And at ABSOLUTE minimum put a hose on it that redirects the overflow pipe so it's not blowing at the back of your neck... Regarding power, the 600cc engine makes it's HP at the upper end of the RPM range, so if you keep it revved over 9k you will feel the power more.
Great job so far. Air ducting and an electric cooling fan. Keep that radiator. Only need a fan at low speed. And bring your idle down. Again, great build.
That thing is really cool, and it is going to be a lot of fun. Just like a motorcycle, it is going to take a while to remember to turn off the indicators after you turn.
You need to go more positive camber on the front wheels, looks like an equal amount on both sides. You can add a rub block of UHMW plastic for a chain guide so you don't wear a groove in the metal brackets at the front area of the chain. Finish that thing and get it legal.
It looks like it is very stable with the camber set where it’s at, and that’s a good thing. *Have to remember that he is probably running 35psi in these tires and at that pressure, designed to support ALOT more rolling weight. **If he plays with the air pressure on the fronts and rear tires, his current setup will work even better.
Oh yeah, let's throw in some random caster and camber and some toe because we never drove it and know if it's over or understeering or very sensitive at speed. You, armchair mechanics, are hilarious. 😂
Maybe even, idk, a fan or something? A bigger radiator or a second radiator with a fan or two. He did say he meant to install a fan on it, so he knows the radiator was getting little to no airflow in its current setup, that's why he wasn't gunning the throttle that much methinks (beyond his slow-moving neighborhood) but he didn't expect it to overheat so quickly. And with a new engine with more power, hopefully with a reverse gear, he will need more radiator surface area and more airspeed as well, thus powerful fans and more radiator with ducting to provide enough airflow at higher speeds to replace the need for the fan to be running at full power.
if you do swap the engine, try to find one with a title, all you need besides that is probably mirrors and horn and I bet you could get it street legal. Inline 4 motorcycle engines do sound mean when they get past 10k rpms though :)
I have front hubs,wheels and discs from a BMW 3 series I got from the scrap yard.Can anyone tell me if its possible to create A arms for them or will I have to get custom hubs made?
@@surplusstock8778 no, as long as your frame has been registered. Technically, you would have to pass inspections and apply for a rebuilt title and of course, it would have to comply with all of your state codes. I’ve done it a couple of times, it’s not really that bad. Just time consuming and sometimes frustrating, especially now with the coronavirus scare... Buuuut.....there’s ways around it😬
I'd also fix the swingarm mount position. It's not strictly necessary but it will make a big difference in the long run. Be a shame to get lazy at the end when this thing is so cool.
@@Lucas12v I actually don't think he needs to. Take a look at the way most motorcycles are set up, and you'll see that most have their swingarm behind the sprocket. Nearly all motorcycles have chain torque, but that's why adjusting the chain to gave the proper amount of slack under full load is important. Honestly, if he loosened up the chain, and put in some good plastic chain guides, I think it'll be fine.
I would say take it to a drag strip as well as a road course before you go putting too much motor in it and make it deadly fast. Add cooling fan to radiator and an overflow bottle and add protection to keep you from getting smoked if the cap blows off. After that overheat I would also be weary of warping or head gasket failure. Been waiting to see this finished for a while! Always love your projects
Not sure of the laws where you are but I'm from Missouri and I was told by the highway patrol that if you use enough of the frame from an actual motorcycle then you can license these just like a normal trike motorcycle. Main thing being the VIN. So if you have a frame you might be able to weld it to the back and get this thing street legal. Just an idea keep up the great builds.
I would try actually running that engine in its power band before deciding to swap it. You weren't feeling anywhere near the full power with the rpm that low. Also, in most states you can register those as a motorcycle, so try contacting your Department of Motor Vehicles to find out what would be required to be road legal. It can't hurt to ask.
Consider adding a coolant overflow tank like the ones found on modern cars and trucks. But maybe install a bigger radiator or a second one, as well as at least one electric fan with a proper shroud first. Perhaps move the radiator up to the front of the vehicle to put it more prominently in the air stream up there, assuming there's a place there where it can be mounted which there quite possibly might NOT be.
Those front brake rotors need to get more heat in them before they really start grabbing. Having the rear caliper hooked up will help too. Great job my man!
