markthomasbuilder need the tool sharpening attachment for the ken onion work sharp. Night and day difference from the standard corse belt that’s good for axes and lawn mower blades.
Just bought the all American sharpener. Absolutely love it! Never been easier to sharpen blades. I change mine once every week in spring (I have 3 sets and cut my 3 acres). In the summer time I usually can get away with swapping out every 3 weeks or so
Installed these on a riding mower ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxetgfkJxfdT_B2vGYP-uNTLaBbim9OKTD . They were sharp out of the box, although I've never liked blade edges that were coated...not quite as sharp as I personally want. Using my belt sander, I removed the coating from the cutting edges and refined the edge enough to shave with them. So far, after three runs, these blades are holding up as expected. Even after hitting a few fallen 1/2 inch or so branches, the edges are still sharp as heck. No edge dings, no warping, etc. As far as installing them, the cutouts were of the proper size and shape to fit my aging Craftsman mower. Very satisfied.
Thank you for the video content. Did not feel like taking the deck off of my zt1 42, pulling all the pins, and belt, etc just to get under the deck to change the blades before the first mow this year. Will be doing exactly what you show here!
Ive always taken the paint off before i put the new blades, ive always just used an angle grinder and get em as close to 30degrees as possible. Its quick and relatively precise. The 1st few sets of blades i got i just left the paint on and ive always had better results and a better cut taking the paint off.
@@MarkThomasBuilder ive used a flap disk, grinding disk and cutoff wheels, basically just whatever i have on my grinder... none of the blades ive purchased, which is about 10 or 12 sets over the years, have ever came "sharp". I sharpen them, theyll cut newspaper after i put a few passes with the grinder on em. Sometimes ive also used my 2 x 72 or some other belt sander as well, but typically its just easier to use a grinder. Learned this from my stepmother who ran a lawncare business for about 20yrs while i was growing up... hey if it works for a commercial outfit, didnt see any reason why i wouldnt work on my acre...
Thanks for the video. I had trouble getting enough height to use my big corded impact driver underneath. Was using some 5 gallon buckets and 2-by blocks of wood. I think next time I might try heavy duty folding chairs. With those back wheels locked, I don't think there's danger of much movement. I'm going to try running it this season without the top spindle covers; they just trap and compact grass cuttings. I use a leaf blower to blow it clean.
Thank you! I put some blade on the balancer from my Scag Turf Tiger and I couldn't believe how far off they were. It's motivating me to sharpen and balance them more often.
I didn't see you talking about the position the blades need to be in when reinstalled? it makes a big differance when it come to the flow of air and the ability to exhaust the grass out form under the deck properly
I like the blade blancer, good Idea to add a magnet!...makes it easier. BTW the deck is clean..I've seen way worse..I've picked up a menards blade and left the black stuff on, I think one day I'm going to invest in a 21 in. Gator Blade-g6.
I have the newer model ZT1 54" with the "S" Blades (490 110 C194) which are very expensive. I would like to swap out the 3 "S" spindles (618P09236) for the Star Spindle which offers a better selection of Blades at a much lower price. Like the Oregon 3 gator blade. They don't make any for the "S" blades. Any one know of a switch over spindle that will work? Yours in the video look very similar.
Guarantee if you use a ratchet/socket underneath, you will have to use a ratchet/socket on the nut on the top end of the spindle shaft. And......the top nut will come loose EVERYTIME. Then, it's a whole different ballgame.
Many people who run a lawn care business sharpen the new blades and balance them before installing them. I'm sure the majority of people just put the blades on and don't notice any issues.
I just bought a zt1 50 a couple months ago. when mowing it leaves a small strip of grass. I had the blades sharpened but it still does the same thing, any suggestions?
