I can honestly say excellent is an understatement. I just love how he's very thorough about his explanations probably one of the best bike mechanics I've ever seen.
You should get an Oscar for the best instruction videos on the internet. The world would be a better place if all companies would so clear + concise about their products and how to use them!
This video really helped me with replacement of two old square taper spindles by cartridges. The comments on care to avoid crossthread, use of threadlocker & grease, & torque were especially valuable. One lesson learned - The BB shell of older and cheaper bikes may be out of round, complicating the process of installing the cartridge.
This channel, and Calvin in particular, has been an amazing resource. I have learned to do virtually all the basic maintenance on my entire family's bi,es and install a new group set on mine. However, the Park Tool threaded bottom bracket tool (BBT-32) was a fail, mainly because the Shimano bottom bracket drive side was poorly cast and the tool wouldn't stay on - a competitor's product had a piece to hold their tool on and it and finished the job in less than a minute. The existence of said tool and recommendations across the internet imply that this is a common problem.
Calvin, you are the man and the instructions that you provide on this any many other topics are pure gold. There are a lot of hacks out there but you are the true diamond. Thank you for sharing of your experience with the masses.
Wow, thanks about the turning directions. I was struggling to turn counterclockwise on chain side in order to disassemble it and before making any mistake I said: let’s check youtube
I can’t thank you guys enough for making these videos. I’ve been able to do most bike wrenching myself thanks to you guys! Easily some of the best instructional videos out there
Thanks guys for all the help. I've decided I needed something to stay busy bought an gt avalanche needed some love with the help of you guys and Bermpeak I've been able to learn something different buy kinda the same. Cheers.
Yeah, I admit. I first just tried to remove the drive side - and it wouldn't come loose - just slip. Tried the non-drive side, but my confidence was lower, and it slipped, whatever way I tried. I then set the bike down on the ground, and tried a different, better fitting tool. It slipped once, so I gave up and watched this video. That did it! Did the NON-DRIVE side, normal thread, then the DRIVE SIDE (reverse thread).
Here's a tip for when the old cup is really stuck, on a bike with cartridge bearings and square taper crank fitting: put the Park Tool in place and put a bolt (M8 *fine* x 40mm) through it and into the thread for the crank retaining bolt. Tighten this hand tight and then put a 32mm deep socket on a breaker bar over the Park Tool. You will be able to crack the cup unstuck and once it's moving a bit you can slacken off the retaining bolt as the tool will now be in much less danger of slipping out and damaging something. This has worked for me in the past, though if the cups are *really* badly stuck you may have to resort to the heavy brigade - angle grinder and drill.
To prevent cross-threading the cartridge, one nice trick is to install the hollow cup (left side) first hand-tight. Then install the cartridge from the right side, so it will automatically center when it goes through the hollow cup on far side of BB, thus preventing cross-threading. Then back out the hollow cup, tighten the cartridge, then the hollow cup. This tip from Sam Tracy's "Bicycle: A Repair and Maintenance Manifesto, 2nd Ed, page 159.
Thank you, I have a Steel Frame that came with aluminum Bottom Bracket Cups, after 6,000 miles all year riding in Michigan, the cups were eaten away on both sides, I put them back together with Anti-Seize compound, electrolysis is a big problem not mentioned, With Alum/Steel electrolysis a probem, grease works ok, but I have more faith in anti-seize, I owned semi trucks for many yrs with alum wheels and steel lug nuts, if you didn't anti-seize them you payed for it when it was time to remove the wheels. its not a lube, its water soluable, it can stand temps up to 1800 degrees, great for automotive/big truck exhaust. lubes don't do that, bikes don't get that hot, but they do seize. Happy Trails
@@youtubesafename123 I remember when GCN did a ‘fix squeaky seatpost’ video and the seat post they used to demonstrate it was some teardrop carbon fibre aero thing. Ridiculous.
Got around to doing this today, never removed a bottom bracket before. BB would not come off until I sprayed some WD40 penetrant; came off like nothing after that. If the cranks and whatnot don't fly off after like a month, then I'm guessing I got the torque stuff right. This video surely helped, and easy to follow directions.
