Sleep Number Wired Remote Control LCD Fix
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2013
- I have a Select Comfort Sleep Number bed with a broken remote control. The remote works except none of the LCD indicators work, only the backlight is functional. I saw another UA-cam video where Greg White repaired his wireless remote with a hair dryer and I applied his fix to see if it would work on my remote. Several comments on his video asked about the wired remote so I thought I would record my process and maybe help someone else out. Many thanks to Mr. White for sharing his fix!
• Repair sleep number (S...
Yes I realize I violated several ESD and electronic safety rules in this video. Be safe and unplug your unit before working on it. Properly ground yourself before working on static sensitive components. You may not be lucky like me. - Навчання та стиль
Posted this comment on Greg’s video too, but I also cannot thank you enough. I inherited my Select Comfort about a year and a half ago. Previous owners upgraded to a new model, said the only problem with the one we got was the screen hadn’t worked in years on the remote. We’ve been going fine by feel, but always wondered what our sleep numbers are (and which remote controlled which side!) - mystery solved. Thank you for this video, all these years later!
Yes, this worked for me!! Advice - let the LCD heat for a full minute from THE RIBBON up, then use a cotton athletic sock or microfiber cloth (something smooth that won't scratch) and PUSH the screen and ribbon back together. After the screen returned to it's neutral shade, I set the hairdryer to cold and blew on the screen while MAINTAINING pressure.
It took several tries, (not long enough the first two tries) but third time every digit came back!!
Thank you for your video, big thumbs up!
I did this and it worked well. In my case, at least, the benefit was *not* from heating the display. It came from heating the ribbon and then pressing down the point where the ribbon makes contact with the LCD until it cooled. It may be that other people have a different experience. But in my case, heating the display tended to make random improvements (or reductions in performance). Heating the ribbon and pressing it down made instant and clear improvement. Also, if you search other videos for repairing LCD displays, the consensus is that the ribbon contacts are coming loose, and need to be heated and re-attached. But let me add to the thanks of others. I appreciate you making this - I finally have numbers again after 5 years of guessing :-)
I can not thank you enough for this information. I thought I was looking at $$$ in repairs.my battery died in the wireless remote control and the display was , well letrs say NOT working correctly.
I followed your instructions and after the second time I let CAREFULLY the display go totally black by heating it uniformly around the entire display. I then let it cool naturally lying in a towel until it was cool to the touch.
I unplugged the pump from the current for 5 minutes. I reassembled the controler and replaced the battery.
I plugged the pump back in and followed the directions below;
1. Resynchronizing the remote control
o 1
Be sure that the plug is in a working outlet.
Make sure the system is plugged in. If it is plugged into an outlet controlled by a switch, or is plugged into a surge protector, make sure those devices are powered on.
o 2
Unplug the cord and plug it in again.
When you are sure that the system has power, unplug the power cord and plug it in again.
o 3
Press any button on the remote control. This should power it on and it should work properly again.
o 4
If the problem is not fixed, unplug it then plug it back in again.
o 5
Press any button to power the remote control on.
o 6
Press the up and down buttons at the same time. This will start a timer, it will count backwards from "10" to "1." Two dashed lines will then appear followed by the code "C1." After you see "C1" let go of both buttons.
o 7
Press both buttons at the same time again and you will see code "1C." Let go of the buttons one last time and your settings should be back to normal and the controller should work properly.
THIS WORKED AND MY BED IS BACK !!!
Thank you so much..... I appreciate your instructions. THEY WORKED FOR ME !!!
NOTE !!!
BE CAREFUL AS NOT TO OVERHEAT THE LCD CRYSTAL DISPLAY or YOU WILL SPEND $$$
Don't rush it, take your time and don't get impatient... Rushing will cost you $$$ Best of results to you....
Mark R.
THANKS! I just happened to run across this video and used this method to rejuvenate a wired remote that has been unreadable and basically unresponsive for 5+ years. Have patience - it took me 2 tries to get it back in operation but IT DOES work.
