I think that middle U shaped roll protection is a overkill decision you'll regret later, it obstructs your field of view and makes it harder to get in and out of the cockpit.
Very impressive work, sir! I must add that I love the use of coroplast for the panels and body work! As my user name might indicate, I am a big fan of the use of Coro! FYI: a rc airplane built from coroplast is commonly referred to as a S.P.A.D.
couple of thoughts to consider motor compartment ventilation: simple "scoops" one facing forward on the fan side, one facing backward on the other side nearer the back. fan locking collar: what we used to do was "spot" the hole for the set screw. what i mean by that is use a smaller then the hole drill to make a divot in the shaft. then even if the set screw comes a little loose, it still holds.
If you’re attached to the tank’s position (looks cool and easy to fill, imho), you can use heat-shielding mat (sold under ‘DEI engineering’ brand and found at better auto parts stores) glued to the underside of it. It not only increases safety margin but also your mpg! Cool build and likin’ your work!
Air vents on the side angled to catch air so motor is air cooled and maybe add a small 12.volt fan in front of motor for extra air to cool and blow fuel vapers out
great video again Paul! I'm so excited for you, this is so beyond my skill level, but I have often thought of using a 400 dollar Alibaba motorcycle for something similar, like how cheap could you build a functional vehicle like this?
I live in Moscow! I've been watching your work for a very long time. All my friends have a great admiration for your works. Boats, bicycle cars, motor cars, motor homes. Sculptures on the beach made of sand. Is there an end to your ideas? I hope not!
Дорогой товарищ)))) я живу в Москве! Очень давно наблюдаюдаю Ваше творчество. Всё мои друзья в восторге от твоих произведений. Лодки, велоавтомобиль, мотомашины, дом на колёсах. Скульптуры на пляже из песка. Есть ли конец Вашим идеям? Надеюсь, что нет!
Drill a small indent into the shaft for the set screw to "lock" into. This method has been in use for centuries and works in much the same way as a Woodruff key. It's "Woodruff key lite", so to speak.
I'll try that. The flat spot was just nicked out with my angle grinder. Not really flat, but I see the advantage of a small indent for the head of the screw to seat in.
I was wondering where you purchased the front wheels. I'm building what will look like a vintage tri car that was a motorcycle with a tadpole front end with a seat on it. Thank you for any help.
Fluted plastic for now. I once added a few sheets under my CRX to smooth the under surface out. It held up great until I drove the car over 9" of fresh snow on the road.
Put a downward facing spoiler under where your feet rest, so that it diverts the wind towards the ground, in order to keep aerodynamics good for your open section under your legs. If you make one that's on a hinge, you could adjust how much air gets in as needed for comfort
I was just mocking up a door hatch similar to my last trike. Was thinking of going with Coroplast but might go with aluminum for durability. It's an extra few pounds but probably worth in.
Hi Paul Came across this by accident, looking for info on electric trikes. I'm almost 81 & assembled a Marlin & a Morgan trike back in the mid eighties. Had any thoughts on an electric version. Regards Eric YT stearman65
I know the risk that asbestos insulation poses but would it be possible to get an insulation mat that you could put under the gas tank so as to alleviate some of the heat issue insulation is very lightweight that or an electric fan inside the top tube rail where the gas tank originally mounted to the bike running the hot air up and out or reversing it and pulling colder air from the cabin pulling hot air up and out the side vents you plan on installing I'm loving the build paul really excited to see her get her maiden voyage
Hmm bad words spoken here... from time to time. ;-) Paul on your fan shaft did you file a flat spot for the set screw to seat on? For cooling airflow instead of holes in the body panels maybe NASA style duct outlets or shark gill vents like you find on speedboats. I'm enjoying seeing your rig come together.
I did cus some, but only when I felt the need. And yes, I did file a flat spot for the Allen screw to seat on, but when the motor stops it stops now. It's just a cheap Chinese item. Nothing high quality. I'll be adding a 2" x 14" floor pan scoop starting at the back of the seat with the air directed at the motor.
