I totally agree. What this guy is saying though, is most people don’t know how to use it “properly”. Kind of like: Yes it is theoretically possible to that reassure wash concrete driveway using the wand. But the amount of concentration needed in order to not have the wand too close (ever), and have gone through the ENTIRE driveway, is not something most people are capable of. Sure it looks clean at the end. But how many instances of “wand too close” and therefore damage to the concrete pores (invisible to naked eye) has already occurred? That’s why attaching a surface cleaner to the end of the wand makes the work much easier. Decades ago, I made the leap from ONLY hand-powered screw drivers, to adding powered screw drivers to my toolbox. What a difference. (Ever tried to put together an IKEA item by 100% manual power?) I stopped being stingy at that point. 😅
Absolutely! I use a grinder with a flap disc with about 320 grit at the very least, 600 to 800 preferably. I guarantee that file he used is somewhere around 150 grit which is way to aggressive to properly sharpen metal. He also didn’t take the burr off which basically defeats the purpose of sharpening.
To all of us who use flap wheels on our grinders and know how to use the tool, sharpen away and use the cone balancer to balance after we are done. Work smarter not harder. 🙂
This video just needs to be taken down. When he busted out the hand file i knew I was in the wrong place. Skipped ahead and see him balancing the blade on a nail. It doesn't show any balance issues. Just get a little pyramid type blade balancer for, what $5?
Great video. I agree 100% and I have used a file for sharpening for over 30 years. Two points to consider. WhenI file the blade I watch for a burr to firm on the back of the edge. This lets me know when the new edge and back of the blade are tangent. That’s when I file as you have demonstrated, with the file straight up, or I use a fine hand stone to remove the burr. The second point is that most blades are mass produced and induction hardened, so the hard surface is about 45-50 Rockwell. Using any kind of grinder or belt, WITHOUT coolant, will heat the blade over 800 degrees at the point if contact, and is hot enough to anneal the edge (draw away the hardness) thereby reducing the ability to hold a sharp edge. 👍great job in demonstrating the proper method. This also works on hand shears, pruning shears etc.. Don’t grind unless you have flood coolant as you are grinding.
No disrespect. The file works well for people in the city that cut postage stamp size lots with manicured type grass. In the real world of rural living where it takes hours to cut grass in all kinds of scenarios the angle grinder is the only and best way to do that. 51 years of doing it says so.
My thoughts exactly! I maintain a lot of fields/woods and running over things is just a way of life. My mower blades would make most maintainers cringe. I either use the grinder to reprofile them or buy new ones twice a year (which I don’t do).
So many of the comments here are from critics who have "used angle grinders for years". Good for them. Some of us have never sharpened a blade before, and don't own an angle grinder. This video works for me. Thanks.
Under $13 dollars at Harbor Freight for an entry level grinder... How much is your time worth? A good Big 12" Bastard Nicholson file cost more than that on Amazon.
@@abbynormal7036Some people don't have the skillset to use an angle grinder. It can be intimidating and I think that the people who fall into that category, for whatever the reason, that they would be comfortable parting with that cash for a job done properly and done well. Plus, the added benefit that it won't be costing them their phalanges or worse... Nevermind the many other factors in why someone would prefer manual filing over an angle grinder if given the chance (ignorance, fear, limited funds and availability via family, stubbornness, lack of confidence, nobody to teach them, don't give a fook, gender adherence, historical ineptitude with sharpening tools ,etc etc) You go on and save your dollars, it's a worthy cause. Perhaps invest in some empathy while you're out, big spender. And obviously, anyone here is likely watching this vid because they want to gauge the difficulty of this particular chore and if it's a viable option for them... Doesn't mean they are or aren't or that they're this or that by making one choice or another. Simply put: Ignorance is the true cost in life; Whereas, knowledge can last a lifetime and everyone is richer for it.
If you've never sharpened a blade, you'll likely do worse with a hand file and round off the blade. Takes some practice to hold the file at angle to match the existing cut on the steel thru the stroke. A good sharpening tool for a mower blade is fairly inexpensive now, and turns a 2 hour job into a 2 minute job.
I always love these videos because they use brand new or barely used blades to show how to sharpen them and always speak out against using a grinder. I would love to see anyone sharpen the blades I pulled off of my riding tractor this week with a file. It would take a week. I did appreciate the nail trick for balance rather than buying that specialty tool. Thanks for the video but I still had to use a grinder on mine just to get the chunks out of it and then I did do a final run with the file once I had it really close.
Yes, you can do it with an angle grinder, but it's more aggressive and will remove more material than necessary, like the video explains. Flat file is less aggressive.
I'm now 47 years old in 2024 and this exactly how my father used to do it and he was wonderful enough to teach me how. It's been 16 years since he passed but I still remember every lesson
Wow im 29 years old rn in 2024 and it’s how my dad taught me to sharpen blades also. He taught me everything else tht I know today. He passed from cancer 10/01/2023..he prepared me very well to be able to continue his buisness today. I love and miss the hell out of him
I always take the file and make a very narrow flat edge, 1/16" or less, along the cutting edge. It's gives you two cutting corners and is more resistant to denting than a sharp edge. Over my over 50yrs of mowing (I'm 78) I've found that this works very well.
My Mom's husband just gave me this advice a few days ago. Gonna try it out and see how it goes. There are waaaaay too many sticks and twigs on the perimeter of my property to pick them all up, so I inevitably damage the edges of the blade every time I mow. If I can slow that down, and still cut well, I'm all in. He told me to think of it more like a scissor blade than a knife edge.
An angle grinder with an 80 grit flap wheel works well for me. I have been hand sharpening, file or bench grinder, for about 50 years about 2 years ago I started with the flap wheel, fast enough that you don't build the heat to pull the temper, slow enough to not make an error too quickly.
Agreed.....with a steady hand, a well worn flap wheel and a good eye, it's an easy task. Most of the guys using a hand grinder are trying to use a wheel that's too aggressive or they don't duplicate the original angle.
I’ve seen about 6 videos of sharpening blades and you are the first one that talks about balancing! I’m like that’s a little important…. Thanks for sharing
Yes I agree with the File method. After cutting a dozen or more lawns a week times 10 years- one gets Good at treating the mower properly. The lawnmower is for cutting lawns- not large weeds, vines and other. It's not a stump grinder! Just grass
This larger die grinder ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxmwiwyX3ADeryrwvcsiwLeKxme6QNQmGL runs very smoothly in use. There's virtually no vibration. Paddle switch with the safety trigger is a bit cumbersome to use, but is much safer. Grinder cannot turn on if set down on the bench.Note that this die grinder, like most others, runs at 25,000 rpm. Always use a face shield and hearing protection. If your grinding stone has any sign of chips or cracks, throw it away. At 25,000 rpm, the stone sees very high G-loads and could come apart explosively if the stone is damaged. Always run the grinder for a short time before using it to check the stone.This tool is heavier than some but very well made.Recommended.
Takes experience and skill. No guessing game once you become one with the tool! Been in the business for 20+ years and angle grinder is by far the best way to sharpen blades
Thanks for the video, I was sharpening blades for a Toro 455d, 126" cut. Heavy metal, was using angle grinder and agree that its not the way to go. So i took them off and used a bench grinder stone that had wire brush as well. These blades had notches, took work but it worked. Biggest deal of all was balancing them, so glad i found your vid because for some reason vibration full throtle made me think a bearing was going or spindle, but no, just bad blade maintenance. Now i run it full throttle no vibration, so thanka for that. Having off balence blades after some time will wear ktger parts and everything on big heavy duty mowérs are expensive.
I prefer waiting until after the first mowing in the spring to sharpen it that way I can find all the sticks, rocks, bear cans, and whatever else blew in over winter with the dull blade and then I can have a nice sharp one all summer. As for using a grinder to sharpen it, the key is to watch what your last pass did and make tiny adjustments not to try to see the actual point of contact. He was right about not leaving burs though, if you leave them on they may try to roll under making the blade dull a lot faster than usual
I agree that a file works well on a blade that is barely dull, but in reality, most people let blades get very dull. A flap disc works very very well in this situation. A file would take awhile and wear you out. For those who don't know how to balance a blade, simply grind/sand/file a little more off the heavy side until it's balanced.
Lot of people on here that post videos think they have all the answers. Been using an angle grinder for years and never had any issues. I will continue to do so.
I too watched my Dad sharpen his table saw blades and hand saws with a hand file for so many years, he was a carpenter who would rather use mostly hand tools except for his circular saw blades for ripping plywood. Watched him sharpen my lawnmower blade and my chisels on a wet stone and have been doing it this way ever since. Thanks Dad.
@@timothylanders3189 Why blow $25-35 dollars for a set of blades when you can get multiple uses out of them for a minute of sharpening with a grinder? Not to mention the time it takes to drive to the store to pick them up. Replace them when needed, anything else is a waste of money.
