I'm amazed at how much I've learned in just the two weeks that I've subscribed to this channel from Professor Zolly and the other fans here. Thank You.
The sewing / hobby sections of WalMart sell Velcro patches (ie, "hook-and-loop" connectors), the size of postage stamps. You could stick the "hook stamp" to the drone and the "loop stamp" to the battery, making the battery easily removable.
I was thinking of using a servo, but I found this to be simpler to make (for me). Otherwise I see the superiority of that solution of course as it drops instantly :)
😄 Nice work... from my suggestion, you can use VAPE COIL or NICHROME wire to replace the heating resistor.. it will work fast enough to melt small plastic zip tie. 👍👍👍
@@danilodistefanis5990 no, using light sensor as a switch, not a resistor.. so that can be activated when the drone light turn on, and the heating coil will get hot to melt litlte plastic tie attach to payload
i think also can be done with small neodim magnet mounted on gimbal and hall sensor,that activated by magnetic field of magnet when gimbal in lovest position angle 0° for example
Yes!👍 And that is one of the ways it can be done on the Mavic Mini (because it does not have front LED). My only problem with that method is if you want to aim where to drop, you need to look down. Like this you can aim as long as you want and drop precisely. :)
Hi, thanks a lot for the video, I will make my version of your reset with a servo, the idea with the resistor is awesome, but I want to try to make it with a servo and print a case for the electronics
I did exactly the same for my mavic pro, except I hard wired it across its led. I also used a servo to do the dropping, this works fine as the mavic pro can carry more weight.
Very nice idea!! I really like it. I saw you taking off and flying with low/no satellites locked in. Make sure to update the home point before flying to make sure the drone won't fly away on its own :)
The idea is great, the implementation is more than affordable! It's not the first time I've seen you take off from a dusty road, this is a big risk for damage to the gimbal mechanics from fine dust.
Excellent idea! I was making a pylon dropper for the mini 1 and was going to control it with a cheap android phone but this is a much simpler solution now that we have an led on board :)
@@ZollyD I went straight to servos. Heating a resistor and hot glue is way clever. Can’t believe I have all the parts sitting here to make one and it never crossed my mind. I feel stupid 😂
I am looking for a device that allows me to pull a leaf from a tree. I need to take samples from leaves. Could think of a hook to pull leaves or fragments of leaves from trees?
I am not the best with mechatronics as you can tell from my solutions...🤷♂️ I would anyway recommend not a hook, because if you get stuck and you pull the drone can tilt out of balance too much so you get an IMU error and the props stop. Maybe a mini scissors-like mechanism to cut the leaves and let it fall and collect? I don´t know, just rambling... 😂
The heat trigger part is avoidable. I would use a microcontroller to activate a servo which moves a scissors. My problem is alwayd the mechanical part. I have to learn this. But the channel Howtomechatronics has a lot of good tutorials. Check there. 🙂
Do you get any errors from the mini 2 like propeller rotating too fast when carrying a payload? I reached out to dji and they told me that this little drone doesn’t like any weight and that’s why it triggers the error. I’ve seen it s few times and sometimes I don’t.
Awesome!!! I would like to add you this simple solution by … Adding a small magnetic slide operating on the current vs the heated release. Seems we could use a lightweight slide rod (a stickpin shaft) .. a weak permanent magnet and an electrical magnet to get the job done…
Aeesome I"d like to do it I owe a dji myny 3 pro but you cant disable led lights via its remote control Is there anyway to solve the problem? In order to make such project?
Hey Zolly, always great hacks 👍. Perhaps you can also deal with the MA 2 battery self-discharge problem. Many MA2 owners complain about this. The battery simply discharges too quickly. There is definitely a way you can point out how to slow it down or stop it. Keep it up, the videos and explanations are great! Greetings from Germany
Thanks! :) I would need a battery to say for sure, but these self discharge things (If you mean that the battery after a while on purpose discharges itself for safety reasons) all work the same way. Ususally a MOSFET turns on and start to discharge the cell via a resistor. Solution 1: delay the MOSFET to open with a pre defined time. (few ours, days) Solution 2: Change the resistor to a bigger value so it discharges slower. Solution 3: Combination of the 2 above Solution 4: The voltage to which the cells are discaharged can also be adjusted. So it does not discharge to 3.7V but only to 3.95v I would probably prefer the last one as it is an important safety feature to not have LiPos fully charged. :)
If the light can be pulsed by the pilot, several functions could be crudely implemented with a microcontroller on the drone. I don't have a DJI drone (yet) so I'm not sure if it's possible or not...