I notice you put your feet through the floor to get out through the window section. If you do decide to put a floor in, your feet will be higher up when trying to get out, putting your body in a tighter crunched position when trying to get out through the window. Also if you don’t put a floor in, I would think that would allow water and debris to get in. Just an observation. Great work my friend
Paul have you thought about weight the trike to see if it’s fairly equal weight from front to back im just curious because it’s probably very front heavy at the moment and also I’m very worried if you were to be rear ended is there enough strength in the seat steel plate to stop that engine from coming threw to your back i guess what I’m getting at you can probably afford to add a little strength back there and help you In severs ways
My thoughts were along the lines of yours save that I saw...hmmm how will I explain this.... like a much thicker mud guard, heavier gauge either half round or bent box to follow over the back wheel and offer the engine area some protection from a rear end. This central mud guard would at the end, allow fitment of the side panels, negating the need for the side rails. Were the side rails aluminum so maybe a mute point. Concerning the alternative fuel tank, I think there is much to commend the design by moving the fuel tank outside of the driver compartment where fumes may lurk in and around the driver. I'm sure any road safety inspection would welcome this change if not deny acceptance the way it is. If it also improves luggage space, this is a good plus. Is there a reason the metal between engine bay and passenger compartments are called 'the firewall' ? The fighter cockpit over arch is cumbersome and adds complexity. How you get into and out of the vehicle is now a contortionist party trick. There can be little more frustrating than an involved safety belt set up that won't let you reach the dashboard, or your mobile phone or to change channel on your radio without stopping, unbuckling, do what ever, buckling up and continuing. In the last video on the road test, you avoided a large puddle at the side of the road. Think about that, had you been forced to go into it by another car approaching, and you've got no floor under you. EEeeeeewwww. The indicator set up being so close to the central line of the vehicle adds nothing to help other road users understand your intentions. Get the indicators further apart to make your signals and intentions clearer. Love the build Paul. I'm living one of my bucket list dreams, unfulfilled, by watching your progress.
@@alexwild4350 Good Comment Alex! So right on on some of your suggestions. I told my wife this rig is getting a bit cramped. Looking at my old trike I had a door, room for elbows and I could reach the dash board. It's taught me to not let one cool item, the acrylic dome, be the main item you build around. Now I'm just making the best with what I'v created, knowing there's a better way. Kinda disappointing and inconvenient to get in and out, but hey, if anything it feel of a formula race car! Just not as fast...
@@paulwelkinsdiy Thinking more, and thinking 'American' [I'm British], thinking Horses, was thinking down the line of 'saddle bags' for the petrol tank. This could hang above the rear wheel, with one tank, plastic barrel, either side over the rear wheel. Then it dawned on me your existing fuel tank, for sitting over the top frame member on the original bike, is probably already like saddle bags under neath. If you have a mud guard arrangement over the rear wheel as described previously, then the existing fuel tank could sit above the rear wheel, and above its maximum travel, this might be perfect. Perfect because with a bit of sculpture work on the body panels, you've then already got a lockable fuel filler cap that needs no extra work. Would the tank work better 'the wrong way around' in this role,pointy end facing forward, and moved aft until the filler cap is just about in the right place to work with the body work ? If you then added a 'firewall' panel from top to bottom behind the drivers seat, as per Brody Jo's comments, this would separate the engine and driver compartments, and as an added bonus, stop any shopping goods on the upper parcel shelf clouting the driver on the back of the head for sudden braking. Brody Jo is quite right. If you get shunted, with that full harness on, you won't be going anywhere, but that Engine won't stop until its buried itself in your body under impact. Some of that concertina flexible aluminium vent ducting used for cooker hoods suggests itself to duct fresh air onto the cylinders and would probably look proper racing car. And your comment "just not as fast..." is as we say in the UK "the famous last words." Your next video will tell us how your wifes sisters brother in law 2nd cousin was clearing out a cupboard where he found, still in its manufactures packaging, a brand new Honda 900cc Turbo charged motorcycle engine he'd got no use for. Look forward to see how things progress :)
I think it'd look better if you leave the back wheel more exposed. It also seems like getting out in a hurry is going to be a problem, pro's have to do it in 4 seconds for safety. I really like what you're doing here though, have wanted something like this myself for years.
I favor the Flintstone reverse technique (hatch door) It's simple and it gives you interior air flow without having to create side window openings. But unlike my first trike, this simple suspension system did take up some room for foot movement when engaged on the ground.
