Exterior Light Installation on Vinyl Siding Block
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- Опубліковано 23 лип 2014
- Exterior Light Installation Instructions are easy to find, but what do you do for Replacement Siding Jobs (Not New Construction) when you have extra hollow space between the J Block and the electrical box? Also Explains what the additional red wire is for.
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Probably the most helpful video I've seen on siding boxes and what to do for EXISTING jobs and not new construction. Thank you very much!
Thanks for this video! I had new siding installed. THey took my light down and I wasn't sure how to put it back up. After watching this video, I only need to go get longer screws and drill two holes. This video was perfect and helpful!
Add in a foam gasket between it at least to keep rain and snow out
Motion sensor advice so funny at the end lol
That helped this DIY'er. Thank you for posting!
Haha about motion sensor, I think they mostly are for scaring someone off in the middle of the night. I was just going to buy new flood light but after looking for hours on internet I saw that I could get a LED flood with hardwired wi-fi camera, motion sensor, dimmer with all kind of settings in the free app, it is bright too!!!! It was 89 bucks at HD so couldn't resist. Plus it has built in siren and two-way talk, just couldn't beat price. It was boxed up like an iphone too, real nice and even has silicon rubber seal on the mount. But I was trying to find about more about these plastic boxes used on siding so thanks for your great video. I got my light on but not tight enough to snug seal up so will mess with it now with you advice. But back on light looks like it is all sealed up too.
Great job... I was able to hang my three lights tonight because of this video. Thank you.
Nice video, very helpful. What vinyl siding product is that? It looks good.
Thanks for this! Very helpful as I believe I have pretty much the same scenario at my house. Question: are those longer screws going into a junction box? I discovered there is no junction box in my situation and it doesn’t feel entirely stable. I have a light that is probably a hit heavier than yours.
To meet the Electrical code you need to wire to a junction box!
Thanks. I wish I could find a reliable tradesman who isn’t sloppy and in a rush to get to the next job. If you know of any in the southeastern Virginia, I’d be grateful.
Q
The contractors who tore off the clap boards and installed siding on my house left the junction boxes free floating behind those vinyl lighting boxes. I have no idea how I'm going to now correctly mount a new light fixture to it. #somecontractorssuck
They did that because technically, according to most building codes, the wiring is supposed to be captured within the electrical box, not just the J-block. With wiring inside the J-block and not captured inside an electrical box there is the possibility of sparking and fire contacting the building materials. The video makers that are stuffing wires behind the J-block but not inside an electrical box are violating an electrical code. Electrical boxes that are 1-1/2" in depth fit the J-blocks properly and allow for proper screw holding into metal instead of the vinyl J-block.
With a little layout work with your fixture you can locate the proper position of the screw holes without the edges going past the base and the octagon box can get lined up one hole at a time.
Hey Mark, I’m having an issue. I’m replacing my light fixtures and The boxes I have don’t budge. The wires are inside and I can’t pull them out far enough to replace them with my new fixture wires. What do you recommend?
What I recommend Is If the wires don't budge, Pigtail other wires on to those of you can , Meaning get A white wire and Black wire And 2-3 wire nuts , Cut the sheething off and boom ,your done.
@@valentingutierrez9374 Thank you so much for your response. I ended up hiring an electrician.
What keeps water from hitting the block, traveling down close to the house and going behind the siding on the bottom of the block?
My building inspector said vinyl siding leaks water behind it like crazy. It is the reason why siding building permits require the housewrap/Tyvek inspection stage. Vinyl siding manufacturers say not to caulk the siding because it would inhibit the expansion-contraction. So let it leak behind it, and run down the house wrap out the bottom.
Mark Greer that sounds logical at 1st look. I worry about the sheathing getting soaked in due time. keep up effort mark
Mark Greer yes but after adding the box, you should have taped around the edges to the house-wrap.
*****
Tape over the vinyl nailing fin? Interesting. It couldn't hurt! I did tape thoroughly the housewrap to the house, lapped. Good idea.
+bn880 , butbutter and it was
Well done. Only thing is a CFL mounted upside down can overheat and burn out.
