Replacing Your Vw 1.6/2.0 TDI CR timing belt & water pump
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- Опубліковано 12 тра 2022
- what's going on guys a video on timing belt and water pump replacement on a vag 1.6 2.0 TDI common rail.
complete new kit with and new pulleys tensioner and belts, few little tips a few do's and dont's.
This engine is found in many vehicles Vw Audi seat Skoda and it's the same process for the 1.6 and 2.0.
#timingbelt #vag #DTETV
Just bought a 1.6 Caddy and this guide is one of the best I ever saw - clear and to the point. Well done sir.
Thank you appreciate the kind words glad the video is useful 👍
One of the best car maintenance / repair channels on UA-cam. Keep going with the videos.
Hey mate I’m absolute made up with that comment thank you 👍 I enjoy making the videos, glad people make use and enjoy them.
Yes! When it's a Friday evening and you see a new DTE video freshly uploaded 😎
Niceone Mike really appreciate that, I have another video for tomorrow on the van 👍
No bullshit just cambelt. Best DIY mechanic video I've seen yet keep it up mate
Hey Jack thank you really appreciate that mate 👍👍
Very helpful. It was the only reference I found that showed the engine raised and lowered to aid the removal of some bolts. I was not sure how for the engine would move. Thank you....
Thank you for a very informative video, I have to do this job on my son's VW Eos this coming Saturday, not done one for a while now and will have to look through all my boxes to find my locking tool.
this man straight to the point no left or right very clear instructions nice job man
Hey bud thank you super appreciate the feedback 👍
To the point and no faff. Thanks mate!
Thank you mate appreciate the comment and glad the video is useful 👍
Brilliant video as always m8 pick up alot of information the way you explain it all. You don't hide the bad bits you tell it as it is.
Keep then coming
Thanks mick, I like to be honest on the channel so nothing hidden with editing 👍 new vid tomorrow
American here, understood perfectly. thank you for the assist
Hey bud that’s brilliant 👍 I’m glad my accent is good enough for you to understand. Glad the video is useful. Thank you for the comment.
Thank you for the video. Very sound advice about being methodical, organised and not rushing 👍.
Hey Karl thank you mate.. I broke and rushed things in my early years and learned from my mistakes. Nothing worse than doing a job twice so I take my time and get it right first time.
Knowledge is power. Love the in-depth explanation.
Thanks bro 😎
Exellent how to replace cam belt video. Its the best step by step video., I am a DIY guy, I have replaced my 2.0 Tdi in 2020, I am about to do it again in a month's time and this is indeed a good recap of how to. I like how you are meticulously rechecking to ensure that you dont miss anything.👌
Hey bud sorry for the delay, thank you for the comment 👍 glad the video is useful and I don’t like to make a mistake so re checking once or twice alway helps.
By far the best tutorial timing belt and pump video
Thank you Chris really appreciate that 👍
We need more videos like this no bs right to the point with expert advice thank you sir
Hey Philly thank you super appreciate the kind words 👍
Nice step by step video. As an old time mechanic I always used to spend a good few minuets going over in my head each and every step. I also used to mark each bolt as I tightened it before moving on. I can honestly say I missed very few loose bolts in my time. Great advise and yes I only ever used a torque wrence for head bolts. The rest use tightened to the German 'Goodentight' spec 😃😃
Thanks, great video. Just completed a water pump and timing belt on a Skoda Yeti 2.0 using the video. Marking the pump pulley was very important and on the Skoda it was easier to disconnect the hoses at the fuel filter end rather than the bulkhead end. Otherwise procedure was excellent.
Very good video. Step by step and really clear. Thanks!
Top Guy , Knows his stuff this lad. Very well put across son in layman's terms. Very well explained. 👍👍
Hey Carl thank you really appreciate that, I try my best to simplify it 👍👍
@@YTDTETV Wish you were in Algarve Portugal mate, Id be round straight away with my MK 7, they want an arm & a leg for doing this job & i am not very confident in them to be honest, sorry to say
Just wanted to say thanks for the video, as others have said, no fluff just the info you came to see. Good stuff.