Correct. Unfortunately the pulsing method is so unreliable that it is not relly working well. I made a video with using a color sensor on the front LED. That gave 10 different functionalities to the setup. Which is plenty I think. 😊
U can mount a hook on the drone's bottom - moving forward and then backward u ll initiate the move/energy which will drop the load. I used that at countryside around New year's eve to drop some firecrackers and IT worked for me😂🤷... but be careful at people and animals around, and use a rope long enough for the load or... 💸
Do you know of any commercially available payload dropper/package thrower for Mini 2 that uses the drone's LED light so that OcuSync range is achieved? Any links highly appreciated
There is a 360 turn activated dropper that is light weight andcan be strapped to the drone made by STARTRC for around 20$ and it works at the distance of the drone, simply attach it switch to normal mode and spin for 10 seconds and it releases the payload
Wow! Nice...👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 An amazing video buddy... From a drone pilot to a drone pilot. 😎😎😎 I wish you to continue the success with interesting and useful content to all... Please be consistent to produce interesting videos in the future... Keep it up! Don't give up! Come and support! ✌🏻😉👍🏻
Great idea but instead of using heat to release the payload , why not use a small solenoid instead ? (instant release, uses less power and more reliable).
You are right! I was thinking about it. I had no solenoid home. Had a servo, but I did not want to use microcontrollers to keep it simple. Plus for the solenoid it would be nice to have some 3D printed parts, which I do not have. So all in all it was simpler for me to do it like this. :) One day maybe I do a refined version!? ;)
Thanks! 🙂 Yeah thereabouts. It was fine. Just took a bit more time to lock onto satellites, but after that was fine. In my battery mod videos I also put relatively big LiPo cells on the top of the drone and even then it works fine. 🙂
Hi zolly can you tell me what mosfet would work with a 2 resistor setup except not resistor but special wire that gets red hot I used the one listed here but burnt up after 10 uses with 2 Lipo 3.7 400 batteries in series I was thinking about 2 mosfet one for each side but idk
2 mosfets on the 2 side will not work. The Mosfet used is quite beefy already. You have to change the red hot wire to a thinner one, which blows in a very short time to not fry the Mosfet.
🇷🇺👋😁👍🚁 this is an ingenious solution, as an electric lock with a motor and gears is not needed. No extra weight as the construction is lightweight but I would use a piece of thin copper wire that would simply burn out when electricity is applied to it 😁
Thanks! :) Yes, that was my first version as well, I mention it in the end of the video, but I had 2 problems with it. 1. I did not want fire hazardous temperatures even for a fraction of a second. 2. the thin copper wire was more prone to break due to the wind swinging the payload. So I went with this method. And imagine to just tap into the drone battery, (of course then the bottom resistor has to be 47 Ohms) then no need for extra battery cell. The 200 mA current draw will not kick the BMS. :) Than we are under 249 grams (of course without payload, which is the whole purpose of the thing! ) 😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks! :) No, as I say in the disclaimer: "It is for entertainment and educational purpose." If I ever get into the manufacturing stage, it would need to be a much more refined product (I think). The parts are easy to get anywhere though... ;)
@@ZollyD The project is fine. Many like to build devices on their own but do not know which parts and where to get them. Just order a couple and send me pieces by mail. I can design and promote the concept. Your video is an excellent manual already!
First I thoug what a overdimensioned transistor, later I saw the reason why. I found a construction error. The GPS of the Mavic Mini 2 is in the middle of the chasis. You put there the external battery. Put the external batterie over the internal battery on the back of the chassis then you will recive GPS signal. And I would glue the transistor on the external batterie and not on the drone. Makes it easier to remove all, only one glue point. But nice idea to use remote LED lights with a fotodiode. Btw. in Germany (and Europe?) it is for security reasons forbidden to have a drone that can drop things.
Hello Zolly.. I hope you are well today. I was wondering if. You separated the mini 2 and the controller far apart (2km) on the ground and turned them on would they bind?