This is AWESOME! My remote has been dead for probably 8 or 9 of the 10 years we've had this bed. I did have to heat it a few times and did so for a long time the last couple of attempts and did apply some pressure to the LCD and the ribbon connector. Finally back to working.
Took 3 tries, with progress each time, and gradually adding more heat. But success. You saved me $50. Thank you
Both of my controllers were experiencing this problem. In fact, 1 controller wouldn't light up at all as if it wasn't getting power. I tried this fixed multiple times in the span of about 2 hours and while I saw improvements (in only 1 controller) it wasn't completely fixed. I then left it alone for 2 weeks where I just happened to pick up the controllers and noticed that both back lights were in their "standby" dimly light setting. I gave them both a try and both worked perfectly! :) Give this fix a try and don't be frustrated if it doesn't work straight away as it may take a few days. Thank you for the vid and Thank You to Greg White for the original vid! - Sleep Happy!
You are my hero!
My controller has been dead for years and I finally had enough. This worked like a charm, in under 5 minutes, and I look forward to a great night's sleep, no longer guessing what number I'm at, for the foreseeable future.
I tried it! It worked. I had to do one of the remotes twice, but then it fixed it.
Both remote displays are now working perfectly. Thank you.
The cable analysis from Greg White seems to be the correct one. I tried heating the display first, added a little solder to the four pins in back but no joy. Heating the glue and the bottom of the lcd, then pressing it together did work. Thanks for the video!
YEP WORKS!!! Had to heat and cool 4 times on one controller and only 3 times on the other. Used a hair dryer and soft cloth to rub the ribbon and display. Like one other person commented, it seems if you get both the ribbon and the display hot, then a little pressure on both makes it work quicker. Thanks to YOU and Greg we don't have to buy a whole new unit!
I saw Mr. White's video first, and followed it for my WIRED remote as well. Just thought I'd thank you as well for taking the time to do this. Very helpful.
Great job. Worked well focusing mainly on the ribbon cable connection between the circuit board and the display. Got both remotes working in 10 minutes. Extra tip for anyone who has noticed over time that the buttons have gotten harder to press - while you have the unit cracked open, apply some rubbing alcohol to a cotton swab and apply to the silver contacts on the printed circuit board and the black contacts on the rubber key pad. Use the dry end of the cotton swab to clean and dry. Buttons will work like new again.
Hi Patrick! I remember when I used to work as a Bench Tech years ago, in the 90's remote controls of this type, whether it be the remotes for car alarms, or for TV Sets, Cable TV, etc.....that when taken apart had this same setup, with the rubber buttons pressing against the circuit boards just as this is, and as you mention cleaning the circuit board and the rubber pads that make contact with the circuit board with alcohol, well back then we used to use a pencil eraser and rub the circuit board contacts and if the rubber pads appeared dirty or very black, we would clean them also, I think it was with Q-Tip and alcohol.....and then when put back together, usually everything worked just fine once again. But there were instances where the conductive material that was on the inside of the Rubber Buttons, that would contact the PC Board areas that made contact after all of the cleaning didn't work, and the Tech I worked with mentioned that when too much is cleaned off of the Rubber Buttons Tabs that would touch the PC Board contacts, it actually cleaned off the "Conductive Material" that was on them, and then there was nothing to make the contact....was just plain rubber touching the PC Board, so nothing worked. If that happens to anyone, what you can do is, go to your Local Auto Parts Store....Like a Pep Boys, Auto Zone....Advanced Auto Parts, etc.......and look for the Aisle that carries the Repair your Rear Window Defroster of your Car......they make a Kit to repair the Defroster Material that is on your Rear Window inside the Car.....comes with a small glass bottle of conductive material-liquid and a brush that is built into the cap.....this is the same material-liquid that is used inside the Remote Controls.....What you can do is unscrew the Lid of the Bottle, and as you remove the cap, the Brush built onto the cap will be wet with the Conductive Liquid inside the small jar......You just brush that onto the Rubber Buttons/Tabs that you just cleaned with alcohol, and allow it to dry after brushing each Tab.....once it's Dry, then put the Remote Control back together again, and Bingo.....everything should now work just like when New!! It's very easy to do, and will last a long time!!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video fix. These instructions worked for me and I'm thrilled to see my 'number" correctly again.
