The problem with all these super low and loud subwoofers in a Home Stereo is that while it's playing at moderate levels, I keep hearing a Helicopter, Big Truck or Loud Muffler Car outside my house. I run to look outside but nothing is there.
@@deadcow59 Heh Heh. But, no schizo. The good stereo system with the good bass is hooked up to the TV. Sounds are revealed that would normally be missed, and many of the sounds are "Thrown" . ... I'm surprised now how much I hear a Bass Drop. Even in TV commercials they use a Bass Drop.
Just an error correction regarding Decibel: 3 DB = 2x 10 DB = 10x 13 DB = 20x 16 DB = 40x 20 DB = 100x One Bel (decibel = 1/10th Bel) always multiplies your origin value with 10 and it is used for setting values into relation. For example antenna gain. An antenna can gain up a signal of one millivolt to 40 millivolt. That's 40 times in relation to without any antenna at all. How often does 10 db fit in here? 1 time, because to fit twice the signal has to be 100mv. And from here you go in 3 fb steps. 0db = 1mv (in relation to the original signal) 10db = 10mv 13db = 20mv (bc additional 3db =twice the value) 16db =40mv So many text for nothing, but I hope my example can help a little bit in understanding. Ah, btw: In acoustics (volume, SPL, sound pressure etc.) the relation is set to the faintest sound a human can hear. Don't ask me what the unit/term/formula for that sound is. Maybe someone can Google and post the answer here. I have to go to bed now. Have a nice Easter everyone!
It's actually even more fun than that! While it is true that a 3dB increase is equal to a 2x increase in power, the actual amplitude (in the case of audio, the distance the driver physically moves) of the signal is only increased by the square root of 2! Anyone familiar with square roots might notice that this means a 6dB increase is required to double the amplitude of a signal, as √2 × √2 = 2. This is the same as 3dB + 3dB = 6dB. But wait! There's more! Humans generally don't perceive stimuli linearly: simply doubling the power (or amplitude) doesn't mean we see the stimulus as twice as strong! In the case of audio, this relationship is heavily dependent on frequency: we may be less sensitive to lower frequencies than "mid-range" frequencies, but we are much more sensitive to *changes* in volume at lower frequencies than mid-range frequencies. As a rule of thumb, to double the perceived loudness of a 1kHz audio signal, you need an increase of 10dB: 10 times the power! However, down in the bass region, a doubling of loudness requires an increase of only 4-5dB or so: roughly 3 times the power. For anyone interested in learning more about perceived loudness, look up equal-loudness contours: there are actually several common sets, and because it's technically a subjective measurement, the exact numbers involved will vary from person to person. Decibels and biological perception are confusing topics, very easily misunderstood and mixed up, and also fascinating when you think about them. Did you know there's not just one meaning of "decibel?" Depending on the context and measurement, there are different uses of the term! At its core, a decibel is a relative measurement where 0 dB is equal to "times 1", but in audio you'll frequently find "dB SPL", which is an absolute measurement of the energy of a sound, or "dBA" which is similar, but biases the measurement such that frequencies we're more sensitive to count more than others. "dBm" is an absolute measure of power, "dBV" is an absolute measurement of voltage, and so on! So while the loudest an amplifier might go is "0 dB" (meaning no decrease in power from its maximum output), that same output can also be measured as some very high (100+) dB SPL (how much pressure the driver is producing), or even db SWL (the power being put out by the driver)!
@@tavaresa13 thank you for your excellent addition to the topic! The nonlinearity in human perception of loudness is BTW the reason, why audio preamps have a logarithmic potentiometer for volume control (in case someone didn't know). Have a great time!
1:35 is wrong. Those kind of subs are made for (as you mention in the video) high Sound Pressure Levels, and often have a Resonant frequency of about 35hz. There are better options like home theater subs to get low easily. The 10“ dayton reference woofer for example has a frs of 25hz, which will make it much easier to tune it lower. And also, you don‘t need such high power levels (like 500 or 1000W). What‘s more important is the efficiency of the sub at 1W. From there on, you can multiply the power for a 3dB increase. E.g.: 91dB/W/m -> 1W = 91dB, 2W = 94dB, 4W = 97dB…. 256W=115dB. E.g. 84dB/W/m => 1W=84dB, 2W=87dB… 1024W=114dB
Built one like this for an AB1244 like 4 years ago. Played 25hz like a champ and rolled off quick after 80hz or so. Not flat output by any means, but adding a bit of deadener to the back and side walls brought a nasty 34hz peak down by 3db. Good tutorial on this, BTW.
also all 90 degree turns in the port lowers ur tunning usually 1 turn = 1hz lower so your box could be tunned to around 17hz (but i think its gonna be around 18-19hz u can find it out by checking on what f the sub has smallest excursion (i hope you understand)
The Port lenghts in WinISD isnt correct. In most cases, the WinISD Port is too long. The position and geometric of Port desing ist important for the tuning freq. A port at sidewall, groundplate or corner can be shorter than WinISD show you. You need to build prototypes with a variable port an have to messure the impedance. In this impedance messure you can see the port tuning. Alternative messure the frequenzy response of the port in nearfield, at the port end. Make port shorter or longer to hit your planed tuning frequenzy. TheWinISD port lenghts simulated for 25Hz can be 17Hz or lower in real
I followed the instructions in this video, and made a home sub for Sundown audio x12 v.3. Plays clean at low volumes, hard and deep at high volumes😏 and has a very good freuqnecy response. and looks alright too. Recommended
I have been building boxes for years but this is one I didn't know thanks very much man now I know how to get them to play really low the 1.33 I would have never thought about you are awesome
I appreciate the video. I’m new to subs and want to do it RIGHT. It’s nice to know a couple tricks but I’ve noticed sub placement, wire quality, OFC or CCA, the amp the radio the OHM the voice coil the box just so much to go into it. And something like even improving wire quality makes a noticeable difference, now I know if I do all of this right and well then these noticeable differences will turn into MASSIVE differences. I want rock hard deep bass that serves well in all areas but also I really want amazing quality, it feels so good to feel GOOD punchy bass rather than just punchy bass.
I built a 13 cube box 4th order bandpass for one pro fosgate 12 It was insane you could literally vibrate items off the counter at the local gas station My friends would come out the store and say the cashier is confused and thinks it's an earthquake 😂
No questions this is the most badass video on UA-cam for building a box, funny thing is how I found it after I built mine, I happened to use sub box pro and it turned out really good, one problem I found was finding take offs for your internal 45s, soo I ended up taking them out with my sub displacement. If your could provide that and how to factor them into your box would be cool. I’m running a 12” Fi 4.11 fully loaded 4-5000 Rms and it fucking slams!