Hey Zolly, thanks for the video great information. So I opened up my Mini 2 and checked the wiring from the PCB to the front LED, thinking I could just run some electronics direct from that instead of using the photo diode. The connector from the front LED has 3 wires, 1 ground and 2 positive 5V leads. What is odd is they are 'always on' and always provide 5V signal even if the LED light is turned on or off with the controller. Do you know anything about this?
Yes. 1 is ground and 1 is 5v supply. The third one which seems to be 5v is a high frequency data line. Those front LEDs are not being driven directly. The data line is being decoded on the LED end and thus provide the proper color. The databus is very fast. I think it was 6 bytes of data in a packet every millisecond.
If you dropped a tiny Wicked Witch of the West, the WWW should have a small playback device that triggers and says: "Ohhh! You cursed brat! Look what you've done! I'm melting!"
😂😂😂😂😂 Fun fact: I lived in Sweden for 11 years and we had a good friend there who we called the Wicked Witch of the North! 😂😂 I showed your comment to my wife and she was laughing hard! 😂😂
Hey Bud, i just found your question, You can safely use a basic 25w~30w soldeing Iron & a easy to work with & cheap Solder wire is a 60/40 Alloy - Flux core - 1.25mm Solder for this project & the majority of the worlds cct board built electronics !
Amazon will now hire you, the Mad Scientist Zolly, as head of the Drone Delivery Department and you will get to hire minions to run your hot glue sticks!
Nice solution...I saw another simpler... hook with a small curve, so the drone tilted towards the hook, and the cargo ring slides. This allows for four separate small payloads...the drone tilts towards the front, rear, left and right and each package can be unloaded independently...
Thanks! :) The problem with that solution is that during flight one can do a move which releases a payload without wanting it... otherwise it is cool...
The hot resistance is a fantastic idea! You are a genius
😂😂 Thanks! Nicola Tesla was a genius... But thanks anyway 😉
I'm amazed at how much I've learned in just the two weeks that I've subscribed to this channel from Professor Zolly and the other fans here. Thank You.
I am happy to hear! :)
I love that ppl do videos like this for ppl like me looking to take existing tech to another level for another purpose :)
The sewing / hobby sections of WalMart sell Velcro patches (ie, "hook-and-loop" connectors), the size of postage stamps. You could stick the "hook stamp" to the drone and the "loop stamp" to the battery, making the battery easily removable.
That's an absolutely genius concept! Thank you for sharing!
Awesome setup! Thanks for sharing. I would change the heating glue concept with a tiny servo.
I was thinking of using a servo, but I found this to be simpler to make (for me). Otherwise I see the superiority of that solution of course as it drops instantly :)
A servo requires complex electronic signals, but a small selanoid would work.
😄 Nice work... from my suggestion, you can use VAPE COIL or NICHROME wire to replace the heating resistor.. it will work fast enough to melt small plastic zip tie. 👍👍👍
i am already try it on my Mjx mew4-1 drone, and it works nicely
@@fixedkeysinteresting ! Where can I get it ? Does it go connected directly where the resistor should be ?
@@danilodistefanis5990 no, using light sensor as a switch, not a resistor.. so that can be activated when the drone light turn on, and the heating coil will get hot to melt litlte plastic tie attach to payload
Orange color in the menu works best for me. I've been trying to feed some ducks in a local swamp but so far I've only fed turtles! LOL
😂 Keep on feeding them.. ;)
I'd never had thought of that. Good job!
Thanks! :)
i think also can be done with small neodim magnet mounted on gimbal and hall sensor,that activated by magnetic field of magnet when gimbal in lovest position angle 0° for example
Yes!👍 And that is one of the ways it can be done on the Mavic Mini (because it does not have front LED). My only problem with that method is if you want to aim where to drop, you need to look down. Like this you can aim as long as you want and drop precisely. :)
Wow very ingenious. I’m going to attempt this.
Hi!
How did it go?
Hi, thanks a lot for the video, I will make my version of your reset with a servo, the idea with the resistor is awesome, but I want to try to make it with a servo and print a case for the electronics
Brilliant idea. If ever I get time I will try to make a strapable package. Also maybe try a 1.7g miniature servo.
Thanks! :) Great. Keep us updated about the project! :)
Hello ! You got any updates ? I’m thinking about a servo too.
