It's really great to see someone at work who actually knows what they're doing, every time I take my car to a shop 9/10 times I can be sure nobody knows and nobody cares and just start replacing random parts.
Great job Dan ....a really good lesson for any mechanic or do it yourselfer to learn ....and then the follow-up with the actual culprit responsible for the short !
Next week it is back when they still can't find the short in the junction box. Complete with spare junction box. I was wondering if they wanted it back to reassemble the mess themselves. I hate dashboard nuts, getting them off is bad, getting them on the studs is a nightmare.
@@Diagnosedan Imagine that customer has to pay hundreds of euros for this, only to find out it was a connector bent open touching the ground. He'll still get it cheap. I got my piston 2 melted somehow, piston rings are visible from top (or at least the fire ring) and that will cost me a new engine. and a few thousand euro. (I've got the news yesterday, Friday 13. What a day that was...) PS: Great diagnosis Dan. I love your way of thinking "outside the box"!
Yep absolutely, seems like we’re the only ones who understand that 🤔 everyone else banging on about a load test & even Dan himself should have done those 3 steps first & then would have found it straight away. Continuity testing is ok if you follow the those 3 steps then if ok next step load the wire. Sadly most people just do a open check. Whilst a resistance check isn’t bullet proof it’s still the starting point.
@@madds6678 I also say to my students never to use the continuity mode. After a while they start ignoring the reading and and pay attention only to the buzzer...
You both are absolutely right. I made a comment earlier about this, seems we think alike. The fault could have been found straight away with only the multimeter, no need for test light or scope.
@@satunnainenkatselija4478 We're talking about floating wires here. With connected wires unless you know what signals are to be expected a multimeter is not a lot of good and in some cases may even provoke more problems, in that case a scope is required.
Very impressive!!! I am a former industrial technician, and I can't tell you how many times my coworkers missed a problem because they were in the habit of testing everything with ground as a reference. On ungrounded systems, they were lost. In this case, testing to ground was the best path, and you took it to the next level. It goes to show that you have to be open to testing things in more than one way!
That's why you gotta love oscilloscopes. I don't know how anyone works on modern cars without them. Without them, it's so hard to see what's actually goin on in the system.
Again great job Dan. There are many UA-camrs that do repair videos. What sets you apart from them is your crystal clear focused approach. I think mechanics work is very diverse. One time you have to use brute force to install a steering knuckle to a shock absorber. And the other time you need the inspect your work with a magnifying glas. I really think the previous mechanic should have done that.
A lot depends upon the electrical diagnosis experience of the previous tech. Dan came through. I'm glad the customer did not ask for new wires to be run and the problem would not have been found... we'd not have a great video experience!
@@Diagnosedan I'm a DIY mechanic and I have an aversion against the abundance of software in modern cars. I believe it's designed to break down on you after the dealers warranty expires to have you buy another car. So I prefer to work on my two 90s cars where I have full documentation on in books.
@@SE45CX Software is fine so long as you get the software to fix and replace, just like any other part. The problem is the keys and the proprietary control which is so much easier to lock down with software so car companies have been taking advantage. I'm about to retire my entirely mechanical 25-year old van and yeah I'm not very keen on all the proprietary shite my expensive new car/van is going to come with. In many ways software is easier to fix than hardware - it's certainly easier to reconfigure, and interrogate, so it's not a bad thing in itself. The problem is the closed implementations we have in almost all cars.
Hello Dan, as a hobbyist electrician each time I check for continuity in a wire I always check also for shorts to GND/supply especially when the line goes to multiple connects and points where it can be pinched. The continuity test is not the best tool for this … but do not blame the tool .. some (most of) times the user does now how to use it in the context to get all the relevant data. Keep up the good work 👍🏻👍🏻
That should've been step 2 of the techs wiring check. Also I agree that the dvm is perfectly capable of checking for cross shorts. Don't need a test light for that. Also an overlay harness would've fixed it without having to hook up a meter. Multiple quick dealer fixes without all the swapping.
Yeap ,we always check short to positeve and ground not only wire broke,becouse we know what we doing. This is the only problems ..no need of scope here.
@@alanqtrmaine8175 Well, a test light will or won't light depending if there is a resistance to gnd or +v, like a chunk of rust in the back of a connector ... that's where 500 mA from a test bulb works well - you KNOW a short to gnd is truly a short to gnd.
Thanks for the teaching again. If in doubt I always load test with a test light or halogen bulb. Continuity tests are great for tracing wires, but circuits need to be loaded to prove that they can carry the amps.
Always like to see Dan do the work- I wish Rainman Ray and Eric at Southmain would learn from him. They both have good diagnostic skills, but they clutter the job with endless mumbling, extraneous comments and tedious cliche's.
The multi meter is just fine in your diagnoisis. You confirmed the wire is NOT broken but it is exposed somewhere. I always test for short to ground when i do this because i DONT have the scope. So multi i have and normally works for me. You took the exact same steps as i would have if i had all tools like you. So respect to you. Thank you for the great video.
Imagine working on faulty wiring with pretty well known issues and not checking short to ground… This should be second thing to do, right after continuity test.
@@madds6678 The whole reason for the video is to follow in the previous technicians steps to see where he went wrong. Of course Dan knows that he should of done a load test much earlier.
I guess, being an auto electrician, I was straight onto this and my early thoughts were whilst there was continuity, it didn’t mean there was not a short to ground. The moment the scope came out it confirmed my thoughts. As an end note, care needs to be taken probing connectors, especially on Japanese motors which do tend to use thinner wiring and more densely populated connectors. So easy to damage a pin. Well diagnosed Dan.
That connector seems to have multiple shorts - look at the other connections too! The brown end wire looks shorted too. Someone must have been very heavy handed with test probes!
This was a really interesting lesson and it helped me solve a similar problem with my Fiat Ducato. I found and fixed the intermittent problem that has annoyed me for a long time and it only took me a half hour to fix and no cost at all. Thank you Dan, it’s brilliant now.
I’m having trouble trying to figure out why D. Dan only has two hundred and some subs…..COME ON PEOPLE THIS IS THE VERY TOP TIER IN AUTOMOTIVE DIAGNOSTIC VIDEOS…Diag Dan deserves a lot more support from you hundreds of thousands of viewers….that said! Another great video lesson. I’ve been doing this 35+ years and STILL learning especially with DIAGNOSIS DAN…Thanks again man….
Dan what a great video! I have been working for GM for 23 years and I also have run across weird problems like this. Your explanation of doing a continuity test is spot on. I too have been burned by this test in the past and it is challenging and rewarding when you can repair a problem like this. I have in the past run new wires when a short to ground is suspected, but due to high labor rates we will usually just run new wires, I have many times wondered what the root cause of the problem is. I have to say in my experience over 90% of electrical problems in the field end up being damaged wires and not faulty modules, just my 2 cents for anyone else who might want to try a new module first. Thanks for the great videos!