I asked my Cub Cadet dealer friend and he suggested making sure the deck is 1/4" lower in the front than the back of the deck, which I'm guessing is how it comes from the factory. He also said if that doesn't work, possibly new blades. Hope that helps.
the rear tires one has more air than the other could be the front tires more than likely the rear tires mine did same thing had 20 lbs air in one 15 in other took them both down to 10 mowed great
Question: I just bought a new ZT1-54" and have cut the lawn exactly once. On my old Cub Cadet 2186 lawn tractor, there was a diagram in the owner's manual that showed the center blade was to be installed 90° from the two outside blades (or, outside blades parallel, center blade vertical). There's nothing like this in the manual for the ZT1. Does anyone here think the blade orientation actually make any difference in the grass ejection or cut quality?
That's a good question. I've never worried about it because you could easily hit something minor in your yard and mess up the way you intended the blades to cut. If the blades are spinning near 19,000 SFPM -surface feet per minute, then I would guess that it wouldn't matter because of the incredible speed.
I totally appreciate the video thanks for the tutorial. I do wish you had beefed up how you raised the tractor a little bit… It only takes one time to have the thing fall on you to have a very very bad day. Take this from someone who’s had a few unfortunate accidents… Be safe! Thanks again
markthomasbuilder Undersrood, I’m certain you know what you’re doing but other may not apply the same care and end up injured. Unfortunately I speak as a guy that doesn’t have all his fingers... been there, done that! Be safe, enjoy - thanks for the video!
It only takes one time walking down the stairs too. And driving a car, and taking a shower, and walking in Chicago. When will people stop jumping on UA-cam to play arm chair safety nazi and push their opinion on what others should and shouldn’t do.
I agree with you. I discovered Gator blades when I did commercial lawncare with a Scag Turf Tiger. They did a great job and I tried several different ones.
I have an old 2012 RZT 50". I get my blades at a 1/3 of the cost from Amazon. Same with my Spindles. (Spindles & a set of blades are $25 for each spindle & $25 for a pk of 3 blades) Since basically everything for a Cub Cadet is $80.. I use a bicycle hanger screwed into my tree to use as a balancer & use a 5" Grinder with the slightest touch to resharpen my blades. I cut a few lacres once a week in spring & summer, then maybe 2 times a month in off season. So she gets run super hard! Ever since a Sears Technician told my Dad to never wash his Deck. I've saved on Spindles. I use dry compressed air to clean off my decks. Looking to buy a 60" ExMark, a buddy has one & it's a Cadillac compared to this old machine.
I run an Exmark Lazer Z 48" on a regular basis that's served me well. I haven't tried compressed air for a deck. I try and use my leaf blower to get everything else off though. This deck has a water spigot that they recommend you use every time. If I start seeing rust, I'l try another method. Thanks!
I bought a long socket bar from Harbor Freight, but it actually is more challenging for blade changes. It works okay, but I highly recommend picking up an impact driver.
You could have spent a lot less time on your balancer and shown the orientation of the blades when you put them on about the star and how they orient under the deck Way too much time on your balancer
I find it hard to believe you were able to remove the blade locking nut without first using a paver brick 🧱 or wood block to wedge the blade in place so the blade doesn’t rotate while trying to counterclockwise the locking nut 🔩
Impact wrenches sometimes prevent you from needing to wedge the blade. My old Scag mower was a different story though. The blades on that would get very tight after several hours of mowing.
QUESTION OF THE DAY: What blade sharpener do you think is the best? How often do you sharpen your mower blades?
markthomasbuilder need the tool sharpening attachment for the ken onion work sharp. Night and day difference from the standard corse belt that’s good for axes and lawn mower blades.
Just bought the all American sharpener. Absolutely love it! Never been easier to sharpen blades. I change mine once every week in spring (I have 3 sets and cut my 3 acres). In the summer time I usually can get away with swapping out every 3 weeks or so
Installed these on a riding mower ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxetgfkJxfdT_B2vGYP-uNTLaBbim9OKTD . They were sharp out of the box, although I've never liked blade edges that were coated...not quite as sharp as I personally want. Using my belt sander, I removed the coating from the cutting edges and refined the edge enough to shave with them. So far, after three runs, these blades are holding up as expected. Even after hitting a few fallen 1/2 inch or so branches, the edges are still sharp as heck. No edge dings, no warping, etc. As far as installing them, the cutouts were of the proper size and shape to fit my aging Craftsman mower. Very satisfied.
