Throttle Position Sensor Replacement - 2001 Dodge Ram 1500
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- Опубліковано 6 бер 2015
- In this video, I demonstrate the steps required to replace the throttle position sensor in my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 5.9L Magnum engine.
I am not a professional mechanic, and my videos are not intended to offer professional advice. Always reference your vehicle's service manual for official information, and please do not attempt any repair that you are not comfortable doing.
Thanks for watching! - Авто та транспорт
wow. i was watching before without sound and was confused why he took so long to get it replaced. now that i watched with sound i know exactly why. he gives extremely in depth information about what he is doing and why. and really spells it out. well now im glad i rewatched it. not that i really needed to, but now i have all this extra information about it. its good to learn a thing or two
This was an awesome video presentation that made it very clear on how and what to do to replace the TPS on my 01 Ram 1500!
Thanks! I'm glad you found this helpful!
I enjoy your videos, i did my plenum with the Hughes kit after watching your video, your truck needs a cold air intake and throttle body spacer, it made a difference on my ram
That is awesome to hear! I'm really glad you found this series helpful...thanks for watching!
This video helped me installed the TPS switch correctly. Idle is smoother, stays that way and the throttle is more responsive. Thanks Matt! A++++ Video.
Thanks for the great video. I changed my sensor and the difference was incredible. My truck was previously boggy and I didn't want to take it on the freeway. After this easy fix the truck's power returned.
That's awesome to hear! Great work, and thanks for watching!
hangwithdoug do you have any code? Or just replace sensor.?
My '03 RAM 2500 CTD got a check engine code 2122, which is the TPS. I'm hoping my TPS is right there too. I got the truck with 79,500 miles and it's now at 310k. Everything under the hood besides the air cleaner, injectors and batteries are original. I love this truck. Good video.
Great video, this helped out tremendously.
Hi Matt. Thanks for the idea on the Throttle Valve Cable. I will look into that and and I am going to also check out my TPS as well. I really like my V10. It has 165,000 miles on it and I might add one pint of oil in 5,000 miles. I think it has a small seep on the top rear of the valve cover. I really like the power and quiet ease of highway driving at any speed and with any load that I have hauled with it. Thanks again Matt and I will let you know what I find out.
Awesome - I bet that V10 really does pull well. My V8 360 is getting a little "long in the tooth" and definitely doesn't have the pep that it used to. I suspect that at least one of my heads is probably cracked, as that seems to be a common issue with these motors, and the last time I did a compression test, one cylinder was noticeably lower than the others. At this point I really can't justify spending the money to have the engine overhauled, so I'll continue driving it until it gives out on me for good. Hopefully I can get a few more years out of it.
Good luck with your troubleshooting. Please do report back if you figure it out - you never know who else might be battling the same issue and could stumble across your advice.
My 96 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 5.9 has over 210,000 miles, not abused, but hard working pulling trailers loaded with bales, tractors etc. and is still running strong. Mileage has dropped some from when it was new (18mpg), but still a strong runner and uses no oil. I only hope my 2014 Ram 1500 with the Hemi last near as long with no problems.
Excellent video. Thank you.
nice video Matt Payne this i think will be the next thing i try due to it being a cheap part an not bad to put a new one in since i have 210k miles on it. i read threw the comments ihave some extra info. first if the computer/PCM is out in the truck the odomator spot will read No Bus which means your computer is fried i know replaced mine twice in 6 months time. If this is the case unhook the negative cable for about 5 min it will rest the computer enough for you to get somewhere safe if left on side of the road ( i know this cause it happen to me in winter). As for truck not starting the coil pack could be going out its a fast fix for only $25 2 bolts an 2 wires easy 5 min fix i know ive gone threw 2 of them also if the cap an rotor get way to bad it will not allow the truck to start either. I hope some of this added info could be helpful to someone down the road.
Well done- the tp sensor is quite easy to test even with a DMM. Sticking throttle cable felt at the pedal most times in my experience is a dirty throttle bore. Your scan tools live data should display the lack of power thru your fuel trims. Look forward to your findings.
