I pulled my pump apart to the same extent you did. Without creating custom pullers for that large bearing or the pully mount I could go no further. Noted issues to pass on to others? Carbon buildup but not horrible. Casting flaw and grooving of bore from impeller rotation. Largest most serious issue? Dry bearings. I decided to pack the small shaft hole passage with bearings full of grease. Pack the large bearing with grease. Even coated the bore surface with grease working on a coating. When reinstalled the truck runs quiet now. Think this was the original from 1995! Hey thank you for the video I found it helpful before pulling my unit out to disassemble.
Sadly Smog Air Pumps are getting harder to find. Im hoping Referee stations will understand soon. Because yes. Its either 500 dollars or running without it.
I cant believe it Sir. Alot of people are running into this same issue. My air pump just started Squealing like crazy. Im considering this. Thank you so much.
Hi, I did it today for my Crown Victoria LTD '85. Tommorow will be mount back in the car. I hope it will be fine, pupm is working smooth now. I did only the same like in the video, without bearing exchange and drum dismount. Many thx
Thank you for sharing, the myth about using any kind of Lube will Ruin a Smog Pump is just that, a Myth! It was good that you had informed viewers about Litheum Grease, not breaking down, there are even better though more expensive Lubes that will work even better, again thank you for sharing!
I had a pice of one of the fins break off and lodge itself in the diverter valve, we let it constantly blow air into the upper cat and cooked it. The entire outside of the cat is blue and purple lol Definitely worth cracking open if you still have an OEM pump, cause the aftermarket rebuild crap destroyed my cats, which are 1,400 dollars im California. Thank god I live in a county where I dont have to smog my '89 or any vehicle for that matter. I took that air pump off, gutted it, and stuck it back on to keep its pulley in place in the serpentine system, stock belt, ect. That pump lasted a year. Was replaced under warranty, and the one before it lived almost 2 years before making horrible sounds. Wish i had kept the original but I was young and didn't know any better.
jkDLux1 2 things you can do here. First, if you are in California there is little you can do. I suggest that you remove the vanes if the are binding. It defeats the purpose of the pump but it’s there visually for inspections. I did this to a F150 and it’s still fine with no CEL. Good luck
jkDLux1 they are spring loaded and the are a woven plastic material. I used a small chisel and some patience to pull the pieces out but leaving everything else in. Patience is the key here. All in all I am 1 for 2 on these. I is quiet and the other one I had to remove the vanes. They are both quiet now since that. Good luck.
@@rafaelmeneses5066 wish I could of heard the noise I think mines going out 1994 f150 302 sounds to me is. Trickle to rushing water or air.almost like a stuck starter Bendix on a running motor.
Pontala Vasconcellos Moreira on the back of the heads are emissions tubes that end up there. Taking it off means pulling the pump and buying a smaller belt. I did this first and i was left with exhaust fumes in the engine area. If you block off the tubes id say this is a good option but I didn’t want to do that.
Put new lower radiator hose on my 96 4.9 F150 a year ago, it wouldn't clear the smog pump pulley, none of the replacement hoses do on the 4.9 apparently. Now I have to pass emissions in CA went to put the old 26 year old radiator hose back on i kept in the garage, and the smog pump pulley is frozen now, even though it was fine a year ago. Good times.
I have an 89 Mustang 5.0 I replaced all the bearings in my air pump which looks the same as this air pump. Front bearing Koyo #6203RS Vane bearings INA #SCE65 Rear Bearings INA #SCE248 I used a old style steering wheel puller (drilling two more holes) to pull the vane behind the pulley. I used a slide-hammer to pull the end out of the drum - clamping the drum lightly in a bench vise. Be careful not to drop the pieces that go on either side of the vanes where they go through the drum - they are fragile and will break easily. I replaced all the bearings without issue. I have not started the Mustang yet as I am fixing oil leaks on the engine and rebuilding the transmission, but all seems well as my pump spins quietly.
