Put the front up on jacks and Flush water through the hole at the bottom behind the foam. Mine was filled with dirt and salt, you'll see it drain at the back wheels. I now clean it yearly and tape the gaps between the fender liner and fender. Did you remove the bottom portion of the foam?
Just came across this. Amazing! I was quoted $1900 from Eurofed Atl for this service (while it was in the middle of a motor replacement!!!... bad bottom end). I'm happy to see someone making a good video of this. It's a common service that is getting expensive and doesn't need to be, if you have the time. People made it out to be this really complex thing (STI spark plugs) and this shows it really isn't that bad; but if you don't know, you don't know. I hope to find one from you guys on the alternator (who's price surprised me!) and possibly a CP3 fuel pump ;) Solid vid, really helps the community!
By far the best tutorial I've seen on this subject. I may even do this service on my 2013 Golf TDI. I have a bit of wriggle room left with just 89k miles on the odometer. Thank you!
Keep the foam. Clean it out after each winter and flush the rockers and inside of thw fender. Especially clean the top mounting ledge for the fender liner.
Great video, love you guys and use you for parts quite often, but I just wanted to let you guys know that the three bolts on the bracket to engine block that the engine mount secures too are in fact, torque to yield. 40nm plus 180°. The order is rear to front as well.
After watching, about 5-7 videos from others, and doing a timing set on my 2011 JSW, YT recommends this to me 2 days later... Thaaaaaanks. Good vid, a bit too late lol.
Awesome video, I came here because I'm thinking about getting a tdi 2.0. Never had one, but this procedure is just like my j35motor v6 honda. Thank you.
Great video Michael.. followed it to a T and did my TB and all components on my CJAA TDI in my ‘13 Jetta sportwagen.. I did cam seal as well but everything else in this video is great detail and production.. best tutorial videos out there??
You stated the torque on the water pump bolts were 15nm but the screen showed 50nm. Which is the correct torque spec? (It's a 10mm bolt so most likely 15nm) but just wanted to clarify.
Nice quality work. I don't think any of the timing fasteners will be TTY. Just because the torque spec calls for torque plus angle does not mean it is actually taken to its yield point. It is just a more accurate way of achieving a clamping force. VW wants you to replace every bolt and screw that come off the car. Most shops would reuse such hardware if it was in good condition.
Super solid video. The crank bolts mentioned at 54 minutes, I can not see where the link was? I do not know what kind of bolts I will need on hand to replace that are 1 time use. Can anyone advise? Please and thanks in advance
I just finished doing my timing on my 2014 Jetta TDI Sportwagen. I had the hardest time getting the new belt on (INF) with both small rollers off and the tensioner fully turned counter clockwise. Do some companies have different tolerances regarding their belts ? Honestly, the job in itself wasn't bad until it came to reinstalling the new belt.
@fcpeuro thank you for the incredible video. I wouldn't have done it without you. I see at 32:33 on the screen it says 50nm but I think it should be 15nm. I checked the workshop manual and it says 15nm. I'm not sure if it is a typo. Please can you check.
Shoul I be able to start and run before I put timing cover back on. To check and make sure is right.... I did turn over. It didn't start. I resigned everything back up and put locks back in. They all match. Wanted to figure out why it won't start before I re assemble it. Ty😊
Great video. Is the additional tightening torque for the camshaft gear bolts +90 deg or +45 deg? Prior to doing it, you said +90 deg, but when you got to that point, you did +45 deg. I am just trying to verify what is the correct spec. Thank you in advance.
Great video! Only question I have is what is the point of the 5mm Allen that you had in the tensioner? I know you said it was to lock it down for clearance but I but I don’t understand why you needed to have it in if you snugged the tensioner nut down. I’d appreciate any feedback I just don’t want to mess anything up. Thanks !
@@thumper2692If you rotate the tensioner without the 5mm the belt gets tighter, if you rotate it with a 5mm in the slot the belt gets looser. The 5mm acts as a pin to attach internal components to exterior components. You are correct in suggesting that when the nut is snugged down the pin doesn't need to be there, but if you loosen the nut without holding both Allen keys in place the mechanism can violently slap back into its start position, since that's probably not good for the mechanism the pin stays in while you're putting the belt on. I just did the job last weekend if you have any more questions you can reply to this comment
@@thumper2692 and don't forget before you start make sure you have all of your TTY bolts, Harmonic balancer bolts Fuel pump sprocket bolts Camshaft sprocket bolts Tensioner stud and tensioner nut Large roller bolt Those are all one time use only. My kit didn't come with the high pressure fuel pump bolts and I had to leave the car disassembled in the driveway for a week waiting for parts
For the love of god, please correct the screen text torque on the water pump bolts. I took screenshots as I was going through this at work, and I’m now having to replace those bolts because they do NOT like 50Nm.
