Check out my other flooring project videos: bit.ly/2uFkWp6 15 Must Have Vinyl Flooring Tools - ua-cam.com/video/wjCNNy6Ul4o/v-deo.html 20 Best Tips for Vinyl Plank Installation - ua-cam.com/video/v-Uxeh3EmWI/v-deo.html Vinyl Plank Flooring in a BATHROOM - ua-cam.com/video/LrdWvtgOEFg/v-deo.html BEST Tools to Cut Vinyl Plank Flooring - ua-cam.com/video/V7aeMUsULVU/v-deo.html Installing Luxury Vinyl Tile with REAL Grout - ua-cam.com/video/FNzlA4bYUqs/v-deo.html And don't forget to SUBSCRIBE: bit.ly/FTBT-youtube
Fix This Build That 1. Use a floor scrapper that has a pole and a blade, this way you can get more surface area done opposed to the way you did. Dip , it’s called deflection, Another mistake, thinset u will result in problems, this will crack and separate over time since u did not use a primer prior to flashing, and used the wrong product. Ardex feather finish or cmp prepstar is appropriate Another mistake never use a full board in a starter row
Fix This Build That u also need to choose boards with different variances so u don’t have a pattern which looks fake or less natural. Open few boxes up and spread to cherry pick ur boards
Fix This Build That I started in the flooring business at 16 and have been every facet of this business from warehouse to install to sales to management now ownership and over 20 years!
I love that you’re showing “What NOT to do” because people really only learn from mistakes, so this is a great method of teaching 🙏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 thank you, I hope more people take a page from your book 💯🔥🙏🏼❤️✊🏼
I used this same home flooring. From home depot. It is amazing 5 years later and it still looks like day 1 when it gets mopped. I even used it in my living room that is 20x24, no random gaps, no weird pop outs at all.
@djirate052380 🤔swifter wet formula be leaving a slight film on my 7yo laminate floors. I have better results with my "spin mop" which allows me to choose how wet I want the mop head. Trust me, it be too dry sometimes 😂 my floors were made for heavy traffic (grands) and swifter not gonna cut the dirt like a hot mop will
Finally an educational video on how to install Vinyl plank flooring...Too many people on youtube are subject matter experts that just cannot contain their excitement, and felt the need to share that with the world.
Doing floating snap flooring for the first time. I'm a contractor and the customer is fully aware this is my first time. I've done plenty of tile, and so far it's been a snap! (Horrible pun, I know) any diy people out there don't be intimidated, you got this. This video perfectly explains and goes over everything you need to know. I really wanted to let you know your video is extremely spot on, like always. I also wanted to let you and your subscribers know about a trim pulling tool from Goldblatt that a friend introduced me to that is far superior to the Trim Puller. I ordered it off Amazon for just over $20 US, and it's just amazing. Anybody buying a trim pulling tool, you've gotta try this one! I swear I'm not some Goldblatt troll, just love tools and wanted to drop a line and let anybody know it exists. Again, great video thanks for sharing the info. Have a great day everyone!
Yes! Trim puller didn't break even 1 baseboard (aside from the fact that whoever installed it was overzealous with the nail gun). I also used it to easily pry up the tack board.
I'm bidding on my first major job, replacing the entire subfloor, laying lvp etc. AND its just me myself and I. I've done a lot of floors but for some reason I'm nervous about this
Thanks. Just ordered a whole kit from Amazon. I needed these and with the cost along with your recommendation, I hope to use this to nail my two flooring jobs. Thanks, and God Bless.
As a certified journeymen Floorlayer- I say good job on this one1 Its a great guide for a DIY and hits a lot of points others miss. I watch so many you tube videos on DIY flooring advice and see so many things missed and weak and even wrong advice given.. but you guys nailed this one. Good job.
Can you help me!!! I am using this product (Life Proof vinyl planks) in an old small office in an old building where I work, approximately 8x8. Unfortunately, the existing floor consists of a carpet, (which I started to pull up because I was told it was concrete underneath the carpet), but when pulling the carpet up I found out it was glued down to thin square tiles (I think vinyl) which were under the carpet. In some places where there was a lot of glue/adhesive, pieces of square tiles broke and came up stuck the back of the rug. Of course where those pieces broke, I noticed under the layer of tile that the carpet was glued to are old cork tiles. So since the vinyl plank floors are a floating floor and there is adhesive still on the top of the tiles, as well as the small areas where the vinyl tiles broke there is cork tiles, I was told I can't place the new vinyl planks unless everything comes out, which I can't do, or... I was told I could use a thin layer of something like floor leveler to create a new layer over the tiles and cork tiles that are showing. My million dollar question is can I use a concrete self leveling material on the cork tiles? and if so, will that layer of self leveling material be suitable for the vinyl planks to rest on when expanding/contracting due to fluctuating temperatures?
Placement of the transition (under the door) was correct, I've seen too many jobs where the installers didn't, looks like trash. Glad he stressed avoiding short pieces, mentioned the story-stick measuring method, etc. An excellent guide. I'm not a master, I've only put in somewhere around 150 floors, but agree with all tips. Only add-on I have is the cutting. Doesn't work for ripping, but I use a vinyl plank cutter (Brutus) to cut to length. Cost is about $130 at Lowes, so not great if you're doing just one or two floors, but faster and easier than any other method I have found. Also no little vinyl chip dust you get with saws that gets everywhere. Though I still use a utility knife and/or jigsaw for circumferences and detail notches.
Mike R. I'm a retired worn out tile guy. I've installed everything except carpet in over 30 years. The last 15 years I specialized in "hard tile". My advise, buy an 8" floor scraper, one that has a razor cutting edge. Get everything up, everything. Any leveling compound will not like a spongy surface, aka cork. Other things to consider is the types of adhesive used in the old flooring material. If it was water based then the moisture from the leveling compound may cause it to break down releasing the old flooring. Remember, surface prep is about 75% of the job. Short cutting to save time and sweat/blisters may cause product failure and the loss of any warranty. Be safe and good luck
@@miker6402 prep is 74% of the job. Take the time to remove All of the old flooring. See Donny’s response. We had carpet over linoleum and the linoleum backing stuck to the particle board sub floor. Lots of scraping and pulling of nails and staples out of the whole house. A big challenge, but in the end. Fabulous new look.
When you said we dont need fancy tools I had to mute it so my wife didn’t hear...shhh. How do you think guys get new tools? We tell them it’s a necessity to do the project. 😂
I'm a wifey with a tool collection and didn't like the "don't need fancy tools" comment either. How do I now justify getting the hand tool to remove the baseboards!? :)
You saved money installing yourself, so make it easy for you and buy extra tools to do the job. And still save money. Than paying someone to do for you.
I love that you gave different options to cutting the floor because I’m one of those people that is a DIYer but that does not have a lot of fancy tool thank you so much and this is very helpful
I LOVE THIS FLOORING! I had five dogs due to new marriage and cats. I had a dog door and lots of mud and dirt coming in. I did not install myself but had Lowes install. I had the first floor of the house totally covered with this, 1,500 sq. ft. I lived with this floor for 13 Yrs. Before downsizing. It still looked fabulous! The people who bought the house loved it Too, because they had kids AND dogs! Best decorating/practical decision I’ve ever made. Really takes a beating & EASY CARE!
This video is a must-watch for anyone new to installing vinyl plank flooring! The detailed explanations of common mistakes, like not acclimating the planks and improper subfloor preparation, are incredibly valuable. Your practical tips will definitely help me avoid costly errors and achieve a professional-looking finish. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
one more protip -- before you start first row, measure out the width of your room and divide by the width of the planks to avoid a very narrow last set of planks. Note, i'm referring to width and not the length as the length was mentioned in the video.
@@taureanantoine1164 If calculations show you will end up with a 1inch width sliver at the end, you can chop off 2inch off the top row to make up for it.
I just did a whole bedroom with no experience except from UA-cam and I’m watching that after the fact. Still got 3 more rooms to do so thank you for the tips brother!
If you're working in a newer home that hasn't had any sort of settling and the floor is dead-on level through the entire room, removing the baseboard would be okay. However, if you're working on an older home that has some sloping here and there, leaving the baseboard on and hiding the expansion gap with quarter round is the best way to go (IMO). Why? Because when a floor has some sloping, let's say where it dips down in the middle from one side just a little bit and then comes back up on the other side. If you install a baseboard over the flooring, you'll see a a wider gap in the middle between the board and the floor where it'll be tight on the ends. This gap occurs because you can't bend the baseboard with the sagging slope of the floor. Leaving the baseboard there will eliminate any hills or valleys in the floor. You could try to use self-leveling underlayment, but sometimes it's too large of an area and would require more than it's worth, especially if in a house where it still moves a little bit year over year.... as it would still produce that gap latter on down the road. Just my opinion.