Thank you for the video content. Did not feel like taking the deck off of my zt1 42, pulling all the pins, and belt, etc just to get under the deck to change the blades before the first mow this year. Will be doing exactly what you show here!
Sounds good, thanks for sharing!
Great idea, the impact drill and balancer. Thanks!
You bet!
Thanks for showing, I have little questions what number is the nut range? Tganks
Ive always taken the paint off before i put the new blades, ive always just used an angle grinder and get em as close to 30degrees as possible. Its quick and relatively precise. The 1st few sets of blades i got i just left the paint on and ive always had better results and a better cut taking the paint off.
Interesting, I know over time the paint comes off, but that takes awhile. Did you use a flap disc to remove the paint?
@@MarkThomasBuilder ive used a flap disk, grinding disk and cutoff wheels, basically just whatever i have on my grinder... none of the blades ive purchased, which is about 10 or 12 sets over the years, have ever came "sharp". I sharpen them, theyll cut newspaper after i put a few passes with the grinder on em. Sometimes ive also used my 2 x 72 or some other belt sander as well, but typically its just easier to use a grinder. Learned this from my stepmother who ran a lawncare business for about 20yrs while i was growing up... hey if it works for a commercial outfit, didnt see any reason why i wouldnt work on my acre...
I put new blades on min and ran it for 5 minutes… bam paint was off of the cutting surfwces
Do u need the balancer if the blades are new
@@rickschwab8270 do u need a balancer if there new
Thank you for this video. This will be my first time and you made it pretty clear. Again thanx
Thanks, Camille, glad to hear that this was helpful.🙌
Thanks for the video.
I had trouble getting enough height to use my big corded impact driver underneath. Was using some 5 gallon buckets and 2-by blocks of wood. I think next time I might try heavy duty folding chairs. With those back wheels locked, I don't think there's danger of much movement.
I'm going to try running it this season without the top spindle covers; they just trap and compact grass cuttings. I use a leaf blower to blow it clean.
I used to take the spindle covers off my Scag mower, but haven't on this one. I just make sure to grab my leaf blower after each use and it does well.
I will be ordering one of those blade balancers. I use a hand grinder. Good video!
Thank you! I put some blade on the balancer from my Scag Turf Tiger and I couldn't believe how far off they were. It's motivating me to sharpen and balance them more often.
Great video! Thank you! I liked and subscribed. Looking forward to seeing more.
Thanks Bernie, if you like this video, I have another one like this going live this week. 👊💯
The stump idea was very good idea
Thanks, I always have a few around the house it seems since I have a wood stove.
thanks for the vid, very informative and concise
You bet, glad it was helpful!
Very nicely done. Thanks 😊
I didn't see you talking about the position the blades need to be in when reinstalled? it makes a big differance when it come to the flow of air and the ability to exhaust the grass out form under the deck properly
That's a good question. I just install the blades so they're 90° to the one they're next to.
I like the blade blancer, good Idea to add a magnet!...makes it easier. BTW the deck is clean..I've seen way worse..I've picked up a menards blade and left the black stuff on, I think one day I'm going to invest in a 21 in. Gator Blade-g6.
Thanks! The Gator blade is great in the fall, especially for chopping the fallen leaves.
O I saw man....around me there is a boat load of leaves.
Great Video, thanks for sharing. I was hoping that I would not have to pull pins and belts etc to get er done. Woohoo!!
Yeah Willis, that wouldn't be fun if it was that complicated. Glad to help.
@@MarkThomasBuilder Are these 15/16 bolts or nuts reverse thread on a 46 in deck?
Also does your zero turn have a bet of winding noise? I have a new 2023 and it has a small winding noise
Yes, that's the noise from the hydraulics. It's probably more noticeable when it's just warming up.