Great video I really enjoyed following you down the rabbit hole to diagnose this one, this was so easily overlooked by carrying out a continuity test, I always test for continuity then do a voltage drop test and see how many volts are being lost on that wire, having said that this job would have been a real head scratcher, well done Dan!
You always have to think what it is you are really measuring. If, as Dan found, A & B are connected, you must consider the possibility that they're both connected to C. Good reminder - I could see myself falling in that hole.
Your work is amazing. I don't know if you realise how good you are at explaining things. I really like your approach and what you do for the automotive community💪
Interesting diagnosis and a great teaching moment for many, as it's always worth doing a continuity test and a short to power and ground. Seen this sort of problem a few times. Also noticed, the white pin in that connector wasn't the only damaged one, looked like there was at least another that was damaged and close to shorting.
Diagnose Dan is the frickin man! Nobody even comes close to what he does and how well he shows us how he does it. Is there anyone else even half as good? I've never seen anyone. Dan is so far ahead. No doubt the immo isn't coded to the key. Start then stop is usually a failed immo.
Using jump wire with no communication faults is the way to go to rule out wiring problems.. I had a similar incident with an audi where the multimeter did the same. Since then on faults like these I jump 1 wire at a time to find the problem or completely rule out the wiring loom.. Saves time and hassle, another great video Dan 👍
Or you could save the hassle of that & do a proper continuity check after the first test by just touching to positive & earth on the disconnected circuit 3 simple steps which would find this in less than a minute then a load test if above is ok.
I'm absolutely NOT a "car-Guy", I "ended up here" after looking at "electronic videos", but I found it both very informative and entertaining, all due to the clear and comprehensive presentation... Though I must admit that I'm a bit "bummed out" by how "computerised" even the "most basic car" is nowadays. Best regards
Thanks Dan for another good new video. When you showed the picture I noticed not just the purple and white wire have contact, but the green and brown one next to it could have contact too.. Good find and very educational search. Since friends and family have these cars too, I'll keep this one in mind when they have crank-no-start issues.
@@koeniglicherSomeone did, but not necessarily the other technician. Could have been the owner who then sent it to the technician after causing the damage. Everyone is going to be a Shaggy in this situation.
@@chrishartley1210 OK, good point to not accuse anyone. I ruled out the owner, as the purple and green wires are affected. To find out, that these are the relevant ones and are avilable at this connector, this would need a wiring diagram (or some "internet advice"). I do not commonly associate owners with reading wiring diagrams and tracing wires over multiple connectors but rather workshop technicians. Still, your point is very valid indeed.
@@koeniglicher Perhaps he was looking for a different fault, perhaps it was another technician, perhaps... Dan did say he needed to get permission to fix the fault as the owner may want to do the work himself, which is what gave me the idea that it could have been the owner. Anyway it's not that big a deal and we are never going to identify the guilty party. 😁😁
@@chrishartley1210 Dan should isolate these two/four terminals temporarily (like with a small plastic tab) and see whether this the only fault or whether there are more issues with the wiring. Because there can be more of them, especially after all this ripping the car apart.
Dan ,you are the best. No one can reach you.Test light,sometimes like this, can bit a lot of expensive equipment.No one can underestimate, a cheap (compare to other expensive tools) test light. Test light, is one more important tool, to our daily troubleshooting battle.
Brilliant, my 107 has the crank no start and sadly my garage could not progress this issue, this video has given me an idea to try the repair of my car myself, THANKS DAN.
@@OilBaron100 I never did it but I think I once saw it. You go under the video where there is things like download, save , share etc. There is thanks button there, which simply is donate button. Check out you will see it. This man deserves a lot MBS Moshitoa south Africa
Hi Dan i used to be a workshop manager in France for a Peugeot dealer. My tech always said he wouldn't troubleshoot anything else than PSA cars because he wouldn't be able to or without specific data you just prooved again the opposite thank you
That was brilliant I'm now in college myself in Ireland and the instructor is old . Older than me I'm 40 getting me papers to be qualified in my dream job but I'll never just do a continuity test again must get this light Ur videos are brilliant well explained not rushed and easy to follow
So, as kind of an "extended continuity test" for wires that should be totally floating, do also a continuity check (though with some resistance like your test lamp) wire-to-ground and wire-to-12V. A very interesting sneaky problem. Great detective work!
My first thought, a continuity test has no resitance, so could be breaking down under load, although this turned out to be a signal wire so not a problem. There again I was an electrician so I would have checked for earth fault 1st thing you can miss so much with just a continuity test
as technician had aygo with same fault code couple of years ago, it had corroded connector (same that has fixed here) so it was bridged between data lines! cleaned it and started right away
Another fascinating diagnosis from Diagnose Dan! Sure glad you showed us where the purple line was shorted. I bet the tech that worked on the car will not be so quick to rely on the continuity test in the future without some further testing.
Thank you for your video, it brings back old classes I took on electronics, the 5 life's of a wire: never used (missing), good installed, not expected power, not expected ground, connected wrong.
Best one you've done Dan,weirdly the wife said her c1 same year wouldn't start just before Xmas,I never even thought it was the immobiliser issue and thought she was having a girly moment,will see if she breaks down and then I will get lots of man points😀 for recovery and fixing🤣🤣
Even more given that, if that occurs and you fix it, you will have removed the effing dashboard and reinstalled, in the process! Make sure she sees that... :)
Just amazed at the amount of knowledge about car electrical systems. You also have the patience of a saint mate in my book a genius at work. I recently had a problem with a parasitic drain which turned out to be that the battery has passed it's use by date - has been in the car for 8 years and the techy and Mazda told me that a low voltage will not let the relays - certain relays which rely on working properly - changing the battery for a new one cured it. Now I am at a loss to why you don't have more subscribers than you have??
Hi Dan I designed microprocessor control systems for 35 years, a short to ground on a system is absolute hell to find. The scope is a game changer for debugging serial communication problems. Tough job for driveway mechanics!!!!
I don’t get why the customer would have to pay for new parts, installed by the dealer/workshop that doesn’t solve the issue he/she wanted to be solved.
Dealers do this. I was a truck driver many years ago. I diagnosed the truck as having a bad ecm. The truck would burn coolant temp sensors after 3-7 hours of use. The owner took it to the dealer, they charged $4000 dollars, changed a bunch of parts, told the owner they couldn't fix it and to take it to the dealer of the engine manufacturer. This is normal in this day. It's the death of expertise. There are very few like diagnose Dan.
@@Tomaskii I know that they can’t return the parts. My point is that if the dealer or shop misdiagnosis the fault, they should pay for parts that are unnecessary put on the car. If that were the case, they would think more before ordering new parts.
@@Capitanvolume This a good example. People wouldn’t pay a contractor that was called to fix a leaky roof if he would install a new chimney and the roof would still be leaking. In the automotive world however we somehow accept things like that.