LOL ....... I guess 8 ft is close enough. My heart would still be pounding. Clever removable crash bars. Were you planning in wearing a helmet? Doesn’t look like you could clear the new hoop with a helmet on. Thanks for the update 👍👍😎👍👍
What do you think about climbing in in between the two roll bars instead of in between the front bar and the dash? You could use the crash bar on the side as a step and step in onto your seat. I’d just be worried about banging my head on the front bar every time you get in and out. Then again, you’d have to deal with mud and stuff on your seat if you climb in in between the two bars. You’ve probably thought this stuff through... By the way, have you thought about mirrors yet? Once I saw you in the seat and where your eyeline would sit, I imagined bullet style mirrors right on top of your front fenders. Probably jumping ahead, but I can’t help it! It’s really coming together.
I did think of that, but the step was markedly higher, although I didn't think about stepping on the crash bar. Too I didn't like the idea of mud on my seat. Mirrors have not been thought of yet. Eventually. I had always envisioned teardrop back to back amber blinkers sitting on the top just above my head. I might have to make them.
@@paulwelkinsdiy if you’re open to it, I’ll send you some spare signals I have that I was gonna put on my motorcycle. I’ll warn you though, they are TINY; about an inch and a quarter around. I’m sure they’re plenty bright, I just didn’t end up using them. I ordered them off of wish a few years back and they’ve just been sitting on a shelf ever since. They look like these ones here: dl.wish.com/StRUU
ehh, what's a little fire between friends? the small emergencies that get your adrenalin flowing are just the spice of life that flavor the dish. at least, if you don't burn the house down in the process. that can get kinda difficult to explain to the missus.
The trouble with roll cages, is that they can brain you in a crash. The braces on the rear hoop look close enough for you to hit your temple in a side or diagonal impact. If that’s the case, then you’ll need a helmet for this one, and that will require a redesign of the middle hoop. Paul, I love your designs and your ingenuity, but I’m concerned for your safety with this one.
I ask you, why not slide the red fuel tank rearward until it runs out of room? It looks like it is 3-dimentionally shaped to fit into that space and the reams of usable storage in front of it once it is in this position, would make useful storage. Waaay back atop the rear tire.... I bet your gas stays cool. I owned an FJR1300 for 11 years, that thing (liquid cooled, aluminum block mounted to an aluminum frame, all covered in abs plastic, tank tucked in behind a wide-ish windshield) was famous for cooking riders, but Yamaha only had a thin film of reflective insulation under the tank to keep the gas cool. After a short ride on a 70 degree day the frame would burn a bare hand, but the gas stayed cool. Finally, consider integrating the clutch actuation into the shifting lever- the first bit of movement loads the clutch and the last bit of the range nudges the shifter. Sure, it has to function on downshifts too -- maybe you are the sort who likes to upshift without a clutch? No one likes a showoff! Enjoying the build, hello from New Brunswick Canada! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the comments! First, Hanging the tank over the wheel adds a higher center of gravity, in sharp turns it can might wash the rear wheel out sooner than if inboard, and finally I didn't want the tank to be the rear bumper. Not a good idea. I thought a lot on where to put the pedals and levers. The best would have been making the left pedal the shifter as on most motorcycles. I don't have a direct line for a straight connecting rod but a boat motor steering cable would have worked. I just opted for the hand shifter, even though it's not a good idea to have one hand off the steering levers when under way.
Luv the engineering but don't think ol Ralphie would approve. Safe at any speed?😉 IMHO, power to weight and mpg dropping with all the steel for that engine. Why not just use conduit and diet? 😝 Research cycling streamliners for framing comparison. I've fantasized about a project like this after seeing one in the 90s built by an aerospace engineer airplane styled with larger engine and all aluminum. Damned of I can remember it. And the 70s Popular Mechanics build that went cross country for 100+ mpg.
