Replacing A Boat Transom | Grady White Restoration Project!
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- Опубліковано 25 вер 2024
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Hey DIY enthusiasts and boat lovers! Welcome back! Today, we're tackling the project of a poured liquid transom as we show you a transom upgrade that's not only doable at home but promises a boatload of benefits. Get ready to bid farewell to rot issues and say hello to a solid bond that lasts a lifetime!
Join us as we demonstrate how you can upgrade your boat's transom with Carbon Core right in your own backyard…we'll show you the ropes! It's not just an upgrade, it's an investment in the longevity of your vessel.
We share the tips on how to prep your boat for the best, rock-solid bond. Follow these steps, and you'll be cruising with confidence in no time.
Discover why these poured transoms are a game-changer. This liquid ceramic solution ensures your transom will never rot, providing long-lasting durability that stands up to the elements.
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Time to turn your garage into a maritime workshop and take your boat to new levels of durability.
Let's get started on this DIY adventure together! ⚓
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#DIYBoatUpgrade #transom #NoRotNoWorries
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Thanks for your support & enjoy!
You reminded me of 1971, Anacostia River in Washington, DC where my stepdads 28ft cabin cruiser was wintered & your
work here reminded me of what we did every spring for 4-5 yrs;; looking for rotten spots, cutting them out, & repairing it
all. Then the scraping for the bottom coat that had to go into the water wet. Scrubbing the nasty oily hull was fun as
well so thanks for the walk down memory lane. I have no boat but I appreciate all your explanations / reasons for all
you did w/ this big job. I'm hoping to build a pontoon this summer but the jury is still out. Thanks for the videos
Thank you so much for the comment! I’m glad we can take you down memory lane! These projects are tough but you learn and they’re worth it in the end. Hopefully you take on that pontoon project and enjoy it as much as we enjoy ours! 🤙
I've been entertaining the idea of building a pontoon style boat, although I may not use pontoons at all in a build I call it
this right now.... lol, anything you do for money or yourself is worth doing it the right way & the biggest thing I'm seeing
w/ boat related work is that the amount of quality prep work you do will pretty much determine what you get at the end
of the day? When you said, "I want it to last".... that was key to what I'm gonna do & expect so anyone not saying these
things I will not go back to their work b/c I don't need help in cutting corners in life(or boat work), and in my build there
will be a motor so what I saw you do was important. Never know what I'll find in a salvage area & I'd want a transom to
be super strong. This was a class video, ty much & for the warning about the "Business" who lacked..... peace Sir
Humbled by your words! 🙏 I truly do this because I love it. And I’m as transparent as I can be. And you’re right it’s hard to find videos where people aren’t cutting corners. The quality of the outcome is 100% reliant on the prep. And I’ll admit I get impatient and try to hurry things up many times. It’s a fault of mine. I’m actually doing a second transom on a 19’ Grady (alieys dad’s boat) trying to put that out next week. We do the same pour but we cut the inside skin this time. And we also use FGCI’s Arjay 6012 transom pour this time with zero issues! It’s a more detailed video than this one imo! Thank you again! 🤙
I know nothing about "glassing boats" or what materials will stick to others making the prep even more important & as
you said about the Coosa Boards, you didn't feel sure that it would stick as good as ya wanted so you poured the other
stuff. What I believe is that doing a boat correctly is comparable to the work done on aircraft. Both can cost lives and
a lot of money if done incorrectly. Aircraft have more rules but what you're doing is already hard enough w/o having a
Gov Agency dictating & inspecting every repair. Yep, I'm gonna watch when you do the other boat a 2nd time? That's
going to have a lot of learned lessons from you directly. I look forward to seeing that & a transom holds the biggest
money part onboard, the engine(s)..... lol, I wanna see.hear what you've learned & thanks again.. peace
I really admire you guys for working (and finishing) on this project.
Really inspirational!
Enjoy your boat!
Thank you bud we really appreciate that! Thanks for watching! 🤙🌊🛥️
This is the first video I have watched from your channel. Great narrative, very clear and descriptive on what you were doing and honest on what went right and what went wrong.
Thank you so much we really appreciate that! Thank you for watching! 🤙
I just found this awesome channel today, I was going to say the same thing. Excellent work, you make it easy to listen to and watch.
Thank you so much! 🙏
This is a very nice job that will last a lifetime.
Some of the people making comments have no clue what they are talking about. You absolutely cannot remove all of the old wood from the top with a chainsaw or any tool. And it doesn't matter if you cut out either the inner or outer skin to access the old wood. That pourable transom bonds to everything it touches including the skin. You couldn't remove that skin if you tried.
