2 Types Of Vinyl Flooring | Which Is Right For Your Home?
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- Опубліковано 6 чер 2024
- Today I'm discussing the two types of vinyl floor locking systems. Watch How to Install Vinyl 👉🏼 • DIY Laminate or Vinyl ... Shop my favourite flooring install tools 👉🏼geni.us/5zDiW9 (Amazon)
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Watch How to Install Vinyl 👉🏼ua-cam.com/video/OJqk2iS_jyQ/v-deo.html
Watch Brad's @fixthisbuildthat vinyl tutorial mentioned 👉🏼ua-cam.com/video/6KEthELQfro/v-deo.html
Soo you're not a not a believer in loose lay or glue down vinyl planks? I just put loose lay vinyl in one of my apartments and have fallen in love with it. Interested to hear your thoughts
I love your honesty.
Hi Jeff, I'm a fan of your informative videos. I am a subscriber and shop at your Amazon store to support. I have engineered wood glued on slab. It has developed gaps that are 1/8th of an inch and larger. Could you please let me know how to fix it? Lots of videos are about just moving the pieces but that is not an option because my home floor is glued to the slab. Thanks for your help.❤
Trick for everyone! I find those love tap tools sometimes cause damage. Just use an off cut and set it in the joint and then tap that. Spread that energy across the entire joint without damaging the tongue and groove. And it works for both vinyl and laminate! 😊
Great tip!
ABSOLUTELY...a must!
If you don’t have a tapping block, 💯
You can also shave off one edge of a 2x4, so that it has a sharp, clean edge, and use that to tap the boards into place. I did that for my laminate flooring, and it worked great.
I was gnna say exactly this good on you fam
Thanks for the shout out, Jeff! Great explanation here of the different types of locking systems and awesome example of how they react to gaps. Really underscores the need for floor prep with drop lock.
Looking forward to the live show tomorrow, thanks for coming on. Cheers
You posted this with absolutely perfect timing. I’m redoing my mom’s basement with the Vinyl flooring and I specifically asked her to get tongue and groove flooring because I’ve had so many issues with the snap lock flooring in other basements. We live in Pennsylvania and a lot of floors are uneven so the snap lock tends to come apart. I’m only 21 so she doesn’t completely trust my judgement so this video will help back up my case! Thank you for posting these videos, they’re life savers!
Add roof shingles underneath to level gaps
Torly’s is the best luxury vinyl flooring on the market, period.
I just refloored a room with LVP after watching one of your older videos ... Cheap, easy upgrade that made the room look 2000% better. Grateful as hell for your vids Jeff.
That is awesome!
As a flooring installer for most my life I’m 59 today, installing pretty much everything over the course of my life even did hard floor sending,stain and varnish.
I got to say those vinyl products to me are much better than laminate products because of moisture issues.
But as you said they are not miraculous.
Your video is very well explained and shows an important difference is the lasting of the product.
Well done keep doing good work !!
And you approve of using a pull bar on a factory edge? Speaking of pull bars he needs to lose that mamby pamby thing and get a real one.
We've installed the Costco mohawk flooring in our rentals. Was a steep learning curve but your videos helped build confidence and tricks to handle tricky cuts (I still hate doing door jambs).
Its a 1900s house and while we had the floors raised/leveled from underneath there was still some uneveness. We're using the steico underlayment and it's working great. The floors feel really good under your feet with it with the bonus of providing a little insulation from the crawlspace.
I love the value of videos like this. So specific. I'm embarrassed to say I put vinyl flooring into a basement reno where there was too much slope in part of the basement near the entrance. The contractor totally recommended against it. I decided to do it anyway and got what I asked for. It's now starting to separate and look terrible at the place with the uneven surface after just 2 years. No one to blame but myself. Lesson learned.
The demo was good but the pep-talk at the end is what I needed to hear; "If you're a DIY'er everything you do makes money". I was gonna go with vinyl flooring but now I'm sold on tile.