Thanks for this video, but I think this might be the worst car repair I have ever had to do. The main mounting bolt was absolutely frozen in place. I had to pull the entire bracket (with the pump still mounted) out of the truck. Then still broke the bracket - turns out that the bolt is threaded into the bracket, in spite of having a nut on the end also. Finally was able to get the bolt out by welding on a large nut and using an impact wrench. Now on to actually fixing the pump, and then reparing the bracket. Deciding whether to braze or tig weld now.
Yikes I probably would have just bought a smaller pulleyand bypassed that headache. If you pull the 3 bolts off and remove the pulley you can bypass the system while figuring out the bolt issue. Good luck.
get you some pb blaster and soak it. let it sit. that stuff is the marvel mystery oil of bolt breakers. i had the same issue and got it to break loose after a good soaking.
I pulled mine out of my ‘91 4.9. One of the carbon pieces that hold the vanes in place broke and the other fell out on the same side. My question is if I reinstalled it without those little carbon rods would it basically cause the pump to implode or break or would it just slightly reduce its pumping power? Very hard part to find a new one or information about lol.
Did you try lubricating the vanes with some silicone paste or something similar? That should make it quieter and put less strain on the bearings and engine.
The vanes are a designed to scrape the wall but it’s a plastic like material unlike the metal it is in. Only a small area of the vane actually touches the air pump wall. A high heat grease on the vane may help.
In the first view of the disassembled air pump, there is a 3/8 drive extension that appears to be lineing up the vane push rods. You do not cover, why, or how you did this. Please elaborate.
mikeceli this is purely for alignment. The reason it is there is because the vanes rotate over the shaft. The vane are separated in 2 or 3 separate pieces. The 3/8 drive keeps it all together and aligned. Remember you will need to spin it to clean it. Not doing that will make the vanes fall out of place when you spin it for cleaning. This will make it harder to align when it’s time to put the back cover on. Hope that helps.
What's with the 2 open holes on the cover??? I see light through one of the holes in your cover. Is there something that plugs them? When I spin mine, I feel air come out of them. Seems odd. Is yours the same?
@@rafaelmeneses5066 so you're saying both holes were open on your cover but sealed when cover was assembled onto pump? I could look through the center hole and see the veins passing by. Pump is runnin in truck right now. Minor noise, not seized. Havnt driven yet
Did it work? I have a 96 F150 w/ a 4.9 and my air pump is making a noise like bb's in a coffee can. I'd like to fix or replace it before it seizes up and leaves me stranded. I can't find one though.
I installed a new one. It makes noise ;) Instead of bb's shaken in a can I now have crickets. The instructions (such as they were...) stated that it might make noises for a couple of months. BTW part# 32303 works if anyone is looking for a new one and can't find the suggested part number. I installed a new clutch and hydraulics. Did it by myself. Not a fun job alone.
Michael Boykin i went that route with the Bronco and after 4k miles it still chirps a little. Removing the vanes solved the noise problem on the F150. The unit provides little to no value to the truck but those who reside in Nazi emission states this solution may work as the component is not removed.
@@rafaelmeneses5066 thanks..well I sprayed pentrating oil into the intake hose..it actually quieted down almost to no sound for a minute..then after a while it's back. Kind of a clunking noise. Remanufactured is $220... If they have it. I'm wondering about removing the vanes inside, letting jus the bearings spin...hmmm
@@rafaelmeneses5066 well it was froze solid today. Pulled it apart, rear bearing was blown out! I removed vanes..took awhile..but out. So only front bearing in place...hmmm. O'Reilly had one but has to be delivered NOT to a store! Probably case these are old and reman...and won't last. I'll decide what to do after running again...thanks
If you have a seized pump then replacing the front bearing behind the fan is a big chore. That bearing is sealed in some kind of epoxy which needs to be cut out with a dremel. These pumps were made that way cause the pumps were meant to be a consumable item. Mine is currently off the car and seized after making two 6k hits. I just wish that front bearing was serviceable. There’s a rebuild place a little over 1 hr from. Last yr they said it would cost roughly $300 CAD, and that’s if they don’t break anything while they take it apart. I sort of want to tackle this because of the $300 and the front bearing makes me not want to do it. My car is all stock and matching numbers so I don’t want a Remanufactured pump or a different yr used or rebuilt pump.