Steve Rob Thanks Steve! I had the air filter housing off not too long ago, and the throttle looked pretty clean at that time, but that is a great point - I should check it again to see if it's gummed up. I've tried to "capture" the performance issue with some data logging on my scan tool, but so far I've yet to come up with anything definitive....though, I'm far from a professional, so the answer may be right in front of my face and I just haven't seen it.
I'll keep track of my fuel economy and see what happens...but I can say that my first test drive after replacing the TPS seemed to indicate that the truck was driving much better. The throttle response was noticeably better...so perhaps the old TPS had some sort of lag in its signal.
Thanks for watching!
good point, mine dont have a gasket either. thats is strange, they installed it with out one?
Informative video, great job. Question, I had some squirrels climb up into my carb area and chewed right through that TPS wires. right up next to the pigtail connector. Looking at some new pigtails, they all seem to come with various colored wires. What are the colors of the wires on this 01 Ram you worked on?
Does anyone know if the TPS needs calibrating after installation on a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7
I just got done watching the whole video I am very curious if it gave you any more horsepower???
Have you changed the crank shaft sensor?
hey, matt i been following. great videos i did the plenum gasket repair following your video. helped alot. but now truck started but dies when i give gas or push the pedal. so, i am thinking it may be this or iac. my truck is old but it ran fine before hand. it did have the hard start of just cranking before but i drove it for a week and it was good. then i did the gasket repair and it started again but worse. just curious on thoughts if i reset the computer starts up once or so
Check your air idle control valve, clean it up. And maybe tune up(sparks plug and ignition coil and distributor cap
did you check it with an om meter? before you replaced it.you need to know what what the oms value is.
How do you replace the clip and wires that clip into the Sencor in the throttle body sensor
did changing the trottle sensor solve the problem? i have a 1996 dodge 5.9 . the trottle body sounds like its taken in alot of air. i cant find the source of the problem .the truck starts and idls but when i try to accelerate the air overtakes and it dies. gas peddle is almost impossible to push , or tries to resist acc.
Check your air control valve first. Pull it out and clean it with carb cleaner. Make sure the throttle linkage is in the correct position and unobstructed. Also check the gasket on the plate at the bottom of the kegger intake (not between the intake and the block) A Hughes intake will fix this. Totally worth the money!
has anyone tried replacing tha cat converter?
Did that fix the power issue?
Need help... I swapped a 5.9 out of my truck and put a different 5.9 in it. It will start but will die after about 4 secs. Can't figure out why it won't stay running.. help
Thank you.
Whats the brand
Man do you have any idea on why my truck would run for 2 days perfectly fine and then it won’t start or nothing but it will turnover and then die immediately
Did you ever happen to figure out what was wrong since the sensor wasnt the issue?
mine was doing something very similar turns out it was low fuel pressure trying to go into passing gear and fall on its face or at like it was hitting the rev limiter replace fuel pump no more problem
Thanks for your input! I have been very suspicious if that could be part or all of my issue as well. I have checked the fuel pressure in the past at idle, but have never had the means to check pressure under load. I may have to dig into this a little bit more though...my truck is getting weaker and weaker.
Thanks for watching!
What was wrong and did this fix it?
Was that the cure?
do you have any idea where the cam sensor is on a 99 3.9 Magnum it coded bad and the genius at the parts store can sell me the part but can't tell me where it is
Richard, I'm sorry for the delayed response - hopefully you have already solved your issue - but the camshaft position sensor should be located in the distributor. Click on the link below to see a screen capture from the factory service manual about removing the cam sensor. Also, you can download the complete factory service manual from the link in the "About" tab of my UA-cam page.
www.brinkleys.org/users/tsl/Files/Dodge%20Ram%20Camshaft%20Position%20Sensor%20Removal.png
I hope this helps!
