Love how Coby checks the brakes every now and then to see if they're still biting or there's some fading going on while going on the straights when he's soon to go for a hard braking Edit: Thanks to you guys, i learned that it's to get rid of Brake knockback, which means pushing the brake pads closer to the rotors so the response is more instant when needing to use the brakes, still fun to see it happening out of sheer force of habit
@@dearlove88 could be that as well, i'm no pro either, but what's true is that Coby's doing something with the brakes before using them mid race, that's for sure
so hes not checking the breaks, in driving the car the breaks push the pads away and by him tapping the breaks it brings it right back so when he goes to use them it right there with no delay
Almost none of the comments were highlighted to shame the commenter. A lot of viewers are younger or just not involved in mechanical aspects of cars enough to know what's realistic. But some of the comments are goofy.
Huge fan of the MR2 and Marc's work. I hope you don't have to give up on the car to stay competitive, but ultimately I get that losing because your tool isn't fit for the job sucks. Good luck finding why the car lost so much power and hope you can make the car competitive.
I have a 2ZZ/C65/LSD Spyder that I race here in Australia so I am definitely behind you holding on to the car! What is interesting though is how you choose to NOT run a rear wing. When I took my aero off the car had such poor balance I went straight back in to the pit to put it back on (although a greater straight line advantage without it). I believe once you get your power/weight balance correct and you sort out your stability issues, you will absolutely fly. Keep it up guys! 😎
same observation here too.. With the wing, the car can be mechanically loose at low speed (already is), and more safe / understeery in the high speed sections? Ben Lin, got a big (wing) reveal soon? :D :D
Absolutely love the quotes on the livery. And also the dedication to making this build work. So much respect to you Ben for not listening to all the hate and doing a k swap or whatever everyone’s suggesting. You’ll get it there, I have faith in you buddy. Keep up the good work 🤙🏻
And this is exactly why he's failing k series better engine easy 50hp more better transmission, diff ect if he's trying to be competitive u can already see this car has reached its limit and its still at the back if he wants to be competitive unfortunately its gotta go and might aswell of done it in the first place this ben never wants to go k series tho and that'll be the downfall this time
@@devonboss3733 Or stick with what the lotus used: a supercharged 2ZZ . But, most of us are just keyboard warriors (I am) and I couldn't even dream of what Ben has already accomplished.
the comments really resembles how the car community looks today, most of it anyway.... "oh something is broken, i cant be bothered to replace it so ill just buy a new car"
Why run a Haltech ECU, and not use the wideband closed loop feature with long term fuel trims? Any shifts in fueling are corrected for immediately by the PID control so the motor has correct fueling. Consistent fueling 101 for a Track Car!
Yup, tune the car in open loop, then turn on closed loop 100% of the time, same why I did mine on Hondata. Either way you have to trust the O2 sensor, so it's almost a no brainer nowadays.
That and running a MAF on a racecar then wondering why the fuelling is all over the place... Fuck the MAF off, tune it speed density, enable closed loop, sorted.
@@JamesBalazs What's the problem with running a MAF to meter in air? Assuming the MAF is placed in a laminar flow environment I don't really understand why it would be worse?
@@asian4747 they're inaccurate at higher flow rates (although maybe higher than the MRS will ever see). Great for low flow at idle / cruise to help get the AFR right for emissions / economy, but not great for accurately, consistently making top end power. Need a separate IAT sensor for baro/temp correction, thus temperature changes you haven't tuned for will cause you to make less power. Intake leaks will affect fuelling moreso than when running MAP based fuelling since you have unmetered air. MAF can be contaminated by oiled filters and gives incorrect readings as a result. If the intake is modified near the MAF, since the factory MAF calibration is the voltage vs kg/hr of the MAF "with the factory intake tract" specifically, so it's not going to be accurate and you have to work around that *everywhere else* in the tune. People will argue this isn't the case or doesn't matter, but I've owned cars that run like shit with an induction kit fitted and no tune, since the MAF calibration is no longer accurate - not something you want to cause you headaches on a race car. OEMs used them when widebands were 5x more expensive and less common decades ago, and the narrowband O2 sensor can only read cruise / idle AFRs around 14:1 for emissions purposes. Nowadays, especially if you already have a wideband and a standalone, I can't fathom why you wouldn't use what is universally accepted as a better fuelling model (MAP based VE vs MAF) other than a rush to get the car ready without removing the MAF and fitting a MAP sensor.
As an owner of both a 2ZZ and K20 MR-S... Bite the bullet and get a wing, 9 Lives Racing is insane bang for buck. I was wrestling with the same Torsen issues and had to modulate the throttle a lot on exits not to light up the inside tire... And now those issues are gone on both cars, even in tight low speed corners. Bury the throttle before the apex and forget it, the rear is planted. It almost feels like cheating on this chassis - I dropped 3 full seconds on a 90 second track. After tires, a wing is the best bang for buck mod on this platform, no doubt about it any more. IIRC the rules didn't punish aero that much, but the way you can drive with confidence is worth it. Bonus trivia: contrary to popular belief, a wing on a low power car doesn't necessarily mean lower top speeds on track. Due to faster cornering speeds, earlier throttle and thus way faster exits, I am 5-7 kph faster with a wing at EVERY SINGLE braking point on the tracks in my country. The drag-to-speed tradeoff happens way later with a good wing than the speeds you reach on most tracks.
I have no doubt you'll get everything sorted with this car and turn it into a pretty competitive car in gltc. After seeing what you were able to do with the evo and all the development not only with the car itself but as a driver as well, I have no doubt you will start climbing the ladder. Keep it up Ben!
I think this has been mentioned but, since you've got to throw a bunch of weight at it anyway, I would definitely say that stiffening the chassis as much as you possibly can is the way to go, as opposed to dead ballast just siting there
Don’t give up on this build Ben, I love it! I’ve been fighting issues on my own 2ZZ swap and surprisingly, some of the issues have been related to air trapped in the cooling system. I’m looking forward to future episodes!