I could not get my Shimano BBUN 26 bottom bracket loose using the Park Tool BBT-32 tool. I tried a14" adjustable wrench. But the splines on the bracket are very shallow and the BBT-32 kept slipping off. Then I tried putting the BBT-32 in a 32mm shallow socket on top of some washers to get the tool's splines above the top of the socket and used a1/2" ratchet, then a 1/2" x18" breaker bar. It still kept slipping off. Finally I used my Milwaukee 1/4" driver and that worked like a charm. It beat on it for a couple of seconds and then spun it right off. i don't know if this is an approved method but it does allow you to keep pressing the BBT-32 into the splines and not allowing it to slip off.
Good video. Thanks for pointing out all the variables (length, dia, threading) of the components I need to replace. Now I just wish I'd watched the video *BEFORE* disassembling the BB. When I was cleaning the spindle I noticed that one side was longer than the other. Now i don't know where the longer side goes. I'm guessing I'll notice a difference in the clearance between the crank arms and chainstays when I re-assemble.
I'm tearing down an old hybrid bike of mine and made the mistake of just looking at one of the sides before ordering the tool I needed. The non-drive side bracket has three notches and the drive-side has two flats. I was shocked to see this after I got the non-drive side off first. Luckily, I had just bought a wrench that just barely fit onto those two flats. But, I'm not sure if I did something wrong again because a bunch of bearings came pouring out when I removed the drive side bracket...
Hey, excellent content as always but I have a question. Shimano’s notice says don’t use grease on the tread when the cup is made of plastic, do you recommend that and most importantly why ? Thanks !
Grease is to form a barrier between dissimilar metals such as aluminium and steel but if your bb is plastic then there’s no reaction going on so it isn’t needed.
Thank's a Lot !!! your video's are excellent!!!! I'm learning to fix anything on my bike and also on my friend's bike. Plus my love for bike's grow more and more Thank's Calvin!!:-)
Thank you Calvin for the series of awesome videos. Question: o have a good torque wrench that I use all the time, but didn’t realize that it doesn’t torque left turning items. So I couldn’t torque down the bottom bracket setup I did my best. Does the Parktool Torque wrench work in both directions? Thank you
My crankset broke and I'm learning how to replace the bottom bracket with it as well. Thanks for having so much information online. I disabled add blocker to try and support the channel somehow. Keep up the great content!:)
Thank you very much for this concise, yet thoroughly informative video! I was able to tune up all the bikes at my house with basic tools. You’ve saved me a bunch of money and the bikes are better than ever!
Typically the plastic sleeve is to protect from dust or from internal cables rubbing on the spindle. There will not typically be an issue with not running the sleeve.
Best bike maintenance chanel, period. Quick question: My bike is full Ultegra 6500, meaning it has Octalink v1, is it possible to use Octalink v2 on same cranks? Thanks
Thanks for the video. It cleared up some confusion. Do you happen to have a video on how to remove the bearings from (e.g. Hope) threaded thru-spindle cups? Bearing (no pun intended) in mind I do not have the professional tools. Is there an effective DIY way to remove them and then somehow press new bearings back in, rather than knocking them back in? Thanks 😃
Nice video, I've got a 7 year old Apollo Feud Mountain bike the bearings in the crankcase have worn out making the pedals wobbly so I need to replace the bearings where the pedal cranks go, But I don't know What Type of bearings set up would I need for it? Might it be a new bottom end bracket cartridge type or one of the other types of ball bearings crankcase/bottom end bracket types, and what tools would I need to get the job done.
Hi and thank you for these helpful and such well made videos. I have noises coming from the bottom bracket when I do not pedal...any ideas? It's a relatively new bike, 300 KMS.. thanks in advance for your help.
At 3.28m you say turn counterclockwise for Italian threadings. My Specialized Rockhopper has no indication numbering on ring and drive side is REVERSE threaded, which I understand is more common. Tried normal for a while until figured CAN"T BE! then reversed it off. The curse of Proprietary parts. No damage done All good in the end.
I need advice want use park tool threadlocker on bb thread stop coming Slightly loose thread are good condition coz I can put both bb fully in with my hand pretty easy. Was thinking how possible use threadlocker and anti seize at same time?