With regards to what my comment pertains to, it doesn't really matter to differentiate between raised foundations vs. concrete slabs... the point I was making was regards to sub-flooring that isn't level, regardless if it's raised foundation or concrete slab. While concrete slabs would give more stability and less likely-hood of floor sag, it's not 100% fool proof. You can still have slab cracks that can cause some sagging over time. Even raised foundations will typically be level for quite a while before you see sagging, if any, over a longer period of time. This is why I prefixed my entire comment about working in new homes being okay for removing the baseboards.
@@Hiddukel1 ive never known or seen concrete slabs sag over time thats why it cracks it doesnt sag. were i have seen raised foundations being its wood and with time may sag
never have i came across a dead on level floor and lowering baseboard yea you can but there will be a lip or a line were the top of the baseboard was at from the caulking that isnt easy to remove which is noticable also filling were the subfloor is low. wood subfloor moves whats gonna keep that floor leveling compound from cracking and releasing from the wood subfloor and making noises everytime its walked on. how thick can you lay that floor leveling compound did you use any primer on the subfloor was all the dust off of it to create a good bond.couldnt you sand down any high spots and avoid the concrete based filler on a wood subfloor that moves to avoid any problems you were pointing out mistakes and i was wondering about some i didnt see on your 10
@@Hiddukel1 when removing screws that missed the joist shouldnt you have screwed them into the joist instead of throwing it out and not have it screwed and if he missed there how many other screws were missed did you check the rest of the room your install is only as good as your prep.
I have found over the years that using planks with the underlayment built onto the back is a big let down. We usually use the underlayment made of recycled tires with built in vapor barrier, that gives a much more sound deadening effect, and it is firmer and more comfortable to walk on, just make sure you get planks with no underlayment already installed. Also, you might have to put down 3 mil vapor barrier first if your underlayment has none. We always remove the baseboards, I too prefer to slide the wood planks under where the baseboard will be, so that it can expand under the drywall. This provides you with some good buffer for error when you have wavy walls, but you still need to hide the gap. For concrete and wood floor dips, we use a self leveler mortar, which when mixed pours down like pancake batter, very liquid and loose, and it finds its own level. We just coax it into place and make sure it is flush with the rest of the floor.
Vapor barrier on a ground slab will result in a saturated concrete floor if you live in a humid climate. I have torn out laminate floors and was shocked at how wet the slab was. So wet it had to dry out for more than a week with dehumidifiers running. Not only does it create a double vapor barrier, moisture cannot escape, it brings in fresh moist air (to condensate) every time you walk on a spot that is not perfectly flat. No sub floor is perfect. Also grinding the floor (concrete) is my preferred method to level. No set up time, no risk of product failure. Floor leveler only for severe dips.
@@carlmccoy662 exactly!! Even on wood when the manufacturer demands you lay down plastic sheets before install, man I tell ya the floors we've pulled up because the plastic wont allow the crawl space to breathe upwards so the floor rots. I wouldn't recommend plastic at all but that voids the warranty. I highly recommend product with attached pad because the pad stops just short of the edges and while the plank itself is highly waterproof, it allows air flow so any humidity can escape upwards
you made some very good points. Regarding the base molding removing for the vinyl flooring to go underneath thereby creating a cleaner look without the use of the shoe molding.....that's fine, but by doing that you make it more difficult to later replace a piece that might get damaged. One of the benefits to the floating floor is to be able to replace pieces if need be with ease. By going under the base molding, one would have to remove the molding to create room for separation?
I have always hated quarter round, so I vote for taking the extra to remove & re-install, or upgrade the baseboards. If you are going to re-install, take a moment to label each on the rear side to avoid confusion when re-installing them. I am also a proponent of priming & painting the baseboards prior to installing them. You will still need to fill the holes where the finish nails have been sunken, but it is worth the extra time to have the extra clean lines where the baseboards meet the wall. Oftentimes I find I don’t need to caulk the space ...allowing an even cleaner line to be had. There are situations were this isn’t possible...mainly where the wall color is lighter than the baseboards. I quite often prefer a lighter wall color with a deeper trim. It emphasizes the trim work but can also really frame out the wall color & make it pop. Brian @ clever solutions finishing DFW Metroplex
In my house, caulking is a must seeing as nothing seems to be straight, including the walls LOL caulking makes everything look amazing. I agree with priming, caulking and painting. A much nicer, cleaner finish.
When you reinstalled the base board at the end of the installation, I don’t see how that changed the large gap between the lower vinyl plank and the bottom of the base board. Did you install the base board lower? If so, that means you would have to repaint the wall, no?
Yeah, they will lower the baseboard down to the finished floor level. Which means repainting the walls...I'd rather install quarter round. Quarter round also has more flex in it to follow the dips and bumps in the floor. Baseboard has a harder time doing that.
I plan on removing the baseboards as I am painting my walls also. This will allow me to use a roller at the bottom and I don't have to worry about using a brush to trim over all the baseboards
I've been watching these kind of videos and it's amazing how many tips I've learned. I rent too but I've applied the tips to other things. This past weekend I went to help my family with some remodeling and was able to accomplish tasks that surprised me.
My first time installing this in one of my rooms , mistakes , I didn’t remove the staples from the carpet install before, didn’t remove the baseboards . It still looks good and feels good I’ve had no issues with it but obviously there’s little bumps here and there but now I know what to do for next time! Don’t be scared to try things on your own people !
I didn't remove the baseboards either. The staples had to come out. The best tools out there for removing staples are a wrecking claw and floor scraper. Otherwise you are on your hands and knees pulling them out with pliers.
I’m 17, in college, and trying to finally finish my room now that I have my own money. I currently have a plywood (sub)floor and no trim. This video is massively helpful and I’m super appreciative of all of the simple explanations. 🙏
I recently used these tips to make an install of lifeproof flooring in my sisters bathroom so much easier and without any issues. Thanks for doing the video !
Excellent video - thanks! I usually take the opportunity to upgrade the baseboards to something taller / nicer. This is especially helpful if you're going from carpet to plank flooring because otherwise you're going to have some painting to do if you put the original baseboards back on.
Great video, very helpful. I would take the baseboards off before doing the flooring as well. A lot less of a headache, can also give them a quick coat of paint to clean them up while they're off if need be, much easier.
I've been researching for weeks on what I want to do for flooring for my basement and settled on vinyl plank. This step by step installation helps greatly! You got another subscriber and keep up the good work! Thanks man!
If you find it hard to see your pencil marks for cut lines on dark surfaces, try putting blue painters tape on the dark surface and draw the cut lines on the blue tape. I also put blue painter's tape on the foot of my jig saw so I don't scratch the surface of whatever I'm cutting with my jig saw.
Great job. I mostly use a barrel grip jigsaw for 90 percent of my cuts , cutting from the bottom of the vinyl flooring , so you are cutting with the saw upside down . Very easy to see your lines , plus no tear out and no chance of marring the flooring. Takes a little getting used to , but for each their own .
Thanks I'm going to attempt the same thing in my house, however we're taking the baseboards off to sand and repaint them (house was built in 2003). I totally agree that the extra effort on the baseboards makes for a cleaner look!
Yes...! Bought a 30 yr old house with multiple paint-by-mop coats. Took the nice thick old school baseboards off and dragged them on the concrete driveway for starters to save sandpaper. People come over and think the house is newer than it is because of the clean paint lines with contrasting moldings. Had to clean up paint gobs around a lot of outlets and switches, too. The horror!
We ended up having to fill in a low spot like that and used self leveling concrete. After about a year, you can hear it crunching when you walk on it. It's great.
you always need to screw in the subfloor before you apply the self leveling compound. Even if it looks like it is screwed in, throw more screws in there. If, however your OSB subfloor is delaminating, then you will need to replace it all together.
Great video Brad, I am actually starting this same project in my daughter's bedroom and this video is very helpful. I love how you broke every step down and showed the pitfalls to avoid!! Thank you again for the great project videos!!
maybe not the safest way but if you are experienced enough you can raise one side of the material keeping it against the fence cince ur only using 48" light pieces its easy enough.. great video and always follow manufacturer instructions (no underlayment needed)
I’ve done almost my entire 4 bedroom house. I always remove the trim and put down new trim. I like the look of 1/4 round on the trim so I also add that. Thanks for the tips.
