I followed the video and the directions to a T. You claimed the pad didn't last. I scrubbed and polished both lights 4x each and the pad worked well thru the process. The lights now look brand new! I wish I could upload the Pics here for proof.
To anyone watching this there is a mix up at 5:24 where he says the scuf is blue side that's incorrect & I think he didnt realize it. Clarification green=scuff, blue=polish....
Yes, you can use your own sand paper. High grit. 2000 and a 3000 grit paper. Or, just around that level of grit should be just fine with normal wear and tear on everyday Headlamps. If its worse than that, spend a few bucks more for new lamps online if you can.
This is the most realistic, useful review I've seen on this product. Wish I'd seen it before I bought the product. Each product box is really only good enough to treat one headlight, due to the inadequate sanding tool.
This reminds me of acrylic nails, scuffing up part of the acrylic portion of the nail then putting a UV clear coat on the nail to make it clear and shine. I guess since most car headlights are plastic now instead of glass that is essentially what your doing. Your buffing out the thin layer of film coating and reapplying a clear coat. Interesting. Thanks for making the video.
Now that is a bit over a year later, have you seen this car since using the product? How has it held up? I'm just starting to get the headlight haze forming, so figure something light duty will be fine, IF it holds up.
At one point you said the GREEN side was the SCUFF side (3:15) . . . then later you said the BLUE side was the scuff (5:29) . . . also, does not appear that there is enough longevity to the pad to do more than one headlight cover . . . That makes no sense.
I am curious if you have tested Wipe New for trim restoration? It has great reviews for that. It is probably a legitimate complaint that the scuff pads don't last, but it seems that the point of their product is in the coating and it would be easy to get extra sandpaper. Keep up the good work.
so first, thank you for the guide, second i used it on my 2001 honda civic, the headlights were literally yellow... the pad (both sides) lasted both lights 10 minutes per side on each light, and now they look brand new :) works great especially for how cheap it is. one question however how long would you recommend for "Curing Time?" i left my car in the sun for 2 hours is it ok to give the car a hose down?
Pad feels smooth because you sanded the oxidation off,the more you sand the smoother it feels, and your supposed to do both lenses before applying sealer.
Nice video, on sale for $5 right now, thinking of getting, since pad doesnt last, what can i buy to finish scuff/polish process? Sandpapers/other types of pads from home stores? Thnx for help/info
I just tried it, it worked great only dumb me touched the headlight after 1 hour with my finger and it left a finger print on the headlight should i leave it like that or pass the wipe again?
I thought he said the scuff side was the green side and the blue was polish is what he says at 4:13 but then at 5:26 he says "the scuff side is the blue by the way". So which one is which??? Lol
In reality, it's only sandpaper that is needed. Not sure what grit the little pad is..Maybe 600 on the start side and then flip to the finish side and it is 1200. But normal wet/dry sandpaper will work in place of that supplied sanding pad.
Is that 3M green 322+ auto mask tape? I'm trying out a weatherproof poly tear tape for rotary sand & buffing. First impression...I like it, claimed water resistant, residue free. Havn't tried 3m green yet.
Brian i subbed to a channel called sweet project cars over at your side of the pond and he did a headlight with a rotary and a 3m pad with some mothers metal polish, think you should have a sneaky peek at their channel mate...rich.
richardkkirk it works! I used a Harbor Freight DA Polisher,Mother's Mag and Aluminum Paste,and 303 UV Protectant. For the DA polisher I used an orange heavy cutting pad,did two passes with the paste and finished it off with the 303! The results were almost new in appearance,not brand spanking new but a noticeable difference!
To the person who posted the comment...both sides scuff...one side comparable to 1000 grit sandpaper, the other 5000 grit. Scrap your comment and do it again.
Apex Detail your poor communication skills is the reason people are confused so it’s your fault. You mention multiple times as “one side” as the “scuff side”. And you also said the other side is a polish pad. Now you’re saying both sides are the scuff side. Get it right!
Patricia McGill doesn’t matter the way he worded things was confusing and improper. No wonder so many people are sitting there scratching their heads. Somebody should learn how to be a better speaker before they attempt to make a video
I’m confused which side is the scuff side. At4:15 you mentioned that green side was scuff side and at 5:30 you said the blue side was the scuff side. I’m not the you tube police I actually bought this product and thought to play your presentation to see the right way to do this !!
I have a few 3M kits at my shop that work well. Sylvania has a great kit as well. link: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0345/0689/products/sylvania_046135387715primary.jpg?v=1484856107
great video again. guess like u always tell us that true correcting doesn't come fast and real work and skill.any1 can dummy up long enough 2 take a pic.
