How To Power Bleed Brakes Using A Motive Power Bleeder
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- Опубліковано 5 чер 2024
- ►Bleeding your brakes or clutch by yourself is generally an impossible task. There isn't any way for you to build pressure in the lines and bleed them unless you're a superhero. However, the Motive Power Bleeder is your solution, allowing you to build pressure in the reservoir simply and handily.
The Motive Power Bleeder attaches directly to your brake or clutch fluid reservoir and keeps it fed with fluid. Then, the built-in pump creates pressure within the bleeder and helps force out the old fluid once you crack open a bleed screw. It eliminates the need for another pair of hands, making fluid changes and bleeds a one-person event. It may seem tricky to operate if you've recently picked up a bleeder, so we're here to help.
Follow along as Mike Hidalgo, FCP Euro's Professional DIY'er, takes you through the process of using a Motive Power Bleeder.
Shop the parts used in this video:
Motive Bleeder (Red Label): www.fcpeuro.com/products/powe...
Motive Bleeder (Black Label): www.fcpeuro.com/products/euro...
Motive Catch Bottles: www.fcpeuro.com/products/catc...
00:00 - Intro
01:58 - How to Use a Power Bleeder To Bleed Your Brakes
09:39 - Wrap-up
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I went to highschool at the same time as mike....I remember him rolling around in a lowered purple e36 lol
I worked at the gay bar with him as dancers. 🎉
@@ttt69420gay car people? Now that's a fucking party
He looks like a lowered purple car type
@@ttt69420I bet all the (good people) were there !
😂
Thank you, very detailed. I will get a pressure system instead of a vacuum system. Shade tree mechanic here, laying on the grass, no lift for the vehicle. 😁
Two things I learned using this this weekend is be careful to make sure the gasket doesn’t get pinched; you won’t know until brake fluid starts spilling all over the floor. Also if you own a mk7 GTI or similar put the cap somewhere where you won’t bump it, or you may spend 2 hours searching your engine bay for the f*cking thing. Learned both of these this weekend! 😂
How many n the world would the gasket get pinched? You mean by tightening the motive cap too tight in your reservoir?
@@AlexisRodriguez-yv6sf maybe pinched is the wrong word, but it definitely got out of place. I did snug it down quite a bit since the service manual for my car recommends bleeding at 29 psi, but just hand tighten
2012 Volvo S80 T6. Swapped the front brakes to the XC60 dual piston calipers with the 336mm rotors. Bleeding the whole system just in time for some vacation trips 🎉
Thanks for a great video detailing a brake fluid flush. Glad you included the tidbits and pitfalls to avoid. Outstanding!
Thank you for watching!
Amazing video. Clean lighting. Steady camera work. Very professional!
Thanks bro you are awesome. I am doing my 2020 WRX tomorrow morning. You helped me out tremendously, and I appreciate it😎👊🤘
PERFECT TOOLS for an easy job. Your VIDEOS are the best and all YOUR TIPS are awesome. Thanks Michael. Love watching all your Tutorials. WIll pick up a set
Love mine. I use it dry when I rotate tires - simple enough to do and top off in between jacking up each corner.
Excellent video
Excellent video instructions!!!
Many of the new Audi's service manual call for approx. 30psi to bleed the brakes. This forces the ABS system valves open otherwise you get no flow to all of the calipers. You can do it with the Motive, you just have to pump it up until the needle goes past the 20psi mark. Even though the manual says 2 Bar (29+ psi), many say a little past 20 psi will work. I had a very slow flow from the rear Calipers on a '14 RS5 at just over 20psi.
Appreciate the tip. On many modern cars you can also see good results with using VCDS or another scan tool to run an ABS bleed, which runs the pumps and clears the valves of old fluid/air.
Finally bought a schwaben bleeder been doing it old school for 20 years I found with 20 psi on my 2015 A3 the fluid came out of the rear bleeder at the smallest slow stream barely visible. Called the ecs tuning about it (sorry fcp) and they had had a bad batch of bleeder supposedly getting new one. But I feel they say 20psi for liability reasons when you use shop air it's typically higher than 29psi.
This tool seems to work well on ABS and non-ABS. GREAT video hope to buy pressure bleeder. Thanks
Thanks! Huge help.
nice tutorial looking very easy to bleed in that style great
Awesome Tech Tip.. Thank You, Mike!!