Thanks for your channel I have a ZT1 coming on Monday have you tried any 3 party blades?
Not yet. I like Gator Blades for my other mower.
@@MarkThomasBuilder wut kind of Gator blades sir
Good info! Easier than I thought. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, glad it was helpful!
Thank you!
You bet!
I have the newer model ZT1 54" with the "S" Blades (490 110 C194) which are very expensive. I would like to swap out the 3 "S" spindles (618P09236) for the Star Spindle which offers a better selection of Blades at a much lower price. Like the Oregon 3 gator blade. They don't make any for the "S" blades. Any one know of a switch over spindle that will work? Yours in the video look very similar.
That's a good question. I haven't heard of anyone doing that. Maybe a Cub Cadet dealer could help with that.
If you do find one, i'd love to hear! I hate the "S" blades...
@@TheShaggyfrog Trying to figure out a swap with out buying all the spindles to see which will fit.
@@MarkThomasBuilder Local deal wants to sell the "S" blades for $95.
That seems a little high, but they're decently heavy blades. I shopped around a little and found Tractor Supply to be a little higher than others.
Guarantee if you use a ratchet/socket underneath, you will have to use a ratchet/socket on the nut on the top end of the spindle shaft. And......the top nut will come loose EVERYTIME. Then, it's a whole different ballgame.
My Scag mower had that type of setup. The Cub Cadet deck doesn't have an exposed top bolt.
It does. Under the protective cover. But mine still won’t loosen
I thought you hit gold. Mine still won’t budge. Great call tho.
i have a ZT2 60" unit has anyone found thicker blades that will last longer? i live in Florida and the Florida sand tears up the Cub blades so fast
What wrench size did you use?
15/16 impact socket
Do u need that if you buy the blades new??
Many people who run a lawn care business sharpen the new blades and balance them before installing them. I'm sure the majority of people just put the blades on and don't notice any issues.
When mounting the balancer I am assuming it need to be perfectly level?
I just mounted the balancer on my wall. I didn't check it for level, but it's probably a good idea.
I just bought a zt1 50 a couple months ago. when mowing it leaves a small strip of grass. I had the blades sharpened but it still does the same thing, any suggestions?
I asked my Cub Cadet dealer friend and he suggested making sure the deck is 1/4" lower in the front than the back of the deck, which I'm guessing is how it comes from the factory. He also said if that doesn't work, possibly new blades. Hope that helps.
the rear tires one has more air than the other could be the front tires more than likely the rear tires mine did same thing had 20 lbs air in one 15 in other took them both down to 10 mowed great
The old blades looked perfect. No point replacing them.
I think I had a year on them. I wanted to have a second set so I can get them sharpened at my leisure.
My ZT1 is SUPER heavy on the front end lol what are you using? Maybe I have one with a thicker deck?
I have the fabricated deck, which is heavier than a stamped deck. I thought this was vey heavy until I lifted it up.
Just bought the zt1 50. I’m curious to see if it’s a star or an s, why anyone uses an s…
I've never used an S style. It seems a little odd looking.
@@MarkThomasBuilder It prevents you from putting on the blade upside-down, the star does not.
Main drive belt comes off everytime I start ( spring is in proper place) any suggestions
I haven't experience that issue. It's hard to say without looking at it. Hopefully it's under warranty still.
Nice
Thanks
How did you lift the mower just by hand?
Yes, it seems like it would be heavy, but it actually isn't too difficult.
Question: I just bought a new ZT1-54" and have cut the lawn exactly once. On my old Cub Cadet 2186 lawn tractor, there was a diagram in the owner's manual that showed the center blade was to be installed 90° from the two outside blades (or, outside blades parallel, center blade vertical). There's nothing like this in the manual for the ZT1. Does anyone here think the blade orientation actually make any difference in the grass ejection or cut quality?