Angle grinders with a 120 grit flap disc works perfect. Removes very little and the perfect angle is easy to get. It's very quick and does a great job. Been doing it for years !
I'm all with you from the good old-school mechanical perspective. I however mow my healthy green though bumpy field each week and accept the consumption of one set of blades per season. With that I am perfectly ok with using my angle grinder for a periodic sharpening. My 9 year old Simplicity tractor never suffered any motor or bearing issues
The title of the video is not correct, it should read "you can destroy your mower blades if you don't know how to use tools". It doesn't matter what tool you use so long as you create the correct profile without overheating the edge and check the balance before you call it done. It's not the tool, it's the person hanging onto it that matters.
Growing up I would watch as my father deftly used a mill file as he started from the back edge of the bare metal to the front cutting edge. Neatly taking about a millimeter of steel with each pass, he quickly brought down the surface to a razor sharp finish on the last pass…never going over the cutting edge more than one time. It was almost as if you could calculate how many strokes it would take him to reach the final sharp finish. I am 60 now and endeavor to match that technique each time I sharpen my blade…as I think of my Dad.
My greatest fear is, that with modern tech…we loose that desire to achieve with our hands…now a days skills are being lost at a rate greater then new skills are being developed…
This may be the most epic and best comment I've ever seen on a UA-cam video. I'm grateful for all the knowledge I gained from my Gramps'. Everyone today, including myself at times, is looking for the quickest way. We assume if it uses modern tech it's quicker. I have fallen into that trap myself as it relates to sharpening lawn mower blades. I have ran my own lawn mowing service for 5 years now and have used angle grinders, belt Sanders, dremels etc. Less than optimal results. Honestly all of those are more work than this method. More importantly, sharpening this way saves money when sharpening blades daily for a business.
The great thing about the file is it doesn't heat the metal like a grinder can. IMO, the file can remove MORE material in a more controlled manner, so burrs, nicks, and rolls can be dressed off with much more ease than with a grinder. If I were to grind, it would be on a table grinder that won't "get away". I recently dressed a bushog blade that was rounding on its end and it was night and day just truing that end up.
Installed these on a riding mower ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxetgfkJxfdT_B2vGYP-uNTLaBbim9OKTD . They were sharp out of the box, although I've never liked blade edges that were coated...not quite as sharp as I personally want. Using my belt sander, I removed the coating from the cutting edges and refined the edge enough to shave with them. So far, after three runs, these blades are holding up as expected. Even after hitting a few fallen 1/2 inch or so branches, the edges are still sharp as heck. No edge dings, no warping, etc. As far as installing them, the cutouts were of the proper size and shape to fit my aging Craftsman mower. Very satisfied.
That "coating" is just paint. Put the blade on the mower and go to work. The instant that blade hits a blade of grass, the paint will be gone and your grass will be exposed to a razor sharp factory edge.
Not supposed to be that sharp of a profile. That profile will roll the edge with the striking of even very small rocks. This is probably the most common mistake non pros make.
I have sharpened my blades for years with a carbide disk on a 7" angle grinder. Works great and is fast. Make sure the blades are balanced and edge is reasonably straight and you're good to go.
I've been sharpening my blades for over 40 years and never had to guess the angle. I have 10 year old blades still in service. Always grind and balance.
I have used my angle grinder to sharpen my mower blades and my friends blades for YEARS and balance them with a cone balancer and have never had an issue. It's a freakin lawnmower!!
Angle grinder with about an 80 grit flap disc. Run a sharpie marker over the edge so you can see what angle you're sharpening at. Hold that angle and keep the angle grinder moving so you don't overheat the edge. Balance when done by removing a little bit more metal from the heavy side of blade - some people don't balance and feel like it doesn't affect their spindle life. They may be right, but the smoother my machines run the less fatigue I feel at the end of the day. I still have plenty of sharpenable edge left by the time that the kicked up lift portion at be back of the blade has worn paper thin and is about to start shedding pieces. Can you do a whole lot of damage with any high-speed tool? Yes, but, mower blades are cheap, used practice blades to develop your technique are even cheaper, and time is expensive. I'm also going to be keeping my cordless bit driver, my belt sander, my router, my chainsaw and a number of other tools that can do damage if you use them wrong way.
Thanks man. Took the deck off to pressure wash the bottom And spray paint it to prevent rushing and thought I’d sharpen the blades while I was at it 👍🏼
I have owned my present mower for 10 years and sharpen and balance the blades ( 3 of them ) twice each year. My original blades are still serviceable because I do not remove more material than is needed . I expect to continue to use these blades for years to come. I use a mill file.
I’ve used an angle grinder to sharpen blades for years and it works very well. If you’re new to this process and still have the guard on your grinder it helps a lot to keep the angle the same across the length of the blade by holding the guard against the blade to steady yourself. And I haven’t technically balanced a mower blade in thirty five years and it’s never wrecked any bearings, belts or engines and my lawn looks as good as the next guy’s so….
Balancing is good advice. Though in this case somewhat minor but the O/P is being thorough. An unbalanced car tyre is a nuisance and if ignored can cause expensive issues later. An aircraft propellor if unbalanced will cause catastrophic damage. If the blades are unbalanced the centre drive shaft/boss will try to regain the centre of mass. If the engine has to break out of it's mounts to achieve this, If no action is taken it will. When designed, the manufacture will tolerate vibration and design in measures to keep it within limits. Outside issues, poor care, blade imbalance will, over time, cause premature failure.
I always use angle grinders and never balance the blades. I'd rather spend more time on more important maintenance issues (belts, pulleys, linkages, etc). Eventually the spindle bearings will wear out whether the blades are balanced or not. R&R the spindles and you're good to go. I have a 30 year old Scag walk-behind. My biggest problem was that the cutting deck was rusting out, especially around the areas that hold the spindles to the frame. Welding reinforcement plates to the deck solved the issue. I use a weed-eater to cut some areas of a lawn, the string trimmer cuts the grass just fine. St. Augustine grass grows back healthy every time. I'm not convinced that a sharp blade affects health of grass when a plastic string trimmer does the same job. Sharp blades make only an aesthetic look to the lawn, the things that kill the grass aren't the dull blades, it's pathogens like fungus and sod web worms, heat stress and irrigation issues.
I always use an angle grinder with a flapper sanding wheel. It removes less metal, heats the blade less, and it just better all the way around than a file. Balancing a blade is a good idea. You don't need to be OCD about it. You can just pull the vice handle level and lay the center hole in the blade over the round vice handle and tell if the blade is off balance enough to matter. Blades usually get out of balance once someone sees a nick and tries to reprofile the blade on one side, and they do not remove a similar amount of metal from the other. I do this quick check every couple of times I sharpen, which I sharpen my two sets of blades 4-5 times a year as a lawn care nerd with very thick and dense Zoysia grass.
@@Troy-Echo In my world, one pass around my six acre field will ding up any picture perfect blade. I've sharpened the three blades with both a bench grinder and with a 5" die grinder. They both work well and I do balance them since I do have a stepped aluminum cone. It's a few seconds to confirm (or deny) the sharpness/evenness of the blade. It's been working well for the last many years and hasn't caused any problems yet. I keep a couple oiled sets (keeps them from rusting) on the shelf and then have a "Sharpening Party" occasionally.
@@MrGaryGG48A sharpening party. You sound like me. I actually enjoy sharpening blades. When COVID hit, I was in the middle of starting a mobile sharpening business for beauty shears and upholstery shears, and about any type of knife or blade (including mower blades) that people wanted sharpened. Your blade use is a bit different than mine. My front lawn is level enough I can easily mow it at 1" without scalping the grass, let alone hitting soil. My back lawn isn't as well cared for, but I'll be taking some steps this coming spring to level out some of the high spots and filling in some low spots. Far from golf course ready, but now that my dog is old enough she's not digging, I can fill in and level somewhat and allow warm season weeds to fill in until I can propagate Zoysia to those areas. The only experience I have with mowing fields that large was when I was a teenager and we had cattle. We mowed the fields with the sickle style mower to bale hay, but that's quite different.
I used to sharpen my mower blades with a file BITD but now I do it with an angle grinder and a mild flap disc. Just don’t use an overly aggressive disc and watch the angle, perfect balancing is much easier to get with a disc too IMO. Right tool for the job!
The file absolutely adds more precision, and allows you to carefully remove just enough to sharpen and adjust to balance, this can also be done with a diamond lap (the little fiskar files in the garden center). With that said, we are sharpening a coarse bevel (no need for precision) and any experienced individual with an angle or even a bench grinder can achieve the same end in far less time. Most beginners that just purchased a cheapo HF AG can easily butcher their blades, if they even manage to remove them.