@@carl9537 Yea... haven't you ever driven your car when it's cold out? The first few times you hit the brakes they don't work as well because there isn't any heat in them. Cold metal = Less friction. Warm metal = more friction. Now that having been said, I'm not talking a blazing amount of heat. But that machine isn't heavy enough to heat those massive brake disc's just in the short amount of time it was driven. Also, I have a degree in the automotive field, and am ASE Certified. Just FYI.😘
_"If it looks right it is right"._ You have a natural eye for chassis/suspension geometry. I knew it was going to overheat from the get-go though, with a rad that size, out of the air flow, no fan, at that time of year - I was literally waiting for it to boil when you switched off. But don't mind me, I'm one of those "you missed a bit" types, your projects are fantastic.
Glad to see you have it closer to being finished. well if they ever really are finished..lol. what if you add a small cowl on the loop like a F1 to push air down to Rad also. just a thought. be well
I was thinking along the same lines & maybe an air duct or secondary radiator on the nose to assist ...I'd love to give that machine a run out where I live here in the North of Sweden ...You can go for Hours without seeing hardly any traffic!😀👍
Need to raise the front suspension a touch so you have full contact patch with the tires or your going to wear them out fast (and have less than max traction)
It's a dual a arm set up that appears to be the same length topped up bodem so raising your suspension will not change your contact patch you need to do it by adjusting the a arm.
I think the comments covered everything man, but I dont think I saw this subject mentioned. Your camera on the front, what it shows (aside from your ear to ear grin), is the pretty much perfect symmetry of your tubes. Frame tubes. Your bends, positioning, fit up etc, all looks completely matched. That part (to me anyways) trumps every single other facet of this build. Camber, cooling, power, mirrors etc, all that stuff is nothing, compared to building a frame. Im a noob tube bender, and Ive got a Rogue Fab M600 with all of the goodies, but knowing the small amount I know already, its easy to see youre dialed in. That right there is the biggest hurdle , again in my head anyways. Well done.
Your idle is still high.. Underneath the carbs toward the center of the bike there is a little twist knob that adjusts idle.. Usually there is a 12in cable dangling off of it, with another twist know on the end that clips onto your fairings (on the bike) so that you can adjust idle from the outside. You should be able to find it fairly easy. I've personally never seen an idle cable break or have issues, so I would bet that it's hanging right there once you start looking.
WHAT A BLAST...THE CA.ERA POSITIONS ARE EXCELLANTLY POSITIONED...I GET THE FEEL...YEAH BUDDY...THAT 600cc RUNS OUT SO NIIICE...A FRIEND & I RODE OUT BIKES OUT OF HUNTINGTON BEACH...NORTH THROUGH OREGON WASHINGTON IDAHO MONTANA AND BACK...OUTSTANDING TRIP...ONE OF MY GREATEST MEMORIES...THOSE ROADS ARE NIIICE...
Definitely install a splash wall between you and the radiator and motor, as well as installing body fairing that funnels air through the motor well and the radiator. Protect yourself first, and protect the motor.
Extra video this week! Nice treat. This thing looks like a blast! I think the radiator you have now is fine. Maybe mount it below the upper support and make a cowl to grab the air from the roll hoop. Add a fan and you'll be golden!
You need a fan on that Rad. You need something on your instrument panel, to indicate that your turn signal is on. You need an expansion tank for the overflow on that Rad. And brake disks, aren't supposed to make that grinding sound when you spin the wheels. Other than that, great build!!
Great fun! And well done! Contrast the position/angle/placement of the standard CBR rad positioning - there's nothing inhibiting the air-flow. + the fairing on many bikes acts as a scoop, driving air into the rad > could fabricate something to do the job in ally. Looks like the air-box is obstructing, plus it's angled. + re-fit expansion vessel and hose. The OEM thermostatic set up might be up to the job, if you correct the angle/obstruction, catch the air flow. (Check the thermostat for function - an easy test).
looks very nicely set-up. That is probably static boiling, common to have an electric water pump to continue to cycle water with the engine off for a period of time (electric fan will help as well, also running after engine off). Bulk of braking is via the front wheels, probably just needs better master cylinder to caliper ratio. Needs more torque because of the extra weight, maybe the CBR 1000 engine you mentioned....? Good work!
A bigger radiator, with a fan , even by adding a pair of 'Ears" to the sides of the radiator to funnel the air to the core, but one thing I think you should consider is a rear tyre with more chunky and aggressive tread . On dirt, the tyre you have is going to get very little traction.
If you are planning on installing a bigger / more powerful engine it would be a good idea to move the swing arm pivot down a little so that it doesn't have so much torque jack. You could see in the last video and again in this one, that when you accelerate it really stand up on the rear. This will become more of an issue with more power and will make it unstable if you accelerate or decelerate around corners. Other than that, a brake upgrade would be smart if you plan on going on any sort of track or driving this fast. It's really impressive that you make your own discs, but they are not going to hold up to heavy breaking. Overall I'm very impressed with the way it works and handles !
