Next Best Thing To A Dyno-DIY Engine Run Stand
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- Опубліковано 4 бер 2022
- This home built engine run stand is the perfect thing for people who build an engine or two a year, or obsessive perpetual tinkerers like us.
Here's a tour of one we borrowed from a buddy to run in the Junkyard Jet's 360 Magnum.
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This guy gets it. Straight to the point in what he's doing. No long television intro BS. Real world one on one. He keeps it simple this is what most people get. Self included even tho I'm old as dirt
Couldn't agree more. Especially about the intro thing
BAM! and gone....love it!!!
@My Pronoun is WTF .....i dont need to see any more...so i dont subscribe. simple
@@jerryhatrick5860 ......when you see something that WORKS and 'splain it to us....thats bad??? NAH....run along
I think, a vacuum gauge could be handy as well, but this is really well made.
When teaching at Zephyrhills HS, Wayne Reutimann built one very similar for us to use on fresh built engines. We used the headers off a sprint car so as not to disturb the English and Reading classes! Great ideas come to all of us!
I went there too. Small world. Never took automotive shop, unfortunately.
You can start and run your engine right on the engine stand you use for assembly, I have been doing it for 35yrs!
I've cranked them on a cherry picker several times
You must not have built stout motors in those 35 years then, my 408 would tip the stand over the movement it fired lmao
@@ArthurSperotto what does the southeast of the motor have to do with it? Does your motor somehow have a ton of extra torque at idle?
@@ArthurSperotto Well, the 408 ci engine I built where for 90's stangs and bronco's used the 351w block .030+, and a 4" stroke 400M crank machined to fit the block, probe forged pistons, Edl. aluminum RPM heads w/matching truck intake, upgraded to calibrated mass af sensor and matching injectors. The Ford engines use the bell housing to mount the starter, so an engine stand was not going to work, I just built the engines, then installed and ran them in the vehicles with 110 percent success! Im a GM guy, but I really like the sb Ford 408 combos!
Cold War Motors gave you a shout out today for the JB Weld fix. I'd love to see you guys sit down and talking. How about a livestream with you and Scott?
My brother and I built basically the same thing for our circle track and figure 8 cars. Real time saver, totally worth the time to assemble!
Thanks again for your work. I'm still a magazine mechanic that has struggled through water pumps, oil sending units, fuel pumps, gas tank R/R, radiator and 4 wheel drive hubs, brakes and such. So I really enjoy your videos. I am driving a 77 Jimmy but my heart belongs to my 68 Charger that's in my garage right now. Be safe my friend.
A large catch pan on the bottom would be nice in case of a leak or when unhooking coolant lines.
and Harbor Freight has the gauge package (minus tach) for like $18 or so.
When I escape from Canada someday I would love to stop by your shop and say hello. Not many mechanics up here still wrenching on stuff with carburettors these days.
I had 1 that was really low buck from a roached out Fox body .Just the sub frame with the section of the unibody frame rails forward to the core support that mounted the radiator and battery tray . I kept just the wiring for the ECM , engine , alt and fuel pump along with the fuel tank and lines . Was really good for start up and run in . Did the bottom end and front cover stuff on the engine stand and finished up the rest at a comfortable height on the floor unlike leaning over and under the car . very visible to see if there are any leaks . Then just drop it into the car
I was hoping to see the dyno side, I’ve made a similar stand at home, but the next thing I want to do it make some type of hydraulic setup to load the engine, so I can run an engine and load it to around 25% load
Most engine dynos are basically just water pumps with some sensors and the ability to control how hard the pump loads the engine.
You could basically mimic the setup with a standard water pump and a tank of water. Since you’re not looking for full load, control, or actual power measurement it wouldn’t need any of the extra valves or sensors. Just would need to find the right size pump to provide the right load at whatever rpm and then figure out how to couple them together.
Great idea! Thanks for sharing this with us. We really do need more people like Uncle Tony and the gang!