You should pick one or the other. The anti seize will prevent the thread locker from doing anything and the thread locker will dilute the anti seize. If you have a bottom bracket that keeps coming loose I would recommend using thread locker. Be sure to torque the driveside and then the non drive side. And if it still continues to happen you may need to have your bottom bracket faced to ensure proper fitment.
@@parktool Thanks for advice I will use park tool TLR 1 medium strength threadlocker and use park tool torque wrench and put 50NM do u know how long takes to dry up? Before riding bike I guess 24 hours
7:28 i got a cartridge w/a plastic cap on one side (the 'left' side, the 'non-drive' side). is it okay? or am i better get a replacement with both metal caps?
@@parktool you mean, the side the plastic cap is on does not matter? my other confusion was about the adjustment. i guess, w/cartridges there's not need 4 a 'cup&cone' adjustment, right? the only thing 2 pay attention 2 is making sure there's not 'play' (i.e., the cartridge is not loose in the bottom bracket), correct?
@@nskmda The plastic cup typically will go on the left or non drive side (like you said). There is no adjustment for a cartridge bottom bracket. Just be sure there is no play and that the spindle spins smoothly.
I came here to make sure the way to turn the bottom bracket and of course I got one bike which got an opposite threads on BB. I broke in the frame... but it is sorted I just didn't expected
Are the thread types of bottom brackets interchangeable, are the threads in the shell the same size? I currently have a cartridge square taper and I would like to install a threaded hollow BB so I can then fit a cracker with integrated 24mm axel.
The threads of the frame shell are mostly "BSA", in a 1.375" x 24tpi thread standard. You can replace the entire crankset with the integrated spindle style.
Thanks for mentioning the 'Cup and Cone' bottom brackets straight off the bat buddy. I didn't even know what that type is called. That's the type I'm trying to learn about. Nice one fella.
6:22 can you regrease both bearings on that type of bracket? I have something like that but I couldn't get to the bearing covered by that threaded plastic thing :(
Bought a walmart bike.....just trying to tighten the bottom up. It has knocking sounds and some wiggle to it. I doubt the bearings are shot. Its brand new. I did get to buy some new tools. Thats always fun.
Thank you very much for the video! It helped a lot! But who the hell came up with all these variations of this stupid ass bicycle part? Have been having a hard time with it for the last 2 days. Thanks again for your instructions!
Are threaded thru BB spindle interchangeable with cartridges?? I am wondering whether I can swap my shimano cartridge BB-UN300 by a compatible threaded thru BB. Any tips for compatibility? I want to upgrade from the square taped! Thank you!! Very good video btw!!
You can very much upgrade to a two piece style thru spindle crank. You will still use threaded bottom bracket cups. The cus will depend on the crank that you choose. Most cranks are compatible with threaded bottom brackets.
Great and very usefull video! Just a simple question, what is the purpose of those spacers? I took my bike to my local shop to replace the bottom bracket ( replaced mt500 for a mt800) and just noticed that they put the 2 spacers on the right side but none on the left, when I asked they said there was no problem with that but I was still concerned about it, and even in the shimano page they indicate to place one spacer on the left, will that cause any issues?
Interesting that they have it setup with 2 on the drive and none on the non drive. Typically there will be one on the drive side to account for what is called an E-Type front derailleur or bash guard. Then, (if a 68mm bottom bracket shell) they will run an additional spacer on both sides for a total of 3 if a 68mm or 1 if a 73mm shell.
@@parktool Thanks a lot for your answer! They already corrected that because it seems the technician forgot about it and the crank spindle was moving side to side, so the other spacer corrected that problem ( my bottom bracket shell is 68mm), I purchased the Deore M6100 1x12, but the right crank arm slightly touches the chainstay the moment I apply pressure on the left pedal and more when going uphill, does that mean I need a different crankset? Any advise in regards to that? I ride a hardtail by the way.
@@parktool hi the threads on my bottom bracket got badly damaged in a accident, my frame has the bearing cups, I rode my bike after replacing both cups and the treads both pulled during my next ride, could you show anyway of repair for this damage. The cups push in now.