I've been designing and building speaker boxes since age 12. taking designs from existing console stereo enclosures from 50'thru 70's and usunt what works for my needs. using salvaged stereo components from different stereo console units and building enclosures for each as needed. .the discarded stereos were usully in ned of new fuses of a minor repair of. broken solder connection or wire. investing my time and labor was the only expense but for the fuses I might need. For speakers discarded kitchen cabinets work very well. I could modify them as i chose and to the required sizes. many of the console cabinets were of very good hard woods and usually mostly or entirely intact. only needing sanding and refinishing. the condition of speakers was a concern but they were usually intact and in fair to good condition. the components i salvaged were anything from the radio ,and stereo amplifier to record changer or tape deck of every sort like reel to reel, 8-Track and cassette decks. people just toss the whole thing and buy a new one. even when only one part of the whole unit is broken or inoperative. usually due to a blown fuse they either didn't know of or couldn't find. I simply looked in the usual places for the fuses or broken connections and replaced a fuse of re-solder the connection. a few minutes work for a good stereo component I can enjoy. I am a "Pack Rat" and collect wires. cables and connectors of all types to be able to hook up my stereo and AV components as i need to. Remember that Car stereo was originally adapted from home steei and evolved throughout the years. I currantly use a good quality headset for listening to music and anything online through my computer. with a 23" HD flat screene monitor. with a native 16X9 aspect ratio.. no need for such large home theater set up.. I do have a 100" big screen and a good video projector but as my eyesight get worse as I age the monitor up close is better for me to see and I have no need for hogh powered surround sound... lets say I out grew that habit. bigger isn't always better. If I want the whole home theater experience I'll build a "Mirco Theater. A comfortable small sound proof box with a good quality UHD TV and my full surround sound setup built into it all built around a comfy recliner with cup holders and remote tray. well sound proofed with layered carpet padding glued inside and out. I have the desibns in my head and have decided on the over all size. which because I need to accommodate the wall hugger recliner and sound proofing. the speakers will be built into the intrnal structure. including the subwoofer custom built under the shelf for the TV and stereo unit. as I said this is to be a Micro home theater just big enough for one or perhaps 2 snuggled closely. the largst expense will be the custom ordered recliner. The rest I either already have on hand or isn't very expensive. the hardest part of the design was figuring out the sound proofing .. higher frequencies are no problem but the deep Bass/lower frequencies penetrate almost anything. the remedy for that is lots of soft sound absorbing mass. I found the solution in a relative cheap solution of dense carpet padding. layering it to the desired thickness to isolate the sound to the inside of my private movie box. I came up with this whole idea and design one afternoon when I thought to myself what was the minimum I might need for a home theater. and how much room for up to 2 people to enjoy a movie in full surround sound. then it took me about 10 min. to design the basic structure of the box and electronics set up. the sound system is fairly standard if very compact. as is the whole thing. designes can be altered for bigger recliner love seat. width being the main concern for that scenario. and therefore more soundproofing materials. and a little more plywood. the minimum needed is best for this design. .. that said the monitor and a geeo headset works just fine for now. but for the full theater experience my Micro Theater concept seems to be a good solution as well. If a little involved .. the only other concern is ventilation inside the box. but then i have the solution to that little problem integrated into the design of the floor with a few small fans and venting scheme. isolation from the groundand the air gap under the box floor are the key as the floor of my room is concrete and on ground level stays cool all the time so venting over that concrete floor to cool the air is the solution i came up with.. I very low budget AC unit at minimal cost and parts...a couple of computer fans and routing the air where i want it to go throughout the inside of my movie box the sound deadening will also act as insulation. maintainint a comfortable temp should be easy. if I get a litle too warm just flip a switch on and if too cool shut it off. or maybe a thermostatic control for that little bit will be the ticket.set it and forget it. once i know the temp i'm comfy at. sorry this is so very long. when i'm excited about abuild of any kind I get carried away tellling all I can about it.. ADHD does that. but it also speeds up thought processes when i deside to use it in that way. usually my mind won't shut down at all. so designs flit theough my brain almost constantly... O sinple speaker box is almost too easy fo me to visualize in detail and have dinensions almost as sooon as the basic design accurs to me.
Put angle pieces in the corners cause on the diagonals from the ends of port walls you’re not at 3.5” anymore.. it will be closer to 4.75ish.. this may or may not effect tuning based on the box.. however we’ve already extended the wall by 1.85” by the time you add all this up there is going to not only be a change but also the lance and choking as air slows down from 3.5 to 4.75ish in the corners before then getting squeezed back to 3.5 again.. now in reality this most likely still has no effect on tuning but what it will impact greatly is output. By bottlenecks my the port corners snd changes of direction what you end up with is some waves not taking the proper path.. this clears added resonance inside the box which creates canceling waves inside the box which then robs you of performance and output. In all reality if you want to get the most of any box even a sealed one you should add baffles to every 90* corner changing it to 45*. This has less impact overall in the box itself but does have a drastic increase in output through a slot port. The internal volume change isn’t much not really enough to worry about unless you’re going with w tline setup or using a lot of internal bracing.. in a port it literally like shooting water from a garden hose into a firehouse which then feeds a garden hose again.. this will effect air speed, density and also internal resonance.. all three will rob you of output.. I’ve seen prefab boxes gain 2-3bd just by doing this.. and it’s a major issue I have with many custom builders.. many do the 45’s at the ports but not at other 90* corners of the box.. no point in building a 6-8-1000 dollar box and bot taking 5min time to increase output a couple DB.. it also stiffens up the joints which reduces box flex and vibration which in turn again yields more output.. it’s like using 1-1.5” front faces as opposed to just 3/4” faces.. it’s makes that much difference
I'm an engineer with an interest in making a nearfield sub for my Home cinema. I found your video extremely useful for trhinking through the process and considering the shortfalls of the software. It's not easy to find a sub for infrasonic delivery that doesn't need to play loud... so I'll make one :). I'll watch through more of your content. Are there any differences that I need to take into account besides cabin gain if I'm using WinISD for my cabinet design?
something to note tuning low significantly reduces high end out put for 90% of spl subs they will be come one note wonders in a large ported box tuned low winisd does not really take this in to account you may see that the driver can play up to 150hz in winisd but in real world testing it wont do anything that high up. depending if you are doing this for a home or car the point of when and where the sub reaches xmax limitations changes if the car resonates at lets say 24hz and the box shows the sub moving over xmax limits in winisd once you put that in the car due to the the car resonating the subwoofer can move less this can happen in home audio but its not that huge of a difference if you have a driver that is only designed for ported enclosures i wouldnt recommend tuning stupidly low 20hz or so because of above its tuning frequency the box will act like a sealed enclosure and wont give you any decent response up high getting a driver that can perform well in both sealed and ported is the best option if you model a sub in winisd and it shows it having a large peak then a dip thats a sign that its not the best for this use case there are ways you can get around this but are hard to explain and is how i get mine to play high and low even if the driver doesn't naturally want to. in terms of building a low tuned box and just throwing it in a car and getting windy sorry to say it doesnt work like that yes it may be better than the higher tuned box you had before but theres lots of things that go in to designing a box for a car and getting the most of it. the 16 per cbft rule is a good one to go off how ever it changes alot pretty much all of my box's within the past year have been no one where that rule either being over or under there are ways of figuring it out to make it perfect but again it is hard to explain the winisd rule is something like 16-20m/s thats another good rule to go off but theres always better after building alot of enclosures winisd has been a good tool but never expect it to translate to real life testing perfectly with how the driver (sub) loads up with different port areas that can change the bandwidth of the enclosure but if you use winisd you can see it doesnt make the graph any different this is when real life testing cones in handy and is why alot of people are shocked when they see my builds. as for designing the box i wouldnt use sub box pro it always has been off from what other softwares are either a tiny amount or in my case by a huge amount sometimes i wouldnt recomended it at all its ok for getting the general idea of a box and i do use it for that but when it comes to getting down to the nitty gritty i use other alternatives that i have tested and trust more such as (ultimate car audio app)
Yeah I definitely hear where you're coming from, and I know that subbox.pro isn't always completely perfect. I just thought I'd use it in this video because it's kind of a beginners-guide or just for people who are interested in learning the basics of designing a subwoofer box. A lot of the information in this video probably isn't new to most people who have built multiple boxes and not useful for them at all, I just wanted to get something out there for people to learn the basics and design their first box. I know there's many other details that can help a lot with making a build "windy" but I felt like I couldn't explain that level of detail very well. I didn't want to confuse people so I just left it as a fairly basic video about designing a pretty simple box that should do the job for your average basshead
Maybe sometime down the track in a year or two I'll make an in-depth video about the really particular details and secrets once I have a lot of experience. But thanks for leaving the commnent, I'll keep this all in mind for if I ever make a more detailed video.
