I use Wipe-On poly a lot. For a four coat finish, I wait 2-3 hours between 1st and 2nd coats, 3+ hours between 2nd and 3rd and overnight between 3rd and fourth. I only sand after the 3rd coat and you'll know that its dry when your 220 grit sanding sponges creates a white powder. It's not ready when you feel little tacky spheres and no white powder. The 4th coat goes on like wiping glass. I apply as much as I can without leaving puddles on every coat. For more depth that completely fills the grain, I sometimes do up to seven coats and always sand before the final coat and at three coats. Usually only seven coats are done on table or furniture tops. Poly is much more durable than most non-poly finishes and although the solvent base Wipe-On looks better than water based poly, it does add some yellow/brown tint but that really pops on walnut and white oak. Brushing is a pain and you need to know what you're doing not to leave brush marks. Spraying would probably be the best, if you have the setup.
Glad I am not the only person that repurposes old t-shirts like this! Great overview of the whole process! As a heads up- you can make your own wipe-on poly by mixing 50:50 polyurethane and mineral spirits. I fill an old water bottle with as much as I need for a project.
Had the brilliant idea of refininshing my kitchen table. OMG so much work but I'm so happy with how it came out. I went from a yellow oak color to classic black stain. It looks AWESOME. I originally used polycrylic top coat and it was a DISASTER. I'm so glad I found this video because you SAVED ME!!!!!!!! I'm about to start my 3rd coat and it already looks amazing!!
I saw your video AFTER I did my projects. I did use a lint free cloth but it was streaky on 1st & 2nd coat. I loved your video but I found out that I should have folded my cloth so there would be no edges. So will try again and see if that works better. I only have 220 sandpaper so will need to buy the higher grit.
I do this using polyacrylic. I find I don't have as much sanding to do. I also don't do the 600 grit paper to do that last sand. I just lightly sand with a 120 , wipe clean . Then, take brown paper , I reuse the paper that Amazon packs some things with to ship. Ball it up and then rub it in circles over the finish until you get a beautiful smooth finish. It adds a nice light sheen and feels as soft as a babies bottom. 😊
I am not sure I agree that there are better finishes at specialty stores. Minwax wipe on has been my go to for more years than I care to admit to. It used to come in a black and gold can and did not say "quick drying". This stuff in the silver and black can, the quick drying iteration, is ever better than the old stuff. As far as woodwork, I mostly turn bowls these days and typically put on 5 or 6 coats of Minwax. Contrary to what some have suggested, it is not necessary to wait 2-3 hours to recoat with this new stuff. I put a coat on every 30 minutes, let it polymerize overnight, and in the morning it is hard enough to lightly sand, and put on one or two more coats. I get a glasslike finish, even on open grain woods like the oak bowls I have been turning lately from locally fallen oaks. The old version did indeed need a couple hours between coats and several days before sanding and final finishing.
This is SO helpful. I’m new to furniture flipping and I cringe at the top coat process. Going to Home Depot this weekend to purchase Wipe on Poly. Thank you!! 🤍🤍
Looks amazing. I wish I had done this first instead of using varathane oil based polyurethane because I now have bubbles and brush strokes that are visible. Can I sand down the polyurethane to get rid of the imperfections and then use wipe on poly? Even though there will be oil based poly underneath it that I applied with a brush?
In that case I would use Epoxy. If the holes aren't very deep you could use CA glue. Either way, fill it, let it dry and then sand flat and you'll be golden.
thanks for the video, very helpful. Question: I couldn't quite tell from the video - were you applying this to the top and bottom at the same time? If so, any issues with marks being left on it where it rested on those disks? Thanks!
Hi, I have a dinette table and I am terrified to use a brush on polyurethane. Can this method be used on a veneer top where the grain goes in different directions?