The whole point of removing the baseboard is so you don’t have to install 1/4 round. Seeing 1/4 round installed is typically a red flag that the install wasn’t done professionally. But to reach their own.
Did you mean "shoe molding" instead of quarter round? Shoe molding extends out 5/8" from baseboard, where standard quarter round is 3/4" x 3/4". Shoe molding looks good to me, but the 3/4" quarter round looks like your covering up a bad install in my opinion. I had lumber liquidators install real hardwood on the majority of my first floor, they had a few areas that the shoe molding would not cover, I made them fix those areas before I signed off on job, to avoid the quarter round in some areas.
@@bt7482 Or the homeowner didn't want the painters to come out and recaulk and paint the baseboard. The baseboard goes up before the floor is most cases. Floor guys are the last on the job because we need the whole floor to be clear
If your miter saw can’t cut the whole width, raise the planks by putting a piece or two of mdf or plywood on the miter saw bed. A 2x4 also works. There’s the added bonus of extending your saw table.
I just did the same type of install using Mohawk from Lowe’s. It required .25 inch expansion gap. I left the baseboards on and covered the .25 inch with quarter round. I learned from my mistakes and will learn from them when I start another room. Nice video
Flooring guy here. First mistake, using tile ADHESIVE as a floor leveling compound. Not sure how old this video is, but probably by now, the flex between the joists on that subfloor have started cracking that tile adhesive, soon it will start to crunch underfoot when it’s walked on. Number two, when you cut the carpet at the door to install flooring n the bedroom, you should have installed a piece of tack strip across the doorway under the carpet to mechanically hold it in place, without it the carpet will loosen over time and develop a wrinkle close to the door in the carpeted area.
Canonjac I use a combination of sanding high areas and leveling with a Portland cement based floor leveling compound such as Ardex or Mapei floor leveler in conjunction with a latex primer to adhere the leveler to the subfloor. Make sure the osb is screwed tight to the floor joists or trusses before leveling. Allow at least 24 hours after pouring before installing any floor covering. i.e. carpet, vinyl etc.
do you need subfloor primer if the floor is concrete? im trying to get new floor for small storage next to the kitchen. It's only about 4x8 size. I also have adhesive tile (marble design or whatever) to cover on top of the plywood. The instruction of that tile tells me to apply the primer, but I do not feel it is neccessary for small storage.
Thanks so much for making this look so easy! I’m very much a newbie when it comes to home projects but, cannot afford to professionally have the floor redone in a room I rent out. The carpet was thrashed from my previous tenant and I really was struggling with the cost to replace it.. that, and I hate carpet!Anyhow, I opted for the vinyl flooring instead. I really have no clue what I am getting myself into but, you have given me some confidence after watching several of your videos so this is my initial thank you. I’ll comment again with photos once I am finished. I don’t have any fancy cutting tools so fingers crossed I can “score and snap” like a pro! Wish me luck! Haha 😅
LOOKS GREAT and PERFECT! I think with right tools and listening to your tutorials beginners can pull this off instead of paying expensive contractors. Thanks man!
"Expensive contractors" is the best joke I've heard all day! I install flooring for a living people that say we're Expensive must know everything in the world and don't pay anybody to do anything for them. Speaking for my company we charge a fair rate for the task at hand.
Thank you! Doing this for the first time and appreciate the nuances of actual installation, complete with mistakes. This will definitely help me not make the same mistakes and waste time and money! Very helpful!
Well done on many parts, opting out of quarter round/shoe moulding leaves an unsightly gap at the top of the baseboards in this case. Leaving you with a choice between a repaint or a taller base. Other than that, undercut the j bead at the closet in the same way you did the door. Bonus points if you also cut the corner bead at the back. (Probably can't do either with the hand saw option) very decent instruction all in all!
I thought the same thing about the baseboard having a gap with the wall paint. And noticed they didn't reinstall the baseboards for the video. That would've been another mistake, I guess.
ooh, ooh. I really like how they ensured a straight cut using the jigsaw kept in line with the straight edge clamped down on both ends of the sawhorse table. Cool beans!!!
This was super helpful. I like your straight to the point, no nonsense approach to filming the video. Seeing Copper a few times was a cute bonus too. Thank you so much!
Wow!! Thank you for such a well produced video! I loved seeing you un-do the floor to fix an issue, I feel empowered to do the job and it’ll be ok if I make a mistake! I also loved the digital drawing of moving the floor- WOW did that help my brain. Fab video!
Mistake 11 - be careful of color variations by box in addition to pattern variations. Different boxes may be different lots and could be slightly lighter or darker than other boxes. This will be very noticeable if several lighter/darker planks and near each other, spread them out and not very noticeable. Mistake 12 - shoe molding is the correct term, quarter round vertical and horizontal dimensions are the same. Shoe molding is taller than it is wide and is the correct profile to use for floors.
I would add mistake 14 using pliers to remove staples use a shovel or scraper much faster and easier on the back. Mistake 15 using a prybar to remove tack stripes again use a spade shovel and save your back. ( i know i just did room the hard way and my body was not happy)
Great video! This type of flooring was easy for me to install, I think most people could do it... only problem was my legs weren’t used to the kneeling and bending and I hurt for about a week afterwards, but it was worth it
Apparently if a thick resilient underlayment is used with the lifeproof vinyl flooring, it would allow the planks to flex too much when pressure is placed on it and possibly causing damage to the click lock groove joints.
thank you i bought all the materials and someone wanted to charge $800 to install it, but your video shows that is very easy, Im saving my self $800 thank you!!
You're lucky you were charged $800. I was charged $2000, including getting rid of my carpet, and that was a discount if I allowed them to repaint inside of the house. I'm in need of painting and replacing the carpets upstairs.
Nice! 👍 You may have been able to cross cut full width by putting scrap piece of wood under plank to raise up and use maximum blade diameter of miter saw.
4 years after you posted this video, and the same flooring is still selling every day. 😎 A buddy & I are putting one of these floors in next week, and this helped. Thanx!
Seeing an install without a quarter round is definitely a sign of a pro/enthusiast install. The only time I might look past it is if you've got some really nice built-up baseboards where the quarter round looks appropriate and not just an afterthought.
I had an old house with built in wood baseboard trim so in that room I did use quarter round but it turned out really nice. In the bathroom I pulled the trim and it was super clean looking after I was done. Definitely would say remove the trim if the option is there!
Pros use shoe molding unless the homeowner wants to go with a larger base or the base is very low to the ground in the first place. Removing base that is caulked to a wall can cause all kind of ugly when the base is put back on lower than it originally was. If you do opt to take the baseboards off, then you have to very carefully cut it off so it doesn't rip any of the sheetrock paper and then you have to clean off all the caulking and repaint the wall before putting the baseboard back on.
What a great video! Thank you so much for some important reminders for those of us DIY'ers who don't do this kind of thing very often. The use of the multi tool and the way you spaced the edges under the door jams and trim where needed is going to come in so handy as well as many of the other tips like the *Warranty! Thank you for the reminder to be mindful of the contract!
While you are doing a subfloor fastener check this is a good time to do a subfloor creak check, if the home is 15-20+ years old, take a good walk around and inspect for creak noises and fix by adding screws to spots in the subfloor (in line with the joists of course)
Thank you for that utility knife tip for cutting the flooring!! My husband and I just bought our first fixer upper on a thiiiiiin budget. There's no way we're buying a giant saw yet and the carpet needs to go ASAP!!
I like the "lack of fancy tools shouldn't hold you back from this" line. I need to repair damaged boards and feeling a I can do this on my own feel. No Slumlord required!
@@jackhaugh4198 Which walls. A on the baseboards then write A on the wall which it came from. Write B on the next baseboard and B on the wall what you came from and go throughout the alphabet.
I recommend using a 10 foot straight edge or at least an 8 foot one to make sure sub floor is within spec for install. Usually for vinyl it is 3/16 over a 10 foot span. Very important for warranty on the install.
He used a six foot level in the video. I only added the comment because it was a great video , but I feel the rule of flatness is critical in a vinyl install. The first thing a manufacturer does when they come to a job site is check that rule. If the floor has any humps or dips more then 3/16 the warranty will be void and called installer error.
@@flooringeverything8260 yup 8 foot is the way to go but some floors require 10 foot to 3/16 of uneven surface but the smallest radius to 3/16 is usually at least 8 feet never seen the warranty uneven measure radius at 6 foot so him using the 6 foot isn't going to give you the measurement you need
I always liked to use 30lb roofing felt to raise low areas. Use your 6 ft level and a razor knife to cut single or multiple layers. No need to attach or wait to set up.