Yeah I hate to sound rude but useing 16 per cube and tuned to 20 isn't something anyone would ever shoot for. For a beginner, and not even useing win isd, if you go with about 12 square inches her cube and about 16 to 18 inches long you will play most daily music fine.
Ultimate Car Audio app unfortunately doesn't provide slot port dimensions for what to cut the wood pieces. However, I did rely on it to build my enclosure which I have yet to finish at this time but will post a video of it performing once completed next week in June 2021. There are build update videos of my current and past enclosures but none of which I've built. Thx.
"Build an enclosure that works with ANY Subwoofer". 1:46 "Point 3. Should have an EBP from ... to ...". That's easy, because you said 'ANY' Subwoofer and therefore every Chassis has an EBP between 50 + 100. Case closed.
So I'm rather confused...The box that SubBox is building is NOWHERE near the specs that were defined in WinISD. In my case, I have a vent diameter of 13.00" x 1.25" and based on the tuning I defined, it calculated a 9.52" port length. When I follow these instruction in SubBox, I end up with a port inlet 5.13" x 13.5" and port length of 9.52". Why are the port sizes so far off between the two programs?
I usually start with Winisd and then I use Torres to get my box size and tuning. After that I go into SketchUp and model the box so I can factor in all the port bends.
How many HZ soo I can get that deep low clean bass I have 2 L7 Q class with 300A Alternator Big 3 and running 1/0 kicker OFC wire with 2 XS Power D4800 batteries and a Cxa1800.1
easy... infinite baffle sub... 8 x 15 high exersion subs in a manifold in your basement, or attic, or spare side room firing into your home theater... the best lows... and NO box colorations on the 3rd and 5th harmonics... i have one right behind me... its VERY powerfull had a 800w carver amp on it... took it out and replaced with a 300w NAD amp because it was literally destroying the house
Unless you're playing Wembley stadium, you probably don't need more than 100 watts. There's these $40 30W bluetooth party speakers that you probably see a lot of that will keep a group of 40-50 people happy. And actually that might be a good place to start - You get an enclosure, bluetooth, amp, crossover, battery and drivers for less than the price of the components. You could modify the enclosure to lower the tuning, even find better drivers that fit. 100W through a guitar amp in your bedroom will piss off everyone on your block, inside a car it will make your ears bleed. You don't need a 1600W sub in your car.
Help please, say a single sub needs 16 sq inch per cube, a single sub in 2 cube needs 32 sq in, does adding a 2nd sub double that and turn it into 64 sq inch of port area? So that each sub has its 16 sq in per cube? Sounds crazy for that much, but I haven't found an answer anywhere that says port area is per cube or port area is per cube per subwoofer? Dual x8v4 going into 2 cubes thanks
Very nice Sir, really good explanation , please Sir can you tell me what SPL and frequency enclosure required by song name 'smoke a nigga' by juicy j Wiz Khalifa. Please Sir i m from India. I want to design a box with SPL specially for my home.
I have a jbl cs1204 12 inch drive. However, I cannot find the technical data mentioned in the video for this driver. Therefore I couldn't do anything. I want to make the best cabinet for this driver and use it in my home theater system. Can you help me?
I got wonderful sound from two recycled 8" Andrew Jones subwoofers, push pull, in a sealed box I made with plenty of stuffed animal fluff inside, and powered by two cheap chinese class D subwoofer amps.
Great Video... Question, Does the length of the Aeroport not matter? I'm just started getting into the more technical side of car audio so I would like to know. Thank you for your time.
Great video, so many of my questions have been answered. For me building a box was never difficult it was tuning it to my speakers is where I struggled. Your video truly helped me understand the info I was missing and I appreciate you also sharing the math with us. Well done my friend 👍🏽
WTF language is this? Holy shit. I tuned out about 2 mins into this video. Here's the easiest way to design a box . . . *Hey* Chriso's Bass, what is your vimeo so I can get a box design from you? See, that was waayyyyyy easier and I did not have to speak another language.
Is it worth making a low tuned box if your subs aren't really made for low lows? I'd like to make a box around 28-30hz and be able to dig into mid/low 20s ..but i was told my subs wont like it because the FS is high ?(43hz) and they are geared more for spl but i dont really know much about it all i just want those lows.
Sound video. I am planning a sub, sub for my hifi using an old car sub. Good to see someone else thinking the same ideas. Using winisd is the key I needed. Many thanks.
Slot ports are about as aerodynamic as a city buss (the way they are commonly constructed), and should not be considered equal to an aeroport with the same cross sectional area. Which will flow much more air than a equal sized slot. I encourage you to test it. straight slot vs folded slot vs aeroport, all at the same tuning Fq.
80/16 = 5 is required (required total port area)/(front baffle height) = (port width). You just divide the port area you need by the height of your front baffle to get the port width
@@chrisosbass1286 I was kinda questioning this as well... At (10:24), aren't you multiplying feet times inches, to get total inches? If so, there's 12 inches per foot, not 16. 🤔 That's seemingly what is implied as to what you're doing... 🤷🏻
Award Winning video IMO! This is what you do if you want really DEEP bass. Did this technique for my JL 10 and had to use several feet of 3" flexport as my port was tuned so low to get the right response. Essentially a coil of port tube in the enclosure tuned very low. Requires a high power amplifier to get the excursion needed to make it work; but sound is amazingly DEEP and not the boomy duff duff boom-boxy sound. Even without the DSP controls, the enclosure is well behaved and not boomy. Have to roll the windows down to get the extremely low frequency stuff out. :)
@@TimpBizkit True. The long port full of air acts as a moving mass, just like a passive radiator. I didn't have any area to install a passive radiator as it was a stealth box install.
@@haraldpost It was tuned to about 28 Hz and flared with a horn at both ends to reduce chuffing. Powered by JL 250 watt amp at the time. It would indeed chuff like a choo choo when pushed hard at the very bottom end when you got close to port tuned frequency.
3:44 QUESTION: Is 1.33x the manufacturer recommended net volume size of the min, mid, or max number they provide? Meaning, my 15" Fi Neo 4.11 is recommend I use 3ft³-5ft³ per sub. So do I multiply 1.33 by 3, 4, or 5? It's important to know I will be clamping a little more than their rated power of 4500 (rated 4500 but Fi says up to 7500 so I have each sub connected to it's own Taramps Bass 8K wired down to 0.7 ohm = 10,000 RMS Watts per sub but again, I expect to clamp only 5k each). Sub's Fs is 33.6Hz so I chose 33.6Hz as my box tuning with port area of 16in² per cubic foot of net volume as recommended. For more info and videos, see my UA-cam channel for build updates which starting June 2021 will be with my new larger custom enclosure of 8.5ft³ net (4.25 per sub) whereas now (May 2021) they are in a "labyrinth enclosure" (2 individual long winding ports) and only 2.75ft³ each sub net volume and port area half of what is required (8in² vs 16in²) which both (port area AND net volume) are greatly undersized.
I have autostudio ref12d2 and winisd when I put all specs that I can find says ”Driver data fails intergity check” when I click it says that ”Considtency check on Qts, Qms, Qes” and I placed the parametrics that I found on those
12:29 A thing to be careful of is that port resonance there at the bottom. (1st port resonance) You'd want a lowpass around half an octave or lower below that I believe, otherwise at a certain volume it'll resonate and sound terrible. It's only an issue if you plan to play up to that area. Also from what I've heard from someone who's made over 300+ boxes 23-24m/s is good as long as you have a flared/rounded port you shouldn't hear chuffing. Though 17m/s is better if you can hit that or below.
