I figured out why your polyurethane is bumpy!
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- Опубліковано 24 гру 2024
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ISOtunes is a small, family company in Indiana that makes Bluetooth hearing protection for the shop, yard and everywhere else. (Support a small business and save 10% when you use this link, or the discount code: STUMPY) shop.isotunes....
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Also, Check out the NEW "Big Eye Rip Fence" at Harvey Woodworking Machinery: www.harveywood...
TUTORIALS ABOUT SANDING AND FINISHING:
Comprehensive sanding tutorial: • So, you think you know...
The interesting history of sandpaper: • The history of sandpap...
Random Orbital Sander tips: • These ROS tricks will ...
Using oil-based poly: • Watch this before usin...
Using wipe-on poly: • Don't buy wiping polyu...
Some other useful links:
-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com...
-Instagram: / stumpynubs
-Twitter: / stumpynubs
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(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼
ISOtunes is a small, family company in Indiana that makes Bluetooth hearing protection for the shop, yard and everywhere else. (Support a small business and save 10% when you use this link, or the discount code: STUMPY) shop.isotunes.com/stumpy
#ISOtunes #ISOtunesSport @isotunes @isotunessport
Also, Check out the NEW "Big Eye Rip Fence" at Harvey Woodworking Machinery: www.harveywoodworking.com/
*TUTORIALS ABOUT SANDING AND FINISHING:*
- Comprehensive sanding tutorial: ua-cam.com/video/qDYPGgjQmF4/v-deo.html
- The interesting history of sandpaper: ua-cam.com/video/6vR22qkddlY/v-deo.html
- Random Orbital Sander tips: ua-cam.com/video/0uvX4Xm2Y0I/v-deo.html
- Using oil-based poly: ua-cam.com/video/7uoZSWof2DM/v-deo.html
- Using wipe-on poly: ua-cam.com/video/sOSUyTbk56Q/v-deo.htmlsi=vchQRusmQ1JfKX_q
*Some other useful links:*
-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/
-Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/
-Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE INEXPENSIVE TOOLS★
- #ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save 10%): bit.ly/3BHYdH7
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
-Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW
-Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7
-Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak
-Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI
-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
-BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv
(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
I worked for about seven years in an unfinished furniture shop. We did custom finishing. This video is nearly exactly how we finished everything.
Nice
except the shop
Cool! What were the differences?
@@donovanmccoy6833 We used 220 grit aluminum oxide paper for most projects. We only used 400 grit when "needed". We also sprayed all top coats. And found 3 layers of top coat was the maximum we used. Unless something went really wrong.
So the differences are minor.
@@adams8407 Gotcha. Makes sense. Yeah pretty close for sure. Cool well this is all great info. It's very frustrating knowing there's amazing feeling wood under a rough finish haha.
That brown paper bag trick is gold. My wife bought some unfinished drumsticks for our son about 10 years back and he was complaining that they were rough - I brought out a lunch bag and rubbed the sticks down for maybe 20 seconds and they felt like silk when I was done. It blew their minds!
I’m with you. Every time I go to WoodCraft, even if I’m just getting something small, I’ll ask for a bag.
I do small projects and have a dusty basement and refinish small furniture as well. I have found out that I have been able to get a smooth finish with extra work using 50/50 home made wipe on poly. Drys fast and paper between coats. 9 to 10 coats. Satin usually gives a sheen after 6 coats. The sanding pretty much same as Stumbs does , up to 320 grit. Mineral spirits to clean surface after sanding.
So far so good really good results. Cool video my man.
I prefer bread coating on my drumsticks
Yup! My boss at the bodyshop even showed me this trick for finishing paint edges on door edges...works like magic ❤
Can you explain why it works?
I’ve done a lot of car painting, and one of the tricks we use to get dust out of the air is to spray water in the booth prior to painting.
My Dad was blind. But he never let it stop him. As he taught me through the years, MUCH, if not MOST of what he taught me was to FEEL more than see what we were doing. From wrench sizes to sanding and even the quality of cuts, I learned to FEEL more than see what I was doing.
The back of your hand can tell you ALOT more than a calloused palm.
My eyes are terrible but after 45 years of remodeling I can do most tasks without.