Had LifeProof installed in our house about 3 years ago. 90% of the house is slab-on-grade, the other 10% is old pier and beam with standard lumber. Just recently had to have the floor in the 10% fixed because a gap appeared. The rest of the house looks great but after watching this and realizing what the real problem is, I'll likely look at replacing that 10% with the mohawk material. I'm going to keep an eye on it, but if you're right about it coming undone easier the second time, that floor will end up having a 3 year life, not 20. Live and learn, thanks for the video. Before seeing this, I figured it was just a bad joint initially and I should just put down more LifeProof to fix it. You probably saved me some time, money and frustration!
Man this guy is a little intense but I can tell he has a lot to say about all his years of knowledge and he’s speaking truth! Great informative video!
Excellent explanation. Many new homes by me are installing Vinyl even expensive houses.
Great video. I bought about 1000sqft of Lifeproof on recommendation of a friend how has installed it in his newer home. Long story short, I hired a reputable flooring company to come install it and they said they would not in good conscience install it in my older home which has multiple subflooring types done over decades of remodels and additions. Even with a 1/4in plywood overlayment, they said it would fail from uneven surfaces and floor movement of the raised foundation. Wish I had seen your video sooner but at least I have the receipt to Home Depot for the material.
Speaking from experience. I currently have LVP. I would only recommend this for basement or if you have a really flat surface. Can you imagine placing these thin boards over your sub floor. The product work great if your floor is concrete.
So good to know. I couldn't believe how uneven my floors are. Between that and the fact that nothing seems to be actually square, doing the floor has been harder than I thought. But I'm doing it MYSELF! Yay, me!
You rock Rayna!
How did it turn out?
I’m trying and it’s not working out for me. Actually, I’m trying to relay the pieces that my landlord laid and they’re not snapped in and there’s gaps everywhere. It’s driving me nuts and I can’t stand it. We have lots of new boxes of the flooring and I’m honestly debating just redoing it, but I’m afraid of the mess I might make :/
Thanks for posting this video clip! I’m glad I bought LifeProof with rigid core 7mm layer thickness and 22 mils wear tear layer.
I love your honesty. And thank you for explaining the differences.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the information, this helps a lot & glad I used the ridged core style locking system for our flooring unknowingly. :)
Oh, thank goodness! I picked the right flooring. I'm going to be honest I had no idea about what you're pointing out in this video. We almost got the lifeproof, but we decided at the last minute to get the ridged core. Mainly because of the look and style of the ridged core. It actually had texture and looked more like real wood, in our opinion. Now I will say installing the ridged core wasn't fun at all! It was difficult and I cussed the whole time. However, it's been almost 3 years, and we haven't had any gap issues that I've seen others have. I was relieved to find out now that we made the better choice! Thanks 😊 this was a good video!
the secret is to connect the whole length before slipping it into the groove. Cheers! video coming soon!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY All fun and games until you're alone at the job site and the lenght is like 6 meters per row all at once, what a nightmare that was.
on this job i was doing a 50' run. Cheers!
Where were you able to buy the rigid core floor? I'm looking but I can't find it.
@@luilocolombia "tiles for less" carries it. If you don't have a local store than just Google "ridged core max 22" and you should have a local distributor. 😀
This was excellent I needed that information. We don't want to spend 15,000 on hard wood floors. I'm looking for the second best thing for our home. Definitely need the tongue and groove style. Thanks I'm a new fan of the channel.
I have been watching this channel for quite some time now and enjoyed it tremendously. We are building a two story home and need to install the floors. Upstairs are a easy decision, they will be hard or engineered wood. Downstairs are more complicated. It has a open kitchen which transits to the big open family room area without any boundaries in between. We are very concerned about possible water damage from the kitchen and have a hard time to decide the floor material, wood, vinyl or tile, etc. Any opinion will be highly appreciated.
I put down LV plank in the basement. It was originally cheap vinyl tile 9x9s. Put down LV plank right over it. It has the padding under so it doesn’t feel like you’re walking on concrete. So far so good.
Great job Bill. no worries with that! Cheers!