I have an old bike that i wanted to renew, but when disassembling it i noticed the brackets on the drive side of the shell go counter-clockwise to remove (and clockwise to tighten) so conventional parts as cartridge bottom bracket (i had bought one with integrated spindle) do not fit, do you guys happen to know if there are available some integrated cartridges that are compatible with my bike? (The model is a Rabasa Panther Mach II, is a bikecross/bmx like bicycle from 80-90s)
I have a question (GREAT vid by the way!). I am doing the TruVativ conversion kit to go from ABB to BSA. The TruVativ cups and my euro BB are both aluminum. I would lean toward thread locker (options 1 and 2 in your vid) but in a GCN vid on lubes Simon mentions aluminum bolts are prone to seizing. So if the TruVativ adapter and my BB are aluminum should I use ASC-1 instead of thread locker? Same question for snazzy aluminum chainring bolts I bought (where I would have used threadlocker)...PPL-1, threadlocker, or ASC-1 for those as well?
Kinda depends. The RC compound/ thread locker is going to give seperation between the bottom bracket material and the frame material. So will the ASC-1. If the fit is a nice pressfit then i would go ASC-1 but if the interface is loose i would suggest going to RC-1. Check out this video. ua-cam.com/video/W9zPkrCtWEM/v-deo.html&t
This guy is an excellent instructor
You fucking said it dude. This worked instantly.
I know!
If a Park Tool video isn't presented by Calvin, then I won't watch it 🤣🤣
I can honestly say excellent is an understatement. I just love how he's very thorough about his explanations probably one of the best bike mechanics I've ever seen.
Yes I agree! I teach college lecturers and this is an excellent example of effective teaching/instruction.
The best!!!
You should get an Oscar for the best instruction videos on the internet.
The world would be a better place if all companies would so clear + concise about their products and how to use them!
This channel is so comprehensive, so clear and its free, i'm amazed that a resource like this exists today
godzillaisnuclea123 Drives the market of both shop service training, and DIY monkeys like me. I love working on my bikes.
it really is so amazing
Mission accomplished!!
Bottom bracket replaced ultra annoying noise gone!!
Thank you
Try z4 ,$A wax x
I'm one Calvin Jones away from complete helplessness. Thank heaven for this man!
We must protect Calvin Jones at all cost.
The reincarnation of Sheldon Brown!
This video really helped me with replacement of two old square taper spindles by cartridges. The comments on care to avoid crossthread, use of threadlocker & grease, & torque were especially valuable. One lesson learned - The BB shell of older and cheaper bikes may be out of round, complicating the process of installing the cartridge.
@enriqueamaya3883 I talk to Jesus every time I deal with out of round BB's.
Another quality video clearly explaining the process. Calvin is a legend!
This channel, and Calvin in particular, has been an amazing resource. I have learned to do virtually all the basic maintenance on my entire family's bi,es and install a new group set on mine. However, the Park Tool threaded bottom bracket tool (BBT-32) was a fail, mainly because the Shimano bottom bracket drive side was poorly cast and the tool wouldn't stay on - a competitor's product had a piece to hold their tool on and it and finished the job in less than a minute. The existence of said tool and recommendations across the internet imply that this is a common problem.
I think a hint for the competitor tool would help a lot of people, so many got this problem.
Straight to the point no BS whatsoever. This is pure quality.
Calvin, you are the man and the instructions that you provide on this any many other topics are pure gold. There are a lot of hacks out there but you are the true diamond. Thank you for sharing of your experience with the masses.
How many are here just to remember which way to turn a BB.
😂
Me!!!
So me!
🙋
Lol yes😂
This video makes me want to personally thank the people who made it. Not many videos do that.
Wow, thanks about the turning directions. I was struggling to turn counterclockwise on chain side in order to disassemble it and before making any mistake I said: let’s check youtube
Love your videos mate. You're clear, concise and easy to follow. You've helped me out many times with my bikes.
@enriqueamaya3883 Does Jesus need help with his bicycle too?
I can’t thank you guys enough for making these videos. I’ve been able to do most bike wrenching myself thanks to you guys!
Easily some of the best instructional videos out there
Thanks guys for all the help. I've decided I needed something to stay busy bought an gt avalanche needed some love with the help of you guys and Bermpeak I've been able to learn something different buy kinda the same. Cheers.
