Very helpful. It was the only reference I found that showed the engine raised and lowered to aid the removal of some bolts. I was not sure how for the engine would move. Thank you....
Exellent how to replace cam belt video. Its the best step by step video., I am a DIY guy, I have replaced my 2.0 Tdi in 2020, I am about to do it again in a month's time and this is indeed a good recap of how to. I like how you are meticulously rechecking to ensure that you dont miss anything.👌
Hey bud sorry for the delay, thank you for the comment 👍 glad the video is useful and I don’t like to make a mistake so re checking once or twice alway helps.
Great video my friend, no disco music just great advice and experience passed to the viewers. It really is one of the best on this subject. One addition I do when stripping stuff down is to drop each part, bracket whatever plus fixings into boxes or bags with a note to self if one or more bolts are different lengths, shanks even. Life sometimes interrupts is and you can get diverted for a day or so. But I repeat, best timing belt video I've seen bar none.
That's a top tip about the fuel line elbow connections (Blue and black ) Don't go near them, I just did and broke one. (Very fragile) VW want 135 euro... great video, nice one
Brilliant video as always m8 pick up alot of information the way you explain it all. You don't hide the bad bits you tell it as it is. Keep then coming
Thanks, great video. Just completed a water pump and timing belt on a Skoda Yeti 2.0 using the video. Marking the pump pulley was very important and on the Skoda it was easier to disconnect the hoses at the fuel filter end rather than the bulkhead end. Otherwise procedure was excellent.
Nice step by step video. As an old time mechanic I always used to spend a good few minuets going over in my head each and every step. I also used to mark each bolt as I tightened it before moving on. I can honestly say I missed very few loose bolts in my time. Great advise and yes I only ever used a torque wrence for head bolts. The rest use tightened to the German 'Goodentight' spec 😃😃
Thank you for a very informative video, I have to do this job on my son's VW Eos this coming Saturday, not done one for a while now and will have to look through all my boxes to find my locking tool.
Hey Karl thank you mate.. I broke and rushed things in my early years and learned from my mistakes. Nothing worse than doing a job twice so I take my time and get it right first time.
Nice vid. Just want to mention that the engine mounting bolts are stretch bolts and therfore one time use. New ones should be used on reassembly. Cheers.
@@YTDTETV Wish you were in Algarve Portugal mate, Id be round straight away with my MK 7, they want an arm & a leg for doing this job & i am not very confident in them to be honest, sorry to say
just about to do this on a 2017 passat TDI thanks for the video, its done 210,000 kilometres so i guess its due for it. Belt done at 100,000k, second one now
First time I did my timing belt/water pump it took me the weekend, I did check the timing using the crank several times but when re-assembled it wouldn't turn over, it had slipped a tooth or two so I had to re-strip it again and on the second attempt it worked, ALWAYS check via the crank.
VW sharan 2011 2.0 cffb. I found no need to disconnect fuel lines. For coolant I have disconnected the hose at the bottom near aux heater where its comfortable to catch it.Drained as much as I can,so when water pump out it was very minimum coolant coming out.Gates kit dont have tentioner lever,weard and a bit scary to put in.But job done. SKF was on the vehicle probably from the factory (108k miles),tentioner bearing making a nose when spinning,the rest of the components spot on. After doing the job I think genuen kit from tps will be my next one. Yes gates and other aftermarket kits are decent,but difference in the price is not as big,so genuen next time. Ones again thank you for the video.
Hey bud that’s awesome 👍👍 nice tips there I’ll try not disconnecting fuel lines next time. Good job you changed then if one of the bearings where noisy. Glad the video was of use, appreciate your comments 👍
Good video mate i am gonna do one tomorrow did quite alot of these just came to refresh my memory! Just like you said leave the studs don't touch them💪🏼
once the belt is assembled, tensioner set in its position, and pulleys tightened you need to remove the pins and spin the engine 2x 360deg, and try if the timing pins can be placed with no problems. If they don't fit, you need to release the tensioner, undo both pulleys put pins in place, set the tensioner in position and so on until you can put pins in place after you've rotated the the crankshaft twice. Absolutely, under no circumstances the engine is started without coolant! The coolant pump seals are made of graphite and lubricated with coolant! They will die really quick if run dry . 10:30 actually I have managed to bend one of the studs while undoing the tensioner in the past. It was enough to feed the belt on to the cam pulley wrongly and ground half of the belt within 6months. Luckily I've had this car again within the short period and saved a lot of money on refurbishing this engine. Also everything has been torqued correctly in the factory. Once undone, the same "strained" threads can no longer be torqued with the same momentum, hence why they must be replaced.
Hi Nigel thank you mate 👍 I sometimes wonder if I go into to much detail so I appreciate that. I think I’ve said before I’ve never worked on an eos but I know they are basically a golf and they are nice to work on.
Just had my VW Caddy van re-mapped after an EGR valve failure. He said that all VWs are ECU programmed to fail namely the EGR value, Glow plugs and then the injectors before it gets to 100k. Best £300 I have ever spent getting all the self destruct codes deleted.
Nice video! I had a timing belt tensioner stud shear on my old 1.9tdi golf and that killed my engine. But it had done over 230,000 miles. Maybe it had been over torqued when installed. Or the belt over tensioned. Because of that I think I would probably change the studs in future. But like you say it's added faff and you could end up in a pickle if it cross threads etc so maybe best left alone.
Started mine, felt unwell, I had CoVid, finished the following week. It's one of the more nervous belt changes I've done. Takes a bit of jiggling with locking pins and pulleys to get it lined up. I spent about 7 slow hours.