@@Conservator. customers pay is the problem. I would have left and never paid. The owner insisted on maintaining relationships. Not sure I would be maintaining relationships after I was mugged
@@BrainHurricanes The test light is ok, but 4A is too much. These are communication wires with small diameter (rated usually at 5A tops). Pushing 4A over them may cause overheating. Not a good idea. Be very careful using that technique.
Great video. Would you consider it a valid test if on the initial continuity test after confirming continuity through the wire simply doing the extra step of checking for continuity to battery positive and negative?
Indeed that would have worked. I saw the failure straight away because he failed to check the connection on the fuse box. With these wirings it's imperative to check EVERY connector. I would have done the last part of the video (where he replaced the wires) right before using the scope. It's an electrical engineering procedure called "finding the least probable point of failure". Many cars have failures in the wiring loom when it passes the firewall or other parts caused by vibration and degradation of insulation. The title of the video is also incorrect, it's not about using the multimeter wrongly, it's about not using it sufficiently. No need for the scope or the check light. An ever better way is to use the multimeter in ohms mode, zero to two ohms means 100% continuity, anything above means check the connections because they may not be connecting 100%. He only checked the pins of the connectors on the immobilizer and the ecu, but you need to check each and every connector in the wiring. There's most probably another connector in the interior on the drivers side right where the firewall is, or there might even be a connector in the hole of the firewall (this is used in many modern citroens). Sometimes dirty or oxidated pins are the cause of failure. Using contact cleaner on each connector is also good practice.
You can NOT use the continuity test on a meter to test live circuits it is not the fault of the meter but the fault and inexperience of the person useing it! You have one of the BEST meters made the Fluke meter. The issue is you like most mechanics dont know how to use the tools that you have to find the problem. You can use the volt meter to do the same thing that you did with a test light.
I learned more in this video about electrical diag, than i did in a full year at freightliner. Just change the sensor, replace the module dirka dirka same stuff. Never saw a scope or a test light there either. Just standard multimeters and scanner tool. Subscribed
The green wire also was bent out just like the purple wire. Dan is the best! I am an industrial equipment tech, not a car tech, but I’ve been burned by this many times before. Test lights are so much better than DMM’s for this kind of thing.
This video came at exactly the right minute. Just at the moment when this video came up I was in the workshop diagnosing the Aygo of my mother-in-law with exactly the same issue 🙂Dan, you're the best!!!
Hi Dan. Excellent video again. But... I have to disagree with you a bit on the use of a multimeter. Usual continuity check for com wiring would surely be.. Purple to purple Green to green Purple to green Purple to power or ground Green to power or ground Ohms and so on. The fault would have been found quite quickly.
Thanks Dan. I have the same problem with my Renault Clio (Crank no start). I have not been able to run the car for more than two years now. I keep it in locked storage. I have spent so much money on this Clio that makes the car economic madness. New engine with 10K miles... All modules from a working car... New injectors and new coil pack. Thing is... I am disabled, I find I cannot do the work myself any-more. As i find reaching for wires and into the depths of the engine difficult in my wheelchair. And my heart is not good. Great watching this it does inspire me to get my Clio Called (Bluey) fixed. My Snap on tool displayed DTC was short to Positive. Renault Dealer said that the car had too many changes, and refused to attempt repair. I get the feeling they thought that they just didn't know how to fix it.
Wow. Sometimes the basics and being thorough are the critical keys to proper diagnosis. Otherwise you can end up with a half torn apart car and a fired parts cannon. Well done. Dan is the GOAT.
I Love this video and as a maintenance tech for industrial machinery it was a great lesson in troubleshooting and in the basics of the meter. You nailed it once again through thorough testing and evaluation and your step by step instructions and your patience is amazing. Thanks so much for taking along on this journey.
I had a Citroen BX back in the 1890s. A very underrated car with very little electronics. The alternator charge warning light started coming on. Took alternator to a specialist who said it needed work. Fitted overhauled unit and all seemed well. Then that light came on again. I noticed battery wasn’t going flat as much as you’d expect but whatever. Then I heard a click as the warning light came on. I don’t remember what circuit it was but was able to trace were it went. Lo and behold found a chafed wire over a body seam. That short to earth was tripping a relay which powered the battery side of the charge indicator. So the charge light came on powered by the alternator rather than by the battery which is the more usual direction. Wire fixed, better protected and problem solved. At least I now had a nice “new” alternator.
Techs should understand that a simple continuity test isn't enough on a data line, but that doesn't make it their enemy, but their friend. It's the second part what stomps people, and while i thought before the video that maybe the data lines could be shorted one to another, at the end there was still a short, but to ground, which you demonstrated can be diagnosed with the oscilloscope, or even a test light. Great video from you as always! Cheers from Spain!
i worked on a TVR Cerbera with an ecu problem. after ages it was a poor connector at the ecu. crazy thing was the ecu is in the passenger foot well, constantly being pressed by feet of people. great design!! anyway, great video Dan.
Loved this diagnostic video, I bought both my daughters 2013 versions of these fantastic Peugeot 107's and currently running around in my youngest daughters 107 whilst she's at University, definitely keeping this fault and diagnosis in my mind. No road tax, runs on fumes and I could park both of them in the space my Hi Lux takes up. Great cars
@@Diagnosedan The UK. These cars emit less than 100g/km CO2 so no road tax. My 2l diesel is £230 a year. A 5 litre supercharged V8 Range Rover is £500... yes, that's the stupid taxation classes we have!
@@khalidacosta7133 I think we have a good split between road tax and fuel tax. Low mileage users still pay for roads etc, while high mileage users pay more in fuel taxes but use road services much more.
great lesson. that's why i rarely use an ohmmeter or diode test. what you have is a true short- an alternative path that makes that a parallel circuit. thing is an ohm continuity or diode test mode uses the testers low voltage and miniscule amperage and calculates the return. to truely understand each tester use another tester to measure its output voltage and amperage on these scales and with it off the input resistance. most modern meters run off the regulated 3.3volt rail somewhere 10-20 ma. while for automotive the imput resistance being 10 or 20 megaohms wont usually affect your circuits in higher frequency low power it may
Or Dan could have done a proper 3 step continuity test. total resistance ( open/closed check) then continuity to positive then earth. That would have found it in less than a minute. The problem is nothing to do with the meter it’s operator error. I agree a meter can trip you up but it’s more a lack of proper testing & interpreting the result. The meter didn’t lie it gave the correct reading for what he was testing an open which there wasn’t.
As always, well explained. I had a similar symptom with the lambda sensor. All cables and connectors checked. Everyone had continuety. Now I'm i private and don't have any signal acquisition hardware. After a lot of thinking, I found the fault in the female piece of the wiring harness. An additional crimp connector was worn out crimped to the connecting pin.