Thank you for watching!
Great video!
These really are awesome to have. We have multiple cars so I bought the 'quick connects' and redid the hose ends. (Kinda like Air Tool Couplers) helps the hose from twisting up. Motive has cool bits to make the jobs sooo easy. Denatured Alcohol to clean things up when finished.
Does motiv sell the quick connects? Hate having the thing twist up
@@TheBaccaClench Yes, under 'Replacement Parts and Accessories'
I installed a quick connect fittings in the line from the tank to the cap, makes installing easier as the tubing does not get twisted. Have been using this bleeder system for over 10 years.
Sweet, now I don’t need to make any friends just for this
Thank you.
Excellent how to vid 😎👍
Glad you enjoyed it
10/10 video, just in time for my brake flush
Great video, I was cheap so I went ahead and bought the "smotive" version of this device. I am actually really impressed with how feature rich it is however. There was a slight leak when I put it to 10psi ( could hear it but the psi did not decline rapidly). I adjusted the cap a bit and it seems to have gone away.. wondering if the threads on my reservoir are worn.
Thank you my good person.
This was avery good video. Thank you
Thank you for watching!
Thanks!
Wow, thanks for this video! I got my early American rectangular power bleeder kit 0105 last year. However, it looks like I did not use it correctly. I did not know the fluid goes into the pump kit! So it appears I did a bunch of back-and-forth running back-and-forth constantly filling up the fluid reservoir (after unchaining the cap) and having to put more air pressure back into the pump kit!
Now I actually look forward to using this kit on my other vehicles. And of course it should go a whole lot faster.
Can we use this kit on motorcycles too?
SOLD !!! TY
Great post
Thank you for watching!
Good show, I want one!
Such a great tool! Makes bleeding brakes a painless process
Thank you for this video. I have few questions. I have Mercedes with SBC system (SBC stands for Sensotronic Brake Control and it's an electro-hydraulic brake system). It requires a bleeder to maintain pressure between 2 bar and 2.5 bar (that is 29 psi and 36 psi). Please tell me if you have any tools that can do it? Also what if I build the pressure up to 30 psi using this Motive bleeder? Will it hold such pressure or not? Thanks.
I have an 07 toyota tundra and am wanting to know if the adapter that comes with this is efficient for the job. I’m reading info that the adapter(s) that come with this kit are very good.
Thanks for sharing, are there any spesific name of that bottle bleeder sir?
Did you first empty out the master cylinder? Or did you move all of that old brake fluid along with the new brake fluid through your first bleeder valve?
I believe they moved the old oil through to avoid any air getting into the lines.
Great video. One question, is there a benefit of sucking old fluid out of the reservoir and filling up with fresh fluid prior to the bleeder procedure? Thanks!
On an e92 m3….do you have to recalibrate or cycle the ABS system before driving? I’ve installed a Stoptech st40R trophy 4 piston BBK upfront and OEM rear. Front and rear have braided lines and race pads. Pedal is to squishy and long travel to my liking. I bled the system again, some more air came out.. pedal became firmer but not enough to my liking. What do we think it can be? Thank you
Im pretty sure you can use these on hydraulic clutch systems too, i need to do both brake and clutch to my car
These are nice tools. I needed one 'right now' so I made my own with a 1/2 gallon bug sprayer, it already had a 1/4" hose, cut off the sprayer, added some quick connect and hose fittings and there you have it. The sprayers are thick enough to drill and tap for a gauge but I put mine inline with the hose. I machined an aluminum cap for use on BMWs. I'll admit that finding caps to use is difficult so buying a unit like this with one or multiple caps for different vehicles is a big plus and definitely worth it. Also, I refill the master by hand and don't put fluid in the pressure tank. I wouldn't put the fluid back in the bottle and I don't, or won't, use fluid that's been in the tank for more than a couple hours so saving the cleanup is worth it.
I did something for my power steering system, drilled a hole in a factory cap then stuck a quick connect on to it... voila. Doing stuff is fun right?
i use it same way and same reason. adding fluid only master and tool container only air. working well that way.