I wish I had the information in the video three years ago. I had a vinyl floor installed three years ago. (my wife insisted that we have it professionally installed) They are now showing spots where they appear to be cupping, I think it is just the joint is expanding and failing. As you mentioned in the video, the issue is with the current floor. I am near Cleveland, Ohio. My house was built in 1954. The subfloor is 1x6 planking covered by tongue and grove hardwood flooring. The kitchen has two layers of tile flooring. We had the vinyl installed throughout the living room, hall and kitchen. It is the drop lock type floor. The installer used leveler on the transition between the rooms and two surfaces. We have had the flooring company out and they have filed a claim with the manufacturer. I did some research on the product, and per the manufacturing, it can be installed floating or glued. If I had known I would have requested the tongue and groove or insisted that it be glued
I just installed spc flooring and love it!
Good to hear!
Thank you! I was thinking about vinyl but changing direction hardwood
Thanks for your honesty
I enjoy most of these videos. They’ve helped me with a few projects around the house that I had no experience with. But as a professional flooring installer, this video was hard to watch. The message was great. I always try and talk the homeowner out of drop lock. “Angle lock” is a much better product. But you never use a pull bar to secure planks in the field. It’s meant for places a tapping block can’t reach (around walls) you will definitely damage most locking mechanisms by doing it that way. Theres actually a much easier way to install the angle lock.. try starting with the butt joint first. There is a reason it’s called “angle lock”. It’s set in on an angle. but it takes a little time getting comfortable doing it that way.
Exactly. With butt joint engaged the side long joint usually can be engaged by lifting and pulling together.
Yeah he's doing it totally wrong. And whenever I use a pull bar close to a wall on a factory edge I still put a small scrap piece on the edge so it doesn't get damaged
I used Stain master luxury Vinyl planks years ago and regret using it ,was expensive and scratched so easy.Even with thresholds it separated at some points.I learned my lesson,so doing it on the stairs I used nail gun to secure planks and caps. I definitely recommend if you're flipping house looks good and it's easy to install.
Not surprised it scratched easy, Stainmaster LVP has an abysmal 12mil wear layer. Jeff says don't consider anything lower than 20mil, personally, I'd up that to 30mil
Have you tried Select Surfaces 24 hr Spill defense? We installed it in 2 rooms so far. A fellow customer said they installed it 5 yrs ago with 2 labradors and grandkids and says it still looks great❤
Glad you explained things truthfully. I'm going to stick with the hardwood floor.
I use the 'love tap' to lock but I do it from a standing position so that I can stand on the other piece to keep it from moving.
I LOVED your video!!!!!!! I have a 53 year old 2-story farm house (we live on a 15 acre farm) we are rough on floors! We currently have travertine 18X18 square tiles and I HATE THEM. They are COLD, they are HARD, they hurt my feet and the grout is always dirty. I really want to put new floors in...being that we are soooo rough on floors-kids, animals, even goats and alpacas sometimes in the house and that we are on a raised foundation, we have variance in the grade and level-can we put the tongue and groove vinyl plank over the tile? Do we have to remove the tile? should we put hardwood-thoughts ideas, suggestions are most WELCOME
This was an amazing video. Thank you very much. I learned so much.
Jeff, as a manufacturer who owns a factory that makes spc flooring, I would like to point out something. You can NOT hammer the short side on these drop lock systems. To learn about drop lock installation, I suggest people check out I4F, who is lincensor of drop lock technology. If the plank has not locked properly, hammering it from the other side will only damage that joint. "love tap" should only be done on the long sides. Uniclic locking system is the only locking system that can be "love tapped" on both sides short and long sides because all 4 sides of this locking system is angle type, not drop-down type. However in this video, you have not brought any to showcase.
Also, the very top of spc flooring is coated with UV later. This is the layer that provides critical scratch and stain protection to your floor. There are many different types of UV oil, some have much better performance than others.
This video's purpose was to show two different locking systems, but the two products you are comparing have the same drop lock system. Doesn't give your viewers much confidence if you can't tell which locking systems you are working with.