The only thing I would have done differently is to wear something over my arms while cutting that fiberglass! I can feel my arms itching through the phone! 😂
THANK YOU! You see, you get it. No way you’re getting All the wood out. If you leave wood bits, they will rot, turn to dust and then you get voids.
Pourable transom is a bond that makes all the fiberglass and itself one. It’s not coming apart ever. I think some people are confused with the bond you get with plywood or composite material when you glass it. Even then, I think it’s fine being done from the outside.
Brother I’m STILL itching from this job! 😂 thanks for the comment! 🤙
Thanks for the Straight-Up honest review of vendor.
Godspeed
No prob Glenn! Thanks for watching! 🤙
I repaired the transom in my 1991 Mako 211 with liquid transom seven years ago, and I couldn't be happier with how it came out. I just cut the top of the transom off drilled two big holes where the stringers were, so I could clean out all of the wood, using hydrochloric acid over and over again to remove all of the wood. Then I put patches over the holes and just poured it, reinforcing the stringers at the same time. You can put the outboard in the up position and jump up and down on the foot and the whole boat and trailer will go up and down. There is zero flex in the transom.
Bad ass Ralph! That transom will last forever! 🤙
Ditto, My pour was back in 2008, using Arjay, and it is solid to this day. I have no regrets, I removed the skin and did the pour as you did, and worked like a champ, great job, now enjoy that Boat.
That’s definitely reassuring to hear! Thank you bud! 🤙
Can you give some more info on how you rebuilt your Mako transom using acid. Did you take pictures or have it recorded? Your way sound much easier than removing the outside wall of the transom.
@@Memo-nd6fj , I took a few pictures, but I'm not sure they would help. The two main stringers are wood covered with fiberglass, too. So I made two large holes (about four inches in diameter) in the transom right where the stringers were, too (at the bottom, because that's how you drain the acid). I then used a long auger type bit, with extensions to remove all the wood in the stringers as far forward as I could. Like wise, I was drilling from the top, removing all the wood from the transom the same way.
Then I used long (homemade) wood chisels and everything else until I had removed as much wood as I could. Then, I put flat plates over the two transom holes by the stringers, and screwed then down tight with a bolt and flange on the inside. Then I poured the empty transom full of Muriatic acid (they sell it by the gallon at any hardware/home improvement store. Then I drained it all out the next day. It came out brown and all the wood was gone. Then, I put the plates back on the two holes, and filled the thing up with several gallons of ArJay liquid transom (they changed the name since I did it the first time, but I just did it again with my small fiberglass skiff and bought the same stuff)
There used to be a volume calculator on the site I bought it from the first time where you put in all your info and it told you how many gallons to buy. But, it's just basic math and you can do it on your own (order a few gallons than you think you will need if you're not sure of your math), which is what I did on my skiff transom pour. If you accidentally put a hole anywhere in the transom or stringer fiberglass casing, make sure you plug it with marine tex, or something, because the liquid transom is about like pouring molasses, viscosity wise, and will leak out almost any small hole. It will be cured enough to put the motor back on the next day. Give it two days, and take it for a run. I did my Mako 211, with a 200 hp motor about seven or eight years ago. It's still going strong, with no sign of any cracking or structural problems at all.
After doing it twice, I would buy a boat I like with a bad transom, with the heavily discounted price you always get, in a second, and rebuild the transom myself. One, a lot of people will almost give away a boat with a bad transom, and two, once you have done the repairs, now you know your transom is good and solid.
I have used Seacast. They are an awesome company and the product works amazing! My transom is ROCK solid.
That’s awesome to hear! Poured transom is really the way to go if youre DIY! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating agreed.
Wow, what a great video, and Thank you for explaining why you went with the poured product over the coosa board or plywood. I too do all the boat work on my boat by myself, and people dont realize how hard that is, so thank you for the explanation and the time to make and share the video of the hard work.
Thank you so much for the comment! Working on a boat by yourself is very tough especially doing big projects like this! Youre very welcome and glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching and commenting! 🤙
Loved the video, I used the same material 2 years ago. It worked really well. I cut the top off the transom and gutted it with a chainsaw. Boat is still going strong.
Awesome John! Love to hear people doing projects like this and having success! Thanks so much for the comment! 🤙
I did a similar project with a 1989 Mako 211 - I would suggest a few changes 1) add a few layers of fiberglass cloth to the inside of the transom before replacing the back panel. this would add strength to the finished composite pour. 2) refinish the entire transom surface before mounting the engine and hardware - it's a lot easier and simpler to work without the engine in the way.