@@Jakedelus
How does that work, no air is introduced into the system that way? So for one caliper for instance you pressurize the system at pump(dry) and then bleed out the fluid until nothing is coming through the hose at that one bleeder then depressurize and disconnect the fitting at the master cylinder and fill it back up to the max line. Then repeat that process for every other caliper? Just trying to make sure I'm understanding correctly...
@@jeffherrington air wont go from reservoir to brake lines as long you have fluid in reservoir. No matter if you have fluid in bleeder tool container or not. And yes just like you say= pressurise the system with tool and go thru all brakes,disconnect tool and finaly top the reservoir to upper level.
@@Jakedelus Oh alright, good deal and thanks for the response to confirm 👍
Down at the wheel, ensure the bleed hose is pointed upward before looping down into the catch can...That way theres no chance of air pockets returning back in the system if your pressure drops too low.
Is always good to do a final bleed via the foot pedal...One benefit of this pressure system is it avoids eager foot travel on poorly serviced Vehicles.
Excellent point Peter!
Honest question - why the final bleed using the classic method?
@@shize9ine The seals within the master cylinder often collect sediment on the edges. The vacuum effect doesn't suck the fluid from all the crevasses in the sealed area but from the least resistance journey from the reservoir.
Doing a final foot pump and holding down, while the bleed nipple is closed, ensures any old fluid surrounding the seals is flushed out of the cylinder where it can cause surface damage to the seals., and pushes the entire volume of fluid, rather than vacuum flow.
Hence my comment regarding the "eager foot travel"... Cylinder bore's surface collects the sediment in the area where the travel area while pressurized does not reach...Using the foot pump method, one should not push the pedal further down than when the brake system is pressurized to avoid damaging the seals due to excessive travel in the cylinder... Tried to explain it in two or three examples... hope this helps.
@@peterlattimore6013 wish this was posted just two days ago instead of now. Flushed my brake system two days ago; when I got the car back on leveled ground, did the good ol’ method to pump the brake pedal before starting the car. May have pressed it too hard and too far, my brake pedal is now squeaking and potentially have damaged the master cylinder 😢
Welp, on the bright side, everyone’s gotta learn from their own mistakes!
@@louislaw8655 Spray some lithium grease up n under the pivot shaft of the pedal assembly... Never heard of noise being emitted from a leaky master cylinder... You may have just disturbed the surface of the shaft where it rotates... Can't give you any more confidence, I'm afraid...Good luck...
How do I find the right master cylinder cap adapter for jeep kl 2015 or how do I know the generic one will work
I am starting to notice that factory service manuals for modern cars require a second person to pump the brake pedal WHILE the power/ pressure bleeder is connected and the bleeder nipple open, In other words the classic pump and hold method is added on the regular pressure bleeding process
which is confusing, I always thought that pressure bleeding does not require any movement from the master cylinder, and that two person pump and hold sequence is only for the classic manual bleeding process, but factory service manuals are very specific about it , what's your thoughts on this?
When using this tool to bleed the clutch slave, do you need to pump the clutch pedal at any time during the process, or after the process?
is it the same cap for all brake reservoirs ? i'e all brands of cars?
i use this allways dry. first i top cars reservoir and attach the tool. air wont get the brake system if cars reservoir has fluid. it wont matter if tool reservoir is empty cause that air wont go bottom of cars reservoir where fluid goes to brake system.
will this Motive Bleeder Kit fit my 2009 XC90? Jeff
Where do I get one that works on 3rd gen 4runner? The master cylinder has a snap on cap.
Have the bleeder. What’s the part number for the red cap on a 18 c63S?
Doesn’t the leftover fluid in the hose spill when when you’re done and disconnect it from the master cylinder cap?
what about the air thats stuck iin the motive bleeder tube before you pump it up? Will that air go thru the reservoir and into the lines?
@edgark9814: Good qustion, you may be able to get rid of it by running some fluid into a catch bottle before attaching the tool to the brake fluid reservoir, or alternatively leave the hose end slightly above the reservoir until you see fluid coming out.
No. It is just caught in the reservoir.
Im assumimg same thing but for the clutch. I believe i got air that cant get out.
Speed Bleeders are a good alternative. But, it's hard to determine what size and type of bleeder screws you can use. Information on applications can be hard to find.
Should the lines from the reservoir be completed filled with fluid after pressuring? Seems like there’s a lot of air in mine and I don’t want to crack a bleeder and start pumping air through my brake lines
Do y’all have a link to a universal bleeder kit?