@@omarawilson2853 I followed a guide that had been posted to Spyderchat. I'm honestly not sure how closely it matches the official Toyota procedure. One minor quirk is that I have an aftermarket radiator and the bleeder design is a bit different than stock. I think I have it sorted at the moment, but there are still some intermittent idle issues. Thank you for replying.
@@The_Stick odd. I have a Celica and the Bleeding procedure is quite straightforward, I too have an aftermarket radiator. These engine are pretty easy to bleed. I wonder what could be the hang up with urs
Are you bleeding it 1st before turning over the engine and making sure the cap is off? The moment you get one mistake you can end up doing the bleed procedure 2-3x or more to get it right again
Instead of adding ballast for weight penalty, consider taking the weight as lsd and much more rear wheel and tire. Put the tire where the weight is. Mid engine driving and setup is completely different than ff or fr cars. More rear wheel and tire is the same as adding wing if the tires are sticky and on temp. It will allow power to be applied sooner mid corner and brake later but without the penalties associated with a wing. Also the McPherson strut love camber lots of camber because it looses camber as the suspension compresses. Take temps across the tire and dial in camber to even the temps. And for goodness sakes get and alignemnt with .1 or .2 degree toe IN rear.
Have you considered on rear sway bar on why the rear is lifting? My friend with an mr2 has same issue and he’s suspecting it to be the sway bar lifting the tire rather than the diff being the problem.
That’s the issue though, whether it’s lifting the tire or not the open diff is still going to cause problems with stability and traction. Especially when exiting any camber on turns, which will lift a tire and burn that one. An LSD or even just welding the diff would guarantee that the wheels are both getting basically full power split in half to each. Then even if a wheel is lifted the other one contacting the ground can keep putting forward momentum in without losing traction nearly as easily. There is a reason that diffs are usually something that is done very early or even many cars that already have a pretty decent oem lsd. Civic Si’s have LSD’s, as do the Type R’s, Exige/Elise’s have LSD’s on most models, the Evora as well, hell it’s even on many trucks that have a tendency to lift wheels when off roading. LSD’s are one of the most useful and often overlooked mechanical parts that are huge for helping squeeze every last bit of speed out of the corners and transitions.
BTW removing the sway bar would most likely solve that problem but then you just end up losing a lot more of the straight line stability. The best of both worlds is an adjustable softer sway bar that you can fine tune. Then you won’t lift wheels nearly as easy and will keep a lot of the stability benefits on uneven straights that have a lot of bumps that hit one side of the cars tires and not necessarily the other sides tires. That’s where sway bars excel at keeping the car stable without adding any spring rate the to springs holding the car up.
I don't think the tire is lifted at all, seems to be just the phrase he uses. It's smoking a lot which means it's on tarmac. It's simply the matter of the infamous one tire fire because he doesn't have the LSD to brake that wheel and send the power to the outside wheel.
@@roochiecoochThe only LSD available is a helical, which will act the same as an open diff if a tire is lifted. Welding is not a viable solution, it's not a shitty drift rat
How exactly would you do that? Call me out of touch but on my 90s ecu I can only change the fuel map, ignition map, rpm at idle and compensation for the fuel map when cold😂
Disclaimer: i dont claim to be a driving expert just owned supercharged AW11 and tracked it: I re watched a few of your track videos. With midships: left foot braking and how you use it is key. I see you using it to safely scrub speed but you need to lean more into it. trust it and you to control the cars rotation and balance. If the car balance gets upset or disturbed mid apex (ok, when it happens..) keep on power *while* left foot braking. LFB is a hard concept to master but if you can trust it and your self : you will learn to love the midship shinangans. If your brain has trouble processing LFB and rev match simultantiously : prioritize LFB. Your dedication to that car makes me miss my aw11. You got this
Not every car needs a damn K-swap. You people need to think outside the box once in a while. The current engine choice is already an interesting one, I like the way this project's going.
Did you clean your MAF Sensor? It sound so basic but tbh I was running into the same exact issue as you before. I literally ended up changing all my spark plugs, my injectors, and still nothing. Wasn't until I cleaned my MAF sensor that it started to work. My theory was that I ended up cleaning my air filter and some of the air filter cleaner somehow got onto my MAF sensor. Causing it to read super rich and super lean at times.
Agreed. MAF sensors can be annoyingly finicky! I heard a story one time of a friend who's mustang was running like absolute garbage and couldn't even make a full Dyno pull. Finally it was discovered that the aftermarket cold air intake was causing to much air turbulence which was throwing off the MAF readings and messing up the af ratio.
Dig the fact that the livery keeps the red/white color scheme, and glad you're sticking to the MR-S as-is. It would be easy to just chase power, but you've decided that this is your tool of choice, and you're just going to hone it the best you can, and I respect that.
Since the day I got a LSD in my daihatsu Mira while circuit racing, I'll never ever want to track a car without LSD. I hope you'll be able to maximize on handling and not focus on the power just yet.
Most theories end up with Ben almost dying. Glad you decided to diagnose the engine problems. We could all use more help learning how to solve problems. These videos are awesome. Keep 'em coming!
Racing is so challenging by itself. Disappointment is a part of it, but SO much harder when sharing on social media. Interesting how EVERYONE seems to know what you should do. Keep perservering and race what you want! Hoping you solve the power problem because man, that is frustrating.
You can’t give up on this project - getting this to work will involve learning so much more than copying a predictable platform could ever reach you. Really cool to see a pro trouble-shoot and give feedback too. Awesome build series 👍🏻
The mr2 is definitely fighting outside it’s weightclass but I think when’s it’s dialed.. and you figure out the horsepower issue.. and learn how to drive it… it will definitely be competitive
Rear wing and lsd would improve these problems at least a bit I think. Though a rear wing would cut down on top speed which I can imagine is vital in wheel to wheel.
