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Bleeding RS7 Brakes with New Tool (Everyone Needs This)
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- Опубліковано 27 січ 2021
- Bleeding RS7 Brakes with New Tool (Everyone Needs This)
Products and Tools Used
Power Bleeder amzn.to/3qStCjI
Import Billet Adapter amzn.to/3ohBRnD
GM Billet Adapter amzn.to/2NEgW1E
Fluid Catch Bottle amzn.to/3sZUNLh
Torque Wrench amzn.to/3ixt14b
Dewalt Impact amzn.to/392EZQ5
Nitrile Gloves amzn.to/393McPM
Shop Towels amzn.to/3o73wYq
Brake Clean amzn.to/3iyg61z
Rolling Chair amzn.to/2Zx8bt4
Lift amzn.to/39L2psk
After changing the brakes on the Audi RS7 I had a really soft brake pedal. Generally I do the 2 person brake bleeding method and that just wasn't working on this car. I have heard about these power bleeders and decided to buy one and try it out. This power brake bleeder is a must have for anybody who works on cars. Words can not describe how awesome this thing is. I can't wait to try it on all my other cars. Bleeding brakes used to be something I dreaded doing. Now with this it is no longer an issue and allows for a one person brake bleed. I really can't believe how long I have been doing it the old fashion way.
Hit the Comments and let me know what you think.......
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Depending on your year. The Audi service manual advises 29 psi to flush the entire system including the abs pump. Also you start at the closest caliper first according to Audi.
This worked without issue
I like how you said you probably going to glue a magnet to the catcher bottle… I click on the Amazon link and the bottle has a magnet 🧲 on it. Awesome info, thank you!!!
Yeah. New ones do.
Great video, honest, no BS. As a retired engineer I look after about 20-30 cars / trucks regularly and various others as people knock on my door and request help. Audi / VW are always the most fussy when it comes to this procedure I find. My brother has an 2015 A6 (C7 platform) 3.0ltr Allroad model. You are right about the ABS valve by the way! to get this right it should be opened and I don't have the kit to operate that valve. In the end he took it to an agent for a complete fluid change as I was not confident tha I could remove all the old fluid (and air) from the system.
I do have a power bleeder pretty much like yours and the observations I make on what I see here are:
1. Definitely change to quick release fitting, really worth it
2. I have a separate relief valve that I can open to release pressure, you can fit one say from an old compressor or even from a garden sprayer canister, very easy and again worth it.
3. I did a mod to connect a Schrader valve (tyre valve) and hose to connect to a old tyre with the pressure dropped to about 12 / 15 psi. There is enough in the tyre to keep the container at a constant pressure so you don't have to keep checking it.
I have some thoughts on what was going on when you were bleeding the first rear calliper, when the fluid flow was slow and you commented that you felt the bleed screw was almost out. I agree it was slow, what was the pressure at this point? Perhaps it was low maybe? More likely I thought it could be debris restricting the flow at the base of the bleed screw or just inside the calliper at the exit hole potentially, particularly as there was some significant chunks of debris that came out and you have to ask what that was. It was not just dirty fluid or rust (the calliper is alloy and the brake lines these days are pretty rust resistant) could it be part of a degraded rubber component? When you cracked open the front calliper about a quarter of a turn the fluid flowed immediately and free, just how I| would expect.
I also have for many years felt that the bleed screws are actually a weak link in the process of bleeding (on any make). I'll try to explain. The threads are not a good fit in the calliper, not what you would call a close tolerance fit for sure, crack one off and see how you can wiggle the damn thing in the hole! This gives the potential for fluid to pass the threads which is not good and they are not as large in diameter as they used to be nor are they a fine thread either most are metric standard (coarse) pitches. In the UK we generally had 3/8th UNF threaded fittings including bleed screws, they had 7/16th AF hex and were more substantial. Some of the new ones look like they will break if you have to use reasonable force to undo, especially those that have a reduced diameter between the thread and the hexagon.
I've subscribed to your channel, I thought it was well filmed, clear and straightforward, thank you from a retired Brit who can't put the tools away and put his feet up.
Thank you for the comments and response. I appreciate that
Audi Brake System service manual says that for bleeding C8 cars (A6 2019+ and A7 2018+) a preasure of 2 Bar (30PSI) is needed. Mainly it is for bleed ABS unit. So if you have air in the ABS unit then preasure of 1 Bar (15PSI) is not enought to bleed ABS. Also in the service manual there is nothing about car has to have 4 wheels up. First, manual procedure says that you can do it one by one wheel up and only when you plan to use another procedure which involves Vehicle Diagnostic Tester for support bleeding there is need to have 2 front or 2 rear wheels off the ground - depending which axle you bleed.
Definitely would have helped
I just added this to my cart. I recently installed a Crown Big Brake Kit on my Jeep JKU. I used the help of my daughter on the two person bleeding method. I would imagine that I would have a better pedal feel after using this Motive unit.
Thanks man. Good work.
Yeah it is so much better. I can't believe I didn't have one a long time ago
@@TWAMotorsports I also like the idea of adding a magnet on the catch bottle. That would have helped even on my salad dressing catch bottle using my current method. 😀
Very true
I have had that Motive bleeder for 10+ years and it's awesome!!
