Nice build...only things I would suggest is round over all internal parts... Ports, braces, bottom of speaker cut outs max output is efficient use of energy and air flow... more bracing never hurts flexing eats output..but super attaching enclosure to vehicle is so important....👍
I'm usually very particular about bracing and round-overs. This one was a quick slap together box for one of the local comps that I didn't end up making it to 😅 I must admit that a lot of previous builds have been quite ghetto like, but this car got the full sound deadener treatment and that has helped so much with rattles and flex anywhere behind the b pillars
Thank you sir. I'd love to upgrade the electricals in the future, but proper sound deadening is on the cards first. I recently did every surface in the car. It's crazy how little flex there is. Next will be the sound dampening and the window tint. It's getting crazy hot here now
Damn this is the box I was wanting with 2 18s. But I need to transfer some space inside the box for mines to fix. Box has to be a little longer. 40" l front to back, 38" w driver to passenger side. I want my port to come up that back wall and out the top back wall like a snorkeling type port
thanks for all the info including the numbers....and the truth about your system....ty from the car audio community.....what do you think you would have changed if you could go back and redo anything.....also what size was the length and opening size of your port....the box design for my 2 x18v3 apparently is 5.15" wide x 46.5 high and 27.5 inches long.....yours seems smaller and shorter
No point in saying it can do something it can't. Heck, I'm happy with a Sony xplod in the back, so I'll shout what this setup can do all day. If I were to change anything, I'd probably try increasing the Cu.ft and slightly lowering tuning and go with different port bracing. Maybe even a "interchangeable baffle" and have the option to go subs up port back to subs forward port back. I've seen a guy do alright things with the forward-back setup - cone control was a bit rough though. Due to power limits and box size, I stuck with a smaller than average port to keep port velocity in a range that wouldnt cause any chuffing or loss of cone back pressure. For a first draft, it turned out alright. X18v3's - whilst they don't need a big box - would still most likely need a bigger port in comparison assuming correct power is applied
i want to build exactly a box like this because it fits my car best, i have 2 15s and have mocked up an enclosure on a program but the port is on the front panel beside the subwoofers like your typical sub box, but how will i make the port for this kind of box, does the port need to be 2x smaller because the wall is 2x longer than the original one in the program?
The port area should be kept the same if you're changing what side it is on. I'm not a box wizard by any means, but as far as I'm aware, you just need the opening to be the same size. Like if it's 12" x 4" on a vertical plane, it should be 24" x 2" in the horizontal plane (just an example). I use Torres box build calculator and triticums port calculator to fine tune my designs. They're not the most accurate, but give me a good idea of tuning, port velocity for power used, and box/port volumes.
I went googling and found an article on grizzlyaudio.blogspot. the dude on there designed some enclosures for these for a home audio setup, so I used that as a starting point for what they may sound good at and just raised the tuning a bit and hoped for the best really. I couldn't remember the specs of the port sorry, just the tuning
The only thing holding you back is your mind 😀 it's quite simple when you get started. I use to pay people for the box designs and build them myself. I'd probably build better systems if I still done that, but the box build part is straight forward if you have some patience
Only thing I'ma say is becareful with the garage closed and all that mdf in the air. I learned very expensively that even tho I was wearing a respirator I could LACERATE my eyeball rubbing it from the dust! Nice build
The respirator stays on whenever I'm in the garage, that's a must. But I've never heard about the eyes before. I'll definitely stay on my toes for that one. Thanks man!