Hey bud glad your feeling better, definitely better to take your time with a timing belt and recheck everything a few times to be confident when turning the key for the first time 👍
Hi bud thank you 👍, after inspecting closely the pin that I put in the pump wasn’t doing anything. Also on a modern common rail engine like this one the pump isn’t actually timed up as the fuel pump only produces a constant high pressure at all times it’s the electric injectors that do the timing from the ecu. Just to be on the safe side I would mark the pulley with abit of tipex or something then re align when you put the belt back on. 👍
I changed the belt on a Peugeot DW10BTED4 RHR engine in a 307. Not as difficult as I thought. I'll do the Jetta with the CFFB engine myself as well as the EGR system why flow issues and the oil filter housing as the plastic thread the lid is stuffed
Great demo. My touran just started sqeaking loudly whilst in motion. I first thought of bearings . It had a bit of judder about 10 mins before sitting at traffic lights. . How much would this cost at the garage . It doesn't feel like a misfire so I'm really hoping they dont say injectors
Excellent video and good camera work, good that you explained the possible tip falls on this job. Just would like to suggest maybe you need to highlight the need to prime the fuel system thoroughly before starting.
Hey Colin thank you for your comment 👍👍 yes your right flicking the key in and off 5-10 times is definitely needed. When making these videos it sometimes get hard to remember to mention all of the tips as focusing on the actual job and a camera sometimes gets a little tricky.
Hello. I found your video helpful but would like to point out the error in the video which will lead people to a bad experience. at 8.30 in your video you are putting the pin into the wrong hole. I found the same IE the hole was slightly off to take the pin but thats because it is the wrong hole. The Pump locking pin does not go throught the Vernier drive gear. If you look Just below the belt on the top left of the pulley there is a pin hole and a Rotating plate which you lock together it is actually behind the toothed gear. Luckily I marked the old belt before removal and then transferred the marks to the new belt. I had moved the vernier back to put the locking pin in the wrong hole which is off because the hole you can't see but visible with an inspection mirror is the correct one to pin. Upon assembly the car was v difficult to start even though the pump was only v slightly out. Once I realised the problem it was straightforward to rectify... You put the pin above the toothed pulley at about the 11 oclock mark... Hope this helps folk. Cheers. neil.
nice video, just want to say, I have actually seen the tensioner stud draw itself out when tightening the tensioner up. that will be the reason why they are in the kits. but like you said dont fix what aint broken!
Hi there thank you 👍 I’ve not seen one pull from the head but I have heard from a few friends they have seen it, I wonder if it’s the original factory ones that pull out or some that have already been done.
when you retensioned the belt after ther arrow had moved out the window, did you loosen off the came belts? im at this staged now, the arrow has moved out the window. do i just retension without loosening anything off?
Hey mate, I’ve got a question I’m really hoping you can answer! I’ve recent got a van that has had the timing belt done on it, I think the mechanic that did it put too much tension on the belt and it’s about 12-14mm off the mark for the centre and is making an annoying noise. My question is, can I very carefully reduce a small bit tension off the belt without affecting the timing of the engine? Or will it need to be retimed if I do? Thanks!
Hey Tony thank you for the comment, your right about eBay you never know. Do you have a euro car parts branch anywhere near you? If not a decent parts supplier should be able to get one, I like GATES a gates kit but there is a few other good brands.
Great video thanks. Can you help me, rotated engine twice, cam and crank line up on the money. My injector pump was not locating the the u marker. Slackened off the 3 x bolts in the pulley and moved it into the locator hole as it was pinned before belt removal. However the pulley is out 1 tooth on the pump based on my paint marker. As this is a CR engine is that okay ? This pump is only to pressurise the fuel system rather than time according to what I have read.
Hi bud sorry for the delay, yes it being a CR engine it’s the same and no the pump doesn’t need to be lined up just anywhere is ok as it just pressurises the fuel instead of specific timing. Hope you sorted it 👍
Hey Thomas thank you, loosening the cam bolts makes it easier to get the belt on, you can leave them done up but it’s abit more of a wiggle to get the belt on.
152k miles,I take its second timing belt kit for this? Mine is 110k miles,never been done. Manual said good up to 210k km,but I'll do it now.Also 11 years car,so I recon it's time to change. Thank you for sharing.
Hi bud yes I’d say it must be it’s 2nd replacement, I’d say 110k miles yes yours is due. These vw’s have a really thick and wide belt so they last longer than others. I saw an Alfa Romeo belt snap at 46k, I replaced the head. Thank you for the comment 👍👍
I have a scirocco 2.0 TDi and my camshaft position sensor is giving me errors. I brought a new Oem one but I looked today and can’t get the camshaft cover off and it’s tight. Is there any way of changing it without doing these steps? or is it a job alongside changing the timing belt?
Very well explained, much appreciated. I've borrowed a set of crank locking segments and just like yours I notice the radius and pitch of the teeth don't locate perfectly across the whole of the crank pulley arc. I know it's wrong because it doesn't sit across the profile properly before pushing it reward into the timing case. Strangely enough the other segment in the kit fits the crank pulley profile but obviously the pointers in the wrong position to match the crank, so that's no good either. This troubles me that I don't have the crank locked off in exactly the correct position or that it could rotate a degree or two during belt fitting, am I being overly cautious and have you come across this ?
