There's something rather Zen about watching this engine come together. It's both informative and relaxing. I have the same engine in my plane, so watching you build this one provides me with a much better understanding of mine.
Loctite 515 is an anaerobic sealant. It doesn't cure when exposed to air. The directions say to assemble immediately but you do have plenty of time. If using RTV-102 you do have to be relatively quick with assembly. For experimental applications...Loctite 518 is better suited for aluminum and Hylomar Aerograde with silk thread has seen great success. You can't find POB anymore so Lycoming is recommending Permatex #3 and thread now as one of the options. With both the Hylomar and Permatex it's only applied very thin to hold the thread in place.
The voice over is definitely better for being able to understand whats going on. It also looks like it made it easier for you to focus on what you are working on. I know when I am working on something I really like to focus on the the task at hand and not be answering a bunch of questions on what I am doing.
This was great I am a plane owner always have been a gear head. I am working towards my A&P volunteering in the shop which has been great the shop lets me work on my plane under IA supervision. Voice over was great you explained things well.
I have the 0-360 C2E, I look forward to the cylinders going on and the accessory case video !! This format is better, it lets you fast forward during your editing.
Thanks for a great video and narration. I'd like to keep following especially torqueing the through and edge bolt process. I'm a new A&P enjoying watching the process.
Hi Bill, I'm building up a 0-320E2A with new Millenium cylinders, RAM 160 conversion and Powerflow exhaust. I'm an A&P but haven't done an overhaul since 1993, so will do the overhaul with a friend. I've got all the major parts back from Aircraft Specialties and Divco. Love your series and probably won't start the build until you finish your series. Too many good pointers! There are plenty of mods and repairs to my Piper Cherokee I can entertain myself with until then. I am curious when you think the series and that 0-360 will be done. Not to hurry you of course!
Not a pilot or mechanic but enjoyed your attention to detail and respect for the importance of doing things properly-a pleasure to watch-? Ever considering wearing gloves to protect your hands from chemicals?
I’m not too concerned wearing gloves with fresh oil. Used oil is nasty and bad for you. I’ll glove up when I’m working on the dirty side of lubricants. Or painting…
Great vid of overall assembly of case halves thanks for posting, one thing that is not mentioned is the cost, its about 10k for parts (bearings, hardware, accys.) and machine work to crank/case and cylinders. Aircraft Specialty Services for steel and Divco for aluminum are some of the best machine shops. The A4K crankshafts are on backorder and also the Cont. O-200 cranks are 255 days out and about 8K new. Hope you did it right lol :)
Yes on this format. I missed seeing how the prop flange seal goes on. Could you use rubber band thru the rod end and around a cylinder stud to minimize how many things you have to watch when coming together with the case halves. Excellent videos. Thanks.
I enjoy watching you video do you every holiday in Australia I just had a prop strike with 0/320 and contemplating doing the tear down myself it’s RV9A experimental Charles Mifsud
You could find some rubber hose that fits snuggly down into the pushrod hole of the lifter then get a piece long enough to go from the first lifter round the outside of the upper block half and into the second lifter to stop it falling out. Do the same for the 3rd and 4th lifter. Then lay the cam shaft into the lower block half during assembly of block halves.
Excellent video and love the voice over. I thought I saw an overhaul a while back where the crankshaft was bolted vertically to a stand and assembled in that configuration. Pros and cons? Thanks again, this is good stuff!
Thanks for all of the excellent videos that you produce. I notice that you did not apply sealant to the center saddle parting surfaces as well as the front bearing and rear bearing saddle parting surfaces. Continental apply sealant to these areas. Fretting and wear can happen to these surfaces during engine in service time and when that happens the torque on the forward, center and rear thru bolts will decrease which will cause more engine oil to ingress on to these surfaces and more wear will take place. This is not a good situation in my estimation. I would like to read your take on this scenario.