Did you try facing them backwards more clear an you can hear the notes carry at least the port is up against the hatch making port load but still a divider would help each sub needs its own chamber where you put them braces should have been a divider so the subs don't beat against one another
I'll have to try spinning the box around soon, hopefully thatll do something for the lows. The top corners of the box hit the back hatch before the port gets too close to the back, so the port can't really get closer than about 10-12 inches from hitting anything
@@nicke1370 I'm not telling you what to do but maby cut the box down so you can spine it around backwards port up close to the head liner should work good
I'd probably just build a new one at that point. MDF is fairly cheap now. Plus the box is close to its ideal size for power I'm giving it I think. Unless I double power, I don't think I'd gain a whole lot with it being smaller. My feelings always get hurt when I try to chase number 😆 I try to stick to something thats better with demos
@@markbates2059 its definitely loud to me. Don't know when I'll get a chance to put it on the meter though. Thanks again man, this was more of a quick slap together/throw away/demo box for the lows, but I feel like the alpine pdx amp doesn't filter through the subsonic frequencies that well. It feels like a massive drop off below 30hz on that amp
You'll need to increase the internal air space to about 18 cubic feet total, I found that a typical 18" subwoofer needs about 9 cubes to perform well, the type of amplifier and power supply has alot to do with how the box sounds, and that AudioControl epicenter maybe helpful in SQ
@user-bw3ng6kx6u thatd be a big box for sure. I loosely follow the manufacturers recommendations, this was pretty close to what I found for their subs. I would have loved to try a bigger box before I sold them. Most of my audio comes from Bluetooth and UA-cam, so an epicentre might be overkill for my application. It's a dirty signal, but it's enough to keep this budget basshead smiling
That port brace down the middle might make it act like it's 2 ports, you should put the measurements in as 2 ports to see if the tuning is the same as if it was 1. It's slaps regardless though
the box design I got for my 2 x18v3 shows 5.15" wide x 46.5 high and 27.5 inches long....which looks different then his....my design also shows 2 5.15" braces in port area at 27.5" long
I have no idea anymore sorry. I built it to be able to barely fit in the car it was in. I'd build it differently than it was if i had to build it again, the lows weren't anywhere near as good as they should have been
@@whatta7793 if you lived nearby man, I'd happily try to make you one. It's not that hard to make a somewhat basic box with minimal tools as you saw in the vid. I see build vids all the time with $3000 table saws and $1000 router kits. It's nice to have, but my tools cost me about $200. No reason you couldn't give it a shot yourself. I won't have too many box builds happening for a while, so hopefully a few short demo vids will keep the algorithm happy 😀
What's the fs of a sub n the vas I assume is at 5cuft per ported. See tuning the box to 27 and if a subs fs isn't the same 27 or less either way your roll off is from port area not loading correctly only holds ground if the subs fs is under 27 if not ur stuck like chuck damn near straight drop under the 27 ish mark. Seal those ports see if it helps grab deep or not seem so boomy or as much like bandpass box. What's the total q of the woofer it's shown as qts spec over 0.55 qts n higher it needs ported .54 n under say to .45 is either ported n or sealed under .40 demands sealed n volume of box toyed with very very little I was shocked with a psi platform 4 18 I have here. Turns out sealed box of 5.5 cuft is horrible on her but 3.5 sealed she's a dirty nasty low lil wonder. Besides it looks like they're starved for x max n serious power jump like 4 x what they get in the video one of them should crest 150 no less than 147 solid 147 at that.
Not normally. But in a room with poor ventilation like I had, I didn't want any stirred up dust being breathed in for hours on end. We're not all invincible
Nice build...only things I would suggest is round over all internal parts... Ports, braces, bottom of speaker cut outs max output is efficient use of energy and air flow... more bracing never hurts flexing eats output..but super attaching enclosure to vehicle is so important....👍
I'm usually very particular about bracing and round-overs. This one was a quick slap together box for one of the local comps that I didn't end up making it to 😅
I must admit that a lot of previous builds have been quite ghetto like, but this car got the full sound deadener treatment and that has helped so much with rattles and flex anywhere behind the b pillars
That's a nice build. You think you'll do all the electrical upgrades in the future? Would definitely make a huge difference.
Thank you sir. I'd love to upgrade the electricals in the future, but proper sound deadening is on the cards first. I recently did every surface in the car. It's crazy how little flex there is. Next will be the sound dampening and the window tint. It's getting crazy hot here now
Damn this is the box I was wanting with 2 18s. But I need to transfer some space inside the box for mines to fix. Box has to be a little longer. 40" l front to back, 38" w driver to passenger side. I want my port to come up that back wall and out the top back wall like a snorkeling type port
That’s awesome
thanks for all the info including the numbers....and the truth about your system....ty from the car audio community.....what do you think you would have changed if you could go back and redo anything.....also what size was the length and opening size of your port....the box design for my 2 x18v3 apparently is 5.15" wide x 46.5 high and 27.5 inches long.....yours seems smaller and shorter
No point in saying it can do something it can't. Heck, I'm happy with a Sony xplod in the back, so I'll shout what this setup can do all day.