I can't get my r53 mini clutch slave to stay bled. I can get it good enough for a day but my the next morning I have no pedal. Hoping this tool will do the trick
Is the cap universal? Will it fit a 1992 Miata?
And what about ABS module?. How bleed air in it with scanner?.
Does this removes air too, assuming yes but he didn't mention that on this video....?
Is there different types of adapters for the revisor?
This is a very good idea but I would like to use it on my Harley’s Brake system.
Not sure because Harley's have that 2 screw top on the master cylinder reservoir for the front brakes. They have an adapter plate for your classic rectangle car reservoir but I did not see the underside. If its just a big rubbery gasket with one hole through the middle of it to pressurize the system then you can probably use it on your harley's front brakes. Amazon search motive products 1115 adapter because i think youtube removes links.
@@shize9ine thank you.
Most have a chain style that wraps around it then clamps down.
Will this work on Chevrolet vehicles?
Mike, where can I buy one of those "hood Lights" you're using in this video? Jeff, Ohio
Purchased a unit and and pressure stayed at 15psi when testing for leaks. I then added fluid and pressurized again at 15psi. I then noticed the unit is not pumping fluid from the pressure pump hose to the brake fluid reservoir. Is the unit faulty?
Are there any adapters for GM?
Nice job guys.
Thank you, Kevin!
how do I know what size is my brake reservoir cap is?
Can I have someone pump too? Will that
Make it faster and better?
Why didn’t you add fluid to the reservoir along with the motive pressure bleeder? You just added fluid to the motive pump. I would assume you’re pumping air first before the fluid even gets introduced to the reservoir by pumping the pressure in it right?
When you pump pressure forcing fluid over into the master cyl what happened to the air that was in the hose and master cyl ?
Any air in the system will be pushed out via the brake lines and can be seen when cracking open the bleeder valve on the caliper.
W bmw f30 zaczynamy od przedniej czy tylnej osi???
Would you guys recommend this when trying to bleed brakes after master cylinder was completely drained? I replaced my 2 front calipers and drained all the brake fluid from the system. The car sat for a year with no brake fluid and now that it has all the calipers and lines connected, I tried bleeding the system, but it still feels spongy and the brake pedal goes to the floor after what I thought was a successful bleeding job. Would appreciate some advice.
100%. Depending on the type of vehicle you have, you may need to actuate the ABS pump to get any air out of that as well.
This is likely because you still have air hidden in the system . Did you Bench Bleed the Master Cylinder? need to Bench Bleed the Master Cylinder when it runs dry. Its NOT hard at all. And actually simple. I did my first one today and i had alot of air bubbles trapped in the Master C.
Was the fluid from the pressure bottle line to the master cylinder cap completely full of fluid? Or were there gaps of fluid in that hose?
That line will never be completely "full" of fluid; they always have gaps in them, so totally normal if that is what you are seeing!
Is it recommended to flush the ABS when bleeding, say, this particular BMW?
Also, what about cleaning the Motive after you're done bleeding? Is it necessary?
I've seen denatured alcohol mentioned for cleaning the unit.
Thanks!
Only if you remove the ABS Modul or the lines to or from the ABS Modul. For a regular brake Service it is not nescessary to use a scan tool or ISTA to flush the abs System
ABS is basically a closed-loop assembly while in normal operation... To avoid damaging the ABS when changing pads etc, one should always open the bleed nipple to allow fluid to be released into a catch can, and not go back into the ABS module. I've never had an issue bleeding ABS trying to flush the system... Depending on your preferred method ( I use Air/vacuum device at the brake end to suck fluid out) ... Only race cars need synthetic fluid in their brake lines, so cleaning out an ABS module even when replacing one is not necessary.
Depends on the abs system, some of the modules actually have a bleeder on them in that case you could bleed the module
I wish I could find an adapter for 4th gen Prius…?
Ok I just got this from you guys , I dunno if it's not working well or I'm doing something wrong or that's the way it works, in your video when you pumped it dry , you were fast forwarding so I couldn't tell how many pumps you were pumping, so on mine I pimped 50 pumps to only get it up to 1 or 2 PSI I mean the needle barely moved , is that normal? or did I get a broken one? please reply so I can s=deal with the return/exchange before too late , thanks
Did it end up working out for you? Sounds like the cap wasn't sealing correctly on the master cylinder or leaking from tool somewhere else...