Hey bud thank you 👍 first of all no your not being overly cautious especially with a timing belt. So my locking tool doesn’t seem to sit right either as you say the radius doesn’t match the bottom crank pulley, it only sits in with a few teeth that is normal, as long as the profile of the teeth match the teeth in the pulley and the arrow lines up with the arrow also the locator located in the side of the block. Mine is also a tight squeeze it’s literally a case or tapping it in with a small hammer then when the new belt is on you have to tap the tool upwards to remove it as it’s a tight fit. Does this help? Sometimes if you want extra reassurance you can use the tipex method aswel put a little bit of paint on the pulleys and the block just to see that the pulleys are all correct when back together. Thank you Nathan
Great video👌🏻Was this the first cam belt change for this specific car ! I see it’s on 152k miles? What milage would you suggest on these engines for a cam belt change ?
Great Guide. When I go to tension the belt up it means I can’t pull out the Camshaft Pin it’s really stuck in. It was loose in the hole before I tried to tension it up. Can’t you help?
@@YTDTETV Hi. Yes I took belts off again and turned the cam pulled and fuel pump pulley clockwise to their stops and then resin-stalled. Once tensioned up I could remove the locking tools. I did have to make Minor adjustments after turning the engine round at the end. I found a good video showing how to make those minor adjustments. I will post up in the comments. Thanks again!
just one point to mention. ( the crank locking tool. you slide it in.) once in all the teeth lock in and you can't lift it up from above it. you don't put it in from above. but a great video.
You should have slackened the diesel pump bolts and replaced them and adjusted the tensioner with them loose as well as the top cam pulley other wise risking tensioner failure. They are adjustable for a reason
Great video mate. Just having a go at my timing belt now, after watching this a number of times. Have bought a timing belt locking kit of amazon and like yours, the crankshaft locking tool doesn't fit the teeth properly but can get the line and hole to line up. Could this affect the timing because the tool doesn't quite fit snug
Hi bud thank you glad the video is of use 👍 yes the crank pulley tool don’t seem to fit to well only half of it seems to bite all the way into the teeth in the pulley. Al long as you can see the line lined up and the hole for the pin then it’s all good 👍👍
Have you had it where there is two types of tensioner I’m doing mine and have the same kit you have but the tensioner on it at the moment is the other style gates version are they interchangeable if you know? Cheers
I just had timing belt and water pump on mrs’ 2016 Skoda Superb 1.6 TDI. The water pump had some electronic part on it. Some sort of sensor with a plug on it. What do you reckon that does besides making the kit more expensive?
Hey B-ry the later ones like yours have a variable water pump so when the engine is cold the water pump isn’t spinning 😵💫 good for colder weather. I havnt done one myself but read about them.
Just about to do timing belt on my 1.6 tdi caddy and read I need to change engine mount bolts too is that right? All of them including mounting bracket that bolts to the engine
@YTDTETV thanks for the quick response mate, yeah I've heard the same so not sure what to do it's only on 36k miles so might reuse them I'll see what they come out like in the morning 😬
@@deadfool5345 no problem at all, I’ve had those bolts out on many vehicles and never replaced them, I don’t even use a torque wrench I just do them up 🤷.
Thanks bud 👍 that carp in your picture is a beast, I can only see a small picture is it a common? I have another channel I make fishing videos on 👍 OUTDOORDTE.
@@roostaraver oh man go on 👍 anywhere you recommend in the uk? Me and the lads enjoy a fishing trip. That’s what I’ve built the new caddy van for.. track days,everyday and fishing 👍
Hi bud so I normally say every 70-80k miles or every 7 years they should be replaced. Normally if they start making any funny noises it’s already been to long. Hope that helps 👍
I followed instructions and for some reason after 2+ engine rotations. My marks would not line up correctly for cam and injection pump. I feel like I did something wrong. But I followed procedure. I triple checked everything. I feel like my cam or crank is now really out of correlation.
Hi bud welcome to the channel and thank you for the comment, so you undo the cam pulley bolt as it makes it easier to get the new belt on. If you I do it you can mark what it’s sits on the bolts. You can do it without undoing the bolts aswel I’ve just done a few and is slightly easier to get new belt on. Shout me if you need anymore help 👍 also if you get 2 mins and fancy sharing the vid that be great 👍.
@@kawasakiinitful thank you 👍 I have done a fair few so practice makes perfect I’m sure you’ll be ok. I always say in most of my videos take your time, double check your marks and timing then turn the engine over 2 full revolutions by hand then re check. Thanks again 👍
Hey sorry for the delay, it’s a different engine but vag belts are all very similar so you can follow this guide and your belt will be easier than this one 👍
Hello, I was wondering if you can help me, i recently got the timing belt kit you used in this video installed on my mk7 golf (RHD DSG), but as soon as it came out, the car struggles up hill and revs upto 3.5-4k on inclined roads. my mpg went from 50 before install to 25 mpg after. I did take it to another VW specialist to see if it was a tooth off but he said it was fitted correctly, just that the numbers should be reading upwards when facing the timing belt from the drivers wing, do you think the direction of the belt being installed would affect the cars performance? to make things worse, there are no fault codes when scanning for errors. thank you for your time
Hi bud sorry to hear you are having problems and nope the belt going the other way makes absolutely no difference so don’t worry about that, it’s a shame it doesn’t throw a fault code up. Normally codes will come up if you go up a long hill, that gives the ecu time to see a problem and throw a code up.