I agree. Worth every penny
@@TWAMotorsports happy Friday my friend... Cool tutorial on the brake bleeder kit. I'm going to have to purchase this kit when I get to that point on my 94 trans am cause my entire brake system is going to be brand new.. lines and calipers....so basically you don't want to go over 15lbs. Of pressure on a GM vehicle...
Correct
@@TWAMotorsports good Saturday afternoon my friend.. it's too cold in my garage to do any wrenching on my 94 trans am. So I decided to watch some of your trans am videos on my big screen 5k tv. Have a great weekend buddy and be safe out there.. 👍🇺🇲...
@@TWAMotorsports so I'm watching your trans am build videos part 1-21. On my 4k big screen TV and my wife likes your background music....
amazing video so clear, i don't suppose you would consider completing a pressure bleed. I followed a few other tutorials, but the pedals were so spongy lol MK3 TT
I don't do work on other's. Sorry
@TWAMotorsports No, it's okay. I just meant a tutorial, but
I sorted it now. You just have to pump the breaks once the bleed nipple is released to take the small amount of air out the pedle/lines, then it firmed right up thankF
Good deal
Great Job Travis! I have a simpler version of that kit (no gauge) but have never used it yet, now I know how!
Thank you. Yes it is definitely a game changer
@@TWAMotorsports hello, so there is nothing special about it being a vehicle with sensors and what not... because I am used to old BMWs and was afraid to do the procedure but it seems the same. Did you do anything with electronics or putting the car in service mode??
@FirstLast-tx3yj would be nice to put in service mode for rear brakes.
Sometimes like newer GM you need to put a scanner on the car to open the valves on the computer. My dad’s avalanche would not bleed correctly my buddy brought his Snapon scanner and open the valves and it was no problem after that no more soft pedal
Yeah if the abs gets air in it you have to
Maaan. That Motive looks like a life saver. Hell of an idea. I do the two person method all the time and I’d prefer to do this Motive method. I like the fact you can actually stay at each caliper and monitor the bubbles and what that fluid looks like. Hell of a find Trav. What took you so long to get one son lol. Good video man
Thank you. I know. I'm over rubbing 2 sticks together while everyone else walks around with a lighter. Lol
@@TWAMotorsports right on. Hey man I’m possibly getting a c5 frc car and I’m wanting to put c6 zo6 wheels on it like you did. I hear diff things about the sticking out etc... My fbody has welds on it and those are an aggressive fitment and it doesn’t bother me I just don’t like them poking to far. What are your thoughts? yours look pretty damn good. What tire size did you go with on all 4 corners? C5 on c6 zo6 wheels is a hard combo to beat man. Body lines with those wheels are nasty 🤙
I don't remember the size off the top of my head. I went with a specific tire to not stick out as far. Video on it has a link to tires used in description
@@TWAMotorsports ok bro. I’ll check that vid out. Thank you man
On any newer VW or Audi with Electronic parking brakes. You have to go into VCDS or OBDeleven I don’t know if HP tuners does it or not to set it to service mode to release the rear brakes.
That's interesting. Thank you for that information
@@TWAMotorsports no problem 👍
ua-cam.com/video/5H-KThZedz0/v-deo.html
Thank you
R u talking about pads or disc changing ob the back ?
Great job!! Need to get this for my cars (chevy avy, audi a7, and porsche 911) to do and save some money as a DIYer.
Would you suggest jus the basic kit with the car adapters and additional drain bottle?
Yes but with the billet lid. Holds up better
@@TWAMotorsports thanks again !!! Keep up that great work
Thank you. Gonna try
Great video
Thank you
Use compressed air to clean the bleeder when you are done with it, also grease the base of the bleeder it will help to keep the rust off... If you decide to open the bleeder again, clean it first with break clean before opening it....
👍
Do you mean grease the thread of the bleed screw? If you do whilst I can see why it is not advisable as it is possible to introduce into the system some grease, although a small amount I grant you. Nothing should have the potential to introduce a substance that is not the correct fluid into a brake system. As an alternative I would suggest that once the bleed screw is tightened down and cleaned as you suggest then a smear of white waterproof grease on the exposed screw and replace the dust cap. The bleed screws are often zinc plated or even stainless steel so should not suffer as many of those of the past unplated screws were, which rusted like blazes.
Wonder if it would add air to my wife’s brakes... so she stops whining! 🤫🤣😂
Exactly
Amazing
I love this thing
Did you sell the rs7? If so why?
Yes. Wife wanted a tesla
@@TWAMotorsports Thanks for the reply. I'm thinking on getting and rs7 or an s7, but Im still not sure if I want to deal with the engineering mistakes of where they put the timing chains and the failure rate of the guides. Plus the turbo oil screens and pcv failures.
I Would have to run a BG oil/sludge cleaner when I get one.
I do all my own work on my vehicles and would tackle these items myself. Just don't know if this vehicle is worth the headache.
Yeah it is risky
Sure Miss your channel, but everytime I check it out its this Volkswagen. Not interested in VW's.
It's gone now lol
Hi! Do you know if I can do the same on Audi A6 C7 year 2017 ? Does need a diagnostic tool aswell or I can go just like you did? Thank you!
I'm not sure