@Heirloom: Your dad sounds awesome.... thanks for sharing your experience. 👍
I have to give a shout out. For years I’ve hated putting on poly because it just never came out right. I watched your previous wipe on poly video and this one before trying one last time while refinishing an old dining room table. Miraculously, you solved every problem I’ve ever had. After several coats of wipe on poly (oil based thinned with mineral spirits), the final table has the most beautiful matte finish that’s so incredibly smooth. Thank you a million times for taking your time to put this information out there and help the small fries like me learn these pro tips!
You're not the first to recommend a brown paper bag as a final smoothing step, but your affirmation of that process lends a lot of credence to it. Great video, thanks for the upload
In shop class our teacher recommended using a dollar bill. But this was decades ago
I worked at a custom door and trim finishing shop and the owner told me that a piece of notebook paper is basically the finest sandpaper. I was skeptical at first but after feeling how smooth it made the finished product, I was convinced! I’ve been using it at the end of all my projects and people are amazed when I tell them I used a piece of paper to get that smooth finish.
You can buy a tack cloth to remove the dust, I have found that plain old water on a rag works just fine and saves you money. Do NOT soak the rag, just a little damp is what you need for this first coat as James aka Stumpy said in this video. That way your projects will come out silky smooth and if you do not have 320 grit sandpaper, 380 or even 400 will work, just make sure you feel the work surface to make sure there are no bumps on it, otherwise you will hate how it comes out in the end if even one bump gets through. Trust me, I learned this the hard way.
The brown paper bag at the end works really well . Sometimes I’ll even use the back of the old sandpaper you’ve gone through on the project. often it’ll have similar material as the brown bag and you can get double use from it .
Brilliant!!
I've been keeping up with your videos for a few years now and they're still captivating. The above average tips and subtle humor keep me coming back.
retired furniture maker here. always finished the last coat with 4 o steel wool and homemade wax. always left a perfect silky smooth finish.
How does one make his own wax? Ears?
@@StumpyNubs EWWWWW
Can you tell us how you made homemade wax, please?
I also had a shop teacher that advised steel wool on the final coat. I refinished a childhood dresser that way about 30 years ago and it's still holding up well today
@@SianaGearzI gotcha. Took me a sec. But I get it! 😂😂😂
My grandfather was a sign painter and a SeaBee during WWII, he ran paint shops on bases all across the Pacific, he had a simple trick for controlling dust, he had a 5 gal pump sprayer filled with water. He had to work in very dusty conditions, and this was the best solution for those situations.. A fine mist of water sprayed on the floor (some times a dirt floor) repeat as needed.
It sucks to work in but this is a paint shop trick, flood the floor and if possible rinse out the booth walls and ceiling before bringing in the car. We would often flood the floor in the most important pieces or hardest to re work
Scotch-Brite pads are also useful and there are charts that provide grit equivalents - up to about 1500. This can really save on sand paper as well.
Nice - very solid advice, I think, and I like the tip about using a paper bag for the final touch. One additional thing about water-born poly is that low ambient temperatures can cause it to dry with little bumps all over. I think this is mostly an issue for jobs like refinishing floors, but I'd say it's a good idea also to keep a woodworker's shop a little warn during its application and drying. It dries fast. (Since it sprays pretty well, it also gave me an excuse to buy a SATA gun. I'm retired now and too old and broken to do much woodworking, but it's one of many of my tools that became old friends, so that I don't even want to consider parting with them.)
I was skeptical, but the brown paper for the final sanding worked great. I will now keep this in my paper bag of tricks. Thank you so much!
When doing the final rub down of a oil based finish, I use the paper rags/towels that I used to apply the earlier coats of finish. I always lay them out on my concrete floor to dry without starting a fire. By the time I use them, they are mostly cured and they get about as stiff as a brown paper bag, and they work just as well.
Fantastic video. My biggest problem in learning to get a good finish was that I was too cheap and didn't change sandpaper as often as needed. Keep the videos coming.
Finishing. The final step in a project and the most time consuming. It requires the most diligence to achieve perfection. Your sanding tips should help to reach perfection. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
When I was working for a painter back around 1999, we used 0000 steel wool to sand the clear coats on the doors and trim we were finishing.
I'm so glad i came across this channel. I'm just starting out on my wood working journey and these videos are some off the most educational and easily digestible videos out there. I appreciate the heck out this channel
Great how-to finish process for polyurethane finish. I've used polyurethane on projects many times for many years. A great tip for using a paper bag is brilliant! One thing you may want to consider for the final finish. You can apply paste wax using a white 3m pad or fine steel wool then buff.