Thank you!!!! If only I could put that in the video right now 😅. I've always known about Port resonance but not much about how it really works or anything. I vividly remember how bad the port resonance was on some logitech systems, just a constant high-bass whine at 35hz and lower
@@chrisosbass1286 I've experienced a lot of port noise (source: Logitech z623) so I've figured out that a great way to reduce port noise is, ironically, to put dampening inside the port. Add a small amount of carpeting at the very beginning of the port and you'll have substantially less noise to deal with.
Wow! too detailed for layman like me... I was kinda hoping just keying sub name and desired Low frequency and "vwalla" a box design emerges... Eg Pioneer 12" TS-W3003D4 Champion Series PRO 2000W Car Subwoofer, and desiring 25Hz... what will be the box dimensions?
do you think chines replicas of sony/kenwood subwoofer would be good enough to build a sub? i am looking for a sub for my home theater. and i doubt chinese versions ever go above 500rms. i usually listen to main channels at 80-85db and subwoofer at around 90-100db.
bro, I fixed everything right, the parameters are ok, but when I go to save an error appears on the screen, how am I going to do it so it doesn't happen anymore
Ok so questions if I have a dvc 4 wired in parallel which drops too 2ohms and 2 of them which drops too 1ohm and 1200 watt amp I'm a building a box for a 2ohm sub 600rms or is 1 at 600 or 1 at 1200 or maybe I'm over thinking it
Hi friend is it safe to tune the cabinet lower than the FS rating like my sub has a FS RATING of 35 HZ and I want a box tuned to 26 will I blow my sub thanks in advance
So if my port is 3 inch in diameter and 8 inches long that’s what a box maker app says to do. So my question is would two 3 inch ports 4 inches long be the same thing with less port noise. I like 20-30 hz and 30 hz to me is high. I’m just getting tons of air velocity and port noise. Custom 15 inch sub W/solo X 18 motor internal box vol is 4.2 including sub box maker said a 3 inch port 8 inches long would give me a 25hz tune roughly. Using straight pipe For Now going to flare myself or buy just want the right formula first. Thanks in advance. You’ve already helped me and let me know I’m not the only one who’d rather rumble and make people wonder where/what it’s coming from 😎then announce to the world I have subwoofers in my car. Low not loud.
Now I have a new problem. I dont believe subbox Pro allows you too build a box for kickers solo baric series of subs so i believe subbox pro wont help with designing a box unless i am wrong...
i have noname speaker that have no info about these ts parameters, and i know only the box dimensions, do somehow will i get atleast the speaker frequency response? it can play as low as i want, it can go 1hz (at 20hz it have ~10mm movement at 30hz have ~14mm movement and 40hz it have ~12mm movement at twoway ) its a 30w 8R speaker :)
Tsp's control extension more than x-max. If the driver can't couple with the air at low frequencies, x-max will not matter. Low qts will rely on the enclosure to produce frequencies near or below fs. Volume of the enclosure is determined by vas and qts, tuning is controlled by fs and qts, and optimum port area will be dictated by qes and vas. The predicted x-max is based on no decrease in cms as the spider stretches. Design ports by vent mach, a mach of .03-.05 is best. A port to small will add power compression by overly restricting movement near and @ tuning.
Any feelings on kerfed ports? I've heard your port starts at point of desired port area... And do flare the inside opening? Subs closer as possible to each other or further apart as possible or no difference. If port ends half way thru do you add another 90° to aim towards the baffle? My current single 18 is tuned to 28htz it slams on bass boosted music but totally flops in higher notes and starts clipping very soon.
I've asked before but nvr got a response I have 4 skar svr12s so is 10.5 cubes good and tuned to 20hz with a port area of 11cubes per cubic ft is that ok or does port area got to be lower
My 12 hcca just doesn't seem to hit like it needs I have it too a zues 3200 d, even hooked a car battery up in the back and it don't play any better. I have it a box to spec for this 12 at 33 hz. Plays best on CD. But I think I need a bigger box
This is how you design a box that makes bass have no impact. I've designed plenty of boxes what I know to big of a box, the slam doesn't hurt your chest. Yes it will go low and loud.
Good afternoon I have a question for you. Do you know what software program is used that I can put in the idea I have for Tops and subs and it would give me the best way to make speaker boxes
also the program is somehow unusable it says if i wanna start a new project: "division by zero" if i cancel that to avoid corruption the app closes, but if i proceed, the app crashes. POV at after reinstall: the app seems like workin Second POV: the apps seems not working when i wanna start a project POV 3: i can continue with built in speakers but not my speaker
Why can’t I see the red line on cone excursion? Like I can see my graph and know my Xmas one way is 19mm and base off that but I just don’t see a red line
I have 2 ground zero gziw 300 - II it has 10mm xmax and 350w rms but i have a big box and im gonna try to add 2 extra walls inside the box to see if it helps with lower frequenzies
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Done this for twenty years and that is one of the most dead on common sense language breakdowns of the process I have seen. Great vid!
Hands down - this is the best box design video I have ever seen!
I agree, very detailed and understandable
Yup very helpful, always looking fir info on how to tune a box and this clarified a lot fir me
The problem with all these super low and loud subwoofers in a Home Stereo is that while it's playing at moderate levels, I keep hearing a Helicopter, Big Truck or Loud Muffler Car outside my house. I run to look outside but nothing is there.
I think that’s called schizophrenia
@@deadcow59 Heh Heh. But, no schizo. The good stereo system with the good bass is hooked up to the TV. Sounds are revealed that would normally be missed, and many of the sounds are "Thrown" . ... I'm surprised now how much I hear a Bass Drop. Even in TV commercials they use a Bass Drop.
@@deadcow59lmaooooooooo
Exactly bro, you'll either hear ww3 outside or a demolishing machine and when you come to check, theres nothing 😂
That's called put down the crack pipe
Just an error correction regarding Decibel:
3 DB = 2x
10 DB = 10x
13 DB = 20x
16 DB = 40x
20 DB = 100x
One Bel (decibel = 1/10th Bel) always multiplies your origin value with 10 and it is used for setting values into relation. For example antenna gain. An antenna can gain up a signal of one millivolt to 40 millivolt. That's 40 times in relation to without any antenna at all.
How often does 10 db fit in here?
1 time, because to fit twice the signal has to be 100mv. And from here you go in 3 fb steps.
0db = 1mv (in relation to the original signal)
10db = 10mv
13db = 20mv (bc additional 3db =twice the value)
16db =40mv
So many text for nothing, but I hope my example can help a little bit in understanding.
Ah, btw:
In acoustics (volume, SPL, sound pressure etc.) the relation is set to the faintest sound a human can hear. Don't ask me what the unit/term/formula for that sound is. Maybe someone can Google and post the answer here. I have to go to bed now.
Have a nice Easter everyone!
It's actually even more fun than that!
While it is true that a 3dB increase is equal to a 2x increase in power, the actual amplitude (in the case of audio, the distance the driver physically moves) of the signal is only increased by the square root of 2! Anyone familiar with square roots might notice that this means a 6dB increase is required to double the amplitude of a signal, as √2 × √2 = 2. This is the same as 3dB + 3dB = 6dB.
But wait! There's more!
Humans generally don't perceive stimuli linearly: simply doubling the power (or amplitude) doesn't mean we see the stimulus as twice as strong! In the case of audio, this relationship is heavily dependent on frequency: we may be less sensitive to lower frequencies than "mid-range" frequencies, but we are much more sensitive to *changes* in volume at lower frequencies than mid-range frequencies.