That might invalidate the warranty though, in this particular case, since it's apparently not supposed to have an underlayment. I wouldn't want to risk giving them a 'get out'...
@@WebbyWunda really though, what are the chances of using the warranty? If there are problems with the boards, you'd see it when doing the install and not use them. What is realistically going to go wrong with the flooring AFTER it's installed that would require the warranty?
@@zzz7zzz9 once it is down you own it. No company is going to do squat for you then. The most you're going to get is the run around if you try for any warranty then. I mean let's be real here.
@@zzz7zzz9 Warranty notwithstanding, thinking about why they would void it if underlayment is used is what I found curious. The only reason they would is if it causes damage by allowing the vinyl planks to flex excessively when walked on, whether due to an unlevel floor or a thick underlayment with a lot of give to it. While looking at pieces in the store they seem like they could take a lot, when heavy localized force is put on an unsupported joint, it might crack. Regardless of whether it's for warranty concerns or for longest life installation, it should be kept in mind.
@@wingerrrrrrrrr companies, with anything, are always looking for ways to NOT give warranty. That's why they list specific do's and dont's. True, the felt would not hurt anything, but it would be enough of an excuse for them to void. But, like previously mentioned, the warranty would only realistically be for bad product in the box. Pretty much applying the product voids the warranty.
As others have mentioned, leave the baseboard and use shoe molding. it's more flexible than baseboard and you'll have less gaps between the bottom of the molding and the flooring. Shoe molding is used with most hard floor installs.
Sensible spending rules apply. Get the budget tools on first pass. then if you use it a lot, splurge on the good stuff. If not, then eh, you spent the minimum amount to get the job done
Thanks for the explanation to some of the issues. My landlord said she put down the vinyl plank flooring in the kitchen 2 years ago, and it is failing. She used underlayment, but the vinyl looks like that was appropriate. I think the issue is they failed to level the floor underneath, as they went over oak flooring.
When I did this, I pulled out three new boxes and dealt them onto a harbor freight 4wheel furniture dolly; that way I could roll my new pieces wherever I wanted. Great video thank you!
Before you lay the floor, you should put touch up paint along where the top of the baseboard is going to go back. The basboard will sit lower on the vynel than carpit, leaving a strip of u painted and cualking behind, recomend stripping the excess cualking off the wall, and painting before floor install
Great video! Thanks for sharing, yes I agree I take the trim off the wall makes it much easier to work, then have the opportunity to change trim design or like my wife does repaint with neutral color to match..
I installed laminate flooring in my house last month and we did the whole thing in less than three days. Smaller place sure, but once we got the systems down and ironed out the flow it couldn’t have been easier. We sourced the laminate flooring for free from a person nearby who wanted it gone from their shed which saved us hundreds of dollars. Couldn’t be happier
I would have liked to see how you hid the old latex caulking joint that sealed the top of the baseboards to the walls. The new baseboard height is now lower than it was before exposing a good 1/4 to a 1/2 inch of old caulking and unprimed/unpainted wall. I've been in the business for 40 years, take the next video all the way to the end of the project. Many DIYer's on here that need advice on every stage including the re-installation of the baseboards and the requisite finishing thereafter.
The easiest thing for him to have done would be to scrape it flush with some type of putty knife tool, replace with taller baseboard, and recaulk. It costs a little more money, but is much quicker.
I made every single one of those mistakes too... 🙄 Lol It was a fun experience though and I figured it out. I had a super bad dip in our floor too and had to use EZ Level to correct the problem. Very nice video! Thank you! 😊
I was in the floor business most of my life. Yes, try not to void the manufacturer warranty that come with anything you purchase, however...realize that most flooring warranties aren't worth the paper on which they're printed. Most are documents that shield the floor manufacturer from claims and many are just marketing tools, as they are ineffective at prompting a manufacturer to do what's right when a product they engineered does not perform even when installed to recommended guidelines.
Glenn Sohm yes sir, I’m in the flooring business aswell an have installed well over 100,000 square feet of click an I couldn’t agree more, the warranty’s are all bs, they want the floors to be within 1/8 of an inch over ten feet yet it seem nobody knows how to work a power trowel these days.. even if they are on the kind ya sit on lol if your near Ontario send me a PM
Also at the same time...I am sure the manufacturer doesn’t want a DIY person to use liquid nails under it because some poor shmuck at Home Depot said it works good for that type of flooring
Check out my other flooring project videos: bit.ly/2uFkWp6
15 Must Have Vinyl Flooring Tools - ua-cam.com/video/wjCNNy6Ul4o/v-deo.html
20 Best Tips for Vinyl Plank Installation - ua-cam.com/video/v-Uxeh3EmWI/v-deo.html
Vinyl Plank Flooring in a BATHROOM - ua-cam.com/video/LrdWvtgOEFg/v-deo.html
BEST Tools to Cut Vinyl Plank Flooring - ua-cam.com/video/V7aeMUsULVU/v-deo.html
Installing Luxury Vinyl Tile with REAL Grout - ua-cam.com/video/FNzlA4bYUqs/v-deo.html
And don't forget to SUBSCRIBE: bit.ly/FTBT-youtube
Fix This Build That I’m 13 an we found when laying the floor in that removing the skirting was the way to go
Fix This Build That 1. Use a floor scrapper that has a pole and a blade, this way you can get more surface area done opposed to the way you did.
Dip , it’s called deflection,
Another mistake, thinset u will result in problems, this will crack and separate over time since u did not use a primer prior to flashing, and used the wrong product. Ardex feather finish or cmp prepstar is appropriate
Another mistake never use a full board in a starter row
Fix This Build That u also need to choose boards with different variances so u don’t have a pattern which looks fake or less natural. Open few boxes up and spread to cherry pick ur boards
Fix This Build That I started in the flooring business at 16 and have been every facet of this business from warehouse to install to sales to management now ownership and over 20 years!
Fix This Build That my crew would of installed that room in 2 hours start to finish lol
I love that you’re showing “What NOT to do” because people really only learn from mistakes, so this is a great method of teaching 🙏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 thank you, I hope more people take a page from your book 💯🔥🙏🏼❤️✊🏼
this is the first time you've seen someone explain common mistakes in a how-to video? Pretty standard and ubiquitous.
no matter what age they are, young or old, ladies response to a job well done always brings a smile to ones head. And a sense of accomplishment.
Only if you have a lady to show it to lol.
I used this same home flooring. From home depot. It is amazing 5 years later and it still looks like day 1 when it gets mopped. I even used it in my living room that is 20x24, no random gaps, no weird pop outs at all.
Should NEVER EVER mop any vinyl planks because if water seeps into cracks you end up with a mold infestation. Swiffer is recommended.
@djirate052380 🤔swifter wet formula be leaving a slight film on my 7yo laminate floors. I have better results with my "spin mop" which allows me to choose how wet I want the mop head. Trust me, it be too dry sometimes 😂 my floors were made for heavy traffic (grands) and swifter not gonna cut the dirt like a hot mop will
@@4evrcaligirl899 just saying....we replace black molded floors all the time. Be careful...can make you really sick
Hi did you worry about uneven floors.
@@djirate052380does a mold resistant underlay help?
This guy provided more information than the manufacturer did. His video was a big help.
Finally an educational video on how to install Vinyl plank flooring...Too many people on youtube are subject matter experts that just cannot contain their excitement, and felt the need to share that with the world.
Doing floating snap flooring for the first time. I'm a contractor and the customer is fully aware this is my first time. I've done plenty of tile, and so far it's been a snap! (Horrible pun, I know) any diy people out there don't be intimidated, you got this. This video perfectly explains and goes over everything you need to know. I really wanted to let you know your video is extremely spot on, like always. I also wanted to let you and your subscribers know about a trim pulling tool from Goldblatt that a friend introduced me to that is far superior to the Trim Puller. I ordered it off Amazon for just over $20 US, and it's just amazing. Anybody buying a trim pulling tool, you've gotta try this one! I swear I'm not some Goldblatt troll, just love tools and wanted to drop a line and let anybody know it exists. Again, great video thanks for sharing the info. Have a great day everyone!
Yes! Trim puller didn't break even 1 baseboard (aside from the fact that whoever installed it was overzealous with the nail gun). I also used it to easily pry up the tack board.
I'm bidding on my first major job, replacing the entire subfloor, laying lvp etc. AND its just me myself and I. I've done a lot of floors but for some reason I'm nervous about this
How did the job go?@@FinznFowl82
Thanks. Just ordered a whole kit from Amazon. I needed these and with the cost along with your recommendation, I hope to use this to nail my two flooring jobs. Thanks, and God Bless.