Excellent find, I learnt that a continuity test can put you on the wrong path with a Nissan that had no comms with the LHF ABS sensor. Sensor tested good and the wiring pasted a continuity test so put a abs module in it, surprise surprise same code🤦. Put the old module back in and stripped the harness to find it had rubber the signal wire to ground on the body. Lesson learned the hard way
Yes i agree w the continuity test,, the continuity test as we saw showed wire(s) connected on both ends but not accurate enough to indicate short to ground,, Awsome video!
Amazing find and fix Dan! I have a 2015 lexus es350 here at the shop with a similar code of B279A (TDS line high) … Vehicle came in from another shop and originally purchased from an auction with light water damage. So far found a blown smart fuse (5a) which restored comms between the the ID box and ecm and a bad starter. Can’t wait to peel back the layers and see why we have no starter control when pressing the start button.
In my career as an avionics technician, we always did wiring checks to ground. Multimeter negative to ground, positive to pin. On the other end, use a jumper to apply ground. It validates continuity and short to ground in one step.
I would absolutely use a Multimeter for a Job like this! But at first you have to know what is right and wrong. And you realy have to on modern cars. Nice Job Dan!
Dan congrats cause you do it in the right way.The other technician made a beginner mistake.I always check the continuity of wire from start to finish,mandatory between wire and GND and between wires like you did in this case.That technician didn't use the scope..
He didn't do that, he only checked continuity on each wire, not between them and certainly not to ground otherwise he would have found the error within 2 minutes, no scope or test light needed for that.
Well, after the ohm test and seeing the diag tool can talk to both units, it was clear the wire is somehow wrong. In electric faults there are 2 kind of problems: something is not connected but should be, and something is connected but should'nt. As demostrated on the video, a short to ground or power can be tested with simple tools like an ohm meter or a pen. Nonetheless, having a scope nowdays in a shop essential. Thanks for sharing quality content Dan!
Great video! I have the same probleme with my wife's C1. Tomorrow will be the day. If i succed, i will be a hero, and of curse, you a superhero. Thanks a lot!
OMG BIG DAN I've just repaired this dtc on a c1 the Ariel was leaking and corroded the green and purple wiring in the connector by the o/s/f A post! I took the top part of dash off to rectify! 😀
Hi there very interesting video i must say I've been in electronics for more than 32 years and I've always used the ohms range setting on my fluke multimeter to test continuity on burnt or corrosion pcbs and wiring because there can be resistance in the line also and also tests for ground shorts .Thanks for the very informative video I'm sure customer happy to happy getting car back running .
Could be obvious to some but others keep it too simple and then that happens, great work hope the technician that didn't solve it learned and continues to improve.
Thanks for a great video! Only one concern to mention - any connectors in cars can be de-pinned having the right tool, so you can throw a test wire in there without cutting any wires.
Good job, but I want to jump in FOR the continuity test. It is useful to do it first, as you did also, because if the wire is broken it is a straight forward diagnose. The other way around, I agree, is an indication to look more closely on the problem. 👍
By the way, Dan do you have a let's say "best method" to connect wires to each other. For example for a LPG system. Is soldering the best way or connectors. Would love to hear your comment about it.
The ONLY question when the " experts " claim they are going to proceed is " will it fix the car " ? . This customer needs to make a generous offer to settle the case . I will pay you your net cost on parts replaced ONLY . No diagnosis. ( faulty ) or labor . In fact , he should put the original ECM back in . Continuity is almost NEVER used in automotive tests . If there is ONLY one strand of wire left , you will get 12 volts or continuity all day . Will it carry CURRENT ? Great fix - as usual !
Dan, you make diagnosis seem so easy. The sign of a true professional! Brilliant video!
Thank you for your comment
@@Diagnosedan so did this customer pay for the other garage incompetency.
I haven't seen anybody to diagnose a car like you. you are in a different league, and thank you for your time to film and post them for us 👏👏👏👏👏👍
Wow! Thanks that really means a lot!
If you check any signal path, always check for connection to ground or positive. After the connection check.
Would have saved a lot of time and work.
Absolutely, video should be titled I fucked up didn’t do 3 step continuity test spent hours when a minute was all that was needed 😂
That's right! 👍💪
@@madds6678hi mate! What's the 3 steps of a 3 step continuity test? Thanks.
It's really great to see someone at work who actually knows what they're doing, every time I take my car to a shop 9/10 times I can be sure nobody knows and nobody cares and just start replacing random parts.
Unfortunately we also see that alot, but there are also alot of fantastic workshops out there with amazing techs.
@@Diagnosedan what’s the name of music at 00:51?
@@Diagnosedan I am getting messages from you for winning a prize, is the you or a scam?
@@thetraindriver01 It'a a scam, to verify click on the person sending you messages profile and you will probably see an empty profile.
Yes true most mechanics are people who didn't make it through school so that's why they are mechanics and don't care. Not all tho this guy is great. 👍
Great job Dan ....a really good lesson for any mechanic or do it yourselfer to learn ....and then the follow-up with the actual culprit responsible for the short !
I couldn't end the video without showing that!
Next week it is back when they still can't find the short in the junction box. Complete with spare junction box.
I was wondering if they wanted it back to reassemble the mess themselves.
I hate dashboard nuts, getting them off is bad, getting them on the studs is a nightmare.
@@Diagnosedan Imagine that customer has to pay hundreds of euros for this, only to find out it was a connector bent open touching the ground.
He'll still get it cheap.
I got my piston 2 melted somehow, piston rings are visible from top (or at least the fire ring) and that will cost me a new engine. and a few thousand euro. (I've got the news yesterday, Friday 13. What a day that was...)
PS: Great diagnosis Dan. I love your way of thinking "outside the box"!
Never too old to learn. Great quality. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Hi
Think someone is using your channel to invite your viewers on telegram
I just find your Channel DiagnoseDan,You’re wonderful and so helpful,thank you so much!! You’re Really Good!!😊God bless you!!❤
Nice! When a wire is floating (both ends on air). Always test it against power and ground. And against other wire ends of the same harnes. Always.
Yep absolutely, seems like we’re the only ones who understand that 🤔 everyone else banging on about a load test & even Dan himself should have done those 3 steps first & then would have found it straight away.
Continuity testing is ok if you follow the those 3 steps then if ok next step load the wire. Sadly most people just do a open check. Whilst a resistance check isn’t bullet proof it’s still the starting point.
@@madds6678 I also say to my students never to use the continuity mode. After a while they start ignoring the reading and and pay attention only to the buzzer...
You both are absolutely right. I made a comment earlier about this, seems we think alike. The fault could have been found straight away with only the multimeter, no need for test light or scope.
@@satunnainenkatselija4478 We're talking about floating wires here. With connected wires unless you know what signals are to be expected a multimeter is not a lot of good and in some cases may even provoke more problems, in that case a scope is required.
Some rather rough probing of those terminals! Not the only one opened!