Dude! Your neighborhood looks NICE! This thing has turned out pretty awesome! If all the parts were painted and it had bodywork on it I swear it would look like a big company made it! I promise that is a compliment! Way to go man!
Things to fix/upgrade: a dashboard blinker for the blinkers(bc you can't see if your blinkers are on 😁 ), need bigger radiator(you drove around 30/40 min(I guess) calmly, and it boiled the coolant, please hook up the back brakes(I don't want you to get ran over by a truck 😬), paint... I see you really like this project and if you like it I do too xd, keep it up 👍
Look Ma! No Tags! I'm above the law! It seems like it drives like it's on rails. Is the front track mighty wide? It about fills the lane you're in! I find it so cool that you can get insane amounts of power out of such a little engine! Think about installing a cutout that runs the exhaust through quiet mufflers in case you need to go in to silent mode...... In addition you have a closed radiator system with no overflow jug. the rad cap you have is for an open system. it expects to push coolant out and then suck it back in when it cools off. And yes, a Radiator fan would help. Looks like fun!
Do a hard break check to know how it’s going to react under emergency stopping. Before you go 70mph on treed back roads. Be safe young man. You got skills we need you alive.
You have convinced me, I've got a GPZ600 & an OG mini front subframe, oh & a turbo, & with a bit of luck & a big hammer they will go together beautifully, it won't be as long as yours & it will definitely be narrower but it should be a really fun thing to play with, this will be my first dip into Turbo's I don't think they work on most bikes I'm more of a Nitros kinda guy but if they are fitted properly Superchargers work incredibly well, but with this, I should have plenty of room to play with & hopefully it won't look Shite like they do on most bikes. Nice job with the front end it looks very much like an Ariel Atom, & that can never be a bad thing.
That thing is pretty badass looking and be awesome to get it done with that engine in it but I understand you're dilemma 1,000 cc's is much cooler but that may be on the open road would probably be pretty badass thanks for the video
small tip place the larger radiator between the front wheels with a fan at the bottom in a pull configuratie .and would straighten the front wheels abit for equal wear and grip, and a turbo maybe but really cool project
You need side ducting to the radiator I have built 3 reverse trikes. I ushaully/eventually move the rad to the front but the cure before that is ducting. A fan helps too 😜.
You need to add a proper car seat and harness, raise the front suspension a bit and correct the rear swing arm position, and obviously better radiator situation. Make those fixes and you will have a fun little vehicle to rip around some windy roads.
Titling brackets on the front wheels and a ball joint (or something) linkage between the chassis and the rear wheel mounts would probably improve the turning circle. Not sure which part of the country this is but it's absolutely beautiful countryside
It has to have a overflow tank, it should have more fluid than rad can hold when cold in system with room for a couple qts more for expansion and tank needs to have hole for pressure to escape during expansion and retraction. I bet that will solve the issue. Those inline 4's run on the warm side normally. Pretty sweet ride👍
WOW I LIVE IN THE CONTRY ON A DIRT ROAD AND IM WITHIN 10 TO 15 FEET OF MY PROPERTY WORKING ON TESTING A QUAD AND GET CHARGED FOR NO INSURANCE A BUNCH OF FINES BUT YOU R ABSOLUTELY AMAZING WITH YOUR WORK I WISH I HAD HALF OF YOUR EXPERTISE
Don't worry about hitting neutral sometimes.. It's common on most bikes-- you just have to get sued to deliberately shifting ALL THE WAY into 2nd.. You'll get it. They designed them to shift into neutral easier, so now they hit neutral a little too easy. lol.
Upgrade to larger front brake calipers, hook up the rear brake, run ducts to the rad, add a rad fan, the extended wiring could be adding residence so the temp isn't reading correctly. ✌
I think you should put the radiator in the front of the frame trike where your foot paddles are as the air would cool it down. the problem would make you to have a longer water hose or pipes.
It looks so cool on the road!!! Just put a big fan on it with some panels on each side to direct windflow.... as far a bigger motor go hayabusa you'll need it to spin that tire plus you can turbo it for 1200 afn produce roughly 330hp..that should send it!!! Swing arm also looks great!