This brings back memories of refinishing gunstocks the old-fashioned way - a procedure then called "whiskering." The name comes from the fact that wood fibers are not parallel to one another, but rather somewhat crossing each other. As a result, when you sand even a perfectly flat surface along the grain, some fibers will have been oriented at an angle to the surface, and thus the ends will be "cut on a bias" - that is, leaving the end in a scoop-like shape, tapering to a point.
It's these points that curl up when finish is applied, and form "whiskers" standing up from the surface that roughen the final result. The old-timers would take a damp cloth and rub it over the sanded wood to raise these whiskers, and then sand them off when dry - lightly, so as not to make more whiskers. Then a second dampening, a third, etc. - with a light sanding between each - until no more whiskers arise when dampened. It could take a dozen repetitions or more to finally smooth the surface.
Then the first coat of thinned finish is applied, which - although the surface will be much smoother than it would have been when it dries - will also raise a few whiskers. We used to hand-rub the varnish into the wood to apply more pressure and force it more deeply into the grain, so that would help to find any new whiskers. But these will be few, and be easily cut off after the finish dries by softly polishing with fine steel wool, followed by cleanup with a tack cloth. Subsequent coats - of thinned, and thus rapidly-drying, finish - will serve mostly to fill in dips in the grain as the wood becomes impregnated with finish and the wood fibers are bonded together by the hardening finish. Final smoothness was achieved by buffing with fine pumice dust.
The whole process used to take about a week, but resulted in a glass-smooth and highly waterproof finish that was stable in varying humidity and nearly immune to warping. I refinished my uncle's .22 single shot, given to me when I was about 8 years old, and the finish is still smooth as silk, over 70 years later.
My victim is a livingroom coffee table. Took off the old finish with a chemical stripper. Sanded with an orbital and used an oil-based stain.
Sanded with an orbital and put on my polyurethane. I have done this entire process three times over the last few weeks and the results always dry unevenly and splotchy. Love the way these video-s show the stain and poly going on and drying with perfect uniformity. Please let me know what planet you live on as I would seriously consider emmigrating.😅😅😅
I found that using paper, rather than a sponge, led to scratches from where the paper was folded. Just that little bend caused it to go deeper than the rest of the paper. Every little imprefection in the paper, a crease from a fold or the edge of the paper, was enough to scratch it.
Good to know,thanks!
Finally! The finish video I've been impatiently waiting for!😂
Lol
Everything he explains here is dead on correct! Thanks for spreading the knowledge.
You have developed an excellent teaching delivery.
An old woodworking teacher used to hang a drying flat surface upside down to stop dust settling on it.
Ohhh
Super interesting. How though
With magnets?
With tape?
With chewing gum?
Good stuff! "Boogers of partially dried finish" made me laugh. Keep it up.
Didn't see anyone in the comments mention Aqua Coat, not sponsored but, very easy to apply after stain before poly, made my project look like it had a sheet of glass on it. And I used a can of wipe on poly for my finish. Seriously try it you won't regret it!
Thanks Stumpy for another really good "To the point" video! I think your tips on thinning the finish and wiping instead of brushing have made my life (and projects) so much nicer and easier. Now I have to try "paper" sanding..........
Love all of your helpful tips to get better finishes. I've grown as a quarter l woodworker because of you the most!
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Just finished refinishing a cherry butcher block table...after a coat, going up to a finer grit sandpaper made a huge difference. The tabletop looks and feels like glass. Its beautiful, THANK YOU so much!!
Your videos and really informative but not overwhelming, everything is easy, for even us beginners to understand.
I made some animal step stools for the grandkids and painted the with a rattle can after applying a primer. They felt rough when completed so rubbed them down with a brown paper bag. They were silky smooth after rubbing them down slightly. It’s amazing what a brown paper sock can do! Great video!
ISOtunes are the best noise canceling earbuds I've ever used I have a lawn care business and my large mowers are very loud and I have tried all brands. The noise canceling is so good I don't have to have the music very loud at all.
I have been refinishing my kitchen cabinets for 2 years. This is my first large project. I am learning a lot, sometimes after the fact. You have been a big help to me! Thank you very much!