Thanks for the comment Wayne! I agree. Unfortunately we were pressed for time to finish the exterior of the transom. We had an appointment to mount the motor and all we were able to do was what you saw in the video. I thought I had given us enough time but one delay after another left us with no option. Nothing rushed ever comes out right. Lesson learned! 🤙
I did a few transoms and i put some Peg board panels cut to shape with small spacers between them they will give you a very strong transom also used to use it in the bottom of brine boxes on Prawn trawlers when repairing as they drop stuff and punch holes but with the pegboard and matting and resin no way are they going to brake it again once we did one the mate and i get plenty of work fixing brine boxes and freezer floors.
@@bobmulder4064What material are the pegboard panels made of please
@@bobmulder4064What material are the pegboard panels made of please
@@Phantom-mk4kp I am pretty sure it is Masonite. The resin goes through all the holes making it very strong
Although I have never attempted one of these projects I’ve always been curious as to what is involved.
I’m in the skilled trades business. Planning ahead and thinking out the next step is most critical.
I admire your tenacity and reasoning behind your methods.
Hope you all the success in everything you try.
Wow thank you so much for the kind words. We really appreciate that! We try our best! Thank you for watching and for your kindness! 🤙
Awesome! Great to have dad helping out and joining in the memories. nice Benny Hill moment there whacking the funnel!
I’m lucky to have him helping whenever he can. Lord knows he’s done so much for me! Thanks so much for commenting🤙
I love the video I have a 24ft Grady needing this done and it was a great video to watch to learn about the process and seeing what way I need to go with my boat
Awesome George! I’m glad this video could help! If you need help just write us an email! We’re happy to help! Good luck! 🤙
Thanks for the heads up on carbon core.
No problem! Just trying to be honest! Thanks for the comment!
I don't think you stated it in the video, but I would recommend using something like a Palm Sander to vibrate across the whole transom to make sure you get a complete fill with no trapped air bubbles. Same thing they do when pouring concrete walls.
That’s a good idea but for this product you don’t need to. It has its own off gassing properties that allow the air bubbles to escape. If I were using SeaCast for example I’d use a mallet or something like you stated to help with the bubbles. 🤙
In the shop they size cut 3 new layers and refresh the front and sides and bottom. After filling the middle put a block of wood same size as the hole. And clamp a concrete vibrator on where the motor goes. Then fill the sides. Remove the wood block and tape it. Put holes in the tape. When it starts to come out of the tape seal it off. Top off the sides. But definitely put 2-3 new layers in all corners. The 3” cut is preferred though. But we used a planer a lot for cleanup in and out where we could.
That was a fantastic repair. I have seen the old ways done as described in the comments. Your way makes more sense and allowed a perfect bond. Very impressive repair
Thank you buddy! We loved how it turned out. It’s been almost a year since the repair and we just got back from a 220 mile round trip with her. Zero issues! 🤙
what a job Great job much respect
Thank you Alan! Really appreciate that! 🤙
Really cool project. Enjoyed watching the progress and final result.
Thanks Joseph! We appreciate you watching and commenting. I’m posting another transom video next week if you’re interested! 🤙
I'm glad I saw this video when I did. I am about to start my own boat project and was going to use Carbon Core. Glad to have dodged a bullet! Thanks
Glad the video helped! Go through FGCI, use their arjay 6011 transom pour, use our discount code and save a decent amount off that order and wait til we put out our second transom vid next week using this product! I’m sure you’ll do just fine! 🤙
Thanks, I have a 2004 Grady and have had fears about a rotted transom. Luckily it showed good results on a moisture meter recently, but after seeing your video, I'm not so worried anymore, thanks. Looks like you did a great job. BTW, I went with Suzuki outboards too on a recent repower, so far so great.
Awesome Robert! Rot is what most boaters fear on their boats. It’s not the hardest job, just very time and labor consuming. But anyone can do it and save literally thousands! 🤙
I am glad you explained why you choose to do a poor then use cusa board. Yes not in a shop in the baking sun with heat it makes good sense. I think it turned out very nice also. Great job getting that boat back in the water.
Thank you so much for that! Imo the pour is the best for the diy person. It’s hard to get things laminated in time with the heat down here during summer. If things kick off too soon, you’d have to rip stuff out and start again and that could get expensive. 🤙
WOW, what a job!!Thank for taking us along, nice work!!
Thanks Mike! Definitely a big job for us first timers! Thank you for watching! 🤙
I came across your channel and found it interesting, since i own a mini cruiser yacht.
You are an honest narrator, clear and concise. Your work is superb!.
I'll bet if i have to, i can do this with good results following your project.
Good luck with future endeavors.
Thank you so much for the kind words Edward! I truly appreciate it. Just trying to get better with every video. I’m finishing up my second transom to date. Should be done tomorrow and video should be up Monday in case you’re interested in watching! This one’s even better! Thank you again! 🤙
👍 " I GROUND everything out" !
