How to Make a Replacement Powerboat Bimini
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- In this video tutorial we will show you every step required to make a canvas or vinyl bimini top for a powerboat. The boat we will use to demonstrate the process is a Maxum 2900 SCR powerboat. The procedures outlined in this video will also work for sailboat bimini tops.
How to Make a Replacement Powerboat Bimini is an extremely comprehensive video including patterning and sewing of the bimini top. The steps in this video show patterning from an existing bimini frame which includes a radar arch, what is often called an "attached" bimini. An "unattached" (tubing bows support entire top) bimini can also be constructed following the steps in this video.
VIDEO EDIT NOTE: The drawing in the video at 50:01 min shows the panels with the "Sout" and "Pout" and "Sin" and "Pin" on the wrong side. The "Sout" and "Sin" should be on the right side not the left.
How to Make a Replacement Powerboat Bimini Chapters:
Intro - 0:00
Determining Fabric Required - 0:26
Patterning Prep - 2:40
Making Patterns - 6:23
Transferring Patterns - 30:09
Cutting Tails, Sleeves & Facings - 32:55
Preparing Sleeves & Tails - 38:59
Joining Panels & Center Pocket(s) - 49:34
Attaching Facing Strips - 59:14
Attaching Sleeve & Tail - 01:01:23
Finishing Sleeve - 01:05:26
Reinforcement Strip for Snaps - 01:13:17
Binding Raw Edges - 01:15:51
Adding Weather Stripping - 01:18:20
Installing Bimini & Snaps - 01:19:34
Materials List - 01:24:54
Materials List:
• 3M Filament Strapping Tape 3/4" - Item # 5643
• Seamstick 3/8" Basting Tape for Canvas - Item # 129
• Dura Skrim Patterning Material - Item # 103134
• Sunbrella Marine Grade Fabric from Sailrite
• YKK #10 Vislon Finished Zippers from Sailrite
• Thread from Sailrite - V-92 Polyester or Tenara
• Sunbrella Acrylic Bias Binding from Sailrite
• Shelter-Rite 18oz Black 61" - Item # 1120121
• Xtreme Seal Foam Black - Item # 102187
• SnapRite® Snap Fastener Button Silver 1/4" Barrel (Nickel) - Item # 104154
• DOT® Snap Fastener Hard Action Socket (Nickel Plated) - Item # 333058
Tools List:
• Tape Measure, Fine Tip Marker, Scissors, Straight Edge (yard stick), Pencil
• Fabric Marking Pencil Yellow - Item # 111002
• Tape Measure 120 Inch - Item # 102986
• McLube Sailkote 16oz - Item # 845
• Soapstone Fabric Marking Pencil White - Item # 102766
• Fabric Marking Pencil White - Item # 101026
• Sailrite Edge Hotknife Package (110 Volt) - Item # 103800
• Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1 PLUS Walking Foot Sewing Machine - Item # 300502
• 1" Swing-Away Straight Binder - Item # 100103
• Deluxe 5 1/2" Magnetic Sewing Guide - Item # 103597
• SnapRite® System (4 Dies & 100 Mandrels) - Item # 104237
• Pres-N-Snap Installation Tool - Item # 109011
Order fabric and supplies from: www.sailrite.com
Watch our next project on this boat "How to Make Enclosure Side Curtains" : • How to Make Enclosure ... - Навчання та стиль
For anyone who is just as confused as I and a couple of other viewers were watching Matt's wizardry at 20:12 here is some good info. Watch the video "How to make a 3 Bow Bimini". At 18 min 40 sec in the same issue is adressed. Only this time with a piece of string and totally comprehensible.
little nervous on my project, it is length of boat, older boat, with rope at hard top, but the principle is the same. Sailrite is a great resource of support. Wish me luck, will post my work as I go along.
Alta qualità e precisione su i lavori da non crederci vi auguro tanta fortuna.Buon Natale
O’ how I wish I had the advantage of your large flat work surfaces.....
Making a full bridge and cock pit enclosure for my Ocean Alexander. All parts are so much larger than any flat surface I have available. Managed the challenge and the primary structure is together.... it is so heavy, not giving up. Finishing touches of the pockets, edges and extreme foam around the arch...Fingers crossed 🤞 for good pocket corner bend measurements.
I am very envious of your work surfaces! When I started, I had no idea how heavy and how strong 💪 I would need to be to wrestle the project as it continues to grow.