Made a stand very similar back in 2009, ran my engine in and set carb and timing. 406 sbc with alum heads and Roller cam. So glad I ran it on stand first. I used Keith black silvalite pistons. They use a raised top ring. They give you a directions sheet that told you to use so many thousands of Ring gap for so many inches of engine bore. Mine were set exactly to spec. After about 20 minutes of run time the engine started to miss. Apparently the instructions were not for that particular set of pistons and did not account for the extra heat in the raised ring and it broke half of the top Number 1 piston off. It was bad enough having to pull the head off and the pan on the engine stand. Had I installed the engine first it would’ve been a lot more work. I’m sure with proper gap those pistons would of been fine. But I ended up changing all of them to a set a speed pro forged units in stead of the silvalites that were Hypereutectic. It was unfortunate but this is a great example of why using a run stand such as Tony outlined in this video is a great idea. BTW, that engine made 538hp at 6200 rpm when complete. My local machine shop said people ran hypereutectic in 500 hp units all the time with no issues. That may be true but I’ll never do it again.
As a block machinist for a lot of years I had run across problems with hypereutectic pistons as well. We had two if not three piston failures where I was employed. (back in 2000-2002) I finally did a block with 'supposedly' the correct ring end gap but I had also plate honed the cylinder bores to a full .0055 piston the cylinder clearance and that fixed the problem! BTW; I never used any of those pistons for myself either.
I took one of those pistons out of the box and asked why the ring gap spacing ? Stability ? Heat dissipation ?
Haven't had any problems.
Man, I feel your pain! Nothing worse than firing up a fresh engine and having to pull it back out!
I also feel your pain on the hypereutectics. First set I ever used galled up against the cylinder wall within one week. Piston to wall clearance was spot on.
I'd keep the design but make the engine stand detachable so you can build your engine and roll it up and bolt it to the run stand
I know of someone taking the front half of a car without any fenders or hood and using it to run the engine on for cam break in and adjustments.It only works for one brand of motor unless modified for others but the mechanical gauges monitor the vitals and can b installed in very little time and moved around if the suspension is still on the frame
Yep I made one too using a modified engine stand, Very simple to build and great thing to have with a new engine build! Wish I could post a picture of it here.
Put a picture or a short video on your one UA-cam and share the link with us.
Like this. ua-cam.com/video/85Av-SZBmbA/v-deo.html
you can upload pictures on imgur and post the link here
I have my own engine test stand under construction as we speak. It is a 1975 Camaro front sub frame. All the steering and suspension has been removed. It keeps the factory engine mounts, and I cut up a engine stand to just the vertical part and the head. It is adjustable up and down and fore and aft. I welded in a rear cross member to support the rear, and shortened the rear portion about 16 inches. I can also bolt on and extension, If I want to add a transmission, even after shortening it, if necessary. I mounted a removable s-10 radiator, and auxiliary electric fan. I can test everything from the cooling fan to the flex plate. I got the idea from Chevrolet Performance displays. I am almost finished, and any engine I install in any car MUST run thru the stand first. I can't wait to break in my first flat tappet cam...OUTSIDE OF THE CAR. Your video gave me a few ideas on how to finish mine.
Awesome! Another example of basic DIY enginuity. I could see doing like Uncle T said and have the engine stand detachable.
Uncle Tony you so crazy "good noise " I love it
6:45 having nice quiet mufflers helps hear ticks from the shitty lifters we get nowadays.
I've heard dudes say if I had mufflers on it I woulda heard that rod knock and mighta been able to save it.
building one of these has been on my list for a couple years now. i want to be able to wheel it out of my garage and break in a fresh engine at 6am on a sunday
I have been planning my design for this very thing. If you work with engines it's almost a must have.
Everything would be better if more people were like you!
Minus the cigarette 🚬😄
I've been thinking of building my own to test and work on my engines on.
Great video Tony
Thanks for covering the run stand. I'm getting ready to build one myself. Gave me some good ideas my plans were way off. Going with your stand roll in method. The other thing is Dallas's dash for stand. Looking to make mine so doesn't take up much room. Always be safe in your travels and Take Care.
Square body stuff has an engine run stand that is 2 separate pieces. Use your stand has stand off for engine mounts and a separate stand that has the gauges tank battery rad that ya just roll them together and boom running
When I did my apprenticeship in the 80's, the college I went to had multiple engines of all makes of engines on run stands. Nothing new to me! 😁
EDIT: If you make a sturdy square box frame with adjustable engine mount points, with a control panel of gauges, ignition switch, rad, battery, etc. You can mount any engine you want and run it.