👍
I do this type of work. I would personally never cut the outer skin. I get that there is stuff glassed to the inside. I prefer to release the top cap, slide it forward and work from the inside. Finish the job with a splatter on the inside or a gelcoat and sand/polish if its one of "those" boats. Also, consider reducing your hardener slightly more. A top pour will trap air in the corners and rough/uneven surfaces not to mention just from the turbulence of the pour. A longer cure will help tremendously. Another trick is to drop a 1 inch PVC pipe with a slash cut bottom. Full with funnel. Keep funnel full. No air bubbles. Leave PVC in the boat. Otherwise, your finished product looks very nice and im sure your customer will be very happy.
Thank you for that. I don’t do this work for a living, this was my first time doing a transom and it was on my boat. We’ve done 2 transoms, the second we did it the way you described from the inside. This pour product also doesn’t allow air bubbles. It has off gassing properties to prevent that. Thanks for the tip with the funnel! If we do anymore that would be useful for sure! 🤙
Wow I had no idea how it was done and if I decide to do it I will contact you to do it. Definitely a young man’s game ( I am 76) Good job.
Thank you sir! You can definitely do it! You got this! Just shoot us an email! 🤙
Great video. I doubt the first company you used will be around much longer. You gave a fair, unbiased review. Now, let’s see the fish!
Thank you so much! Well, I hope they get their act together. For their employees sake, id hate to see their company go under. 🤙
Great job!! Very interesting project to watch and helped me on my boat a well....Thanks
Thank you buddy! Glad we can help! Thank you for commenting! 🤙
This has been beyond educational for me, thank you for this video!
That’s so great to hear! Thank you for watching! 🤙🛥️🌊
Wow! Excellent video! You really know what you are doing there... hopefully I will find a nice used boat with a good transom....
Thank you Jeff we appreciate the kind words! I’m just learning little by little and actually applying it. You can find them out there it just takes patience. Or, do what we did and build it up yourself. We have an informative video on fiberglass coming out today that you’re not gonna want to miss! Thanks for the comment! 🤙
Once again nice job
Thank you brotha! 🤙
That's really good to know about that company, I'll look elsewhere for product. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video.
Youre welcome Donald! And thank you so much for commenting! It’s unfortunate but I have to be honest. Projects like this take time and money that many of us don’t have. And all we want as consumers is good service. I don’t like to put companies on blast but maybe in this little niche, this video will help make a difference. At the very least, it’ll save others from potential headaches. 🤙
@@perfectfitboatingI greatly appreciate that, and to think I paid for there sample box and liked some of the products. The heads up is far better than a headache down the road.
Great job with the project. I used the Carbon Core too. I did a 1987 Bass Cat fishing boat. I cut the top cap off and drilled and chiseled the bad wood out. Dangerously I also used a power chain saw. This works great,,, but very dangerous.
I too had a bit of an issue with the guys at Carbon Core. I called for some advice and comfort in using there product. They were hard to talk to and acted like I was bothering them with my questions?
I ordered 2 5 gallon pales. and only used 1 5 gallon and about 1 gallon of the other. Thanks again for the video!
Hey Scott thanks so much for the comment! I’m glad to hear your project worked out and you came out unscathed!🤣 I don’t think chainsaws were meant to be used on transoms 😂
Ya know that’s the feeling I got when talking to those guys over there. I’m assuming they don’t deal too much with regular diy guys like ourselves and they deal more with boat manufacturers. They made me feel like I was a nuisance. I guess that’s the state of affairs with these companies nowadays! 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks for watching Scott! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating thanks for the reply. Take care.
wow super professional video and great wind up explanation. thanks!
Thank you again! 🤙
Wow...this was an amazing and eye-opening video. Kudos for a job well done!
Thank you frank we appreciate that! And thank you for watching! 🤙
Excellent video and commentary! I learned something today...I never knew that you could 'pour' a new transom. Also, it seems that one of the more popular boats for new transoms is a Grady White. That's sad...I always liked them but would never buy a used one just for that reason. Looking forward to more videos.
Thank you so much for the kind words! We actually have another poured transom video I’m getting out next week and you guessed it… I’m a Grady lol. If you’re going to buy a Grady, definitely get a survey done. Unfortunately most older ones have this issue. It just is what it is. Even their early 2000 models had some issues. I believe they finally went away from using wood but not 100% sure. I don’t blame you for not wanting to buy a used one. We knew what we were getting ourselves into with this one. And because we’re doing the work ourselves, we figured it was worth it! Thanks again! 🤙
i have a bass boat that needs the transom re-done...i was planning on using carbon core but after watching your video i think i will look at seacast instead. thanx for the heads up.