You are so correct. We are all very tech tile creatures. Great sanding tips. We all love to sand so much. Love paper bag sanding. Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Good video. I do a little similar. When I use poly for higher traffic surfaces, I cut it 50/50 with mineral spirits with all coats. It dries faster and picks up less dust. After the final coat is cured, I typically add a coat of paste wax applied with 0000 steel wool and buff when hazed over. It has not failed me to leave a silky finish to the touch. For surfaces that should not receive a lot of wear, I still like and prefer hand rubbed/applied oil finishes. I still add the paste wax as a final smoothing for a nice feel. Before I get hit with comments, I understand that there are some finishes that should not be paste waxed in the event another cost may be needed at a future date. In short, I DO consider the final use of the finished surface. I'll also add that my comments are my preferences, and I am NOT a professional finisher by any stretch. Well, except in my mind. lol Thanks.
@Stumpy Nubs: Your explanations and information is so clear even a newbie, like myself, can get it. Thanks for sharing your wisdom. 👍😎
I'm not procrastinating at getting around to applying the next coat of finish, I'm just waiting for it to fully cure!🙃
Mark.... I think it is still a bit tacky ...better wait longer.
Useful video, helped me understand the process with more bits and pieces. Thanks for that.
Thin later coats, dissolving oil base, very fine. Thank you sir. Had a knife handle I used varathane exterior poly for that led to chasing chunks.
Impeccable timing, as I’m about to start finishing my new desk tabletop. Thx!
Thank you Mr Nubs. There aren't many of your videos I don't save to my "how to" list.
The paper bag trick also helps to burnish if you apply more pressure. Gives it a nice finish
I’ve used the brown paper bag final rub over for years and one of the reasons I use my favourite supermarket is because they have the very best brown paper bags.
Hehe
that reminds me of years ago, in junior high shop class, I did a project on the lathe, and to sand it I worked to progressively finer sandpaper, until I finally reversed the sandpaper, and used the paper side for the final. I finished it with an oil finish, and it was beautifully smooth.
When I applied laquer to the maple plywood cabinets that I made, I found that using those blue foam drywall sanding blocks worked really well after the first coat.
You mentioned it's in our nature to look with our eyes as well as our hands. True. You even go further and demonstrate how using our hands to feel and "look" for progress and/or imperfections. Our hands con pick up things sometimes the eyes don't register (especially as we get older). All that to say, "thank you".
I have applied the first coat, let it dry, sanded it, and cleaned it. Then, flip the project over and apply the first coat to the underside. This is done to minimize warping due to moisture being absorbed by the bottom side and not the top side. It doubles and possibly triples the time needed to finish a project, but it adds years of life to a piece.
Thank you so much for all the great finishing tips.
A well presented and informative vlog,
I experimented many years ago, with oil based polyurethane varnish, to achieve a smooth durable satin finish and ended with a final finish using automobile paint cutting back polish, followed up with a good hand buffing.
Just make sure the varnish has dried and cured before applying the polish and the finish will be glass like.
On the last coat, I use 000 wire wool and then a fine coat of clear wax. This is what I learned from cabinet makers in Italy. And you get the added wax smell. The result is so smooth.
Those were some very useful tips and tricks. Pretty much all the questions I had were answered. Nice job 👍🏻
I set a pedestal fan up to blow a layer of air just above the surface of the curing finish to dissuade insects from landing on it.
I learned to use a handful of sawdust or chips to smooth timber on a lathe and found rubbing a handful on after the finish does a good job at smoothing too, but I like the bag trick as that may be less messy.
Fantastic tips, James! Thanks a bunch for the lesson! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I like woodworking, conceptually. It's an ancient, mastered craft - But also, it's wood! It's not too hard to get into; it's easy enough to cut and work with, unlike say, metals & blacksmithing. I've never truly worked with wood in any fanciful way, but one day in the far future, I hope to make my own desk.
(As utilitarian as it'd probably end up being!)
Thank you very much for your finishing tips James! I have two upcoming furniture projects that I will definitely use these tips for. I believe your advice is second to none! Thank you for your time and sharing your wisdom. 😊😊😊😊😊❤❤❤❤❤
There's also the idea of the gloss of the finish intended. When I built a custom blanket chest, the finish was to be high gloss poly. The road to high gloss anything comes down to how much work on the previous layers one puts in. However, using anything to smooth out the final coat almost always leaves scratches that are visible in a raking light.
Thanks!
I've used 0000 grade steel wool between coats before, with good results. Obviously you have to be very careful to not leave any metal behind, so after the wool I'd come behind with a tack cloth and physically remove any debris.