Great video. I’m going to use this stuff on a door. The brush on kind is driving me crazy. Sick of the brush marks and bubbles no matter how careful I am, watching what brush I’m using and all that. Done with it
@@DebtFreeDIY yeah it is much easier to use. Only issue I’m having is that I have brush streaks from the regular poly I used for the first coat. I’ve done a few coats of the wipe on sanding with 220 in between. Looks like it is kind of leveling off. Don’t really want to use the 220 anymore in between further coats. Might move to 320 now. Hoping further coats help. Doesn’t look awful to where I want to redo it all at least
Great, informative, and straight to the point! I'm using this method with Minwax's water-based poly (undiluted because it's already so thin) and am LOVING how smooth every coat is! Especially compared to my first two, which I brushed on and had to sand like crazy because of the bubbles. The note at around 3:15 about possibly needing up to 7 coats of real wipe-on poly has me a little stumped, though. I know that generally, you need more coats of water-based than oil-based, so does that mean I should be applying more than 7 coats for a high-traffic tabletop? If so, how many? Can someone please help out a total rookie?
It is based on the desired look you're wanting honestly. I find that I stop around 5 most of the time . But they go on thin and I don't want a super thick plastic-y look. Some people like that though. 🤷
@@DebtFreeDIY Thanks! I guess I was worried that the coats being so thin meant I'd need a dozen of them to prevent scratches and stains. If anyone's reading this in my same situation: 2 shitty brushed-on coats + probably too much sanding after them + 5 wiped-on coats + about 8 hours = my whitewashed butcher block tabletop survived the following experiments: - one-hour stain tests (chili oil, curry, shoe polish) - CUTTING on it?! (paring knife, paper plate, moderately firm pressure) - forceful writing on it with a steel 5mm mechanical pencil ... Yes, it's my first project, I'm very proud of the whitewash job, and I'm a little paranoid about ruining it lol 👩🏻🔬 thanks again, this channel is so helpful!
How do you guys not get streaks or overlap marks with a tshirt? No matter how light of a coat i use, it still gets streaks I switched to cheese cloth on it. Seems to be alittle better
I have an old buffet i just got off Craigslist. I thought it was solid wood until i started cleaning off all the dust and it turns out its wood veneer. Ugh. It has no finish on it. Maybe some remnants on the feet, but it's basically naked. I don't want to stain it, but it definitely needs a sealer. I'll probably do some sanding on the main surfaces to try and even out some coloring. But because the hardware is old, I'm nervous to take it apart at all to do anything. Do you think I can use the sealing technique (and product) from this video on vertical surfaces with some nooks and crannies? I really don't want to do a brush-on because I am sure it will drip and i wont be able to get it smooth in the ridges. But this is my first time doing this, so I'm nervous.
I absolutely think this will work. Like you said, the key to old pieces like that is lightly sand to even out the color from aging etc. But yes. We've used wipe on poly in that very way. You might want to try a sanding sponge if it has any detail or scroll work to sand around.
I’m getting around to trying this technique. Tell me what I’m doing wrong. After two coats I still see the marks from the rag. Am I putting it on to think or not thick enough. Thanks in advance for your help.
@@DebtFreeDIY I did sand it after the second coat. It didn’t seem to help much. The good news I started on the bottom first. Starting the top tomorrow. I’ll put a thinner coat and see how that works.
@@DebtFreeDIY I think I’ve found the problem. My local Home Depot didn’t have the minwax brand. They carry Watco, never heard of that brand. But, it was thick like straight up poly. It would get so tacky in about 30 seconds, it would rip the rag out of your hand. I started to just thin it out until it wiped on like I thought it should. But, I found one can of the minwax about 20 miles away in a little mom and pop Ace hardware. The minwax goes on just as advertised. I would stay away from the Watco brand for this technique. But, it does say wipe on. It may would have been OK after it was thinned. Thanks again for your help.
@@bobdrawbaugh4207 glad you got to the bottom of it! I have a video showing how to break down and make your own Wipe-On poly as well. Sort of like you're talking about. Basically mix with mineral spirits.