Make sure you are on the correct stroke of TDC, and recheck your work! If the old belt is still on, make sure all your marks line up and the timing was correct before taking everything apart.
replacing or rebuilding the engine is a lot more expensive. also you can get "lesser" kits that just have the belt, tensioner, and water pump. it's strongly advised to just spring for the full one though (as someone who did just that) because of all the other bits that add up. roller/idler bearings, all the torque-to-yield fasteners that need to be replaced each time, etc.
@41:15 - You didn't lock the three bolts on the cam nor the fuel pump bolts before doing the test rotations? wtf? @45::18 - Do you know how you can break the TDC indicator tab on the hpfp? Doing like you are doing without a counter hold. I see it a lot with inexperienced wrench monkeys.
If there is an award for the best car maintenance video, this one should take the first place
😅😊
I agree. Great job!
Yup excellent videos, I get all the parts for my crappy German cars from fcp
Just finished the timing belt on my 2011 Golf TDI. I bought the FCP kit, and I could not have done it without this video! Thank you, my friend!
Pulled my foam out in front wheelwell. It was soaked and we havent had rain for a month. This was one of the greatest diy vids my eyes ever did see!!
Put the front up on jacks and Flush water through the hole at the bottom behind the foam. Mine was filled with dirt and salt, you'll see it drain at the back wheels. I now clean it yearly and tape the gaps between the fender liner and fender.
Did you remove the bottom portion of the foam?
@ i removed all of it. It was a big chunk
Just came across this. Amazing! I was quoted $1900 from Eurofed Atl for this service (while it was in the middle of a motor replacement!!!... bad bottom end). I'm happy to see someone making a good video of this. It's a common service that is getting expensive and doesn't need to be, if you have the time. People made it out to be this really complex thing (STI spark plugs) and this shows it really isn't that bad; but if you don't know, you don't know.
I hope to find one from you guys on the alternator (who's price surprised me!) and possibly a CP3 fuel pump ;)
Solid vid, really helps the community!
Bonjour , merci pour cette très belle vidéo qui m'a beaucoup aidé a faire ma distribution.
Pour le couple de serrage de la pompe à eau c'est 15nm .
By far the best tutorial I've seen on this subject. I may even do this service on my 2013 Golf TDI. I have a bit of wriggle room left with just 89k miles on the odometer. Thank you!
💙
Keep the foam. Clean it out after each winter and flush the rockers and inside of thw fender. Especially clean the top mounting ledge for the fender liner.
I like how relaxed and not much explanation but straight to the point.
JUST as MK6 JETTA 1.6TDI
💙
Amazing video!!! I have to do the High pressure pump on mine. This was way more than helpful. Im so confident I can do this!
Great video, love you guys and use you for parts quite often, but I just wanted to let you guys know that the three bolts on the bracket to engine block that the engine mount secures too are in fact, torque to yield. 40nm plus 180°. The order is rear to front as well.
After watching, about 5-7 videos from others, and doing a timing set on my 2011 JSW, YT recommends this to me 2 days later... Thaaaaaanks. Good vid, a bit too late lol.
Awesome video, I came here because I'm thinking about getting a tdi 2.0. Never had one, but this procedure is just like my j35motor v6 honda. Thank you.
💙
Best video ever! Thank you so much. I will share with all vw guys.
Great video Michael.. followed it to a T and did my TB and all components on my CJAA TDI in my ‘13 Jetta sportwagen.. I did cam seal as well but everything else in this video is great detail and production.. best tutorial videos out there??
This video should’ve been made several years ago
💙😅
You stated the torque on the water pump bolts were 15nm but the screen showed 50nm. Which is the correct torque spec? (It's a 10mm bolt so most likely 15nm) but just wanted to clarify.
Excellent presentation keep up the good work god bless you
well done
Perfect job ,thanks.
Nice quality work. I don't think any of the timing fasteners will be TTY. Just because the torque spec calls for torque plus angle does not mean it is actually taken to its yield point. It is just a more accurate way of achieving a clamping force. VW wants you to replace every bolt and screw that come off the car. Most shops would reuse such hardware if it was in good condition.
This is terrific.
my good people
Super solid video. The crank bolts mentioned at 54 minutes, I can not see where the link was? I do not know what kind of bolts I will need on hand to replace that are 1 time use. Can anyone advise? Please and thanks in advance
good video
Is this job similar to the 2015 MK7 VW Golf TDI ? Excellent video ! Would like to see more TDI videos on 09 Jetta TDI and 2015 Golf TDI.
if the tdi has a timing belt it'll be very similar. my mk7 (albeit a gti) has a timing chain.
Amazing Video, save me so much time. Can you guys do the timing for a MK7 GTI, that would be awesome.
Thank you
On our queue!