Thank You very much for your help… I am a novice and have been trying to learn how to be better at finishing which has been very trying!!…. I’ve been using water based poly and leaving 24-30 hours between coats but 320 grit was the finest paper I have so will definitely get some 600…. I also have been using a oscillating wax buffer for my last coat finish and been pleased with the results…. Appreciate your efforts and advice
Good tips, I will even go as far as wet sanding with water or mineral spirits, let finish cure for a few days before final coat. I find it can take as long or longer to finish a project as it did building it.
A wee tip for sanding. Use wet/dry sandpaper and soapy water (dish soap is good) or any liquid soap. You will a smoother result and your sandpaper will last longer because it clogs up less.
When I use polyurethane, I sand between the first 2 coats like he describes. On the last coat I let it dry 2 or 3 days and wet sand it using 360 or 400 grit. This is similar to color sanding a car. I then put the thinnest coat of polyurethane on and it comes out smooth as glass!
No matter the subject: you finish this video and at the very least you know why things you have been doing worked, but more likely there are bits you have missed until now
I have found that running a box fan with a furnace filter stuck to the intake side in my small garage keeps the dust from settling on my project while it's drying. That made a huge difference in finish quality for me.
Chock full of great ideas and insights. Thanks again !
I've always buffed out my final finish with steel wool. Hard enough to still cut. Fine enough to polish. Sometimes, I'll buff with steel wool and wax then hand polish with a microfiber, depending on the sheen I'm looking for. But I will be trying the paper bag trick. A lot of my work is on veneer in concept automotive interiors. Sometimes traditional finish. Sometimes West System. Sometimes Urethane. Lately, I've been doing more furniture. Pay attention to Pebble Beach for a cadillac convertible this year (July/August) if you're interested in checking out some of my work. 😁
I'm also out of Michigan if that gives you a clue as to where I work. lol
3:58 Being new to finishing, I bought a "cheap" (probably overpaid, given the type of wood) pine slab from a big box store just to practice on. While I did flatten it successfully with my router sled, and I did BEAUTIFULLY fill in natural imperfections with a fast setting resin (meant for exactly that purpose) and sanded it crazy smooth, the poly process was not great. I tried applying with a foam brush first, but after seeing some videos (including Stumpy!) about wipe on poly and how to make your own, I tried that. I must not be sanding very well between coats because I'm getting some de-lamination...
Or, maybe there's still some sanding residue left that is causing that?
Brightwork on wooden boats is a particular challenge because we have to give first priority to developing a high build on each coat in order to make tue finish as impermeable as possible. Also the combination of sun and salt water will put extra stress on the bond between finish and wood.
So we do a few things differently than the video recommends. The first sanding is somewhere between 80 and 150 grit, and the surface is as clean as humanly possible. A solvent wipe and dry is often followed by an aggressive acetone wipe, on oily woods especially. Then the first, extremely critical, coat is thinned about 10% to allow more time for penetration. The coarser first sanding also holds more varnish, aiding this process.
Sand for the second coat using a grit of about double the first coat, having allowed that first coat ample time to cure. This will knock down the raised grain and possibly expose the wood, so another solvent/acetone wipe may be in order. But go light on this one, as the first coat may not be fully cured.
By the time you're getting up to 320 grit and the surface is uniformly smooth, switch to 3M Scotchbrite pads. All you need is a light scuffing to allow each fresh coat to adhere well to the previous one. You don't want to remove any more of that precious build than you can help.
Usually a minimum of four coats is called for, then one or two coats every year thereafter. Exposed surfaces should start with six coats. It's far easier and more pleasant to do this now than to hace to sand back to bare wood and start over in a couple of years.
Love the Original 7 tumbler!
Paper bag trick is also perfect for the final buffing of hardwax oils, I do it on every project when using Osmo polyx and it honestly makes a huge difference in the overall look and feel of the piece. Just make sure the oil is completely cured
I did a project where I sprayed about 18 coats of lacquer with 320 grit between coats. Put the last coat on and waited a week. Then I sanded it up to 2500 grit. Then used rubbing compound> Then swirl remover, Then a polish. Then the final glaze. It took a while, but not as long as you might think. I wasn't really digging in with the super fine paper and the automotive products went through the stages in 1 sitting. It was work, but you can see your reflection in the finish.