There’s many ways to win… one way is to look at what’s working for others and try to do it better. That’d be called “following the meta”. Another way to win is to attempt to take a different approach and try to perfect it… ie, “going against the meta”. This second way requires thought, trial and error, time and effort! Sometimes it doesn’t pan out… but when it does! Wow, that’s a magnificent achievement! The sense of accomplishment is monumental! Hang in there Ben! Stick with it! Both Miata and Lotus have made it work with low weight/terrific handling… the MR2 is a solid platform. You can do it!
I feel like the MR-S formula was already set in stone years ago. I feel like the build went way sideways far from what would be a reliable track ready car. I said this before but Techo Pro Spirit is a good benchmark in terms of tuning suspension and engine.
Thank you for sticking with the MR2. Giving up and switching engine or chassis would've been easier, but also boring. Hunting down the gremlins with the MR2 is way more entertaining
Interested in the power loss, if it’s running rich could it be a problem with the fuel system, maybe stuck injectors? But also taking off the muffler shouldn’t lean it out that much, faulty maf sensor? Vacuum leak? I don’t know, best of luck on finding the problem
Great to see some development progress! Having a pro driver help out and show what's possible is a great move. As a pro myself and with a lot of MR2 experience in autox, I'd suggest a larger front sway bar if you are running the stock one. It's so easy to install (be sure to get the reinforcement blocks!) and will help a lot to minimize or even eliminate inside wheelspin (depending on a few factors). It'll also give you better front grip (yes it's counter-intuitive on MR2s but it has to do with the front strut geometry) *and* more all around stability in the car. They can be a real joy to drive! The stock front bar is just not enough, unless you go crazy on front spring rates and damping. The larger front bar is a great interim fix before adding LSD, and you might possibly still want the stiffer bar on even after adding LSD. I suspect the car will still be tricky to drive if you add LSD to it the way it sits now. Lastly, if you're not running at least -3 degrees front camber, try it. It will help tremendously on front grip, but I'd recommend only doing that after adding the front bar, because the car is loose enough already. Actually lastly lastly, it sounds like the rear tires are locking under hard braking. Not sure if this is an ABS issue or a bias issue from here. I know it seems like the car is miles off the pace but there is a lot of development and optimization on the table at this point, and you're forging your own path, so there is definitely more to come if you stick with it! Good luck and happy to help if I can!
Rooting for you, video shows how much effort it takes just to try to even get a car competitive way after it has initially been sorted. The platform i think has proven itself but seems like every new person taking it on runs into similar issues. There may be two camps for this but the big thing as a fan of that car that always stood with me is how successful many drivers i knew became once they worked on suspension from the idea its basically same as a FR with weight in the back, rather then a FWD in reverse, easiest way i can describe it. Whatever you find works thanks for documenting the journey! 👍
Curious about the clutch master, some say EM1, some say S2K, I put a Ktuned one on my 8th gen Si when I had it and regretted it. I suggest Honda OEM here, I think you have to get a "U" adapter to make it fit in that tight space but it seems like would be worth it 👌
Ben, was this one of the cars that got damaged in the garage flood? Possible fuel system contamination or maybe a clogged (or more likely stuck if it’s running rich )injector? The fact that it didn’t want to make a pull with the exhaust off is also slightly telling I think along with Marcs comment on it shouldn’t matter with the maf sensor. Maybe bult a quick test pipe to eliminate the muffler and bends and try having your guy do a speed density test tune to eliminate those two possibilities. It kind of seems like your MAF sensor isn’t giving you terribly good readings
no , this car was not domaged in flood . His evo 9 previous track car was flooded and he had mr2 ... most probably that is why he is driving it , if evo wasn't flooded he most probably wouldn't try this hard to make something of this MR2
At the end of the day the car is exactly what it was intended for, a great wheel time car!!! I think you're trying to take an undeveloped car and be competitive with guys who have been developing their cars for years. Keep that in mind and keep grinding, all it can do is get better and develop you as a driver.
Crazy how everyone else has an opinion on what someone else should do with THEIR build. If he wants to put a v12 in it and put 4 turbos on it then let him. If yall not paying for the parts for his build or anyone else’s build then stfu and enjoy the content or stop watching.
Should just k swap it get it over with expecially if ur gonna be racing it k24a jdm or an a2 easy 250 ish hp short exhaust out the back n an intake then u can turbo it ect also it requires a k series transmission which would give u better diff choices gearing final drive ect to help with cornering
The money you have into the MR-S would have shamed Dave Pratte's Grip Z33 build on SpeedAcademy. You had it in you, but you chose to pass on the idea. Did Donut's series deter you from building it or something?
just and FYI the GLTC dyno reads about 10hp lower than any other dyno in the country. in fact my first pull on gltc dyno it read 19hp low. but as oil, trans, and diff got up to temp on 3rd pull it leveled off at around 10hp low. very common. so you need to bring your car with about 9-10 more hp than your target hp.
This was my thought too.. unfortunately, there's a huge discrepancy in dyno readings, especially with dynapack where you can essentially load them or unload them as much as you want. From spending years drag racing it was always interesting to watch cars people would brag about numbers and then have low trap speeds comparatively.
@@davidwray3424 the gltc mobile dyno is quiet know to read lower than everyones home dynojet (mandated GLTC brand). like i said if you tune on your home dynojet with the gltc correction factor, you WILL be 10hp lower than everyone else on track that tunes using the GLTC mobile dyno. and with the talent level in GLTC you cant afford to give up 2hp. let alone 10.
Finding out the open diff is killing you is wild. The car just can't take advantage of its most fundamental feature. Here's hoping we get a solution to that soon!