20 years of driving hay mowers and sharpening 20 blades every couple days with a grinder without even removing them tells me that a grinder is the right way for some of us. Also, the tip of the blade does the majority of the cutting so that's the most important part to get right.
20 years of doing the wrong thing is not a good recommendation. If you had sharpened you mower blades properly, you wouldn't have had to sharpen them every 2 days.
@@FRLN500 yeah? How much hay mowing you done as a contractor around farmers paddocks full of debris. Only takes one hidden rock to completely take the edge off 4 blades at once and two days mowing is hundreds of acres of grass cut. If you're going to try and tell me you can cut hundreds of acres without dulling a blade because that's how good you are at sharpening then you'll just sound even more ignorant than you already do. Leaving a clean smooth cut traveling at 15-20mph requires sharp blades.
@@ridgerunner106 spend enough time on an angle grinder you learn pretty good control, I'm sure the scoffers probably say I can't dress my chainsaw bars with a grinder either but I've successfully been doing that for years too. However my first paid job was at the age of 14 and I had to take the welds off and finish all the joins on 1300 prison doors. Good way to learn grinder control.
I’ve been sharpening mower blades on my personal mowers, and when I worked landscaping commercially, for 25 years with an angle grinder. Never had a problem.
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
When using an angle grinder you do not use a grinding wheel you use a polishing/finishing/flapper wheel some may call it a sandpaper wheel,,, that doesn't remove much cause you are not putting hardly any pressure on the material you are smoothing out,,,what you say is not wrong for most but a few folks are fabricators and welders,,,, and the balance is spot on 💯
Some blades I had to sharpen had large dents and gouges where a file would take forever so I used a grinder. Long as you balance the blade it makes a difference also.
I agree, using a grinder may be necessary on occasion when there is severe damage but if its just monthly maintenance then a file is good enough to give it an edge. Balancing is the most important step.
Whatever method works, technique is the most determining factor. I was a travelling lawn and garden tech for Sears in the late 90s and used a die grinder to sharpen blades when that was suitable for the job. I had a 2x4 with slots cut into it as a jig to hold the blade at the correct angle for the cutting edge to be level and a few passes with the grinder did the trick, holding the grinder level with the work surface, usually a convenient hard surface. Most calls, however, the blades were replaced as part of a maintenance agreement with the customer.
I have used angle grinder for years. The secret is to wear eye protection and watch where you are cutting. I have to sharpen fairly often as we have moles round here and the little sods bring up stones that are had to spot in the grass.
Angle grinders work great on mower blades. The assumption here is that the person using an angle grinder doesn't know what they are doing in which case anything you use will destroy your blades. There are excellent tutorials out there if in doubt. I get excellent results with my angle grinder.
I owned a landscape and maintenance company for 20 years with 185 accounts scattered in 5 counties. We changed blades every morning and never had issues using an angle grinder. I'd hate to know I had to sharpen 36 blades at a time with a file.
@@markmundwiller5842 these youtubers... they put out a few good videos based on something they know, then they can't stop so they put out videos based on other videos others have already done. The same bad information gets recycled and recycled just cause these guys have to keep making a new video every day. Aaaaaaand you wind up with stuff like this!
I also use a file i think it is a better edge and if you sharpen your blades as often as you should, it is easy. The only time i use a grinder is when i have let the blades get to dull or dinged. Great information here.
Whatever keep hand filing if that's what you think is best. I know from experience an angle grinder works just fine and does a great job as long as you don't use regular grinding discs. I use 80 grit flap disc and a couple passes is all it takes to restore the edge and it doesn't build up any heat and the angle stays exactly the same.
I don't like using a traditional grinding wheel but a flap disc works great in my opinion. I've never once in my life balanced a blade after sharping it so I should probably start doing that. Thank you
Iam a fan of work smarter not harder, ive used both pro level blade sharpeners and angle grinders. pro level sharpeners, no average joe with 2 or 3 acers will ever buy, all you need is a blade balancer and just a little bit of experience with a angle grinder and you can do just as good. use a file afterwards if you want it to be perfect if ur Mowing golf courses this guy it 100% right or buy a pro level sharpener and read the Manuel set up accordingly.
Thanks for the balancing tip , i've been cutting the grass for a small Park {2/3 acres} for 14 years and was never successful balancing on a flat bar edge .
I use an angle grinder. I apply light pressure against the blade. It's rather easy to place the grinder at the existing blade angle. Pay attention to your sharpening progress as you go, don't overdo it. The blade has always been fine for me, no damage.
@@jimmybobhere ,,, yer not a man unless you use 24gr or better lol. Kidding lol. The Scot in me came out lol... or the Italian, maybe the Irish or German ? Not sure myself, lol.
If I had to use a file to sharpen mower blades I would spend hours to sharpen a blade for my customers for a 2 min job. Using an angle grinder is how most pros do it if they don't have a proper blade sharpener. I can literally sharpen a badly dented beat up blade in a couple of minutes. It will not destroy your blade if you pay attention. And it's not the end of the world if you mess up a mower blade to be honest if you learn in the process it's not like they are horrendously expensive and then in the future the money you will save by doing it yourself will more than pay for that blade you may have messed up.
I’ve never really had a need for for an angle grinder (although I’ve been looking for an excuse to get one😬) and have always used a file. It’s fairly quick and easy to maintain the original angle.
I learned to hand file when I was young growing up on a farm w/machine shop. I will sometimes do a quick hit with flap disk on an angle grinder and its fine, but hand filing is my preferred blade sharpening method; much better control and superior edge. I also don’t think it takes any longer, maybe 30-45 seconds per cutting edge; about 5-8 file passes. By far the longest part of the job is lifting the mower and removing the blades, actual sharpening is quit quick.
Agreed, if you do them often enough a file is easy. Most of us leave them too long to get the edge back with a file though. In my experience an angle grinder disk makes tiny hot spots that then just chip out. Flappy wheel is easier to control the temperature. I also found a neglected blade is harder to get back to the 30 degree pitch that is a key to a great cut.
I agree, a good file and a mag-1000 is all I need. And it's actually quicker than getting out the grinder and setting up the work bench. If the blade is really pitted it's time for a new one.
Let’s also acknowledge that putting a good edge on something by hand, wether file or whetstone, is simply satisfying; almost meditative. How the file rides smoother with every stroke until it just glides effortlessly along the beveled edge. Simple pleasure.
Using a balance cone rather than a nail will give a truer balance as the cone will give the concentric center of the blade which is the pin point axis it spins around while on the mower.
My pap taught me how to use files when I was a kid and I still use them often. But, I also know how to sharpen with a grinder. Is does not ruin your blades if you take your time and pay attention to what you are doing.
25 years in commercial lawn care running mowers for 50 to 60 hours a week and every blade was sharpened with an angle grinder and it doesn`t destroy the blade. It does take plenty of practice to be able to do this properly but that comes down to the person, not the tool.
Agree 100%. I use a mill bastard file with a handle. Duck soup to sharpen a blade. Takes off minimal material and only check balance once in five sharpenings.
I don't see anyone here commenting on what I consider one of the more critical parts of the blade: starting with the part that's visibly worn the most. Your edges on the blade are rounded off. Do you know why they're rounded? Because that's the part that hits most of the grass, and so you're still smacking the grass with a rounded edge. Square it off and make it sharp to the edge. If that involves too much material removal, then get another blade and it comes with that perfect square edge at the very ends. Maintain that edge, that is the first thing that hits grass and it is why it wears the most. It is the most critical part of the blade and the difference is visible.
45 years ago my family had a lawn service in south Florida and this is the way I sharpened all of our blades, one set for every other day. Two Grasshoppers ZTRs, two Bobcats push mowers and two edgers. All by hand with a file and I still do that way today.
Really good video been working with riding lawn mowers for a while definitely didn't know some of the tips especially the finishing nail for balancing the blade way easier thanks man keep up the good work
From a safety standpoint he needs to put a handle on the file tang to protect his hand. I've used angle grinders, bench grinders, and files. Depending on what shape the blade is in determines what tool I use.
You'll see at 2:35 that his file had a built in handle. Hardware term for that style is a "Handy File" but you are very correct. NEVER use a file that has a Tang WITHOUT A HANDLE..! Hardware Stores only sell files with the handle built in to PROTECT KNOW NOTHING HOMEOWNERS FROM THEMSELVES... 🤔
thank you for the suggestion of the file ... if the blade is not to dull or badly damaged, it seems this is a good option ... not so much a fan of using the nail for balancing when an actual balancer can be purchased for a nominal cost ...
I have a grinder but I use a file. I don't due commercial landscape so maybe its different if you do. I like the control I have with a file, with a grinder is will be off but not enough that it wont cut. The main reason for me is the metal shaving, I hate grinder with a passion when it comes to shooting metal shaving everywhere. With a file I can control it better.