As a certified journeymen Floorlayer- I say good job on this one1 Its a great guide for a DIY and hits a lot of points others miss. I watch so many you tube videos on DIY flooring advice and see so many things missed and weak and even wrong advice given.. but you guys nailed this one. Good job.
Can you help me!!! I am using this product (Life Proof vinyl planks) in an old small office in an old building where I work, approximately 8x8. Unfortunately, the existing floor consists of a carpet, (which I started to pull up because I was told it was concrete underneath the carpet), but when pulling the carpet up I found out it was glued down to thin square tiles (I think vinyl) which were under the carpet. In some places where there was a lot of glue/adhesive, pieces of square tiles broke and came up stuck the back of the rug. Of course where those pieces broke, I noticed under the layer of tile that the carpet was glued to are old cork tiles. So since the vinyl plank floors are a floating floor and there is adhesive still on the top of the tiles, as well as the small areas where the vinyl tiles broke there is cork tiles, I was told I can't place the new vinyl planks unless everything comes out, which I can't do, or...
I was told I could use a thin layer of something like floor leveler to create a new layer over the tiles and cork tiles that are showing.
My million dollar question is can I use a concrete self leveling material on the cork tiles? and if so, will that layer of self leveling material be suitable for the vinyl planks to rest on when expanding/contracting due to fluctuating temperatures?
Placement of the transition (under the door) was correct, I've seen too many jobs where the installers didn't, looks like trash. Glad he stressed avoiding short pieces, mentioned the story-stick measuring method, etc.
An excellent guide. I'm not a master, I've only put in somewhere around 150 floors, but agree with all tips.
Only add-on I have is the cutting. Doesn't work for ripping, but I use a vinyl plank cutter (Brutus) to cut to length. Cost is about $130 at Lowes, so not great if you're doing just one or two floors, but faster and easier than any other method I have found. Also no little vinyl chip dust you get with saws that gets everywhere. Though I still use a utility knife and/or jigsaw for circumferences and detail notches.
Mike R. I'm a retired worn out tile guy. I've installed everything except carpet in over 30 years. The last 15 years I specialized in "hard tile". My advise, buy an 8" floor scraper, one that has a razor cutting edge. Get everything up, everything. Any leveling compound will not like a spongy surface, aka cork. Other things to consider is the types of adhesive used in the old flooring material. If it was water based then the moisture from the leveling compound may cause it to break down releasing the old flooring.
Remember, surface prep is about 75% of the job. Short cutting to save time and sweat/blisters may cause product failure and the loss of any warranty.
Be safe and good luck
Ply wood subfloor over existing floor drum sander to lower the high spots and level flow for the low spots.
@@miker6402 prep is 74% of the job. Take the time to remove All of the old flooring. See Donny’s response. We had carpet over linoleum and the linoleum backing stuck to the particle board sub floor. Lots of scraping and pulling of nails and staples out of the whole house. A big challenge, but in the end. Fabulous new look.
I love that you make mistakes along the way then show how to fix. Other videos don’t show their mistakes at all. Thanks
This is the only video I can find that shows how to fix uneven flooring on a second floor. Thank you very much. I'm gonna give this a go!
When you said we dont need fancy tools I had to mute it so my wife didn’t hear...shhh. How do you think guys get new tools? We tell them it’s a necessity to do the project. 😂
Yep. Speaking of which....
🤫🤭😇
I'm a wifey with a tool collection and didn't like the "don't need fancy tools" comment either. How do I now justify getting the hand tool to remove the baseboards!? :)
You saved money installing yourself, so make it easy for you and buy extra tools to do the job. And still save money. Than paying someone to do for you.
@matanuska high I'm telling your wife!😲
I love that you gave different options to cutting the floor because I’m one of those people that is a DIYer but that does not have a lot of fancy tool thank you so much and this is very helpful
I LOVE THIS FLOORING! I had five dogs due to new marriage and cats. I had a dog door and lots of mud and dirt coming in. I did not install myself but had Lowes install. I had the first floor of the house totally covered with this, 1,500 sq. ft. I lived with this floor for 13 Yrs. Before downsizing. It still looked fabulous!
The people who bought the house loved it Too, because they had kids AND dogs!
Best decorating/practical decision I’ve ever made. Really takes a beating & EASY CARE!
When removing the tack strip save some carpet pad to roll them up in
And I read this AFTER I threw the padding out. 😔
Ill be doing that from now on
Finbar Mathews
Excellent tip ! 👏👏👏👏🇬🇧
Yup !
that's awesome advice thanks....
Requiring Natalie's sweat equity and your kindness to Copper are as valuable as all the other great things you show. Thanks for the post.
This video is a must-watch for anyone new to installing vinyl plank flooring! The detailed explanations of common mistakes, like not acclimating the planks and improper subfloor preparation, are incredibly valuable. Your practical tips will definitely help me avoid costly errors and achieve a professional-looking finish. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Great tips! I like how you showed how to fix mistakes too...makes me feel assured I can salvage mine when I try this soon!
one more protip -- before you start first row, measure out the width of your room and divide by the width of the planks to avoid a very narrow last set of planks. Note, i'm referring to width and not the length as the length was mentioned in the video.
How would this change anything? Wouldn’t you still have to cut the last plank to fit the width of the room?
@@taureanantoine1164 If calculations show you will end up with a 1inch width sliver at the end, you can chop off 2inch off the top row to make up for it.
Just get on with the job...
Nah thats unnecessary
Yes, I agree with Wally, that was the one thing left out for that professional look.
I just did a whole bedroom with no experience except from UA-cam and I’m watching that after the fact. Still got 3 more rooms to do so thank you for the tips brother!
If you're working in a newer home that hasn't had any sort of settling and the floor is dead-on level through the entire room, removing the baseboard would be okay. However, if you're working on an older home that has some sloping here and there, leaving the baseboard on and hiding the expansion gap with quarter round is the best way to go (IMO). Why? Because when a floor has some sloping, let's say where it dips down in the middle from one side just a little bit and then comes back up on the other side. If you install a baseboard over the flooring, you'll see a a wider gap in the middle between the board and the floor where it'll be tight on the ends. This gap occurs because you can't bend the baseboard with the sagging slope of the floor. Leaving the baseboard there will eliminate any hills or valleys in the floor. You could try to use self-leveling underlayment, but sometimes it's too large of an area and would require more than it's worth, especially if in a house where it still moves a little bit year over year.... as it would still produce that gap latter on down the road. Just my opinion.
dont get confused with this comment hes refering to a raised foundation not a concrete slab
With regards to what my comment pertains to, it doesn't really matter to differentiate between raised foundations vs. concrete slabs... the point I was making was regards to sub-flooring that isn't level, regardless if it's raised foundation or concrete slab. While concrete slabs would give more stability and less likely-hood of floor sag, it's not 100% fool proof. You can still have slab cracks that can cause some sagging over time. Even raised foundations will typically be level for quite a while before you see sagging, if any, over a longer period of time. This is why I prefixed my entire comment about working in new homes being okay for removing the baseboards.
@@Hiddukel1 ive never known or seen concrete slabs sag over time thats why it cracks it doesnt sag. were i have seen raised foundations being its wood and with time may sag
never have i came across a dead on level floor and lowering baseboard yea you can but there will be a lip or a line were the top of the baseboard was at from the caulking that isnt easy to remove which is noticable also filling were the subfloor is low. wood subfloor moves whats gonna keep that floor leveling compound from cracking and releasing from the wood subfloor and making noises everytime its walked on. how thick can you lay that floor leveling compound did you use any primer on the subfloor was all the dust off of it to create a good bond.couldnt you sand down any high spots and avoid the concrete based filler on a wood subfloor that moves to avoid any problems you were pointing out mistakes and i was wondering about some i didnt see on your 10
@@Hiddukel1 when removing screws that missed the joist shouldnt you have screwed them into the joist instead of throwing it out and not have it screwed and if he missed there how many other screws were missed did you check the rest of the room your install is only as good as your prep.
I have found over the years that using planks with the underlayment built onto the back is a big let down. We usually use the underlayment made of recycled tires with built in vapor barrier, that gives a much more sound deadening effect, and it is firmer and more comfortable to walk on, just make sure you get planks with no underlayment already installed. Also, you might have to put down 3 mil vapor barrier first if your underlayment has none. We always remove the baseboards, I too prefer to slide the wood planks under where the baseboard will be, so that it can expand under the drywall. This provides you with some good buffer for error when you have wavy walls, but you still need to hide the gap. For concrete and wood floor dips, we use a self leveler mortar, which when mixed pours down like pancake batter, very liquid and loose, and it finds its own level. We just coax it into place and make sure it is flush with the rest of the floor.