Look, I’m impressed that you have evolved upwards… unlike some of the other channels, that in my humble opinion are stuck on stupid. I think we all know who / what I’m talking about? It’s really a fantastic project, and I’m VERY much looking forward to seeing you get it running on a track, or some place, you can see what it’s capable of? You sir, are VERY talented! Thank you for sharing!!
your radiator size is fine, does not take much to cool it with proper airflow through it. remember the rad sits out front. sitting behind the airbox WITHOUT ducting will cook the engine. also, idle seemed high, should be down around 1100 or so once warm. also, make sure you dont have any vacuum leaks. you do a great job. keep up the good work
If you can, get the rev counter from the CBr hooked up. An in line 4 motorcycle engine has almost no torque, only horsepower, that it delivers right up the top of the rev range. Find out where the rev limit is and start changing just before it 😄
maybe you could place 2 radiators on the side of the frame , on the part where now the radiator is located below. And a simple upgrade for braking are sintered brake pads
I got an idea for you, you should put a video screen up on the dash that is removable for your camera on the back so that you can see everything behind you when you're driving. I love the way you built it. Keep up the great work and I can't wait to see what's next. God Bless you and keep safe.🔥💯💪🏼👍👍😘😘✌😊✌
A good rad fan will solve your problem with heat. I would also check the cap seal and make sure you are using the right lbs cap. A catch can would make things less messy and would allow coolant to push out and be sucked back in on its own.
Everything looks solid and it tracks nice and clean, but the turning radius looks like it needs improving as that hard right uphill seemed to demonstrate.
Make a air duct, add a fan and lower the idle speed.. that will fix the over heating problem. If you do choose to swap the motor make sure you will be able to make it street legal. And if you are keeping those front rims do it black with red trim to match them
An overflow tank would help too. When coolant expandes it will go into the tank, when it cools it will suck it back into the radiator.
This. The coolant was coming out of the tube that would normally lead to a hose that dips into a vented overflow tank. It's supposed to do that.
And at ABSOLUTE minimum put a hose on it that redirects the overflow pipe so it's not blowing at the back of your neck...
Regarding power, the 600cc engine makes it's HP at the upper end of the RPM range, so if you keep it revved over 9k you will feel the power more.
Great job so far. Air ducting and an electric cooling fan. Keep that radiator. Only need a fan at low speed. And bring your idle down.
Again, great build.
That thing is really cool, and it is going to be a lot of fun. Just like a motorcycle, it is going to take a while to remember to turn off the indicators after you turn.
Lmao same with a dump truck we forgot all the time
How did you install the reverse gear sir?
@@luviminrobles2404 there isn't a reverse gear, he drifts backward
Ive had my 81 honda gl500 for 2 years .... still dont remember to turn off my indicators lol
@@luviminrobles2404 its call a gravity gear just drive up hill and gravity backs him back down
You need to go more positive camber on the front wheels, looks like an equal amount on both sides. You can add a rub block of UHMW plastic for a chain guide so you don't wear a groove in the metal brackets at the front area of the chain. Finish that thing and get it legal.
It looks like it is very stable with the camber set where it’s at, and that’s a good thing. *Have to remember that he is probably running 35psi in these tires and at that pressure, designed to support ALOT more rolling weight.
**If he plays with the air pressure on the fronts and rear tires, his current setup will work even better.
Maybe adjust the toe might help too
Looks pretty good to me, go any further and your wearing out tires every week lol
@@Todd_G_FPVthe tires are too tipped in at the top and he should be around 20-25psi in those tires for my guesstimate on the machines weight
Oh yeah, let's throw in some random caster and camber and some toe because we never drove it and know if it's over or understeering or very sensitive at speed. You, armchair mechanics, are hilarious. 😂
I think just having an air duct to the front of radiator would make a huge difference
definitely needs more air flow
Maybe even, idk, a fan or something? A bigger radiator or a second radiator with a fan or two. He did say he meant to install a fan on it, so he knows the radiator was getting little to no airflow in its current setup, that's why he wasn't gunning the throttle that much methinks (beyond his slow-moving neighborhood) but he didn't expect it to overheat so quickly. And with a new engine with more power, hopefully with a reverse gear, he will need more radiator surface area and more airspeed as well, thus powerful fans and more radiator with ducting to provide enough airflow at higher speeds to replace the need for the fan to be running at full power.
Why not mounting it in front of the feet, keeps them warm and has better flow.
