The wire guage scales up with the current output. The bigger the output current, the thicker the wire. Another tip with the regular magnet wires: I use a wider soldering tip (like a Hakko D24, for example), melt a big blob of SnPb rossin core soldering alloy and then slowly insert the tip of the magnet wire into the blob. This usually destroys the enamel insulation layer. To get the job done I usually set the soldering tip temperature to 300 degrees Celsius. Anyway, I'd like to thank you for a great video. Always a pleasure to watch your videos!
Don't believe I showed how I built that one, but I have some others I built with the DF Player ua-cam.com/video/r9mPZNo-YvQ/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/CvSN1GUt5ak/v-deo.html
I have purchased many of your sound decoders. But I have many more locomotives for which I cannot afford to purchase your very nice sound decoders at this time. I'm using motor-only decoders in those Loco's which come with lighting circuit. For the headlights on these loco's I have purchased a 3mm 'blinking' LED and a 3mm non-blinking LED both will work on 12 volts. I wire them in parallel and attach them to the headlight output on the motor-only decoder and it works beautifully to simulate a "Mars" light. They work perfectly 'until' the locomotive starts to move and the 'blinking' LED stops working. When I stop the loco the 'blinking' LED start to work again. It would like it very much if you could explain what I need to do get these LED's to work 'blinking' and 'non-blinking', together when the loco is moving. I'm sure there is a simple fix for this problem. Thank you in advance for your help.
I suggest you contact the manufacturer of the decoder you are using or read the instructions that come with it!.. I have no idea what you are using, and how you are trying to wire it in to your decoder. Does your decoder have the capability of driving a mars light, or just a front & rear light? Also, I do not sell sound decoders or anything else. I do instructional videos only!
Geez Tom! You’ll be landing planes once all those 1,000 LED lights are installed. “This is flight 207, I’m having a hard time seeing the runway. I’m thinking of landing by a bridge next to a... welder? Is that guy welding?”
Thanks Frank, but right now I have enough LED's to last me a few years of projects. There is no trade war, that's all hype. No increase in prices and even more shipments now!
I'm starting my lighting now thank you
Glad to help. Good luck
The wire guage scales up with the current output. The bigger the output current, the thicker the wire.
Another tip with the regular magnet wires: I use a wider soldering tip (like a Hakko D24, for example), melt a big blob of SnPb rossin core soldering alloy and then slowly insert the tip of the magnet wire into the blob. This usually destroys the enamel insulation layer. To get the job done I usually set the soldering tip temperature to 300 degrees Celsius.
Anyway, I'd like to thank you for a great video. Always a pleasure to watch your videos!
Thanks for the info. I guess I didn't have my iron set high enough when I tried it.
Nice Tom! Keep up the good work!
Thanks John
Hi Tom. I'm interested in the board you show at 14:28. Did you do a build on that in a previous video? Thanks, Pete
Don't believe I showed how I built that one, but I have some others I built with the DF Player
ua-cam.com/video/r9mPZNo-YvQ/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/CvSN1GUt5ak/v-deo.html
Thanks for the tips on the wire. Great video.
Glad I could help
That Remington wire with the flux on it is a great idea
Makes life much easier!
I have purchased many of your sound decoders. But I have many more locomotives for which I cannot afford to purchase your very nice sound decoders at this time. I'm using motor-only decoders in those Loco's which come with lighting circuit. For the headlights on these loco's I have purchased a 3mm 'blinking' LED and a 3mm non-blinking LED both will work on 12 volts. I wire them in parallel and attach them to the headlight output on the motor-only decoder and it works beautifully to simulate a "Mars" light. They work perfectly 'until' the locomotive starts to move and the 'blinking' LED stops working. When I stop the loco the 'blinking' LED start to work again. It would like it very much if you could explain what I need to do get these LED's to work 'blinking' and 'non-blinking', together when the loco is moving. I'm sure there is a simple fix for this problem. Thank you in advance for your help.
I suggest you contact the manufacturer of the decoder you are using or read the instructions that come with it!.. I have no idea what you are using, and how you are trying to wire it in to your decoder. Does your decoder have the capability of driving a mars light, or just a front & rear light?
Also, I do not sell sound decoders or anything else. I do instructional videos only!
Thank you! Great tips.
Your welcome
on the nano from elegoo, I found you needed a driver downloaded from them to get them to work on the sketch Once you get that they work great
I THINK IT WAS THE 340 set. You also have to choose old bootloader
@@TomsTrainsandThings that is where I was wrong now got it thanks I do agree they are good elegoo i like the product
Geez Tom! You’ll be landing planes once all those 1,000 LED lights are installed. “This is flight 207, I’m having a hard time seeing the runway. I’m thinking of landing by a bridge next to a... welder? Is that guy welding?”
Did you see that Houston? Luckily these are just small LED's
Just go to Amazon and buy a small spool of magnet wire. Cheaper and easier than destroying a good power adapter.
I guess you didn't watch the entire video where I talk about the Remington wire at 9:04
Try e/bay Tom for mixed LED's £2.69 for 500 approx $3 and free postage from China. Might cost more to USA due to trade war.
Thanks Frank, but right now I have enough LED's to last me a few years of projects. There is no trade war, that's all hype. No increase in prices and even more shipments now!