@@DebtFreeDIY the doors are 25 years old and had a polyurethane applied and it's just too expensive now to have someone remove it and redo them. Can a spar polyurethane be wiped on after removal of the old polyurethane. Isn't the wipe on easier
@@deborahnorred3562 wipe on poly is definitely easier. Spar Urethane must be applied with a brush. The Spar is just more designed for the elements. But if you know previously it was regular poly you'll probably be fine! 😊
Typically a lot of polyurethanes tend to make light pieces more amber or yellow. Polycrylic does not though. However it's water based. Don't know if that matters for you. There may be some other options beyond Polycrylic to prevent yellowing but I'm not certain what they are.
No, it doesn't. It will create a small fine powder that you will wipe off but that's it. And honestly you can take it higher than 600 if you want beyond that. It's totally up to you and how glass-like you want it...
@@DebtFreeDIY thank you for this good information. I did you the 600 grit and 800 and it came out so smooth but now i have the white residue left. I did get most of it up but it’s still some down there. How do i fix this? And also what do you recommend to clean the table everyday with? since it’s a dining table
@@MultiDancer2011 a damp cloth should remove the white residue. Also a lightly damp sponge is what we end up cleaning our polyurethane furniture with most of the time. Hope that helps!
@@robcopenhaver2800 I bet you'll have to reset your cookies and stuff on your device... It's pulling the old link back in. I verified its good. I'm putting the link here but it may get flagged by YT... amzn.to/3TItDVR
@@DebtFreeDIY I got it now, thanks. I have a butcher block top that I’m going to do a desk top in. I got it at Lowe’s and it comes pre-finished with Minwax espresso stain. Can I put this over that, or do I need to find out if the Minwax is water-based or oil based? On their website it says it’s ready for topcoat.
I'm using clear gloss. We find because the coats are so thin each application that you can kinda control it so it doesn't end up super plastic looking.
Hi Nicki, so because the coats go on so thin I find that sanding on the first coat tends to run the risk of sanding wood rather than imperfections in the finish. It tends to soak different in some places than in others on the first coat. Especially if you have a piece that's been stained, that can also result in sanding the stain which you really wouldn't want. Let me know if that didn't answer your question fully! 😊
Another video on UA-cam is "Don't buy Wipe-On Poly". Point of the video is you make your own at a much cheaper cost. Wipe on poly is nothing more than regular poly diluted with mineral spirits. So, buy regular poly, mineral spirits and mix 1:1 ratio.
I'm using water based Minwax and it's possible but lots of work. I brushed on 3 coats, hit it with 320 grit, then 3 more coats and hit it with 1500 grit. It's a lot and I mean a lot of sanding. The 1500 grit makes it feel like you're just using notebook paper but once you get it smoothed out, hit it with some Turtle wax then a buffing wheel. It'll look like glass but it's a lot of work!
Apply with a brush, straight out of the can. Two coats, then cut with a razor and sand with 220 grit, apply the next coat with 30% dilution, razor cut and sand, apply last coat with %50 dilution, sand with 400, wax, and you got a glass top.
I am currently using the same minwax product on a 78"x38"X2" butcher block powered desk project. I have a question for you. What is "Cut with a razor"? Also would you thin it with mineral spirits?
0:28 "...so yeah, there are things out there that are better but most of the time they're going to be found in a more speciality type store..." Seriously this is your effort requirement? Has to be at Home Depot or WalMart. Could order it online, but nah.
Realistically, most people aren't gonna do that. And personally I have no issue with Minwax Wipe-On. But this video was something for the average person that is just gonna run to Wally World, Lowes, or HD.
I use Wipe-On poly a lot. For a four coat finish, I wait 2-3 hours between 1st and 2nd coats, 3+ hours between 2nd and 3rd and overnight between 3rd and fourth. I only sand after the 3rd coat and you'll know that its dry when your 220 grit sanding sponges creates a white powder. It's not ready when you feel little tacky spheres and no white powder. The 4th coat goes on like wiping glass. I apply as much as I can without leaving puddles on every coat.
For more depth that completely fills the grain, I sometimes do up to seven coats and always sand before the final coat and at three coats. Usually only seven coats are done on table or furniture tops. Poly is much more durable than most non-poly finishes and although the solvent base Wipe-On looks better than water based poly, it does add some yellow/brown tint but that really pops on walnut and white oak.