This is great :) for fun purposes (even if not allowed in the EU) great mod!
Thanks, a new vid on this will come soon...🙂
Very cool... concept.
Need to move that away for the heated resister and into a opening clamp actuator and then sell them!
Thanks! :) Yeah for sure if I ever want to sell these I will not go with the same setup.😅😅This was more of a concept on the actual trigger... :)
@Zolly this is cool. What would be even cooler is if you sold a variant of this mod. 😁
I did exactly the same for my mavic pro, except I hard wired it across its led. I also used a servo to do the dropping, this works fine as the mavic pro can carry more weight.
Yeah, it is better that way, I just wanted to do it in a way to not void warranty. 🙂
I got out the attachment arm for my robotic arm which i 3d printed from thingiverse the mg90s servo and the plastic for the gripper arm is only 29g
@@sshutupurface8345 cool 🙂
Hi guys. Anyway I can purchase one of these ready made?
@@walterjohnson2961 you can buy anything these days, but the saving of money and making it yourself is far more enjoyable. 💸💸😁
When i taped a standard caylume light stick under the belly of my mini 2 it barely took off, you have much more weight then a caylume stick... amazing
Incredibly light cheap and smart solution !
Thanks. I will soon release a more sophisticated version, which is much more user friendly. It will naturally weigh more though..🙃
Very nice idea!! I really like it. I saw you taking off and flying with low/no satellites locked in. Make sure to update the home point before flying to make sure the drone won't fly away on its own :)
Thanks! :) Yeah, it was acting a bit strange. You see... This is how great I am at these things... :D :D
Awesome video project, genius workaround I really like 👍 it very simple no hassle 🤩
Thanks! :) I am happy that you like it. :)
The idea is great, the implementation is more than affordable! It's not the first time I've seen you take off from a dusty road, this is a big risk for damage to the gimbal mechanics from fine dust.
Thanks! :) You see, I am in a way a noob regarding drones! 😂 I did not even think that it is bad for it. I learned something. Thanks! 👍
I think he knows that way better than you think....lol
@@pc-easy I have no doubt that the author knows, but this is a bad example to follow, not everyone who looks thinks about it.
It is also not good to fly in fog
Excellent idea! I was making a pylon dropper for the mini 1 and was going to control it with a cheap android phone but this is a much simpler solution now that we have an led on board :)
Thanks! :) Yeah the LED is the gamechanger there. :)
@@ZollyD I went straight to servos. Heating a resistor and hot glue is way clever. Can’t believe I have all the parts sitting here to make one and it never crossed my mind. I feel stupid 😂
😂😂 Hey, none of my subscribers are stupid! I stand for you guys! And I agree that the servos are better it is just more complicated. :)
Some random farmer: why is there rice growing on 1 corner of my field?
HAHAHA
The Mini 2 SE has no front LED light, but im willing to bet it has pins for the output on the board?
Can you use power from usb c (from drones plugs) and conect it to that diode to switch servo on off?
I am looking for a device that allows me to pull a leaf from a tree. I need to take samples from leaves. Could think of a hook to pull leaves or fragments of leaves from trees?
I am not the best with mechatronics as you can tell from my solutions...🤷♂️ I would anyway recommend not a hook, because if you get stuck and you pull the drone can tilt out of balance too much so you get an IMU error and the props stop. Maybe a mini scissors-like mechanism to cut the leaves and let it fall and collect? I don´t know, just rambling... 😂
@@ZollyD Indeed, a hook is bad. I could be a sort of scissors activated by some spring activated by the optical activated heating-trigger.
The heat trigger part is avoidable. I would use a microcontroller to activate a servo which moves a scissors. My problem is alwayd the mechanical part. I have to learn this. But the channel Howtomechatronics has a lot of good tutorials. Check there. 🙂
Dear Professor Sir Zolly The Greatest!!!!
:D :D :D
Do you get any errors from the mini 2 like propeller rotating too fast when carrying a payload? I reached out to dji and they told me that this little drone doesn’t like any weight and that’s why it triggers the error. I’ve seen it s few times and sometimes I don’t.
Awesome!!!