Hey bud thank you appreciate that 🙏👍
Thank you mate. Absolutely amazing video. Keep them coming
Hey kas no problem thank you for the comment glad you enjoyed the video 👍
Really helpful and straightforward video.
Hey bud thank you glad the video is useful 👍
Cracking video. Very well put together and explained thoroughly.
Hey rob thank you 👍 really appreciate the comment and feedback. Glad the video is useful.
Great video, great advice to run through the double check on what you have actually done. 👍
Hey Phil thank you mate, I made a few mistakes in my earlier years rushing so it’s just my way of being sure everything is spot on. 👍
@@YTDTETV I do it also after doing a job. 👍
Absolutely awesome mate and I have this to do on my Eos, keep these in-depth videos coming we love em.
Hi Nigel thank you mate 👍 I sometimes wonder if I go into to much detail so I appreciate that. I think I’ve said before I’ve never worked on an eos but I know they are basically a golf and they are nice to work on.
@@YTDTETV no mate, the more in-depth the better, it's the way you talk through it, absolutely spot on.
@@nigelswann2873 awesome thanks Nigel will bear that in mind 👍👍
Thankyou very much for that. A most excellent tutorial, you do it well.
Hey bud really sorry for the delay thank you I appreciate the comment 👍👍
Brilliant tutorial, very detailed. thanks
Hey John thank you sir glad the video is of use and appreciate your comment 👍
That's a top tip about the fuel line elbow connections (Blue and black ) Don't go near them, I just did and broke one. (Very fragile) VW want 135 euro... great video, nice one
Hey Alan thank you for that 👍 I’ve broke one in the past on a customers car to, I had to replace it of course. Glad the video is useful.
Excellent video, extremely informative
Hey Alan thank you really appreciate that 👍
Good video mate i am gonna do one tomorrow did quite alot of these just came to refresh my memory!
Just like you said leave the studs don't touch them💪🏼
Hey bud thank you 👍 glad the video is of use, yep I’ve never seen a stud snap but I have seen people ruin the threads replacing them.
Totally agree with you on the studs approach..however..if there is play...you know the rest..🤗🤗
Another great video. Thanks 🤗👍
Hey Francis no worries thank you 👍
Thank you very much , I loved your clear english ! I not native speaker !
No problem glad it was of use, appreciate the comment 👍
Top job mate thanks very much 😊
Hey Richard thank you sir 👍
Excellent work sir, thank you peace ✌️.
Thank you Simon appreciate that 👍
Great video thanks for your help
Thanks Charles glad the video helped 👍
Nice vid. Just want to mention that the engine mounting bolts are stretch bolts and therfore one time use.
New ones should be used on reassembly.
Cheers.
Thank you bud 👍 I never knew that about the bolts so will remember on the next one. Thank you 👍👍
great video thanks. I will definitely be paying someone to do this for me.
Hey Paul sorry for the delay I appreciate the comment 👍 it’s not to bad a job but timing belts is one thing someone with experience should do.
Great Video, many thanks!
No problem thank you Peter 👍
Brilliant. Thank you mate 🤝
No problem thank you 👍
Great job mate
Keep doing it :)
Niceone mate thank you 👍
Nice video! I had a timing belt tensioner stud shear on my old 1.9tdi golf and that killed my engine. But it had done over 230,000 miles. Maybe it had been over torqued when installed. Or the belt over tensioned. Because of that I think I would probably change the studs in future. But like you say it's added faff and you could end up in a pickle if it cross threads etc so maybe best left alone.
Great tutorial.
Thanks you sir glad the video is useful 👍
Superb vid thank you 👍👍👍👍👍
K20a must mean Honda? Welcome to the channel bud and thank you for the comment 👍👍
VW sharan 2011 2.0 cffb.