As a rule of thumb, to double the perceived loudness of a 1kHz audio signal, you need an increase of 10dB: 10 times the power! However, down in the bass region, a doubling of loudness requires an increase of only 4-5dB or so: roughly 3 times the power. For anyone interested in learning more about perceived loudness, look up equal-loudness contours: there are actually several common sets, and because it's technically a subjective measurement, the exact numbers involved will vary from person to person.
Decibels and biological perception are confusing topics, very easily misunderstood and mixed up, and also fascinating when you think about them. Did you know there's not just one meaning of "decibel?" Depending on the context and measurement, there are different uses of the term! At its core, a decibel is a relative measurement where 0 dB is equal to "times 1", but in audio you'll frequently find "dB SPL", which is an absolute measurement of the energy of a sound, or "dBA" which is similar, but biases the measurement such that frequencies we're more sensitive to count more than others. "dBm" is an absolute measure of power, "dBV" is an absolute measurement of voltage, and so on! So while the loudest an amplifier might go is "0 dB" (meaning no decrease in power from its maximum output), that same output can also be measured as some very high (100+) dB SPL (how much pressure the driver is producing), or even db SWL (the power being put out by the driver)!
@@tavaresa13 thank you for your excellent addition to the topic!
The nonlinearity in human perception of loudness is BTW the reason, why audio preamps have a logarithmic potentiometer for volume control (in case someone didn't know).
Have a great time!
@@tavaresa13Yea sound perception is a hard thing to measure. There’s no absolute standard just estimates and rule of thumbs.
Break out tha mask and da glock
1:35 is wrong. Those kind of subs are made for (as you mention in the video) high Sound Pressure Levels, and often have a Resonant frequency of about 35hz. There are better options like home theater subs to get low easily. The 10“ dayton reference woofer for example has a frs of 25hz, which will make it much easier to tune it lower.
And also, you don‘t need such high power levels (like 500 or 1000W). What‘s more important is the efficiency of the sub at 1W. From there on, you can multiply the power for a 3dB increase.
E.g.: 91dB/W/m -> 1W = 91dB, 2W = 94dB, 4W = 97dB…. 256W=115dB.
E.g. 84dB/W/m => 1W=84dB, 2W=87dB… 1024W=114dB
Built one like this for an AB1244 like 4 years ago. Played 25hz like a champ and rolled off quick after 80hz or so. Not flat output by any means, but adding a bit of deadener to the back and side walls brought a nasty 34hz peak down by 3db.
Good tutorial on this, BTW.
This guy so late lol 🤣 them ABs love them lows
My XFL 15" can play down to 15hz in the 32hz enclosure. The sunroof just about flies off. It rolls off fast after like 70hz though
also all 90 degree turns in the port lowers ur tunning usually 1 turn = 1hz lower so your box could be tunned to around 17hz (but i think its gonna be around 18-19hz u can find it out by checking on what f the sub has smallest excursion (i hope you understand)
The Port lenghts in WinISD isnt correct. In most cases, the WinISD Port is too long. The position and geometric of Port desing ist important for the tuning freq. A port at sidewall, groundplate or corner can be shorter than WinISD show you.
You need to build prototypes with a variable port an have to messure the impedance. In this impedance messure you can see the port tuning. Alternative messure the frequenzy response of the port in nearfield, at the port end. Make port shorter or longer to hit your planed tuning frequenzy.
TheWinISD port lenghts simulated for 25Hz can be 17Hz or lower in real
I followed the instructions in this video, and made a home sub for Sundown audio x12 v.3. Plays clean at low volumes, hard and deep at high volumes😏 and has a very good freuqnecy response. and looks alright too. Recommended
You have the blueprint ?
I have been building boxes for years but this is one I didn't know thanks very much man now I know how to get them to play really low the 1.33 I would have never thought about you are awesome
I appreciate the video. I’m new to subs and want to do it RIGHT. It’s nice to know a couple tricks but I’ve noticed sub placement, wire quality, OFC or CCA, the amp the radio the OHM the voice coil the box just so much to go into it. And something like even improving wire quality makes a noticeable difference, now I know if I do all of this right and well then these noticeable differences will turn into MASSIVE differences. I want rock hard deep bass that serves well in all areas but also I really want amazing quality, it feels so good to feel GOOD punchy bass rather than just punchy bass.
I tried putting in all the parameters and it's keep giving me parameter error list and I retried it multiple times still..
Really great quality content Chriso. Keep up the great work.
Thanks dude!!
Tnx for the info sir. More power
@@chrisosbass1286 can I pay you to design a subwoofer box. I'll cash app you If you could. I have 1 skar audio vxf 15
@@thetruthtings you got this awesome video that gives you all the knowledge to do it yourself!!
@@BabyBlue.23 nope I'm lazy can I pay you to design me a box since you replied and he didn't
I remember when you had to do those calculations with a calculator, lol.
this is best sub box design video out here on youtube
idk about that for sure but thanks man!!
I built a 13 cube box 4th order bandpass for one pro fosgate 12
It was insane you could literally vibrate items off the counter at the local gas station
My friends would come out the store and say the cashier is confused and thinks it's an earthquake 😂
Thank you for the WinIsd 101 tutorial, and all the helpful information required for designing a box
why dont you just give us deep tuned box dimensions
you sir, just earned a SUB, damn bass NERD! i love it!!!
Amazing video man, now we would love to see one on sealed enclosures thanks
No questions this is the most badass video on UA-cam for building a box, funny thing is how I found it after I built mine, I happened to use sub box pro and it turned out really good, one problem I found was finding take offs for your internal 45s, soo I ended up taking them out with my sub displacement. If your could provide that and how to factor them into your box would be cool. I’m running a 12” Fi 4.11 fully loaded 4-5000 Rms and it fucking slams!