Hey I found it but turns out that the guys at the parts place. let's just call it O really auto parts were almost no help so it took me a while but I figured it out after replacing the cam sensor crank sensor throttle position sensor I found out it was my ecm parts dick was going to charge me 400 bucks for one but I found a place on eBay that rebuilds them for 125 bucks was a pain but I got it just took a little blood sweat and beers... and twice as much money as needed " I geuss no education is free" thanks lol
Thanks man my truck seems gas hard to press or proper accelerate plus revs high before shifting. Shifting is smooth otherwise. I’ll keep this updated
Don't disconnect your battery unless your check engine light was on, because why set yourself up to have to go through the drive cycle when no diagnostic code existed/ just unpluf the tps and change it. Repeat, DONT disconnect your battery unless your check engine light was on. Also, note, the tps has nothing to do with how your engine performs when your are driving it at all, because the TPS has only two functions and they are to produce a higher idle on cold engine start up and to raise your idle when you turn your AC on, but has nothing to do with how your engine functions when you are driving
wish I could find the problem with my 2001 5.9 magnum just replaced the plenum gaskets and I still have a idle like miss just runs un even plenty or higher rpm power new iac maybe it is bad changed tps cap and rotor still got it that same problem got me stumped I geuss I will change plugs it has been a couple of years sence maybe that's next
+hamtalker2007 Hmm, yeah that could be any number of things. Have you checked compression? The IAC could be bad like you suggest....that would be the most likely cause. Also, how old are the oxygen sensors?
Let me know if you figure it out. Thanks for watching!
+Matt Payne hey man yeah I think I have maybe pinpointed the problem the bank one o2 sensor got a code p0132 today and I got the sensor I still have to install it but I think that is the problem it was running rich
ever do a fuel sync?
Man I have the same truck but I have a 318 in mine and I was thinking to myself when this truck come off the production floor in 2001 I know it would do donuts I've tried everything to try to get my truck to do a burnout but it just doesn't have the torque anymore and when I'm on the interstate it is pretty hard to get it pass a 100 mph I have to really give it hell so I've been chasing horsepower also I've been asking everyone what can I do to give it more horsepower without spending a fortune I only paid $1, 200 for mine and it come with MagnaFlow exhaust so it sounds mean as hell but it's not
I bet you blew your truck up by now.....
@@jessiethemac2506 yo i was just thinking that 😂 probably has tow mirrors flipped up too
Hi everyone. I have a 1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 with a V10 and an 47RE automatic. I am having an issue with the shifting from each gear going up. If I drive very easy it goes through all gears and into overdrive just fine but if I am pulling a load or rushing the speed it is very slow to shift up into all gears. It revs to over 3000 rpm before it shifts. I have been told that my second gear is out. It is not! I have been told that the sensors were my problem and the only one that was was the ABS on the rear diff. I have changed out the ABS sensor on the rear differential, The Output Shaft Speed Sensor on the tail end of the transfer case, The Governor Shift Solenoid and Shift Sensor in the transmission, The trans filter and adjusted the bands. I checked all vacuum lines for leaks. Today I pulled a 30' fifth wheel just fine (unless I would push it) for 25 miles and half of that was through mountains. Could my problem be my TPS or does anyone have an idea?
Thanks.
Hey Alfred, I'm sorry to hear you're having trouble with your truck. How do you like that V10 engine?
There is a cable that runs between the throttle and the transmission (called the Throttle Valve, or TV, cable) that affects shift points. I would be suspicious of that possibly being your problem. I would suggest downloading the factory service manual from the "About" section of my UA-cam page and then check out Page 21-770 to read about adjusting the cable.
I hope that helps....good luck, and let me know if you figure it out!
My 96 got where it wouldn't shift right and the Dodge garage said it needed the tranny flushed. They did it and it seemed to help for a few thousand miles, then it started up again. I am not much on additives, but the ' tax assessor' said he had the same problem with a Chevy and he put PROLONG Transmission fluid in it and it stopped. SO, I did the same thing and it hasn't missed a shift in over 130,000 miles!! Get it online from the factory for $12!!
I replaced it and It didn't solve the problem for me. Any suggestions?
What issues are you having?
I have a 98 dodge ram 1500 and going down the highway the RPM will fluctuate up and down while keeping even acceleration. Its really weird going up hills. It will go up to 2000 RPM but feels like no power. Im thinking throttle position sensor. My truck has just 5 miles from 280K miles.