There was a leak somewhere, Maybe you did not tighten the cap enough or the rubber gasket was missing?
Well done. But the adapter cap has to be specific to your car model. Toyota adapters expensive.
I have 2018 Mercedes C300 4 matic non sport package. When Mercedes says to change brake fluid would procedure be the same other than pushing more fluid through until fluid is “clean”?
Hi joe, you would want to use at least one liter of fluid to flush out the system, just like how we did on the X1 in this video.
@@fcpeuro thanks and I’ll grab a kit when I’m due for service. Also, thanks for video on rear brakes for same 2018 C300, they came out great with your kit with Mercedes rotors and TRW ceramic pads 😎👍
Was the fluid reservoir already full when you hooked up the tool?
It will usually be at its normal fill line when starting the procedure.
Your catch bottle has a metal cylinder in line with the tubing, what is that, cause I don't see it on the ones for sale?
He installed that so he can shut the line off. It’s a check valve.
How do you know when you’ve bled each caliper enough? Especially if the fluid is the same color. Can’t seem to find that answer or how much fluid should we expect in each caliper.
Whenever I’ve done this, it’s always been easy to see the transition between the old fluid (amber or brown color) and the new stuff (clean looking and transparent). I guess it may be different if you’re working on a track car or something like that where the brake fluid is changed frequently, but for a normal car with fluid that’s probably a few years old, you shouldn’t have a problem.
What comes out must go in, if you end up purging a pint through the system then you do. The important thing is to do it enough that no further air bubbles exist any where in the system - it is best to get things gravity bleeding first before applying pressure, open bleeder into receptacle and keep master cylinder topped up and allow the liquid to begin flowing on it’s own.
Great video
But my Mercedes calls for DOT4 +
Can I still use just DOT4
Dot 4 is what majority of Vehicles use... I dare you to find any different.
DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 4+ and DOT 5.1 are compatible. It'll not cause trouble if you mix them. DOT 5 is NOT compatible with those. However, DOT 4+ has a higher boiling point than DOT 4. Use what your car is designed for, especially if you like to brake hard, or you have hilly roads where you descend a lot and heat up the brakes.
@@johnnyblue4799 Thank you for explaining 👍🏻
Should we empty the reservoir first and pull the old liquid out?
Hi, no need to do so, the tool will push all the old fluid out and through the lines. If the fluid is very bad, you can extract it and then run the bleeder.
Like the OP said...if the fluid has been in the car a long time, would be good to syphon some out of the reservoir rather then push it thru the system.
Do you need to empty the reservoir before attaching the bleeder?
It is always a good idea to do that, if you don't want to waste new fluid. Just make sure the pressure bleeder is not pushing air up the tube before you start the bleed, as sometimes happens.
Should you active the abs while doing this? I replaced rear calipers and brake lines and can’t get brakes bleed for shit.
Depends on your system you may have a valve that isolates the front and back in case of a sudden leak. You say you replaced the rears did a line break prior to your repair? The valve slides over to lock out the back tubing so that your front brakes still operate or vice versa if a fron line breaks. You need to locate the valve in the system and reset the position to allow flow to both halves.
I'm using the tool right now in Volkswagen touareg. It's leaking air. Can you please help me ?
If it's leaking air from the connection to the fluid reservoir, check the rubber gasket to make sure it is in place. You also sometimes have to tighten this down more than you think you might to create a good seal. Always be careful tightening however and be sure not to damage the plastic reservoir with too much twisting. Hope that helps!
Someone please explain the physics of how the air between the fluid in the bottle and the fluid in the reservoir before pressurisation does not get pushed into the brake system?
You cannot ccompress a liquid (brake fluid) but you can compress a gas (air)
What if the reservoir is rectangular with a snap on cap ?.
There is a different adaptor for that type, you can purchase different kits that come with different adaptors. Also you can get the various adaptors individually
What about using a scan tool to open the abs system to allow for a complete bleeding of the lines ?
Hi Sebastian, you can certainly do that using a scan tool usually only necessary if you introduce air into the system, or have very contaminated fluid.