I've been designing and building speaker boxes since age 12. taking designs from existing console stereo enclosures from 50'thru 70's and usunt what works for my needs. using salvaged stereo components from different stereo console units and building enclosures for each as needed. .the discarded stereos were usully in ned of new fuses of a minor repair of. broken solder connection or wire. investing my time and labor was the only expense but for the fuses I might need. For speakers discarded kitchen cabinets work very well. I could modify them as i chose and to the required sizes. many of the console cabinets were of very good hard woods and usually mostly or entirely intact. only needing sanding and refinishing. the condition of speakers was a concern but they were usually intact and in fair to good condition. the components i salvaged were anything from the radio ,and stereo amplifier to record changer or tape deck of every sort like reel to reel, 8-Track and cassette decks. people just toss the whole thing and buy a new one. even when only one part of the whole unit is broken or inoperative. usually due to a blown fuse they either didn't know of or couldn't find. I simply looked in the usual places for the fuses or broken connections and replaced a fuse of re-solder the connection. a few minutes work for a good stereo component I can enjoy. I am a "Pack Rat" and collect wires. cables and connectors of all types to be able to hook up my stereo and AV components as i need to. Remember that Car stereo was originally adapted from home steei and evolved throughout the years. I currantly use a good quality headset for listening to music and anything online through my computer. with a 23" HD flat screene monitor. with a native 16X9 aspect ratio.. no need for such large home theater set up.. I do have a 100" big screen and a good video projector but as my eyesight get worse as I age the monitor up close is better for me to see and I have no need for hogh powered surround sound... lets say I out grew that habit. bigger isn't always better. If I want the whole home theater experience I'll build a "Mirco Theater. A comfortable small sound proof box with a good quality UHD TV and my full surround sound setup built into it all built around a comfy recliner with cup holders and remote tray. well sound proofed with layered carpet padding glued inside and out. I have the desibns in my head and have decided on the over all size. which because I need to accommodate the wall hugger recliner and sound proofing. the speakers will be built into the intrnal structure. including the subwoofer custom built under the shelf for the TV and stereo unit. as I said this is to be a Micro home theater just big enough for one or perhaps 2 snuggled closely. the largst expense will be the custom ordered recliner. The rest I either already have on hand or isn't very expensive. the hardest part of the design was figuring out the sound proofing .. higher frequencies are no problem but the deep Bass/lower frequencies penetrate almost anything. the remedy for that is lots of soft sound absorbing mass. I found the solution in a relative cheap solution of dense carpet padding. layering it to the desired thickness to isolate the sound to the inside of my private movie box. I came up with this whole idea and design one afternoon when I thought to myself what was the minimum I might need for a home theater. and how much room for up to 2 people to enjoy a movie in full surround sound. then it took me about 10 min. to design the basic structure of the box and electronics set up. the sound system is fairly standard if very compact. as is the whole thing. designes can be altered for bigger recliner love seat. width being the main concern for that scenario. and therefore more soundproofing materials. and a little more plywood. the minimum needed is best for this design. .. that said the monitor and a geeo headset works just fine for now. but for the full theater experience my Micro Theater concept seems to be a good solution as well. If a little involved .. the only other concern is ventilation inside the box. but then i have the solution to that little problem integrated into the design of the floor with a few small fans and venting scheme. isolation from the groundand the air gap under the box floor are the key as the floor of my room is concrete and on ground level stays cool all the time so venting over that concrete floor to cool the air is the solution i came up with.. I very low budget AC unit at minimal cost and parts...a couple of computer fans and routing the air where i want it to go throughout the inside of my movie box the sound deadening will also act as insulation. maintainint a comfortable temp should be easy. if I get a litle too warm just flip a switch on and if too cool shut it off. or maybe a thermostatic control for that little bit will be the ticket.set it and forget it. once i know the temp i'm comfy at. sorry this is so very long. when i'm excited about abuild of any kind I get carried away tellling all I can about it.. ADHD does that. but it also speeds up thought processes when i deside to use it in that way. usually my mind won't shut down at all. so designs flit theough my brain almost constantly... O sinple speaker box is almost too easy fo me to visualize in detail and have dinensions almost as sooon as the basic design accurs to me.
Put angle pieces in the corners cause on the diagonals from the ends of port walls you’re not at 3.5” anymore.. it will be closer to 4.75ish.. this may or may not effect tuning based on the box.. however we’ve already extended the wall by 1.85” by the time you add all this up there is going to not only be a change but also the lance and choking as air slows down from 3.5 to 4.75ish in the corners before then getting squeezed back to 3.5 again.. now in reality this most likely still has no effect on tuning but what it will impact greatly is output. By bottlenecks my the port corners snd changes of direction what you end up with is some waves not taking the proper path.. this clears added resonance inside the box which creates canceling waves inside the box which then robs you of performance and output. In all reality if you want to get the most of any box even a sealed one you should add baffles to every 90* corner changing it to 45*. This has less impact overall in the box itself but does have a drastic increase in output through a slot port. The internal volume change isn’t much not really enough to worry about unless you’re going with w tline setup or using a lot of internal bracing.. in a port it literally like shooting water from a garden hose into a firehouse which then feeds a garden hose again.. this will effect air speed, density and also internal resonance.. all three will rob you of output.. I’ve seen prefab boxes gain 2-3bd just by doing this.. and it’s a major issue I have with many custom builders.. many do the 45’s at the ports but not at other 90* corners of the box.. no point in building a 6-8-1000 dollar box and bot taking 5min time to increase output a couple DB.. it also stiffens up the joints which reduces box flex and vibration which in turn again yields more output.. it’s like using 1-1.5” front faces as opposed to just 3/4” faces.. it’s makes that much difference
I was thinking the same thing bro. You said it all...lol
I'm an engineer with an interest in making a nearfield sub for my Home cinema. I found your video extremely useful for trhinking through the process and considering the shortfalls of the software. It's not easy to find a sub for infrasonic delivery that doesn't need to play loud... so I'll make one :).
I'll watch through more of your content.
Are there any differences that I need to take into account besides cabin gain if I'm using WinISD for my cabinet design?
something to note tuning low significantly reduces high end out put for 90% of spl subs they will be come one note wonders in a large ported box tuned low winisd does not really take this in to account you may see that the driver can play up to 150hz in winisd but in real world testing it wont do anything that high up. depending if you are doing this for a home or car the point of when and where the sub reaches xmax limitations changes if the car resonates at lets say 24hz and the box shows the sub moving over xmax limits in winisd once you put that in the car due to the the car resonating the subwoofer can move less this can happen in home audio but its not that huge of a difference if you have a driver that is only designed for ported enclosures i wouldnt recommend tuning stupidly low 20hz or so because of above its tuning frequency the box will act like a sealed enclosure and wont give you any decent response up high getting a driver that can perform well in both sealed and ported is the best option if you model a sub in winisd and it shows it having a large peak then a dip thats a sign that its not the best for this use case there are ways you can get around this but are hard to explain and is how i get mine to play high and low even if the driver doesn't naturally want to. in terms of building a low tuned box and just throwing it in a car and getting windy sorry to say it doesnt work like that yes it may be better than the higher tuned box you had before but theres lots of things that go in to designing a box for a car and getting the most of it. the 16 per cbft rule is a good one to go off how ever it changes alot pretty much all of my box's within the past year have been no one where that rule either being over or under there are ways of figuring it out to make it perfect but again it is hard to explain the winisd rule is something like 16-20m/s thats another good rule to go off but theres always better after building alot of enclosures winisd has been a good tool but never expect it to translate to real life testing perfectly with how the driver (sub) loads up with different port areas that can change the bandwidth of the enclosure but if you use winisd you can see it doesnt make the graph any different this is when real life testing cones in handy and is why alot of people are shocked when they see my builds. as for designing the box i wouldnt use sub box pro it always has been off from what other softwares are either a tiny amount or in my case by a huge amount sometimes i wouldnt recomended it at all its ok for getting the general idea of a box and i do use it for that but when it comes to getting down to the nitty gritty i use other alternatives that i have tested and trust more such as (ultimate car audio app)
Yeah I definitely hear where you're coming from, and I know that subbox.pro isn't always completely perfect. I just thought I'd use it in this video because it's kind of a beginners-guide or just for people who are interested in learning the basics of designing a subwoofer box. A lot of the information in this video probably isn't new to most people who have built multiple boxes and not useful for them at all, I just wanted to get something out there for people to learn the basics and design their first box. I know there's many other details that can help a lot with making a build "windy" but I felt like I couldn't explain that level of detail very well. I didn't want to confuse people so I just left it as a fairly basic video about designing a pretty simple box that should do the job for your average basshead
Maybe sometime down the track in a year or two I'll make an in-depth video about the really particular details and secrets once I have a lot of experience. But thanks for leaving the commnent, I'll keep this all in mind for if I ever make a more detailed video.
Yeah I hate to sound rude but useing 16 per cube and tuned to 20 isn't something anyone would ever shoot for. For a beginner, and not even useing win isd, if you go with about 12 square inches her cube and about 16 to 18 inches long you will play most daily music fine.
Ultimate Car Audio app unfortunately doesn't provide slot port dimensions for what to cut the wood pieces. However, I did rely on it to build my enclosure which I have yet to finish at this time but will post a video of it performing once completed next week in June 2021. There are build update videos of my current and past enclosures but none of which I've built. Thx.