I would like to add you this simple solution by …
Adding a small magnetic slide operating on the current vs the heated release. Seems we could use a lightweight slide rod (a stickpin shaft) .. a weak permanent magnet and an electrical magnet to get the job done…
True. I will soon release a version with a servo. And a little extra function. It will be awesome!😊
@@ZollyD Did you do it?
@@ZollyDwe’re waiting for the servo version !!
What if you replace the hot glue with a micro servo.... when it receive voltages it will open up? This way will be instant drop.
It would totally work! :) I just showed a concept and you guys do the rest of the thinking! :)
Aeesome
I"d like to do it
I owe a dji myny 3 pro but you cant disable led lights via its remote control
Is there anyway to solve the problem? In order to make such project?
Excellent idea great job.
Thanks! :) I am happy you liked it! :)
Hey Zolly,
always great hacks 👍.
Perhaps you can also deal with the MA 2 battery self-discharge problem. Many MA2 owners complain about this. The battery simply discharges too quickly. There is definitely a way you can point out how to slow it down or stop it. Keep it up, the videos and explanations are great!
Greetings from Germany
Thanks! :) I would need a battery to say for sure, but these self discharge things (If you mean that the battery after a while on purpose discharges itself for safety reasons) all work the same way. Ususally a MOSFET turns on and start to discharge the cell via a resistor.
Solution 1: delay the MOSFET to open with a pre defined time. (few ours, days)
Solution 2: Change the resistor to a bigger value so it discharges slower.
Solution 3: Combination of the 2 above
Solution 4: The voltage to which the cells are discaharged can also be adjusted. So it does not discharge to 3.7V but only to 3.95v
I would probably prefer the last one as it is an important safety feature to not have LiPos fully charged.
:)
If I want to make this as light as possible, what do you think is the smallest battery that I could use?
Great! What a creative idea! Like it!
can i use a servo with this method instead of heating a resistor
How would you connect to the circuit ?
Oh yeah man.. I thought of this arrangement to drop. But you did it! I would love to talk to you sometime.. You are amazing!
Thanks! My wife would also like to talk to to me sometimes.. 😂😂😂😂 But you can write an E-mail if you want! :)
I was thinking to use micron wire and the inside of paracord
Fun project!
And you got yourself a new subscriber! 🙌🤩
Thanks! :) And welcome to the gang!😊
“I could feed birds “ 😂😂😂😂
:D
What to do with mini SE 2 , it doesn’t have a front led .
Hi, where u could get the tap foil and the black one?
Instead of the heat resistor try a fine copper wire coil that pulls in a steel pin when electrified which then releases the load.
Totally doable! :) I just showed a concept and you guys do the rest of the thinking! :)
If the light can be pulsed by the pilot, several functions could be crudely implemented with a microcontroller on the drone. I don't have a DJI drone (yet) so I'm not sure if it's possible or not...
Correct. Unfortunately the pulsing method is so unreliable that it is not relly working well. I made a video with using a color sensor on the front LED. That gave 10 different functionalities to the setup. Which is plenty I think. 😊
U can mount a hook on the drone's bottom - moving forward and then backward u ll initiate the move/energy which will drop the load. I used that at countryside around New year's eve to drop some firecrackers and IT worked for me😂🤷... but be careful at people and animals around, and use a rope long enough for the load or... 💸
What type of hook?
@@freddyfz0976 an L profile, just try it until u reach the perfect profile, simple dynamics :)
@@andreistefan2167 thanks !
Do you know of any commercially available payload dropper/package thrower for Mini 2 that uses the drone's LED light so that OcuSync range is achieved? Any links highly appreciated
There is a 360 turn activated dropper that is light weight andcan be strapped to the drone made by STARTRC for around 20$ and it works at the distance of the drone, simply attach it switch to normal mode and spin for 10 seconds and it releases the payload
great video really interesting !
Enjoyed watching and learning. Thanks for sharing. Liked and subbed. Best regards from the Philippines.
Thanks! 🙂 I am happy that you found it useful. Welcome to the gang. Cheers from Hungary. 😊
Wow! Nice...👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
An amazing video buddy... From a drone pilot to a drone pilot. 😎😎😎 I wish you to continue the success with interesting and useful content to all... Please be consistent to produce interesting videos in the future... Keep it up! Don't give up! Come and support! ✌🏻😉👍🏻
Thanks! 🙂 More to come!😉
Thanks! It worked fine on my mini 2
Great!😊
why I do have to put a 47k resistance on the mosfet ?