Thanks for the comment! You really can’t go wrong with sea cast! If I ever do another project like this I’ll be using them and I’ll make another video! Good luck! Let us know how it turned out!🤙
I think you made the right choice and did a great job to bad that company shit the bed. you could use some painting skills but great job otherwise. I learned something watching this. Thumbs up Sir!!
Thank you so much! Glad the video helped! We did another poured transom, it’s our latest video. Imo it’s much better and more detailed than this one. Let us know what you think about that one! Thanks for watching! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating I'm a new subscriber and this one that popped up, I will most certainly binge watch your videos. I used to prep and paint cars but never got to dabble in Glass or Bondo so I'm curious to learn the boating side of things. Fascinating videos. I look forward to more of your content. BTW I'm watching from Alberta Canada.
@one567 thank you so much! I’m by no means an expert or a pro. Just a diy guy trying to save money and showing others how they can do it too.
If you were in the car paint biz this will be easy to try. It’s all about the prep!
Thank you again! 🤙
Never seen this done always wondered how it was done awesome video
Thanks Randy! There’s all different types of ways to do it. And they all work. This is just one of them. Imo the best way to diy! 🤙
I used a similar product I got from Melbourne, Florida. Mine had some chopped fiberglass in addition to the spheres. I repowered my 25' Wellcraft and never had any problems.
Awesome to hear! Nothing like not having to worry about the transom failing. I think that might be SeaCast as they’re based in Florida. Thanks for the comment! 🤙
Used Sea Cast to replace a transom. Was bullet proof!
Heck yeah! 🤙
Fantastic job my brother👍...I reckon you did some excellent work there!...much respect from zimbabwe 🇿🇼
Thank you my friend I appreciate the positive comment! Thank you for watching! 🤙
Nice work keep up the good work and I love that you’re wife is doing a lot of work on the boat
Thanks Larry! She’s a trooper and definitely not afraid to get her hands dirty! She’s had her fair share of bumps and bruises and itchy fiberglass nights! Without her this project would’ve taken twice as long! 🤙
Wow you make it look so easy, nice work good video 👍
Thank you Jeremy! It definitely isn’t! lol thanks for the comment! 🤙
I use that company and thank God I didn't have to call them back! My transom is a lot narrower than yours was thank God and I could drill mine and vacuum it from the top. I could never be happy with my outcome. I had to do the same at the end I was a little short. I had to mix up some epoxy myself 😂
I can see how a narrower transom with the whole cap exposed can be done from the top. That’s ideal! Nothing wrong with mixing some material and adding if youre short. How’s it holding up?
Cool. Thanks for the video.
Youre welcome and thank you for commenting🤙
Nice job! Looks like a fun project!
Thanks! Definitely challenging! 🤙
Turned out nice. Great job.
Thanks Todd we appreciate that! 🤙
Great info on company not taking care of there customers. Good to know customer service isn’t any good plus there charts for quantities is incorrect which means there really not reliable thanks again
Thanks William! Just sharing my experience. It’s a shame because their product is very good. Thanks for the comment! 🤙
Good job my friend. I had the GW open and my transom was rotted more than yours. I drilled into it to mount a ladder and the wood oozed out in a brown liquid. It was so waterlogged the back of the boat sat so low, water always came in the drain holes. If I kept the boat I was going to install the full transom with SeaCast and an engine bracket. Just a heads up, The gas tanks in those are made with thin aluminum. I took it out and had Aim Alloy in Broward repair it.
Thank you is much brother! Most of these older Grady’s are all rotted. I actually have another video where i patched up the fuel tank (not original) and truck bed coated it. I’ll eventually put a new tank in her. Thanks for the comment man! 🤙
Great work. Well thought out and you were flexible working with a tough situation. Nice engine!!
Thank you very much! 🤙
Great informative video. I enjoyed it. Good job!
Hey there thank you for the comment! We’re glad you liked it! Thank so much! 🤙
Nice work! I used Arjay 6011 pourable transom compound for my project and so far I’m happy with it. I was able to buy it locally so shipping wasn’t an issue and tech support was readily available.
That’s awesome! Shipping for this stuff is killer! I believe Arjay and this stuff is the same but I could be wrong. How long ago did you do it and what size boat and motor do you have?
@@perfectfitboating I bought the stuff about a year and a half ago, did my my pour in December of last year. Boat is a 2000 Sportcraft Sport Cat 23 CC with twin 200 HP Mercury Optimax’s.
@@josephwhitehead1692 nice! That transoms plenty strong! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating for sure. And because I replaced it from the inside rather than the outside, the inside skin is reinforced with 1708 and 1/2 inch Coosa.