Brushing is a pain and you need to know what you're doing not to leave brush marks. Spraying would probably be the best, if you have the setup.
Glad I am not the only person that repurposes old t-shirts like this! Great overview of the whole process!
As a heads up- you can make your own wipe-on poly by mixing 50:50 polyurethane and mineral spirits. I fill an old water bottle with as much as I need for a project.
Thanks Wayne! Good call on the homemade Wipe-On poly . I've never actually done that but I've heard it works great!
Had the brilliant idea of refininshing my kitchen table. OMG so much work but I'm so happy with how it came out. I went from a yellow oak color to classic black stain. It looks AWESOME. I originally used polycrylic top coat and it was a DISASTER. I'm so glad I found this video because you SAVED ME!!!!!!!! I'm about to start my 3rd coat and it already looks amazing!!
That's awesome! Glad it helped!
After you do the 600 grit, do you add your last coat?@@DebtFreeDIY
I used your t-shirt method to put coats on a gunstock I am refinishing, thanks for the tip
Thats a good tip for not sanding until 2nd coat with the wipe on because it applies so thin its really easy to knock down to grain
This is SUPER helpful! I have a homemade studio desk in my studio that’s still raw wood. So again your tips help! 😎👊
I saw your video AFTER I did my projects. I did use a lint free cloth but it was streaky on 1st & 2nd coat. I loved your video but I found out that I should have folded my cloth so there would be no edges. So will try again and see if that works better. I only have 220 sandpaper so will need to buy the higher grit.
I do this using polyacrylic. I find I don't have as much sanding to do. I also don't do the 600 grit paper to do that last sand. I just lightly sand with a 120 , wipe clean . Then, take brown paper , I reuse the paper that Amazon packs some things with to ship. Ball it up and then rub it in circles over the finish until you get a beautiful smooth finish. It adds a nice light sheen and feels as soft as a babies bottom. 😊
I came to UA-cam searching if I could use this way for polycrylic, so this does work?! Just wanted to make sure you meant polycrylic:)
@ash83syd1
I have only used the polyacrylic for finishing. So yes, it works with it also.
I am not sure I agree that there are better finishes at specialty stores. Minwax wipe on has been my go to for more years than I care to admit to. It used to come in a black and gold can and did not say "quick drying". This stuff in the silver and black can, the quick drying iteration, is ever better than the old stuff. As far as woodwork, I mostly turn bowls these days and typically put on 5 or 6 coats of Minwax. Contrary to what some have suggested, it is not necessary to wait 2-3 hours to recoat with this new stuff. I put a coat on every 30 minutes, let it polymerize overnight, and in the morning it is hard enough to lightly sand, and put on one or two more coats. I get a glasslike finish, even on open grain woods like the oak bowls I have been turning lately from locally fallen oaks. The old version did indeed need a couple hours between coats and several days before sanding and final finishing.
This is SO helpful. I’m new to furniture flipping and I cringe at the top coat process. Going to Home Depot this weekend to purchase Wipe on Poly. Thank you!! 🤍🤍
You're welcome! Good luck with your project!
Looks amazing. I wish I had done this first instead of using varathane oil based polyurethane because I now have bubbles and brush strokes that are visible. Can I sand down the polyurethane to get rid of the imperfections and then use wipe on poly? Even though there will be oil based poly underneath it that I applied with a brush?
Hi from South African vloggers 🇿🇦 😀 ❤️ 🌍
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I really love your wood stain color. Could you please share which color you stained with on that block ?
Hi thanks! It's Minwax Provincial.
Can I use this technique for polycrylic?
Can the wipe on Poly be used to fill a cavity in the wood? I have a piece of cypress with holes that I want to keep.
In that case I would use Epoxy. If the holes aren't very deep you could use CA glue. Either way, fill it, let it dry and then sand flat and you'll be golden.
Im doing interior doors, do i need to sand by hand or can i use a sander?
thanks for the video, very helpful. Question: I couldn't quite tell from the video - were you applying this to the top and bottom at the same time? If so, any issues with marks being left on it where it rested on those disks? Thanks!