Nice 280k! I’m at 226k trucks still strong.
@@jessiethemac2506 mine is at 294K now
How's your truck running now. Mine has been a bit sluggish and even has stalled twice.
Jason Hallen My truck ran better immediately after replacing the TPS...but it was short-lived. I think it had more to do with clearing the PCM by disconnecting the battery than it did with the new TPS. Soon thereafter the truck became sluggish again and has been that way the majority of the time, with the random "good day" mixed in from time to time when the truck would inexplicably run like it was brand new (comparatively). Then, about two weeks ago, it died on me. I had just left work to head home when the transmission suddenly seemed to shift into neutral on its own (at first I thought it was slipping), and then the engine shut off a few seconds later. I coasted to the side of the road, gave it a few minutes, restarted it and put it in gear, and things seemed normal again. So, I tried to limp to a mechanic nearby when it died again and wouldn't start again. Since then I've replaced the ignition coil and crankshaft position sensor to no avail. At this point, it looks like there is either a wiring problem, or the PCM has gone bad. Either way, I have a feeling this is related to my ongoing sluggishness.
I'm waiting to hear back from the mechanic whose shop I had it towed to last week. I couldn't figure the issue out on my own, so I finally threw in the towel and took it to a pro. This guy does good work, but is in business by himself and has a large customer base, so it usually takes him a while to get to your vehicle. Hopefully I'll hear something back from him soon.
If your truck is stalling, I'd check fuel pressure first. It's possible your fuel pump is dying. Beyond that, I guess it's time to start looking at plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor, etc. Maybe check the throttle and give it a good cleaning. Start with the simple stuff and eliminate everything that you can. It's possible it could be a bad crank/cam sensor, too.
Good luck, and thanks for watching!
+Matt Payne I was having issues with my truck shifting funny and having a high idle when my check engine light came on and gave the code for the TPS. I went ahead and changed the TPS, IAC and the MAP sensors. Now my truck runs like a dream! Was the mechanic able to find the issue with your truck?
+Jason Wright Nice work! Isn't it a great feeling when you restore performance? Unfortunately, my truck is still not running, but the mechanic and I both believe the PCM is fried. I'm going to try to replace that in the next week or two and see what happens. I really hope that solves the problem, because the only other thing it could be would be an electrical/wiring problem, which could potentially be impossible to find.
Thanks for watching!
Did you by any chance have a new muffler or tailpipe ' welded on?' I had mine blown twice when it was welded on without unhooking battery and/or PCM!
Did this solve your problem?
Unfortunately, I can't say that I noticed much difference in performance after replacing the TPS.
360?
did you try as hard as possible to make this video as long as possible?
i replaced that on mine two days ago and its still running bad everything electrical is new at this point idk what to do
I'm sorry to hear that! My truck is getting really sluggish, too. Do you have any check engine codes present? I am starting to suspect that my catalytic converter is clogged, and I have a P0420 code, which is for low catalyst efficiency. Either my cat is clogged, is simply no longer effective, or I have some combustion issues going on. I checked compression recently and the numbers were not horrible.
What exactly are the symptoms you're experiencing with your truck? Have you checked the plenum gasket to see if it is leaking?
Matt Payne its had 4 engines put in it in the last 6 months.
check engine light has always been on and lately i havent had time to get it checked out ive been getging home from work late i drove it yesterday and it chokes itself when i give it gas and let off the gas then it died i havent had time to get it checked out it idles bad but like i said it has all electrical basically new and a new fuel pump which it all needed new
Holy crap man, 4 engines?!? Has each engine had the same issues? If so, I'd be highly suspicious of your exhaust system. Have you swapped the engines in yourself, or have you had a shop do the work?
Sorry to hear you're having so many issues.
the original got water in it the second had a bad oil pump and destroyed itself and left me out at 2am i had to push it 2 damn miles no one would stop lol 3rd got water in it and the current one is what i have now and ive only taken out the 3rd one and put the 4th one in myself and a friend
we still have the 3rd one we r gonna over haul it and put in a another truck hopefully
Did you have shifting problems with your bad sensor?