One of my favorite race season inspired episodes, and seasons, for that matter. Watching all these people working together to try and build this raw combination up essentially from scratch is like watching the best kind of documentary
@@nehok I say it because I watch a boy called @dannydc2 and he used to race one of them and he had issues with his air intake but hadn't changed the rear wings for wider ones but the air intake is behind Ben and the standard airbox does better than a cone filter type of thing. He did the standard mr2 engine but same shit. They vents are much smaller than the standard ones. The outside looks about the same but it cones in where the standard ones were wider opening but the same outer size. I think, had a smoke you see sir haha
The self depreciating livery is badass. The Civic feels a little benchmark compared to the passion and emotion that goes into making this nugget race. Whatever happens next, I’m waiting!
not sure how it would work with the eight requirnments of gltc but the 2zz-ge and 6 speed transmission with an LSD and the car orginal weight and balance maybe the best combination.
Can't wait to see the end of season engine tear down update. The universe is just handing you free content :P Jokes aside it's so cool to see the spyder go from basically a stock car to a fully liveried track machine.
I admire your resolve. Remember the track meet where the mrs set the best time despite the rain. That's only a small dose of its capability. Keep up the good work, and obviously, I'll stay tuned.
@@AChubbyWombat that also! But there are more reasons to do it, like feeling if there's brake fade, re settle the pad on the disc since some systems allow the pad to not stay in the same position when the brake is depressed and even to "raise the pedal" on old non assisted/direct brake systems, where it sometimes changes the position where the brake actually starts to work.
There is an issue called pad “knock back”, because it’s a floating assembly it knocks the pads back into the caliper. I tap the brake to get the pads back to where they should be, and it eliminates a long pedal feel under braking.
My favorite build on your channel. I hope you don't give up on it. There is obviously something wrong if you are down 30 hp. Solve that problem and then see where you stand competitively.
Forget the people telling you to change cars. I like the MR-S, sporty, different, and the Frankenstein engine setup is awesome. Super unique and staying Toyota powered. I'm sure you'll get it sorted out. At the very worst, this car provides you with plenty of content to produce! My only technical suggestion would be to get rid of the iridium plugs, though I doubt that's the power problem, but a copper plug still makes a better spark. You just need to change them out more often.
@3:05 Get rid of those Iridium/Platinum tip plugs. Copper is THE BEST CONDUCTOR on a plug. The ONLY advantage of Iridium/Platinum plugs is longevity (so you can run them basically 100k miles in your street car).
Yeet that Toyoyota rice cooker and stick a Volvo Modular 5 B5244T5 with a M66 in that rear engined shopping cart. Disclaimer: I’m joking…. Not about the Volvo engine, but with the rude way I referred to the MR2 and the Corolla engine.
I really love the fact you took the best MR2 (and sports car Toyota ever made in terms of weight) and just went with it. My 01' GT-S Celica is amazing, but after seeing in person what a Lotus Elise looks like...I can see what is possible with the same engine in a completely re-engineered form.
"These people are unaware, extremely unaware actually." -Me during my daily commute to work
Great one liners in this video! "Got to be patient, I'm not patient"
That was very disappointing on the power loss diagnostic
Yes. I was hoping there was a solution or causation for the power loss. Not sure if it had been diagnosed later but a potential over rev?
@@btownballer27 Mark posted it on his channel a couple days ago. Weird injector failure.
Coby is a character! I'd love to see him on the channel more as he's just as entertaining as the Ben's while providing helpful feedback!
agree!
Super awesome!
Coby is a hell of a driver!
Dude was an animal.
Yep. Seeing the pedals was dope
Love how Coby checks the brakes every now and then to see if they're still biting or there's some fading going on while going on the straights when he's soon to go for a hard braking
Edit: Thanks to you guys, i learned that it's to get rid of Brake knockback, which means pushing the brake pads closer to the rotors so the response is more instant when needing to use the brakes, still fun to see it happening out of sheer force of habit
I’m no pro, but I’m pretty sure he’s getting rid of brake knock. I have to do the same in my car
@@dearlove88 could be that as well, i'm no pro either, but what's true is that Coby's doing something with the brakes before using them mid race, that's for sure
so hes not checking the breaks, in driving the car the breaks push the pads away and by him tapping the breaks it brings it right back so when he goes to use them it right there with no delay
Yup, checking for pad knock back. Some cars get it, some dont. Just a habit of pro drivers to do it no matter the vehicle
Checking for knockback.
"awd and a supercharger would be interested" that dude needs a reality check
Or needs to uninstall Forza.
But I'll say, I'm very much an enjoyer of supercharged inline 4's, so I liked half of that idea!
I’m wondering if any of them saw the video on WHY they had to make the car heavier
Almost none of the comments were highlighted to shame the commenter. A lot of viewers are younger or just not involved in mechanical aspects of cars enough to know what's realistic. But some of the comments are goofy.
I mean it’s not like it’s impossible, just expensive and definitely not worth it for this platform
@@GearsandGasolinebased and patient-pilled
Huge fan of the MR2 and Marc's work. I hope you don't have to give up on the car to stay competitive, but ultimately I get that losing because your tool isn't fit for the job sucks.
Good luck finding why the car lost so much power and hope you can make the car competitive.
I have a 2ZZ/C65/LSD Spyder that I race here in Australia so I am definitely behind you holding on to the car! What is interesting though is how you choose to NOT run a rear wing. When I took my aero off the car had such poor balance I went straight back in to the pit to put it back on (although a greater straight line advantage without it). I believe once you get your power/weight balance correct and you sort out your stability issues, you will absolutely fly.