So I would definitely let each side dry or use painters triangles if you want to do them at the same time.
Hi, I have a dinette table and I am terrified to use a brush on polyurethane. Can this method be used on a veneer top where the grain goes in different directions?
Great video. I’m going to use this stuff on a door. The brush on kind is driving me crazy. Sick of the brush marks and bubbles no matter how careful I am, watching what brush I’m using and all that. Done with it
Thanks Jay! I think you'll be happy with the results!
@@DebtFreeDIY yeah it is much easier to use. Only issue I’m having is that I have brush streaks from the regular poly I used for the first coat. I’ve done a few coats of the wipe on sanding with 220 in between. Looks like it is kind of leveling off. Don’t really want to use the 220 anymore in between further coats. Might move to 320 now. Hoping further coats help. Doesn’t look awful to where I want to redo it all at least
@@DebtFreeDIY do you think the streaks will go away with subsequent coats of this stuff?
@@jayk5731 gosh it's kinda hard to say. If it's that noticeable, maybe not? It might need sanded down. Sorry...
@@DebtFreeDIY luckily it seems to be getting better. I’m only at 2 coats of the wipe on so I still have some work to do on it
Great, informative, and straight to the point! I'm using this method with Minwax's water-based poly (undiluted because it's already so thin) and am LOVING how smooth every coat is! Especially compared to my first two, which I brushed on and had to sand like crazy because of the bubbles.
The note at around 3:15 about possibly needing up to 7 coats of real wipe-on poly has me a little stumped, though. I know that generally, you need more coats of water-based than oil-based, so does that mean I should be applying more than 7 coats for a high-traffic tabletop? If so, how many? Can someone please help out a total rookie?
It is based on the desired look you're wanting honestly. I find that I stop around 5 most of the time . But they go on thin and I don't want a super thick plastic-y look. Some people like that though. 🤷
@@DebtFreeDIY Thanks! I guess I was worried that the coats being so thin meant I'd need a dozen of them to prevent scratches and stains.
If anyone's reading this in my same situation: 2 shitty brushed-on coats + probably too much sanding after them + 5 wiped-on coats + about 8 hours = my whitewashed butcher block tabletop survived the following experiments:
- one-hour stain tests (chili oil, curry, shoe polish)
- CUTTING on it?! (paring knife, paper plate, moderately firm pressure)
- forceful writing on it with a steel 5mm mechanical pencil
... Yes, it's my first project, I'm very proud of the whitewash job, and I'm a little paranoid about ruining it lol 👩🏻🔬 thanks again, this channel is so helpful!
What would be better?
Will a flannel shirt work?
What colour did you stain your butcher block. I'm doing a desk top for a standing desk. Do you think 3 coats of wipe on ploy will be sufficient?
The stain is Minwax Provincial. For a desk I would probably go more than 3. But try 3 and if you need to add more you can.
Thanks for responding! @@DebtFreeDIY
Great tips on using this stuff man!
Thanks brother! 👊
How do you guys not get streaks or overlap marks with a tshirt? No matter how light of a coat i use, it still gets streaks
I switched to cheese cloth on it. Seems to be alittle better
Hey great content! How long do you wait in between coats?
It really depends on the temp and humidity. Usually a good couple hours
I have an old buffet i just got off Craigslist.
I thought it was solid wood until i started cleaning off all the dust and it turns out its wood veneer. Ugh.
It has no finish on it. Maybe some remnants on the feet, but it's basically naked. I don't want to stain it, but it definitely needs a sealer.
I'll probably do some sanding on the main surfaces to try and even out some coloring. But because the hardware is old, I'm nervous to take it apart at all to do anything.
Do you think I can use the sealing technique (and product) from this video on vertical surfaces with some nooks and crannies?
I really don't want to do a brush-on because I am sure it will drip and i wont be able to get it smooth in the ridges.
But this is my first time doing this, so I'm nervous.