You've seen that right, i dont know what they were thinking 🤷
Very impressive!!! I am a former industrial technician, and I can't tell you how many times my coworkers missed a problem because they were in the habit of testing everything with ground as a reference. On ungrounded systems, they were lost. In this case, testing to ground was the best path, and you took it to the next level. It goes to show that you have to be open to testing things in more than one way!
Congratulations... regards from Athens Greece..
Thank you
It is such a learning experience when you watch Dan. Makes you WANT to trace an electrical fault
That's why you gotta love oscilloscopes. I don't know how anyone works on modern cars without them. Without them, it's so hard to see what's actually goin on in the system.
Again great job Dan. There are many UA-camrs that do repair videos. What sets you apart from them is your crystal clear focused approach.
I think mechanics work is very diverse. One time you have to use brute force to install a steering knuckle to a shock absorber. And the other time you need the inspect your work with a magnifying glas. I really think the previous mechanic should have done that.
A lot depends upon the electrical diagnosis experience of the previous tech. Dan came through. I'm glad the customer did
not ask for new wires to be run and the problem would not have been found... we'd not have a great video experience!
The Automotive repair industry changed alot! Todays techs need to be experts in Software, telephones, navigation, bluetooth, apps, internet, ect...
@@Diagnosedan I'm a DIY mechanic and I have an aversion against the abundance of software in modern cars. I believe it's designed to break down on you after the dealers warranty expires to have you buy another car. So I prefer to work on my two 90s cars where I have full documentation on in books.
@@SE45CX that’s why the old cars are so expensive, now: everyone had that same idea.
@@SE45CX Software is fine so long as you get the software to fix and replace, just like any other part. The problem is the keys and the proprietary control which is so much easier to lock down with software so car companies have been taking advantage. I'm about to retire my entirely mechanical 25-year old van and yeah I'm not very keen on all the proprietary shite my expensive new car/van is going to come with. In many ways software is easier to fix than hardware - it's certainly easier to reconfigure, and interrogate, so it's not a bad thing in itself. The problem is the closed implementations we have in almost all cars.
Hello Dan,
as a hobbyist electrician each time I check for continuity in a wire I always check also for shorts to GND/supply especially when the line goes to multiple connects and points where it can be pinched. The continuity test is not the best tool for this … but do not blame the tool .. some (most of) times the user does now how to use it in the context to get all the relevant data.
Keep up the good work 👍🏻👍🏻
That should've been step 2 of the techs wiring check. Also I agree that the dvm is perfectly capable of checking for cross shorts. Don't need a test light for that. Also an overlay harness would've fixed it without having to hook up a meter. Multiple quick dealer fixes without all the swapping.
Yeap ,we always check short to positeve and ground not only wire broke,becouse we know what we doing.
This is the only problems ..no need of scope here.
@@alanqtrmaine8175 Well, a test light will or won't light depending if there is a resistance to gnd or +v, like a chunk of rust in the back of a connector ... that's where 500 mA from a test bulb works well - you KNOW a short to gnd is truly a short to gnd.
Thanks Den you are Brilliant thanks again I learned
Good job Dan. Basics are basics and sometimes unfortunately we did forget the basics and that's what happens. Thanks a lot.
True😁 Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the teaching again. If in doubt I always load test with a test light or halogen bulb. Continuity tests are great for tracing wires, but circuits need to be loaded to prove that they can carry the amps.
Great one! Between yourself and Eric O, there's no stopping your ability to fix the un-fixable!
Thanks!
That hack job they did behind the cluster is the next problem with that car. Nice job Dan!
Always like to see Dan do the work- I wish Rainman Ray and Eric at Southmain would learn from him. They both have good diagnostic skills, but they clutter the job with endless mumbling, extraneous comments and tedious cliche's.
I,v been a tech for 50 years and only these video,s from diagnose dan I learn things ,great stuff.
Having the right tools, good common sense, knowledge and experience equals to solved it again. Awesome job Dan.
Thank you 😁👍
The multi meter is just fine in your diagnoisis. You confirmed the wire is NOT broken but it is exposed somewhere. I always test for short to ground when i do this because i DONT have the scope. So multi i have and normally works for me. You took the exact same steps as i would have if i had all tools like you. So respect to you. Thank you for the great video.
Thanks for your comment its appriciated 👍
Imagine working on faulty wiring with pretty well known issues and not checking short to ground… This should be second thing to do, right after continuity test.
Bang on 👍🏻 naughty Dan tripped himself up & fell down the rabbit hole 😂
@@madds6678 The whole reason for the video is to follow in the previous technicians steps to see where he went wrong. Of course Dan knows that he should of done a load test much earlier.
It should have been indeed.
@@madds6678 I'm sure Dan has forgotten more than you'll ever know. Dan tripped nothing.
The man worked the steps and got the outcome and that’s what you do in this ever evolving headache of a trade
I have been following you for a while, and I learned a lot from you, especially new cars. In Algeria, we still use 1990 cars.
I guess, being an auto electrician, I was straight onto this and my early thoughts were whilst there was continuity, it didn’t mean there was not a short to ground. The moment the scope came out it confirmed my thoughts. As an end note, care needs to be taken probing connectors, especially on Japanese motors which do tend to use thinner wiring and more densely populated connectors. So easy to damage a pin. Well diagnosed Dan.
Thank you
That connector seems to have multiple shorts - look at the other connections too! The brown end wire looks shorted too. Someone must have been very heavy handed with test probes!
This was a really interesting lesson and it helped me solve a similar problem with my Fiat Ducato. I found and fixed the intermittent problem that has annoyed me for a long time and it only took me a half hour to fix and no cost at all. Thank you Dan, it’s brilliant now.
altijd gaaf om een expert zo bezig te zien! op een dag wil ik er ook zo goed mee worden, en deze videos geven me motivatie! Hou ze vol zo!!
Dat is goed om te horen!
I’m having trouble trying to figure out why D. Dan only has two hundred and some subs…..COME ON PEOPLE THIS IS THE VERY TOP TIER IN AUTOMOTIVE DIAGNOSTIC VIDEOS…Diag Dan deserves a lot more support from you hundreds of thousands of viewers….that said! Another great video lesson. I’ve been doing this 35+ years and STILL learning especially with DIAGNOSIS DAN…Thanks again man….
With the dash all ripped up and the wiring harness under the hood opened, I hope more problems don't appear once it is all reassembled. Great video!
As long as its all put back together the right way it should be fine😉
Dan what a great video! I have been working for GM for 23 years and I also have run across weird problems like this. Your explanation of doing a continuity test is spot on. I too have been burned by this test in the past and it is challenging and rewarding when you can repair a problem like this. I have in the past run new wires when a short to ground is suspected, but due to high labor rates we will usually just run new wires, I have many times wondered what the root cause of the problem is. I have to say in my experience over 90% of electrical problems in the field end up being damaged wires and not faulty modules, just my 2 cents for anyone else who might want to try a new module first. Thanks for the great videos!