I found no need to disconnect fuel lines. For coolant I have disconnected the hose at the bottom near aux heater where its comfortable to catch it.Drained as much as I can,so when water pump out it was very minimum coolant coming out.Gates kit dont have tentioner lever,weard and a bit scary to put in.But job done.
SKF was on the vehicle probably from the factory (108k miles),tentioner bearing making a nose when spinning,the rest of the components spot on.
After doing the job I think genuen kit from tps will be my next one.
Yes gates and other aftermarket kits are decent,but difference in the price is not as big,so genuen next time.
Ones again thank you for the video.
Hey bud that’s awesome 👍👍 nice tips there I’ll try not disconnecting fuel lines next time. Good job you changed then if one of the bearings where noisy. Glad the video was of use, appreciate your comments 👍
Excellent video and good camera work, good that you explained the possible tip falls on this job.
Just would like to suggest maybe you need to highlight the need to prime the fuel system thoroughly before starting.
Hey Colin thank you for your comment 👍👍 yes your right flicking the key in and off 5-10 times is definitely needed. When making these videos it sometimes get hard to remember to mention all of the tips as focusing on the actual job and a camera sometimes gets a little tricky.
@@YTDTETV yes quite a complex and time consuming operation, many thanks for your
time and trouble with the details
Excellent vid and no waffling. Very helpful. Could I ask how you remove the fuel pump without upsetting the timing as you have a locking pin in it?
Hi bud thank you 👍, after inspecting closely the pin that I put in the pump wasn’t doing anything. Also on a modern common rail engine like this one the pump isn’t actually timed up as the fuel pump only produces a constant high pressure at all times it’s the electric injectors that do the timing from the ecu. Just to be on the safe side I would mark the pulley with abit of tipex or something then re align when you put the belt back on. 👍
Great demo. My touran just started sqeaking loudly whilst in motion. I first thought of bearings . It had a bit of judder about 10 mins before sitting at traffic lights.
. How much would this cost at the garage .
It doesn't feel like a misfire so I'm really hoping they dont say injectors
great video
Thanks mate 👍
No BS or wasting my time BIG Thank You
Hey bud thank you I like to cut to the chase 👍
Great video👌🏻Was this the first cam belt change for this specific car ! I see it’s on 152k miles? What milage would you suggest on these engines for a cam belt change ?
Helpful video
Thanks I’ve only done a few of these later ones so thought I’d share 👍
Well done kid top man
Thank you bud 👍
when you retensioned the belt after ther arrow had moved out the window, did you loosen off the came belts? im at this staged now, the arrow has moved out the window. do i just retension without loosening anything off?
Absolutely legend
Thank you mate glad you found the video useful 👍👍
Thanks
I have a scirocco 2.0 TDi and my camshaft position sensor is giving me errors. I brought a new Oem one but I looked today and can’t get the camshaft cover off and it’s tight. Is there any way of changing it without doing these steps? or is it a job alongside changing the timing belt?
Just had my VW Caddy van re-mapped after an EGR valve failure.
He said that all VWs are ECU programmed to fail namely the EGR value, Glow plugs and then the injectors before it gets to 100k. Best £300 I have ever spent getting all the self destruct codes deleted.
Hey Gareth if you want a Vw to last then yes a Delete and remap is a must, you will have hassle free motoring now with better fuel economy 👍
Thanks for the tips! Your a bad ads!
Thanks Clive appreciate that 👍
another great video 👍
Thanks bud 👍 that carp in your picture is a beast, I can only see a small picture is it a common? I have another channel I make fishing videos on 👍 OUTDOORDTE.
@@YTDTETV yes bud 41 common , sound I will check the vids out 👍
@@roostaraver awesome is that your PB? 👍👍.. got a new video for the other channel we was at KORDA Norton Disney.
@@YTDTETV 52lb is my pb , be interesting to see norton 👍 and more vw
@@roostaraver oh man go on 👍 anywhere you recommend in the uk? Me and the lads enjoy a fishing trip. That’s what I’ve built the new caddy van for.. track days,everyday and fishing 👍
Nice vid. Where are you located? I need my cambelt replaced!