I absolutely think this will work. Like you said, the key to old pieces like that is lightly sand to even out the color from aging etc. But yes. We've used wipe on poly in that very way. You might want to try a sanding sponge if it has any detail or scroll work to sand around.
Thank you so much!! Very reassuring to hear O:)
I’m getting around to trying this technique. Tell me what I’m doing wrong. After two coats I still see the marks from the rag. Am I putting it on to think or not thick enough. Thanks in advance for your help.
Possibly too thick? Have you tried sanding after that 2nd coat?
@@DebtFreeDIY I did sand it after the second coat. It didn’t seem to help much. The good news I started on the bottom first. Starting the top tomorrow. I’ll put a thinner coat and see how that works.
@@bobdrawbaugh4207 sounds good. I typically go pretty light on the coats
@@DebtFreeDIY I think I’ve found the problem. My local Home Depot didn’t have the minwax brand. They carry Watco, never heard of that brand. But, it was thick like straight up poly. It would get so tacky in about 30 seconds, it would rip the rag out of your hand. I started to just thin it out until it wiped on like I thought it should. But, I found one can of the minwax about 20 miles away in a little mom and pop Ace hardware. The minwax goes on just as advertised. I would stay away from the Watco brand for this technique. But, it does say wipe on. It may would have been OK after it was thinned. Thanks again for your help.
@@bobdrawbaugh4207 glad you got to the bottom of it! I have a video showing how to break down and make your own Wipe-On poly as well. Sort of like you're talking about. Basically mix with mineral spirits.
What would you suggest on outdoor French doors to be sanded back down and polyurethaned
If they're natural wood doors and not painted I'd probably look at a Spar Urethane if they're going to be exposed to the elements.
@@DebtFreeDIY the doors are 25 years old and had a polyurethane applied and it's just too expensive now to have someone remove it and redo them. Can a spar polyurethane be wiped on after removal of the old polyurethane. Isn't the wipe on easier
They have never had any paint applied to them just poly
@@deborahnorred3562 wipe on poly is definitely easier. Spar Urethane must be applied with a brush. The Spar is just more designed for the elements. But if you know previously it was regular poly you'll probably be fine! 😊
Thanks.
This video is a year old but do you remember what stain you used? I really like that color.
It's Minwax Provincial if I remember correctly
Dumb question. But you do not add an additional coat after the 600 grit? Correct?
Correct. After that 600, wioe it down and you're done.
Thank you for the response : )
So sorry. Wipe it down after the 600 grit with what?
Does the Minwax brand tend to yellow over white stains?
Typically a lot of polyurethanes tend to make light pieces more amber or yellow. Polycrylic does not though. However it's water based. Don't know if that matters for you. There may be some other options beyond Polycrylic to prevent yellowing but I'm not certain what they are.
@@DebtFreeDIYthank you! And thanks for the quick reply!
Can you use a foam roller?
No. It will bubble
Does the 600 grit sandpaper at the end leave a bunch of scratch marks?
No, it doesn't. It will create a small fine powder that you will wipe off but that's it. And honestly you can take it higher than 600 if you want beyond that. It's totally up to you and how glass-like you want it...
@@DebtFreeDIY thank you for the speedy reply!
Ca i add lacquer thinner on polyurethane ? To gave fast dry!?
You know, I honestly don't know the answer to that. Sorry...
I finished my dinning table with 8 coats. What do i do next? What comes after the final coat?
After that hit it with a high grit sandpaper (600+) and you're good to go!
@@DebtFreeDIY do i wait 24 hrs before doing that?
@@MultiDancer2011 no as long as it's dry. 24 hours wouldn't hurt though
@@DebtFreeDIY thank you for this good information. I did you the 600 grit and 800 and it came out so smooth but now i have the white residue left. I did get most of it up but it’s still some down there. How do i fix this? And also what do you recommend to clean the table everyday with? since it’s a dining table
@@MultiDancer2011 a damp cloth should remove the white residue. Also a lightly damp sponge is what we end up cleaning our polyurethane furniture with most of the time. Hope that helps!