You can use an angle grinder with the correct abrasive. This could have be achieved with a Flap Wheel Abrasive or a Sanding Disk. Check your balance the end that dips will need a little more sanding till it no longer favors either side. If you need Heavier Angle Shaping use a bench grinder on both ends. Then balance with Flap Wheel Abrasive or Sanding Disk. 👍 Always use Safety glasses and tools you are comfortable with using.
September 2022 in Virginia Beach. Great video! Yours is the first one I've found that showed the proper way to sharpen the blade with a file! I have an angle grinder, flap wheel, all of that. I considered using that but I don't have the steadiest hand. Thanks for the video, you just got a new subscriber! (and to the guys who prefer grinding the blade, to each his own!) I'm not at that level yet!
My 2011 troy bilt riding mower was vibrating itself apart including 2 broken motor mount bolts. I replaced the blades before a 3rd bolt broke and everything is fine now running smooth like a new mower.
Agree with the other folks who use an angle grinder. A flap wheel is the way to go since they grind the metal without taking too much at a time. I do agree that free-handing it can be an issue (except for those who are much more skilled than I am), I recently purchased the All-American Blade Sharpener (actually a blade vice) that you attach your angle grinder to and set the angle. Holds the blade tight and you get an a precise angle cut. Using a nail or one of those cycincal balancers makes sure the blade is balance.
I was always taught the width of the angle on the sharpened part should be twice the thickness of the blade itself for a reference point to keep your angle in check sharpening, I sharpen way to many blades to do it by hand, use a angle grinder and hold it against my body and keep a consistent movement back and forth to keep the angle while watching the angle being sharpened, also I check the blade before sharpening after cleaning to see which side is heavier for a reference before I start sharpening
@@nextleveldiy average homeowner in my area has a 50" plus deck with 3 blades. Add to that another blade for a push mower and 1-2 for a chainsaw and you're sharpening your life away. Angle grinder is the most useful tool in any average Joe's garage.
I agree about keeping the mower blades sharp! But, I have been using an angle grinder for years. If you go lightly, it works perfectly and makes quick work.
We subscribed because your presentation was clearly organized, concise and based on experience. (And you held our attention, without background intro music.)
I'm not convinced with the nail balancing, I found big difference when I picked up a blade balancer from a mate (£6 from amazon) My nail balanced blades were way off balanced and the machines were a real pleasure to use when I balanced the blades with the balancing tool. Hanging the blade on a nail, the blade will hang any angle you put it at regardless of where the extra weight is. As for sharpening with a file, I can't find a file worth a shit, much as I'd be happy to do it by hand.
I built a stand the I mount my blades to that makes a 30 deg angle cut on mine every time. Not much metal is taken off at all. Built out of a 4x4 and some mounting hardware. I learned it from Clean & Green Lawn care. .
Great tutorial. An angle grinder used properly will not destroy your blade. I like to use flap discs that don’t remove tons of metal it’s more or less a sandpaper disc.
There is a jig called the Yellow Hornet mower blade sharpener that will hold your angle grinder at the proper angle and allow you to sharpen your blades properly. Instead of using a grinding wheel, you use a flap disk 40 to 60 grit. Does an amazing job on sharpening blades.
@@joesinakandid528 No more high tech than your arms. Your arms are jigs just not as steady and precise as a jig made to hold the angle grinder at the proper angle all through the pass.
When you use a file, drag the file against the sharp end, not towards the sharp end. Also, instead of a grinder use a belt sander; you can hold the flat angle much easier than with a grinder
Ill one up you and say that I use a 2x72 belt grinder then a file lol. But I also sharpen multiple sets for 6 mowers at a time. I will add that you should pay extra attention to squaring and sharpening the tip of your blade. 90% of your cutting happens in the first 1/4-1/2 inch.
You should file towards the edge so you don't get a rolled over bur. But the 4 1/2 inch grinder is way faster and you can see the progress of the new edge by holding the blade in the vice as shown. Flap sanders only work good at first but also take longer because they loose their grit too soon.
@Okedoke. I guess what I stated could be understood two ways. What should be said is filed "against" the edge. Whether grinding or filing one should NOT file as shown in the video as metal is rolled off the edge creating a feathered look. That rolled over edge can be easily filed off though. In the video he stated that a file is quick but since most blades have rock nicks on the edge a small 4 1/2" grinder works faster and is easy to maintain an edge and angle if the blade is mounted in a vise with the dull edge up so you can see the progress of sharpening. Holding the grinder is easy as far as maintaining an angle. Just be sure to grind against the edge so metal is not rolled over. For balancing I usually make sure to grind equal amounts of each end of the blade.
@@bottmar1 ok I'm having trouble picturing the way you're describing how it should be done. Have you got a link to a video demonstrating what you're saying? As for balancing, I've only ever had mowers with two or four small blades that are attached to a rotating wheel, so no need for balancing.
@Okidoke. In other words, if the edge of the blade is toward you push your file away from you. I'm not familiar with computers enough to set up a link.
A properly used angle grinder will not destroy your blade.
I totally agree.
What this guy is saying though, is most people don’t know how to use it “properly”.
Kind of like:
Yes it is theoretically possible to that reassure wash concrete driveway using the wand. But the amount of concentration needed in order to not have the wand too close (ever), and have gone through the ENTIRE driveway, is not something most people are capable of. Sure it looks clean at the end. But how many instances of “wand too close” and therefore damage to the concrete pores (invisible to naked eye) has already occurred?
That’s why attaching a surface cleaner to the end of the wand makes the work much easier.
Decades ago, I made the leap from ONLY hand-powered screw drivers, to adding powered screw drivers to my toolbox. What a difference. (Ever tried to put together an IKEA item by 100% manual power?) I stopped being stingy at that point. 😅
@Edoc - Indeed, this is also the biggest mistake people make.
Absolutely! I use a grinder with a flap disc with about 320 grit at the very least, 600 to 800 preferably.
I guarantee that file he used is somewhere around 150 grit which is way to aggressive to properly sharpen metal. He also didn’t take the burr off which basically defeats the purpose of sharpening.
@Charlie Flask yup all it takes is a gentle touch.
@Charlie Flask Should never use the flat side of a cutting disk. It makes the thin disk even thinner and could explode. Ask me how I know. Lol
To all of us who use flap wheels on our grinders and know how to use the tool, sharpen away and use the cone balancer to balance after we are done. Work smarter not harder. 🙂
I use a 36 grit and light pressure, just sharpened and balanced the blades on my wheel horse in about 5 minutes
Yes sir!
This video was painful. Been using flap discs for years and no issues.
When he hung it on the nail I lost my shit 🤣
This video just needs to be taken down. When he busted out the hand file i knew I was in the wrong place. Skipped ahead and see him balancing the blade on a nail. It doesn't show any balance issues. Just get a little pyramid type blade balancer for, what $5?
Great video. I agree 100% and I have used a file for sharpening for over 30 years. Two points to consider. WhenI file the blade I watch for a burr to firm on the back of the edge. This lets me know when the new edge and back of the blade are tangent. That’s when I file as you have demonstrated, with the file straight up, or I use a fine hand stone to remove the burr. The second point is that most blades are mass produced and induction hardened, so the hard surface is about 45-50 Rockwell. Using any kind of grinder or belt, WITHOUT coolant, will heat the blade over 800 degrees at the point if contact, and is hot enough to anneal the edge (draw away the hardness) thereby reducing the ability to hold a sharp edge. 👍great job in demonstrating the proper method. This also works on hand shears, pruning shears etc.. Don’t grind unless you have flood coolant as you are grinding.
4:45
@@jimmarple133 ???
No disrespect. The file works well for people in the city that cut postage stamp size lots with manicured type grass. In the real world of rural living where it takes hours to cut grass in all kinds of scenarios the angle grinder is the only and best way to do that. 51 years of doing it says so.
My thoughts exactly! I maintain a lot of fields/woods and running over things is just a way of life. My mower blades would make most maintainers cringe. I either use the grinder to reprofile them or buy new ones twice a year (which I don’t do).
@@mavrikmavrik3032 we’re on the same page my friend
You tell 'em buddy!😉
I agree. There's no difference really. The grinder used correctly will work wonders 👍
@@scottketcham couldn’t agree more my friend
So many of the comments here are from critics who have "used angle grinders for years". Good for them. Some of us have never sharpened a blade before, and don't own an angle grinder. This video works for me. Thanks.
Under $13 dollars at Harbor Freight for an entry level grinder... How much is your time worth? A good Big 12" Bastard Nicholson file cost more than that on Amazon.
@@abbynormal7036Some people don't have the skillset to use an angle grinder. It can be intimidating and I think that the people who fall into that category, for whatever the reason, that they would be comfortable parting with that cash for a job done properly and done well. Plus, the added benefit that it won't be costing them their phalanges or worse...