Vapor barrier on a ground slab will result in a saturated concrete floor if you live in a humid climate. I have torn out laminate floors and was shocked at how wet the slab was. So wet it had to dry out for more than a week with dehumidifiers running. Not only does it create a double vapor barrier, moisture cannot escape, it brings in fresh moist air (to condensate) every time you walk on a spot that is not perfectly flat. No sub floor is perfect. Also grinding the floor (concrete) is my preferred method to level. No set up time, no risk of product failure. Floor leveler only for severe dips.
jeffostroff great tip I never knew there was such an underlay
@@dcwoodworks Yup, they sell it at Floor & Decor and also Lumber Liquidators
@@carlmccoy662 exactly!! Even on wood when the manufacturer demands you lay down plastic sheets before install, man I tell ya the floors we've pulled up because the plastic wont allow the crawl space to breathe upwards so the floor rots. I wouldn't recommend plastic at all but that voids the warranty. I highly recommend product with attached pad because the pad stops just short of the edges and while the plank itself is highly waterproof, it allows air flow so any humidity can escape upwards
@@thereaper2762 Manufacturers are more concerned with their product warranty than your sub floor or anything else in your home, including you.
you made some very good points. Regarding the base molding removing for the vinyl flooring to go underneath thereby creating a cleaner look without the use of the shoe molding.....that's fine, but by doing that you make it more difficult to later replace a piece that might get damaged. One of the benefits to the floating floor is to be able to replace pieces if need be with ease. By going under the base molding, one would have to remove the molding to create room for separation?
I have always hated quarter round, so I vote for taking the extra to remove & re-install, or upgrade the baseboards. If you are going to re-install, take a moment to label each on the rear side to avoid confusion when re-installing them. I am also a proponent of priming & painting the baseboards prior to installing them. You will still need to fill the holes where the finish nails have been sunken, but it is worth the extra time to have the extra clean lines where the baseboards meet the wall. Oftentimes I find I don’t need to caulk the space ...allowing an even cleaner line to be had. There are situations were this isn’t possible...mainly where the wall color is lighter than the baseboards. I quite often prefer a lighter wall color with a deeper trim. It emphasizes the trim work but can also really frame out the wall color & make it pop.
Brian @ clever solutions finishing
DFW Metroplex
Yes agreed. Just number the back of them with 1 -2- 3-4 etc. Works like a charm. And every room do the same thing and same rotation.
Never use quarter round. Better to burn the house down and build new.
i did that too. numbered the base boards on the back as I took them off so I know exactly where to put them in order back.
Thank you good info
In my house, caulking is a must seeing as nothing seems to be straight, including the walls LOL caulking makes everything look amazing. I agree with priming, caulking and painting. A much nicer, cleaner finish.
When you reinstalled the base board at the end of the installation, I don’t see how that changed the large gap between the lower vinyl plank and the bottom of the base board. Did you install the base board lower? If so, that means you would have to repaint the wall, no?
Yeah, they will lower the baseboard down to the finished floor level. Which means repainting the walls...I'd rather install quarter round. Quarter round also has more flex in it to follow the dips and bumps in the floor. Baseboard has a harder time doing that.
I plan on removing the baseboards as I am painting my walls also. This will allow me to use a roller at the bottom and I don't have to worry about using a brush to trim over all the baseboards
Can you installing new slightly taller baseboards?
watching those videos because i’m about to work on my barber studio floor, this is amazing instructions. God bless you and stay safe
Not sure why I'm so interested...we live an in apartment...but glad I know how to do this! Thanks Brad!
You'll use it one day!
I've been watching these kind of videos and it's amazing how many tips I've learned. I rent too but I've applied the tips to other things. This past weekend I went to help my family with some remodeling and was able to accomplish tasks that surprised me.
You’ll be the “expert” when helping a friend. 😎👍
My first time installing this in one of my rooms , mistakes , I didn’t remove the staples from the carpet install before, didn’t remove the baseboards . It still looks good and feels good I’ve had no issues with it but obviously there’s little bumps here and there but now I know what to do for next time! Don’t be scared to try things on your own people !
I didn't remove the baseboards either. The staples had to come out. The best tools out there for removing staples are a wrecking claw and floor scraper. Otherwise you are on your hands and knees pulling them out with pliers.
I’m 17, in college, and trying to finally finish my room now that I have my own money. I currently have a plywood (sub)floor and no trim. This video is massively helpful and I’m super appreciative of all of the simple explanations. 🙏
I recently used these tips to make an install of lifeproof flooring in my sisters bathroom so much easier and without any issues. Thanks for doing the video !
Excellent video - thanks! I usually take the opportunity to upgrade the baseboards to something taller / nicer. This is especially helpful if you're going from carpet to plank flooring because otherwise you're going to have some painting to do if you put the original baseboards back on.
Great video, very helpful. I would take the baseboards off before doing the flooring as well. A lot less of a headache, can also give them a quick coat of paint to clean them up while they're off if need be, much easier.
I've been researching for weeks on what I want to do for flooring for my basement and settled on vinyl plank. This step by step installation helps greatly! You got another subscriber and keep up the good work! Thanks man!
You NEED. A vapor barrier over concrete.
Sure do over concrete.
Wonder what happens if you use 4mill poly?
@@jonwebster6172 Not with Lifeproof.
If you find it hard to see your pencil marks for cut lines on dark surfaces, try putting blue painters tape on the dark surface and draw the cut lines on the blue tape. I also put blue painter's tape on the foot of my jig saw so I don't scratch the surface of whatever I'm cutting with my jig saw.
A thin sharpie is awesome as well
yea i was wondering how he was able to see his markings with that dark vinyl
Great job. I mostly use a barrel grip jigsaw for 90 percent of my cuts , cutting from the bottom of
the vinyl flooring , so you are cutting with the saw upside down . Very easy to see your lines , plus no tear out
and no chance of marring the flooring. Takes a little getting used to , but for each their own .
This video kinda helped thanks because I started doing this when I was 13 now I’m 14 and it this video made it a lot more easier to install the floor.
Thanks I'm going to attempt the same thing in my house, however we're taking the baseboards off to sand and repaint them (house was built in 2003). I totally agree that the extra effort on the baseboards makes for a cleaner look!
Yes...! Bought a 30 yr old house with multiple paint-by-mop coats. Took the nice thick old school baseboards off and dragged them on the concrete driveway for starters to save sandpaper. People come over and think the house is newer than it is because of the clean paint lines with contrasting moldings. Had to clean up paint gobs around a lot of outlets and switches, too. The horror!
We ended up having to fill in a low spot like that and used self leveling concrete. After about a year, you can hear it crunching when you walk on it. It's great.
The reason it’s crunchy is that the floor is flexing, if it were solid that would not happen.
you always need to screw in the subfloor before you apply the self leveling compound. Even if it looks like it is screwed in, throw more screws in there. If, however your OSB subfloor is delaminating, then you will need to replace it all together.
This is by far the best video I’ve seen on floor replacement. Thank you so much for this step by step, simple, and clear instructions!
Great video Brad, I am actually starting this same project in my daughter's bedroom and this video is very helpful. I love how you broke every step down and showed the pitfalls to avoid!! Thank you again for the great project videos!!
You're welcome! Make sure you watch my other one for some more detailed pointers on install vs Mistakes. ua-cam.com/video/6KEthELQfro/v-deo.html
maybe not the safest way but if you are experienced enough you can raise one side of the material keeping it against the fence cince ur only using 48" light pieces its easy enough.. great video and always follow manufacturer instructions (no underlayment needed)
I suggest you find a better video. While this one is informative it is not a professional Installation.
I want to install a vynil planks on concrete, should i need a floor mat under the vynil floor ?
I’ve done almost my entire 4 bedroom house. I always remove the trim and put down new trim. I like the look of 1/4 round on the trim so I also add that. Thanks for the tips.
The whole point of removing the baseboard is so you don’t have to install 1/4 round. Seeing 1/4 round installed is typically a red flag that the install wasn’t done professionally. But to reach their own.
Did you mean "shoe molding" instead of quarter round? Shoe molding extends out 5/8" from baseboard, where standard quarter round is 3/4" x 3/4". Shoe molding looks good to me, but the 3/4" quarter round looks like your covering up a bad install in my opinion. I had lumber liquidators install real hardwood on the majority of my first floor, they had a few areas that the shoe molding would not cover, I made them fix those areas before I signed off on job, to avoid the quarter round in some areas.