@@michaeleckhard763 You have very interesting ideas dude, its acting like a heater core of sorts then, I'd have never considered that, that's smart :P
@@Avetho until it decided to spring a leak haha burnt feet anyone? Still a good idea tho just need a shield from burns and your good to go!
if you do swap the engine, try to find one with a title, all you need besides that is probably mirrors and horn and I bet you could get it street legal. Inline 4 motorcycle engines do sound mean when they get past 10k rpms though :)
It’s not the engine it’s the part of the frame with a vin you need for a title
No front end stabi?
I'm doing a similar project with a damaged Zero electric motorcycle.Does the electric motor need to have a Vin on it?
I have front hubs,wheels and discs from a BMW 3 series I got from the scrap yard.Can anyone tell me if its possible to create A arms for them or will I have to get custom hubs made?
@@surplusstock8778 no, as long as your frame has been registered. Technically, you would have to pass inspections and apply for a rebuilt title and of course, it would have to comply with all of your state codes. I’ve done it a couple of times, it’s not really that bad. Just time consuming and sometimes frustrating, especially now with the coronavirus scare... Buuuut.....there’s ways around it😬
Four things that would make this perfect:
- radiator fan
- firewall
- chain guide
- some bada$$ wheels and tires.
Very much agree on all you said! I'd include front and rear fenders, that will make it easier to get it road legal
I'd also fix the swingarm mount position. It's not strictly necessary but it will make a big difference in the long run. Be a shame to get lazy at the end when this thing is so cool.
@@Lucas12v I actually don't think he needs to. Take a look at the way most motorcycles are set up, and you'll see that most have their swingarm behind the sprocket. Nearly all motorcycles have chain torque, but that's why adjusting the chain to gave the proper amount of slack under full load is important. Honestly, if he loosened up the chain, and put in some good plastic chain guides, I think it'll be fine.
Obvious to anybody with a brain what was going to happen, been meaning to do that ?????
@@cinnamonrollypoly no crap, he's not talking about the swingarm being behind the sprocket, it's too high it needs to be about an inch or two down
I would say take it to a drag strip as well as a road course before you go putting too much motor in it and make it deadly fast. Add cooling fan to radiator and an overflow bottle and add protection to keep you from getting smoked if the cap blows off. After that overheat I would also be weary of warping or head gasket failure. Been waiting to see this finished for a while! Always love your projects
This one is a winner. need some nice painting and enjoy....
Gonna wear on inside of front tires.
Wow! This was an unsuspected treat!
Ohhhhh yeeeeaaaahhhh....very nice...
Man I could so see that with fiberglass body.
Bare steel, bits of rust, ty-wraps, sweet pipes and no plates! - You gotta luv it!
Hell ya that thing is fricken awesome
Not sure of the laws where you are but I'm from Missouri and I was told by the highway patrol that if you use enough of the frame from an actual motorcycle then you can license these just like a normal trike motorcycle. Main thing being the VIN. So if you have a frame you might be able to weld it to the back and get this thing street legal. Just an idea keep up the great builds.
I think if you add some air scoops and a fan that will fix your overheating issue
Bonus video. Nice job.
I would try actually running that engine in its power band before deciding to swap it. You weren't feeling anywhere near the full power with the rpm that low. Also, in most states you can register those as a motorcycle, so try contacting your Department of Motor Vehicles to find out what would be required to be road legal. It can't hurt to ask.
You are absolutely right
You got any ideas for a skin? Maybe some cool looking ducts to funnel air into the radiator. Like a sleek Indy car, meets mad max.
No skin looks badass but if he did it would look like the early 2000s t-rex trike
Consider adding a coolant overflow tank like the ones found on modern cars and trucks. But maybe install a bigger radiator or a second one, as well as at least one electric fan with a proper shroud first. Perhaps move the radiator up to the front of the vehicle to put it more prominently in the air stream up there, assuming there's a place there where it can be mounted which there quite possibly might NOT be.
Add side pods like an Indy car and then put the radiators in there one on each side angled forwards.
Those front brake rotors need to get more heat in them before they really start grabbing. Having the rear caliper hooked up will help too. Great job my man!
More heat in those thin disks ?! 😂
@@carl9537 Yea... haven't you ever driven your car when it's cold out? The first few times you hit the brakes they don't work as well because there isn't any heat in them. Cold metal = Less friction. Warm metal = more friction. Now that having been said, I'm not talking a blazing amount of heat. But that machine isn't heavy enough to heat those massive brake disc's just in the short amount of time it was driven. Also, I have a degree in the automotive field, and am ASE Certified. Just FYI.😘
_"If it looks right it is right"._ You have a natural eye for chassis/suspension geometry. I knew it was going to overheat from the get-go though, with a rad that size, out of the air flow, no fan, at that time of year - I was literally waiting for it to boil when you switched off. But don't mind me, I'm one of those "you missed a bit" types, your projects are fantastic.