Nevermind the many other factors in why someone would prefer manual filing over an angle grinder if given the chance (ignorance, fear, limited funds and availability via family, stubbornness, lack of confidence, nobody to teach them, don't give a fook, gender adherence, historical ineptitude with sharpening tools ,etc etc)
You go on and save your dollars, it's a worthy cause. Perhaps invest in some empathy while you're out, big spender.
And obviously, anyone here is likely watching this vid because they want to gauge the difficulty of this particular chore and if it's a viable option for them... Doesn't mean they are or aren't or that they're this or that by making one choice or another. Simply put: Ignorance is the true cost in life; Whereas, knowledge can last a lifetime and everyone is richer for it.
If you've never sharpened a blade, you'll likely do worse with a hand file and round off the blade. Takes some practice to hold the file at angle to match the existing cut on the steel thru the stroke. A good sharpening tool for a mower blade is fairly inexpensive now, and turns a 2 hour job into a 2 minute job.
I always love these videos because they use brand new or barely used blades to show how to sharpen them and always speak out against using a grinder. I would love to see anyone sharpen the blades I pulled off of my riding tractor this week with a file. It would take a week. I did appreciate the nail trick for balance rather than buying that specialty tool. Thanks for the video but I still had to use a grinder on mine just to get the chunks out of it and then I did do a final run with the file once I had it really close.
If I had a dull blade that looked good, I wouldn’t be wasting my time sharpening it😂 Many thanks for your comments.
I’ve used an angle grinder for years on my mower blades.
We cut 75 lawns a week for 25 years now and never had a problem
This person knows nothing
Yes, you can do it with an angle grinder, but it's more aggressive and will remove more material than necessary, like the video explains. Flat file is less aggressive.
@@bobsbeard3977 Sure, good luck with file on rock chips!..
@@bobsbeard3977 Commercial vs consumer - time is money, cheaper to sharpen fast and replace blades more often than to spend time filing.
@@vortexan9804 I’ve done it before with a course mill bastard file
I'm now 47 years old in 2024 and this exactly how my father used to do it and he was wonderful enough to teach me how. It's been 16 years since he passed but I still remember every lesson
Wow im 29 years old rn in 2024 and it’s how my dad taught me to sharpen blades also. He taught me everything else tht I know today. He passed from cancer 10/01/2023..he prepared me very well to be able to continue his buisness today. I love and miss the hell out of him
You can use your file.
I'll use my angle grinder with a flap wheel disc.
Works great!
YEP
I always take the file and make a very narrow flat edge, 1/16" or less, along the cutting edge.
It's gives you two cutting corners and is more resistant to denting than a sharp edge.
Over my over 50yrs of mowing (I'm 78) I've found that this works very well.
so you basically squaring off the edge but with sharp corners? like this?
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/ |
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My Mom's husband just gave me this advice a few days ago. Gonna try it out and see how it goes. There are waaaaay too many sticks and twigs on the perimeter of my property to pick them all up, so I inevitably damage the edges of the blade every time I mow. If I can slow that down, and still cut well, I'm all in.
He told me to think of it more like a scissor blade than a knife edge.
Grinders are perfect. You just have to have some skill.
Just replace them. Cheap & quick ;)
An angle grinder with an 80 grit flap wheel works well for me. I have been hand sharpening, file or bench grinder, for about 50 years about 2 years ago I started with the flap wheel, fast enough that you don't build the heat to pull the temper, slow enough to not make an error too quickly.
yea. if ya don't heat it up too much it's fine. i cool it with water when needed.
I switched over to flapper wheel too, works great.
I also use a flapper wheel
I use one also. I want to see him use a file to sharpen a mulching blade with all its ups and downs.
Agreed.....with a steady hand, a well worn flap wheel and a good eye, it's an easy task. Most of the guys using a hand grinder are trying to use a wheel that's too aggressive or they don't duplicate the original angle.
I’ve seen about 6 videos of sharpening blades and you are the first one that talks about balancing! I’m like that’s a little important…. Thanks for sharing
Yes I agree with the File method. After cutting a dozen or more lawns a week times 10 years- one gets Good at treating the mower properly. The lawnmower is for cutting lawns- not large weeds, vines and other. It's not a stump grinder! Just grass
This larger die grinder ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxmwiwyX3ADeryrwvcsiwLeKxme6QNQmGL runs very smoothly in use. There's virtually no vibration. Paddle switch with the safety trigger is a bit cumbersome to use, but is much safer. Grinder cannot turn on if set down on the bench.Note that this die grinder, like most others, runs at 25,000 rpm. Always use a face shield and hearing protection. If your grinding stone has any sign of chips or cracks, throw it away. At 25,000 rpm, the stone sees very high G-loads and could come apart explosively if the stone is damaged. Always run the grinder for a short time before using it to check the stone.This tool is heavier than some but very well made.Recommended.
Takes experience and skill. No guessing game once you become one with the tool! Been in the business for 20+ years and angle grinder is by far the best way to sharpen blades
thats what ive used for 22 years at my shop. few quick, light passes if do it frequent enough.
Agreed , I worked for a commercial grounds care company, I sharpened the blades for 20 machines every night thats 60 blades every night.
@@freeholdequine2733 , that's some serious practice time :)
@@wesoblander3648 yes it is
Thanks for the video, I was sharpening blades for a Toro 455d, 126" cut. Heavy metal, was using angle grinder and agree that its not the way to go. So i took them off and used a bench grinder stone that had wire brush as well. These blades had notches, took work but it worked.
Biggest deal of all was balancing them, so glad i found your vid because for some reason vibration full throtle made me think a bearing was going or spindle, but no, just bad blade maintenance. Now i run it full throttle no vibration, so thanka for that. Having off balence blades after some time will wear ktger parts and everything on big heavy duty mowérs are expensive.
I prefer waiting until after the first mowing in the spring to sharpen it that way I can find all the sticks, rocks, bear cans, and whatever else blew in over winter with the dull blade and then I can have a nice sharp one all summer.
As for using a grinder to sharpen it, the key is to watch what your last pass did and make tiny adjustments not to try to see the actual point of contact.
He was right about not leaving burs though, if you leave them on they may try to roll under making the blade dull a lot faster than usual
Called common sense.
Bear cans are the worst
@@AllDayTruth Yea, nowt worse than cracking open a can of nice cold beer and a friggin *bear* pops out
Bear cans sounds scary
I agree that a file works well on a blade that is barely dull, but in reality, most people let blades get very dull. A flap disc works very very well in this situation. A file would take awhile and wear you out. For those who don't know how to balance a blade, simply grind/sand/file a little more off the heavy side until it's balanced.
Just replace them. Cheap & quick ;)
Thank you for the info on balancing the blade if needed!
Thanks for your video!
Lot of people on here that post videos think they have all the answers. Been using an angle grinder for years and never had any issues. I will continue to do so.
Been using an angle grinder my whole life and does a great job.
I too watched my Dad sharpen his table saw blades and hand saws with a hand file for so many years, he was a carpenter who would rather use mostly hand tools except for his circular saw blades for ripping plywood. Watched him sharpen my lawnmower blade and my chisels on a wet stone and have been doing it this way ever since. Thanks Dad.
The only way to do it. 👌I've been using a fine mill bastard file and balance cone for 32 yrs.
I’ve been using my vertical belt grinder with a 36 grit for years. Makes quick work of the six blades I have to sharpen every year. Does a great job.
Just replace them. Cheap & quick ;)
@@timothylanders3189 Why blow $25-35 dollars for a set of blades when you can get multiple uses out of them for a minute of sharpening with a grinder? Not to mention the time it takes to drive to the store to pick them up. Replace them when needed, anything else is a waste of money.
Angle grinders with a 120 grit flap disc works perfect. Removes very little and the perfect angle is easy to get. It's very quick and does a great job. Been doing it for years !
I'm all with you from the good old-school mechanical perspective. I however mow my healthy green though bumpy field each week and accept the consumption of one set of blades per season. With that I am perfectly ok with using my angle grinder for a periodic sharpening. My 9 year old Simplicity tractor never suffered any motor or bearing issues
The title of the video is not correct, it should read "you can destroy your mower blades if you don't know how to use tools". It doesn't matter what tool you use so long as you create the correct profile without overheating the edge and check the balance before you call it done. It's not the tool, it's the person hanging onto it that matters.
Growing up I would watch as my father deftly used a mill file as he started from the back edge of the bare metal to the front cutting edge. Neatly taking about a millimeter of steel with each pass, he quickly brought down the surface to a razor sharp finish on the last pass…never going over the cutting edge more than one time. It was almost as if you could calculate how many strokes it would take him to reach the final sharp finish. I am 60 now and endeavor to match that technique each time I sharpen my blade…as I think of my Dad.