Keep it up guys! 😎
same observation here too.. With the wing, the car can be mechanically loose at low speed (already is), and more safe / understeery in the high speed sections? Ben Lin, got a big (wing) reveal soon? :D :D
Absolutely love the quotes on the livery. And also the dedication to making this build work. So much respect to you Ben for not listening to all the hate and doing a k swap or whatever everyone’s suggesting. You’ll get it there, I have faith in you buddy. Keep up the good work 🤙🏻
And this is exactly why he's failing k series better engine easy 50hp more better transmission, diff ect if he's trying to be competitive u can already see this car has reached its limit and its still at the back if he wants to be competitive unfortunately its gotta go and might aswell of done it in the first place this ben never wants to go k series tho and that'll be the downfall this time
@@devonboss3733 Or stick with what the lotus used: a supercharged 2ZZ . But, most of us are just keyboard warriors (I am) and I couldn't even dream of what Ben has already accomplished.
the comments really resembles how the car community looks today, most of it anyway.... "oh something is broken, i cant be bothered to replace it so ill just buy a new car"
Why run a Haltech ECU, and not use the wideband closed loop feature with long term fuel trims? Any shifts in fueling are corrected for immediately by the PID control so the motor has correct fueling. Consistent fueling 101 for a Track Car!
Yup, tune the car in open loop, then turn on closed loop 100% of the time, same why I did mine on Hondata. Either way you have to trust the O2 sensor, so it's almost a no brainer nowadays.
That and running a MAF on a racecar then wondering why the fuelling is all over the place...
Fuck the MAF off, tune it speed density, enable closed loop, sorted.
@@JamesBalazs THIS THIS THIS. MAF is basically always garbage on a track car.
@@JamesBalazs What's the problem with running a MAF to meter in air? Assuming the MAF is placed in a laminar flow environment I don't really understand why it would be worse?
@@asian4747 they're inaccurate at higher flow rates (although maybe higher than the MRS will ever see). Great for low flow at idle / cruise to help get the AFR right for emissions / economy, but not great for accurately, consistently making top end power. Need a separate IAT sensor for baro/temp correction, thus temperature changes you haven't tuned for will cause you to make less power. Intake leaks will affect fuelling moreso than when running MAP based fuelling since you have unmetered air. MAF can be contaminated by oiled filters and gives incorrect readings as a result.
If the intake is modified near the MAF, since the factory MAF calibration is the voltage vs kg/hr of the MAF "with the factory intake tract" specifically, so it's not going to be accurate and you have to work around that *everywhere else* in the tune. People will argue this isn't the case or doesn't matter, but I've owned cars that run like shit with an induction kit fitted and no tune, since the MAF calibration is no longer accurate - not something you want to cause you headaches on a race car.
OEMs used them when widebands were 5x more expensive and less common decades ago, and the narrowband O2 sensor can only read cruise / idle AFRs around 14:1 for emissions purposes. Nowadays, especially if you already have a wideband and a standalone, I can't fathom why you wouldn't use what is universally accepted as a better fuelling model (MAP based VE vs MAF) other than a rush to get the car ready without removing the MAF and fitting a MAP sensor.
As an owner of both a 2ZZ and K20 MR-S... Bite the bullet and get a wing, 9 Lives Racing is insane bang for buck. I was wrestling with the same Torsen issues and had to modulate the throttle a lot on exits not to light up the inside tire... And now those issues are gone on both cars, even in tight low speed corners. Bury the throttle before the apex and forget it, the rear is planted.
It almost feels like cheating on this chassis - I dropped 3 full seconds on a 90 second track. After tires, a wing is the best bang for buck mod on this platform, no doubt about it any more. IIRC the rules didn't punish aero that much, but the way you can drive with confidence is worth it.
Bonus trivia: contrary to popular belief, a wing on a low power car doesn't necessarily mean lower top speeds on track. Due to faster cornering speeds, earlier throttle and thus way faster exits, I am 5-7 kph faster with a wing at EVERY SINGLE braking point on the tracks in my country. The drag-to-speed tradeoff happens way later with a good wing than the speeds you reach on most tracks.
excellent info
💯
Great idea to have a pro show what your car is capable of and give you feedback on your setup. More youtube track builds should do this.
I have no doubt you'll get everything sorted with this car and turn it into a pretty competitive car in gltc. After seeing what you were able to do with the evo and all the development not only with the car itself but as a driver as well, I have no doubt you will start climbing the ladder. Keep it up Ben!
I think this has been mentioned but, since you've got to throw a bunch of weight at it anyway, I would definitely say that stiffening the chassis as much as you possibly can is the way to go, as opposed to dead ballast just siting there
Don’t give up on this build Ben, I love it! I’ve been fighting issues on my own 2ZZ swap and surprisingly, some of the issues have been related to air trapped in the cooling system. I’m looking forward to future episodes!
Did you try the Toyota bleeding procedure? It should be pretty straightforward
@@omarawilson2853 I followed a guide that had been posted to Spyderchat. I'm honestly not sure how closely it matches the official Toyota procedure. One minor quirk is that I have an aftermarket radiator and the bleeder design is a bit different than stock. I think I have it sorted at the moment, but there are still some intermittent idle issues. Thank you for replying.
@@The_Stick odd. I have a Celica and the Bleeding procedure is quite straightforward, I too have an aftermarket radiator. These engine are pretty easy to bleed. I wonder what could be the hang up with urs
Are you bleeding it 1st before turning over the engine and making sure the cap is off? The moment you get one mistake you can end up doing the bleed procedure 2-3x or more to get it right again
Instead of adding ballast for weight penalty, consider taking the weight as lsd and much more rear wheel and tire. Put the tire where the weight is. Mid engine driving and setup is completely different than ff or fr cars. More rear wheel and tire is the same as adding wing if the tires are sticky and on temp. It will allow power to be applied sooner mid corner and brake later but without the penalties associated with a wing.
Also the McPherson strut love camber lots of camber because it looses camber as the suspension compresses. Take temps across the tire and dial in camber to even the temps. And for goodness sakes get and alignemnt with .1 or .2 degree toe IN rear.
Have you considered on rear sway bar on why the rear is lifting? My friend with an mr2 has same issue and he’s suspecting it to be the sway bar lifting the tire rather than the diff being the problem.