Ko fu
"Build an enclosure that works with ANY Subwoofer". 1:46 "Point 3. Should have an EBP from ... to ...". That's easy, because you said 'ANY' Subwoofer and therefore every Chassis has an EBP between 50 + 100. Case closed.
So I'm rather confused...The box that SubBox is building is NOWHERE near the specs that were defined in WinISD. In my case, I have a vent diameter of 13.00" x 1.25" and based on the tuning I defined, it calculated a 9.52" port length. When I follow these instruction in SubBox, I end up with a port inlet 5.13" x 13.5" and port length of 9.52".
Why are the port sizes so far off between the two programs?
I usually start with Winisd and then I use Torres to get my box size and tuning. After that I go into SketchUp and model the box so I can factor in all the port bends.
where you can get torres
How many HZ soo I can get that deep low clean bass I have 2 L7 Q class with 300A Alternator Big 3 and running 1/0 kicker OFC wire with 2 XS Power D4800 batteries and a Cxa1800.1
easy... infinite baffle sub...
8 x 15 high exersion subs in a manifold in your basement, or attic, or spare side room firing into your home theater...
the best lows... and NO box colorations on the 3rd and 5th harmonics... i have one right behind me... its VERY powerfull
had a 800w carver amp on it... took it out and replaced with a 300w NAD amp because it was literally destroying the house
Unless you're playing Wembley stadium, you probably don't need more than 100 watts. There's these $40 30W bluetooth party speakers that you probably see a lot of that will keep a group of 40-50 people happy. And actually that might be a good place to start - You get an enclosure, bluetooth, amp, crossover, battery and drivers for less than the price of the components. You could modify the enclosure to lower the tuning, even find better drivers that fit. 100W through a guitar amp in your bedroom will piss off everyone on your block, inside a car it will make your ears bleed. You don't need a 1600W sub in your car.
Help please, say a single sub needs 16 sq inch per cube, a single sub in 2 cube needs 32 sq in, does adding a 2nd sub double that and turn it into 64 sq inch of port area? So that each sub has its 16 sq in per cube? Sounds crazy for that much, but I haven't found an answer anywhere that says port area is per cube or port area is per cube per subwoofer? Dual x8v4 going into 2 cubes thanks
This is a really good tutorial, it is actually just great
thanks man!
No problem, it deserves more credit.
Awesome
Very nice Sir, really good explanation , please Sir can you tell me what SPL and frequency enclosure required by song name 'smoke a nigga' by juicy j Wiz Khalifa. Please Sir i m from India. I want to design a box with SPL specially for my home.
I have a jbl cs1204 12 inch drive. However, I cannot find the technical data mentioned in the video for this driver. Therefore I couldn't do anything. I want to make the best cabinet for this driver and use it in my home theater system. Can you help me?
I got wonderful sound from two recycled 8" Andrew Jones subwoofers, push pull, in a sealed box I made with plenty of stuffed animal fluff inside, and powered by two cheap chinese class D subwoofer amps.
Great Video... Question, Does the length of the Aeroport not matter? I'm just started getting into the more technical side of car audio so I would like to know. Thank you for your time.
What about the length of a areo-port? How does that affect the tune???
Great video, so many of my questions have been answered. For me building a box was never difficult it was tuning it to my speakers is where I struggled. Your video truly helped me understand the info I was missing and I appreciate you also sharing the math with us. Well done my friend 👍🏽
What if i can't find the large-signal parameters for my sub. The sub is EDBX15D2-E0
jimi like, says boom i build boxes look at the build along workshop to learn how to buil a quality box😁👹👹😻💀😣🤲👧👅🦹♂
WTF language is this? Holy shit. I tuned out about 2 mins into this video.
Here's the easiest way to design a box . . . *Hey* Chriso's Bass, what is your vimeo so I can get a box design from you?
See, that was waayyyyyy easier and I did not have to speak another language.
Is it worth making a low tuned box if your subs aren't really made for low lows? I'd like to make a box around 28-30hz and be able to dig into mid/low 20s ..but i was told my subs wont like it because the FS is high ?(43hz) and they are geared more for spl but i dont really know much about it all i just want those lows.
Sound video. I am planning a sub, sub for my hifi using an old car sub. Good to see someone else thinking the same ideas. Using winisd is the key I needed. Many thanks.
your giving us wrong information dude .. 1:34 WATTS does not mean anything buddy... the sensetifity per watt is more important ;-)
Slot ports are about as aerodynamic as a city buss (the way they are commonly constructed), and should not be considered equal to an aeroport with the same cross sectional area. Which will flow much more air than a equal sized slot. I encourage you to test it. straight slot vs folded slot vs aeroport, all at the same tuning Fq.
How big do you want the box to be
Can I get someone to design a box for me? I couldn't follow all the way through in comfort to design a box myself
Thank you, someone that speaks my language. Lol.
Great stuff love what you have provided. Curious though, in the beginning you were touting round ports. Then you seemed to favor baffle type
Sir 500 rms bulk audio12" subwoofer. Box design please loude
I need help. Im trying to build box. My sub speakers are 33" and I want to.make ported sub.can any one help me please
Why wont it let you change the depth in sub box pro... makes it kind of worthless...
In finding of what size of the port is? Where 80/16= 5 comes from?
80/16 = 5 is required (required total port area)/(front baffle height) = (port width). You just divide the port area you need by the height of your front baffle to get the port width
@@chrisosbass1286 I was kinda questioning this as well... At (10:24), aren't you multiplying feet times inches, to get total inches? If so, there's 12 inches per foot, not 16. 🤔 That's seemingly what is implied as to what you're doing... 🤷🏻
Award Winning video IMO! This is what you do if you want really DEEP bass.
Did this technique for my JL 10 and had to use several feet of 3" flexport as my port was tuned so low to get the right response. Essentially a coil of port tube in the enclosure tuned very low. Requires a high power amplifier to get the excursion needed to make it work; but sound is amazingly DEEP and not the boomy duff duff boom-boxy sound.
Even without the DSP controls, the enclosure is well behaved and not boomy.
Have to roll the windows down to get the extremely low frequency stuff out. :)
A single 3" port for 10" subwoofer...? That models to.. oh my.. 76 m/s (!!!) of port chuff @ 22 hz @ 450 watts... for my 10" subwoofer.
You're better off with a passive radiator (or 2) in a small box, as your port starts to look like a small intestine to get it low enough.
@@TimpBizkit True. The long port full of air acts as a moving mass, just like a passive radiator. I didn't have any area to install a passive radiator as it was a stealth box install.
@@haraldpost It was tuned to about 28 Hz and flared with a horn at both ends to reduce chuffing. Powered by JL 250 watt amp at the time.
It would indeed chuff like a choo choo when pushed hard at the very bottom end when you got close to port tuned frequency.
Doesn't work on my PC, keeps giving me an error when I try to save the parameters.
So what were the measurements to make this exact box? I have one 12” subwoofer
Hi I saw this thing on the Internet call the Death Box. Do you think you could build one and put it to the test and see if this thing's any good
I rather take my luck on a flea market used old-school 100w amp for $40
Can you design my woofer box
I have ts parameters of my woofer
Please
Want to build a closed box and im a newbie please could you help with the design?
You do not need a program to build or design a box you can do this by knowing the math
Can you design me a box for resilient Sounds Gold 12
3:44 QUESTION: Is 1.33x the manufacturer recommended net volume size of the min, mid, or max number they provide? Meaning, my 15" Fi Neo 4.11 is recommend I use 3ft³-5ft³ per sub. So do I multiply 1.33 by 3, 4, or 5?