I don't know what you're looking at but those are definitely two different locking systems on the short joint, he just mistakenly calls the second one a drop lock when he starts to put it down. However, the way he does it is not how I do it. I start by angling in the end joint and then do the long joint. And I would never use that pull bar on a factory edge, get or make a proper tapping block.
All I know is I've been in homes with vinyl flooring that look similar to the eye. In one home though I remember the sound of the floor slapping when i walked on it. Like I was walking on sheets of masonite. I assume it may have been warped but it didn't look like it. Other homes almost looked like wood engineered flooring. I think there may be a lot to the quality of vinyl flooring and choosing a good product over what just meets the eye.
I could really use a video on how to bring vinyl flooring through doorways without removing the casing. Showing how to lay it each way to continue into another room
working on that right now!
😅Do read the warrenty on vinal floring , after a year and a half mine started to come apart. . called the manafacture and found out if you have a hospital bed, a wheelchair or a office rolling chair it voids the warrenty. And we have all three
There should be an EP on whether to choose wpc (wood polymer/plastic composite) or spc (stone plastic composite). I notice SPC is cheaper but cold on concrete
I've installed a lot of LifeProof floors and as long as it's installed properly and as Jeff says your floors aren't all wanky it'll hold up..
love the channel..
I have installed a lot of lifeproof floors and find them to be pretty good overall
only in certain situations
Torly's all the way, love their double locking system
Great as usual. Many thanks. Quick question is what are the two different systems called so I know what to look for. I need the better locking solution since I am installing on a floor that was built in 1928. Thanks again.
I installed some super cheap vinal plank flooring over an uneven basement floor. Bought some super inexpensive flooring and a super cheap pad/moisture barrior. It wasn't perfect and places where I had problems because of the floor slopes like he showes I used expanding sprayfoam to fill in the voids and glue the floor in place. Over each problem spot I injected the foam and then just put a heavy weight to hold the planks down so it would dry flat with the joints locked. I doubt it held up but it gave the basement a clean enough look for my family to sell the place quickly. I dont recomend the inexpensive stuff, and deffinatly if you do use it you have to have a dead flat floor. The glue with some "Great Stuff" did work but I bet after a little while that stuff broke down and made the floor have crunchies underfoot. I woulden't have left it if it wasent just quick cosmetic refresh on a basement utility room. It was for sure lipstick on a pig but better looking than painting the floor or the peel and stick tiles you can get which would have been the only other as cheap/ quick options.
If you're skimping like I did on a project like this skimp all the way. The trash products that get returned a bunch by the big box stores are always getting rotated out of inventory. Get the clearance they practically give out the items they are discontinuing.
Just finishing with a product called Aqua Guard Premium over concrete. The floor was previously ground flat for laminate that was 3.5 mm thick which got destroyed by my gf’s unhousetrained dogs. The underlayment is 6 mil plastic moisture barrier + rubber backing on the planks. Finally figured out that I had to slightly lift the previous plank and get the ends lined and partially clicked in place, and there is a little notch in one corner of the drop locks. The planks are very stiff and 12 mm thick which are on the same plane as existing porcelain tile transition. I doubt they could be snapped, I put a 6.5 inch wood blade in a wet tile saw I had from glass backsplash install and ran it dry. I didn’t want to rent a table/miter saw cuz I’m very slow and would cost more than the material. Could have bought a saw and then sell it, I suppose. Got the planks on closeout for $1.98 sf, I don’t think it is sold anymore, just the 10 mm thick version now. Ripping the last row of planks on the tile saw was an adventure, I messed it up and had to use one short piece of scrap cut wider to patch up the wall gap that kept growing to 1” at the end. Getting the end joints to close was a bear, I used a tapping block and pro length puller hitting them hard with a 4 pound sledge. The puller I engaged over the plank lip, not on the locking ledge. Chipped the wear layer off on the end of one row, but next to wall so it won’t show. And I learned that 1/8 inch gap, the width of the locking ledge, is plenty next to the wall in my small house.
A couple more tips: if there is a flooring supply store like Prosol in your area, you can find plastic tapping blocks for your love taps that won’t damage the floor like metal ones do. It’s best practice on butt joints to start tapping from the joint out towards the open tongue to avoid a bit of buckling at the joint which can happen if you’re a bit too tight.