I can't tell if you have a junction box there or not. If you don't that's a big no-no. Aside from that, the details of the electrical code vary by city/county. This method made sense to me (when a proper junction box is used) since the wires are further protected from the elements, but it didn't pass inspection in Plymouth, Minnesota in 2018. Our code requires the junction box to be flush with the J block, so I have to cut the large hole in the J Block to satisfy our city's interpretation of the code. Do yourself a favor and pull a permit so you don't burn your house down. When you apply for the permit, bring along pictures of the existing setup, and a diagram of how you intend to install the replacement light if your city/county doesn't already require that. Ask the building department if there are any particular things or common errors to watch out for. I wasted a day re-doing my installation because I didn't ask when I pulled the permit.
Yup! That is what I just explained above.
your code requires the junction box to be flush with the Jblock? So how does cutting a hole in the J Block satisfy that? You still
would have 1/-1/2” gap from the face of the block to the face of the junction box. If it needs to be flush, then you would have to mount an extension onto the existing junction box some sort?
No tape on wire nuts,have seen them come off in a wall.
what's the tool called ua-cam.com/video/xIqBxV-QM18/v-deo.html
This is not correct. I repeat this is not a proper installation. The light needs to secure to an ul listed junction box. The siding block does not suffice as a junction box.
Correct, however, 6 years later the lights still look and operate perfectly and I didn’t have to hire an overpriced electrician. Passed inspection and everything.
@@Markcgreer It's not because after 6 years it still looks and operates perfectly mean that it's ok, the installation is still wrong. You don't need to hire an overpriced electrician to do it right. If it passed electrical inspection, it's because the electrical inspector not a house inspector because they don't know SHIT didn't bother to look behind the light to make sure that the mounting block was tight to the junction box. To make up for the amount of space missing, you need to shim behind the junction box so that it comes out to meet the surface of the mounting box or install a box extension.
@@dtm8073 I could go to your house right now and find 500 things that are not up to “code” and you wouldn’t give a flying fuck.
Who decides what is “code”anyway? Some asshole that thinks he knows more than everyone else? You can stand in line with the rest of the sheep and I’ll be over here using common sense.
Are his wire nuts going to unscrew them self and burn his house down before the breaker blows? NOPE .
is the 1 pound weight too much and it’s going to rip off the wall? NOPE.
So if it can’t rip off the wall and it can’t unscrew itself then how the fuck is that installation a problem? Go ahead and give me a real life scenario that is going to happen. I don’t want a scenario that is one in 1 in a million I’m talking about something that is actually possible.
Why would anyone NOT want a motion sensor? You took the time to install more efficient bulb, but you're willing to let them use energy all night? Most motions sensors will shut the light off in the daylight as well. Most people forget to turn the light off on their way to work and waste energy all day. Great video otherwise. It helped me out.
silly city folks,, lol
This is so far from correct
Why make a video on something you don’t know about
Yup, but 6 years later the lights still look and operate perfectly and I didn’t have to rewire the electrical box. Passed inspection and all. Electricians hate when home owners bypass their overpriced service.
@@Markcgreer You don't have to hire an electrician to do it correctly yourself.
this is not the right way to mount this box nor is it right way to mount the light. it needs a light box and hole cut for it
This would not pass electrical code in my area, this shouldn't pass code in any area, you should have cut out the entire circle, attached the box with screws in the mounting holes and use a ROUND FIRE RING to make up the difference in depth and ultimately extend the round electrical box. - Would the inspector know? probably not! Is it illegal? yes!
Why is what you did illegal? You have flammable construction materials sandwiched between the fixture and box
ALSO, You dont need to turn off the circuit at the fuse box. just turn off the light switch.
Unless it is an outlet circuit you can save time by using the light switch.
Show a solution for adding a box where you already have siding installed.
This is the same method that a leading contractor in Traverse City, Michigan used to side my Dad’s place, and it is the same method a leading siding contractor that I have worked for in the past uses here in West Michigan. I also checked with a commercial electrician on my method, and this passed inspection here in this state. Also, every piece of advice I have ever found states to turn off the breaker, not just the switch, so thank you for the feedback, but those are "Improper Techniques".
Bob Vila:
Step 1: Shut off power
For some fixtures you can simply shut the power off at the switch, but I recommend always shutting power off at the breaker.
www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-install-a-light-fixture/#.VPoeC3ZeLu0
+Mark Greer Proper Techniques isn't wrong, it is true all electrical connections by code are supposed to take place inside a box. HOWEVER this is often done and it works out fine. Proper Techniques came off as an dick with the way he said it.