It's important to know I will be clamping a little more than their rated power of 4500 (rated 4500 but Fi says up to 7500 so I have each sub connected to it's own Taramps Bass 8K wired down to 0.7 ohm = 10,000 RMS Watts per sub but again, I expect to clamp only 5k each). Sub's Fs is 33.6Hz so I chose 33.6Hz as my box tuning with port area of 16in² per cubic foot of net volume as recommended.
For more info and videos, see my UA-cam channel for build updates which starting June 2021 will be with my new larger custom enclosure of 8.5ft³ net (4.25 per sub) whereas now (May 2021) they are in a "labyrinth enclosure" (2 individual long winding ports) and only 2.75ft³ each sub net volume and port area half of what is required (8in² vs 16in²) which both (port area AND net volume) are greatly undersized.
I have clamped 7000 each. 155.5 dB on my 2 15s no wall as seen on my UA-cam channel (access by clicking on my YT photo)
hello. can I contact you for subwoofer design ?
How did you get 56inch port area?
claro, pero winsd me pide un cajon gigante haha
1. Why it needs to have a tunnel like that ?
2. We use metrics.
I have autostudio ref12d2 and winisd when I put all specs that I can find says ”Driver data fails intergity check” when I click it says that ”Considtency check on Qts, Qms, Qes” and I placed the parametrics that I found on those
And when I try to use that data it gives me staight vertical line
Hey would you be able to design a box for me for my car
How did u work out the net internal volume
Can I use this sub design in my home theatre
12:29 A thing to be careful of is that port resonance there at the bottom. (1st port resonance)
You'd want a lowpass around half an octave or lower below that I believe, otherwise at a certain volume it'll resonate and sound terrible.
It's only an issue if you plan to play up to that area.
Also from what I've heard from someone who's made over 300+ boxes 23-24m/s is good as long as you have a flared/rounded port you shouldn't hear chuffing. Though 17m/s is better if you can hit that or below.
Thank you!!!! If only I could put that in the video right now 😅. I've always known about Port resonance but not much about how it really works or anything. I vividly remember how bad the port resonance was on some logitech systems, just a constant high-bass whine at 35hz and lower
@@chrisosbass1286 I've experienced a lot of port noise (source: Logitech z623) so I've figured out that a great way to reduce port noise is, ironically, to put dampening inside the port. Add a small amount of carpeting at the very beginning of the port and you'll have substantially less noise to deal with.
Wow! too detailed for layman like me...
I was kinda hoping just keying sub name and desired Low frequency and "vwalla" a box design emerges...
Eg Pioneer 12" TS-W3003D4 Champion Series PRO 2000W Car Subwoofer, and desiring 25Hz... what will be the box dimensions?
do you think chines replicas of sony/kenwood subwoofer would be good enough to build a sub? i am looking for a sub for my home theater. and i doubt chinese versions ever go above 500rms.
i usually listen to main channels at 80-85db and subwoofer at around 90-100db.
bro, I fixed everything right, the parameters are ok, but when I go to save an error appears on the screen, how am I going to do it so it doesn't happen anymore
Ok so questions if I have a dvc 4 wired in parallel which drops too 2ohms and 2 of them which drops too 1ohm and 1200 watt amp I'm a building a box for a 2ohm sub 600rms or is 1 at 600 or 1 at 1200 or maybe I'm over thinking it
Basically learn WinIsd, Good walk through on tweaking box parameters to meet xmax, decibel considerations.
How big should the speaker box should be if iam going to put 2 4" tweeters and 2 10" midrange speakers and 2 18" subwoofers
Superb! Well done. Clear, logical instructions.
Hi friend is it safe to tune the cabinet lower than the FS rating like my sub has a FS RATING of 35 HZ and I want a box tuned to 26 will I blow my sub thanks in advance
Is the volume with or without the port?
So if my port is 3 inch in diameter and 8 inches long that’s what a box maker app says to do. So my question is would two 3 inch ports 4 inches long be the same thing with less port noise. I like 20-30 hz and 30 hz to me is high. I’m just getting tons of air velocity and port noise. Custom 15 inch sub W/solo X 18 motor internal box vol is 4.2 including sub box maker said a 3 inch port 8 inches long would give me a 25hz tune roughly. Using straight pipe For Now going to flare myself or buy just want the right formula first. Thanks in advance. You’ve already helped me and let me know I’m not the only one who’d rather rumble and make people wonder where/what it’s coming from 😎then announce to the world I have subwoofers in my car. Low not loud.
One of the best and most complete breakdowns on design and tweaking of a sub box I've seen yet... Nice job...
Now I have a new problem. I dont believe subbox Pro allows you too build a box for kickers solo baric series of subs so i believe subbox pro wont help with designing a box unless i am wrong...
i have noname speaker that have no info about these ts parameters, and i know only the box dimensions, do somehow will i get atleast the speaker frequency response? it can play as low as i want, it can go 1hz (at 20hz it have ~10mm movement at 30hz have ~14mm movement and 40hz it have ~12mm movement at twoway ) its a 30w 8R speaker :)
500 rms 😂 i have 80 rms 10 inch subwoofer playing like a air pumb and shaking everythinh in a funny way
Tsp's control extension more than x-max. If the driver can't couple with the air at low frequencies, x-max will not matter. Low qts will rely on the enclosure to produce frequencies near or below fs.
Volume of the enclosure is determined by vas and qts, tuning is controlled by fs and qts, and optimum port area will be dictated by qes and vas.
The predicted x-max is based on no decrease in cms as the spider stretches. Design ports by vent mach, a mach of .03-.05 is best. A port to small will add power compression by overly restricting movement near and @ tuning.
Any feelings on kerfed ports? I've heard your port starts at point of desired port area... And do flare the inside opening? Subs closer as possible to each other or further apart as possible or no difference. If port ends half way thru do you add another 90° to aim towards the baffle? My current single 18 is tuned to 28htz it slams on bass boosted music but totally flops in higher notes and starts clipping very soon.
I've asked before but nvr got a response I have 4 skar svr12s so is 10.5 cubes good and tuned to 20hz with a port area of 11cubes per cubic ft is that ok or does port area got to be lower
My 12 hcca just doesn't seem to hit like it needs I have it too a zues 3200 d, even hooked a car battery up in the back and it don't play any better. I have it a box to spec for this 12 at 33 hz. Plays best on CD. But I think I need a bigger box
🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔 I'm 5.3cu at 27hz same sub... Super curious to what my literal peaks are... I never looked at it from your angle I can say lol
This is how you design a box that makes bass have no impact. I've designed plenty of boxes what I know to big of a box, the slam doesn't hurt your chest. Yes it will go low and loud.
Only just found this video but omg I've learnt so much from this 1 video than all the others combined
Good afternoon I have a question for you. Do you know what software program is used that I can put in the idea I have for Tops and subs and it would give me the best way to make speaker boxes
also the program is somehow unusable it says if i wanna start a new project: "division by zero" if i cancel that to avoid corruption the app closes, but if i proceed, the app crashes.
POV at after reinstall: the app seems like workin
Second POV: the apps seems not working when i wanna start a project
POV 3: i can continue with built in speakers but not my speaker
Any chance you design boxes for people? I tried following along and trying to get good numbers for a JL 12TW3-D8 but I'm confused as all hell lol
Your video is a life saver, made a 25hz box, for my 1500w woofer and it plays lows so good. Thank you for this video man!
Why can’t I see the red line on cone excursion? Like I can see my graph and know my Xmas one way is 19mm and base off that but I just don’t see a red line
I have 2 ground zero gziw 300 - II it has 10mm xmax and 350w rms but i have a big box and im gonna try to add 2 extra walls inside the box to see if it helps with lower frequenzies