That's a good question. I've never worried about it because you could easily hit something minor in your yard and mess up the way you intended the blades to cut. If the blades are spinning near 19,000 SFPM -surface feet per minute, then I would guess that it wouldn't matter because of the incredible speed.
I don't think it matters - slight slippage at every start/stop over the course of a mowing season will throw them off.
I ordered blades for my zt1 and I received them today and realized I ordered some without the Star and with the circle. Does this matter
I think you need the star, but I'm not 100% sure.
markthomasbuilder yeah I think so. I went ahead and ordered the right ones and got two day shipping. Thanks man
markthomasbuilder yeah I think so. I went ahead and ordered the right ones and got two day shipping. Thanks man
I totally appreciate the video thanks for the tutorial. I do wish you had beefed up how you raised the tractor a little bit… It only takes one time to have the thing fall on you to have a very very bad day. Take this from someone who’s had a few unfortunate accidents… Be safe! Thanks again
Okay, thanks for the suggestion! Your best bet is buying a zero-turn lift jack.
markthomasbuilder Undersrood, I’m certain you know what you’re doing but other may not apply the same care and end up injured. Unfortunately I speak as a guy that doesn’t have all his fingers... been there, done that! Be safe, enjoy - thanks for the video!
It only takes one time walking down the stairs too. And driving a car, and taking a shower, and walking in Chicago. When will people stop jumping on UA-cam to play arm chair safety nazi and push their opinion on what others should and shouldn’t do.
@@ttss5726 Amen to that!
Get oregon gator blades waay better quality and alot cheaper than the cub cadet ones. And for $90 it better balance the blade for me in my opinion
I agree with you. I discovered Gator blades when I did commercial lawncare with a Scag Turf Tiger. They did a great job and I tried several different ones.
I have an old 2012 RZT 50". I get my blades at a 1/3 of the cost from Amazon. Same with my Spindles. (Spindles & a set of blades are $25 for each spindle & $25 for a pk of 3 blades) Since basically everything for a Cub Cadet is $80.. I use a bicycle hanger screwed into my tree to use as a balancer & use a 5" Grinder with the slightest touch to resharpen my blades. I cut a few lacres once a week in spring & summer, then maybe 2 times a month in off season. So she gets run super hard! Ever since a Sears Technician told my Dad to never wash his Deck. I've saved on Spindles. I use dry compressed air to clean off my decks. Looking to buy a 60" ExMark, a buddy has one & it's a Cadillac compared to this old machine.
I run an Exmark Lazer Z 48" on a regular basis that's served me well. I haven't tried compressed air for a deck. I try and use my leaf blower to get everything else off though. This deck has a water spigot that they recommend you use every time. If I start seeing rust, I'l try another method. Thanks!
i don’t have a impact driver… HOW ABOUT A VIDEO ON using a socket bar… Mine is really tight .
I bought a long socket bar from Harbor Freight, but it actually is more challenging for blade changes. It works okay, but I highly recommend picking up an impact driver.
@@MarkThomasBuilder I just did... found a good deal (I hope) on E-BAY... THANKS
Mine have the oblong hole
Get used to changing a lot of parts on a club cadet.
You're lucky you didn't end up with the s-shaped pattern on the 50 and 54". No aftermarket blades!
That's interesting to know. I haven't noticed blades with that pattern.
Hand file every 25 hours
How long would each blade take you to hand file?
@@MarkThomasBuilder 3 minutes
Your deck is a mess! Clean that poor thing. lol
They recommend hooking a hose up to it for 5 minutes every time you use it.
You could have spent a lot less time on your balancer and shown the orientation of the blades when you put them on about the star and how they orient under the deck Way too much time on your balancer
Noted, thanks!
I find it hard to believe you were able to remove the blade locking nut without first using a paver brick 🧱 or wood block to wedge the blade in place so the blade doesn’t rotate while trying to counterclockwise the locking nut 🔩
Impact wrenches sometimes prevent you from needing to wedge the blade. My old Scag mower was a different story though. The blades on that would get very tight after several hours of mowing.