Glad to see you have it closer to being finished. well if they ever really are finished..lol. what if you add a small cowl on the loop like a F1 to push air down to Rad also. just a thought. be well
I was thinking along the same lines & maybe an air duct or secondary radiator on the nose to assist ...I'd love to give that machine a run out where I live here in the North of Sweden ...You can go for Hours without seeing hardly any traffic!😀👍
Need to raise the front suspension a touch so you have full contact patch with the tires or your going to wear them out fast (and have less than max traction)
It's a dual a arm set up that appears to be the same length topped up bodem so raising your suspension will not change your contact patch you need to do it by adjusting the a arm.
duh you just need to do a proper front end alignment and not raise so much for your suspension knowledge
good catch! I agree. and also maybe a compensating shock to help stabilize the rear wheel.
I think the comments covered everything man, but I dont think I saw this subject mentioned. Your camera on the front, what it shows (aside from your ear to ear grin), is the pretty much perfect symmetry of your tubes. Frame tubes. Your bends, positioning, fit up etc, all looks completely matched. That part (to me anyways) trumps every single other facet of this build. Camber, cooling, power, mirrors etc, all that stuff is nothing, compared to building a frame. Im a noob tube bender, and Ive got a Rogue Fab M600 with all of the goodies, but knowing the small amount I know already, its easy to see youre dialed in. That right there is the biggest hurdle , again in my head anyways. Well done.
Thank you ... for the mid-week posting.
Your idle is still high.. Underneath the carbs toward the center of the bike there is a little twist knob that adjusts idle.. Usually there is a 12in cable dangling off of it, with another twist know on the end that clips onto your fairings (on the bike) so that you can adjust idle from the outside. You should be able to find it fairly easy. I've personally never seen an idle cable break or have issues, so I would bet that it's hanging right there once you start looking.
dude...you absolutely have to get that thing road ready and registered....you will hate yourself if you dont!!! BADASS!!
You've done a man's job, sir. Congratulations because from such nice design concept we all can learn.
Woooo! Thank you!!
Supper cool build I think sun body panels would look awesome. Aluminum or fiberglass for aerodynamics or sum like that
WHAT A BLAST...THE CA.ERA POSITIONS ARE EXCELLANTLY POSITIONED...I GET THE FEEL...YEAH BUDDY...THAT 600cc RUNS OUT SO NIIICE...A FRIEND & I RODE OUT BIKES OUT OF HUNTINGTON BEACH...NORTH THROUGH OREGON WASHINGTON IDAHO MONTANA AND BACK...OUTSTANDING TRIP...ONE OF MY GREATEST MEMORIES...THOSE ROADS ARE NIIICE...
Nice. Cant wait to see the new buggy!!!
Rear shock needs to be stiffer. Other than that cover the front and it’s done! 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Definitely install a splash wall between you and the radiator and motor, as well as installing body fairing that funnels air through the motor well and the radiator. Protect yourself first, and protect the motor.
Extra video this week! Nice treat. This thing looks like a blast! I think the radiator you have now is fine. Maybe mount it below the upper support and make a cowl to grab the air from the roll hoop. Add a fan and you'll be golden!
You need a fan on that Rad. You need something on your instrument panel, to indicate that your turn signal is on. You need an expansion tank for the overflow on that Rad. And brake disks, aren't supposed to make that grinding sound when you spin the wheels. Other than that, great build!!
it puts a smile in my face just watching it! hope i can build one someday! keep it up man!
You are the best, I admire your work and you can bet that you are an inspiration
Great fun! And well done!
Contrast the position/angle/placement of the standard CBR rad positioning -
there's nothing inhibiting the air-flow. + the fairing on many bikes acts as a scoop, driving air into the rad > could fabricate something to do the job in ally.
Looks like the air-box is obstructing, plus it's angled.
+ re-fit expansion vessel and hose. The OEM thermostatic set up might be up to the job,
if you correct the angle/obstruction, catch the air flow. (Check the thermostat for function - an easy test).
It might be a good idea to locate the radiator up front. That might be helpful if you plan to operate in cooler weather. You could use it as a heater.
should try to put some sort of front fender or debris shield so it dont kick up like a rock or anything at ya
looks very nicely set-up. That is probably static boiling, common to have an electric water pump to continue to cycle water with the engine off for a period of time (electric fan will help as well, also running after engine off). Bulk of braking is via the front wheels, probably just needs better master cylinder to caliper ratio. Needs more torque because of the extra weight, maybe the CBR 1000 engine you mentioned....? Good work!