Nice solutions 👍😀
Thanks! 🙂
Excellent idea!
Thanks! 🙂
Great idea but instead of using heat to release the payload , why not use a small solenoid instead ? (instant release, uses less power and more reliable).
You are right! I was thinking about it. I had no solenoid home. Had a servo, but I did not want to use microcontrollers to keep it simple. Plus for the solenoid it would be nice to have some 3D printed parts, which I do not have. So all in all it was simpler for me to do it like this. :) One day maybe I do a refined version!? ;)
Great video. By the way where you put the mosfet, I think underneath is the gps antenna. Do you think it blocks the signal in any way?
Thanks! 🙂 Yeah thereabouts. It was fine. Just took a bit more time to lock onto satellites, but after that was fine. In my battery mod videos I also put relatively big LiPo cells on the top of the drone and even then it works fine. 🙂
Hi zolly can you tell me what mosfet would work with a 2 resistor setup except not resistor but special wire that gets red hot
I used the one listed here but burnt up after 10 uses with 2 Lipo 3.7 400 batteries in series
I was thinking about 2 mosfet one for each side but idk
2 mosfets on the 2 side will not work. The Mosfet used is quite beefy already. You have to change the red hot wire to a thinner one, which blows in a very short time to not fry the Mosfet.
Nice job ! I didn't think there would be enough gain in the BPW34, but apparently so. Cheers
Yes there is! :) Thanks
Nice video Sir 👍
Thank you Sir! :)
🇷🇺👋😁👍🚁
this is an ingenious solution, as an electric lock with a motor and gears is not needed.
No extra weight as the construction is lightweight
but I would use a piece of thin copper wire that would simply burn out when electricity is applied to it 😁
Thanks! :) Yes, that was my first version as well, I mention it in the end of the video, but I had 2 problems with it.
1. I did not want fire hazardous temperatures even for a fraction of a second.
2. the thin copper wire was more prone to break due to the wind swinging the payload.
So I went with this method.
And imagine to just tap into the drone battery, (of course then the bottom resistor has to be 47 Ohms) then no need for extra battery cell. The 200 mA current draw will not kick the BMS. :) Than we are under 249 grams (of course without payload, which is the whole purpose of the thing! ) 😂😂😂😂😂
Do you have a version of this tutorial that will work with the Mini 3?
I do not possess a Mini3 so I have no chance of experimentation! Anyone? Wanna send me a Mini 3? :)
Excelent! Could you offer it as a kit?
Thanks! :) No, as I say in the disclaimer: "It is for entertainment and educational purpose." If I ever get into the manufacturing stage, it would need to be a much more refined product (I think). The parts are easy to get anywhere though... ;)
@@ZollyD The project is fine. Many like to build devices on their own but do not know which parts and where to get them. Just order a couple and send me pieces by mail. I can design and promote the concept. Your video is an excellent manual already!
@@AprendereV you pull this off I'll be your first customer. 😉
First I thoug what a overdimensioned transistor, later I saw the reason why. I found a construction error. The GPS of the Mavic Mini 2 is in the middle of the chasis. You put there the external battery. Put the external batterie over the internal battery on the back of the chassis then you will recive GPS signal. And I would glue the transistor on the external batterie and not on the drone. Makes it easier to remove all, only one glue point. But nice idea to use remote LED lights with a fotodiode. Btw. in Germany (and Europe?) it is for security reasons forbidden to have a drone that can drop things.
Good input. As I said in the vid, there is a lot of space for improvement! 😂
This is so exciting
🙂 Glad you like it!
I have the se I don’t have a light on the front
Can you post a link where you can buy all the required parts?
No list for the parts. You can look it up online, or hit me up on Facebook!
Hello Zolly.. I hope you are well today. I was wondering if. You separated the mini 2 and the controller far apart (2km) on the ground and turned them on would they bind?
Hi! It works as far as the controller can each. At ground level the reception is way-way worse when you do not have visual line of sight.