Butt joint
I have one wave in my subfloor. Can you show us how to fix it ourselves without sanding the subfloor? Love your channel!
Great video and ovrrall channel content! Can you recommend a vinyl flooring type or brand for a small upstairs full bathroom? Talking about a moist environment from daily showers. Older home and planning on making sure we lay down a moisture barrier too. Thanks
Also make sure you clean the floor... our house's kitchen has some sort of vinyl flooring and it seems like 2 or 3 small pebbles were left under it and the joints are cracking apart on those spots. I think it's tongue and groove style like you mentioned. :( Not sure how to repair it. They also didn't do any underlayment, I think it's installed right on the concrete because it makes snap crackle noises all around when walking on it.
@Jeff what’s the best flooring for a concrete slab? And underlayment? Thank you!!
Tanks Jeff. Love your videos. Is Vinyl a good alternative for an older house where radiators are a primary source of heat? I'm concerned about a plastic type product might succumb to the heat of the feet which come in contact with the flooring
Thank you for this. Question about vinyl. Do you have any experience with with pianos and vinyl flooring? Do the planks stay locked ok?
Hi Jeff, glad i caught this video, my wife picked out a 4.2 click flooring and now after seeing your few videos on vinyl planking im very worried about installing this in our new 13x16 new construction mud room on the back of our farm house, we have the Schluter heated floor system going in, im guessing you would suggest a thicker product?, and a tongue n grove locking system to avoid seem problems on this project?, from Niagara Canada
ohh, I was expecting to see loose-lay vinyl to be compared with the locking planks. Would be nice to see a follow-up with a 5mm vinyl plank that is most commonly glued down in commercial applications!
Great video and what type of vinyl or stratified would you install on cement based radiant floor? Thanks in advance.
Now I wish I would’ve got the 20 mil wear layer instead of the 12 for my house 😂but it’s only 1k sq ft and just me with no pets, so I think it will hold up well. Thanks for the vid Jeff! You’re truly a Jack of all trades.
I've been installing these laminate floors since they came out. On the tongue and groove it's easier to install the short side first, then click in the length side
very true!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIYthen why didn't you do that?
Hi Jeff, my wife and I have a 70’s mobile trailer and the floors are all uneven due to trailer floor issues. We have repaired it to the best that we can, but the main floor area is a bit uneven. We are looking at replacing the old flooring which was carpeting throughout most of the areas.
What’s your thoughts on a new type that we came across in the local building store called “ Lay Flat vinyl floor. It’s a product that you can on uneven floors and you glued down to the subfloor.
"Now, no one really intends to give you a warranty..."
Wise words
right. warranty is fancy talk for the run around
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY In my last flooring attempt I tried to get explicit, written information on what the warranty covers and not as it was general conditions and lack of clarity about what a repair would be (whole carpet, part, etc). In this case it was medium-high end carpet but they wouldn't give me anything beyond the generic info from the manufacturer and suggested I go elsewhere if I didn't like it. My take away is that any flooring warranty is mostly a joke unless you are willing to take legal action (which will probably cost you more than just replacing the flooring yourself).
I installed the Noble Oak vinyl plank flooring from the Home Decorators Collection in a older house bathroom with a new sub floor and it curled up like bacon with a week. It had too much give side to side and after i trying to level off the floor perfectly i gave up and installed linoleum instead.
There are more options. My Mannington plank floor is glued to the subfloor. The adhesive is a special type that allows you to peel up a plank and stick a new one in it's place with no additional adhesive. I chose this over a floating install for several reasons, but this is the one I like the most. I've got a spare box of planks in the basement, and if a plank gets damaged I can easily replace it.