I like how quiet my mk4 wagon is with the muiticolored carpet layer between the panels and regular carpet so I'd say keep that foam
I was informed that's the belt change is at 180,000km and i saw a bulletin from vag Czech Republic that they are able to go to 320,000km
I just finished doing my timing on my 2014 Jetta TDI Sportwagen. I had the hardest time getting the new belt on (INF) with both small rollers off and the tensioner fully turned counter clockwise. Do some companies have different tolerances regarding their belts ? Honestly, the job in itself wasn't bad until it came to reinstalling the new belt.
@fcpeuro thank you for the incredible video. I wouldn't have done it without you. I see at 32:33 on the screen it says 50nm but I think it should be 15nm. I checked the workshop manual and it says 15nm. I'm not sure if it is a typo. Please can you check.
Nice work John! And go with what Mike said, 15NM!
Shoul I be able to start and run before I put timing cover back on. To check and make sure is right.... I did turn over. It didn't start. I resigned everything back up and put locks back in. They all match. Wanted to figure out why it won't start before I re assemble it. Ty😊
Great video. Is the additional tightening torque for the camshaft gear bolts +90 deg or +45 deg? Prior to doing it, you said +90 deg, but when you got to that point, you did +45 deg. I am just trying to verify what is the correct spec. Thank you in advance.
Camshaft sprocket bolts are +90 and so is everything else except for the tensioner nut. Tensioner nut is 15ft lbs +45
Great video! Only question I have is what is the point of the 5mm Allen that you had in the tensioner? I know you said it was to lock it down for clearance but I but I don’t understand why you needed to have it in if you snugged the tensioner nut down. I’d appreciate any feedback I just don’t want to mess anything up. Thanks !
@@thumper2692If you rotate the tensioner without the 5mm the belt gets tighter, if you rotate it with a 5mm in the slot the belt gets looser. The 5mm acts as a pin to attach internal components to exterior components.
You are correct in suggesting that when the nut is snugged down the pin doesn't need to be there, but if you loosen the nut without holding both Allen keys in place the mechanism can violently slap back into its start position, since that's probably not good for the mechanism the pin stays in while you're putting the belt on. I just did the job last weekend if you have any more questions you can reply to this comment
@@thumper2692 and don't forget before you start make sure you have all of your TTY bolts,
Harmonic balancer bolts
Fuel pump sprocket bolts
Camshaft sprocket bolts
Tensioner stud and tensioner nut
Large roller bolt
Those are all one time use only. My kit didn't come with the high pressure fuel pump bolts and I had to leave the car disassembled in the driveway for a week waiting for parts
Do the sprockets HAVE to be centered?
you might want to edit at the point the annotation says 50Nm for the water pump bolts !
exactly, it's 15nm!
They’re small bolts so would never be able to get to 50NM.
How do you know where to put the sharpie/blue tape on the crank sprocket tools fresh out of the box?
There are marks on the tools already. He just added paint to the existing marks for increased visibility.
I can't find a cta 2777 kit only a 2775?
Where do you get the coolant fill/vacuum tool
This is the one we use in the video and offer online! www.fcpeuro.com/products/airlift-ii-cooling-system-filler-kit-uview-uv550500
For the love of god, please correct the screen text torque on the water pump bolts. I took screenshots as I was going through this at work, and I’m now having to replace those bolts because they do NOT like 50Nm.
No Loctite on the nut?
What do i do if i have the crankshaft locked into top center but the pin won’t go in the camshaft?
Make sure you are on the correct stroke of TDC, and recheck your work! If the old belt is still on, make sure all your marks line up and the timing was correct before taking everything apart.
Isnitcsame as 2.0 tdi t5 2012
I think I'm better off, just buying a new car. Mechanics want around 2k for this repair, not including part cost..
that Volkswagen Mk6 TDI Timing Belt Kit is ridiculously expensive!
replacing or rebuilding the engine is a lot more expensive. also you can get "lesser" kits that just have the belt, tensioner, and water pump. it's strongly advised to just spring for the full one though (as someone who did just that) because of all the other bits that add up. roller/idler bearings, all the torque-to-yield fasteners that need to be replaced each time, etc.
It's about 260$. You can't afford that over the next 125K miles/10 years? That's about $26 a year.
@41:15 - You didn't lock the three bolts on the cam nor the fuel pump bolts before doing the test rotations? wtf?
@45::18 - Do you know how you can break the TDC indicator tab on the hpfp? Doing like you are doing without a counter hold. I see it a lot with inexperienced wrench monkeys.
Did you finish the video? He definitely tightened them down before rotating
@@thumper2692yeah he definitely did stage 1 torque before testing for interference
Vw gti Plastic toys only good for 50.000 if your lucky
Weird my 17 gti has 140k andnis stage 2 with is38 works fine. 😅
Sir this is a TDI