Hey Zolly, thanks for the video great information. So I opened up my Mini 2 and checked the wiring from the PCB to the front LED, thinking I could just run some electronics direct from that instead of using the photo diode. The connector from the front LED has 3 wires, 1 ground and 2 positive 5V leads. What is odd is they are 'always on' and always provide 5V signal even if the LED light is turned on or off with the controller. Do you know anything about this?
It’s most probably ground pulsed
Yes. 1 is ground and 1 is 5v supply. The third one which seems to be 5v is a high frequency data line. Those front LEDs are not being driven directly. The data line is being decoded on the LED end and thus provide the proper color. The databus is very fast. I think it was 6 bytes of data in a packet every millisecond.
Boa Noite amigo
Passando para prestigiar aquele super like 🤜🤛✌
Thanks! :)
If you dropped a tiny Wicked Witch of the West, the WWW should have a small playback device that triggers and says: "Ohhh! You cursed brat! Look what you've done! I'm melting!"
😂😂😂😂😂 Fun fact: I lived in Sweden for 11 years and we had a good friend there who we called the Wicked Witch of the North! 😂😂 I showed your comment to my wife and she was laughing hard! 😂😂
Amazing!
Thanks!
A rocket ignitor would be perfect for this setup
Hi again I have everything to try this soon and I have a Lipo 3.7 400ma battery will that be sufficient?
Yes it is. 😊 But I see that you already built it and I advised on you other comment. Cheers
Hey Zolly! Really awesome video, was wondering what Soldering iron you used to connect all of your wires in this video? Looks super simple and fast.
Hey Bud, i just found your question, You can safely use a basic 25w~30w soldeing Iron & a easy to work with & cheap Solder wire is a 60/40 Alloy - Flux core - 1.25mm Solder for this project & the majority of the worlds cct board built electronics !
Great idea! Neat!
Thanks Mate! :)
I see you went through a few vids... ;)
Yeah just seeing what you’re up to.
Amazon will now hire you, the Mad Scientist Zolly, as head of the Drone Delivery Department and you will get to hire minions to run your hot glue sticks!
HAHAHAHAHA! 😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
Nice solution...I saw another simpler... hook with a small curve, so the drone tilted towards the hook, and the cargo ring slides. This allows for four separate small payloads...the drone tilts towards the front, rear, left and right and each package can be unloaded independently...
Where can I find this hook?
@@900distribution7 Nowhere...DIY, four low curved hooks.
@@semproniodensso3353 is there a video showing the process?
Video on how?!
Thanks! :)
The problem with that solution is that during flight one can do a move which releases a payload without wanting it... otherwise it is cool...
Cool..subscribed🤟
Thanks! :) Welcome to the gang! ;)
Good information sir 👍
Thank you!
hi zowy How much weight can be lifted
around 230 grams!
nice!
Thanks! :)
Is it copper cable?
yes
Can you put links to buy these
Hit me up on Facebook!
its a long fuse, how about using servo?
Yes, that is better. I just wanted to keep it as simple as possible. :)
Hi there! Do you take orders? I have no clue about how to make this, i would happily pay 50€ + shipping for this amazing creation
Not yet... ;)
subscribing for the comedic value
😂😂😂
Nice.. can be used to drop a fire cracker :))
LOL! :)
super zolly, but I would like its silk easy to install and simpler for the same result.
its all a paraphernalia
ok
El chapo wants to meet you
I am too busy to meet him! ;)
Will it hold what they drop in Ukraine?
very little weight lifts
Love u from Iraq
Thanks! :) Now you made my wife jealous! 😂😂
@@ZollyD
In Islamic culture we say love u
Its meant like u don't worry there is no gay
No worries! I understood you! :) Thanks! :)
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks! :)
1st 😁👍
Yes indeed! :)
Ugyes vagy. Csinalnal nekem is egyet ?
Köszi! Irj Facebookon! :)
The "feed birds" thingy is not a good idea😂😂
Work smart not hard 😎👍
Agreed! :) And Thanks!
Can you make me one 😢😅
Please.. 🙏
Türkçe dil lütfen ( alt yazılar türkçe çeviri yap lütfen )
Just put on auto translate! It works for me! :)
@@ZollyD I couldn't see it in automatic translation Turkish language 😔
Time to deliver weed to customers...
HAHA. Am I happy for my disclaimer? 😂
??????
such a weird way to do it
Yeah.. 😂😂😂