I have been doing marine fabrication for more than 20 years and that is one way of doing it ,very complicated , ther is a much faster way and less expensive and maybe 16 hrs to complete, and not a wrinkle to be seen,hope to do a video soon.
Great video. Thank you guys, it helped me a lot to make a really quality and beautiful Bimini!!!!
Glad it came out great! Good job!
I thought i would tackle this job myself until watching this.
Jeff Noyes these people complicate the hell out of things. I’d have this job done in 5 hours by myself easy.
Hello, great video, Greetings from Las Palmas
Thanks! Be sure to watch for these videos coming very soon for a powerboat:
"How to Make Enclosure Side Curtains"
"How to Make an Enclosure Aft Curtain"
"How to Make an Enclosure Front Curtain"
Please Subscribed to our UA-cam channel so you will be informed when they are released.
infelizmente não entendo em inglês. mas gostaria muito de aprender a fazer esse tipo de trabalho . Acho maravilhoso
Thanks I'm already subscribed and I like a lot your video
Dear Sailrite,
I'm looking at the Maxim power boat video near 50:18 and am having trouble understanding it. It shows the 3 bow bimini "joining the Panels". The forward panel is shown "Outside Up" and assuming the bow of the boat toward the top of the image then the right side of that panel should be labelled "sout" shouldn't it????
I think the whole image is consistent, just in mirror image isn't it?
Or is my head on backward!!! ???
Regards.
Alf
Hi Alf,
Yes you are correct, the drawing in the video at 50:01 min shows the panels with the "Sout" and "Pout" and "Sin" and "Pin" on the wrong side. The "Sout" and "Sin" should be on the right side not the left.
I hope this helps, if you have more questions just ask.
Thanks,
Eric
Sailrite
show. Gostaria muito de ter um curso aí nos USA. infelizmente moro muito longe 👏👏👏
Sailrite Matt, this is beautiful top and your workmanship is excellent. I attempted one but it didn't seem like the front flap was not coming down over the bar enough. In other words it looks more like a visor than a vertical flap. What is the best way to fix that? More length on the top panel or more pull on the pocket? Everyone says tighter is better, but I just want it done right...
In this video we made a "Hang Down Tail" in other instructions (not shown in this video) we gave the option of making two types of tails the "Hang Down Tail" or the "Tuck Back Tail". This second type of tail tends to "tuck back" under the bows more. However, it is not as good for attaching zippers for future enclosure curtains (if desired). If you want instructions for the "Tuck Back Tail" please email me, Eric Grant, at ericg@sailrite.com and I will gladly send you those instructions.
Sensacional! 👏👏👏💎
excellent video and thanks for sharing. I was trying to figure out what size tubing that is because Matt was showing a measurement on the back sleeve 25:12 in the video and he says 1/2 or so to accommodate for the tubing. when i measure my 7/8 tube it more like 3/4 so is is 7/8 tubing
Our tubing for this boat is 7/8" OD stainless steel.
wow, very nice video
jegaad1 Thanks!!!
Wonderful video! Do you offer any written instructions to go along with the video?
Carl Obermeier Hi Carl,
Sorry, at this time we do not have written instructions for this bimini top project only the video.
I normally use a hole punch after i mark a snap never have any snaps fall off. To each is own i guess
Easiest way to get sharpie off is to just write on it again over the mistake and then immediately wipe it off before it drys. Try it👍🏻
38:13 If I see correctly, while measuring for the facing, the duraskrim at the outermost curves between Angela’s 3 patterns don’t sit flush with each other. She pulled them together on one side, correct? I assume this is due to the change in orientation along the Bimini frame?
Yes, that is correct.
Being in the canvas business 40+ years...its nice to see what goes into pattern work..but I layout Biminy Top in one piece..the way they're doing it..waste a lot of time..i stick to my way..saving lots of time and materials..