@@YTDTETV thank you for your swift response. I was advised to take to fill up v power and take it on the motorway for 20 odd miles, and if persists go to someone with odis or another scan for a deeper dive. This is the only time I want to see a fault code
@@YTDTETV I took it last night for 40 miles altogether on the motorway, but before that "Try adapting (also called basic reset) the clutch and see if it fixes your problem. Turn the car off, turn the key to II right before ignition, hold the throttle pedal down to the "button" for 20 seconds, release, turn the car all the way off (DO NOT REMOVE KEY) then back to II, then off again and then start the car. See if you feel a difference, you probably will." Tried the throttle reset, the cars not 100% but it does drive a lot better and doesn’t reg up to 3.5-4k revs anymore. It’s a drivable car, mpg was at 40 after ydays method. Guess the throttle sensor/position got messed up when they took wires out for the belt
Just bought a 1.6 Caddy and this guide is one of the best I ever saw - clear and to the point. Well done sir.
Thank you appreciate the kind words glad the video is useful 👍
Great move turning the engine over the re-checking the adjuster - shows that you are really thinking about what's going on.
One of the best car maintenance / repair channels on UA-cam. Keep going with the videos.
Hey mate I’m absolute made up with that comment thank you 👍 I enjoy making the videos, glad people make use and enjoy them.
Very helpful. It was the only reference I found that showed the engine raised and lowered to aid the removal of some bolts. I was not sure how for the engine would move. Thank you....
No bullshit just cambelt. Best DIY mechanic video I've seen yet keep it up mate
Hey Jack thank you really appreciate that mate 👍👍
this man straight to the point no left or right very clear instructions nice job man
Hey bud thank you super appreciate the feedback 👍
To the point and no faff. Thanks mate!
Thank you mate appreciate the comment and glad the video is useful 👍
Exellent how to replace cam belt video. Its the best step by step video., I am a DIY guy, I have replaced my 2.0 Tdi in 2020, I am about to do it again in a month's time and this is indeed a good recap of how to. I like how you are meticulously rechecking to ensure that you dont miss anything.👌
Hey bud sorry for the delay, thank you for the comment 👍 glad the video is useful and I don’t like to make a mistake so re checking once or twice alway helps.
Great video my friend, no disco music just great advice and experience passed to the viewers. It really is one of the best on this subject.
One addition I do when stripping stuff down is to drop each part, bracket whatever plus fixings into boxes or bags with a note to self if one or more bolts are different lengths, shanks even. Life sometimes interrupts is and you can get diverted for a day or so.
But I repeat, best timing belt video I've seen bar none.
That's a top tip about the fuel line elbow connections (Blue and black ) Don't go near them, I just did and broke one. (Very fragile) VW want 135 euro... great video, nice one
Hey Alan thank you for that 👍 I’ve broke one in the past on a customers car to, I had to replace it of course. Glad the video is useful.
Yes! When it's a Friday evening and you see a new DTE video freshly uploaded 😎
Niceone Mike really appreciate that, I have another video for tomorrow on the van 👍
Brilliant video as always m8 pick up alot of information the way you explain it all. You don't hide the bad bits you tell it as it is.
Keep then coming
Thanks mick, I like to be honest on the channel so nothing hidden with editing 👍 new vid tomorrow
Knowledge is power. Love the in-depth explanation.
Thanks bro 😎
Thanks, great video. Just completed a water pump and timing belt on a Skoda Yeti 2.0 using the video. Marking the pump pulley was very important and on the Skoda it was easier to disconnect the hoses at the fuel filter end rather than the bulkhead end. Otherwise procedure was excellent.
We need more videos like this no bs right to the point with expert advice thank you sir
Hey Philly thank you super appreciate the kind words 👍
Nice step by step video. As an old time mechanic I always used to spend a good few minuets going over in my head each and every step. I also used to mark each bolt as I tightened it before moving on. I can honestly say I missed very few loose bolts in my time. Great advise and yes I only ever used a torque wrence for head bolts. The rest use tightened to the German 'Goodentight' spec 😃😃
Just wanted to say thanks for the video, as others have said, no fluff just the info you came to see. Good stuff.
Hey bud thank you appreciate that 🙏👍
Thank you for a very informative video, I have to do this job on my son's VW Eos this coming Saturday, not done one for a while now and will have to look through all my boxes to find my locking tool.
By far the best tutorial timing belt and pump video
Thank you Chris really appreciate that 👍
Thank you for the video. Very sound advice about being methodical, organised and not rushing 👍.
Hey Karl thank you mate.. I broke and rushed things in my early years and learned from my mistakes. Nothing worse than doing a job twice so I take my time and get it right first time.
Nice vid. Just want to mention that the engine mounting bolts are stretch bolts and therfore one time use.
New ones should be used on reassembly.
Cheers.
Thank you bud 👍 I never knew that about the bolts so will remember on the next one. Thank you 👍👍
Nice video, covers everything without dragging it out.
Top Guy , Knows his stuff this lad. Very well put across son in layman's terms. Very well explained. 👍👍
Hey Carl thank you really appreciate that, I try my best to simplify it 👍👍
@@YTDTETV Wish you were in Algarve Portugal mate, Id be round straight away with my MK 7, they want an arm & a leg for doing this job & i am not very confident in them to be honest, sorry to say
just about to do this on a 2017 passat TDI thanks for the video, its done 210,000 kilometres so i guess its due for it. Belt done at 100,000k, second one now
First time I did my timing belt/water pump it took me the weekend, I did check the timing using the crank several times but when re-assembled it wouldn't turn over, it had slipped a tooth or two so I had to re-strip it again and on the second attempt it worked, ALWAYS check via the crank.