Brilliant. Wish you lived near me. You could do mine. Top job
Hey Phillip thank you sir appreciate that 👍
Started mine, felt unwell, I had CoVid, finished the following week. It's one of the more nervous belt changes I've done. Takes a bit of jiggling with locking pins and pulleys to get it lined up. I spent about 7 slow hours.
Hey bud glad your feeling better, definitely better to take your time with a timing belt and recheck everything a few times to be confident when turning the key for the first time 👍
Very well explained, much appreciated. I've borrowed a set of crank locking segments and just like yours I notice the radius and pitch of the teeth don't locate perfectly across the whole of the crank pulley arc. I know it's wrong because it doesn't sit across the profile properly before pushing it reward into the timing case. Strangely enough the other segment in the kit fits the crank pulley profile but obviously the pointers in the wrong position to match the crank, so that's no good either. This troubles me that I don't have the crank locked off in exactly the correct position or that it could rotate a degree or two during belt fitting, am I being overly cautious and have you come across this ?
Hey bud thank you 👍 first of all no your not being overly cautious especially with a timing belt. So my locking tool doesn’t seem to sit right either as you say the radius doesn’t match the bottom crank pulley, it only sits in with a few teeth that is normal, as long as the profile of the teeth match the teeth in the pulley and the arrow lines up with the arrow also the locator located in the side of the block. Mine is also a tight squeeze it’s literally a case or tapping it in with a small hammer then when the new belt is on you have to tap the tool upwards to remove it as it’s a tight fit. Does this help? Sometimes if you want extra reassurance you can use the tipex method aswel put a little bit of paint on the pulleys and the block just to see that the pulleys are all correct when back together. Thank you
Nathan
Hi, thanks for the wonderful video, pls can you guys help with a diagrams of Tdi Engines timings pls.
You should have slackened the diesel pump bolts and replaced them and adjusted the tensioner with them loose as well as the top cam pulley other wise risking tensioner failure. They are adjustable for a reason
Great vid. What’s a fair price for this? I’ve a 66,000 mile 9+ year old Audi belt that’s due. I think.
Hi mate, nicely explained video 👍 what was the name of the sealant used on the pump? Thanks
Hi bud appreciate the comment 👍 I use wellseal on all water pumps, I buy it from eBay. Thank you
Great video thanks. Can you help me, rotated engine twice, cam and crank line up on the money. My injector pump was not locating the the u marker.
Slackened off the 3 x bolts in the pulley and moved it into the locator hole as it was pinned before belt removal. However the pulley is out 1 tooth on the pump based on my paint marker.
As this is a CR engine is that okay ? This pump is only to pressurise the fuel system rather than time according to what I have read.
Hi bud sorry for the delay, yes it being a CR engine it’s the same and no the pump doesn’t need to be lined up just anywhere is ok as it just pressurises the fuel instead of specific timing. Hope you sorted it 👍
@@YTDTETVTook a breath and started it on the weekend it ran fine. Thanks for the guidance 👏
Hi great video I need to do cam belt change,where should I get cam belt kit can you please recommend TPS or euro ,GSF etc.
Hi bud thank you 👍 funny you mention those parts places as they are the only 3 I use so any of them will sell you a good kit 🤙
Great video mate. Just having a go at my timing belt now, after watching this a number of times. Have bought a timing belt locking kit of amazon and like yours, the crankshaft locking tool doesn't fit the teeth properly but can get the line and hole to line up. Could this affect the timing because the tool doesn't quite fit snug
Hi bud thank you glad the video is of use 👍 yes the crank pulley tool don’t seem to fit to well only half of it seems to bite all the way into the teeth in the pulley. Al long as you can see the line lined up and the hole for the pin then it’s all good 👍👍
Just take your time, double check all your marks after then rotate engine a couple of times and check marks again you’ll be ok 👍
Nice job as always😎 whats the going rate to supply/fit timing belt, water pump and tensioner on a BKD?