Great video I really enjoyed following you down the rabbit hole to diagnose this one, this was so easily overlooked by carrying out a continuity test, I always test for continuity then do a voltage drop test and see how many volts are being lost on that wire, having said that this job would have been a real head scratcher, well done Dan!
Loaded testing and indeed voltage drop are the way to check your wiring.
You always have to think what it is you are really measuring. If, as Dan found, A & B are connected, you must consider the possibility that they're both connected to C. Good reminder - I could see myself falling in that hole.
Your work is amazing. I don't know if you realise how good you are at explaining things. I really like your approach and what you do for the automotive community💪
Interesting diagnosis and a great teaching moment for many, as it's always worth doing a continuity test and a short to power and ground. Seen this sort of problem a few times. Also noticed, the white pin in that connector wasn't the only damaged one, looked like there was at least another that was damaged and close to shorting.
Yes you are right multiple pins were poked.
Diagnose Dan is the frickin man!
Nobody even comes close to what he does and how well he shows us how he does it.
Is there anyone else even half as good? I've never seen anyone. Dan is so far ahead.
No doubt the immo isn't coded to the key.
Start then stop is usually a failed immo.
Using jump wire with no communication faults is the way to go to rule out wiring problems.. I had a similar incident with an audi where the multimeter did the same. Since then on faults like these I jump 1 wire at a time to find the problem or completely rule out the wiring loom.. Saves time and hassle, another great video Dan 👍
Or you could save the hassle of that & do a proper continuity check after the first test by just touching to positive & earth on the disconnected circuit 3 simple steps which would find this in less than a minute then a load test if above is ok.
@@madds6678 I do that too. Most mechanics do all of the above usually.
Thanks for the positive comment its really appreciated 👍
@@madds6678 would have been a short video and we would'nt have learned as much 😉
I'm absolutely NOT a "car-Guy", I "ended up here" after looking at "electronic videos", but I found it both very informative and entertaining, all due to the clear and comprehensive presentation...
Though I must admit that I'm a bit "bummed out" by how "computerised" even the "most basic car" is nowadays.
Best regards
Thanks Dan for another good new video. When you showed the picture I noticed not just the purple and white wire have contact, but the green and brown one next to it could have contact too.. Good find and very educational search. Since friends and family have these cars too, I'll keep this one in mind when they have crank-no-start issues.
Yes, green and brown seem to be in contact as well. So this other workshop guy used two massive test probes and bent both of these terminals.
@@koeniglicherSomeone did, but not necessarily the other technician. Could have been the owner who then sent it to the technician after causing the damage. Everyone is going to be a Shaggy in this situation.
@@chrishartley1210 OK, good point to not accuse anyone. I ruled out the owner, as the purple and green wires are affected. To find out, that these are the relevant ones and are avilable at this connector, this would need a wiring diagram (or some "internet advice"). I do not commonly associate owners with reading wiring diagrams and tracing wires over multiple connectors but rather workshop technicians. Still, your point is very valid indeed.
@@koeniglicher Perhaps he was looking for a different fault, perhaps it was another technician, perhaps... Dan did say he needed to get permission to fix the fault as the owner may want to do the work himself, which is what gave me the idea that it could have been the owner.
Anyway it's not that big a deal and we are never going to identify the guilty party. 😁😁
@@chrishartley1210 Dan should isolate these two/four terminals temporarily (like with a small plastic tab) and see whether this the only fault or whether there are more issues with the wiring. Because there can be more of them, especially after all this ripping the car apart.
Dan ,you are the best. No one can reach you.Test light,sometimes like this, can bit a lot of expensive equipment.No one can underestimate, a cheap (compare to other expensive tools) test light. Test light, is one more important tool, to our daily troubleshooting battle.
You are definetly a diagnose wizard...amazing work as always...keep up the good work
Brilliant, my 107 has the crank no start and sadly my garage could not progress this issue, this video has given me an idea to try the repair of my car myself, THANKS DAN.
Your videos are priceless! Super helpful! PLEASE keep them coming, good sir!!! Love from California!
Thank you so much Fred 👍😁
How did you donate $50 to Dan’s video?
@@OilBaron100 I never did it but I think I once saw it. You go under the video where there is things like download, save , share etc. There is thanks button there, which simply is donate button. Check out you will see it. This man deserves a lot
MBS Moshitoa south Africa
@@OilBaron100 The "Thanks" button
Hi Dan i used to be a workshop manager in France for a Peugeot dealer. My tech always said he wouldn't troubleshoot anything else than PSA cars because he wouldn't be able to or without specific data you just prooved again the opposite thank you
Says alot when other shops bring them to you, excellent video
That was brilliant I'm now in college myself in Ireland and the instructor is old . Older than me I'm 40 getting me papers to be qualified in my dream job but I'll never just do a continuity test again must get this light Ur videos are brilliant well explained not rushed and easy to follow
So, as kind of an "extended continuity test" for wires that should be totally floating, do also a continuity check (though with some resistance like your test lamp) wire-to-ground and wire-to-12V.
A very interesting sneaky problem. Great detective work!
Thanks for watching!
My first thought, a continuity test has no resitance, so could be breaking down under load, although this turned out to be a signal wire so not a problem. There again I was an electrician so I would have checked for earth fault 1st thing you can miss so much with just a continuity test
Why wasn't the wire smoking or burned up with that improper contact to ground ?
as technician had aygo with same fault code couple of years ago, it had corroded connector (same that has fixed here) so it was bridged between data lines! cleaned it and started right away
Another fascinating diagnosis from Diagnose Dan! Sure glad you showed us where the purple line was shorted. I bet the tech that worked on the car will not be so quick to rely on the continuity test in the future without some further testing.
Lets hope he's learned something after seeing this video
Thank you for your video, it brings back old classes I took on electronics, the 5 life's of a wire: never used (missing), good installed, not expected power, not expected ground, connected wrong.
Thanks for your comment
Best one you've done Dan,weirdly the wife said her c1 same year wouldn't start just before Xmas,I never even thought it was the immobiliser issue and thought she was having a girly moment,will see if she breaks down and then I will get lots of man points😀 for recovery and fixing🤣🤣
Even more given that, if that occurs and you fix it, you will have removed the effing dashboard and reinstalled, in the process! Make sure she sees that... :)
Ha ha ha🤣🤣👍
Don't forget the mansplaining!
Just amazed at the amount of knowledge about car electrical systems. You also have the patience of a saint mate in my book a genius at work. I recently had a problem with a parasitic drain which turned out to be that the battery has passed it's use by date - has been in the car for 8 years and the techy and Mazda told me that a low voltage will not let the relays - certain relays which rely on working properly - changing the battery for a new one cured it. Now I am at a loss to why you don't have more subscribers than you have??
A simple test light is your best friend on many occasions . That was a difficult one that needed lots of prior experience - very impressive .