VW sharan 2011 2.0 cffb.
I found no need to disconnect fuel lines. For coolant I have disconnected the hose at the bottom near aux heater where its comfortable to catch it.Drained as much as I can,so when water pump out it was very minimum coolant coming out.Gates kit dont have tentioner lever,weard and a bit scary to put in.But job done.
SKF was on the vehicle probably from the factory (108k miles),tentioner bearing making a nose when spinning,the rest of the components spot on.
After doing the job I think genuen kit from tps will be my next one.
Yes gates and other aftermarket kits are decent,but difference in the price is not as big,so genuen next time.
Ones again thank you for the video.
Hey bud that’s awesome 👍👍 nice tips there I’ll try not disconnecting fuel lines next time. Good job you changed then if one of the bearings where noisy. Glad the video was of use, appreciate your comments 👍
Great video and very clear feel quit comfortable to have a go myself after watching this 👍
Good video mate i am gonna do one tomorrow did quite alot of these just came to refresh my memory!
Just like you said leave the studs don't touch them💪🏼
Hey bud thank you 👍 glad the video is of use, yep I’ve never seen a stud snap but I have seen people ruin the threads replacing them.
Totally agree with you on the studs approach..however..if there is play...you know the rest..🤗🤗
once the belt is assembled, tensioner set in its position, and pulleys tightened you need to remove the pins and spin the engine 2x 360deg, and try if the timing pins can be placed with no problems. If they don't fit, you need to release the tensioner, undo both pulleys put pins in place, set the tensioner in position and so on until you can put pins in place after you've rotated the the crankshaft twice. Absolutely, under no circumstances the engine is started without coolant! The coolant pump seals are made of graphite and lubricated with coolant! They will die really quick if run dry . 10:30 actually I have managed to bend one of the studs while undoing the tensioner in the past. It was enough to feed the belt on to the cam pulley wrongly and ground half of the belt within 6months. Luckily I've had this car again within the short period and saved a lot of money on refurbishing this engine. Also everything has been torqued correctly in the factory. Once undone, the same "strained" threads can no longer be torqued with the same momentum, hence why they must be replaced.
Hey bud never seen that but will keep my eye out 👍👍
Very good video. Step by step and really clear. Thanks!
Great video, great advice to run through the double check on what you have actually done. 👍
Hey Phil thank you mate, I made a few mistakes in my earlier years rushing so it’s just my way of being sure everything is spot on. 👍
@@YTDTETV I do it also after doing a job. 👍
Absolutely awesome mate and I have this to do on my Eos, keep these in-depth videos coming we love em.
Hi Nigel thank you mate 👍 I sometimes wonder if I go into to much detail so I appreciate that. I think I’ve said before I’ve never worked on an eos but I know they are basically a golf and they are nice to work on.
@@YTDTETV no mate, the more in-depth the better, it's the way you talk through it, absolutely spot on.
@@nigelswann2873 awesome thanks Nigel will bear that in mind 👍👍
Just had my VW Caddy van re-mapped after an EGR valve failure.
He said that all VWs are ECU programmed to fail namely the EGR value, Glow plugs and then the injectors before it gets to 100k. Best £300 I have ever spent getting all the self destruct codes deleted.
Hey Gareth if you want a Vw to last then yes a Delete and remap is a must, you will have hassle free motoring now with better fuel economy 👍
Good video, thanks for taking the time to post it
No problem thank you bud 👍
Nice video! I had a timing belt tensioner stud shear on my old 1.9tdi golf and that killed my engine. But it had done over 230,000 miles. Maybe it had been over torqued when installed. Or the belt over tensioned. Because of that I think I would probably change the studs in future. But like you say it's added faff and you could end up in a pickle if it cross threads etc so maybe best left alone.
Really helpful and straightforward video.
Hey bud thank you glad the video is useful 👍
Thank you mate. Absolutely amazing video. Keep them coming
Hey kas no problem thank you for the comment glad you enjoyed the video 👍
Started mine, felt unwell, I had CoVid, finished the following week. It's one of the more nervous belt changes I've done. Takes a bit of jiggling with locking pins and pulleys to get it lined up. I spent about 7 slow hours.
Hey bud glad your feeling better, definitely better to take your time with a timing belt and recheck everything a few times to be confident when turning the key for the first time 👍
Excellent vid and no waffling. Very helpful. Could I ask how you remove the fuel pump without upsetting the timing as you have a locking pin in it?
Hi bud thank you 👍, after inspecting closely the pin that I put in the pump wasn’t doing anything. Also on a modern common rail engine like this one the pump isn’t actually timed up as the fuel pump only produces a constant high pressure at all times it’s the electric injectors that do the timing from the ecu. Just to be on the safe side I would mark the pulley with abit of tipex or something then re align when you put the belt back on. 👍
Thankyou very much for that. A most excellent tutorial, you do it well.
Hey bud really sorry for the delay thank you I appreciate the comment 👍👍
Thank you very much , I loved your clear english ! I not native speaker !
No problem glad it was of use, appreciate the comment 👍
I changed the belt on a Peugeot DW10BTED4 RHR engine in a 307. Not as difficult as I thought. I'll do the Jetta with the CFFB engine myself as well as the EGR system why flow issues and the oil filter housing as the plastic thread the lid is stuffed
Cracking video. Very well put together and explained thoroughly.
Hey rob thank you 👍 really appreciate the comment and feedback. Glad the video is useful.