Side wall air intake for coolant is what it needs I love the project
Look at that grin oh his little face! 😊
I know that feeling, mad respect mate. 🏆⚒️🇬🇧
A bigger radiator, with a fan , even by adding a pair of 'Ears" to the sides of the radiator to funnel the air to the core, but one thing I think you should consider is a rear tyre with more chunky and aggressive tread . On dirt, the tyre you have is going to get very little traction.
You really are the master of putting the radiator in a position where it will get zero air flow....
If you are planning on installing a bigger / more powerful engine it would be a good idea to move the swing arm pivot down a little so that it doesn't have so much torque jack. You could see in the last video and again in this one, that when you accelerate it really stand up on the rear. This will become more of an issue with more power and will make it unstable if you accelerate or decelerate around corners.
Other than that, a brake upgrade would be smart if you plan on going on any sort of track or driving this fast. It's really impressive that you make your own discs, but they are not going to hold up to heavy breaking.
Overall I'm very impressed with the way it works and handles !
Relevant level 3,000, ergonomic comfort to subscribers. As quoted by admirers: really cool.
dont stop this project it is great i like that reverse trike
Looks better on car tires
Dude! Your neighborhood looks NICE! This thing has turned out pretty awesome! If all the parts were painted and it had bodywork on it I swear it would look like a big company made it! I promise that is a compliment! Way to go man!
Things to fix/upgrade: a dashboard blinker for the blinkers(bc you can't see if your blinkers are on 😁 ), need bigger radiator(you drove around 30/40 min(I guess) calmly, and it boiled the coolant, please hook up the back brakes(I don't want you to get ran over by a truck 😬), paint...
I see you really like this project and if you like it I do too xd, keep it up 👍
Look Ma! No Tags! I'm above the law! It seems like it drives like it's on rails. Is the front track mighty wide? It about fills the lane you're in! I find it so cool that you can get insane amounts of power out of such a little engine! Think about installing a cutout that runs the exhaust through quiet mufflers in case you need to go in to silent mode......
In addition you have a closed radiator system with no overflow jug. the rad cap you have is for an open system. it expects to push coolant out and then suck it back in when it cools off. And yes, a Radiator fan would help. Looks like fun!
Do a hard break check to know how it’s going to react under emergency stopping. Before you go 70mph on treed back roads. Be safe young man. You got skills we need you alive.
You have convinced me, I've got a GPZ600 & an OG mini front subframe, oh & a turbo, & with a bit of luck & a big hammer they will go together beautifully, it won't be as long as yours & it will definitely be narrower but it should be a really fun thing to play with, this will be my first dip into Turbo's I don't think they work on most bikes I'm more of a Nitros kinda guy but if they are fitted properly Superchargers work incredibly well, but with this, I should have plenty of room to play with & hopefully it won't look Shite like they do on most bikes. Nice job with the front end it looks very much like an Ariel Atom, & that can never be a bad thing.
That thing is pretty badass looking and be awesome to get it done with that engine in it but I understand you're dilemma 1,000 cc's is much cooler but that may be on the open road would probably be pretty badass thanks for the video
Love how you roll thru all the stop signs
All it needs is an expansion tank….seriously. Awesome build!
It looked like you were having a blast riding that, It also needs some mirrors so you don't have to look behind you to see what's behind you.
small tip place the larger radiator between the front wheels with a fan at the bottom in a pull configuratie .and would straighten the front wheels abit for equal wear and grip, and a turbo maybe
but really cool project
You need side ducting to the radiator I have built 3 reverse trikes. I ushaully/eventually move the rad to the front but the cure before that is ducting. A fan helps too 😜.
Mirrors would have been handy on your drive there but it’s a nice machine you put together
Are you going to try to get that legalized?
I think you need to adjust the camber in the front, it looks like it's wearing uneven.
You need to add a proper car seat and harness, raise the front suspension a bit and correct the rear swing arm position, and obviously better radiator situation. Make those fixes and you will have a fun little vehicle to rip around some windy roads.
Por fin ese bendito motor funciono bien!
Golding engine with shaft drive! Reliable and powerful.
Oh, and reverse!
Titling brackets on the front wheels and a ball joint (or something) linkage between the chassis and the rear wheel mounts would probably improve the turning circle.