Love it. You're the man Uncle Tony
The clean wiring job is the best part
Always enjoy the tinkering ,for the blue collar guys ,not the sponsored guys who get everything like a proffesional made engine run stand ,painted ,aluminum dash bezel ,but no ,I appreciate your channel and know how Uncle Tony .. btw I do exactly this stuff in a way smaller shop , thx again
Good Looking Engine run stand!!
Been helping bro to build him one fer same purpose we have tried to make User Friendly to be used with any engine even though he's a blue oval guy . Hahaha pray fer he can't help it I do that je will See tha Light one day !!!
Keep up tha Good work n Grrreat Advice!!!!
Thank you fer passing it Forward!!!!
Thanks for sharing Uncle Tony. Looks like something I need to build myself!
Really cool Tony, be waiting to see the new motor run
Hope you have a 360 magnum specific flywheel, balance issues ya know.
You can use the original flexplate and torque converter too.
It is a McLeod LA flywheel with a magnum weight on it to correct the balance. No problems there.
cool tony!that first start must be pure music
Engine looks great
The Mopar engine test stand version--drop the K frame and everything on it :)
I was just thinking of building one of these. I had the same thought as you about being able to mount a regular engine stand to it. I think I have it figured out. Thanks.
Wouldn't change a thing ,removable engine stand would weaken the structure. Excellent work Dallas 😁👍
Dude, I can fabricate anything..... A horseshoe-frame where an engine stand can complete the square; simple project.
@@Chuck_Carolina Right! that way if somebody needs to borrow it, they need your stand too!
Necessity is the mother of invention. Spare parts and time is the father of self made tools.
Cheap Chinese tools are the cousin of necessity.
You won't believe this. But they are making dynos now that will bolt to front of a engine with a simple magnetic pick up. Just like a crank trigger. It will give you a read out for the ability to accelerate. We have used the prototype and compared it the the dyno. It's within 5% of both hp/torque. Price is around $1000 once it clears the pat. Office. It's made by the same company making the axle drive dynos.
The detachable part would be a game changer, From the normal typical stand (or a custom one made for it, same style ect) right slide into this stand setup, bolt it a double places maybe and voila.Would make for quick fixing if need be. Or just more maneuverable. Awesome.
I've been running engines that i rebuilt on the stand since the first time I had a camshaft go flat while breaking it in.
Seems like a great tool to have if you build engines frequently Tony. Nice set-up
My dad built something similar to this. He does engine break in this way
Tony, I like the idea of the removable engine stand. Good thinking.
I'm building one right now. Wanted one for a while.
Thanks Unc❤👍!
Nothing better in life. I am putting pushrods into an 8.3l Cummins while watching this video.
Hey Tony,
Tim here, we have a similar deal at my shop....its geared twds Ford, but we made adapters for GM..... we've built, and run a 390 FE on it, but if we want SBC, we just change out the mounts, SUPER usefull.....nice vid, yep, inginuity at its best!!.....great stuff!!
I just built a homemade inertia dyno from a 1 ton dually axle. I will be tuning my turbo big block mustang on here in the next few weeks!
Definitely want to see that engine run.
A thing of BEAUTY!
Great video Visio. Pity u didn't include the iconic clip from over ten years ago showing one on the test stand boosting hard, then the lights go out and the damn thing glows in the dark from the red hot exhaust manifold. Even so, the views on this clip will be in the mills in no time.
Good stuff Dallas!
I've had my design for one on the chaulk board for a while now and have most everything to do it just haven't got to it yet. I thought about using an engine stand but I think it puts the motor up too high...I want it around waist/stomach level. I like Mr Hevychevy's he integrated his into a small trailer.
Good points 👍
There's little point in making the stand detachable unless you were only doing head work, which I'm guessing wouldn't be sufficient to warrant pulling the engine, at least I don't. You need the bellhousing to mount the starter motor, but you can't run the bellhousing and pull the flywheel and crank.
AS ALWAYS, TONY, HELL YEAH!!!
good info!
Oh man! I've been thinking about this...you read my mind sometimes....