@@josephwhitehead1692 I thought about doing it from the inside and In hindsight, that’s the better option. Next transom I do will be done that way.
Great job liked the attention to detail congrats!!!
Thanks so much Steve! We appreciate the support! 🤙
Excelente video, muy buen trabajo
Gracias hermano y gracias por el apoyo! 🤙
Was looking into doing this, gonna keep an eye out for how this holds up in the future.
Imo it’s the best way to ensure you have a solid bond. Unless you’re highly skilled working with fiberglass and have done transoms before. We’ve been using the boat for 3 months now there isn’t any signs of stress, cracking or anything. I would definitely recommend this method for the diy’er.
I did it seven years ago to my Mako 211 transom. It is as strong as the day after I poured it.
Excelente trabajo bro! Nadie se imagina lo complicado y la envergadura del proyecto que estas haciendo, genial que lo graves para que otros puedan tomarlo como guía en futuros proyectos. Un abrazo bien grande bro! 🌊
Gracias bro! Este trabajito era bastante complicado y tomó bastante tiempo para estudiar y planificar. Ojalá el video ayude muchas personas! Gracias por el apoyo mi hermano! Un abrazo!
Done a few on Bertrams (completely removing inboards and making them outboards) but did them a little differently. On the skin when remounting, you mentioned you used putty on the cut seam between the skin and the glass on the transom. Was that a epoxy putty you mixed up or a ureathane putty from a can? Secondly, when you used the wood blocks (outside) to help stabilize the skin in place you could have or should have used some interior steel to stop the stresses from pushing the cut skin inward when you apply power to the engine. This location is a possible area to get stress cracks and the seam opening. Thirdly after you poured the liquid you can use a vibrator (like a back massager) all along the transom to help the bubbles or pockets to break up. All in all it is a hell of a project isnt it? Fun to tackle and hope all works out great....Grady White is a very capable boat....Great East Coast boat.
Hey Scott thanks for the comment! For the seam I used thickened resin. The stuff out of the can was for fairing. I didn’t think about that steel that’s a great idea. So far no stress cracks and this transom super solid. This liquid also self gassing so there is no need to hit it with a mallet in order to get the air bubbles out like you would with seacast for example. But that’s a very good tip! It’s a HELL of a project! 🤣 we love our Grady and youre right it’s very capable for what it is! Thanks Scott! 🤙
Te quedo bueno. Buen trabajo
Gracias hermano! 🤙
Wow what a job thanks for sharing..
Definitely was! Thank you so much for the comment! 🤙
I have used SeaCast before. Works great.
Awesome stuff! Perfect for the diy person!🤙
Great video! Lots of hard work!
I was wondering if you could help advise me on a different type of boat issue. My 16' Bass Tracker has a soggy core floor... meaning that there is a lot of water in the foam between the inner and outer hulls. I cut a 4" by 1.5" hole in the inner floor at the back of the boat and with it jacked up in the front the hole, which goes down to the outer hull, keeps filling up with water. TIA! Keep up the great work!
Hey bud! Thanks for watching and for commenting. Some of these older boats are filled with foam that absorbs water. And more than likely that water has gotten into the deck and possibly the stringers. It might be time to rip off the floor and take a look at what you actually have going on under there. We have a 16ft flats boat we just took the floor off that was full of wet foam. Check it out on our page! You can follow along with us while you do your boat!🤙
Good job mate, and well done for naming and shaming companies who don't do as they advertise 👍
Thanks for the kind words. Believe it or not I don’t like to do that but I feel it’s the only way I can help others from suffering the same fate.
We have another transom video coming out next week and we do it from the inside of the boat this time. In case youre interested! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating Totally understand buddy but unfortunately we have no choice in some cases.
I'll subscribe look forward to the next project, you have a good educational channel mate nice one 👍
@@switchedon6530 appreciate you man! 🙏
Your on point sir very good video really appreciate it
Thank you Orlando we appreciate you watching and for the kind words! Just trying our best! Youre very welcome! 🤙
That Formula 27 stuff is great, but it does get hard quick.
You’re right about that! Small batches is the way to go! 🤙🛥️🌊
I’ve never used liquid transom before but I have many years of experience working with fiberglass and resins and resin pours. I have used silica in pours fibercell and shredded fiberglass glass they get hot when pouring? Does the liquid transom get hot? Just a hint what I would have done. Maybe next time instead of building up the low spots with filler , build it up higher with the mat you used stagger your mats so you don’t get big bumps. Then after it cures sand it down its way strong. Also when installing the mat use a fiberglass roller and roll the air out.