@@bt7482 Or the homeowner didn't want the painters to come out and recaulk and paint the baseboard. The baseboard goes up before the floor is most cases. Floor guys are the last on the job because we need the whole floor to be clear
Well that is pointless! Installing new baseboard only to add 1/4 round cause you "like" the look of 1/4 round? Facepalm!
If your miter saw can’t cut the whole width, raise the planks by putting a piece or two of mdf or plywood on the miter saw bed. A 2x4 also works. There’s the added bonus of extending your saw table.
Great video, I like that you got right to the point, spoke quickly but concisely and didn't waste time.
I just did the same type of install using Mohawk from Lowe’s. It required .25 inch expansion gap. I left the baseboards on and covered the .25 inch with quarter round. I learned from my mistakes and will learn from them when I start another room. Nice video
Flooring guy here. First mistake, using tile ADHESIVE as a floor leveling compound. Not sure how old this video is, but probably by now, the flex between the joists on that subfloor have started cracking that tile adhesive, soon it will start to crunch underfoot when it’s walked on. Number two, when you cut the carpet at the door to install flooring n the bedroom, you should have installed a piece of tack strip across the doorway under the carpet to mechanically hold it in place, without it the carpet will loosen over time and develop a wrinkle close to the door in the carpeted area.
First mistake was using pliers to remove staples! Lmao. Then suggests using a scraper on nails?
What product would you recommend using to level an OSB subfloor over large areas like this?
Canonjac I use a combination of sanding high areas and leveling with a Portland cement based floor leveling compound such as Ardex or Mapei floor leveler in conjunction with a latex primer to adhere the leveler to the subfloor. Make sure the osb is screwed tight to the floor joists or trusses before leveling. Allow at least 24 hours after pouring before installing any floor covering. i.e. carpet, vinyl etc.
@@ryanbraun3263 With scraper is 10 times faster than pliers.
do you need subfloor primer if the floor is concrete? im trying to get new floor for small storage next to the kitchen. It's only about 4x8 size. I also have adhesive tile (marble design or whatever) to cover on top of the plywood. The instruction of that tile tells me to apply the primer, but I do not feel it is neccessary for small storage.
Thanks so much for making this look so easy! I’m very much a newbie when it comes to home projects but, cannot afford to professionally have the floor redone in a room I rent out. The carpet was thrashed from my previous tenant and I really was struggling with the cost to replace it.. that, and I hate carpet!Anyhow, I opted for the vinyl flooring instead. I really have no clue what I am getting myself into but, you have given me some confidence after watching several of your videos so this is my initial thank you. I’ll comment again with photos once I am finished. I don’t have any fancy cutting tools so fingers crossed I can “score and snap” like a pro! Wish me luck! Haha 😅
LOOKS GREAT and PERFECT! I think with right tools and listening to your tutorials beginners can pull this off instead of paying expensive contractors. Thanks man!
"Expensive contractors" is the best joke I've heard all day! I install flooring for a living people that say we're Expensive must know everything in the world and don't pay anybody to do anything for them. Speaking for my company we charge a fair rate for the task at hand.
@@johnstonjoseph81 I always charged a fair price especially to correct home owners mistakes.
Wished I had seen this vid before I attempted my sons floor. There were some great tips. Thank you
Thank you! Doing this for the first time and appreciate the nuances of actual installation, complete with mistakes. This will definitely help me not make the same mistakes and waste time and money! Very helpful!
Well done on many parts, opting out of quarter round/shoe moulding leaves an unsightly gap at the top of the baseboards in this case. Leaving you with a choice between a repaint or a taller base. Other than that, undercut the j bead at the closet in the same way you did the door. Bonus points if you also cut the corner bead at the back. (Probably can't do either with the hand saw option) very decent instruction all in all!
I thought the same thing about the baseboard having a gap with the wall paint. And noticed they didn't reinstall the baseboards for the video. That would've been another mistake, I guess.
ooh, ooh. I really like how they ensured a straight cut using the jigsaw kept in line with the straight edge clamped down on both ends of the sawhorse table. Cool beans!!!
i just use a multi-tool and my knee. lol
This was super helpful. I like your straight to the point, no nonsense approach to filming the video. Seeing Copper a few times was a cute bonus too. Thank you so much!
Wow!! Thank you for such a well produced video! I loved seeing you un-do the floor to fix an issue, I feel empowered to do the job and it’ll be ok if I make a mistake! I also loved the digital drawing of moving the floor- WOW did that help my brain. Fab video!
You have to be the most thorough handy man on UA-cam. I have a lot of home projects to do and will use you to learn all the skills 👍👍
Thanks!
Appreciate the Super Thanks!
Mistake 11 - be careful of color variations by box in addition to pattern variations. Different boxes may be different lots and could be slightly lighter or darker than other boxes. This will be very noticeable if several lighter/darker planks and near each other, spread them out and not very noticeable. Mistake 12 - shoe molding is the correct term, quarter round vertical and horizontal dimensions are the same. Shoe molding is taller than it is wide and is the correct profile to use for floors.
👍
1/4 round is the correct term if you are using 1/4 round. The flooring I am installing only has matching 1/4 round, not shoe molding available.
I would add mistake 14 using pliers to remove staples use a shovel or scraper much faster and easier on the back. Mistake 15 using a prybar to remove tack stripes again use a spade shovel and save your back. ( i know i just did room the hard way and my body was not happy)
Videos with mistakes are the best! You learn the most from them. Thank you for this!
Question you don't put anything in the bottom
Husband & I are closing on our first investment propety (single family 6 bed 2 bath/ duplex style and this video is so helpful.
Great video! This type of flooring was easy for me to install, I think most people could do it... only problem was my legs weren’t used to the kneeling and bending and I hurt for about a week afterwards, but it was worth it
how long did it take you to install it?
Thanks for explaining why you weren't using underlayment and telling us to follow the manufactures recommendations!!
You're welcome!
Apparently if a thick resilient underlayment is used with the lifeproof vinyl flooring, it would allow the planks to flex too much when pressure is placed on it and possibly causing damage to the click lock groove joints.
Planning on putting in my first vinyl flooring and very grateful to have come across this
could you also do a video on where to start if you're doing multiple rooms and you want to avoid transitions?
always start in the hallway with all the doorways - if you get that right, bedrooms are easy....
Great tips for this type of flooring, and the finished product looked owwsome. Yes, your South is showing.
Got away from me a bit 😂😂
thank you i bought all the materials and someone wanted to charge $800 to install it, but your video shows that is very easy, Im saving my self $800 thank you!!
You're lucky you were charged $800. I was charged $2000, including getting rid of my carpet, and that was a discount if I allowed them to repaint inside of the house. I'm in need of painting and replacing the carpets upstairs.
Nice! 👍
You may have been able to cross cut full width by putting scrap piece of wood under plank to raise up and use maximum blade diameter of miter saw.
Yes, good hack
So how do you fix the paint gap you now have above the baseboard? Thanks!
Skim coat of drywall mud/re-paint
4 years after you posted this video, and the same flooring is still selling every day. 😎
A buddy & I are putting one of these floors in next week, and this helped.
Thanx!
Seeing an install without a quarter round is definitely a sign of a pro/enthusiast install. The only time I might look past it is if you've got some really nice built-up baseboards where the quarter round looks appropriate and not just an afterthought.
I had an old house with built in wood baseboard trim so in that room I did use quarter round but it turned out really nice. In the bathroom I pulled the trim and it was super clean looking after I was done. Definitely would say remove the trim if the option is there!
@sweetbriar huslin I was thinking that same thing and hadn't noticed spacers or anything. Maybe I just missed it. 🤷
Pros use shoe molding unless the homeowner wants to go with a larger base or the base is very low to the ground in the first place. Removing base that is caulked to a wall can cause all kind of ugly when the base is put back on lower than it originally was. If you do opt to take the baseboards off, then you have to very carefully cut it off so it doesn't rip any of the sheetrock paper and then you have to clean off all the caulking and repaint the wall before putting the baseboard back on.
Base shoe is more attractive and less chunky looking especially on a shorter baseboard.
@sweetbriarhuslin7371and modern shoe molding is awful thin!
Base shoe is a classic look for trim and personally I like it. I prefer actual base shoe to quarter round.
Thanks!
Great job! I’m one baby step closer to trying it!