That’s the issue though, whether it’s lifting the tire or not the open diff is still going to cause problems with stability and traction. Especially when exiting any camber on turns, which will lift a tire and burn that one. An LSD or even just welding the diff would guarantee that the wheels are both getting basically full power split in half to each. Then even if a wheel is lifted the other one contacting the ground can keep putting forward momentum in without losing traction nearly as easily. There is a reason that diffs are usually something that is done very early or even many cars that already have a pretty decent oem lsd. Civic Si’s have LSD’s, as do the Type R’s, Exige/Elise’s have LSD’s on most models, the Evora as well, hell it’s even on many trucks that have a tendency to lift wheels when off roading. LSD’s are one of the most useful and often overlooked mechanical parts that are huge for helping squeeze every last bit of speed out of the corners and transitions.
BTW removing the sway bar would most likely solve that problem but then you just end up losing a lot more of the straight line stability. The best of both worlds is an adjustable softer sway bar that you can fine tune. Then you won’t lift wheels nearly as easy and will keep a lot of the stability benefits on uneven straights that have a lot of bumps that hit one side of the cars tires and not necessarily the other sides tires. That’s where sway bars excel at keeping the car stable without adding any spring rate the to springs holding the car up.
I don't think the tire is lifted at all, seems to be just the phrase he uses. It's smoking a lot which means it's on tarmac. It's simply the matter of the infamous one tire fire because he doesn't have the LSD to brake that wheel and send the power to the outside wheel.
Adding a rear bar will promote more oversteer as well. It helps with the diff issue however it might make him go slower.
@@roochiecoochThe only LSD available is a helical, which will act the same as an open diff if a tire is lifted. Welding is not a viable solution, it's not a shitty drift rat
Glad to see you're not giving up on dialing in the #caMR2y. Illwraps did an awesome job (I also have a pic with that Hotwheels background)! ✌️💀🔰🔥🎌🏁
I love the MR2. I've always liked the MRS even though it was the most hated MR-2 model. I've always thought the aesthetics reminded me of a Porsche.
I am so loving this MR2 series. I look forward to it every Saturday, it makes my weekend
With the haltec you could probably add a blip throttle downshift. Since several people comment how the owner doesn’t heel toe.
How exactly would you do that? Call me out of touch but on my 90s ecu I can only change the fuel map, ignition map, rpm at idle and compensation for the fuel map when cold😂
@@Fred_the_1996only with drive by wire throttle body. You can command the throttle to open when you hit the clutch (engage the clutch switch)
How much horsepower did you gain with the new livery?
Probably like 75, I gain 5 for every sticker I have on my Honda
@@AudiRSAvant they get 10 horses for every letter that mrs has
@@genuinelyspoken6611 Wonder why they say the MR2 is so slow then. Maybe they need more letters
Disclaimer: i dont claim to be a driving expert just owned supercharged AW11 and tracked it:
I re watched a few of your track videos. With midships: left foot braking and how you use it is key. I see you using it to safely scrub speed but you need to lean more into it. trust it and you to control the cars rotation and balance. If the car balance gets upset or disturbed mid apex (ok, when it happens..) keep on power *while* left foot braking.
LFB is a hard concept to master but if you can trust it and your self : you will learn to love the midship shinangans. If your brain has trouble processing LFB and rev match simultantiously : prioritize LFB.
Your dedication to that car makes me miss my aw11. You got this
This video really highlights the massive difference in skill between a pro and your average amateur racing driver.
Not every car needs a damn K-swap. You people need to think outside the box once in a while. The current engine choice is already an interesting one, I like the way this project's going.
Did you clean your MAF Sensor? It sound so basic but tbh I was running into the same exact issue as you before. I literally ended up changing all my spark plugs, my injectors, and still nothing. Wasn't until I cleaned my MAF sensor that it started to work. My theory was that I ended up cleaning my air filter and some of the air filter cleaner somehow got onto my MAF sensor. Causing it to read super rich and super lean at times.
Agreed. MAF sensors can be annoyingly finicky! I heard a story one time of a friend who's mustang was running like absolute garbage and couldn't even make a full Dyno pull. Finally it was discovered that the aftermarket cold air intake was causing to much air turbulence which was throwing off the MAF readings and messing up the af ratio.
Dig the fact that the livery keeps the red/white color scheme, and glad you're sticking to the MR-S as-is. It would be easy to just chase power, but you've decided that this is your tool of choice, and you're just going to hone it the best you can, and I respect that.
Since the day I got a LSD in my daihatsu Mira while circuit racing, I'll never ever want to track a car without LSD. I hope you'll be able to maximize on handling and not focus on the power just yet.
I love the red shit bucket! It's becoming one of my favourites! Underpowered, yes! Sketchy, hell yes! Entertaining, that a big f***ing yes!
Most theories end up with Ben almost dying. Glad you decided to diagnose the engine problems. We could all use more help learning how to solve problems. These videos are awesome. Keep 'em coming!
Racing is so challenging by itself. Disappointment is a part of it, but SO much harder when sharing on social media. Interesting how EVERYONE seems to know what you should do. Keep perservering and race what you want! Hoping you solve the power problem because man, that is frustrating.
And the trouble shooting makes the series more fun to watch. It's the suspense that keeps all hooked
You can’t give up on this project - getting this to work will involve learning so much more than copying a predictable platform could ever reach you. Really cool to see a pro trouble-shoot and give feedback too. Awesome build series 👍🏻
The mr2 is definitely fighting outside it’s weightclass but I think when’s it’s dialed.. and you figure out the horsepower issue.. and learn how to drive it… it will definitely be competitive
Jeez why does everyone Cody was passing seem oblivious to other cars? Lotta weird movements
Yeah, I couldn't believe the guy at 9:40 ... damn near took him out.
@@mhicaoidh1Extremely unaware actually
Rear wing and lsd would improve these problems at least a bit I think. Though a rear wing would cut down on top speed which I can imagine is vital in wheel to wheel.