Nice work Sir! I implore you....please put the guard back on your angle grinder. There is NO BENEFIT to taking it off. Also try the Milwaukee Inkzall indelible marker. I like em way better than a Sharpie. 👍👍
@@krissfemmpaws1029 sorry but you're incorrect... About 30 years ago I used a 125cc Honda ATV engine in a buckboard car replica...engine is in an enclosure of sorts (part of the seat) I have 2x12V fans that flow around 200cfm @1A 12W each...I have them thermostatically set and staged at 300F and 400F, the second fan rarely comes on now, as CHT rarely gets above 400F...(my lawn mower with flywheel cooling fan runs almost 500F) The first fans I had 30yrs ago were about 2/3 that CFM and it cooled ok, but the second fan ran more...when I found some better ones I upgraded. It takes very little air movement to cool these engines...Even under heavy load... That fan on that camshaft @ 5000rpm (if the engine turns 10K) would be hard pressed to move 1-200cfm in its unshrouded set up... The 10" 4A fan my truck has on it for AUX cooling when A/C comes on is around 700cfm...that would actually be overkill on this project. So Yes a 200-250cfm computer cooling fan or two would easily cool the 185cc engine.
This thing is getting really fancy. Could be your greatest project Paul!
Thanks Vitality. I'm definitely winging it!
thats the first time i heard him swear lmao
I had to listen 3 times to completely satisfi myself that I heard him right, lol, but we are all human
Really enjoying watching the build and sharing your thinking/experimentation as you move things forward.
I think that middle U shaped roll protection is a overkill decision you'll regret later, it obstructs your field of view and makes it harder to get in and out of the cockpit.
Listen carefully for the fart sound: 1:41
1:59
"oh for farts sakes"
Good ears. Farts happen.
You're doing a great job Paul, it's coming along very nicely 👏👍
Thank you! I'm just happy I didn't burn my house down today.
This is a cool build. I came from your newer vid to see the rest of the trike
You'va done a great job.
Congratulations !
I love the 'incidental methane release' and apology, and the later 'appropriate expletive use'.
I miss my old shop. It had room to move. But I'm making the best of the 2 car garage.
Very impressive work, sir! I must add that I love the use of coroplast for the panels and body work! As my user name might indicate, I am a big fan of the use of Coro! FYI: a rc airplane built from coroplast is commonly referred to as a S.P.A.D.
I'm still playing with what to use body wise. At high speeds I'd like to think coro would hold up but we'll see.
Perhaps add some padding to that second rollbar, save you a few headbumps?
Indeed
couple of thoughts to consider
motor compartment ventilation: simple "scoops" one facing forward on the fan side, one facing backward on the other side nearer the back.
fan locking collar: what we used to do was "spot" the hole for the set screw. what i mean by that is use a smaller then the hole drill to make a divot in the shaft. then even if the set screw comes a little loose, it still holds.
Love Watching Your Genius Create.
Loving this project.
If you’re attached to the tank’s position (looks cool and easy to fill, imho), you can use heat-shielding mat (sold under ‘DEI engineering’ brand and found at better auto parts stores) glued to the underside of it. It not only increases safety margin but also your mpg! Cool build and likin’ your work!
Awesome job sure love to build one any set of blueprints or plans
Parabéns 🎉 MARAVILHA 👏👏👏
Oooo!!! Anthony Hopkins ?? 👍
2:00, I realize you are really human and not superhuman.
Paul you need a cup holder in there!!!
Where would I put it!!
Air vents on the side angled to catch air so motor is air cooled and maybe add a small 12.volt fan in front of motor for extra air to cool and blow fuel vapers out
great video again Paul! I'm so excited for you, this is so beyond my skill level, but I have often thought of using a 400 dollar Alibaba motorcycle for something similar, like how cheap could you build a functional vehicle like this?
looking good!
I'm looking forward to your solution regarding flat rear tire. I've stubled upon a number of vids with realy scary cases control lost as it happens.
I live in Moscow! I've been watching your work for a very long time. All my friends have a great admiration for your works. Boats, bicycle cars, motor cars, motor homes. Sculptures on the beach made of sand. Is there an end to your ideas? I hope not!
Дорогой товарищ)))) я живу в Москве! Очень давно наблюдаюдаю Ваше творчество. Всё мои друзья в восторге от твоих произведений. Лодки, велоавтомобиль, мотомашины, дом на колёсах. Скульптуры на пляже из песка. Есть ли конец Вашим идеям? Надеюсь, что нет!