Yeah, I admit. I first just tried to remove the drive side - and it wouldn't come loose - just slip. Tried the non-drive side, but my confidence was lower, and it slipped, whatever way I tried. I then set the bike down on the ground, and tried a different, better fitting tool. It slipped once, so I gave up and watched this video. That did it! Did the NON-DRIVE side, normal thread, then the DRIVE SIDE (reverse thread).
Here's a tip for when the old cup is really stuck, on a bike with cartridge bearings and square taper crank fitting: put the Park Tool in place and put a bolt (M8 *fine* x 40mm) through it and into the thread for the crank retaining bolt. Tighten this hand tight and then put a 32mm deep socket on a breaker bar over the Park Tool. You will be able to crack the cup unstuck and once it's moving a bit you can slacken off the retaining bolt as the tool will now be in much less danger of slipping out and damaging something. This has worked for me in the past, though if the cups are *really* badly stuck you may have to resort to the heavy brigade - angle grinder and drill.
To prevent cross-threading the cartridge, one nice trick is to install the hollow cup (left side) first hand-tight. Then install the cartridge from the right side, so it will automatically center when it goes through the hollow cup on far side of BB, thus preventing cross-threading. Then back out the hollow cup, tighten the cartridge, then the hollow cup. This tip from Sam Tracy's "Bicycle: A Repair and Maintenance Manifesto, 2nd Ed, page 159.
Thank you, I have a Steel Frame that came with aluminum Bottom Bracket Cups, after 6,000 miles all year riding in Michigan, the cups were eaten away on both sides, I put them back together with Anti-Seize compound, electrolysis is a big problem not mentioned, With Alum/Steel electrolysis a probem, grease works ok, but I have more faith in anti-seize, I owned semi trucks for many yrs with alum wheels and steel lug nuts, if you didn't anti-seize them you payed for it when it was time to remove the wheels. its not a lube, its water soluable, it can stand temps up to 1800 degrees, great for automotive/big truck exhaust. lubes don't do that, bikes don't get that hot, but they do seize. Happy Trails
Good to know, thanks. Will be adding a sram dub BB (aluminium Im pretty sure) to my steel bike and almost used grease. Will use anti-seize now.
Fantastic guide. So clearly presented and love the advice for those without a torque wrench and unusual greases!
I love how they don’t only use high end bikes, it shows how humble they are.
They kind of figure out that us who try to DIY repairs, don't usually have high end bikes.
It's like that in almost all their vids, as opposed to GCN tech videos, gotta love Park Tool.
@@youtubesafename123 I remember when GCN did a ‘fix squeaky seatpost’ video and the seat post they used to demonstrate it was some teardrop carbon fibre aero thing. Ridiculous.
4 years later and the video is still one of the best
Got around to doing this today, never removed a bottom bracket before. BB would not come off until I sprayed some WD40 penetrant; came off like nothing after that. If the cranks and whatnot don't fly off after like a month, then I'm guessing I got the torque stuff right.
This video surely helped, and easy to follow directions.
Thx for all the tutorials - I replaced a creaking bb with a new one. ❤😊🎉
I could not get my Shimano BBUN 26 bottom bracket loose using the Park Tool BBT-32 tool. I tried a14" adjustable wrench. But the splines on the bracket are very shallow and the BBT-32 kept slipping off. Then I tried putting the BBT-32 in a 32mm shallow socket on top of some washers to get the tool's splines above the top of the socket and used a1/2" ratchet, then a 1/2" x18" breaker bar. It still kept slipping off. Finally I used my Milwaukee 1/4" driver and that worked like a charm. It beat on it for a couple of seconds and then spun it right off. i don't know if this is an approved method but it does allow you to keep pressing the BBT-32 into the splines and not allowing it to slip off.
Another excellent Park Tool video, thank you.
Calvin saves the day, again!
High Quality Video. Many thanks for the good work. This is why I always try to buy ParkTool products.
this helped me fix my E-bike bottom bracket, incredibly useful.
Best repair guide i have ever seen.
These videos fill me with alot of confidence thank you
You guys are definitely the pro's, common sense and logic is great but nothing can replace experience
So helpful. I really appreciate all the instruction. Thank you!