Nice vid pal ..do you know if the newer caddys 20 tdi 102ps 21 plate onwards are fitted with wet belts ?
Great demo. My touran just started sqeaking loudly whilst in motion. I first thought of bearings . It had a bit of judder about 10 mins before sitting at traffic lights.
. How much would this cost at the garage .
It doesn't feel like a misfire so I'm really hoping they dont say injectors
Excellent video, extremely informative
Hey Alan thank you really appreciate that 👍
No BS or wasting my time BIG Thank You
Hey bud thank you I like to cut to the chase 👍
Brilliant tutorial, very detailed. thanks
Hey John thank you sir glad the video is of use and appreciate your comment 👍
Excellent video and good camera work, good that you explained the possible tip falls on this job.
Just would like to suggest maybe you need to highlight the need to prime the fuel system thoroughly before starting.
Hey Colin thank you for your comment 👍👍 yes your right flicking the key in and off 5-10 times is definitely needed. When making these videos it sometimes get hard to remember to mention all of the tips as focusing on the actual job and a camera sometimes gets a little tricky.
@@YTDTETV yes quite a complex and time consuming operation, many thanks for your
time and trouble with the details
Hello. I found your video helpful but would like to point out the error in the video which will lead people to a bad experience. at 8.30 in your video you are putting the pin into the wrong hole. I found the same IE the hole was slightly off to take the pin but thats because it is the wrong hole. The Pump locking pin does not go throught the Vernier drive gear. If you look Just below the belt on the top left of the pulley there is a pin hole and a Rotating plate which you lock together it is actually behind the toothed gear. Luckily I marked the old belt before removal and then transferred the marks to the new belt. I had moved the vernier back to put the locking pin in the wrong hole which is off because the hole you can't see but visible with an inspection mirror is the correct one to pin. Upon assembly the car was v difficult to start even though the pump was only v slightly out. Once I realised the problem it was straightforward to rectify... You put the pin above the toothed pulley at about the 11 oclock mark... Hope this helps folk. Cheers. neil.
Hi, thanks for the wonderful video, pls can you guys help with a diagrams of Tdi Engines timings pls.
I just watched this, as a part time mechanic I was impressed with the instruction, thank god it wasn't a yank doing this lol
Thank you Peter appreciate that 👍
Great video thanks for your help
Thanks Charles glad the video helped 👍
nice video, just want to say, I have actually seen the tensioner stud draw itself out when tightening the tensioner up. that will be the reason why they are in the kits. but like you said dont fix what aint broken!
Hi there thank you 👍 I’ve not seen one pull from the head but I have heard from a few friends they have seen it, I wonder if it’s the original factory ones that pull out or some that have already been done.
@@YTDTETV oe from factory mate, happened on an Passat. Total nightmare had to retap the head in situ
@@calebrutherford9010 oh man that don’t sound fun, I’m yet to see one 👍
great video thanks. I will definitely be paying someone to do this for me.
Hey Paul sorry for the delay I appreciate the comment 👍 it’s not to bad a job but timing belts is one thing someone with experience should do.
when you retensioned the belt after ther arrow had moved out the window, did you loosen off the came belts? im at this staged now, the arrow has moved out the window. do i just retension without loosening anything off?
Hey mate, did you end up adjusting the tension without locking anything off/loosing anything in the end?
Hey mate, I’ve got a question I’m really hoping you can answer! I’ve recent got a van that has had the timing belt done on it, I think the mechanic that did it put too much tension on the belt and it’s about 12-14mm off the mark for the centre and is making an annoying noise. My question is, can I very carefully reduce a small bit tension off the belt without affecting the timing of the engine? Or will it need to be retimed if I do? Thanks!
What about a vw touran 2014. Drinking fuel no codes, thermostat changed. CFHC engine? Any ideas?
Hay, a great video, easy to watch, easy to follow, where do we find the full timing belt kit?. can't trust ebay. cheers
Hey Tony thank you for the comment, your right about eBay you never know. Do you have a euro car parts branch anywhere near you? If not a decent parts supplier should be able to get one, I like GATES a gates kit but there is a few other good brands.
@@YTDTETV Hi, thank you for the reply, really appreciate it. cheers
Can you show the torquing of the engine mount bolts? Heard in another video they were crazy tight.
Hey bud I didn’t use a torque wrench in these just tight with a half inch ratchet 👍
Great video thanks. Can you help me, rotated engine twice, cam and crank line up on the money. My injector pump was not locating the the u marker.
Slackened off the 3 x bolts in the pulley and moved it into the locator hole as it was pinned before belt removal. However the pulley is out 1 tooth on the pump based on my paint marker.
As this is a CR engine is that okay ? This pump is only to pressurise the fuel system rather than time according to what I have read.
Hi bud sorry for the delay, yes it being a CR engine it’s the same and no the pump doesn’t need to be lined up just anywhere is ok as it just pressurises the fuel instead of specific timing. Hope you sorted it 👍
@@YTDTETVTook a breath and started it on the weekend it ran fine. Thanks for the guidance 👏
Great Video, many thanks!
No problem thank you Peter 👍
Hi. Thanks for the video. Why did you loosen the cam bolts. Tom.
Hey Thomas thank you, loosening the cam bolts makes it easier to get the belt on, you can leave them done up but it’s abit more of a wiggle to get the belt on.
Another great video. Thanks 🤗👍
Hey Francis no worries thank you 👍
152k miles,I take its second timing belt kit for this?
Mine is 110k miles,never been done.
