Tom, thank you so much sir. This video is great to the point and it is awesome how you explain in simple in depth "KISS" ENGLISH lol. I sure do appreciate the time you spent making this video. Also, shall I include its nice to build things using Arduino boards and code. The cool thing is the purpose to then use a simple IC with the 555 timer or 2 transistors just rocks man. You rule man. I subscribed and look forward to watching your collection of videos. It is hard to find You Tube videos that are in depth, complete, and real, yes REAL. I appreciate all languages but English is my only language and Thanks for the clear very audible recording of your video. You nailed it sir. Thanks, Retro
Kalmbach Publications has a variety: kalmbachhobbystore.com/search?q=electronics Also look at my Influencer page, there is an old one listed here where I used years ago: www.amazon.com/shop/tomstrainsandthings
Hi I do love the signed flashing and will be adding the same to my layout. I do have a other power soure from a cumpter power pack witch I will be drawing the power from
Like your circuit description. Just the right amount of information to explain the circuit. On the 555 circuit, Is the 22uF cap important? If it is important, does it have to be 22uF or can it be higher or lower? Seems like caps and some resistors (used to hold a positive signal when a transistor doesn't have the right voltage bias) doesn't really matter. If I wished to use either circuit to drive "a lot" of LEDs upwards of 7 per leg, with this circuitry handle the current out of the output legs especially for the 555 circuit? I'm doing something like this with a 555 and running the output (leg 3) to an inverter chip with the thinking the 555 cannot handle the LEDs.
Good video. I have a question though. When soldering IC's how would you recommend doing it? Would you use a socket soldered into the PC board, to receive the IC? Or would you have a way to solder the IC to the PC board? Because you can't put heat to those IC's.
It's best to solder the socket to the board, then push the IC into the socket. I just started doing that with my Nano and Pro Mini's by soldering a header to the board first.
@@TomsTrainsandThings yes. I've started doing the same thing on my live steam scale signals, for the LED's. I took an electronics course in school once, and the instructor drilled it into us about the IC's being so sensitive, in some cases they require a DC soldering iron. That's why I asked, because I might want to make some of these units.
hello there, I've got a question for you ? I have my set up complete I'm wanting to add my sketch on to a circuit board. I'm wanting to just a the board under my crossing pad an only my sencer leads to be extended from the board. basically I want it to be like the older bachmann crossing.
@@TomsTrainsandThings Hi, how you doing ? I'm looking to put one of my crossing sketches on a small pcb board but not sure how to go about it. Just looking for some pointers. I've been all over UA-cam here an can't find anything similar to what I wanna do. Also I want to get rid of some of my wires.
I bought a flashing circuit board, 5v in 5v out adjustable timing rate, normally open and powered closed output for $2:00 from ebay. Why go to all the bother of stuffing around. It's all on ebay.
@@TomsTrainsandThings You are right, I don't have the time to manufacture items like this, plus buying the parts cost more than the whole assembled circuit board.
Tom, thank you so much sir. This video is great to the point and it is awesome how you explain in simple in depth "KISS" ENGLISH lol. I sure do appreciate the time you spent making this video. Also, shall I include its nice to build things using Arduino boards and code. The cool thing is the purpose to then use a simple IC with the 555 timer or 2 transistors just rocks man. You rule man. I subscribed and look forward to watching your collection of videos. It is hard to find You Tube videos that are in depth, complete, and real, yes REAL. I appreciate all languages but English is my only language and Thanks for the clear very audible recording of your video. You nailed it sir. Thanks, Retro
Thank you so muxh Retro
Brings back memories of Peter J. Thorne.
Interesting stuff. I wish I could find a good book with some model railroading electronic projects for beginners.
Kalmbach Publications has a variety: kalmbachhobbystore.com/search?q=electronics
Also look at my Influencer page, there is an old one listed here where I used years ago: www.amazon.com/shop/tomstrainsandthings
Great info, Thank You
Glad it was helpful!
Oh, You are funny to man. Just cool people Tom. Thanks 😆 😆
Thanks! 😃
Hi I do love the signed flashing and will be adding the same to my layout. I do have a other power soure from a cumpter power pack witch I will be drawing the power from
Thank you Doug. It's good to have additional power sources.