John Milner is get some used ones for parts if you want the original to stay with the car. Mechanically they are all the same. The housings varied but the internals were the same. Good luck.
I DO NOT, see the Next video, saying if it worked or not??? TOO MANY Video makers / posters, do NOT tell you in the vid you are watching, IF IT WORKS!.... OR NOT!
Mark W good question. I’ve done this 2 times It did reduce the noise in one to a point I am okay with it. My one didn’t work as well and I pulled the vanes out so there is no noise. I still think it’s worth a try because it will only take about an hour to complete.
I pulled my pump apart to the same extent you did. Without creating custom pullers for that large bearing or the pully mount I could go no further. Noted issues to pass on to others? Carbon buildup but not horrible. Casting flaw and grooving of bore from impeller rotation. Largest most serious issue? Dry bearings. I decided to pack the small shaft hole passage with bearings full of grease. Pack the large bearing with grease. Even coated the bore surface with grease working on a coating. When reinstalled the truck runs quiet now. Think this was the original from 1995! Hey thank you for the video I found it helpful before pulling my unit out to disassemble.
Sadly Smog Air Pumps are getting harder to find. Im hoping Referee stations will understand soon. Because yes. Its either 500 dollars or running without it.
I cant believe it Sir. Alot of people are running into this same issue. My air pump just started Squealing like crazy. Im considering this. Thank you so much.
Do you know what is the model number of the rear bearing?
Hi, I did it today for my Crown Victoria LTD '85. Tommorow will be mount back in the car. I hope it will be fine, pupm is working smooth now. I did only the same like in the video, without bearing exchange and drum dismount. Many thx
How was it
how loud was it before you made these fixes?
Thank you for sharing, the myth about using any kind of Lube will Ruin a Smog Pump is just that, a Myth!
It was good that you had informed viewers about Litheum Grease, not breaking down, there are even better though more expensive Lubes that will work even better, again thank you for sharing!
I had a pice of one of the fins break off and lodge itself in the diverter valve, we let it constantly blow air into the upper cat and cooked it. The entire outside of the cat is blue and purple lol
Definitely worth cracking open if you still have an OEM pump, cause the aftermarket rebuild crap destroyed my cats, which are 1,400 dollars im California. Thank god I live in a county where I dont have to smog my '89 or any vehicle for that matter.
I took that air pump off, gutted it, and stuck it back on to keep its pulley in place in the serpentine system, stock belt, ect.
That pump lasted a year. Was replaced under warranty, and the one before it lived almost 2 years before making horrible sounds. Wish i had kept the original but I was young and didn't know any better.
What if yours is locked up like mine? I've been through 4 air pumps in 4 years.
jkDLux1 2 things you can do here. First, if you are in California there is little you can do. I suggest that you remove the vanes if the are binding. It defeats the purpose of the pump but it’s there visually for inspections. I did this to a F150 and it’s still fine with no CEL. Good luck
@@rafaelmeneses5066 How did you remove the vanes?
jkDLux1 they are spring loaded and the are a woven plastic material. I used a small chisel and some patience to pull the pieces out but leaving everything else in. Patience is the key here. All in all I am 1 for 2 on these. I is quiet and the other one I had to remove the vanes. They are both quiet now since that. Good luck.
@@rafaelmeneses5066 wish I could of heard the noise I think mines going out 1994 f150 302 sounds to me is. Trickle to rushing water or air.almost like a stuck starter Bendix on a running motor.
@@michael71976 the noise is a high pitch scraping or a ticking noise if the vanes are catching.
Why don't you take it out? It does nothing beside making noise.
Pontala Vasconcellos Moreira on the back of the heads are emissions tubes that end up there. Taking it off means pulling the pump and buying a smaller belt. I did this first and i was left with exhaust fumes in the engine area. If you block off the tubes id say this is a good option but I didn’t want to do that.