My greatest fear is, that with modern tech…we loose that desire to achieve with our hands…now a days skills are being lost at a rate greater then new skills are being developed…
There's no better feeling than the Inspiration and Great Memories you have of your Father. Stay safe.
This may be the most epic and best comment I've ever seen on a UA-cam video. I'm grateful for all the knowledge I gained from my Gramps'. Everyone today, including myself at times, is looking for the quickest way. We assume if it uses modern tech it's quicker. I have fallen into that trap myself as it relates to sharpening lawn mower blades. I have ran my own lawn mowing service for 5 years now and have used angle grinders, belt Sanders, dremels etc. Less than optimal results. Honestly all of those are more work than this method. More importantly, sharpening this way saves money when sharpening blades daily for a business.
@@RikJSmith Amen to that! I think of my Dad often and all that he taught me in his workshop.
The great thing about the file is it doesn't heat the metal like a grinder can. IMO, the file can remove MORE material in a more controlled manner, so burrs, nicks, and rolls can be dressed off with much more ease than with a grinder. If I were to grind, it would be on a table grinder that won't "get away". I recently dressed a bushog blade that was rounding on its end and it was night and day just truing that end up.
Installed these on a riding mower ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxetgfkJxfdT_B2vGYP-uNTLaBbim9OKTD . They were sharp out of the box, although I've never liked blade edges that were coated...not quite as sharp as I personally want. Using my belt sander, I removed the coating from the cutting edges and refined the edge enough to shave with them. So far, after three runs, these blades are holding up as expected. Even after hitting a few fallen 1/2 inch or so branches, the edges are still sharp as heck. No edge dings, no warping, etc. As far as installing them, the cutouts were of the proper size and shape to fit my aging Craftsman mower. Very satisfied.
That "coating" is just paint. Put the blade on the mower and go to work. The instant that blade hits a blade of grass, the paint will be gone and your grass will be exposed to a razor sharp factory edge.
Not supposed to be that sharp of a profile. That profile will roll the edge with the striking of even very small rocks. This is probably the most common mistake non pros make.
I have sharpened my blades for years with a carbide disk on a 7" angle grinder. Works great and is fast. Make sure the blades are balanced and edge is reasonably straight and you're good to go.
I am going to ask you a bunch of questions and I want you to answer them immediately
I've been using 4 and 5 inch cut off wheels (on their side for the most part) for like 20 years and have been doing a great job. Cleverness I think.
@@loafandjug321 WHO IS YOUR DADDY, AND WHAT DOES HE DO?
@@AcesHighMedia
Get mad got dam it! GET MAD!
I love watching smart people give advice.. thank you!
Been sharpening mower blades with a 4/1/2” angle grinder successfully for almost 20 years.
I use the 80 grit flap wheels. Works well for our business.
I've been using 4 and 5 inch cut off wheels (on their side for the most part) for like 20 years and have been doing a great job. Cleverness I think.
Nice touch up on a blade in great shape to begin with.
I've been sharpening my blades for over 40 years and never had to guess the angle. I have 10 year old blades still in service. Always grind and balance.
I have used my angle grinder to sharpen my mower blades and my friends blades for YEARS and balance them with a cone balancer and have never had an issue. It's a freakin lawnmower!!
Angle grinder with about an 80 grit flap disc. Run a sharpie marker over the edge so you can see what angle you're sharpening at. Hold that angle and keep the angle grinder moving so you don't overheat the edge. Balance when done by removing a little bit more metal from the heavy side of blade - some people don't balance and feel like it doesn't affect their spindle life. They may be right, but the smoother my machines run the less fatigue I feel at the end of the day.
I still have plenty of sharpenable edge left by the time that the kicked up lift portion at be back of the blade has worn paper thin and is about to start shedding pieces.
Can you do a whole lot of damage with any high-speed tool? Yes, but, mower blades are cheap, used practice blades to develop your technique are even cheaper, and time is expensive.
I'm also going to be keeping my cordless bit driver, my belt sander, my router, my chainsaw and a number of other tools that can do damage if you use them wrong way.
Exactly
Thanks man. Took the deck off to pressure wash the bottom
And spray paint it to prevent rushing and thought I’d sharpen the blades while I was at it 👍🏼
File works great
I have owned my present mower for 10 years and sharpen and balance the blades ( 3 of them ) twice each year. My original blades are still serviceable because I do not remove more material than is needed . I expect to continue to use these blades for years to come. I use a mill file.
I’ve used an angle grinder to sharpen blades for years and it works very well. If you’re new to this process and still have the guard on your grinder it helps a lot to keep the angle the same across the length of the blade by holding the guard against the blade to steady yourself. And I haven’t technically balanced a mower blade in thirty five years and it’s never wrecked any bearings, belts or engines and my lawn looks as good as the next guy’s so….
Balancing is good advice. Though in this case somewhat minor but the O/P is being thorough. An unbalanced car tyre is a nuisance and if ignored can cause expensive issues later. An aircraft propellor if unbalanced will cause catastrophic damage. If the blades are unbalanced the centre drive shaft/boss will try to regain the centre of mass. If the engine has to break out of it's mounts to achieve this, If no action is taken it will. When designed, the manufacture will tolerate vibration and design in measures to keep it within limits. Outside issues, poor care, blade imbalance will, over time, cause premature failure.
I always use angle grinders and never balance the blades. I'd rather spend more time on more important maintenance issues (belts, pulleys, linkages, etc). Eventually the spindle bearings will wear out whether the blades are balanced or not. R&R the spindles and you're good to go. I have a 30 year old Scag walk-behind. My biggest problem was that the cutting deck was rusting out, especially around the areas that hold the spindles to the frame. Welding reinforcement plates to the deck solved the issue.
I use a weed-eater to cut some areas of a lawn, the string trimmer cuts the grass just fine. St. Augustine grass grows back healthy every time. I'm not convinced that a sharp blade affects health of grass when a plastic string trimmer does the same job. Sharp blades make only an aesthetic look to the lawn, the things that kill the grass aren't the dull blades, it's pathogens like fungus and sod web worms, heat stress and irrigation issues.
I always use an angle grinder with a flapper sanding wheel. It removes less metal, heats the blade less, and it just better all the way around than a file. Balancing a blade is a good idea. You don't need to be OCD about it. You can just pull the vice handle level and lay the center hole in the blade over the round vice handle and tell if the blade is off balance enough to matter. Blades usually get out of balance once someone sees a nick and tries to reprofile the blade on one side, and they do not remove a similar amount of metal from the other. I do this quick check every couple of times I sharpen, which I sharpen my two sets of blades 4-5 times a year as a lawn care nerd with very thick and dense Zoysia grass.
@@Troy-Echo In my world, one pass around my six acre field will ding up any picture perfect blade. I've sharpened the three blades with both a bench grinder and with a 5" die grinder. They both work well and I do balance them since I do have a stepped aluminum cone. It's a few seconds to confirm (or deny) the sharpness/evenness of the blade. It's been working well for the last many years and hasn't caused any problems yet. I keep a couple oiled sets (keeps them from rusting) on the shelf and then have a "Sharpening Party" occasionally.
@@MrGaryGG48A sharpening party. You sound like me. I actually enjoy sharpening blades. When COVID hit, I was in the middle of starting a mobile sharpening business for beauty shears and upholstery shears, and about any type of knife or blade (including mower blades) that people wanted sharpened. Your blade use is a bit different than mine. My front lawn is level enough I can easily mow it at 1" without scalping the grass, let alone hitting soil. My back lawn isn't as well cared for, but I'll be taking some steps this coming spring to level out some of the high spots and filling in some low spots. Far from golf course ready, but now that my dog is old enough she's not digging, I can fill in and level somewhat and allow warm season weeds to fill in until I can propagate Zoysia to those areas. The only experience I have with mowing fields that large was when I was a teenager and we had cattle. We mowed the fields with the sickle style mower to bale hay, but that's quite different.
One of the best to the clear point videos I’ve ever seen, great job! Thanx
I used to sharpen my mower blades with a file BITD but now I do it with an angle grinder and a mild flap disc. Just don’t use an overly aggressive disc and watch the angle, perfect balancing is much easier to get with a disc too IMO. Right tool for the job!
Thanks so much for this very helpful video -
Question: what do you do about an unbalanced blade? That’s the one part I didn’t understand.
The file absolutely adds more precision, and allows you to carefully remove just enough to sharpen and adjust to balance, this can also be done with a diamond lap (the little fiskar files in the garden center). With that said, we are sharpening a coarse bevel (no need for precision) and any experienced individual with an angle or even a bench grinder can achieve the same end in far less time. Most beginners that just purchased a cheapo HF AG can easily butcher their blades, if they even manage to remove them.