Nice set up
I like it! You would just have a few kits to work with other engines, super genius!
Good deal, Uncle Tony, Hello Aunt Kathy, I enjoyed the video!
I am ditching my project and building a engine run stand
I like that it works for him, but there is a bunch of unnecessary bulk there. I have been using just a cheap engine stand that I exchanged a few pieces of square tubing on and added an old trailer hitch that was loose in a junkyard and a couple of pieces of junk tubing from my scrap pile. Bought a starter plate on ebay and cut a converter down to use the starting ring. I'd attach a pic if I could, but it's very simple to make. I can still use the engine stand to build engines exactly as it was meant to and convert it to a start stand in a few minutes. A radiator isn't even needed as you can run your garden hose to the engine and let it exhaust onto the ground. So yeah, his works, but I damn sure don't have the room to store that monster and I'd kill myself tripping over that crazy frame. I have a 440 on the stand right now. Almost ready to be fired up. Matter of fact, I just added my simple stand to the UTG page on You tube if you are interested..
HOWdy U-T-G,
I made one closer to the ground for my AMC / JEEP Engines
it used to amaze my GARAGE Buddies :-) LOL
COOP
...
I like it!
A stand that takes up as much floor space as half a Dodge St. Regis. Not practical for the average guy with a two car garage. Love the Grade 2 bolts throughout.
Tony can you weld some MOPAR flanges onto the other end of those glass pack mufflers?
C body front stub works great for this.
Very Cool👍
Thats cool as hell.
Cool !
Setting valve lash would be a treat!
Add a fire suppression system with a panic button
6:35 “….but that’s okay it’s good noise”.
It an 8 cylinder orchestra!!!! Heck yeah it’s good music!!!
Nice
Nice if you have room for it. So many nice things I have no room for. I really need a bigger garage, preferably with a grease pit.
CULT LEADER UTG!!!
Looks good Tony, only thing I would change is bringing the radiator and fans up level with the engine so the fan will blow the cooled air over the engine
"Cooled air" ??????????????
Radiators cool the water by heating the air.
Love it! I wanna hear her sing.....
Nice! I would like to build one of those, but don't have the room to store it
Have you, or has anyone built your suggested modification? If so, I'd love to see it. I think I'm going to do it. If you have any more suggestions, please let me know. I'm about to rebuild a couple of 350s from a boat.
I've got a transom cut out from a boat that I'm rigging up to test run engines
Went all out but forgot the wire loom.
It looks almost medical, like keeping a patient's heart alive outside of the body. Very cool! If I need a heart transplant, I'm calling Tony!
I've been thinking about doing this for decades. I'll prolly never get round to doing it.
But why the threaded rod and spacers? Why not just bolt to the bellhousing?
You don't need the radiator and fan. A 55 gallon drum would be better. Leave the top of the drum open and only use water. Once the water in the drum reaches 212 degrees it can't get any hotter. The water boils and the heat is taken away in the steam vapor. The intake hose is simply dropped in from the open top of the drum to the bottom of it. Hot water from the engine returning to the drum is held above the water level in the drum so it can be observed for proper thermostat operation and any contamination being washed out of the engine cooling passages as it's running. Because you only use plain water you may drain the tank with a garden hose outside on the ground once finished after the water has cooled.
Has marine applications as well
aka my yanmar diesels. Just add ….. hose
And that those stands … roll
That green is really growing on me.
Dude from graveyard cars has been using one of these for mopars forever.
Cool but One thing I never liked about the run stands is that it’s risky to run fresh engine without any load to seat the rings. Now, should someone adapt a disk brake rotor and caliper to the crank to enable a certain amount of drag to seat the rings….now you’re on to something. Great videos!
Ever broke in and tuned an engine off a chain off a tree?
I done a lot like that, lol!
"but it is a good noise" I had to laugh.
The engine seems very high up and with that big base, it seems hard to reach the engine.
It may be different in person but from here it seems very hard to do something like set the valve lash?
Oh, I wish I had the space. If something is wrong on a build, it likely shows up during break in. I know the aggravation of pulling a motor [again].
When are you going to fire the 360 mag up?
So much room for activities! LOL
next vid: UTG builds an engine test stand! w/Broomstick DYNO! or something... lol