Thank you sir 👍 I charged this customer £350 for supply and fit, including new aux belt and fresh anti freeze.
@@YTDTETV fair do 😎
Hi. Thanks for the video. Why did you loosen the cam bolts. Tom.
Hey Thomas thank you, loosening the cam bolts makes it easier to get the belt on, you can leave them done up but it’s abit more of a wiggle to get the belt on.
Hay, a great video, easy to watch, easy to follow, where do we find the full timing belt kit?. can't trust ebay. cheers
Hey Tony thank you for the comment, your right about eBay you never know. Do you have a euro car parts branch anywhere near you? If not a decent parts supplier should be able to get one, I like GATES a gates kit but there is a few other good brands.
@@YTDTETV Hi, thank you for the reply, really appreciate it. cheers
Can you show the torquing of the engine mount bolts? Heard in another video they were crazy tight.
Hey bud I didn’t use a torque wrench in these just tight with a half inch ratchet 👍
just one point to mention. ( the crank locking tool. you slide it in.) once in all the teeth lock in and you can't lift it up from above it. you don't put it in from above. but a great video.
I would have put the pins back in while retensioning, and tensioned it with the cam pulley bolts loosened a turn.
152k miles,I take its second timing belt kit for this?
Mine is 110k miles,never been done.
Manual said good up to 210k km,but I'll do it now.Also 11 years car,so I recon it's time to change.
Thank you for sharing.
Hi bud yes I’d say it must be it’s 2nd replacement, I’d say 110k miles yes yours is due. These vw’s have a really thick and wide belt so they last longer than others. I saw an Alfa Romeo belt snap at 46k, I replaced the head. Thank you for the comment 👍👍
I just had timing belt and water pump on mrs’ 2016 Skoda Superb 1.6 TDI. The water pump had some electronic part on it. Some sort of sensor with a plug on it. What do you reckon that does besides making the kit more expensive?
Hey B-ry the later ones like yours have a variable water pump so when the engine is cold the water pump isn’t spinning 😵💫 good for colder weather. I havnt done one myself but read about them.
nice video, just want to say, I have actually seen the tensioner stud draw itself out when tightening the tensioner up. that will be the reason why they are in the kits. but like you said dont fix what aint broken!
Hi there thank you 👍 I’ve not seen one pull from the head but I have heard from a few friends they have seen it, I wonder if it’s the original factory ones that pull out or some that have already been done.
@@YTDTETV oe from factory mate, happened on an Passat. Total nightmare had to retap the head in situ
@@calebrutherford9010 oh man that don’t sound fun, I’m yet to see one 👍
Have you had it where there is two types of tensioner I’m doing mine and have the same kit you have but the tensioner on it at the moment is the other style gates version are they interchangeable if you know? Cheers
Hi bud sorry for the delay, I’ve heard there’s 2 types but not seen the other one, if it bolts on then I’d say you could use it 👍
once the belt is assembled, tensioner set in its position, and pulleys tightened you need to remove the pins and spin the engine 2x 360deg, and try if the timing pins can be placed with no problems. If they don't fit, you need to release the tensioner, undo both pulleys put pins in place, set the tensioner in position and so on until you can put pins in place after you've rotated the the crankshaft twice. Absolutely, under no circumstances the engine is started without coolant! The coolant pump seals are made of graphite and lubricated with coolant! They will die really quick if run dry . 10:30 actually I have managed to bend one of the studs while undoing the tensioner in the past. It was enough to feed the belt on to the cam pulley wrongly and ground half of the belt within 6months. Luckily I've had this car again within the short period and saved a lot of money on refurbishing this engine. Also everything has been torqued correctly in the factory. Once undone, the same "strained" threads can no longer be torqued with the same momentum, hence why they must be replaced.
Hey bud never seen that but will keep my eye out 👍👍
Another brilliant video added to my saves. So well explained without all the phaff and stupid, annoying techno music.
Hey rob thank you 👍 really appreciate the feedback on the video.