Every workshop should have a "phew that was close, gimmie a moment" chair :)
Every episode is an education paul, vented floor pan might be an idea stop road debris , I think of burt Munro looking at what you've accomplished.
Fire Extinguishers are relatively cheap, I have them all around the house and in my outbuildings.
It was the first time I had to use one. Glad it was close and a rather new extinguisher. On pop and it was out.
Make tail to expand sidewise for shopping etc. For fuel tank, you have free place under your legs.
Are you planning on making some kind of reverse? If not you could leave the floor open to Fred Flinstone it backwards.
Done
Paul, is coroplast gasoline soluble?
Drill a small indent into the shaft for the set screw to "lock" into. This method has been in use for centuries and works in much the same way as a Woodruff key. It's "Woodruff key lite", so to speak.
I'll try that. The flat spot was just nicked out with my angle grinder. Not really flat, but I see the advantage of a small indent for the head of the screw to seat in.
Your footbox was looking pretty tight, not sure if you considered putting the clutch lever on the shift lever, and giving you room to left-foot brake.
I was wondering where you purchased the front wheels. I'm building what will look like a vintage tri car that was a motorcycle with a tadpole front end with a seat on it. Thank you for any help.
The Battle CRY of all inventors and builders "AWE FOR EFFFS SAKE"
If you keep the front open you should put a piece of mesh there for the bugs
Yeah, it seems a constant tight-walk between get-'er-done and staying safe. Right? Anyway, glad you're OK.
Man, that bike is looking sweet!
Thanks!
Excellent 👌
Good job! Which material are you going to use for the body?
Fluted plastic for now. I once added a few sheets under my CRX to smooth the under surface out. It held up great until I drove the car over 9" of fresh snow on the road.
if u cut vent holes behind the rear tire it should be enough to let hot air pass through
Put a downward facing spoiler under where your feet rest, so that it diverts the wind towards the ground, in order to keep aerodynamics good for your open section under your legs. If you make one that's on a hinge, you could adjust how much air gets in as needed for comfort
I was just mocking up a door hatch similar to my last trike. Was thinking of going with Coroplast but might go with aluminum for durability. It's an extra few pounds but probably worth in.
If you enter it wearing a helmet, your head may not fit under the roll bar. 🤔
But it does.
Do you really wanna be strapped to that thing if isht goes sideways?
Coroplast melts at 324 F, apparently. Should work fine. Not sure if it warps before then, but hopefully not.
The world needs more inventors like this guy vision
IT looks great. Were you planning on making a trailer for it?
nah. I'm asking a lot of the clutch as it is. I've added about 100 pounds to the original bike.
A layer of insulative/reflective material may go some way to protect the tank from the engine heat?
Thats what I'm thinking too. I have extra 2" wide fiberglass muffler pipe wrap. Maybe strings some of that under the tank. Hmmmm.
@@paulwelkinsdiy www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/dei-reflect-a-cool-under-tank-insulation-p
Offs....I like you a little more after that lol
Can you put the tank over the back tire?
Just remember the hotter your fuel is the more efficient it becomes
But I'd imagine there is a limit.
Perhaps you can build a heat shield between the engine and tank.
Hi Paul Came across this by accident, looking for info on electric trikes. I'm almost 81 & assembled a Marlin & a Morgan trike back in the mid eighties. Had any thoughts on an electric version. Regards Eric YT stearman65
I know the risk that asbestos insulation poses but would it be possible to get an insulation mat that you could put under the gas tank so as to alleviate some of the heat issue insulation is very lightweight that or an electric fan inside the top tube rail where the gas tank originally mounted to the bike running the hot air up and out or reversing it and pulling colder air from the cabin pulling hot air up and out the side vents you plan on installing I'm loving the build paul really excited to see her get her maiden voyage
www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/dei-reflect-a-cool-under-tank-insulation-p
That'd work right there good detective work bud
Hmm bad words spoken here... from time to time. ;-)
Paul on your fan shaft did you file a flat spot for the set screw to seat on?
For cooling airflow instead of holes in the body panels maybe NASA style duct outlets or shark gill vents like you find on speedboats.
I'm enjoying seeing your rig come together.