Well done mate. Great video. Not too long and to the point. Educational and decisive. Off to sharpen my blades now. Thank you
20 years of driving hay mowers and sharpening 20 blades every couple days with a grinder without even removing them tells me that a grinder is the right way for some of us. Also, the tip of the blade does the majority of the cutting so that's the most important part to get right.
20 years of doing the wrong thing is not a good recommendation. If you had sharpened you mower blades properly, you wouldn't have had to sharpen them every 2 days.
@@FRLN500 yeah? How much hay mowing you done as a contractor around farmers paddocks full of debris. Only takes one hidden rock to completely take the edge off 4 blades at once and two days mowing is hundreds of acres of grass cut. If you're going to try and tell me you can cut hundreds of acres without dulling a blade because that's how good you are at sharpening then you'll just sound even more ignorant than you already do. Leaving a clean smooth cut traveling at 15-20mph requires sharp blades.
Yes I use angle grinder on hay mower blades. I like to clamp some vise grips on blade so I can push on the grinder.
@@ridgerunner106 spend enough time on an angle grinder you learn pretty good control, I'm sure the scoffers probably say I can't dress my chainsaw bars with a grinder either but I've successfully been doing that for years too.
However my first paid job was at the age of 14 and I had to take the welds off and finish all the joins on 1300 prison doors. Good way to learn grinder control.
yep. she just needs the tip.
I’ve been sharpening mower blades on my personal mowers, and when I worked landscaping commercially, for 25 years with an angle grinder. Never had a problem.
Balancing the blade by using the centre hole and a glass marble or steel ball bearing and placed on a hard surface gives
very accurate feedback.
You got too much time on your hands son
How is that any better than a simple nail?
Great tip about balancing the blade after you are done with the sharpening
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
When using an angle grinder you do not use a grinding wheel you use a polishing/finishing/flapper wheel some may call it a sandpaper wheel,,, that doesn't remove much cause you are not putting hardly any pressure on the material you are smoothing out,,,what you say is not wrong for most but a few folks are fabricators and welders,,,, and the balance is spot on 💯
Some blades I had to sharpen had large dents and gouges where a file would take forever so I used a grinder. Long as you balance the blade it makes a difference also.
I agree, using a grinder may be necessary on occasion when there is severe damage but if its just monthly maintenance then a file is good enough to give it an edge. Balancing is the most important step.
Me too. Just don't burn it.
@@nextleveldiy mule fritters, maybe for a crank mounted blade. Do you stone them as well lol
Whatever method works, technique is the most determining factor. I was a travelling lawn and garden tech for Sears in the late 90s and used a die grinder to sharpen blades when that was suitable for the job. I had a 2x4 with slots cut into it as a jig to hold the blade at the correct angle for the cutting edge to be level and a few passes with the grinder did the trick, holding the grinder level with the work surface, usually a convenient hard surface. Most calls, however, the blades were replaced as part of a maintenance agreement with the customer.
I have used angle grinder for years. The secret is to wear eye protection and watch where you are cutting. I have to sharpen fairly often as we have moles round here and the little sods bring up stones that are had to spot in the grass.
Man, I hate them moles.
Angle grinders work great on mower blades. The assumption here is that the person using an angle grinder doesn't know what they are doing in which case anything you use will destroy your blades. There are excellent tutorials out there if in doubt. I get excellent results with my angle grinder.
I owned a landscape and maintenance company for 20 years with 185 accounts scattered in 5 counties. We changed blades every morning and never had issues using an angle grinder. I'd hate to know I had to sharpen 36 blades at a time with a file.
That's for dam sure. This guy most likely uses a scissors instead of a weed eater lol
😂😂 scissors...
@@markmundwiller5842 these youtubers... they put out a few good videos based on something they know, then they can't stop so they put out videos based on other videos others have already done. The same bad information gets recycled and recycled just cause these guys have to keep making a new video every day.
Aaaaaaand you wind up with stuff like this!
He probably gets scissored 😝what a Tool🥸🤡
Maybe some file instructions are in order🤥🙄
I also use a file i think it is a better edge and if you sharpen your blades as often as you should, it is easy. The only time i use a grinder is when i have let the blades get to dull or dinged. Great information here.
Whatever keep hand filing if that's what you think is best. I know from experience an angle grinder works just fine and does a great job as long as you don't use regular grinding discs. I use 80 grit flap disc and a couple passes is all it takes to restore the edge and it doesn't build up any heat and the angle stays exactly the same.
A light hand with the side grinder or flap wheel is all it takes. Simple cone balance and Good to Go!
I don't like using a traditional grinding wheel but a flap disc works great in my opinion. I've never once in my life balanced a blade after sharping it so I should probably start doing that. Thank you
Iam a fan of work smarter not harder, ive used both pro level blade sharpeners and angle grinders. pro level sharpeners, no average joe with 2 or 3 acers will ever buy, all you need is a blade balancer and just a little bit of experience with a angle grinder and you can do just as good. use a file afterwards if you want it to be perfect
if ur Mowing golf courses this guy it 100% right or buy a pro level sharpener and read the Manuel set up accordingly.
Thanks for the balancing tip , i've been cutting the grass for a small Park {2/3 acres} for 14 years and was never successful balancing on a flat bar edge .
I use an angle grinder. I apply light pressure against the blade. It's rather easy to place the grinder at the existing blade angle. Pay attention to your sharpening progress as you go, don't overdo it. The blade has always been fine for me, no damage.
Same here. Guess that's the difference between a Mechanic and a Technician.
What wheel do you use?
@@kornykorhorn I use 3M Green Corps Cubitron. 36 grain.
@@jimmybobhere ,,, yer not a man unless you use 24gr or better lol. Kidding lol. The Scot in me came out lol... or the Italian, maybe the Irish or German ? Not sure myself, lol.
Private golf club mechanic thirty years here, a angle grinder has always worked great for me always balance blades.
If I had to use a file to sharpen mower blades I would spend hours to sharpen a blade for my customers for a 2 min job. Using an angle grinder is how most pros do it if they don't have a proper blade sharpener. I can literally sharpen a badly dented beat up blade in a couple of minutes. It will not destroy your blade if you pay attention. And it's not the end of the world if you mess up a mower blade to be honest if you learn in the process it's not like they are horrendously expensive and then in the future the money you will save by doing it yourself will more than pay for that blade you may have messed up.
I’ve never really had a need for for an angle grinder (although I’ve been looking for an excuse to get one😬) and have always used a file. It’s fairly quick and easy to maintain the original angle.
I learned to hand file when I was young growing up on a farm w/machine shop. I will sometimes do a quick hit with flap disk on an angle grinder and its fine, but hand filing is my preferred blade sharpening method; much better control and superior edge. I also don’t think it takes any longer, maybe 30-45 seconds per cutting edge; about 5-8 file passes. By far the longest part of the job is lifting the mower and removing the blades, actual sharpening is quit quick.
Agreed, if you do them often enough a file is easy. Most of us leave them too long to get the edge back with a file though. In my experience an angle grinder disk makes tiny hot spots that then just chip out. Flappy wheel is easier to control the temperature.
I also found a neglected blade is harder to get back to the 30 degree pitch that is a key to a great cut.
@@hahaha9076 I’d suggest you get a sharp file, a few strokes os all it takes to set a new edge.
I agree, a good file and a mag-1000 is all I need. And it's actually quicker than getting out the grinder and setting up the work bench. If the blade is really pitted it's time for a new one.
Let’s also acknowledge that putting a good edge on something by hand, wether file or whetstone, is simply satisfying; almost meditative. How the file rides smoother with every stroke until it just glides effortlessly along the beveled edge. Simple pleasure.
Using a balance cone rather than a nail will give a truer balance as the cone will give the concentric center of the blade which is the pin point axis it spins around while on the mower.
Not to mention he didnt tell how to correct an unbalanced blade. He just hung it on a nail oh wow.
Never balanced shit 6 walker mowers running 30hrs a week, with dumb ass kinds running them. Never had seal problems or a goofy cut
My pap taught me how to use files when I was a kid and I still use them often. But, I also know how to sharpen with a grinder. Is does not ruin your blades if you take your time and pay attention to what you are doing.
25 years in commercial lawn care running mowers for 50 to 60 hours a week and every blade was sharpened with an angle grinder and it doesn`t destroy the blade. It does take plenty of practice to be able to do this properly but that comes down to the person, not the tool.
Right dont lay into it and try to cut everything out in one pass. But the average residential mower gets blown up way before the blade needs sharpened
Thank you. I like the file idea. Especially if you don’t have any other tools.
My grand daddy used to say you don't need a hammer 🔨 to kill an ant 🐜
if checking the balance is so easy then using an angle grinder to sharpen the blade isn't going to be an issue is it ?
Just don't make em blue
Agree 100%. I use a mill bastard file with a handle. Duck soup to sharpen a blade. Takes off minimal material and only check balance once in five sharpenings.