Not sure which part of the country this is but it's absolutely beautiful countryside
I was in the bathroom and missed your build,.... but I'm happy with your end results.
It has to have a overflow tank, it should have more fluid than rad can hold when cold in system with room for a couple qts more for expansion and tank needs to have hole for pressure to escape during expansion and retraction. I bet that will solve the issue. Those inline 4's run on the warm side normally. Pretty sweet ride👍
Should try to get it on the rd
this project is so cool ! keep making it better, it's worth it !
WOW I LIVE IN THE CONTRY ON A DIRT ROAD AND IM WITHIN 10 TO 15 FEET OF MY PROPERTY WORKING ON TESTING A QUAD AND GET CHARGED FOR NO INSURANCE A BUNCH OF FINES BUT YOU R ABSOLUTELY AMAZING WITH YOUR WORK I WISH I HAD HALF OF YOUR EXPERTISE
Don't worry about hitting neutral sometimes.. It's common on most bikes-- you just have to get sued to deliberately shifting ALL THE WAY into 2nd.. You'll get it. They designed them to shift into neutral easier, so now they hit neutral a little too easy. lol.
Very Nice build 👍🙂. Termostat regulated oil coler, and a bigger radiator as you said 🙂
This is one you need to perfect and patent. This needs to hit the streets big time.
Those are some great looking roads to cruise on. This project looks like so much fun!
Geeezzz that thing is wider than I thought. Takes up the whole lane
yeah, bigger radiator or mount one on each side? get more airflow to it and I think you'll be right.... love this thing mate.
Upgrade to larger front brake calipers, hook up the rear brake, run ducts to the rad, add a rad fan, the extended wiring could be adding residence so the temp isn't reading correctly. ✌
Just a radiator fan bro, will keep that thing cool.. need to draw the heat out of the coolant.
I think you should put the radiator in the front of the frame trike where your foot paddles are as the air would cool it down. the problem would make you to have a longer water hose or pipes.
Looking good. I would move those taillights. Maybe under the the tubing. They just hang out there
It looks so cool on the road!!! Just put a big fan on it with some panels on each side to direct windflow.... as far a bigger motor go hayabusa you'll need it to spin that tire plus you can turbo it for 1200 afn produce roughly 330hp..that should send it!!! Swing arm also looks great!
Look, I’m impressed that you have evolved upwards… unlike some of the other channels, that in my humble opinion are stuck on stupid. I think we all know who / what I’m talking about?
It’s really a fantastic project, and I’m VERY much looking forward to seeing you get it running on a track, or some place, you can see what it’s capable of? You sir, are VERY talented! Thank you for sharing!!
your radiator size is fine, does not take much to cool it with proper airflow through it. remember the rad sits out front. sitting behind the airbox WITHOUT ducting will cook the engine. also, idle seemed high, should be down around 1100 or so once warm. also, make sure you dont have any vacuum leaks. you do a great job. keep up the good work
Ur left blinker was on most of the time, u need blinker indicators on dash
If you can, get the rev counter from the CBr hooked up. An in line 4 motorcycle engine has almost no torque, only horsepower, that it delivers right up the top of the rev range. Find out where the rev limit is and start changing just before it 😄
Can't wait to see it all painted and sorted a cuple of little thing it's a beast dude 👍
Great build, and pretty good for the first run. Nothing fell off, and it's much better than watching guy's spinning the wheels on their parents lawns.
maybe you could place 2 radiators on the side of the frame , on the part where now the radiator is located below. And a simple upgrade for braking are sintered brake pads
It runs so smooth great job👍
Watching from Philippines ❤️
I got an idea for you, you should put a video screen up on the dash that is removable for your camera on the back so that you can see everything behind you when you're driving. I love the way you built it. Keep up the great work and I can't wait to see what's next. God Bless you and keep safe.🔥💯💪🏼👍👍😘😘✌😊✌
This thing is awesome now build some aluminum body panels!! Awesome build!!
A good rad fan will solve your problem with heat. I would also check the cap seal and make sure you are using the right lbs cap. A catch can would make things less messy and would allow coolant to push out and be sucked back in on its own.
Very cool! Can not wait to see more. Might want to see if you have a go cart track near you.
Everything looks solid and it tracks nice and clean, but the turning radius looks like it needs improving as that hard right uphill seemed to demonstrate.
Make a air duct, add a fan and lower the idle speed.. that will fix the over heating problem.
If you do choose to swap the motor make sure you will be able to make it street legal.
And if you are keeping those front rims do it black with red trim to match them