I've been installing floors for 5 decades and the only vinyl plank I would ever install, it is so much easier, faster, to install than click floor. The adhesive is called pressure sensitive, great stuff
Thank you for the video, very helpful. I was wondering when you mentioned the sunroom, we have a radiant floor cemented basement. We are DiYing finishing it. We need it to handle moisture. What product? Or is tile the only way? We were hoping to stay in our wheelhouse, and avoid nailing because of the pipes and cement, glueing due to moisture or grouting (no experience at it) . We have used vinyl tongue and groove with cork back before, but will it be okay with that direct heat?
Hello, I am fixing up an old house from the 50's. I was wondering should i use laminate or Vinyl flooring. I was leaning towards laminate flooring. Do you have any suggestions. Also what thickness should I use on the laminate? I was thinking around 10mm. This will be a rental unit. Great vids, really helpful.
Hey Jeff, Merry Christmas! So for Christmas we decided to pull the trigger on a new flooring. So in the recent years the floors seem to have gotten better in quality. What about the underpayment layers or built in ones? Do you still recommend laying one regardless if they have one built in? Thanks
Great video. With the drop lock, doesn’t the next plank help to stabilise the smaller joint though? So it doesn’t lift on uneven sub-floor.
Went with engineered wood on my 1943 reno, because my subfloors weren't perfectly flat and I could staple them down. Soon learned that it is very sensitive to moisure, aka cat urine. It will cup on the edges. I have to set weights on it while it dries to flatten it out. Wood, tile or LVP next time.
I needed this one! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Jeff, Can you recommend the best vinyl plank for stairs. Thanks.
An interesting thing that I figured out regarding lifeproof, some (not sure how much) is re-branded MSI. What I tracked down for sure is on the engineered hardwood version. This is useful as MSI has more matching transitions, stair noses, stair treads etc than what HD sells. Seems the best way to tell is that HD uses the same image on their site as MSI does (as in the exact same picture down to the knots in the wood etc).
LOL. they are both buying the vinyl from the same chinese supplier!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY While I'm sure it is coming out of the same factories as half the other similar products, Home Depot's questions section on the page actually had really old comments from MSI answering questions and also linking to the MSI products on the HD website (this is how I got started tracking down the MSI version).
@@daviddeflyer8671home depot is listed as a supplier on the msi site
I have watched many of your videos and appreciate all the info you provide. In this video you talk about the ends coming undone and I get that BUT once you put the next plank on it locks the joint between the two boards making it secure and will not come apart very easily. Isn't that correct?
Such valuable advice. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I have a slab on grade... that was poured in the 60s... and is so uneven that before I used some leveler there were gaps approaching an inch over 8 foot spans. At one point along the wall I noticed a crack.. so I figured.. open the crack up a bit with a chisel to get a good surface to bond with and apply some patch, right? Apparently there was some sort of underlayment that they poured the concrete over.. probably a moisture barrier of some sort... and at that point where the crack had occurred it had bunched up really high so the concrete at that point was less than 1/2 inch thick... no wonder it cracked... sheesh. I literally don't know how they poured that slab so poorly, unless they were actively trying to. It certainly has made my vinyl floor journey... interesting.
Hi Jeff, what’s your opinion of the glued in vinyl planks?
Cheers
THANKS FOR THIS INFORMATION
Hey Jeff, first time home buyer here who does not have a lot of DIY experience besides helping my dad out when I was younger. Is there really a difference between luxury vinyl plank and regular vinyl? Or is that just a marketing scheme?
Love this guy!
What's your views on loose lay vinyl flooring with no glue no tape just loose lay for an uneven plywood floor. Wavy from the floor Joyce but unable to fill to level.
We have Lifeproof floors in the living and dining room. So happy I found SmartDrop floors for the rest of the house. Love this floor more. Amazing to work with, fully waterproof too. It is exactly what the name implies-SmartDrop. You literally drop the floor in place. Glue around the outer to stop it from moving.
Hello, love to watch your videos. I have a 2 stories home in the US (texas) is Vinyl ok to install on second floor (upstairs)? Thanks
Been looking to install new vinyl flooring in kitchen as previous owner used regular laminate which clearly not appropriate as it's lifting up. Will have to rewatch some ofvur previous videos as not familiar with the construction terms used. It's a 1970's home so floors aren't level.