Thanks Tom. Looks good.
Thank you Walt
Like your circuit description. Just the right amount of information to explain the circuit. On the 555 circuit, Is the 22uF cap important? If it is important, does it have to be 22uF or can it be higher or lower?
Seems like caps and some resistors (used to hold a positive signal when a transistor doesn't have the right voltage bias) doesn't really matter.
If I wished to use either circuit to drive "a lot" of LEDs upwards of 7 per leg, with this circuitry handle the current out of the output legs especially for the 555 circuit? I'm doing something like this with a 555 and running the output (leg 3) to an inverter chip with the thinking the 555 cannot handle the LEDs.
In one of the examples the cap value determines the speed of the flash. If your requiring a higher amperage, you can ad a transistor to the circuit.
Great info, Thank You for the upload :)
Thank you Jack, my pleasure.
Hi, any code to add the 3rd red steady on led for gate bar tip ?
Good video. I have a question though. When soldering IC's how would you recommend doing it? Would you use a socket soldered into the PC board, to receive the IC? Or would you have a way to solder the IC to the PC board? Because you can't put heat to those IC's.
It's best to solder the socket to the board, then push the IC into the socket. I just started doing that with my Nano and Pro Mini's by soldering a header to the board first.
@@TomsTrainsandThings yes. I've started doing the same thing on my live steam scale signals, for the LED's. I took an electronics course in school once, and the instructor drilled it into us about the IC's being so sensitive, in some cases they require a DC soldering iron. That's why I asked, because I might want to make some of these units.
hello there, I've got a question for you ? I have my set up complete I'm wanting to add my sketch on to a circuit board. I'm wanting to just a the board under my crossing pad an only my sencer leads to be extended from the board.
basically I want it to be like the older bachmann crossing.
How can I help you?
@@TomsTrainsandThings Hi, how you doing ? I'm looking to put one of my crossing sketches on a small pcb board but not sure how to go about it. Just looking for some pointers.
I've been all over UA-cam here an can't find anything similar to what I wanna do.
Also I want to get rid of some of my wires.
What Arduino device do you have connected to your pcb to accept the sketch?
@@TomsTrainsandThings Rite now I'm using a Arduino Uno with a short breadboard.
I have a small green PCB board that's rectangle that I'd like to use.
@@cadillacescalade5428 Send me an email with your details. The sketch will load on the Arduino, but I have no idea what pcb you have
Hi, what about fading ? I have mine set up but wanting a fade instead of basic flash
This Playlist may be helpful: ua-cam.com/play/PLjjhnrIKSTShFFhwZFyxncfIcL0eUYaBb.html
Do you have a video of how to wire a railroad crossing arm with 3 wires
The 3 wires your referring to are most likely the 2 led's I use in this video plus the common ground. What brand & model do you have?
Is there a kit available for purchase?
No, it's a diy project
Have you created a triggering mechanism for these circuits?
You can use the same ethode as in t video: ua-cam.com/video/y_lCIabP4S0/v-deo.html
The flash rate @ 2:37 is the fastest they should be going. Any faster and it just doesn't look right.
That's why it's adjustable
Lots of information here Tom. You lost me at Arduino. Lol. -Mark
I didn't mention Arduino till the end so I guess this sunk in. These are two flashers without using Arduino. lol
What watt resistors do I use?
1/4 watt will do. There's an Amazon link in the description for everything I use in the videos.
Nicely done however the flash rate is too fast they should flash closer to once a second to be prototypical
Thanks, on both examples, the flash rate can be altered by changing the values of the components.
I bought a flashing circuit board, 5v in 5v out adjustable timing rate, normally open and powered closed output for $2:00 from ebay. Why go to all the bother of stuffing around. It's all on ebay.
What fun is that!
@@TomsTrainsandThings You are right, I don't have the time to manufacture items like this, plus buying the parts cost more than the whole assembled circuit board.
To learn how it works not being rude but yes they make blinking led lights and boards it's just the point of learning.
B