Thank you - I uploaded a complaint video and I see others with issues. I checked a long time ago and no videos were up back then. Glad people found a fix, but this is for sure an issue and a manufactures defect and not a normal wear & tear defect. Even our sales lady in our mall that sold us the bed said Sleep Number had a large number of defected displays. I just had such a bad customer service experience I said F it and for 2 years we been living without the numbers as our wired set have the Mem, and Fill buttons also and we have two wired remotes. I posted to their FB page my video, your video and Greg's video...obviously an issue and in my opinion a manufactures defect which they should cover. One thing I wish they do is let the store handle issues, our people int he store our very nice heck we just spent $180 on pillows there two days ago and the same lady from 2007 is still there and remembers our remote issue and told me to contact Sleep Number......You might see my posting on their wall if you go to their FB page unless they delete it.
Thanks, this video is still helping folks! Took several tries, what I think worked best was after getting it hot, I squeezed the display, putting my fingers on the far right and left of the display. Kept squeezing until it cooled down, works great now!
It worked for me too. It's been like this for almost 2 years. I can't believe it was fixed with 10 minutes and a hair dryer.Thanks a whole lot. You just have to be careful not to blow the liquid inside the display out of the sealed enclosure with excessive pressure. Slow and easy is the way to go.
Works! Quick and easy. Just heat LCD until black with hairdryer on high heat and then rub with eraser. Saves 50 bucks and took all of 5 minutes.
Thanks for sharing, took 3-4 times heating up with hair dryer, but got better each time and now fully visible. Thanks again!
This video is still helping!! I'm so happy! It took quite a few times but eventually all of the lines came back. Thank you for doing this video!
Worked just fine. Used fingers to manipulate the connection strip until everything lit up. Took a few attempts, but it lives. Amazing. Thanks so much.
Wow its actually worked!! Took one try for left controller and 4 or 5 tries of getting right side completely black and cooling down. Thanks a million !
This works! Have dual wired remotes, did my side 1st in case it broke. Took it easy and had to repeat 3 times. The other side it worked 1st time! Thanks for the help kwik, really appreciate it!
Dude! I don't know if it's going to work for me, but this was the BEST "How to Video," or "Fix It Video" that I've ever seen. Awesome! I've been looking for a replacement remote but can't seem to find an exact match. 'Not sure if a different model would work or not. All the info is ambiguous on the subject. Anyway, I'm going to try your fix. Thank you for sharing it!
Here in Adelaide, Australia, I was told I would have to spend around AUD$350 to replace it with a wireless upgrade seeing my bed is around 8 years old, NOW, I can keep my money, thanks to you, works a treat. ;o)
Took 3 goes, adding more heat each time, as they say, "easy does it". If it goes again, I'll be a bit more aggressive with the heat.
Glad you got it working, Jen! Thanks for sharing your success story!
I had to do this no less than 10 times before it worked on mine! I kid you not. It did finally work though. I was about to give up after watching the other video but kept at it after seeing yours. I agree that it is more pressing in the center than at the ribbon cable. Although that probably doesnt hurt since it is hot at that point anyways. Another thing is to let it cool quiet a bit before trying the screen. It wasnt showing me my right arrow initially. I watched some more of this video while letting it cool more, when I went back and tried the buttons again the arrow showed up. After that I heated it two more times and then my right number came back.
Well, I gave it a try since there was nothing to lose, except a little bit of my time, but a good possibility of a $50+ savings to gain. 'Happy to say that $50 is going toward my, soon-to-be, next order from Omaha Steaks. Not only that but the adjustment to my bed, using a now working remote, greeted me, pain-free, as I awoke from my slumber. Whoever you are, thank you for sharing the video. Awesome!
Thanks for the tip! I went from a display showing nothing to fully restored in under ten minutes. DIY FTW!
It worked for me too. I haven't seen numbers on my controller for years. Thank you so much!
this works, i did it with my wireless remote, the secret is to get the display to get black and then cool, just like new...hairdryer does work!!