These Park guys keep taking my money ...
I saved this great video for future reference. THANKS for all the help. Now maybe, I'll remember to pick up some tools from ur website.
Thanks for the video! this was super useful !!
Good video. Thanks for pointing out all the variables (length, dia, threading) of the components I need to replace. Now I just wish I'd watched the video *BEFORE* disassembling the BB. When I was cleaning the spindle I noticed that one side was longer than the other. Now i don't know where the longer side goes. I'm guessing I'll notice a difference in the clearance between the crank arms and chainstays when I re-assemble.
Excellent instructions
Mr. C is the best & lights, action, camera, edit, edit timing, filmography videos.
I'm tearing down an old hybrid bike of mine and made the mistake of just looking at one of the sides before ordering the tool I needed. The non-drive side bracket has three notches and the drive-side has two flats. I was shocked to see this after I got the non-drive side off first. Luckily, I had just bought a wrench that just barely fit onto those two flats. But, I'm not sure if I did something wrong again because a bunch of bearings came pouring out when I removed the drive side bracket...
Hey, excellent content as always but I have a question. Shimano’s notice says don’t use grease on the tread when the cup is made of plastic, do you recommend that and most importantly why ? Thanks !
Grease is to form a barrier between dissimilar metals such as aluminium and steel but if your bb is plastic then there’s no reaction going on so it isn’t needed.
Thank's a Lot !!! your video's are excellent!!!! I'm learning to fix anything on my bike and also on my friend's bike. Plus my love for bike's grow more and more Thank's Calvin!!:-)
Thank you for the free tutorials
Great instructions. To may different tools, Industry needs standardization for the components and frames. Just like the auto industry.
Thank you Calvin for the series of awesome videos.
Question: o have a good torque wrench that I use all the time, but didn’t realize that it doesn’t torque left turning items. So I couldn’t torque down the bottom bracket setup I did my best. Does the Parktool Torque wrench work in both directions? Thank you
Park Tool torque wrenches work for both CW and CCW directions.
@@parktoolthank you so much for the quick reply and info.
You are amazing, thank you so much for your help! The first one I have found that makes sense and is easy to understand. And 10/10 on the moustache!
Lots of Respect, couldn’t be better explain than this!!! Thumbs up 👍
My crankset broke and I'm learning how to replace the bottom bracket with it as well. Thanks for having so much information online. I disabled add blocker to try and support the channel somehow.
Keep up the great content!:)
Thank you very much for this concise, yet thoroughly informative video! I was able to tune up all the bikes at my house with basic tools. You’ve saved me a bunch of money and the bikes are better than ever!
Excellent reference 👌
Thanks for the video. What happens if you do not insert the plastic sleeve or the plastic sleeve is smaller than the required width?
Typically the plastic sleeve is to protect from dust or from internal cables rubbing on the spindle. There will not typically be an issue with not running the sleeve.
@@parktool Thanks a lot. Assembling my first bike, your videos are quite helpful. 👍🏾
Best bike maintenance chanel, period. Quick question: My bike is full Ultegra 6500, meaning it has Octalink v1, is it possible to use Octalink v2 on same cranks? Thanks
No. The depth of the splines vary. Do not interchange.
@@parktool thank you
I love you, Park Tool!
These videos are incredible.
4:54 "But if you have nothing else, at least use some grease..." - would somebody please tell bicycle manufacturers about this!
One time when I got new BB and wanted to go riding but didn't have any grease, I just used a butter as a replacement :)
@@madmartigan9720 In Italy we use diesel fuel
In France, we use mayonnaise
In New Zealand we use Aioli
in Mexico we use K-Y jelly...
Thanks - Really Helpful And Clearly And Simply Explained :D
Thanks Calvin! Trying to see if I can upgrade my old cartridge BB with a hollow-tech version of lighter weight.
mos comprehensive video on bottom brackets, nicely done!
Do you lubricate the crank when reassembling?