Put new lower radiator hose on my 96 4.9 F150 a year ago, it wouldn't clear the smog pump pulley, none of the replacement hoses do on the 4.9 apparently. Now I have to pass emissions in CA went to put the old 26 year old radiator hose back on i kept in the garage, and the smog pump pulley is frozen now, even though it was fine a year ago. Good times.
I have an 89 Mustang 5.0 I replaced all the bearings in my air pump which looks the same as this air pump. Front bearing Koyo #6203RS Vane bearings INA #SCE65 Rear Bearings INA #SCE248 I used a old style steering wheel puller (drilling two more holes) to pull the vane behind the pulley. I used a slide-hammer to pull the end out of the drum - clamping the drum lightly in a bench vise. Be careful not to drop the pieces that go on either side of the vanes where they go through the drum - they are fragile and will break easily. I replaced all the bearings without issue. I have not started the Mustang yet as I am fixing oil leaks on the engine and rebuilding the transmission, but all seems well as my pump spins quietly.
Dale Diebert This is the only information on UA-cam that is worth something 😂 thanks for the bearing information.
Dale Diebert where did you buy your bearings for your air pump, I might have to do the same for mine
Michael Everett i would look on google for the Koyo part numbers. You may find it after a little searching. Good luck
Por qué no lotradusen olocomentan A español
How did it turn out ?? Make a video !!!
Thanks for this video, but I think this might be the worst car repair I have ever had to do. The main mounting bolt was absolutely frozen in place. I had to pull the entire bracket (with the pump still mounted) out of the truck. Then still broke the bracket - turns out that the bolt is threaded into the bracket, in spite of having a nut on the end also. Finally was able to get the bolt out by welding on a large nut and using an impact wrench. Now on to actually fixing the pump, and then reparing the bracket. Deciding whether to braze or tig weld now.
Yikes I probably would have just bought a smaller pulleyand bypassed that headache. If you pull the 3 bolts off and remove the pulley you can bypass the system while figuring out the bolt issue. Good luck.
get you some pb blaster and soak it. let it sit. that stuff is the marvel mystery oil of bolt breakers. i had the same issue and got it to break loose after a good soaking.
great help thnks much
Mine isn't noisy but it shredded my new belt. Do they always make a lot of noise like that?
I pulled mine out of my ‘91 4.9. One of the carbon pieces that hold the vanes in place broke and the other fell out on the same side. My question is if I reinstalled it without those little carbon rods would it basically cause the pump to implode or break or would it just slightly reduce its pumping power? Very hard part to find a new one or information about lol.
Should be okay but the balance will be off. I would remove all the vanes so the balance is okay. I did that once to a seizes pump and it ran fine
ok thank you. i found a guy that refurbishes them but if he never answers back i guess plan B becomes plan A lol
@@rafaelmeneses5066
Good info. Thanks
Did you try lubricating the vanes with some silicone paste or something similar? That should make it quieter and put less strain on the bearings and engine.
The vanes are a designed to scrape the wall but it’s a plastic like material unlike the metal it is in. Only a small area of the vane actually touches the air pump wall. A high heat grease on the vane may help.
In the first view of the disassembled air pump, there is a 3/8 drive extension that appears to be lineing up the vane push rods. You do not cover, why, or how you did this. Please elaborate.
mikeceli this is purely for alignment. The reason it is there is because the vanes rotate over the shaft. The vane are separated in 2 or 3 separate pieces. The 3/8 drive keeps it all together and aligned. Remember you will need to spin it to clean it. Not doing that will make the vanes fall out of place when you spin it for cleaning. This will make it harder to align when it’s time to put the back cover on. Hope that helps.
@@rafaelmeneses5066 Ok, The bearing on my air pump are no where large enough for a 3/8 drive extension. I used a punch. Thanks
What's with the 2 open holes on the cover??? I see light through one of the holes in your cover. Is there something that plugs them? When I spin mine, I feel air come out of them. Seems odd. Is yours the same?