I did cus some, but only when I felt the need. And yes, I did file a flat spot for the Allen screw to seat on, but when the motor stops it stops now. It's just a cheap Chinese item. Nothing high quality.
I'll be adding a 2" x 14" floor pan scoop starting at the back of the seat with the air directed at the motor.
A question, how many miles per gallon do you get driving this car?
I haven't got it licensed yet
I notice you put your feet through the floor to get out through the window section. If you do decide to put a floor in, your feet will be higher up when trying to get out, putting your body in a tighter crunched position when trying to get out through the window. Also if you don’t put a floor in, I would think that would allow water and debris to get in. Just an observation. Great work my friend
I just added a hatch door on the floor. Thanks for the comment though!
Maybe get an auto radiator fan they are 12 volt and can be mounted anywhere and you can get ones with a thermostat.
bravo
Paul have you thought about weight the trike to see if it’s fairly equal weight from front to back im just curious because it’s probably very front heavy at the moment and also I’m very worried if you were to be rear ended is there enough strength in the seat steel plate to stop that engine from coming threw to your back i guess what I’m getting at you can probably afford to add a little strength back there and help you In severs ways
My thoughts were along the lines of yours save that I saw...hmmm how will I explain this.... like a much thicker mud guard, heavier gauge either half round or bent box to follow over the back wheel and offer the engine area some protection from a rear end. This central mud guard would at the end, allow fitment of the side panels, negating the need for the side rails. Were the side rails aluminum so maybe a mute point.
Concerning the alternative fuel tank, I think there is much to commend the design by moving the fuel tank outside of the driver compartment where fumes may lurk in and around the driver. I'm sure any road safety inspection would welcome this change if not deny acceptance the way it is. If it also improves luggage space, this is a good plus. Is there a reason the metal between engine bay and passenger compartments are called 'the firewall' ?
The fighter cockpit over arch is cumbersome and adds complexity. How you get into and out of the vehicle is now a contortionist party trick. There can be little more frustrating than an involved safety belt set up that won't let you reach the dashboard, or your mobile phone or to change channel on your radio without stopping, unbuckling, do what ever, buckling up and continuing.
In the last video on the road test, you avoided a large puddle at the side of the road. Think about that, had you been forced to go into it by another car approaching, and you've got no floor under you. EEeeeeewwww.
The indicator set up being so close to the central line of the vehicle adds nothing to help other road users understand your intentions. Get the indicators further apart to make your signals and intentions clearer.
Love the build Paul. I'm living one of my bucket list dreams, unfulfilled, by watching your progress.
@@alexwild4350 Good Comment Alex!
So right on on some of your suggestions. I told my wife this rig is getting a bit cramped. Looking at my old trike I had a door, room for elbows and I could reach the dash board. It's taught me to not let one cool item, the acrylic dome, be the main item you build around. Now I'm just making the best with what I'v created, knowing there's a better way.
Kinda disappointing and inconvenient to get in and out, but hey, if anything it feel of a formula race car! Just not as fast...
@@paulwelkinsdiy Thinking more, and thinking 'American' [I'm British], thinking Horses, was thinking down the line of 'saddle bags' for the petrol tank. This could hang above the rear wheel, with one tank, plastic barrel, either side over the rear wheel. Then it dawned on me your existing fuel tank, for sitting over the top frame member on the original bike, is probably already like saddle bags under neath. If you have a mud guard arrangement over the rear wheel as described previously, then the existing fuel tank could sit above the rear wheel, and above its maximum travel, this might be perfect. Perfect because with a bit of sculpture work on the body panels, you've then already got a lockable fuel filler cap that needs no extra work. Would the tank work better 'the wrong way around' in this role,pointy end facing forward, and moved aft until the filler cap is just about in the right place to work with the body work ?
If you then added a 'firewall' panel from top to bottom behind the drivers seat, as per Brody Jo's comments, this would separate the engine and driver compartments, and as an added bonus, stop any shopping goods on the upper parcel shelf clouting the driver on the back of the head for sudden braking. Brody Jo is quite right. If you get shunted, with that full harness on, you won't be going anywhere, but that Engine won't stop until its buried itself in your body under impact.
Some of that concertina flexible aluminium vent ducting used for cooker hoods suggests itself to duct fresh air onto the cylinders and would probably look proper racing car.