@@HangaRatz Bill, thanks for your reply. I wonder what the reason is for issuing SI 1125 requiring that no sealant be applied to these areas, yet Continental call for it in their engines. The only reason that I can think of is if the sealant is not properly applied then sealant contamination of the crankshaft journal will happen. These centerline saddle surfaces sometimes chafe against each other with slight movement and wear down which results in thru bolt torque being lost. If the sealant is properly applied it does prevent oil ingression and if it is not applied, movement and wear can happen with engine run time. Then it is all downhill from there on.
I prefer to use the method the factory uses, which I would regard as the true “professionals” and that happens to be horizontal…. Not sure which professionals you are referring to…
Thanks for making this video. Long time automotive tech here getting interested in aviation. Is there a point before assembly where you clearanced the bearings? As you may know, in auto we plasti-gauge everything to pick out the correct bearings, is there an equivalent step that you do on these engines prior to assembly or do you just base it off of crankshaft and journal measurements? Seems like it would be a huge pain to torque case halves together and then take it back apart to check clearance.
We pretty much do it by the book. The factory does not recommend plastigage at all. We dimension everything and do the math. It's an aviation thing... Thanks for watching!
This is probably a silly question but I thought I remembered seeing somewhere that the rebuilder mounted the crank to a bench, vertically, then put each crankcase half on vertically. Would that have worked also? Great video man, lots of good info there. Thanks.
Wow really enjoying this series. I have a io-360 a1b in my LA4-200. Like the voice over. More close ups would be nice but I realize it’s a lot of work with the camera. Can the main bearing rotate out of place?
It is possible to pressure prime the engine prior to start. Depending on brand of engine priming the filter is normally not possible due to the orientation of the filter.
Couple of questions on the main bearing installation: 1) why coat the back side of the bearings, and i would have plastiguaged the crank before I lubed the mains.
Q1) why coat the back side of the bearings A1) Because the manufacturer says so. As licensed aircraft maintainers that is our guidance. Q2)i would have plastiguaged the crank before I lubed the mains A2) That would entail assembling the press fit case halves an additional cycle which is hard on the cases and the through bolts. Plastigauge would only duplicate what the previous dimensional checks already confirmed. Plastigauge is fine for assembling cars but has no business in aircraft engine overhaul. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Thanks for watching!
@@HangaRatz OK. Thanks. It's been at least 10 years since I have overhauled any A/C engines and I only did O-320s. I did them iaw the Lyc manuals and SBs. How quickly we forget.
. Hi, I am a 30-year A&P working mostly overhaul on widebody's. I am contemplating obtaining Lycoming and Continual certification and opening an overhale shop. Are the certs required and what are your thoughts of opening a shop? I enjoyed how well you kept referencing the manual. To many people don't use Manuel's.
Ok, random question. What is the wrench size of the Lycoming secret Nut. My wrench set if for Narrow deck (outie), so I want to make sure and order the correct size, for the 1 nut. Greatly appreciate your help. Thanks. Like the new video format.
Great question! The front two and rear two cylinders share a lobe. If you look closely the second and fifth lobe are a tad wider. Similar to a V-8 engine...
@@HangaRatz I like it! Nice job explaining the process. Keep up the great work. This was my first visit to your channel and I just subscribed to it. Going to poke around it tonight and see what you have been up to.
Seems simple enough. We "hang" the cam from the upper half to hold those lifters on that side of the case in place. Otherwise they would fall out. It's a little bit of a ballet... Thanks for asking!
Bill, could you put the other half of the case in the stand so the lifters, cam and crank could be settled in and just lower the "naked half of the crank (with bearing inserts) onto the half with all the compontets?
I would like the over the top camera view, this would help see the individual parts and 'giblets' * You could then see the surfaces and spanner wrench. * I would like to see a good borescope to purchase and cylinder pressure gauge. Stay happy healthy and proficient. 🌏🇦🇺
Actually it is the other way around. Ferdinand Porsche visited the Lycoming factory and the Continental factories in the late 30s when he was designing the KdF-Wagen. That’s why the VW engine is similar to the old Continental A40 and Lycoming O145. But simpler…
Yes, I understand. However, half the folks prefer it and half the folks don't. I'm stuck in the middle. I alternate music on and off on videos. Thanks for watching!