Manual said good up to 210k km,but I'll do it now.Also 11 years car,so I recon it's time to change.
Thank you for sharing.
Hi bud yes I’d say it must be it’s 2nd replacement, I’d say 110k miles yes yours is due. These vw’s have a really thick and wide belt so they last longer than others. I saw an Alfa Romeo belt snap at 46k, I replaced the head. Thank you for the comment 👍👍
I have a scirocco 2.0 TDi and my camshaft position sensor is giving me errors. I brought a new Oem one but I looked today and can’t get the camshaft cover off and it’s tight. Is there any way of changing it without doing these steps? or is it a job alongside changing the timing belt?
Hi great video I need to do cam belt change,where should I get cam belt kit can you please recommend TPS or euro ,GSF etc.
Hi bud thank you 👍 funny you mention those parts places as they are the only 3 I use so any of them will sell you a good kit 🤙
Brilliant. Thank you mate 🤝
No problem thank you 👍
Great job mate
Keep doing it :)
Niceone mate thank you 👍
Very well explained, much appreciated. I've borrowed a set of crank locking segments and just like yours I notice the radius and pitch of the teeth don't locate perfectly across the whole of the crank pulley arc. I know it's wrong because it doesn't sit across the profile properly before pushing it reward into the timing case. Strangely enough the other segment in the kit fits the crank pulley profile but obviously the pointers in the wrong position to match the crank, so that's no good either. This troubles me that I don't have the crank locked off in exactly the correct position or that it could rotate a degree or two during belt fitting, am I being overly cautious and have you come across this ?
Hey bud thank you 👍 first of all no your not being overly cautious especially with a timing belt. So my locking tool doesn’t seem to sit right either as you say the radius doesn’t match the bottom crank pulley, it only sits in with a few teeth that is normal, as long as the profile of the teeth match the teeth in the pulley and the arrow lines up with the arrow also the locator located in the side of the block. Mine is also a tight squeeze it’s literally a case or tapping it in with a small hammer then when the new belt is on you have to tap the tool upwards to remove it as it’s a tight fit. Does this help? Sometimes if you want extra reassurance you can use the tipex method aswel put a little bit of paint on the pulleys and the block just to see that the pulleys are all correct when back together. Thank you
Nathan
I would have put the pins back in while retensioning, and tensioned it with the cam pulley bolts loosened a turn.
Top job mate thanks very much 😊
Hey Richard thank you sir 👍
Great video👌🏻Was this the first cam belt change for this specific car ! I see it’s on 152k miles? What milage would you suggest on these engines for a cam belt change ?
Great video! Thanks!
Great Guide. When I go to tension the belt up it means I can’t pull out the Camshaft Pin it’s really stuck in. It was loose in the hole before I tried to tension it up. Can’t you help?
Hi Tom sorry for the delay did you solve this?
@@YTDTETV Hi. Yes I took belts off again and turned the cam pulled and fuel pump pulley clockwise to their stops and then resin-stalled. Once tensioned up I could remove the locking tools. I did have to make
Minor adjustments after turning the engine round at the end. I found a good video showing how to make those minor adjustments. I will post up in the comments. Thanks again!
@@TC07YER well
Done Tom sorry I didn’t get back to you sooner 👍
just one point to mention. ( the crank locking tool. you slide it in.) once in all the teeth lock in and you can't lift it up from above it. you don't put it in from above. but a great video.
Brilliant. Wish you lived near me. You could do mine. Top job
Hey Phillip thank you sir appreciate that 👍
Nice vid. Where are you located? I need my cambelt replaced!
You should have slackened the diesel pump bolts and replaced them and adjusted the tensioner with them loose as well as the top cam pulley other wise risking tensioner failure. They are adjustable for a reason
Excellent work sir, thank you peace ✌️.
Thank you Simon appreciate that 👍
Hi mate, nicely explained video 👍 what was the name of the sealant used on the pump? Thanks
Hi bud appreciate the comment 👍 I use wellseal on all water pumps, I buy it from eBay. Thank you
Thanks for the tips! Your a bad ads!
Thanks Clive appreciate that 👍
Great video mate. Just having a go at my timing belt now, after watching this a number of times. Have bought a timing belt locking kit of amazon and like yours, the crankshaft locking tool doesn't fit the teeth properly but can get the line and hole to line up. Could this affect the timing because the tool doesn't quite fit snug
Hi bud thank you glad the video is of use 👍 yes the crank pulley tool don’t seem to fit to well only half of it seems to bite all the way into the teeth in the pulley. Al long as you can see the line lined up and the hole for the pin then it’s all good 👍👍
Just take your time, double check all your marks after then rotate engine a couple of times and check marks again you’ll be ok 👍
Have you had it where there is two types of tensioner I’m doing mine and have the same kit you have but the tensioner on it at the moment is the other style gates version are they interchangeable if you know? Cheers
Hi bud sorry for the delay, I’ve heard there’s 2 types but not seen the other one, if it bolts on then I’d say you could use it 👍
I just had timing belt and water pump on mrs’ 2016 Skoda Superb 1.6 TDI. The water pump had some electronic part on it. Some sort of sensor with a plug on it. What do you reckon that does besides making the kit more expensive?
Hey B-ry the later ones like yours have a variable water pump so when the engine is cold the water pump isn’t spinning 😵💫 good for colder weather. I havnt done one myself but read about them.