Thanks for posting. I also watched Greg's. I followed with exception of after heating to get display black, I applied constant, full pressure on the display only until it cooled, then released. Worked great first time!
I figured it couldn't be any more broken so I tried this and it worked. I don't know how long it will work but it was easy and it started working again. Good fun. Thanks for the help.
Worked for me. Took about 3-4 times. Thank you!
I just did mine I bought my sleep number in 2009 and the display was starting to go out. I think it was a matter of heating up the LCD liquid and got it going. The cable look good and attached. Thanks for the video it worked for me.
This worked perfectly!!! Heated is slowly and after the fourth heating all was well. Thank you and UA-cam.
Thanks for the tips, I used hair dryer, no solder, no unplugging required. Heated display until black then rub until clear and repeat once then test without putting back together with just buttons.
I followed your instructions and a couple others including Greg's and it worked for me too. Thanks for posting your information. Yep mine were the older wired remotes too. Thanks again saved a bunch of money.
Thank you for doing this. Got mine fixed with a hair dryer on high. Took about 4 times to get it all back. Now it works great!
Thanks to you and Mr. white. I fixed mine too. Gotta love youtubers!
Absolutely works. Used a hair dryer. Had to press the connection as well. Thanks for saving me $$$.
Hurray!!! Worked like a charm! Thanks to you and Mr White!!
This worked perfectly! Thank you so much for making this video! Saved me a fair amount of money from sleep number!! Thanks again!!
Well that was definitely worth 10 minutes of my time. I tried heating just the LCD from top down 4 times - no difference. Then I focused on the ribbon cable, going bottom up - all is good! Now that I can actually see the numbers for both sides (wireless remote), turns out they were NOT on the same setting.
thanks, I couldn't get all the segments going but enough to read and understand. Appreciate the help!
MINE IS SADLY WIRELESS....
Kevin Kelly
Beebe, Ar.
501-941-4120
Google it there is a fix for the wireless too.
You have to get it VERY hot with the heat gun and I found rubbing it is what worked to bring the information back. I rubbed it down while it cooled with a towel. In other good news posting my video to FB on their page has them stepping up and mailing me a new unit. Also good news, the circuit board in my dual wired remote unit is the same as the wireless it has the extra left and right buttons. Plus I noticed on my display there is a battery icon...they used the same board in their controllers.
Great video. I had to heat mine 4 times and get the screen completely black but then it worked great. Thanks for sharing
whoa baby.... got a free sleep number, had a broken LCD screen.... I followed this tutorial and the other guys and between the two its all fixed up... thanks a bunch!!!! It took five tries to figure out that the ribbon was pulled out... i pushed it back in using the end of a soft tooth brush.... I think it was a combo of locked up screen and a loose ribbon
Hey works like a champ on mine thanks very much for the post I wish sleep number would stand behind our products a little better but at least the displays working on mine now hopefully I get another five years out of this.
Thanks for this, I had to do 4 heat ups, and unplug the pump for a reset. Works great now.
Hurray. I can see my numbers again. Took a few tries to get it to work. I used a paint peeler gun. Was really careful not to overheat the display. Just saved a bunch of money by fixing it myself.
What did we do before the Internet and UA-cam?
well this worked fantastically with a wireless remote. had to heat it up 3 times, and wipe it down, and presto problem solved and $200 saved.
Thanks! Both controllers on our queen sized bed had problems and one display didn't work at all. I had to heat one of the 6 or 7 times to get it to work, the other one only 3 or 4 times. They both work like new now.
Tried with just heat several times but did not clear up totally till applying slight pressure while still dark. Great post!!!!
Worked on both on my controllers after heating and cooling 10-15 times. Rubbing the crystal from perimeter to center I think helped manipulate the crystal fluid toward the display area. Totally weird how this actually worked.
Hey, thanks for the video. I watched the one from Mr White also but like you said it is not about the ribbon it's the liquid crystal. It took me about 6 tries. I have a heat gun also and was being careful like you said. Our controller display is like new again with all segments showing, thanks.