Definitely stick with it, ignore the haters. Give the car a fair shot and I'm sure it'll impress you
using the rubber hose to take out the spark plugs is genius
There’s many ways to win… one way is to look at what’s working for others and try to do it better. That’d be called “following the meta”. Another way to win is to attempt to take a different approach and try to perfect it… ie, “going against the meta”. This second way requires thought, trial and error, time and effort! Sometimes it doesn’t pan out… but when it does! Wow, that’s a magnificent achievement! The sense of accomplishment is monumental! Hang in there Ben! Stick with it! Both Miata and Lotus have made it work with low weight/terrific handling… the MR2 is a solid platform. You can do it!
I feel like the MR-S formula was already set in stone years ago. I feel like the build went way sideways far from what would be a reliable track ready car. I said this before but Techo Pro Spirit is a good benchmark in terms of tuning suspension and engine.
Damn i forgot how well ur videos looked!, good job with the editing and the camera angles,documentary level quality here 👌
Rome isn't built in a day...or a UA-cam video. There's a formula out there. Keep plugging away. 🏁
i love these track based videos, thanks!
Thank you for sticking with the MR2. Giving up and switching engine or chassis would've been easier, but also boring. Hunting down the gremlins with the MR2 is way more entertaining
Interested in the power loss, if it’s running rich could it be a problem with the fuel system, maybe stuck injectors? But also taking off the muffler shouldn’t lean it out that much, faulty maf sensor? Vacuum leak? I don’t know, best of luck on finding the problem
This must be frustrating for Ben, but lord does it make great content 😅
Great to see some development progress! Having a pro driver help out and show what's possible is a great move. As a pro myself and with a lot of MR2 experience in autox, I'd suggest a larger front sway bar if you are running the stock one. It's so easy to install (be sure to get the reinforcement blocks!) and will help a lot to minimize or even eliminate inside wheelspin (depending on a few factors). It'll also give you better front grip (yes it's counter-intuitive on MR2s but it has to do with the front strut geometry) *and* more all around stability in the car. They can be a real joy to drive! The stock front bar is just not enough, unless you go crazy on front spring rates and damping. The larger front bar is a great interim fix before adding LSD, and you might possibly still want the stiffer bar on even after adding LSD. I suspect the car will still be tricky to drive if you add LSD to it the way it sits now. Lastly, if you're not running at least -3 degrees front camber, try it. It will help tremendously on front grip, but I'd recommend only doing that after adding the front bar, because the car is loose enough already. Actually lastly lastly, it sounds like the rear tires are locking under hard braking. Not sure if this is an ABS issue or a bias issue from here.
I know it seems like the car is miles off the pace but there is a lot of development and optimization on the table at this point, and you're forging your own path, so there is definitely more to come if you stick with it! Good luck and happy to help if I can!
I love how the closed captions call it "The MRSS." Does youtube know something we don't? 😛
Get rid of the weights and put aero.
Slow driver, fast car. The end.
Rooting for you, video shows how much effort it takes just to try to even get a car competitive way after it has initially been sorted. The platform i think has proven itself but seems like every new person taking it on runs into similar issues. There may be two camps for this but the big thing as a fan of that car that always stood with me is how successful many drivers i knew became once they worked on suspension from the idea its basically same as a FR with weight in the back, rather then a FWD in reverse, easiest way i can describe it. Whatever you find works thanks for documenting the journey! 👍
Curious about the clutch master, some say EM1, some say S2K, I put a Ktuned one on my 8th gen Si when I had it and regretted it. I suggest Honda OEM here, I think you have to get a "U" adapter to make it fit in that tight space but it seems like would be worth it 👌
Ben, was this one of the cars that got damaged in the garage flood? Possible fuel system contamination or maybe a clogged (or more likely stuck if it’s running rich )injector?
The fact that it didn’t want to make a pull with the exhaust off is also slightly telling I think along with Marcs comment on it shouldn’t matter with the maf sensor. Maybe bult a quick test pipe to eliminate the muffler and bends and try having your guy do a speed density test tune to eliminate those two possibilities. It kind of seems like your MAF sensor isn’t giving you terribly good readings
no , this car was not domaged in flood . His evo 9 previous track car was flooded and he had mr2 ... most probably that is why he is driving it , if evo wasn't flooded he most probably wouldn't try this hard to make something of this MR2
At the end of the day the car is exactly what it was intended for, a great wheel time car!!! I think you're trying to take an undeveloped car and be competitive with guys who have been developing their cars for years. Keep that in mind and keep grinding, all it can do is get better and develop you as a driver.
Could you add a spoiler to the rear to help with stability in the rear end
A fun technical video with some VIR line training? You’re spoiling us. I’d love to see a video with Coby talking through footwork/strategy.
Crazy how everyone else has an opinion on what someone else should do with THEIR build. If he wants to put a v12 in it and put 4 turbos on it then let him. If yall not paying for the parts for his build or anyone else’s build then stfu and enjoy the content or stop watching.
Should just k swap it get it over with expecially if ur gonna be racing it k24a jdm or an a2 easy 250 ish hp short exhaust out the back n an intake then u can turbo it ect also it requires a k series transmission which would give u better diff choices gearing final drive ect to help with cornering
In City Racer, an online racing game that has been in service for 20 years in Korea, many users say they wish the Toyota MR2 model would be released.
The money you have into the MR-S would have shamed Dave Pratte's Grip Z33 build on SpeedAcademy. You had it in you, but you chose to pass on the idea. Did Donut's series deter you from building it or something?
I would’ve done a 2ZZ-GE plus a supercharger (similar to the lotus elise) instead of the hybrid motor
Whats wrong with my car, why's it slo? Your car's fine, youre jus drivin er slo!