If I were to change anything, I'd probably try increasing the Cu.ft and slightly lowering tuning and go with different port bracing. Maybe even a "interchangeable baffle" and have the option to go subs up port back to subs forward port back. I've seen a guy do alright things with the forward-back setup - cone control was a bit rough though.
Due to power limits and box size, I stuck with a smaller than average port to keep port velocity in a range that wouldnt cause any chuffing or loss of cone back pressure. For a first draft, it turned out alright. X18v3's - whilst they don't need a big box - would still most likely need a bigger port in comparison assuming correct power is applied
Nice int of box though a longer port I'd think but ya ain't me n I'm talking from my couch how's the sq?
It was only a quick slap together to see if I'd get any lows. Slightly disappointed with the output, but sq was pretty nice at low- mid volumes
Silicon is better than wood glue it offers added dampening at that also
Nice, what are the outside dimensions? Length width height?
i want to build exactly a box like this because it fits my car best, i have 2 15s and have mocked up an enclosure on a program but the port is on the front panel beside the subwoofers like your typical sub box, but how will i make the port for this kind of box, does the port need to be 2x smaller because the wall is 2x longer than the original one in the program?
The port area should be kept the same if you're changing what side it is on. I'm not a box wizard by any means, but as far as I'm aware, you just need the opening to be the same size. Like if it's 12" x 4" on a vertical plane, it should be 24" x 2" in the horizontal plane (just an example).
I use Torres box build calculator and triticums port calculator to fine tune my designs. They're not the most accurate, but give me a good idea of tuning, port velocity for power used, and box/port volumes.
Can u tell me soecs on that i like that box amd whats tuning sir 💪🏼🔥🔥🔊
I can't remember the exact measurements sorry, but most of the info is in the description 😁
So when did these pieces of wood come with pre drilled screw holes?
Through the magic of editing, I managed to do them all off film so the video wasn't 10 minutes of me pre drilling holes 😅
It should be hitting a lot louder than that. That box isn't tuned. Looks like it needs a wall in the inside to separate the huge port.
1k rms amp
Where did you get your box design? Whats the port width , height and length ?
I went googling and found an article on grizzlyaudio.blogspot. the dude on there designed some enclosures for these for a home audio setup, so I used that as a starting point for what they may sound good at and just raised the tuning a bit and hoped for the best really. I couldn't remember the specs of the port sorry, just the tuning
3:05 3:06
I need a box like this for 2 12s
The only thing holding you back is your mind 😀 it's quite simple when you get started. I use to pay people for the box designs and build them myself. I'd probably build better systems if I still done that, but the box build part is straight forward if you have some patience
Id also really like to know the port size
Yeah the port area here looks very limited. Chuff city
Only thing I'ma say is becareful with the garage closed and all that mdf in the air. I learned very expensively that even tho I was wearing a respirator I could LACERATE my eyeball rubbing it from the dust! Nice build
The respirator stays on whenever I'm in the garage, that's a must. But I've never heard about the eyes before. I'll definitely stay on my toes for that one. Thanks man!
Looking good
Thank you 🙏
@@nicke1370 anytime
Did you try facing them backwards more clear an you can hear the notes carry at least the port is up against the hatch making port load but still a divider would help each sub needs its own chamber where you put them braces should have been a divider so the subs don't beat against one another
I'll have to try spinning the box around soon, hopefully thatll do something for the lows. The top corners of the box hit the back hatch before the port gets too close to the back, so the port can't really get closer than about 10-12 inches from hitting anything
@@nicke1370 I'm not telling you what to do but maby cut the box down so you can spine it around backwards port up close to the head liner should work good
I'd probably just build a new one at that point. MDF is fairly cheap now. Plus the box is close to its ideal size for power I'm giving it I think. Unless I double power, I don't think I'd gain a whole lot with it being smaller.