What a great video! Thank you so much for some important reminders for those of us DIY'ers who don't do this kind of thing very often. The use of the multi tool and the way you spaced the edges under the door jams and trim where needed is going to come in so handy as well as many of the other tips like the *Warranty! Thank you for the reminder to be mindful of the contract!
While you are doing a subfloor fastener check this is a good time to do a subfloor creak check, if the home is 15-20+ years old, take a good walk around and inspect for creak noises and fix by adding screws to spots in the subfloor (in line with the joists of course)
Thank you for that utility knife tip for cutting the flooring!! My husband and I just bought our first fixer upper on a thiiiiiin budget. There's no way we're buying a giant saw yet and the carpet needs to go ASAP!!
I like the "lack of fancy tools shouldn't hold you back from this" line. I need to repair damaged boards and feeling a I can do this on my own feel. No Slumlord required!
4 years old and still SO relevant! Thank you! Okay - Now I need to go buy a few things... But firdt - SUBBED!
Carefully label ALL baseboard pieces WHILE removing them.Write on the back of each.
Painters tape and a sharpie just put it on every one
Very beginner advice taken
Sorry - beginner here. What am I writing on the labels? Which row they're from? Thanks
@@jackhaugh4198
Which walls. A on the baseboards then write A on the wall which it came from. Write B on the next baseboard and B on the wall what you came from and go throughout the alphabet.
@@rxonmymind8362 Thanks!
I recommend using a 10 foot straight edge or at least an 8 foot one to make sure sub floor is within spec for install.
Usually for vinyl it is 3/16 over a 10 foot span. Very important for warranty on the install.
Flooring Everything he did...
He used a six foot level in the video.
I only added the comment because it was a great video , but I feel the rule of flatness is critical in a vinyl install.
The first thing a manufacturer does when they come to a job site is check that rule. If the floor has any humps or dips more then 3/16 the warranty will be void and called installer error.
@@flooringeverything8260 yup 8 foot is the way to go but some floors require 10 foot to 3/16 of uneven surface but the smallest radius to 3/16 is usually at least 8 feet never seen the warranty uneven measure radius at 6 foot so him using the 6 foot isn't going to give you the measurement you need
On my jobs I found new use for my old chalk line. Drive a nail in at one end of the room and stretch tight to the opposite side.
Best video on UA-cam when it comes to these type of installs
I always liked to use 30lb roofing felt to raise low areas. Use your 6 ft level and a razor knife to cut single or multiple layers. No need to attach or wait to set up.
That might invalidate the warranty though, in this particular case, since it's apparently not supposed to have an underlayment. I wouldn't want to risk giving them a 'get out'...
@@WebbyWunda really though, what are the chances of using the warranty? If there are problems with the boards, you'd see it when doing the install and not use them. What is realistically going to go wrong with the flooring AFTER it's installed that would require the warranty?
@@zzz7zzz9 once it is down you own it. No company is going to do squat for you then. The most you're going to get is the run around if you try for any warranty then. I mean let's be real here.
@@zzz7zzz9
Warranty notwithstanding, thinking about why they would void it if underlayment is used is what I found curious.
The only reason they would is if it causes damage by allowing the vinyl planks to flex excessively when walked on, whether due to an unlevel floor or a thick underlayment with a lot of give to it.
While looking at pieces in the store they seem like they could take a lot, when heavy localized force is put on an unsupported joint, it might crack.
Regardless of whether it's for warranty concerns or for longest life installation, it should be kept in mind.
@@wingerrrrrrrrr companies, with anything, are always looking for ways to NOT give warranty. That's why they list specific do's and dont's. True, the felt would not hurt anything, but it would be enough of an excuse for them to void. But, like previously mentioned, the warranty would only realistically be for bad product in the box. Pretty much applying the product voids the warranty.
As others have mentioned, leave the baseboard and use shoe molding. it's more flexible than baseboard and you'll have less gaps between the bottom of the molding and the flooring. Shoe molding is used with most hard floor installs.
It also looks cheap and absorbs moisture.
I like the step by step, problem and solution demonstrations, glad you cleaned the floor for a fresh canvas
The lack of fancy tools is an excuse to get a new fancy tool!!
GD I want that trim remover thingy
@@nickmoffett4000 it’s called a trim puller btw but it f you are just wanting to get rid of the trim then just use a wonder bar
Sensible spending rules apply. Get the budget tools on first pass. then if you use it a lot, splurge on the good stuff.
If not, then eh, you spent the minimum amount to get the job done
I like and encourage your way of thinking.👍
This comment describes me to a T!
Have you considered the expansion or shrinking of the flooring? If you don't use quarter rounds, will there any potential gaps on the edge?
Thanks for the explanation to some of the issues. My landlord said she put down the vinyl plank flooring in the kitchen 2 years ago, and it is failing. She used underlayment, but the vinyl looks like that was appropriate. I think the issue is they failed to level the floor underneath, as they went over oak flooring.
When I did this, I pulled out three new boxes and dealt them onto a harbor freight 4wheel furniture dolly; that way I could roll my new pieces wherever I wanted. Great video thank you!
Before you lay the floor, you should put touch up paint along where the top of the baseboard is going to go back. The basboard will sit lower on the vynel than carpit, leaving a strip of u painted and cualking behind, recomend stripping the excess cualking off the wall, and painting before floor install
Unless you use new, larger baseboards like I plan on doing. Good tip, though.
@@realbop ,exactly what I am doing! Putting 4 inch baseboards on.
Great advice about laying out the patterns. Never thought of doing that but it is a very simple solution and the kids can genuinely help with it.
Can you do a herringbone pattern with 3"×9" brick next?
Lifeproof is by far one of the easiest and fastest LVP floors to install. Quality product with no temperature acclimation issues.
COREtec has it all over lifeproof. No comparison when it comes to quality.
Great video! Thanks for sharing, yes I agree I take the trim off the wall makes it much easier to work, then have the opportunity to change trim design or like my wife does repaint with neutral color to match..
Great video, we’re can I get the trim pull tool.
I have never seen it.
Amazon
I'm still working on mine and yes, I've made a few mistakes along the way but my saw is a scroll saw and a dremmel.
I installed laminate flooring in my house last month and we did the whole thing in less than three days. Smaller place sure, but once we got the systems down and ironed out the flow it couldn’t have been easier.
We sourced the laminate flooring for free from a person nearby who wanted it gone from their shed which saved us hundreds of dollars. Couldn’t be happier
If the nails are popping remove them and use screws, they popped once they may pop again.
Brye Cooper and be very careful with protruding nails is screws, because by hammering them straight in could be mistake 11 if you hit a hidden pipe
Good point, thank you!
I would have liked to see how you hid the old latex caulking joint that sealed the top of the baseboards to the walls. The new baseboard height is now lower than it was before exposing a good 1/4 to a 1/2 inch of old caulking and unprimed/unpainted wall. I've been in the business for 40 years, take the next video all the way to the end of the project. Many DIYer's on here that need advice on every stage including the re-installation of the baseboards and the requisite finishing thereafter.
The easiest thing for him to have done would be to scrape it flush with some type of putty knife tool, replace with taller baseboard, and recaulk. It costs a little more money, but is much quicker.
You can leave the baseboards and just use quarter round to cover the gaps. Much easier.
Excellent tutorial! Thank you for outlining the 'mistakes'. I sometimes get ahead of myself and make some of these.
I made every single one of those mistakes too... 🙄 Lol
It was a fun experience though and I figured it out. I had a super bad dip in our floor too and had to use EZ Level to correct the problem. Very nice video! Thank you! 😊
Me too!
I was in the floor business most of my life. Yes, try not to void the manufacturer warranty that come with anything you purchase, however...realize that most flooring warranties aren't worth the paper on which they're printed. Most are documents that shield the floor manufacturer from claims and many are just marketing tools, as they are ineffective at prompting a manufacturer to do what's right when a product they engineered does not perform even when installed to recommended guidelines.
Glenn Sohm yes sir, I’m in the flooring business aswell an have installed well over 100,000 square feet of click an I couldn’t agree more, the warranty’s are all bs, they want the floors to be within 1/8 of an inch over ten feet yet it seem nobody knows how to work a power trowel these days.. even if they are on the kind ya sit on lol if your near Ontario send me a PM
Also at the same time...I am sure the manufacturer doesn’t want a DIY person to use liquid nails under it because some poor shmuck at Home Depot said it works good for that type of flooring
@@dontjohnson8146 Yes...I have overheard some very incorrect information being relayed to customers by both HD and Lowes associates.
Truly like the trial-and-error portion unedited. Definitely something we could learn from👍💯