Probably the fule filter
i got mine at rock auto for dodge ram 1500 5.2 and it was only $5.00
What was ur issue with this anyways
If I recall correctly, I was trying to troubleshoot a lack of power. I can't say for certain that replacing the TPS helped significantly, but anecdotally it seemed to help a little bit.
Did this fix your problem?
+BBKlima It seemed to help, but my truck died completely a few months later and I have still not gotten it running. It looks like I have narrowed it down to a bad PCM (computer). I hope to replace that soon and see what happens. If the computer is indeed bad, I have a feeling it was related to a lot of my intermittent performance issues. I think all of the other things I've replaced have certainly helped, but if the PCM was failing, I think it was probably the main source of my problems. I'll post my results once I swap the PCM.
Thanks for watching!
+Matt Payne why are you jumping to a computer issue? do you have spark and fuel? if you do, screw the computer.Check the IAC (Chrysler's like to kill them every two years), MAP and MAF, and lastly just take the throttle body off and clean it. While its off, might as well do the intake gasket. Last ditch effort, check your fuel pressure; it should be 49.2 +/- 5 psi.
+laskalives Thanks for the input, but trust me when I say I'm not jumping straight to a computer problem. When the truck died, I was driving when the transmission suddenly seemed to go into neutral, then about 4-5 seconds later the engine died. I was able to restart it and drive a short distance, but then it did the same thing again and I could not get it to restart this time.
First I checked the fuel pressure, which checked out exactly per spec. Next I checked for power at the coil, and found there was none. Since I already had a replacement crankshaft position sensor that I had been planning to install, I tried that next, but still had no spark. Then I tried a new coil, because my multimeter seemed to be acting up and I wondered if maybe I really did have power to the coil, but that didn't work either. Next I searched for a loose wire or bad ground, but couldn't find anything obvious. I finally had it towed to a mechanic, who has since replaced the camshaft position sensor to no avail. He also jumpered the Auto Shutdown Relay to see if perhaps it was preventing the power from being sent to the coil, but that didn't work either. At this point, we feel we have eliminated all possibilities except for wiring or the PCM. I can get a used PCM for ~$100 and have it reprogrammed for ~$100, so that will likely be my next step. If that doesn't work, I guess it's time to start tracing wiring harnesses. I really hope that's not what ends up being the problem.
Your suggestions to replace the MAP and clean the throttle body are good, but neither of those issues would cause loss of power to the coil. There is no MAF on this truck. I replaced the plenum and intake manifold gaskets, cleaned the IAC and throttle body, and replaced the Throttle Position Sensor all within the past 15 months, so I do not suspect any of those items to be contributing. The distributor cap and rotor and spark plug wires were all replaced in June of 2013, so they should still have life left in them.
I'll definitely report back here if I figure out my issue. Thanks again for the suggestions.
+Matt Payne are your injectors getting the signal to fire?
+laskalives I believe the mechanic working on my truck now was able to confirm an injector pulse from the PCM. Plus, there is a very strong smell of gasoline when the engine is cranked. So, I think the injectors are working properly.
Check your catalytic converter it'll cause that problem for sure
Get a code reader life saver. Mine threw a code for the tps
Wow could you not make it into a 1 minute video
I want the outcome, wtf .
Mark, I honestly can't say that I've noticed a discernible difference since replacing the TPS. The truck is getting more and more sluggish, but unfortunately I think it's probably because my compression is getting weaker and weaker. At this point I've just kind of resigned myself to the fact that the truck is 15 years old and probably needs an engine rebuild (or at least new heads) if I ever want it to run like new again. It does drive fine now though, accelerates smoothly (albeit slowly), and the engine is quiet, so I'll keep driving it for as long as I can.
Thanks for watching.
why u have blue tape on everything
I have a 2001 5.9, 2wd. Definitely a lack of power, especially going up hill. Not only that, but the transmission overheats going up hill, already put a new transmission in it, that was not the problem. Its still weak, and still overheats. Any ideas what it could be?