Hello Brian, what is the cloth dipped in that comes in the yellow packet that gives it that shine? Is it some type of UV protectant polymer? And what companies sell that same liquid that gives it that clear coat?
Its saturated in their solution.. whatever it is. It is quite inconsistent, in the fact that sometimes it dries perfectly clear... and other times a little cloudy. I substituted it with this👉🏻raindropsdetailingsupply.com/qp-on-2-0-high-end-coating-100ml/
Apex Detail thanks Brian, yeah because I have heard good and bad from about this product.....I'm glad I got advice from a pro rather than someone who thinks its a great product....again thanks Brian :)
Did it wrong. Ive done 2 cars with one kit, if you follow the simple directions you get a great result. The pad works great, this guy seems to not know how microabrasives work. Youre also supposed to do one smooth pass at the end, not 'scrape the foil for as much as possible' and lather it in. My car is a 2004 subaru that looked way more fogged than this
@@stricknine8623 maybe I wasn't clear enough. Wet sanding PROPERLY. Wet sanding involves constant wetting of the surface AND the pad to remove debris, NOT occasionally spraying it as he does. That's why his pad broke down. That's why he got just okay results. Feel better now that I had to break it for you?
@@ralpht1965 "You had to break it for me" That is a ridiculous statement. Yep there's quite a big difference between "You should always wet sand, which you did not" as opposed to stating that,..you wet sanded but didn't wet the surface often enough. The suface always looked sufficiently wet to me during the video and he talked about adding water periodically. But anyway, This is, in fact, a good product. Using wet or dry 600 grit sand paper to start and 1200 to finish will replace the supplied two sided sanding pad if it wasn't sufficient. I had no issues with the supplied sanding pad wearing out (I didn't expect to) for doing both headlights. Turned out super good !
@@stricknine8623 Google voice really sucks lol. I used the Mother's kit and was satisfied with it, but it didn't include the coating. I had to use other product for that. It lasted about a year. How long has yours lasted?
@@ralpht1965 That "wipe" that is a UV coating. It must have some kind of polymer in it that binds, fills and clarifies the polycarbonate headlight lens. This wipe is really all that is needed that could be considered special. It's really just stage sanding and then using this wipe. Mine has lasted a little over 2 years so far. But they look the same as they did when I first did this. I use 303 UV protectant spray after every wash on those lenses. Seems to be definitely working.
Turned off the video after the second time you called it “New Wipe”. You can’t trust a review if the reviewer doesn’t even know the name of the product.
![Headlight Restoration Review: headlight restore: Rustoleum Wipe New headlight restore review [36]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zZ30PA1hUAQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I followed the video and the directions to a T. You claimed the pad didn't last. I scrubbed and polished both lights 4x each and the pad worked well thru the process. The lights now look brand new! I wish I could upload the Pics here for proof.
To anyone watching this there is a mix up at 5:24 where he says the scuf is blue side that's incorrect & I think he didnt realize it. Clarification green=scuff, blue=polish....
Thank you for the clarification. Funny but before I read the comments I basically said the same rhing
Yes, you can use your own sand paper. High grit. 2000 and a 3000 grit paper. Or, just around that level of grit should be just fine with normal wear and tear on everyday Headlamps. If its worse than that, spend a few bucks more for new lamps online if you can.
This is the most realistic, useful review I've seen on this product. Wish I'd seen it before I bought the product.
Each product box is really only good enough to treat one headlight, due to the inadequate sanding tool.
This reminds me of acrylic nails, scuffing up part of the acrylic portion of the nail then putting a UV clear coat on the nail to make it clear and shine. I guess since most car headlights are plastic now instead of glass that is essentially what your doing. Your buffing out the thin layer of film coating and reapplying a clear coat. Interesting. Thanks for making the video.
would not rinsing help release trapped debris from collecting on the product pad ? nice presentation, thanks ~
Now that is a bit over a year later, have you seen this car since using the product? How has it held up?
I'm just starting to get the headlight haze forming, so figure something light duty will be fine, IF it holds up.
Juss wana ask b4 I start the process do I need a pack separately for each headlight or is 1 enough
At one point you said the GREEN side was the SCUFF side (3:15) . . . then later you said the BLUE side was the scuff (5:29) . . . also, does not appear that there is enough longevity to the pad to do more than one headlight cover . . . That makes no sense.