And your comment "just not as fast..." is as we say in the UK "the famous last words." Your next video will tell us how your wifes sisters brother in law 2nd cousin was clearing out a cupboard where he found, still in its manufactures packaging, a brand new Honda 900cc Turbo charged motorcycle engine he'd got no use for.
Look forward to see how things progress :)
I want my knew kname to be "Plumb Bob".😊
You make it like Wright brothers made the airplane: " It fly, but wait a minute, where we put the pilot?"
Hi nice engineering and great project but be careful not to make a cage that you get trapped in! 😁
Indeed. It is getting cramped in there.
I think it'd look better if you leave the back wheel more exposed. It also seems like getting out in a hurry is going to be a problem, pro's have to do it in 4 seconds for safety. I really like what you're doing here though, have wanted something like this myself for years.
Does this thing have reverse? If not, then leaving the floor open is a smart move. ;)
I favor the Flintstone reverse technique (hatch door) It's simple and it gives you interior air flow without having to create side window openings. But unlike my first trike, this simple suspension system did take up some room for foot movement when engaged on the ground.
Add a side impact crash bar so you make sure you get pinned in instead of broken arm
I wanna figure out a way to put insulation in the gaps in chloroplast, because I wanna make a long distance moped camper
You and me both. I've thought of 'great stuff' with a long 7ft application tube to run down each flute, but that would take some effort.
LOL ....... I guess 8 ft is close enough. My heart would still be pounding. Clever removable crash bars. Were you planning in wearing a helmet? Doesn’t look like you could clear the new hoop with a helmet on. Thanks for the update 👍👍😎👍👍
That's what I was thinking, maybe the canopy crash bar could be hinged similar to a ww2 Me BF109 German fighter plane. Would be cool too.
It does, but barely.
What did this cost all together?
About 3 thousand.
@@paulwelkinsdiy Awesome.
Really digging the build.
What do you think about climbing in in between the two roll bars instead of in between the front bar and the dash? You could use the crash bar on the side as a step and step in onto your seat. I’d just be worried about banging my head on the front bar every time you get in and out. Then again, you’d have to deal with mud and stuff on your seat if you climb in in between the two bars. You’ve probably thought this stuff through...
By the way, have you thought about mirrors yet? Once I saw you in the seat and where your eyeline would sit, I imagined bullet style mirrors right on top of your front fenders. Probably jumping ahead, but I can’t help it! It’s really coming together.
I did think of that, but the step was markedly higher, although I didn't think about stepping on the crash bar. Too I didn't like the idea of mud on my seat.
Mirrors have not been thought of yet. Eventually. I had always envisioned teardrop back to back amber blinkers sitting on the top just above my head. I might have to make them.
@@paulwelkinsdiy if you’re open to it, I’ll send you some spare signals I have that I was gonna put on my motorcycle. I’ll warn you though, they are TINY; about an inch and a quarter around. I’m sure they’re plenty bright, I just didn’t end up using them. I ordered them off of wish a few years back and they’ve just been sitting on a shelf ever since.
They look like these ones here:
dl.wish.com/StRUU
I think you should collab with James Gurney who paints and also do a lot of DIY stuff... and he probably loves what you are doing here.
LOL!
ehh, what's a little fire between friends? the small emergencies that get your adrenalin flowing are just the spice of life that flavor the dish. at least, if you don't burn the house down in the process. that can get kinda difficult to explain to the missus.
LOL!
restecpa for not editing out that fart part.
fukem.
as always, great vidjeo
take care
ps. watch out, ill bet that lady is getting heavy ;)
The trouble with roll cages, is that they can brain you in a crash. The braces on the rear hoop look close enough for you to hit your temple in a side or diagonal impact. If that’s the case, then you’ll need a helmet for this one, and that will require a redesign of the middle hoop. Paul, I love your designs and your ingenuity, but I’m concerned for your safety with this one.
Me too! I'll have padding on the two roll bars and I'll be wearing a helmet.
I ask you, why not slide the red fuel tank rearward until it runs out of room? It looks like it is 3-dimentionally shaped to fit into that space and the reams of usable storage in front of it once it is in this position, would make useful storage. Waaay back atop the rear tire....