What's your thoughts on taking a 5 yr old bimini that did fit quite well and just laying it out and making the patterns off of it. for a new one that was just weathered and faded
A professional would not do that, but we have many customers who take apart a bimini and pattern off of it and it turns out great! Yes, go for it.
i am a "professional" in that i do these kind of jobs for money during the summer months. some biminis you can get away with it some you can't. for example on a bim/sprayhood on a fishing boat thats attached to the windshield made of a low stretch thick coated material that doesn't have pockets for the bows (except for the back one) you can probably get away with it. but with sunbrella type acrylic with full pockets for the bows it can get really tricky... despite what manufacturers say about the material the acrylic has plenty of stretch to it... especially on the bias. also sometimes ripping the seams apart then getting the pieces to lay flat to use it as a pattern is more difficult and time consuming than just making a new pattern. furthermore if you use the old one you have to be very cognizant of the seam allowances required and locations of said allowances. i would say as a general rule the more complex the item the worse the final product will be if you have to use the old one as a pattern. that said i've done most different pieces of boat canvas both ways and gotten away with it and also had things go really badly. for someone thinking about doing their own canvas work who doesn't mind if its a little baggy in certain areas... and the canvas is more for protection than looks just use the old one. if you want a drum tight fit that takes more practice than most will admit and a fresh perfectly done pattern. i will say this... and this is no offense to sailrite but the canvex or duraskrim patterning plastic they use is something i would not recommend. it stretches too much and can make your pattern all wrong from the start. matt will probably say you shouldn't be pulling on it to hard... and hes right... but even with 10 mil fiber reinforced plastic you can still stretch it and mess up a pattern and the duraskrim is 6. just my 2 cents.
@@dillrepair "ripping the seams apart the getting the pieces to lay flat to use as a pattern is more difficult and time consuming than just making a new pattern..."
AMEN!!
If I do not have access to the boat during the winter storage, can I do a good bimini top (just the canvas replacement) using the old bimini as a pattern?
not recommended at all.
Great video! Whats the color of the canvas,is it the 6020-0000?
Ola Lindberg We used Sunbrella Marine Grade #4696-0000. Here is a link: www.sailrite.com/Sunbrella-4696-0000-Tresco-Birch-Awning-Fabric-46
Can you tell me what color of the canvas and also the binding color, Thanks you
The Sunbrella color we used was Tresco Birch the binding color was Cocoa. Here are links:
www.sailrite.com/Sunbrella-4696-0000-Tresco-Birch-Awning-Fabric-46
www.sailrite.com/Binding-Acrylic-Cocoa-Bias-1
Thanks for replying!!! One more question if I'm using 1" tube do I use 3/4 " measurement to accommodate for the sleeve.
No, I would still use the 1/2" measurement.
I really appreciate the help that part had me scratching my head. thanks again
Would you consider doing a video explaining more thoroughly the amount of allowance needed for the forward sleeve. I've watched Matt explain this three times and i still don't understand how he arrived at 2 3/4". Otherwise great video.
Matt explains it in detail in the video, but it is rather confusing, so I understand your concern. In layman’s terms you need to push the edge of the pocket towards the bow a half inch all along the length of the sleeve. But when you reach the extreme end of the sleeve it should be narrowed even more (sleeve moved in towards the bow) an additional 1.5 to 1.75 inches to accommodate for the extra room that is needed at the corners. To accomplish this - start at the transition point (about 10 to 12 inches away from the sleeve stop position) then gradually and smoothly start to bring the sleeve in (towards the bow) until it finally reaches that measurement at the end of the sleeve (or the mark that was struck on the top indicating that location). See ua-cam.com/video/z2-rywqZrjY/v-deo.htmlh7m6s for more about this.
@@SailriteDIY hi. Sorry to bring this up again. But I still have a knot in my head about the numbers Matt is telling and the numbers Angela is drawing. Matt says 2,25 - 0,5=1,75 And Angela is making marks (away from where the sleeve would lay flat) 2,25 +(!) 0,5“. So she sews the pocket at 2,75 instead of Matts number of 1,75“. Your team is putting so much efford into those videos and you have no idea how many projects I was able to finish by watching your videos (and purchasing material ;-). Barbara
Why the width is multiplied by 1.6?
+Zito Sonic Each strip of fabric is not perfectly rectangular in shape, but rather includes some curve to match the shape of the frame. The curve takes up extra fabric thus requiring more yardage. The 1.6 factor also accounts for facing strips, hang down tails, forward sleeve, aft sleeve and intermediate zipper pockets those also are figured into our fabric usage factor of 1.6 for the bimini. It is true the 1.6 factor is the absolute max amount and it could be slightly more fabric than you need (you may be able to get away with less fabric), but I have never had a customer run out of fabric when using the 1.6 factor to determine the amount of fabric required.