Thanks Richard!
Hi Dan I designed microprocessor control systems for 35 years, a short to ground on a system is absolute hell to find. The scope is a game changer for debugging serial communication problems. Tough job for driveway mechanics!!!!
I don’t get why the customer would have to pay for new parts, installed by the dealer/workshop that doesn’t solve the issue he/she wanted to be solved.
New electric parts,
which they can't return like bad brakes or filters
Dealers do this. I was a truck driver many years ago. I diagnosed the truck as having a bad ecm. The truck would burn coolant temp sensors after 3-7 hours of use. The owner took it to the dealer, they charged $4000 dollars, changed a bunch of parts, told the owner they couldn't fix it and to take it to the dealer of the engine manufacturer. This is normal in this day. It's the death of expertise. There are very few like diagnose Dan.
@@Tomaskii
I know that they can’t return the parts. My point is that if the dealer or shop misdiagnosis the fault, they should pay for parts that are unnecessary put on the car.
If that were the case, they would think more before ordering new parts.
@@Capitanvolume
This a good example. People wouldn’t pay a contractor that was called to fix a leaky roof if he would install a new chimney and the roof would still be leaking.
In the automotive world however we somehow accept things like that.
@@Conservator. customers pay is the problem. I would have left and never paid. The owner insisted on maintaining relationships. Not sure I would be maintaining relationships after I was mugged
As a X Telecom tech one of the basic test on data or phone lines was short between and short to grd and short to + .
Would a load test (4 amp test light) have worked to help check wire integrity?
I too enjoyed seeing you work through this problem.
That is exactly what Dan used in the video, a test light as a load. Doesn't need to be 4A, but it would work also.
@@BrainHurricanes The test light is ok, but 4A is too much. These are communication wires with small diameter (rated usually at 5A tops). Pushing 4A over them may cause overheating. Not a good idea. Be very careful using that technique.
No matter how "book smart" you are it comes down to experience. You have once again done an amazing job.
Great video. Would you consider it a valid test if on the initial continuity test after confirming continuity through the wire simply doing the extra step of checking for continuity to battery positive and negative?
I thought so too. I can't really see why that won't work.
Indeed that would have worked. I saw the failure straight away because he failed to check the connection on the fuse box. With these wirings it's imperative to check EVERY connector. I would have done the last part of the video (where he replaced the wires) right before using the scope. It's an electrical engineering procedure called "finding the least probable point of failure".
Many cars have failures in the wiring loom when it passes the firewall or other parts caused by vibration and degradation of insulation.
The title of the video is also incorrect, it's not about using the multimeter wrongly, it's about not using it sufficiently. No need for the scope or the check light.
An ever better way is to use the multimeter in ohms mode, zero to two ohms means 100% continuity, anything above means check the connections because they may not be connecting 100%.
He only checked the pins of the connectors on the immobilizer and the ecu, but you need to check each and every connector in the wiring. There's most probably another connector in the interior on the drivers side right where the firewall is, or there might even be a connector in the hole of the firewall (this is used in many modern citroens). Sometimes dirty or oxidated pins are the cause of failure. Using contact cleaner on each connector is also good practice.
You can NOT use the continuity test on a meter to test live circuits it is not the fault of the meter but the fault and inexperience of the person useing it! You have one of the BEST meters made the Fluke meter. The issue is you like most mechanics dont know how to use the tools that you have to find the problem. You can use the volt meter to do the same thing that you did with a test light.
The problem was not with the multimeter tool, but with the diagnostician's use of the tool.
That's why the title of the video is don't USE a multimeter like this!
in holland we call this problem ''franse meuk!'' , nice job diagnosedan ty for sharing your daignose methodes
I learned more in this video about electrical diag, than i did in a full year at freightliner. Just change the sensor, replace the module dirka dirka same stuff. Never saw a scope or a test light there either. Just standard multimeters and scanner tool. Subscribed
Excelent Dan!!! You have something special. I learned a lot of things from yours videos. Thanks a lot!
That's so good to hear!
The green wire also was bent out just like the purple wire. Dan is the best! I am an industrial equipment tech, not a car tech, but I’ve been burned by this many times before. Test lights are so much better than DMM’s for this kind of thing.
This video came at exactly the right minute. Just at the moment when this video came up I was in the workshop diagnosing the Aygo of my mother-in-law with exactly the same issue 🙂Dan, you're the best!!!
Broken wire?
this is awesome lerning material Thanks
Hi Dan.
Excellent video again. But... I have to disagree with you a bit on the use of a multimeter. Usual continuity check for com wiring would surely be..
Purple to purple
Green to green
Purple to green
Purple to power or ground
Green to power or ground
Ohms and so on. The fault would have been found quite quickly.
Thanks Dan. I have the same problem with my Renault Clio (Crank no start). I have not been able to run the car for more than two years now. I keep it in locked storage. I have spent so much money on this Clio that makes the car economic madness. New engine with 10K miles... All modules from a working car... New injectors and new coil pack. Thing is... I am disabled, I find I cannot do the work myself any-more. As i find reaching for wires and into the depths of the engine difficult in my wheelchair. And my heart is not good. Great watching this it does inspire me to get my Clio Called (Bluey) fixed. My Snap on tool displayed DTC was short to Positive. Renault Dealer said that the car had too many changes, and refused to attempt repair. I get the feeling they thought that they just didn't know how to fix it.
It's easier to sell a new car (with more benefit for the dealer) than repair your car. Go elsewhere.
Wow. Sometimes the basics and being thorough are the critical keys to proper diagnosis. Otherwise you can end up with a half torn apart car and a fired parts cannon. Well done. Dan is the GOAT.
I Love this video and as a maintenance tech for industrial machinery it was a great lesson in troubleshooting and in the basics of the meter. You nailed it once again through thorough testing and evaluation and your step by step instructions and your patience is amazing. Thanks so much for taking along on this journey.
I had a Citroen BX back in the 1890s. A very underrated car with very little electronics. The alternator charge warning light started coming on. Took alternator to a specialist who said it needed work. Fitted overhauled unit and all seemed well. Then that light came on again. I noticed battery wasn’t going flat as much as you’d expect but whatever. Then I heard a click as the warning light came on. I don’t remember what circuit it was but was able to trace were it went. Lo and behold found a chafed wire over a body seam. That short to earth was tripping a relay which powered the battery side of the charge indicator. So the charge light came on powered by the alternator rather than by the battery which is the more usual direction.
Wire fixed, better protected and problem solved. At least I now had a nice “new” alternator.
Techs should understand that a simple continuity test isn't enough on a data line, but that doesn't make it their enemy, but their friend. It's the second part what stomps people, and while i thought before the video that maybe the data lines could be shorted one to another, at the end there was still a short, but to ground, which you demonstrated can be diagnosed with the oscilloscope, or even a test light. Great video from you as always! Cheers from Spain!
Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment its appriciated 👍
i worked on a TVR Cerbera with an ecu problem. after ages it was a poor connector at the ecu.
crazy thing was the ecu is in the passenger foot well, constantly being pressed by feet of people.
great design!!
anyway, great video Dan.
great video !! on the ending i also noticed the green terminal is touching the brown .
Loved this diagnostic video, I bought both my daughters 2013 versions of these fantastic Peugeot 107's and currently running around in my youngest daughters 107 whilst she's at University, definitely keeping this fault and diagnosis in my mind. No road tax, runs on fumes and I could park both of them in the space my Hi Lux takes up. Great cars
No road tax? I wonder where you are from. Not from my country 🤣
@@Diagnosedan The UK. These cars emit less than 100g/km CO2 so no road tax. My 2l diesel is £230 a year. A 5 litre supercharged V8 Range Rover is £500... yes, that's the stupid taxation classes we have!
@@khalidacosta7133 I think we have a good split between road tax and fuel tax. Low mileage users still pay for roads etc, while high mileage users pay more in fuel taxes but use road services much more.
great lesson. that's why i rarely use an ohmmeter or diode test. what you have is a true short- an alternative path that makes that a parallel circuit. thing is an ohm continuity or diode test mode uses the testers low voltage and miniscule amperage and calculates the return. to truely understand each tester use another tester to measure its output voltage and amperage on these scales and with it off the input resistance. most modern meters run off the regulated 3.3volt rail somewhere 10-20 ma. while for automotive the imput resistance being 10 or 20 megaohms wont usually affect your circuits in higher frequency low power it may
Or Dan could have done a proper 3 step continuity test. total resistance ( open/closed check) then continuity to positive then earth. That would have found it in less than a minute. The problem is nothing to do with the meter it’s operator error. I agree a meter can trip you up but it’s more a lack of proper testing & interpreting the result. The meter didn’t lie it gave the correct reading for what he was testing an open which there wasn’t.
As always, well explained. I had a similar symptom with the lambda sensor. All cables and connectors checked. Everyone had continuety. Now I'm i private and don't have any signal acquisition hardware. After a lot of thinking, I found the fault in the female piece of the wiring harness. An additional crimp connector was worn out crimped to the connecting pin.
Wow . Thanks for the video D.D . The last technician didn’t think about immo off it would help.
Impressive Dan, It just shows, don't take things for granted and you of course finally identified the problem. 👍👍👍
Thanks for your comment 👍
Great job, Dan! I can't imagine the customer putting the dash back together and taping up the wiring harness. What a mess the other shop left for him.
When others give up on the job Diagnose Dan comes to the rescue. There aren't many like you Dan.
Excellent find, I learnt that a continuity test can put you on the wrong path with a Nissan that had no comms with the LHF ABS sensor. Sensor tested good and the wiring pasted a continuity test so put a abs module in it, surprise surprise same code🤦. Put the old module back in and stripped the harness to find it had rubber the signal wire to ground on the body. Lesson learned the hard way
Yes i agree w the continuity test,, the continuity test as we saw showed wire(s) connected on both ends but not accurate enough to indicate short to ground,, Awsome video!
Amazing find and fix Dan! I have a 2015 lexus es350 here at the shop with a similar code of B279A (TDS line high) … Vehicle came in from another shop and originally purchased from an auction with light water damage. So far found a blown smart fuse (5a) which restored comms between the the ID box and ecm and a bad starter. Can’t wait to peel back the layers and see why we have no starter control when pressing the start button.
Thanks for watching and good luck!
In my career as an avionics technician, we always did wiring checks to ground. Multimeter negative to ground, positive to pin. On the other end, use a jumper to apply ground. It validates continuity and short to ground in one step.
I would absolutely use a Multimeter for a Job like this!
But at first you have to know what is right and wrong.
And you realy have to on modern cars.
Nice Job Dan!
Dan congrats cause you do it in the right way.The other technician made a beginner mistake.I always check the continuity of wire from start to finish,mandatory between wire and GND and between wires like you did in this case.That technician didn't use the scope..
He didn't do that, he only checked continuity on each wire, not between them and certainly not to ground otherwise he would have found the error within 2 minutes, no scope or test light needed for that.
Well, after the ohm test and seeing the diag tool can talk to both units, it was clear the wire is somehow wrong. In electric faults there are 2 kind of problems: something is not connected but should be, and something is connected but should'nt. As demostrated on the video, a short to ground or power can be tested with simple tools like an ohm meter or a pen.
Nonetheless, having a scope nowdays in a shop essential. Thanks for sharing quality content Dan!
Great video! I have the same probleme with my wife's C1. Tomorrow will be the day. If i succed, i will be a hero, and of curse, you a superhero. Thanks a lot!
Problem solved. Superhero!!!!!!!!!! IT was the green wire for me. 👍👍👍👍👍
OMG BIG DAN I've just repaired this dtc on a c1 the Ariel was leaking and corroded the green and purple wiring in the connector by the o/s/f A post! I took the top part of dash off to rectify! 😀
interesting,thank you
Hi there very interesting video i must say I've been in electronics for more than 32 years and I've always used the ohms range setting on my fluke multimeter to test continuity on burnt or corrosion pcbs and wiring because there can be resistance in the line also and also tests for ground shorts .Thanks for the very informative video I'm sure customer happy to happy getting car back running .
The green wire is almost touching the brown wire too at the end. Thank you for all great videos! Im learning something from every single one i watch!
Great catch! We saw it👍
Well done.The sign of a true professional! Brilliant video!
I do nothing with car repairs, I do play with mulitmeter and other tools, but love to watch it and get the glue. Gr Jeroen
Could be obvious to some but others keep it too simple and then that happens, great work hope the technician that didn't solve it learned and continues to improve.
Wow What a blessing to finally find the problem
Thanks for a great video!
Only one concern to mention - any connectors in cars can be de-pinned having the right tool, so you can throw a test wire in there without cutting any wires.
Good job, but I want to jump in FOR the continuity test. It is useful to do it first, as you did also, because if the wire is broken it is a straight forward diagnose. The other way around, I agree, is an indication to look more closely on the problem. 👍
By the way, Dan do you have a let's say "best method" to connect wires to each other. For example for a LPG system. Is soldering the best way or connectors. Would love to hear your comment about it.
I enjoy watching your videos ,Dan. You make problems look so easy, the way you explain them. Keep doing what you do...👏
Thank you
The ONLY question when the " experts " claim they are going to proceed is " will it fix the car " ? . This customer needs to make a generous offer to settle the case . I will pay you your net cost on parts replaced ONLY . No diagnosis. ( faulty ) or labor . In fact , he should put the original ECM back in . Continuity is almost NEVER used in automotive tests . If there is ONLY one strand of wire left , you will get 12 volts or continuity all day . Will it carry CURRENT ? Great fix - as usual !