Very usefull video like many others in this channel. 👍
Whoever filmed this shit in 4k 5 years ago needs to be praised 😂
Thanks for the video. It cleared up some confusion. Do you happen to have a video on how to remove the bearings from (e.g. Hope) threaded thru-spindle cups? Bearing (no pun intended) in mind I do not have the professional tools. Is there an effective DIY way to remove them and then somehow press new bearings back in, rather than knocking them back in? Thanks 😃
Nice video, I've got a 7 year old Apollo Feud Mountain bike the bearings in the crankcase have worn out making the pedals wobbly so I need to replace the bearings where the pedal cranks go, But I don't know What Type of bearings set up would I need for it? Might it be a new bottom end bracket cartridge type or one of the other types of ball bearings crankcase/bottom end bracket types, and what tools would I need to get the job done.
Have a strange noise in my brand new Riff BB, probably gravel, now I know how to take it out and clean it.
the hardest part is knowing what you have and then getting the right tools.
Best BB explainer vid 👍
Hi and thank you for these helpful and such well made videos. I have noises coming from the bottom bracket when I do not pedal...any ideas? It's a relatively new bike, 300 KMS.. thanks in advance for your help.
Noises when you are not pedaling? Can you describe these noises and exactly when and how they are made?
Thank you for the detailed explanation
At 3.28m you say turn counterclockwise for Italian threadings. My Specialized Rockhopper has no indication numbering on ring and drive side is REVERSE threaded, which I understand is more common. Tried normal for a while until figured CAN"T BE! then reversed it off. The curse of Proprietary parts. No damage done All good in the end.
A Rockhopper will have a BSA bottom bracket which is reverse threaded on the drive side.
I need advice want use park tool threadlocker on bb thread stop coming Slightly loose thread are good condition coz I can put both bb fully in with my hand pretty easy. Was thinking how possible use threadlocker and anti seize at same time?
You should pick one or the other. The anti seize will prevent the thread locker from doing anything and the thread locker will dilute the anti seize. If you have a bottom bracket that keeps coming loose I would recommend using thread locker. Be sure to torque the driveside and then the non drive side. And if it still continues to happen you may need to have your bottom bracket faced to ensure proper fitment.
@@parktool Thanks for advice I will use park tool TLR 1 medium strength threadlocker and use park tool torque wrench and put 50NM do u know how long takes to dry up? Before riding bike I guess 24 hours
7:28 i got a cartridge w/a plastic cap on one side (the 'left' side, the 'non-drive' side). is it okay? or am i better get a replacement with both metal caps?
The plastic is perfectly fine for this purpose.
@@parktool you mean, the side the plastic cap is on does not matter?
my other confusion was about the adjustment.
i guess, w/cartridges there's not need 4 a 'cup&cone' adjustment, right?
the only thing 2 pay attention 2 is making sure there's not 'play' (i.e., the cartridge is not loose in the bottom bracket), correct?
@@nskmda The plastic cup typically will go on the left or non drive side (like you said). There is no adjustment for a cartridge bottom bracket. Just be sure there is no play and that the spindle spins smoothly.
@@parktool that's exactly what i was hoping 4. thanks 4 confirming.
Amazing video. I will just see a mistake on the conversion of the torque 30N.m is equal to 1.5kg at 20 cm. However, on the video, we see 15kg at 20cm.
Sir thank you I learn more to you
I came here to make sure the way to turn the bottom bracket and of course I got one bike which got an opposite threads on BB. I broke in the frame... but it is sorted I just didn't expected
nice video as usual. cool music too
What tool did you use to remove the Italian bottom bracket
Really useful thanks!
Calvin Jones in the realest MVP
Simply "The Best"
Are the thread types of bottom brackets interchangeable, are the threads in the shell the same size? I currently have a cartridge square taper and I would like to install a threaded hollow BB so I can then fit a cracker with integrated 24mm axel.
The threads of the frame shell are mostly "BSA", in a 1.375" x 24tpi thread standard. You can replace the entire crankset with the integrated spindle style.
Thanks for mentioning the 'Cup and Cone' bottom brackets straight off the bat buddy. I didn't even know what that type is called. That's the type I'm trying to learn about. Nice one fella.
Would it be better to get the outside sealed ones I feel like dirt will clog the outside threads
6:22 can you regrease both bearings on that type of bracket? I have something like that but I couldn't get to the bearing covered by that threaded plastic thing :(
Those bottom brackets are considered non serviceable unfortunately.