Great Guide. When I go to tension the belt up it means I can’t pull out the Camshaft Pin it’s really stuck in. It was loose in the hole before I tried to tension it up. Can’t you help?
Hi Tom sorry for the delay did you solve this?
@@YTDTETV Hi. Yes I took belts off again and turned the cam pulled and fuel pump pulley clockwise to their stops and then resin-stalled. Once tensioned up I could remove the locking tools. I did have to make
Minor adjustments after turning the engine round at the end. I found a good video showing how to make those minor adjustments. I will post up in the comments. Thanks again!
@@TC07YER well
Done Tom sorry I didn’t get back to you sooner 👍
Hi bud nice vid and explained well ,why do you have to undo the cam pulley bolts?. Asking as I'm about to do my 1.6skoda TDI. Thanks Dave.
Hi bud welcome to the channel and thank you for the comment, so you undo the cam pulley bolt as it makes it easier to get the new belt on. If you I do it you can mark what it’s sits on the bolts. You can do it without undoing the bolts aswel I’ve just done a few and is slightly easier to get new belt on. Shout me if you need anymore help 👍 also if you get 2 mins and fancy sharing the vid that be great 👍.
Thanks mate you make it look sooo easy lol
@@kawasakiinitful thank you 👍 I have done a fair few so practice makes perfect I’m sure you’ll be ok. I always say in most of my videos take your time, double check your marks and timing then turn the engine over 2 full revolutions by hand then re check. Thanks again 👍
Hi mate me again ,what direction do I turn the engine when checking after fitment please.
@@kawasakiinitful clockwise, if turning an engine over by hand always turn towards/clockwise 👍
Is it necessary to replace the oil pump belt in the e189 1.6 tdi as in the e288?
Hey bud I think they are a chain on these for the oil pump 👍
Hi mate how do you know when you need to replace it on a mk6 golf tdi what noises and symptoms do you expect ?
Hi bud so I normally say every 70-80k miles or every 7 years they should be replaced. Normally if they start making any funny noises it’s already been to long. Hope that helps 👍
just put my 09 tdi and i’m turning the belt but there’s a spot that gets a little harder harder but it doesn’t lock up, is my timing off?
Hi bud they do get stiff as the piston goes up and the compression builds up, just to be sure check your timing marks again. Also if your using a small ratchet or spanner to turn the engine over it will be stiff. Maybe try with a bigger bar as that gives you a better feel. Let me know how you get on 👍
Where did you get the timing locking tools from?
I just bought them from eBay, pd engine timing tools 👍
Can I follow this for my 2008 VW Caddy 2k 2.0 SDI Engine?
Hey sorry for the delay, it’s a different engine but vag belts are all very similar so you can follow this guide and your belt will be easier than this one 👍
Hello, I was wondering if you can help me, i recently got the timing belt kit you used in this video installed on my mk7 golf (RHD DSG), but as soon as it came out, the car struggles up hill and revs upto 3.5-4k on inclined roads. my mpg went from 50 before install to 25 mpg after. I did take it to another VW specialist to see if it was a tooth off but he said it was fitted correctly, just that the numbers should be reading upwards when facing the timing belt from the drivers wing, do you think the direction of the belt being installed would affect the cars performance? to make things worse, there are no fault codes when scanning for errors. thank you for your time
Hi bud sorry to hear you are having problems and nope the belt going the other way makes absolutely no difference so don’t worry about that, it’s a shame it doesn’t throw a fault code up. Normally codes will come up if you go up a long hill, that gives the ecu time to see a problem and throw a code up.
@@YTDTETV thank you for your swift response. I was advised to take to fill up v power and take it on the motorway for 20 odd miles, and if persists go to someone with odis or another scan for a deeper dive. This is the only time I want to see a fault code
@@TheUmarrawat that is a good tip about good fuel, let me know how you get on.