I was so confused when you said a 20 mil wear layer! In Australia we call millimetres "mils" and 20 millimetres is just over 3/4in! After a quick google, 20 mil is approx 0.51 millimetres. Love from Australia 🦘
Excellent video
What do you recommend for a poured basement with radiant heat? We rebuilt after a house fire and decided on a 9’ poured basement and put in radiant before pouring the slab. It’s 28x58 so it’s a big project after putting in the energy walls. We are in Northern Wisconsin so we opted for heated slab. Thanks!
thank you, if i have to choose between vinyl or tile, which one i should choose? regarding sunny room?
Great info.
This gives me some peace of mind. My buddy owns a bar and wants me to do LVP and I've been extremely worried about the 100 year old building and the amount of traffic.. he knows he will get 10 years max out of it. But I've put in cheap trash for friends that they purchased and I told myself never again will I do something like that for anyone.
in that environment take a look into the vinyl plank that glues in place with no locking joints. that way you can peel up a damaged board and replace it. many come with a 10 or 15 year commercial warranty as well.
@HomeRenoVisionDIY that's what's currently in place. I was trying to avoid all the work tearing it out because I'm doing this as a favor lol
Do you have a similar video on hardwood products? If not might I recommend one.
Which locking system would be good to lay over tile ? Thanks
Do you have a video on waterproof laminate
We own a 1964 quad level home. We are looking to replace the flooring in the lower level, which is on a slab. One of the rooms will (springtime) become damp. We have placed a dehumidifier there and it has helped reduce the.moisture. What type of flooring do you recommend
Hey, Jeff! I live in an apartment on the second floor above a garage and we wanted to install some vinyl floors. Our subfloor is concrete and I’m assuming it’s level but maybe not a smooth surface. I picked up some lifeproof high traffic 22mil LVP with the underlayment pre-attached. Would the alternative you show in this video be a better choice for us? Also wondering if I need to purchase a separate roll of underlayment? I purchased floor muffler LVP, was that the right choice? In another video you said that the pre-attached underlayment isn’t good enough but I’m wondering if that applies to the concrete too? Last question, from around 3pm to 6pm the sun shines through our front window and onto a large portion of our current carpets. We live in San Francisco where it doesn’t get much higher than 65 most of the year. Should we not choose the lifeproof 22mil if it’s too soft to be in the sun for a few hours a day? Thanks so much!
Every box of flooring will have instructions which tells you what the tolerance of the subfloor must be. If the subfloor is within the tolerance set by the manufacturer, then droplock shouldnt be coming apart - if they do, then it would almost certainly be manufacturing defect and will likely eventually occur to many of the joins from that particular batch.
As for the melting or heat damage aspect, it should also be stated on the instructions whether that product is suitable for use with underfloor heating.
From what I've seen, warping damage from sunlight seems to be most prevalent with the thinner products of 4mm and 4.5mm. Ive also noticed that its frequently in homes that allow for prolonged sunlight exposure, or where the climate isnt well maintained, such as holiday homes.
Personally, I haven't seen it as a problem that would make it only susceptible to vinyl and hybrid products, given that timber and laminate are also prone to expansion problems in these conditions.
Hello, wanted to know if it’s best to put down a vapor barrier before installing LVP flooring if the foundation is concrete?
Which joints are most water-tight? Which product is best for replacing a board
Would you recommend one over the other for wear and tear? Is one system better at keeping water (mop and pet messes) from destroying the floors? I am looking into re doing floors that have a lot of wear and tear from dogs and washing multiple times a day.
What do you recommend for a slab floor in a damp environment with possibility of flooding. Can this floor be glued down to slab
Thank you
Do you have a video on recommendations of LVT?
Can you do a comparison on LVP vs. Engeenered Hardwood wide plank?
are there any flooring store recommendations that you have in the GTA
If I go with the Mohawk flooring for my basement, installed over the DriCore subfloor panels, do I need an additional underlayment between the wood and the LVP? I watch a lot of your videos and I’m having trouble keeping the different recommendations straight (I know they evolve and change over time).