I don't do it that way. The factory doesn't do it that way. Some folks prefer that method. Whatever works best for the individual. I prefer horizontal. Thanks for watching!
There's something rather Zen about watching this engine come together. It's both informative and relaxing. I have the same engine in my plane, so watching you build this one provides me with a much better understanding of mine.
Thanks! It’s always good to know what is happening inside your engine!
Loctite 515 is an anaerobic sealant. It doesn't cure when exposed to air. The directions say to assemble immediately but you do have plenty of time. If using RTV-102 you do have to be relatively quick with assembly. For experimental applications...Loctite 518 is better suited for aluminum and Hylomar Aerograde with silk thread has seen great success. You can't find POB anymore so Lycoming is recommending Permatex #3 and thread now as one of the options. With both the Hylomar and Permatex it's only applied very thin to hold the thread in place.
No intention to build, but it’s cathartic to watch and better appreciate the orchestra. Great video. Thanks for putting it out there.
Thanks for watching!
The voice over is definitely better for being able to understand whats going on. It also looks like it made it easier for you to focus on what you are working on. I know when I am working on something I really like to focus on the the task at hand and not be answering a bunch of questions on what I am doing.
Yes, it makes it easier to work and edit. Hopefully get these to you quicker!
The new format is great!
Thank you!
Thank you for the video. I like this format a lot, very helpful.
Coolio. I appreciate the comment. Thanks for watching!
New format is great! Thanks for the series
Thanks for watching!
I have an O-360-A4A I'll be taking apart and replacing all the seals and gaskets. Really appreciate the detailed video.
Thanks for watching! New episode shortly!
Great job - super helpful. Thank you.
You're welcome! Thanks so much for watching!
A thing of beauty. I do like the color too. I like the voiceover. Thanks for the work.
Thanks!
This is pure enjoyment!
Thanks!
I like the voice over. Excellent video/presentation 🔧👍😎
Thank you so much for the comment!
This was great I am a plane owner always have been a gear head. I am working towards my A&P volunteering in the shop which has been great the shop lets me work on my plane under IA supervision. Voice over was great you explained things well.
Thanks so much!
I have the 0-360 C2E, I look forward to the cylinders going on and the accessory case video !!
This format is better, it lets you fast forward during your editing.
Thank you. Keep watching!
Thanks for a great video and narration. I'd like to keep following especially torqueing the through and edge bolt process. I'm a new A&P enjoying watching the process.
Great! I wish I had the internet and UA-cam back when I got my A&P!
Loved it! Couldn't stop watching for a second! Great video for sure!
Thank you very much!
The Lycoming Service School instructor had us use rubber bands to secure the Cam when putting the case half’s together. I enjoyed your videos.
Pretty much what ever works for you is right! Just take your time!. Thanks for watching!
You can use Orange plastic squeegees between the connecting rods and crankshaft to hold them vertical.
Excellent video. Love the format!
Thanks!
I like the video format. You do great work.
Thank you so much!
Hi Bill,
I'm building up a 0-320E2A with new Millenium cylinders, RAM 160 conversion and Powerflow exhaust. I'm an A&P but haven't done an overhaul since 1993, so will do the overhaul with a friend. I've got all the major parts back from Aircraft Specialties and Divco. Love your series and probably won't start the build until you finish your series. Too many good pointers! There are plenty of mods and repairs to my Piper Cherokee I can entertain myself with until then. I am curious when you think the series and that 0-360 will be done. Not to hurry you of course!
This engine is finished. Been real busy. Putting final wraps on next episode (cylinder installation). Life is getting in the way! Thanks for watching!
Excellent voice over format.
I like it.
Awesome, thank you!
Very much appreciated..keep up the good Job.
Thanks, will do!
Great video looking forward to nose seal install.
You and me both! I think I videoed that. If not I'll do a separate video on just that topic!