I don't see anyone here commenting on what I consider one of the more critical parts of the blade: starting with the part that's visibly worn the most. Your edges on the blade are rounded off. Do you know why they're rounded? Because that's the part that hits most of the grass, and so you're still smacking the grass with a rounded edge. Square it off and make it sharp to the edge. If that involves too much material removal, then get another blade and it comes with that perfect square edge at the very ends. Maintain that edge, that is the first thing that hits grass and it is why it wears the most. It is the most critical part of the blade and the difference is visible.
This guy is.right on! My dad went to Dunwoody trade school in Minnesota THE BEST to be a blacksmith welder he said the same thing.
45 years ago my family had a lawn service in south Florida and this is the way I sharpened all of our blades, one set for every other day. Two Grasshoppers ZTRs, two Bobcats push mowers and two edgers. All by hand with a file and I still do that way today.
Really good video been working with riding lawn mowers for a while definitely didn't know some of the tips especially the finishing nail for balancing the blade way easier thanks man keep up the good work
From a safety standpoint he needs to put a handle on the file tang to protect his hand.
I've used angle grinders, bench grinders, and files. Depending on what shape the blade is in determines what tool I use.
My blacksmith grandfather put a file tang into his wrist. Never let anyone use a file without a handle afterwards.
You'll see at 2:35 that his file had a built in handle. Hardware term for that style is a "Handy File" but you are very correct. NEVER use a file that has a Tang WITHOUT A HANDLE..! Hardware Stores only sell files with the handle built in to PROTECT KNOW NOTHING HOMEOWNERS FROM THEMSELVES... 🤔
@@Duschbag I stand corrected. I missed it.
@@jamesstrohl2016 Not a problem... Me... I haven't made a mistake yet this year. 😆
@@Duschbag lol
thank you for the suggestion of the file ... if the blade is not to dull or badly damaged, it seems this is a good option ... not so much a fan of using the nail for balancing when an actual balancer can be purchased for a nominal cost ...
I have a grinder but I use a file. I don't due commercial landscape so maybe its different if you do. I like the control I have with a file, with a grinder is will be off but not enough that it wont cut. The main reason for me is the metal shaving, I hate grinder with a passion when it comes to shooting metal shaving everywhere. With a file I can control it better.
My thoughts exactly.
Perfect, a nice basic to the point video. I like the tip at the end for balancing. Thumbs up!
You can use an angle grinder with the correct abrasive. This could have be achieved with a Flap Wheel Abrasive or a Sanding Disk. Check your balance the end that dips will need a little more sanding till it no longer favors either side. If you need Heavier Angle Shaping use a bench grinder on both ends. Then balance with Flap Wheel Abrasive or Sanding Disk. 👍 Always use Safety glasses and tools you are comfortable with using.
This is my method too.
Just did mine this way. Simple, fast, and easy. Working your arm muscles for a couple mins isn’t that big of a headache and probably a good idea.
I just subscribed and watched a few of your videos. I like how you roll. Good luck with your channel. I’ll be watching. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and subscribing! I have a lot of new videos in the works.
September 2022 in Virginia Beach. Great video! Yours is the first one I've found that showed the proper way to sharpen the blade with a file! I have an angle grinder, flap wheel, all of that. I considered using that but I don't have the steadiest hand. Thanks for the video, you just got a new subscriber! (and to the guys who prefer grinding the blade, to each his own!) I'm not at that level yet!
Files are effective, efficient and will produce great results with minimal damage to the blade ….. or oneself!
My 2011 troy bilt riding mower was vibrating itself apart including 2 broken motor mount bolts. I replaced the blades before a 3rd bolt broke and everything is fine now running smooth like a new mower.
Sharpening a commercial lawn mower blade with a file is like cutting an acre of grass with a string trimmer
Agree with the other folks who use an angle grinder. A flap wheel is the way to go since they grind the metal without taking too much at a time. I do agree that free-handing it can be an issue (except for those who are much more skilled than I am), I recently purchased the All-American Blade Sharpener (actually a blade vice) that you attach your angle grinder to and set the angle. Holds the blade tight and you get an a precise angle cut. Using a nail or one of those cycincal balancers makes sure the blade is balance.
I was always taught the width of the angle on the sharpened part should be twice the thickness of the blade itself for a reference point to keep your angle in check sharpening, I sharpen way to many blades to do it by hand, use a angle grinder and hold it against my body and keep a consistent movement back and forth to keep the angle while watching the angle being sharpened, also I check the blade before sharpening after cleaning to see which side is heavier for a reference before I start sharpening
Thanks for the advice. My videos are more geared towards the average home owner with a single mower, not someone who does it for a living.
@@nextleveldiy average homeowner in my area has a 50" plus deck with 3 blades. Add to that another blade for a push mower and 1-2 for a chainsaw and you're sharpening your life away. Angle grinder is the most useful tool in any average Joe's garage.
@@nextleveldiy SHOULD be the same.
I always say 30º, or 2 o'clock, and by golly, your formula agrees with me AND the Pythagorean theorem.
@@donf3739 Thanks for confirming original tip, saved me mining the recesses of my (failing) memory.
I agree about keeping the mower blades sharp! But, I have been using an angle grinder for years. If you go lightly, it works perfectly and makes quick work.
We subscribed because your presentation was clearly organized, concise and based on experience. (And you held our attention, without background intro music.)
That balancing trick just blowed my mind! I was expecting some complex tool to do the job. You just got another subscriber with that!
I'm not convinced with the nail balancing, I found big difference when I picked up a blade balancer from a mate (£6 from amazon) My nail balanced blades were way off balanced and the machines were a real pleasure to use when I balanced the blades with the balancing tool. Hanging the blade on a nail, the blade will hang any angle you put it at regardless of where the extra weight is. As for sharpening with a file, I can't find a file worth a shit, much as I'd be happy to do it by hand.
The "trick" is total bullshit. Look here why - at 4:55: ua-cam.com/video/9nHWhAo7hmI/v-deo.html
I built a stand the I mount my blades to that makes a 30 deg angle cut on mine every time. Not much metal is taken off at all. Built out of a 4x4 and some mounting hardware. I learned it from Clean & Green Lawn care. .
Great tutorial. An angle grinder used properly will not destroy your blade. I like to use flap discs that don’t remove tons of metal it’s more or less a sandpaper disc.
There is a jig called the Yellow Hornet mower blade sharpener that will hold your angle grinder at the proper angle and allow you to sharpen your blades properly. Instead of using a grinding wheel, you use a flap disk 40 to 60 grit. Does an amazing job on sharpening blades.
Maybe a bit too high-tech for a simple job - eh?
@@joesinakandid528
There's nothing high tech about it, it's a simple jig to hold the grinder at the proper angle.
@@joesinakandid528
No more high tech than your arms.
Your arms are jigs just not as steady and precise as a jig made to hold the angle grinder at the proper angle all through the pass.
Great video. Spoke very clear. Do you only file away from the blade and not towards?
When you use a file, drag the file against the sharp end, not towards the sharp end. Also, instead of a grinder use a belt sander; you can hold the flat angle much easier than with a grinder
Facts
Thanks for letting me know, I have been doing it wrong for decades and never noticed.
Ill one up you and say that I use a 2x72 belt grinder then a file lol. But I also sharpen multiple sets for 6 mowers at a time. I will add that you should pay extra attention to squaring and sharpening the tip of your blade. 90% of your cutting happens in the first 1/4-1/2 inch.
I always use a bench grinder to sharpen blades. With the correct grit stone you can get great results.
You should file towards the edge so you don't get a rolled over bur. But the 4 1/2 inch grinder is way faster and you can see the progress of the new edge by holding the blade in the vice as shown. Flap sanders only work good at first but also take longer because they loose their grit too soon.
“File towards the edge”. Wasn’t he filing towards the edge?
@Okedoke. I guess what I stated could be understood two ways. What should be said is filed "against" the edge. Whether grinding or filing one should NOT file as shown in the video as metal is rolled off the edge creating a feathered look. That rolled over edge can be easily filed off though. In the video he stated that a file is quick but since most blades have rock nicks on the edge a small 4 1/2" grinder works faster and is easy to maintain an edge and angle if the blade is mounted in a vise with the dull edge up so you can see the progress of sharpening. Holding the grinder is easy as far as maintaining an angle. Just be sure to grind against the edge so metal is not rolled over. For balancing I usually make sure to grind equal amounts of each end of the blade.
@@bottmar1 ok I'm having trouble picturing the way you're describing how it should be done. Have you got a link to a video demonstrating what you're saying? As for balancing, I've only ever had mowers with two or four small blades that are attached to a rotating wheel, so no need for balancing.
@Okidoke. In other words, if the edge of the blade is toward you push your file away from you. I'm not familiar with computers enough to set up a link.
@@bottmar1 okay I get you now. Cheers