Square Taper Bottom Bracket; Removal & Installation. What You Need To Know.
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- Опубліковано 11 лип 2024
- If you're looking to change your bike's bottom bracket, you may be wondering what you need to know. In this episode of Toolbox Topic, we'll go over everything you need to know about removing and installing a square tapered bottom bracket.
With this video, you'll be able to remove and install a square tapered bottom bracket with ease. There are two specialty tools required, though they are a minimal cost. So don't wait any longer, and watch this video to learn everything you need to know about this necessary bike upgrade!
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You also might want to mention that the inside nut(closet to the frame) should be tightened on your BB puller, otherwise if it's not tight enough you can strip the threads in the crank. And there truly is a torque setting for that square taper BB. Thanks for sharing!!
Jackie, thank you for taking the time to watch and point this fact out in your comments. I know we appreciate it, as will as our viewers.
You forgot to mention that any grease should be wiped off the spindle square taper and the inside of the crank arm square hole. This should be a dry fit. A bit of grease on the fixing bolt threads is fine.
You should also check the cranks bolts after the first couple rides as the cranks settle and they need to be snugged up.
Really friendly, fun and educational video. The atmosphere of video is really nice.
Thank you, my friend, for taking the time to watch as well as leaving your feedback. Both are important to us, especially the feedback. It's helped shape our channel.
A very very good video, all the info I needed!!!!!!!!
Brilliant video. Clear and concise, cheers.
Thank you, Johny, for taking the time to watch and leave your feedback. Both are sincerely appreciated.
Agreed. I was looking for this on UA-cam and it was reduced to so easy. I wasn't expecting the BB to be an inexpensive throw-away replacement part like that. In my case I'm not having any problems other than having worn out yet another set of front gears, the bike is 20 years old, so thought maybe the BB should be looked at and cleaned.
Thank you! Great tutorial! I can fix any car, however, have never before worked with a bike :)
Thank you for the feedback, my friend, as well as watching the video. It's always a little daunting at first, but once the mystery is taken out of the process, it's usually straightforward.
My bottom bracket is ultra seized, learning how to undo it without ruining something.
Great video.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave feedback, my friend.
I recently bought 2 bike repair stands from Amazon. The first one, by RockBROS at $38, I sent back because it couldn't hold my heaviest bike BY THE SEATPOST, without letting the front wheel go down to within a couple inches of the floor. A defective design, IMO. (It probably could've held it by the top tube, (which wasn't too wide), but I was concerned it MAY, while adjusting, compress my shifting or brake cables, enough to affect shifting characteristics). So, after taking pictures and writing a review, and getting an unhelpful reply from the manufacturer, I sent that back, and bought a $48 West Biking Bike Repair Stand, that is capable of holding up to 88 lbs., and you can either attach to a wall (probably not the best if you have sheetrock), attach to a wooden workbench (as I did, on top of two 2x4 scraps, using deck screws that I drilled first, to avoid splits), or to a scrap piece of wood, and held in a vice, as some have done. If you're careful to mount it ~a couple inches out from your workbench, depending on your specific one, as well as bike, you can avoid pedal strikes - because, afterall, one of the benefits of having a Repair Stand, is being able to spin the rear wheel by pedaling, in order to adjust the shifting, or rear brakes. A Repair Stand like this still means you have to lift the bike, to put it in the Stand, and while holding it, tighten the clamp - which takes a few seconds and many turns, because it's not a Quick Connect design. But I put my car ramps in place, to reduce how far I had to lift it. Big difference in bike maintenance, by having a Stand!
There are so many different sizes and types of bottom bracket. My 1992 Zaskar uses 73 shell size, English thread. Since the cranks are Deore XT M730 SG, the spindle length is 122.5mm. It took a long time to work all this out before buying the parts.
Yes, there are. I am waiting for my new BB to arrive for my Fuel EX 9.9 so we can do a video on that style. Thank you for watching, my friend, and your continued support.
20:58 "Loosening is always forward. Loosening is always backwards."
Yeah, a couple people have pointed that out. He gets tongue-tied now and again. 😉
On the Shimano un300 bottom bracket, does the inside of the crank seat up against the chain stabilize collar?
8:56 - For an instructional video, he makes a cloudy confusing attempt at articulating the thread orientation. The drive side on these is left hand threaded, NOT “lefty-loosie, righty-tighty,” as he seems to echo. That is only the case on the removable cup on the NON drive side.
Hey Chris, we appreciate the feedback. Sometimes Brandon does have difficulty articulating himself, good intentions aside. Ut's something that we continue to work on.
What is approx tightening torque for non-drive side? Is it the same as for drive side? Shimano installation manual recommends 50-70Nm without mentioning anything about sides. 50-70 Nm for non-drive side might be too much because it does not have a flange.
We're sorry for the delayed response. Brandon and I are both traveling. That being said, yes, typically it is the same. However, a little prudence is always advised because, as you said, the non-drive side does not have a flange. We appreciate you watching and asking your question, my friend.
👍
Thank you for watching my friend.
Note, if you put the outside rings to tight, it will make the bottom bracket spin less smooth, i tightend mine way to hard, had to loosen them a bit.
Thank you for watching my friend and for adding to the conversation. Both are appreciated.
I'm still waiting for a tool, but... My bike is a very old Schwinn Montague folding bike. Made around 1980? or so... I can't get the drive side cup off. Are both sides loosen forward? Like the non-drive side lefty loosy, drive side righty loosy?
Yikes, I believe you are correct about that, Charlie. I'm not sure where in AZ you live, but if you continue to have issues loosening the drive side, call the shop or stop by so we can loosen it for you, and you can complete the task yourself.
I'm sorry it took so long to respond. Brandon and I have both been on the road.
@@GetOutArizona No problem. The wrench I ordered was the wrong size... So, went to HF and got a bigger crescent wrench. It came off without too much trouble. It was clockwise to loosen. I have two quick questions: I don't have a caliper, but my spindle is around 133 mm. I can find a cartridge or a new one larger than 127.5 mm. The spindle race has a slight ding in it. A very small dent. Can I get by with just new bearings? Or, should I replace it? Would a 127.5 work? Also, I've seen videos of replacing the caged bearings with individual free bearings. Is that ok to do? Thank you for your reply and the video! Rick, in Tucson.
please list the wrench used. I can't find any part that will fit that .
There is this
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and there is this
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I hope this is the answer you were looking for my, my friend. Thank you for watching.
So torque doesn't matter on any of this?
Hey Alex, that you for asking this question as well as watching our video. In speaking to Brandon again on this subject, we both agreed that while you may be able to find a torque spec for this, it is not essential as it is on other procedures on the bike. Making sure it is good and tight with a little extra "oomph" is more than adequate.
Torque matters, but as both the square taper axle and crank retaining screw are steel, you'll have to go a lot higher here than anywhere else to strip the threads. Elsewhere the fasteners are either (a) a lot smaller and/or (b) softer aluminum, so the torque limits are far less.
@@wildbikerbill6530 Over tightening your crank bolts can cause the tapers to go to far into the crank arms as they are soft metal and bottom out on the axle tapers which can cause the crank arms to not fit tight and wobble wrecking your crank arms. Every time you remove and replace your crank arms you wear the taper holes some and over tightening just makes it worse.
Always looks rough when the adjustable spanner gets used.... It's a last resort tool.
Yes, “loosing is always forward and loosing backwards.” Smfh, so you don’t say? ……………………..
Yeah, sometimes Brandon makes a grammatical goof. We try are best not to, but it happens now and again. Thanks for watching, my friend, and leaving your comments. Both are appreciated.