BB for my dream bike, surly straggler.
Bought a walmart bike.....just trying to tighten the bottom up. It has knocking sounds and some wiggle to it. I doubt the bearings are shot. Its brand new. I did get to buy some new tools. Thats always fun.
Thank you very much for the video! It helped a lot!
But who the hell came up with all these variations of this stupid ass bicycle part? Have been having a hard time with it for the last 2 days.
Thanks again for your instructions!
Great video. Thank you. :)
And thanks for vids... very helpful
OK, I have thread locker, anti-seize, and grease. Which should I use?
There are cases for each. If you have all 3 and no reason to use one over another I would recommend Anti seize.
Are threaded thru BB spindle interchangeable with cartridges?? I am wondering whether I can swap my shimano cartridge BB-UN300 by a compatible threaded thru BB. Any tips for compatibility? I want to upgrade from the square taped! Thank you!! Very good video btw!!
You can very much upgrade to a two piece style thru spindle crank. You will still use threaded bottom bracket cups. The cus will depend on the crank that you choose. Most cranks are compatible with threaded bottom brackets.
I have a VP cartridge style BB. Can you repair them? 10,000 miles on mine.
Great and very usefull video! Just a simple question, what is the purpose of those spacers? I took my bike to my local shop to replace the bottom bracket ( replaced mt500 for a mt800) and just noticed that they put the 2 spacers on the right side but none on the left, when I asked they said there was no problem with that but I was still concerned about it, and even in the shimano page they indicate to place one spacer on the left, will that cause any issues?
Interesting that they have it setup with 2 on the drive and none on the non drive. Typically there will be one on the drive side to account for what is called an E-Type front derailleur or bash guard. Then, (if a 68mm bottom bracket shell) they will run an additional spacer on both sides for a total of 3 if a 68mm or 1 if a 73mm shell.
@@parktool Thanks a lot for your answer! They already corrected that because it seems the technician forgot about it and the crank spindle was moving side to side, so the other spacer corrected that problem ( my bottom bracket shell is 68mm), I purchased the Deore M6100 1x12, but the right crank arm slightly touches the chainstay the moment I apply pressure on the left pedal and more when going uphill, does that mean I need a different crankset? Any advise in regards to that? I ride a hardtail by the way.
@@parktool hi the threads on my bottom bracket got badly damaged in a accident, my frame has the bearing cups, I rode my bike after replacing both cups and the treads both pulled during my next ride, could you show anyway of repair for this damage. The cups push in now.
Hello Brazil!
Brazilian
Hi where can I order the bike tools like you
Used thanks
Do some thread cups not use the internal spacer?
Correct, but those are actually sleeves. Some do not use any sleeve between cups.
HI I doing a couplet bike build. So how do I know if I need spacers on the BB?
I have an old bike that i wanted to renew, but when disassembling it i noticed the brackets on the drive side of the shell go counter-clockwise to remove (and clockwise to tighten) so conventional parts as cartridge bottom bracket (i had bought one with integrated spindle) do not fit, do you guys happen to know if there are available some integrated cartridges that are compatible with my bike? (The model is a Rabasa Panther Mach II, is a bikecross/bmx like bicycle from 80-90s)
I have a question (GREAT vid by the way!). I am doing the TruVativ conversion kit to go from ABB to BSA. The TruVativ cups and my euro BB are both aluminum. I would lean toward thread locker (options 1 and 2 in your vid) but in a GCN vid on lubes Simon mentions aluminum bolts are prone to seizing. So if the TruVativ adapter and my BB are aluminum should I use ASC-1 instead of thread locker? Same question for snazzy aluminum chainring bolts I bought (where I would have used threadlocker)...PPL-1, threadlocker, or ASC-1 for those as well?
Kinda depends. The RC compound/ thread locker is going to give seperation between the bottom bracket material and the frame material. So will the ASC-1. If the fit is a nice pressfit then i would go ASC-1 but if the interface is loose i would suggest going to RC-1. Check out this video. ua-cam.com/video/W9zPkrCtWEM/v-deo.html&t
@@parktool Thank you for the quick reply!