oil between the mating surfaces. If this happens, then chafing of the surfaces can happen when the engine is running over a period of time resuting in metal removal from the saddle surface(s). Then torque of the nuts on the studs will decrease, more oil will ingress between the saddle surface(s) and more wear will happen on the saddle surface(s).
When installing an O ring on the cylinder base, try not to roll it on unevenly as it alters its natural 'set' from when it was manufactured.
There is a tool for properly installing an O rings. You Tube for how O rings are made.
Continental engines use a cylinder base sealing ring with a square cross section profile. Ensure that there is no twist when it is installed.
@John-nc4bl - Is there a way to avoid/reduce that?
Enjoyed the video, the voice over is a lot better.
Ok thanks! I appreciate the feedback!
Liked the voice over much better! Appreciate you creating a series like this. Would like to know where you ordered the pre-assembled cylinders from as Superior does not appear to do the pre-assembly anymore. Keep it up! May need to visit (I'm in the DFW area)...
Talk to Sal or Jonathan at Sal's Cylinders (just east of Denton). Thanks for watching! New episode coming soon!
Looking great!! Can’t wait to see this thing all wrapped up! Will the barn find Grumman’s appear on the channel again?
No, the Grumman's will be going away. A little too much drama on that project. However... ...We have a new barnfind coming up in a few months that should be even cooler! Stand by! Thanks for watching!
Aren't you supposed to use hold down plates when putting on cylinders? To get the connecting rod fully extended with out spinning a bearing when rotating the engine? And yes, the books call for a beam torque wrench. I fly close to the rocks.
Yes. Or equivalent. We are using the washers and nuts on the through bolts that you see me removing in lieu of hold down plates. Our new hold down plates are in final development. Thanks for watching!
Thanks!
Thanks so much! More to come, but man, it's hot out here!...
Question: Are those piston pins free-floating? No lock washers?
Yup. No circlips or snap rings. Thanks for watching! Next episode is in the works. Just got busy!
What keeps the wrist pins from sliding out and scoring the cylinders?
Aluminum end plugs. Thanks for watching!
What stops the the piston pin from moving. Never saw you putting in any c clips.
I wonder about that also.
It just bounces off the wall of the cylinder
The typical aircraft piston pin is free floating. The aluminum end plugs ride down the side of the cylinder barrel on a film of oil. Remember that this engine redlines at only 2700 rpm, not 6000+ rpm... Thanks for watching!
heck yeah
Thanks!
Do the piston pins not have a retaining circlip ?
No. They are a floating style. Thanks for watching!
Looks like the rods are upside down , Numbers on rod should face down
What about ring gap placement?
Yes, per the manual.
The beam toque wrench is a certified one?
Beam torque wrenches do not go out of calibration as there are no adjustable parts. The torque rate is dependent upon the K constant of the beam. You would still want it checked by a metrology service before initial use. Thanks for watching!
When do you check for crankshaft endplay?
I checked for endplay prior to closing the crankcase with the new bearings installed. I'll try to include that in the next video. Thanks for watching!
I look at these engines with so many moving parts have they ever thought about using Rotary engines. I used to own 2 Mazda's and overhauled them myself they did have many more bolts but there put together like a sandwich and there moving parts are nothing compared to these engines. And after I got them together nothing ever happened to them until the end of their life about 90,000 miles. I sure miss those cars. Their bodies gave up the ghost so did not do the engines anymore.
I think Mazda is coming out with a new rotary engine car! Thanks for watching!
Got a simple question: Why in your opinion, is the Aviation still using 1930's Technology when it comes to Aircraft Recips? That's other than f it ain't broke don't fix it.
Aircooled has less parts and more reliable. Engines run slower than auto engines. Production volume is very small and certification cost is very high. Very frustrating to see a lack of technology in GA. IMHO the FAA is no longer in the business of promoting aviation and has no interest other than regulation. Thanks for watching!
Could not understand voice
Sounds ok on my end. Try closed captions. Thanks!