+Mark Greer this method you show is very wrong. here is the code article.
314.20 In Wall or Ceiling. In walls or ceilings with a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material, boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate shall be installed so that the front edge of the box, plaster ring, extension ring, or listed extender will not be set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (1⁄4 in.). In walls and ceilings constructed of wood or other combustible surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension rings, or listed extenders shall be flush with the finished surface or project therefrom.
you also are violation of the minimum conductors length. they must extent 6 inches past the box.
the proper method is to cut out the circle and the round box mounts to the vinyl
I am a master electrician with 20 years experience licensed in both maine and nh
"HOWEVER this is often done and it works out fine." Oh, so that makes it OK and the code book is not important. Tell that to your insurance company if the house burns down. lol. There's a right way and a wrong way to do many things. This example is the wrong way, so why encourage people to do a half assed job when you can buy the correct part for about the same cost and do it properly. The wires need to be in a box - end of story.
OMGWTFLOL the code he points to is for interior recepticals. For exterior, it merely needs to be in a waterproof box - which it is - which is why it passed inspection. electrical.about.com/od/receptaclesandoutlets/tp/Outdoor-Lighting-And-Receptacle-Codes.htm
Something doesn’t look right here.
8 years ago I installed those on my house and they still work 🤷♂️
you should add electrical tape to your wire nuts.
Why? Never ever seen that done. Pros dont do it. My uncle is an an electrical engineer. Pretty sure he knows what he's doing and he doesn't tape the wire nuts.
You don't need tape if done correctly.
This doesnt even look like the proper way to do this
Perfect example why carpenters should not do electrical work. This is a code violation. There is not enough access to the junction box and the box is not flush with the building finish.
You should create a video that demonstrates the correct way to upgrade an existing light fixture with a different block.
start with splicing the ground wire first, then the neutral, then the hot.
This method is a fire hazard, poor workmanship and code violation. please do not listen to this guy.
here is the code article
314.20 In Wall or Ceiling. In walls or ceilings with a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material, boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate shall be installed so that the front edge of the box, plaster ring, extension ring, or listed extender will not be set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (1⁄4 in.). In walls and ceilings constructed of wood or other combustible surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension rings, or listed extenders shall be flush with the finished surface or project therefrom.
+stevenj100 Nonsense. That code is for electrical boxes that employ a flush faceplate, not exterior lighting. The siding manufacturer's J-Block, and instructions inside the purchased light instruct installation in this manner.
+Mark Greer the reason for the code rule is no part of this install is rated to contain the splices. if those connections fail and heat up you have them in direct contact with combustibles. There are many violations here i just picked the first one. Where on that siding block does it have a UL listing for a electrical jbox? where is its fire rating? where is its cubic volume? each 14 gauge wire is required to have 2cubic sq inches of air space. All connections must be accessible with out disrupting the finish of the building. you are burying the old box behind a new finish.
You see how the original box is mounted? it make no sense to leave it mounted to the plywood and recessed 3 inches into the siding. Unmount it and bring it forward.
+Mark Greer. here is a link to the correct code siding block that is rated to be used with out an electrical box
www.amazon.com/Arlington-8141DBL-Siding-Mounting-Built/dp/B0069KVZZ4
the siding block you have requires a electrical box.
If the siding is stripped why do you think it no longer counts are new construction? The box i gave a link to is for non new contruction it mounts directly over the siding
+Mark Greer. Here is a link to the box for when the siding is stripped.
m.cesco.com/b2c/product/339012?gdftrk=gdfV25445_a_7c1847_a_7c7081_a_7c339012&gclid=CjwKEAiA64uyBRCVmKyT2vuAjzgSJADfINB6hjs63VIok3eCJMlmSEXbbN6tj1d3D9XGY6fbJMIEchoCjaXw_wcB
+Mark Greer on none of your paper work will show this type of install. Most likely That siding block will not even say its for electrical on any offical paperwork from the manufacturer.
Why is this guy so sad
amateurish camera movement
What do mean? The camera is on a tripod.
haaahhaaa . my point
N Kel (
Amateurish UA-cam comment
lol , 9 yrs ago you didn't really need motion sensors , with all the crime in 2024 , ya need motion sensors on every light