See this link for an illustration: ua-cam.com/video/z2-rywqZrjY/v-deo.htmlm11s
Is there a reason why Forward Sleeve is full length and is curved on both edges and the Center Sleeve is short and only one edge is curved? 38:37
The forward and aft zipper pockets must support the entire edge of the top or they will not take the curve at the bow. The center bow does not require the zipper to go all the way to the sides since the forward and aft edges have enough tension to keep the center edge at bay. The curve along the one side of the center pocket is made to match the shape of the bow (which is crowned) the opposite side does not need a curve since it is simply sewn down to the top.
Thnank you very much. All clear now.
Hello. I do not understand exactly how to perform exactly pocket matching (video from 1; 05; 42 to 1; 10; 00) can any more detailed explanation ??
Matt explains it in detail in the video, but it is rather confusing, so I understand your concern. In layman’s terms you need to push the edge of the pocket towards the bow a half inch all along the length of the sleeve. But when you reach the extreme end of the sleeve it should be narrowed even more (sleeve moved in towards the bow) an additional 1.5 to 1.75 inches to accommodate for the extra room that is needed at the corners. To accomplish this - start at the transition point (about 10 to 12 inches away from the sleeve stop position) then gradually and smoothly start to bring the sleeve in (towards the bow) until it finally reaches that measurement at the end of the sleeve (or the mark that was struck on the top indicating that location). See ua-cam.com/video/z2-rywqZrjY/v-deo.htmlh7m6s for more about this.
Matt,as always, great video. But at 23:40 "... narrow the width of the pocket ..." and what you are doing with your pencil after that, you totally lost me. Would be fantastic if you could make a video explaining this in detail, moving back and forward from the patterning to the transfer on the canvas to show what you are doing and why.
By the way, I own a Pfaff 145 but I am saving up to buy me an Ultrafeed from the UK (for mobility purposes because moving that Pfaff around isn't an option). But at the moment the exchange rate between GBP and Euro is so bad that this is not going to happen any time soon I am afraid.
To simplify what Matt was trying to explain about the corners at 23:40 min when patterning it is typically enough to move the pocket sleeve in about 1 to 1 3/4 inches in almost all situations for a bimini (the more the bow rakes back or forward the more you need to move the sleeve in). So, if you do that on yours it will likely work out perfectly. I hope this helps. When you do purchase the Ultrafeed sewing machine you will love it!
I agree with windmill10 regarding Matt's instructions. But, I think I have figured out that when Matt says "begin curving in" he means begin flaring out the end of the pocket. And that is what is really happening, the ends are flared. Right? I get confused about the description "in". Does that mean in toward the center of the top or in toward the rear or some other direction? I agree with comment from windmill10 about a video explaining this detail. I've watched this portion of the video over and over. It's hard to follow.
@@SailriteDIY Four years on. I have my Ultrafeed LSZ and I am finally getting round to building my bimini. I watched the video again and .... I am still totally confused. I get that you need to move the pocket sleeve in because of the curve. But the method to determine it is still an enigma to me.
I agree it was confusing, I would have liked to see a shart video shot of the inside to see how it looked.
sailrite do you have a how to for t top canvas replacement
Not yet, it is on our list this winter and we hope to have it done in 2017.
Looking forward to the video and purchasing one of your sewing machines
terrible folds on bimini mate
+Krzy Mali Show me a bimini with no wrinkle and I will concede, I have never found a perfect wrinkle free bimini even at the Annapolis Boat show. The fact is that even if a few wrinkles are present they often look great.
Matt, you will never make everyone happy. I am running a canvas business with my LSZ-1 machine which I upgraded to the aluminum balance wheel, and absolutely love it. In the rare instance I need a little more throat to get fabric under, I use my 1956 Pfaff 229 machine. It's an oldie, but goodie. Ended up being part of a trade deal from a garage sale, but works great. It is setup on a smaller table with thigh lift for the foot and full tilting control for the motor. I use it very little in my business. My 12' x 16' table is setup with the LSZ-1. I wouldn't have it any other way. I think it was a great purchase for me. My next one will be the 111. After this Hurricane IRMA in Florida, I should get plenty of Canvas replacement jobs. Hoping to order this year. Thanks for keeping the videos coming. Jim "Boats" C. - Owner, Salty Dog Custom Canvas.