@@YTDTETV I took it last night for 40 miles altogether on the motorway, but before that "Try adapting (also called basic reset) the clutch and see if it fixes your problem. Turn the car off, turn the key to II right before ignition, hold the throttle pedal down to the "button" for 20 seconds, release, turn the car all the way off (DO NOT REMOVE KEY) then back to II, then off again and then start the car. See if you feel a difference, you probably will." Tried the throttle reset, the cars not 100% but it does drive a lot better and doesn’t reg up to 3.5-4k revs anymore. It’s a drivable car, mpg was at 40 after ydays method. Guess the throttle sensor/position got messed up when they took wires out for the belt
Nathan could you tell me ow oftern the timeing belt should be changed on a 1.6 skoda superb getting many different mileages i have 77.000;miles cheerrs bro
So on these engines they have a super thick timing belt so do last a while, it depends whatever comes sooner 7 years or 80/90 k miles 👍
@@YTDTETV thanks buddy... this car was inside in a garage for 5 years doing nothing but now the car is 10 years old with 77.000 miles and same timing belt do you think it's ok for another while in your apinion??
@@samtheman419 I’d be changing it if it was mine, no worries 👍
@@YTDTETV thanks a million. your a great help top man for that really appreciate it.
I followed instructions and for some reason after 2+ engine rotations. My marks would not line up correctly for cam and injection pump. I feel like I did something wrong. But I followed procedure. I triple checked everything. I feel like my cam or crank is now really out of correlation.
How far out was the marks? If you line the mark up on the bottom crank, then maybe you need to move the cam round a tooth and try again.
Is this good for a B7 2011 passat ?
Yes bud the same 👍
It needs a bigger EGR / DPF pipe. U should engineer it directly into the fuel tank. Save time.
How long does it normally take to do ?
Hi Phil this would normally take 3-4 hours, you could do it quicker but I like to take my time with timing belts 👍
Thank you, excellent well informed !!!!😁👍
An old mechanic told me to use tipex and mark a tooth on the belt to a tooth on the pulley, do this to all the pulleys. Remove the belt, transfer the marks on the old belt to the new belt and put the new belt on so that the marked teeth line up with the marks on the pulleys. You may need to turn the cams back to where they were before they will line up, as they do move when the old belt is removed. Simpels.
I was thinking about doing this work myself but I'm not very confident and would rather let a professional do it at an auto shop or at a local dealership.
Hi bud so a timing belt is a job that needs confidence I always say a one can do a job if they take there time but a timing belt is not something you want to get wrong.
@YTDTETV I like to take my time troubleshooting and upgrading computer hardware. So working on a car is something I like to do but only if I know what I'm doing first.
@@RefugioVillegasIII that is very smart thinking some people would jump straight in and maybe get things wrong and then it costs more money. Taking your time and asking questions when unsure is better than making a mistake. Thank you for the comment 👍
Hey, what kind of sealant was in that tube?:) whats the name
Hey woody I use wellseal 👍
@@YTDTETV Thank you so much! Just did the job and water pump leaking.. also thanks for the great informative video, and quick response:)
Will be using a similar product when fixing the leak
@@TheToastedGamer no problem happy to help, I use wellseal on o rings and most gaskets as it’s not like a normal silicone it’s more of a thick liquids. Also if you ever have to remove a part with a gasket the gasket won’t be stuck to the surface then ripped when removed.
My mechanic uses genuine vw kit and water pump he says he has had well known aftermarket water pumps leak well before the 80k mile change time.
Has anyone had contitech, ina, gates, skf pumps leak before the next belt change has come round?
Hey bud so the 4 brands you mention are normally really good, water pump life can also be shortened by the belt being to tight when fitted. A genuine pump is always best 👍
Oh ok thanks for reply
Hepu P569 leaks after 5 years and 65,000 km mostly urban drive.
@@accurate3839 i went with genuine belt and genuine pump after hearing stories of other pumps failing well before cambelt change interval
Were are you based mate?
I’m in deal in Kent 👍
@@YTDTETV I need my tímeing belt done to on skoda superb mate. 2013
@@samtheman419 sorry for the delay where abouts are you located?