I am curious if you have tested Wipe New for trim restoration? It has great reviews for that. It is probably a legitimate complaint that the scuff pads don't last, but it seems that the point of their product is in the coating and it would be easy to get extra sandpaper. Keep up the good work.
He sai that the green side is the scuff side but then he flips it over to the scuff side thats blue by the way his words not mine
He used the product wrong then bitched about it. lmao
so first, thank you for the guide, second i used it on my 2001 honda civic, the headlights were literally yellow... the pad (both sides) lasted both lights 10 minutes per side on each light, and now they look brand new :) works great especially for how cheap it is. one question however how long would you recommend for "Curing Time?" i left my car in the sun for 2 hours is it ok to give the car a hose down?
8 months later but i wouldve just got 2 of them since they were only 5
Pad feels smooth because you sanded the oxidation off,the more you sand the smoother it feels, and your supposed to do both lenses before applying sealer.
Nice video, on sale for $5 right now, thinking of getting, since pad doesnt last, what can i buy to finish scuff/polish process? Sandpapers/other types of pads from home stores? Thnx for help/info
Used it on a friend's car.little over a year now worked great still looking great
How so we get inside the lenses where the calcium is built up? Water got inside with calcium build up.
Works great 👍🏼 better than other brands.
Used it on my daily looks amazing
Gave it a shot - watched a youtube video and read directions. Left a dulling haze on headlights that I removed with Meguiars PlasticX.
Iam with ya Mike. I stock the 3M kits personally 👍🏻
is it possible to use your own sand paper if havy sanding is needed? and what grit size you recommend?
2 years later, yes lol. 2000 grit, and a 3000 grit should do it
I just tried it, it worked great only dumb me touched the headlight after 1 hour with my finger and it left a finger print on the headlight should i leave it like that or pass the wipe again?
leave it until it cures...you can then decide if you want to sand out the print...then coat area once again
Apex Detail thank you!
I would say if your headlights are chipping clear then just go in with 1000 grit sandpaper and even it out then use the stuff and polish pad.
I thought he said the scuff side was the green side and the blue was polish is what he says at 4:13 but then at 5:26 he says "the scuff side is the blue by the way". So which one is which??? Lol
In reality, it's only sandpaper that is needed. Not sure what grit the little pad is..Maybe 600 on the start side and then flip to the finish side and it is 1200.
But normal wet/dry sandpaper will work in place of that supplied sanding pad.
Looks like you did this in the garage. I don't have a garage so can I do it outside if it's sunny or no? Thanks :)
Is that 3M green 322+ auto mask tape? I'm trying out a weatherproof poly tear tape for rotary sand & buffing. First impression...I like it, claimed water resistant, residue free. Havn't tried 3m green yet.
SO you may as well spend the extra money on one of the other kits on the shelf.....OR buy two of these kits to have enough "scuff" pad?
Brian i subbed to a channel called sweet project cars over at your side of the pond and he did a headlight with a rotary and a 3m pad with some mothers metal polish, think you should have a sneaky peek at their channel mate...rich.
Found it! I will have a look this evening! Cheers!
richardkkirk it works! I used a Harbor Freight DA Polisher,Mother's Mag and Aluminum Paste,and 303 UV Protectant. For the DA polisher I used an orange heavy cutting pad,did two passes with the paste and finished it off with the 303! The results were almost new in appearance,not brand spanking new but a noticeable difference!
Looks pretty good to me
To the person in the video, you were describing both the green and the blue sides of the pad as the scuff sides. Scrap this video and do it again.
To the person who posted the comment...both sides scuff...one side comparable to 1000 grit sandpaper, the other 5000 grit. Scrap your comment and do it again.
it doesn't matter the package has instructions.
Apex Detail your poor communication skills is the reason people are confused so it’s your fault. You mention multiple times as “one side” as the “scuff side”. And you also said the other side is a polish pad. Now you’re saying both sides are the scuff side. Get it right!
@@AllanEvansOfficial He called the kit 'New Wipe' 3 times too. Nothing like attention to detail.
Patricia McGill doesn’t matter the way he worded things was confusing and improper. No wonder so many people are sitting there scratching their heads. Somebody should learn how to be a better speaker before they attempt to make a video
I’m confused which side is the scuff side. At4:15 you mentioned that green side was scuff side and at 5:30 you said the blue side was the scuff side. I’m not the you tube police I actually bought this product and thought to play your presentation to see the right way to do this !!
you mention this isn't as good as other do it yourself products what do you suggest that might be better
I have a few 3M kits at my shop that work well. Sylvania has a great kit as well.
link: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0345/0689/products/sylvania_046135387715primary.jpg?v=1484856107
he didnt do it right.
great video again. guess like u always tell us that true correcting doesn't come fast and real work and skill.any1 can dummy up long enough 2 take a pic.