You said you start with empty reservoir. But some explanation on how the reservoir gets filled would be helpful, my assumption is Motive fills the reservoir and then as you open the nipples on the caliper it causes the used fluid from the brake lines to drain. Is that right?
Thinking the same thing
That's correct, with it being pressurized the Motive tool is also filling the master cylinder with fresh fluid at the same time forcing new fluid in.
@@jeffherrington Thanks
This may sound like a stupid question, but do you empty out the master cylinder before doing any of these processes?
No need. If the fluid is heavily contaminated you can extract whatever is in there and top off with fresh fluid to be pushed through immediately.
You really don't empty the master cylinder and shouldn't but you could empty the reservoir of old discolored fluid rather than pushing it through the system. I use a turkey baster to do this then I top off with clean fluid before commencing
Why no mention of BMW's requirement to actuate the ABS Unit's valves using an OBD Scanner tool when performing a brake flush?
do i need to bench bleed master cylinder first?
It doesn’t hurt, it can be done once mounted in place as well
How should the power bleeder be stored? You mentioned removing all the fluid, but does it need rinsed out with something before storing?
Typically we rinse out the unit with a bit of brake parts cleaner and let it drip dry upside down for the night.
Just dump the fluid put the cap on and put it away
I bought this, but it takes many pumps to get to 5psi
You need to fix the air leaks intnhr tool. Just about every connection was leaking in mine. Used some thread seal and tightened up all the connections and was able to get it to hold.
will it work for Toyota?
There are two chains and two J hooks and winged nuts that came with my kit. There is also an adapter that has a flat rubber washer , the intent is for that cover to sit on the top of the reservoir while the chain is strung under the reservoir and tightened with the wing nut to create a tight seal. The problem is that I could never achieve a good seal that way. So I fashioned a piece of wood to sit under the reservoir. To further complicate matters there is a strengthening ridge under the reservoir so I made a carving so the piece of wood sits flush under the reservoir. This was the only way for me to achieve a tight seal. So to answer your question...yes ...it will work with just about any vehicle if you are creative enough. I Initially bought mine to use with my Volvo and it screws on to the reservoir as shown in this video. One more thing , the clear hoses that come with this bleeder will eventually rot away and I took steps to clean them well with alcohol. I have since bought black fuel rubber hoses and retrofit the unit.
What kind of underhood light is that ?
That would be APT-151SL on FCPEuro.com!
Awesome. Thanks for the reply! 👍
I dont understand how the pressurized reservoir works. How is it not just pushing air out since the exit nozzle is on top??
There is a clear pick up tube that picks up from the bottom of the bleeder and this tube is attached to the "exit" tube where it exits the container. It is pretty much the same concept like your household spray cleaners. And you are observant ! So as the air is pumped into the container that contains fluid it, will push the fluid out into the brake reservoir. Hope this explanation helps.
I ordered the bleeder kit for late model Chevy from Motive in Norton Shores Michigan. They took the money out of my account right away ($79.54). They emailed me a confirmation that had a box for tracking number. When I tried to track it I could get nothing. Emailed them the next day, no response. Tried to call them all there mail boxes were full. Tried next day same thing. Emailed and tried to call them every day for a week. Couldn't get any response. Called my bank today and reported them.
Do not order anything from them! This really pisses me off. This is not a joke!!!
I bought from this store and it is a garbage! It doesn’t hold the pressure long enough for me to bleed the fluid out! I pumped all through out the procedure cuz the pressure goes down like a flat tire!! I don’t know why!! And I don’t even know if I get the right pressure for my break system!! BS!! And the 2 tube connection was licking, I tried to tighten them up and put Teflon tape!! Im not sure if the one I got is defective. Its not worth it!!! 😡
Two possible scenarios as to why:
#1) The o-ring is not sealing the cap where the pump is. That needs to be seated correctly for it to create an air tight seal. There is a groove it should sit in and if it's dislodged it will not build or hold pressure
#2 ) The fitting between the vehicle specific adapter and power bleeder is a pipe thread. This needs to be very tight to seal and not leak,.
If both of those areas are good it might just be a defective hand pump. We will replace it for you.
Kit doesn't even fit on my VW CC reservoir. So I guess this doesn't fall under the "most" as described in the description online so unfortunate. Kind of tired of wrong descriptions related to CCs on FCP euros site.
My boy is stoned 😂😂
🤔