You have a TON of time on your hands. Lol. I hope you’re charging by the hour
I only use sandpaper after the first coat. 2nd and subsequent I use sponges because they make it easier to keep from using too much pressure. And a lot of times I even use sponges on the first coat if it is lacquer which tends to dry in minutes.
My experience with fiber swelling (learned painfully on butternut - notoriously fibrous & furry) is that it is best to apply 1 (thick) or 2 thin coats of finish and allow to harden. Follow this by "sanding" with 0000 steel wool instead of sand paper. The fibers will catch in the wool and break-off. Sanding is less helpful since you need to sand the fibers off all the while damaging/thinning the finish. By using the wool you can remove the vast majority of the fibers and dust nubs. Steel wool glides over the finish and only removes protuberances. It is critical to have sufficient finish on the wood to actually lock the fibers in place (learning this was the hard part). Too little and the fibers will just deflect. Now if your finish is uneven then sanding with a padded block can help level the surface.
i dont know if it works for wood, but i like polishing metal with a piece of retroreflective cloth tape ( the kind sewn to construction vests)
just an idea i figured id share. The glass beads seam to make a good polisher, and since its glass and cloth, its pretty durable. You can just by it in a roll, no need to cut it out of anything else.
I'm in my twenties for context, anyways. When I was in middle school I took woodworking and we had a full HVAC system set up for our finishing room. I remember seeing sanding dust everywhere. It didn't matter how much you cleaned up, it was always there.
Thank you! -Absolute Beginner.
Literally the perfect video for a channel called Stumpy Nubs
I also love finishing but stop at three coats and 650 grit and use 0000 gage wire wool to apply finishing wax followed by a buff. I have, also, never used a brush to apply poly, water or oil based. Nice😊.
Great explanation. I've done some of these things, but never such a comprehensive list.
Well done James, as usual. Although I've seen all your sanding videos, it would be nice to put them all together in a compilation - providing entertaining, continuity. James :-)
There is a playlist for sanding and finishing videos: ua-cam.com/play/PL-gT7JMZFYje9AEX4bPTmWUZV9qyZRYi9.html
My Dad used to make custom cabinet back when I was young. We used cardboard for the last "sanding/polishing" step, so very similar to the brown paper trick... I guess I can see one or the other being useful depending on the situation...
when using Tung oil, (the petroleum distillate kind) if I want a really beautiful finish, I apply 3 coats normally, (wiping off excess before it is dry) maybe sanding a bit between coats. But the final coat, (4th or 5th) I sand while the finish is wet! This will make a beautiful gloss. You will have to use a pretty fine paper, 400 or 500. Tung oil is reasonably water resistant, certainly not as much so as Polyurethane, BUT the beauty is it looks nicer AND it is easy at any date later to touch up. Poly is not.
When finishing flat panels and table tops with polyurethane, using a rubber sanding block with wet/dry sandpaper between coats yielded the best results. The high spots get removed, and the block saves your fingertips from being abraded!
Thanks for sharing with us James, great information. Fred.
Some tips i learned from a car painter.
Run a humidifier the night before but dont run any fans to disturb the dust
Wet down the floor just before you get started. this unarguably the most important step. The other ones can be skipped.
While you wet down the floor run a fog machine, yeap one of the halloween ones.
All of these steps will SIGNIFICANTLY cut down the dust while you coat or paint.
I'm A fan of water base finish it's easy to work with but the main reason I like it is that clear finish don't change color on you like some other finishes give it a yellow tint and so on.
Noted. Thanks man. Keep safe
I have even used this approach between the first coat of paint and the second. Paint is a 'finish' as well.
Great tips. I love your channel.
TL:DR = Raise the grain and sand, Sand lightly between coats, minimize dust, rub the hell out of it with brown paper after the final coat.
After the base of your cat tree comes out perfect, the cats wont use the scratch pole until you hot glue 2x $0.50 ikea carpet floor mats over your work.
In my latest video I mentioned how I finished the table top. I have to say I just might change my technique a bit based on this video. Thanks!
i also like to use wet/dry blk sand paper for a smooth finish. but brn ppr works very well
Great tips as always thanks for sharing
I gave up and now wet sand the poly with day old chicks from the local Tractor Supply Store. I find that 3 or four will put the softest smoothest finish on a typical project.
Great video, as always.
I've been using 0000 steel wool and paste wax and love the results
amen to the brown paper bag trick. it works!