If you like, send me your email and I'll send the before, during and after photos of my process.
only enough product for one headlight? Take a front shot with a comparison of both lights.
So let's say I messed up on one headlight and the other came out great, do I wait a day before I try it again?
S0raJr Yes, wait for the protective coat dries completely. Wait a day or 2
Oh ok, thank you for the reply!
Mine still look a little cloudy.... maybe I didn’t get all the brown film off?? I’m going to buy another kit and try again in a few days....
Hello Brian, what is the cloth dipped in that comes in the yellow packet that gives it that shine? Is it some type of UV protectant polymer? And what companies sell that same liquid that gives it that clear coat?
Its saturated in their solution.. whatever it is. It is quite inconsistent, in the fact that sometimes it dries perfectly clear... and other times a little cloudy. I substituted it with this👉🏻raindropsdetailingsupply.com/qp-on-2-0-high-end-coating-100ml/
Apex Detail thanks Brian, yeah because I have heard good and bad from about this product.....I'm glad I got advice from a pro rather than someone who thinks its a great product....again thanks Brian :)
The inconsistency is probably because you made multiple passes with the clear coat cloth. You're only supposed to make a single pass.
the solution is made of 30% actetone and 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol.
@@kaylee1482 are you sure about the solutions ratio?
Did it wrong. Ive done 2 cars with one kit, if you follow the simple directions you get a great result. The pad works great, this guy seems to not know how microabrasives work. Youre also supposed to do one smooth pass at the end, not 'scrape the foil for as much as possible' and lather it in. My car is a 2004 subaru that looked way more fogged than this
Hey Apex Detail, I have a question. Why do you have to tape the surrounding edges?
I want to avoid touching the paint with the sanding block and the finishing clear coat
You should always wet sand, which you did not. That's why your sanding pad broke down.
Actually he DID wet sand. How on earth could you have possibly watched this and missed him spraying it with water numerous times ?
@@stricknine8623 maybe I wasn't clear enough. Wet sanding PROPERLY. Wet sanding involves constant wetting of the surface AND the pad to remove debris, NOT occasionally spraying it as he does. That's why his pad broke down. That's why he got just okay results.
Feel better now that I had to break it for you?
@@ralpht1965
"You had to break it for me"
That is a ridiculous statement.
Yep there's quite a big difference between "You should always wet sand, which you did not" as opposed to stating that,..you wet sanded but didn't wet the surface often enough.
The suface always looked sufficiently wet to me during the video and he talked about adding water periodically.
But anyway, This is, in fact, a good product.
Using wet or dry 600 grit sand paper to start and 1200 to finish will replace the supplied two sided sanding pad if it wasn't sufficient.
I had no issues with the supplied sanding pad wearing out (I didn't expect to) for doing both headlights.
Turned out super good !
@@stricknine8623 Google voice really sucks lol.
I used the Mother's kit and was satisfied with it, but it didn't include the coating. I had to use other product for that. It lasted about a year. How long has yours lasted?
@@ralpht1965
That "wipe" that is a UV coating. It must have some kind of polymer in it that binds, fills and clarifies the polycarbonate headlight lens.
This wipe is really all that is needed that could be considered special. It's really just stage sanding and then using this wipe.
Mine has lasted a little over 2 years so far. But they look the same as they did when I first did this. I use 303 UV protectant spray after every wash on those lenses.
Seems to be definitely working.
What grit is the scuff side?
I have the instructions in front of me. The green side is 2000 grit.
You said the scuff side was the green side then a minute later you said the scuff side was the blue side??
Follow the DIRECTIONS!!!
Turned off the video after the second time you called it “New Wipe”. You can’t trust a review if the reviewer doesn’t even know the name of the product.
scuff side is NOT blue side
At first, you said "the scoff side" was green, then you said, "the scoff" was the blue side
Green is first than blue
You're supposed to be constantly spraying at 2
Thank you ❤️
I would have lift the hood before working on it
Better if it did both headlights. Only $10 though.
Looked good to me, geez man why are you so negative?
This dude completely did this wrong. What a nerd
He did it right, he just said it wrong.
Trashed my head light lens.
Doing it wrong
Lol you don't need to with this kit use masking tape
Actually wipes it at 7:24
That is dumb
Follow the DIRECTIONS !!!