My feelings always get hurt when I try to chase number 😆 I try to stick to something thats better with demos
@@nicke1370 I bet it is pretty loud right now though looks nice to
@@markbates2059 its definitely loud to me. Don't know when I'll get a chance to put it on the meter though.
Thanks again man, this was more of a quick slap together/throw away/demo box for the lows, but I feel like the alpine pdx amp doesn't filter through the subsonic frequencies that well. It feels like a massive drop off below 30hz on that amp
You'll need to increase the internal air space to about 18 cubic feet total, I found that a typical 18" subwoofer needs about 9 cubes to perform well, the type of amplifier and power supply has alot to do with how the box sounds, and that AudioControl epicenter maybe helpful in SQ
@user-bw3ng6kx6u thatd be a big box for sure. I loosely follow the manufacturers recommendations, this was pretty close to what I found for their subs. I would have loved to try a bigger box before I sold them.
Most of my audio comes from Bluetooth and UA-cam, so an epicentre might be overkill for my application. It's a dirty signal, but it's enough to keep this budget basshead smiling
that ridiculous, and incorrect fo most car audio subwoofers
Nice
That port brace down the middle might make it act like it's 2 ports, you should put the measurements in as 2 ports to see if the tuning is the same as if it was 1. It's slaps regardless though
That might actuality be why it didn't play like I expected. Thanks for the food for thought 😀 I'll do some research now for that
the box design I got for my 2 x18v3 shows 5.15" wide x 46.5 high and 27.5 inches long....which looks different then his....my design also shows 2 5.15" braces in port area at 27.5" long
Fancy hole punch ya using on Thad cardboard wood lol is nice but took too long f that
I want to build a box like this wat the dimension
I have no idea anymore sorry. I built it to be able to barely fit in the car it was in. I'd build it differently than it was if i had to build it again, the lows weren't anywhere near as good as they should have been
Good stuff sir, how long did it take you to build this?
From design to playing, around 8 hours. Probably be a whole lot quicker with decent tools 😅
Hey thanks for replying. What dimensions are the ply wood , looks like 3/4 ?
@uriruv8656 it's 18mm MDF, so pretty close to the 3/4 inch.
1 inch mdf?
@jasonanzures603 18mm in my part of the world. So pretty much 3/4 inch. Double baffle on top though
Beating Hard asf
Really nice box, wanna come make one like it for me so I can ditch my prefab and buy another 18"? :P
Also, this was in my recommended videos on the homepage and I haven't ever seen any of your videos before. You're getting in the UA-cam algorithm ;)
@@whatta7793 if you lived nearby man, I'd happily try to make you one. It's not that hard to make a somewhat basic box with minimal tools as you saw in the vid. I see build vids all the time with $3000 table saws and $1000 router kits. It's nice to have, but my tools cost me about $200.
No reason you couldn't give it a shot yourself.
I won't have too many box builds happening for a while, so hopefully a few short demo vids will keep the algorithm happy 😀
So much glue for the baffle. That ain't going no where.
For sure. It might be overkill, but I've never had a box come apart on me doing this
What's the fs of a sub n the vas I assume is at 5cuft per ported. See tuning the box to 27 and if a subs fs isn't the same 27 or less either way your roll off is from port area not loading correctly only holds ground if the subs fs is under 27 if not ur stuck like chuck damn near straight drop under the 27 ish mark. Seal those ports see if it helps grab deep or not seem so boomy or as much like bandpass box. What's the total q of the woofer it's shown as qts spec over 0.55 qts n higher it needs ported .54 n under say to .45 is either ported n or sealed under .40 demands sealed n volume of box toyed with very very little I was shocked with a psi platform 4 18 I have here. Turns out sealed box of 5.5 cuft is horrible on her but 3.5 sealed she's a dirty nasty low lil wonder. Besides it looks like they're starved for x max n serious power jump like 4 x what they get in the video one of them should crest 150 no less than 147 solid 147 at that.
Must be serious to wear a respirator the whole build
Not normally. But in a room with poor ventilation like I had, I didn't want any stirred up dust being breathed in for hours on end. We're not all invincible