Hayek Bastiat this should be completely sealed. When you turn the pump the air should only escape from tubes leaving the pump
@@rafaelmeneses5066 so you're saying both holes were open on your cover but sealed when cover was assembled onto pump? I could look through the center hole and see the veins passing by. Pump is runnin in truck right now. Minor noise, not seized. Havnt driven yet
Did it work? I have a 96 F150 w/ a 4.9 and my air pump is making a noise like bb's in a coffee can. I'd like to fix or replace it before it seizes up and leaves me stranded. I can't find one though.
Michael Boykin to be honest it reduced the noise but did not eliminate it. To fix that I removed the vanes a month later. Its very quiet and no cel.
amazon.....
I installed a new one. It makes noise ;) Instead of bb's shaken in a can I now have crickets. The instructions (such as they were...) stated that it might make noises for a couple of months. BTW part# 32303 works if anyone is looking for a new one and can't find the suggested part number. I installed a new clutch and hydraulics. Did it by myself. Not a fun job alone.
Michael Boykin i went that route with the Bronco and after 4k miles it still chirps a little. Removing the vanes solved the noise problem on the F150. The unit provides little to no value to the truck but those who reside in Nazi emission states this solution may work as the component is not removed.
Any time you run into carbon buildup, can’t you use oven cleaner on it?
Do NOT never tried it but it sounds like it may work but it is a bit on the messy side.
Ummm what did it sound like when bad? Scraping sound? I have a bad rattle coming from what seems to be there...
Scraping and screeching is the noise. If a vane broke it could make that noise you speak of
@@rafaelmeneses5066 thanks..well I sprayed pentrating oil into the intake hose..it actually quieted down almost to no sound for a minute..then after a while it's back. Kind of a clunking noise. Remanufactured is $220... If they have it. I'm wondering about removing the vanes inside, letting jus the bearings spin...hmmm
@@MakerTools it’s a pain but you can do that. No CEL will come on if you are wondering.
@@rafaelmeneses5066 well it was froze solid today. Pulled it apart, rear bearing was blown out! I removed vanes..took awhile..but out. So only front bearing in place...hmmm. O'Reilly had one but has to be delivered NOT to a store! Probably case these are old and reman...and won't last. I'll decide what to do after running again...thanks
not a carbon build up, as you have no combustion taking place.
mike so then what is it? you don’t need combustion to have carbon.
It might be graphite powder. My Dodge air pump looks very similar and has some graphite spacers holding the sides of the wipers.
The air pump is on the other side
What type of Grease did you use to squeeze into the rear bearing
Michael Everett you need wheel bearing grease.
Iithium
If you have a seized pump then replacing the front bearing behind the fan is a big chore. That bearing is sealed in some kind of epoxy which needs to be cut out with a dremel. These pumps were made that way cause the pumps were meant to be a consumable item. Mine is currently off the car and seized after making two 6k hits. I just wish that front bearing was serviceable. There’s a rebuild place a little over 1 hr from. Last yr they said it would cost roughly $300 CAD, and that’s if they don’t break anything while they take it apart. I sort of want to tackle this because of the $300 and the front bearing makes me not want to do it. My car is all stock and matching numbers so I don’t want a Remanufactured pump or a different yr used or rebuilt pump.
John Milner is get some used ones for parts if you want the original to stay with the car. Mechanically they are all the same. The housings varied but the internals were the same. Good luck.
I DO NOT, see the Next video, saying if it worked or not??? TOO MANY Video makers / posters, do NOT tell you in the vid you are watching, IF IT WORKS!.... OR NOT!
Mark W good question. I’ve done this 2 times It did reduce the noise in one to a point I am okay with it. My one didn’t work as well and I pulled the vanes out so there is no noise. I still think it’s worth a try because it will only take about an hour to complete.
Muy bien!!! Gracias Amigo!! 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍
te funciono asta ahora?