The MR-S is a beautiful platform. Don't give up Ben
Would’ve been nice to see the lap time of the Lotus for comparison.
just and FYI the GLTC dyno reads about 10hp lower than any other dyno in the country. in fact my first pull on gltc dyno it read 19hp low. but as oil, trans, and diff got up to temp on 3rd pull it leveled off at around 10hp low. very common. so you need to bring your car with about 9-10 more hp than your target hp.
This was my thought too.. unfortunately, there's a huge discrepancy in dyno readings, especially with dynapack where you can essentially load them or unload them as much as you want. From spending years drag racing it was always interesting to watch cars people would brag about numbers and then have low trap speeds comparatively.
@@davidwray3424 the gltc mobile dyno is quiet know to read lower than everyones home dynojet (mandated GLTC brand). like i said if you tune on your home dynojet with the gltc correction factor, you WILL be 10hp lower than everyone else on track that tunes using the GLTC mobile dyno. and with the talent level in GLTC you cant afford to give up 2hp. let alone 10.
Your mom reads 10 hp low
A Coby' track series named "What is THAT GUY doing ?" would be very entertaining
Finding out the open diff is killing you is wild. The car just can't take advantage of its most fundamental feature. Here's hoping we get a solution to that soon!
I’m sorry for adding salt to the wound but I think the car has other more important issues to deal with than adding a livery..
One of my favorite race season inspired episodes, and seasons, for that matter. Watching all these people working together to try and build this raw combination up essentially from scratch is like watching the best kind of documentary
As a MR2 fan, I’m glad you are sticking to the car. 2zz or kswap.
The livery is so cool! Theres something cool about an underdog
Ya need to do some research and get in touch with technospirit or something man. His 2zz revs to 9k
Funny I saw this car with you,having this same livery on a another channel a few weeks ago😅
They air intake vents are smaller than the mr2 vents with that body kit, that's probably where missing 5% went lol
That could be a thing, but I wouldn't think that would make a difference when it's stationary on the dyno.
@@nehok I say it because I watch a boy called @dannydc2 and he used to race one of them and he had issues with his air intake but hadn't changed the rear wings for wider ones but the air intake is behind Ben and the standard airbox does better than a cone filter type of thing. He did the standard mr2 engine but same shit. They vents are much smaller than the standard ones. The outside looks about the same but it cones in where the standard ones were wider opening but the same outer size. I think, had a smoke you see sir haha
I enjoy the videos about the MR-S Good to see some improvement. Best of luck!
Perhaps something front wheel drive would suit Ben’s driving style better…
The self depreciating livery is badass. The Civic feels a little benchmark compared to the passion and emotion that goes into making this nugget race. Whatever happens next, I’m waiting!
not sure how it would work with the eight requirnments of gltc but the 2zz-ge and 6 speed transmission with an LSD and the car orginal weight and balance maybe the best combination.
Can't wait to see the end of season engine tear down update. The universe is just handing you free content :P
Jokes aside it's so cool to see the spyder go from basically a stock car to a fully liveried track machine.
I admire your resolve. Remember the track meet where the mrs set the best time despite the rain. That's only a small dose of its capability. Keep up the good work, and obviously, I'll stay tuned.
someone tell jermaine that his laptops battery is about to go boom @4:49.
Why does the pro driver like tap the brake with his left foot every so often while under acceleration?
I’m not an expert , but Possibly keeping the pads hot (assuming they’re sintered or special pads). Or checking to see if they are fading.
@@AChubbyWombat that also! But there are more reasons to do it, like feeling if there's brake fade, re settle the pad on the disc since some systems allow the pad to not stay in the same position when the brake is depressed and even to "raise the pedal" on old non assisted/direct brake systems, where it sometimes changes the position where the brake actually starts to work.
There is an issue called pad “knock back”, because it’s a floating assembly it knocks the pads back into the caliper. I tap the brake to get the pads back to where they should be, and it eliminates a long pedal feel under braking.
The car looks so much better! You deserve to drive a great looking car - you put in the time and your an amazing person.
watching daddy coby rinse the poor misses is mesmerizing
My favorite build on your channel. I hope you don't give up on it. There is obviously something wrong if you are down 30 hp. Solve that problem and then see where you stand competitively.
These type of videos made me realize just how painful AND expensive it can be when building race cars, or project cars
17:10 DDE?
the onboard footage is incredible
Hey one mans suffering is many more mans content for youtube!
If the back is tail happy add a spoiler for Pete's sake
This mr2 series is like a soap opera
I absolutely love this car as is..just keep grinding and you will inch closer to where you want to be.
I’m pretty curious when is the next road trip gears and gasoline
Forget the people telling you to change cars. I like the MR-S, sporty, different, and the Frankenstein engine setup is awesome. Super unique and staying Toyota powered. I'm sure you'll get it sorted out. At the very worst, this car provides you with plenty of content to produce!
My only technical suggestion would be to get rid of the iridium plugs, though I doubt that's the power problem, but a copper plug still makes a better spark. You just need to change them out more often.
Love the series of videos about this car. Very enjoyable to watch car development and I really hope you guys can continue to figure more out.
@3:05 Get rid of those Iridium/Platinum tip plugs. Copper is THE BEST CONDUCTOR on a plug. The ONLY advantage of Iridium/Platinum plugs is longevity (so you can run them basically 100k miles in your street car).
So when are we going a proper clutch type diff? And was it rockers theb causing the loss?
Stick with it Ben! Never give up! You got this!!!
Yeet that Toyoyota rice cooker and stick a Volvo Modular 5 B5244T5 with a M66 in that rear engined shopping cart.
Disclaimer: I’m joking…. Not about the Volvo engine, but with the rude way I referred to the MR2 and the Corolla engine.
I really love the fact you took the best MR2 (and sports car Toyota ever made in terms of weight) and just went with it.
My 01' GT-S Celica is amazing, but after seeing in person what a Lotus Elise looks like...I can see what is possible with the same engine in a completely re-engineered form.