Hey Ian! Thanks for the comment! This is a ceramic pour and it gets HOT!!! Just as hot as the resins. Thanks for the tip! I’m still learning as I go. As a matter of fact we did another transom on another Grady 19’ but we did it from the inside vs the outside. We’ll be posting that soon and you can tell us how we did! Thanks for the comment! 🤙
Wow…. Phenomenal job
Thank buddy! Appreciate you watching and commenting! 🤙
nice job wishing you best of luck with it
Thanks man! We’re enjoying her every week! 🤙
First time watching one of your videos. Very interesting how this done. I have a SeaRay with an I/O. Last year I noticed my bilge would come on while at the sandbar. Turned out I had a leaking transom assembly. Repair facility recommended to replace entire unit as the labor was the same and they wouldn't guarantee just doing the gasket since the studs were already rusting. Luckily it was caught in time and the transom was still solid. Just curious what the ballpark repair cost was for this job? The price of new boats has become insane.
Thank you so much for watching! Sounds like you caught it just in time.
For this size boat, youre looking at right around 1500-1800$. That’s with all the supplies vs 6-8k having it done somewhere. And that’s on the low end. If you haven’t checked out our boat show videos, we confirm your statement of new boat prices being insane 😂🤙
Very good job thanks for sharing
The poured material will dry and harden without being exposed to outside air ? You can just close the cap immediately?
Thank you for the comment Dr.! Yes even though it’s sealed, at this point in the process it wasn’t completely sealed. What you don’t see in the video is I opened up the pouring holes on the top to help pour more material. 🤙
Nice video - well done
Thanks Jonas we appreciate that! 🤙
Nice job looks awesome
Thanks Chris! We appreciate that! Came out better than I expected. Thanks for the comment! 🤙
Heard that. Good on ya. I’d do the same thing if customer service isn’t a priority.
Ya know with the state of affairs we’re in (gas, groceries, living expenses) all high, bad customer service is the straw the broke the camels back. Idk about you but we’re tired of it everywhere we go. We go out less and less and we fix a lot of things ourselves like this video for example. Thanks for the comment brother! 🤙
ADELANTE!
I’m going to have to do the same thing on my 18’ center console I hear you about doing it on your own
I wish you good luck! But you can do it. Just take your time and prep the best you can. Cover all the holes so you do get leaks. That’s the worst part. You got this! 🤙
Very nice job! How long did the entire process take you from start to finish?
Thank you so much! This was the first time I attempted this so it took forever like 18 days. We did another one which we posted recently and that took 10 days. 🤙
Amazing 🙌🏼
Thank you for watching buddy! 🤙🛥️🌊
LOOKS BEUTIFUL
Thank you! 🤙
That's amazing, thanks for the info,
Thanks Mike! We appreciate that! Glad you liked the video and youre very welcome!🤙
I used marine plywood and epoxy on my 19 ft 1986 Aquasport. 2 layers of 1708. Has a Yamaha 115 four stroke on it. If and I mean “if” I ever do this again I’ll pour it
Nothing wrong with plywood if it’s sealed properly imo. Did you have a hard time laying up the glass by yourself ?
Is or do you ever vibrate the mix during the pour to eliminate voids and bubbles?
Not with this product… it has off gassing properties so you don’t get those voids and air bubbles! 🤙
Salam dari Indonesia 🇲🇨👍
terima kasih atas komentarnya dan terima kasih telah memperingatkan 🤙 hope I said that right 🤣
With modern adhesives I would glue down aluminium edging straps to reduce water ingress.
That’s a good idea! In this case the aluminum edging I put in were coated on the inside with sealant just in case! 🤙
Great vid!
Thanks buddy we appreciate that! Thank you for watching and commenting! 🤙
Great video great job.
Thank you buddy! 🤙
Great job
Thanks John! We appreciate that! 🤙
Impressive!
Thank you! 🤙
Sitting in East-Afica, with God knows how many old hulls - we use multi layered marine plywood, fibreglassed over. I am scared of poor bonding to the sides and bottom of the hull. At times we use rot resitant timber like Teak or Mninga.
Thank you so much for the comment! I thought I replied to you when you first commented. I apologize!
People have been using plywood and fiberglass for years with boats. In our boat there’s still some wood that is perfectly fine. As long as you prep the surfaces and encapsulate the wood completely you should be fine! 🤙
Great video! I have a 20’ boat with a Mercruser stern drive. It has transsom rot, we are going to pull the engine and drive and rebuild the transome.
I am still deciding on either cosa board or a poured Sea Cast system. Have you done a IO transom?