Good job, I like the way you stress the cleanliness angle and taking your time.
Thanks! Sort of like surgery!
Love the voice over format!
Thanks!
Excellent narration and format
Thanks! More to come!
Super interesting and the voice over was perfect. Fascinating content that is so forbidden for us pilots to see.
Not forbidden, just hard to get sometimes!
Great video! Thanks. You Tube has turned greedy and your video is what made them! Thanks for the hard work!
Thank you!
Not a pilot or mechanic but enjoyed your attention to detail and respect for the importance of doing things properly-a pleasure to watch-? Ever considering wearing gloves to protect your hands from chemicals?
I’m not too concerned wearing gloves with fresh oil. Used oil is nasty and bad for you. I’ll glove up when I’m working on the dirty side of lubricants. Or painting…
@@HangaRatz That MEK isn't good for skin contact either....
Very good, thank you very much for the informative video.
Thanks!
Great vid of overall assembly of case halves thanks for posting, one thing that is not mentioned is the cost, its about 10k for parts (bearings, hardware, accys.) and machine work to crank/case and cylinders. Aircraft Specialty Services for steel and Divco for aluminum are some of the best machine shops. The A4K crankshafts are on backorder and also the Cont. O-200 cranks are 255 days out and about 8K new. Hope you did it right lol :)
Yes on this format. I missed seeing how the prop flange seal goes on. Could you use rubber band thru the rod end and around a cylinder stud to minimize how many things you have to watch when coming together with the case halves. Excellent videos. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Good ol grape jelly sealant.... Anaerobic sealant, good stuff. Used for years on heavy equipment.
Good stuff. Sort of wished the aircraft engine folks adopted it earlier... Thanks for watching!
I've flown Cessna 152,172, and gliders. My dad and I used to work at Allied Signal building turbo people motors
Turbo people or turbo prop? 🤔 Thanks for watching!
Thanks I liked the voice over.
Coolio. We’ll stick with it!
good job my friend
Thank you very much!
I enjoy watching you video do you every holiday in Australia I just had a prop strike with 0/320 and contemplating doing the tear down myself it’s RV9A experimental Charles Mifsud
I would love to come to Oz! It is on my bucket list. Someday! Thanks for watching!
nice format
Thank you!
Like the voiceover!
Thanks! Trying all sorts of formats and this seems to work rather well.
You could find some rubber hose that fits snuggly down into the pushrod hole of the lifter then get a piece long enough to go from the first lifter round the outside of the upper block half and into the second lifter to stop it falling out. Do the same for the 3rd and 4th lifter. Then lay the cam shaft into the lower block half during assembly of block halves.
Lots of different ways to do it. We use the manufacturer's method in our videos whenever we can.
Excellent video and love the voice over. I thought I saw an overhaul a while back where the crankshaft was bolted vertically to a stand and assembled in that configuration. Pros and cons? Thanks again, this is good stuff!
Great point! Different folks do it different ways. I sort of go with the least chaos path. It works well for me. Thanks for watching!
I am wondering what the resistance is that is requiring you to pull the case halves together.
The case and through-studs are an interference fit. This reduces case fretting during operation. Thanks for watching!
@@HangaRatz thanks
Awesome!
Thanks!
Thanks for all of the excellent videos that you produce.
I notice that you did not apply sealant to the center saddle parting surfaces as well as the front bearing and rear bearing saddle parting surfaces. Continental apply sealant to these areas.
Fretting and wear can happen to these surfaces during engine in service time and when that happens the torque on the forward, center and rear thru bolts will decrease which will cause more engine oil to ingress on to these surfaces and more wear will take place. This is not a good situation in my estimation.
I would like to read your take on this scenario.
The manufacturer does not want any sealant on those surfaces. See Lycoming Service Instruction No. 1125. Thanks for watching!
@@HangaRatz Bill, thanks for your reply.
I wonder what the reason is for issuing SI 1125 requiring that no sealant be applied to these areas, yet Continental call for it in their engines.