Working for me....have done it 2X and got enough back working. Solder melts at ~740 degrees I think...so this must be doing something to the crystal display??
My remote reads "DualAir Technology has detected a connectivity error. " I put new batteries in both remotes but they keep reading ...connectivity error. Reference E1 1.4.12B.360" I've checked the hose connections and they are all connected. Please advise!!
Outstanding! Mine works like new again.
Thank you sir... I owe you a beer!
I wish this was my only probably with my remote but it just stopped working last night 😒. So now I don't know what to do
Awesome I was looking for where to buy a new one, but this worked better. Thanks.
Wow thx it worked and i have a new remote now
It worked for me. Checked the remotes the next morning, the display was gone. I don't think I'm going to try heating it again.
I followed the heat and press with an eraser technique on my wired remote and it worked fine.
I did it,and it works. I feel so handy. Thank you so much.
thank you so much for the video! they no longer sell wired remotes so you have to buy wireless remote and pump for $100. this worked perfectly. any word on how long this fix lasted?
Worked Great!! Had to do it about 5 or 6 times. Thank You!!
Thanks so much. You are fabulous! Appreciate your help more than I can say!
Thanks for posting this kwik01. This worked for me, too - saved me some money and solved an ongoing headache associated with my 'broken' controllers.
Worked like a charm - thanks!
This worked great! Thanks for the post!
Worked great just heated till black ..pushed down on connector with tooth brush handle
Awesome, Informative Video! Thanks so much!!
Awesome, Thanks for a quick fix.
I FREAKIN' Love the internet! Wonderful piece of video and help. It took a little longer because I wanted to unplug device each time. That is ok! Take your time. I did it several times for each controller. Yep both had no LCD image and now they do! My thoughts. It's a connection issue obviously. I believe that the heating of the area allows the connecting material(s). This allows you to press things together a little better creating a better contact? No matter it worked great and kwik01 is the man!
Woow! That worked the first time! Thank you!
Excellent video! Did the trick on mine as well! One *IMPORTANT* aspect of the fix from Greg White's video that you neglect to mention is the PRESSING on the ribbon!!! - the heat is only to melt the glue, but then you need to press it back into place. Heating several times _may_ eventually get this effect, but it's done more quickly with the pressing! - took me less time to fix 2 wired remotes than to watch the video!
home thermostats work the same way ,heat the screen and the heat gets them to work.
This worked for me. But after a few tries. At first I was just applying heat until the screen turned black. Then I left the hair dryer on for 30 seconds after the screen went black and that did the trick.
It still doesn't work for me :(. My LCD square piece is not attached to the longer piece. Do u think that is a problem? Any other hints?
If it has come loose, then this is definitely a problem. It will need to be re-attached by soldering the connections. Hopefully it came apart at the 5 pins and not the ribbon cable. If the pins are still there, you just need to re-attach and use a soldering iron to melt the solder.
Thanks it worked for me! Thanks for sharing.
Hey thanks, it worked for me too after about 4 times.
Thanks for posting this
mine needs to be worked on. its the wireless. they are asking $75 for a new remote.
thanks for this,got mine working Cheers!
This really works!
Thanks loads! It took several times, but it seems to be good as new, and new was in the last century! Lol
Thanks It worked for me. 😀
Very nice. I suspected that it was the LCD that was acting up instead of the contacts since only some segments didn't work. Nice deductive reasoning on your part. So the LCD crystals (since that's what the C is) need to be cycled through a heat and cool cycle.
Now I want to know what those two mystery contacts are on the bottom of the remote- the ones that have buttons but don't show on the front of the remote.
the two contacts are for a different remote. it seems that they use the same circuit and LCD for all the remotes. mine had those contacts (memory and fill are the buttons) but does not have a right and left button (but has the contacts on the circuit board.
+Michael Scarangella Ahh. I figured it was for other options not available for my bed but for the life of me I couldn't think of what they would be. Besides "add air" and "remove air" nothing came to mind. Memory Fill would be cool to set both sides to one setting quickly and easily. I wonder if I can dremmel that hole out and make it a button. Hmmm... I think I need DW to go shopping for the day.