Hey Russell thanks for the comment! And great for you for taking on a project like this! Although I haven’t done an I/O before I think the process would be close to the same. Either sea cast or coosa would be a great choice. If you’re confident in getting good laminations then go with coosa! It’s cheaper. Sea cast will guarantee a perfect bond. And that’s why I chose poured over coosa. I just didn’t have the man power, and experience and the weather to do it. Resin kicks awfully quick here in south Florida! 🤣 good luck! Let us know how it turns out. I hope this video was able to help! 🤙
I've got a transom project similar to your transom but a smaller boat. So once you put the panel back you used a putty to fill crack then 1 layer of cloth( or more?). Then more putty to even it out, then primer and then gel coat? Is that right? Thanks and enjoyed the video. Oh are you still satisfied using a liquid transom?
Hey mark! That’s correct. I filled the gaps with putty, let it cure then I came back and grinded out 2-3 inches out of each side of the cut on a bevel. Then filled with two layers of 1708 and 1 matt. Then I sanded that down. Then faired it with fairing compound. Primer then marine paint not gel coat. Looking back I should’ve gone with gelcoat.
I’m extremely satisfied at the results of the transom. I won’t ever have to worry about it again. If I do it again, I’m using arjay from FGCI! Glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for the comment.
liked, and subscribed! First video I saw
Thank you so much! We really appreciate you watching and subscribing! 🤙
The minute I saw "replacing the transom" I already knew you would never want to do it again.
🤣🤣🤣
Man you have put a lot of work into that boat.
Yes sir! We’ve put a lot of blood sweat and tears! 🤣
Its a Grady White...gotta take care of good stuff1
That’s right!
Anyway I always use epoxy based fairing compound. I do like your channel tho. I’m a subscriber now
Thank you so much! We appreciate that! 🤙
Super sick!
Thanks man! 🤘
Great job!! Can you tell me how many gallons you used? My boat is a very similar size. Keep up the great content!!
Hey Mike! Thanks for the comment!
So we used 4 5 gallon drums and had to mic an additional 2 gallons I’d say. So 22 gallons! Thank you bud!🤙
If there is rot in the back. Can you find rot also in sides or bottom?
Do you mean like in the deck or stringers? If so, yes. We found plenty of that and replaced it! 🤙
There's something else which would really make the boat look sharp - a new rub rail. They come in many styles & materials, and are easy to put on - use a heat gun to soften the base track so that it conforms to the hull contour. Plus when you take the old one off, you get to see how the hull / cap plate seam is doing - and reseal it if needed. I pulled all the screws on mine and resealed the entire seam. The rub rail I used was a 2" wide all rubber by Tessilmare, sold by Go2Marine. Most manufacturers have videos to describe the entire process - the boat looks like new - and you can bang almost anything because the cap material is all rubber.
That’s definitely on our list of things to do! Once we paint/gelcoat the topside and fix all the dings, we’re going to install a new rub rail. I’ll check out that company you mentioned. Just not sure what color or style we should go with. Thanks for the tip!🤙
the all rubber is available in white or black - I did the white ( on a tan hull ) and it looks very sharp. @@perfectfitboating
I’m liking the all white! It’ll make it look a lot more modern! 🤙
Quick ?. What was the total weight gain going with the 4 stroke, pour transom and the bracket delete?
Hard to tell. This boat had a fiberglass bracket that weighed maybe 250 and it had a 2 stroke evinrude that weighs maybe 450. Carbon core is lighter than wood. Not sure off the top of my head by how much. But the new four stoke weighs 600. We also got rid of the bracket so I think we’re about the same as when we started. Scuppers stay above the water line even with two people standing at the stern. 🤙
I'm not sure if mentioned in the video how much doing it that way cost but could you please give me an idea as my hearing let's me down occasionally and for planning or costing purposes. Thanks I did enjoy your presentation. Cheers Mick.
Hey mick! Thanks for the comment. The cost for the project was around $1500 for this size of boat. We actually have another transom video coming out next week. We do a smaller Grady white 19 and we take the skin off the INSIDE of the transom this time. We’re going to do a breakdown of cost AND we’re going to have an extended detailed version for sale for anyone that wants to actually do it themselves in case you’re interested! Thanks for watching! 🤙
Thanks for responding. Are you guys in Australia or USA? Just did online search and there seems to be no product available and no distributor. They can send by water from Florida but expensive.
As lot of people are after this now it seems in Australia by the comments and forums. All asking the same question. Where can we get it locally. Same questions you would have had. Looking forward to your response. Cheers Mick
Can't you just work the volume by measuring everything and multiply it out and convert it to gallons/litres? CHEERS MICK
We’re in the states. Fortunately, we have a local dealer just 40 minutes away. Check out arjay 6011. It’s the same product. They’re on Amazon and that’s what we use on the new video I mentioned. Email me if you have anymore questions. I’m happy to help! 🤙
You absolutely could.