The only reason that I can think of is if the sealant is not properly applied then sealant contamination of the crankshaft journal will happen.
These centerline saddle surfaces sometimes chafe against each other with slight movement and wear down which results in thru bolt torque being lost.
If the sealant is properly applied it does prevent oil ingression and if it is not applied, movement and wear can happen with engine run time. Then it is all downhill from there on.
The professionals usually mount the crank assembly vertically on an engine stand before trying to put the case halves together.
I prefer to use the method the factory uses, which I would regard as the true “professionals” and that happens to be horizontal….
Not sure which professionals you are referring to…
Love your voice-over
Thanks!
Thanks for making this video. Long time automotive tech here getting interested in aviation. Is there a point before assembly where you clearanced the bearings? As you may know, in auto we plasti-gauge everything to pick out the correct bearings, is there an equivalent step that you do on these engines prior to assembly or do you just base it off of crankshaft and journal measurements? Seems like it would be a huge pain to torque case halves together and then take it back apart to check clearance.
We pretty much do it by the book. The factory does not recommend plastigage at all. We dimension everything and do the math. It's an aviation thing... Thanks for watching!
Great video. Thanks!. Please include some closer shots if possible so we can see the work inside the case.
Will do. New series on an O360-A1A coming up!
I built a stand for air-cooled VW engines that was pretty handy.
Anything helps!
Anaerobic is always used on machined surfaces that are going to be mated together.
This is probably a silly question but I thought I remembered seeing somewhere that the rebuilder mounted the crank to a bench, vertically, then put each crankcase half on vertically. Would that have worked also? Great video man, lots of good info there. Thanks.
Some folks do it that way. The factory does it horizontal. That's the way I was taught... Thanks for watching!
How are you checking main bearing clearances? Do you assemble case halves with bearings and use a dial bore gauge? Same with rod bearings?
Yes. We do not use plastigage in aircraft engines. Thanks for watching!
Wow really enjoying this series. I have a io-360 a1b in my LA4-200.
Like the voice over. More close ups would be nice but I realize it’s a lot of work with the camera.
Can the main bearing rotate out of place?
Coolio. Main bearing is kept from rotating by dowels in the bore. Thanks for watching!
EXCELLENT ❤
Thanks!
Is it easier to assemble the engine laying down on the bench vs. with the crankshaft mounted vertically?
It is for me. Less chaos... Thanks for watching!
Is it possible to prime oil system and fill oil filter before start up? This reminds me of Volkswagen back in the day.
It is possible to pressure prime the engine prior to start. Depending on brand of engine priming the filter is normally not possible due to the orientation of the filter.
Couple of questions on the main bearing installation: 1) why coat the back side of the bearings, and i would have plastiguaged the crank before I lubed the mains.
Q1) why coat the back side of the bearings
A1) Because the manufacturer says so. As licensed aircraft maintainers that is our guidance.
Q2)i would have plastiguaged the crank before I lubed the mains
A2) That would entail assembling the press fit case halves an additional cycle which is hard on the cases and the through bolts. Plastigauge would only duplicate what the previous dimensional checks already confirmed. Plastigauge is fine for assembling cars but has no business in aircraft engine overhaul.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Thanks for watching!
@@HangaRatz OK. Thanks. It's been at least 10 years since I have overhauled any A/C engines and I only did O-320s. I did them iaw the Lyc manuals and SBs. How quickly we forget.
. Hi, I am a 30-year A&P working mostly overhaul on widebody's. I am contemplating obtaining Lycoming and Continual certification and opening an overhale shop. Are the certs required and what are your thoughts of opening a shop? I enjoyed how well you kept referencing the manual. To many people don't use Manuel's.
Do what you are good at! Find someone to apprentice under. It will help you advance faster. Thanks for watching!
Our 0-235 Tomahawk engine spun the middle bearing, we can't see why. First sign sheared forward through bolt. Dumped oil. Done 650 hours.
Done a few car engines, aero engines seem so simple.
The same but different.... Thanks for watching!