Just about to do timing belt on my 1.6 tdi caddy and read I need to change engine mount bolts too is that right? All of them including mounting bracket that bolts to the engine
Hi bud I never change them but many people have told me they need changing but I’ve never had a problem re using them 👍👍
@YTDTETV thanks for the quick response mate, yeah I've heard the same so not sure what to do it's only on 36k miles so might reuse them I'll see what they come out like in the morning 😬
@@deadfool5345 no problem at all, I’ve had those bolts out on many vehicles and never replaced them, I don’t even use a torque wrench I just do them up 🤷.
@@YTDTETV nice you certainly know your way around a caddy too so if you're happy reusing them I will be 👍
@@deadfool5345 I’m definitely a big Vw fan 👍 thanks bud
another great video 👍
Thanks bud 👍 that carp in your picture is a beast, I can only see a small picture is it a common? I have another channel I make fishing videos on 👍 OUTDOORDTE.
@@YTDTETV yes bud 41 common , sound I will check the vids out 👍
@@roostaraver awesome is that your PB? 👍👍.. got a new video for the other channel we was at KORDA Norton Disney.
@@YTDTETV 52lb is my pb , be interesting to see norton 👍 and more vw
@@roostaraver oh man go on 👍 anywhere you recommend in the uk? Me and the lads enjoy a fishing trip. That’s what I’ve built the new caddy van for.. track days,everyday and fishing 👍
Hi mate how do you know when you need to replace it on a mk6 golf tdi what noises and symptoms do you expect ?
Hi bud so I normally say every 70-80k miles or every 7 years they should be replaced. Normally if they start making any funny noises it’s already been to long. Hope that helps 👍
Great tutorial.
Thanks you sir glad the video is useful 👍
Superb vid thank you 👍👍👍👍👍
K20a must mean Honda? Welcome to the channel bud and thank you for the comment 👍👍
How long does it normally take to do ?
Hi Phil this would normally take 3-4 hours, you could do it quicker but I like to take my time with timing belts 👍
Thank you, excellent well informed !!!!😁👍
I followed instructions and for some reason after 2+ engine rotations. My marks would not line up correctly for cam and injection pump. I feel like I did something wrong. But I followed procedure. I triple checked everything. I feel like my cam or crank is now really out of correlation.
How far out was the marks? If you line the mark up on the bottom crank, then maybe you need to move the cam round a tooth and try again.
Great vid. What’s a fair price for this? I’ve a 66,000 mile 9+ year old Audi belt that’s due. I think.
Well done sir
Is it necessary to replace the oil pump belt in the e189 1.6 tdi as in the e288?
Hey bud I think they are a chain on these for the oil pump 👍
great video
Thanks mate 👍
Well done kid top man
Thank you bud 👍
Hi bud nice vid and explained well ,why do you have to undo the cam pulley bolts?. Asking as I'm about to do my 1.6skoda TDI. Thanks Dave.
Hi bud welcome to the channel and thank you for the comment, so you undo the cam pulley bolt as it makes it easier to get the new belt on. If you I do it you can mark what it’s sits on the bolts. You can do it without undoing the bolts aswel I’ve just done a few and is slightly easier to get new belt on. Shout me if you need anymore help 👍 also if you get 2 mins and fancy sharing the vid that be great 👍.
Thanks mate you make it look sooo easy lol
@@kawasakiinitful thank you 👍 I have done a fair few so practice makes perfect I’m sure you’ll be ok. I always say in most of my videos take your time, double check your marks and timing then turn the engine over 2 full revolutions by hand then re check. Thanks again 👍
Hi mate me again ,what direction do I turn the engine when checking after fitment please.
@@kawasakiinitful clockwise, if turning an engine over by hand always turn towards/clockwise 👍
Can I follow this for my 2008 VW Caddy 2k 2.0 SDI Engine?
Hey sorry for the delay, it’s a different engine but vag belts are all very similar so you can follow this guide and your belt will be easier than this one 👍
Hello, I was wondering if you can help me, i recently got the timing belt kit you used in this video installed on my mk7 golf (RHD DSG), but as soon as it came out, the car struggles up hill and revs upto 3.5-4k on inclined roads. my mpg went from 50 before install to 25 mpg after. I did take it to another VW specialist to see if it was a tooth off but he said it was fitted correctly, just that the numbers should be reading upwards when facing the timing belt from the drivers wing, do you think the direction of the belt being installed would affect the cars performance? to make things worse, there are no fault codes when scanning for errors. thank you for your time
Hi bud sorry to hear you are having problems and nope the belt going the other way makes absolutely no difference so don’t worry about that, it’s a shame it doesn’t throw a fault code up. Normally codes will come up if you go up a long hill, that gives the ecu time to see a problem and throw a code up.
@@YTDTETV thank you for your swift response. I was advised to take to fill up v power and take it on the motorway for 20 odd miles, and if persists go to someone with odis or another scan for a deeper dive. This is the only time I want to see a fault code
@@TheUmarrawat that is a good tip about good fuel, let me know how you get on.
@@YTDTETV I took it last night for 40 miles altogether on the motorway, but before that "Try adapting (also called basic reset) the clutch and see if it fixes your problem. Turn the car off, turn the key to II right before ignition, hold the throttle pedal down to the "button" for 20 seconds, release, turn the car all the way off (DO NOT REMOVE KEY) then back to II, then off again and then start the car. See if you feel a difference, you probably will." Tried the throttle reset, the cars not 100% but it does drive a lot better and doesn’t reg up to 3.5-4k revs anymore. It’s a drivable car, mpg was at 40 after ydays method. Guess the throttle sensor/position got messed up when they took wires out for the belt