I’ve done 14 coats and it still looks like ass lol I can’t seem to get rid of the streaks
Wow. I don't feel like it should have taken 14....
Is your surface level? That was the problem for me
What do you do if you did add a second coat and it's blotchy with rag scenes????
With rag scenes?
The link to which one you use is broke. Can you give us the poly link you use again please. Thanks, and going to try this.
Thanks for letting me know. I have updated the link!
@@DebtFreeDIY it still saying page not found. Can you post link here for poly you use. Thank you sir
@@robcopenhaver2800 I bet you'll have to reset your cookies and stuff on your device... It's pulling the old link back in. I verified its good. I'm putting the link here but it may get flagged by YT...
amzn.to/3TItDVR
@@DebtFreeDIY I got it now, thanks. I have a butcher block top that I’m going to do a desk top in. I got it at Lowe’s and it comes pre-finished with Minwax espresso stain. Can I put this over that, or do I need to find out if the Minwax is water-based or oil based? On their website it says it’s ready for topcoat.
@@robcopenhaver2800 in my opinion, "ready for topcoat" means you could apply polyurethane.
Anyway, I like how you sound like rapping because of bgm.😁
Thanks, yeah ZAR and Watco are better. With ZAR you have to mix their brush on poly 50/50 with mineral spirits.
Is it clear gloss type or satin clear type?
I'm using clear gloss. We find because the coats are so thin each application that you can kinda control it so it doesn't end up super plastic looking.
Great for gun stocks too
Why do you start sanding after the second coat? I've heard of doing it before and after so I'm curious about your reasoning. Thank you!
Hi Nicki, so because the coats go on so thin I find that sanding on the first coat tends to run the risk of sanding wood rather than imperfections in the finish. It tends to soak different in some places than in others on the first coat. Especially if you have a piece that's been stained, that can also result in sanding the stain which you really wouldn't want. Let me know if that didn't answer your question fully! 😊
@@DebtFreeDIY Not my comment although I definitely think you did.
💚
You mean Cool Hwhip, I guess. XD
As a automotive painter , i took this way to far .... very happy with the results though
Another video on UA-cam is "Don't buy Wipe-On Poly". Point of the video is you make your own at a much cheaper cost. Wipe on poly is nothing more than regular poly diluted with mineral spirits. So, buy regular poly, mineral spirits and mix 1:1 ratio.
They say glossy glass but never is it glassy looking like resin for example
I'm using water based Minwax and it's possible but lots of work. I brushed on 3 coats, hit it with 320 grit, then 3 more coats and hit it with 1500 grit. It's a lot and I mean a lot of sanding. The 1500 grit makes it feel like you're just using notebook paper but once you get it smoothed out, hit it with some Turtle wax then a buffing wheel. It'll look like glass but it's a lot of work!
Did I mention it's a lot of work?
Apply with a brush, straight out of the can. Two coats, then cut with a razor and sand with 220 grit, apply the next coat with 30% dilution, razor cut and sand, apply last coat with %50 dilution, sand with 400, wax, and you got a glass top.
cut with a razor?
I am currently using the same minwax product on a 78"x38"X2" butcher block powered desk project. I have a question for you. What is "Cut with a razor"? Also would you thin it with mineral spirits?
@@Shelboooooo I would like to know that as well my friend!??
@@Shelboooooo
Razor may be 10% thinner? Then 20 % and thinner makes sense
I get the 2 full on brushing to seal the wood initially
I have no idea what cut with a razor is... 🤣
You didn't use the gloves 🙃
I think it's wise to wear gloves when handling highly carcinogenic materials.
Music is too loud...distracting.
Yes, what he said. Great content and very helpful but please cut the music level 50% next time you edit. Definitely distracting.
0:28 "...so yeah, there are things out there that are better but most of the time they're going to be found in a more speciality type store..." Seriously this is your effort requirement? Has to be at Home Depot or WalMart. Could order it online, but nah.
Realistically, most people aren't gonna do that. And personally I have no issue with Minwax Wipe-On. But this video was something for the average person that is just gonna run to Wally World, Lowes, or HD.
Gloves and mask!