So no silk thread when you use the Loctite 515?
Yes. Page 7-16 of the Direct Drive Overhaul Manual has a note that silk thread is not used with Loctite 515. Thanks for watching!
@@HangaRatz apparently the non hardening Permatex 2 with the thread is an option.
@@HangaRatz would like to communicate with you via private message or email
Ok, random question. What is the wrench size of the Lycoming secret Nut. My wrench set if for Narrow deck (outie), so I want to make sure and order the correct size, for the 1 nut. Greatly appreciate your help. Thanks. Like the new video format.
Try this…. www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?id=6494-SET&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1
Oh, the secret nut…. 9/16” I think…
Where about are you in Texas?
North of Fort Worth
Do you guys do round motor
Not at this time. Just don't have the tooling and space right now...
I feel stupid asking this but I see 6 cam lobes but there are 8 valves. How does that work?
Great question! The front two and rear two cylinders share a lobe. If you look closely the second and fifth lobe are a tad wider. Similar to a V-8 engine...
@@HangaRatz thank you. Those must take twice the beating
No fitting and clearance check with plasti-guage?
No. We don't use plastigage on aircraft engines.
Great video! Why don’t you use a vertical stand for assembly? Not criticizing at all just curious as to your method.
Watch the next episode. I’ll explain it there! Thanks!
It's that Mopar blue???
😆 Deeper richer blue. Very nice blue actually. Thanks for watching!
@@HangaRatz I like it! Nice job explaining the process. Keep up the great work. This was my first visit to your channel and I just subscribed to it. Going to poke around it tonight and see what you have been up to.
How do I contact you for some help?
Go to main UA-cam page and the email link should be there
it's good
Thanks!
Why couldn't the cam go in the bottom half of the case instead of hanging off the wires?
What did I miss ?!
Seems simple enough. We "hang" the cam from the upper half to hold those lifters on that side of the case in place. Otherwise they would fall out. It's a little bit of a ballet... Thanks for asking!
@@HangaRatz ah! Of course. Great video.
Bill, could you put the other half of the case in the stand so the lifters, cam and crank could be settled in and just lower the "naked half of the crank (with bearing inserts) onto the half with all the compontets?
I would like the over the top camera view, this would help see the individual parts and 'giblets'
* You could then see the surfaces and spanner wrench.
* I would like to see a good borescope to purchase and cylinder pressure gauge.
Stay happy healthy and proficient.
🌏🇦🇺
Great idea. I’m working on that view. I need to build a boom to mount the camera up there. Should have it in our new space this fall. Thanks!
@@HangaRatz sounds great.
You should never put oil on the back of the main bearings !
No sound
Works when I run it. Hmmm... Thanks for watching!
Ok now
Whoo hoo!
Looks like Lycoming copied a VW bug motor. Almost identical to include the pins on the main bearings .
Actually it is the other way around. Ferdinand Porsche visited the Lycoming factory and the Continental factories in the late 30s when he was designing the KdF-Wagen. That’s why the VW engine is similar to the old Continental A40 and Lycoming O145. But simpler…
@@HangaRatz Thanks, I didn't know that !
Very interesting but much more so without the music, then the commentary can be heard.
Yes, I understand. However, half the folks prefer it and half the folks don't. I'm stuck in the middle. I alternate music on and off on videos. Thanks for watching!
4ÔÚŘ Eié Usto Thinqué Wyomings was madé in Lycombing
😲😲😲😲😨😨😨
Music is too loud
voiceover lets you concentrate on assembly plus you describe what you are doing better with voiceover i think.
Thanks for the comment!
Be Uséd Glovéd becausé oil can go threw skin because cancered
und if hav hamberger hot dogg can bé eating trace of Oils during Break-Fásts
👍👍👍👍👍
kill the music...
Shouldn't you build this engine vertically around the crankshaft?
I don't do it that way. The factory doesn't do it that way. Some folks prefer that method. Whatever works best for the individual. I prefer horizontal. Thanks for watching!