I bet your gas stays cool. I owned an FJR1300 for 11 years, that thing (liquid cooled, aluminum block mounted to an aluminum frame, all covered in abs plastic, tank tucked in behind a wide-ish windshield) was famous for cooking riders, but Yamaha only had a thin film of reflective insulation under the tank to keep the gas cool. After a short ride on a 70 degree day the frame would burn a bare hand, but the gas stayed cool.
Finally, consider integrating the clutch actuation into the shifting lever- the first bit of movement loads the clutch and the last bit of the range nudges the shifter. Sure, it has to function on downshifts too -- maybe you are the sort who likes to upshift without a clutch? No one likes a showoff!
Enjoying the build, hello from New Brunswick Canada! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the comments! First, Hanging the tank over the wheel adds a higher center of gravity, in sharp turns it can might wash the rear wheel out sooner than if inboard, and finally I didn't want the tank to be the rear bumper. Not a good idea.
I thought a lot on where to put the pedals and levers. The best would have been making the left pedal the shifter as on most motorcycles. I don't have a direct line for a straight connecting rod but a boat motor steering cable would have worked. I just opted for the hand shifter, even though it's not a good idea to have one hand off the steering levers when under way.
I'm not sure you're going to have clearance under that first loop with a helmet on.
That battery event would have been a really bad end to the series!
INDEED!!!
Blood, sweat, & tears👍
and farts
Just the turbo kicking in.
1:41 i thought, i heard something..😅
That’s gonna itch when it dries.
Luv the engineering but don't think ol Ralphie would approve.
Safe at any speed?😉
IMHO, power to weight and mpg dropping with all the steel for that engine. Why not just use conduit and diet? 😝 Research cycling streamliners for framing comparison. I've fantasized about a project like this after seeing one in the 90s built by an aerospace engineer airplane styled with larger engine and all aluminum. Damned of I can remember it. And the 70s Popular Mechanics build that went cross country for 100+ mpg.
Safety third!
Kinda adding alotta weight with all that tubing, h'aintcha? Seatbelts?! Aw, safety schmaftety - so airbags, crumple zones & auto-brakes are next...?
I know. It's a fine balance. Where do you start with safety and where do you end..
I did a double take when I saw the election sign 'Elect Damian'. Good thing it is spelled different than the Omen's Damien though. Ha Ha.
1:59 xD Hahahah
"Oh F me to tears" was one a friend used to say...
Time to go lithium!
LOL! I just might!
Oh for fucks sake’s
Nice work Sir! I implore you....please put the guard back on your angle grinder. There is NO BENEFIT to taking it off. Also try the Milwaukee Inkzall indelible marker. I like em way better than a Sharpie. 👍👍
I don't understand the use of a mechanically driven cooling fan when electric fans are easy to source. Just find a wrecking yard.
Most car electric fans pull more power than the charging system of this little 185cc motor puts out.
@@krissfemmpaws1029You got it Kriss!
Stanley I thought that at first... I would (And Have) use the largest computer fans... Take only a few watts
@@misters2837 a computer fan that you find in s PC is not going to move the air required to cool that motorcycle motor.
@@krissfemmpaws1029 sorry but you're incorrect... About 30 years ago I used a 125cc Honda ATV engine in a buckboard car replica...engine is in an enclosure of sorts (part of the seat) I have 2x12V fans that flow around 200cfm @1A 12W each...I have them thermostatically set and staged at 300F and 400F, the second fan rarely comes on now, as CHT rarely gets above 400F...(my lawn mower with flywheel cooling fan runs almost 500F) The first fans I had 30yrs ago were about 2/3 that CFM and it cooled ok, but the second fan ran more...when I found some better ones I upgraded. It takes very little air movement to cool these engines...Even under heavy load... That fan on that camshaft @ 5000rpm (if the engine turns 10K) would be hard pressed to move 1-200cfm in its unshrouded set up... The 10" 4A fan my truck has on it for AUX cooling when A/C comes on is around 700cfm...that would actually be overkill on this project. So Yes a 200-250cfm computer cooling fan or two would easily cool the 185cc engine.
A trike is a three wheel vehicle why have you put reverse in the title it makes no sense a trike is a trike no matter which way around the wheels are