For anyone wanting to do this, I would suggest using a roller-type pipe cutter to cut the shaft, it makes it really easy to cut pipes with wires in them because the cutter is tightened incrementally by a tiny bit each time. That looks like a very clean setup for the kayak! Have you tried these motors on larger boats? I have a 55lb motor on my 11' inflatable and it's bulky as heck for what it is, a backup/emergency motor to supplement my 15hp gas burner. I never use it past 40% power, so I was considering one of these little guys.
+Gyppor I have never used more than the 24lb thrust on any kayak. Any larger motor doesn't really produce more speed just more thrust to move more weight up to same speed faster (aka acceleration). These motors are more efficient and I can use lighter batteries. Pipe cutter is handy but still need something to create notches on pipe.
Per your comment I made a quick video showing the tubing cutter method for shortening a trolling motor shaft. *VIDEO TUTORIAL: **ua-cam.com/video/5OsYElFbtb4/v-deo.html* *Tube Cutter: **amzn.to/2DviDI3*
Ditto on the tube cutter. If you’re a handyman around the house, you’ll use it several times a year on other projects. Very handy to have. Around 12 bucks at homedepot.
I made 2 of these, I drilled 2 holes on top one of each side and used foam in a can for windows and foamed up the inside cavity of the hobie cassette, when cured and expanded it wraps around shaft inside and keep it from spinning, so you have forward or rear trust and no worries of holding it straight. use rudder to steer. great video.
Thank you for the video. Just bought the 18lb version of this motor and a lithium 50mh battery! Can't wait to put this on my Pelican Getaway! Luck will be needed!
Awesome! Let me know how you like the Pelican Getaway. I really liked the Hobie Lynx and the Pelican Getaway has many similarities in hull shape and propulsion.
Reminder. It is recommended to add some sort of sealant to inside of shaft to prevent water from running down shaft and potentially into the motor. We used a marine silicone but there are lots of products out there. Our motor actually had a plug already in the shaft about 6" from motor but some might not or they might not be sealing well. Thus, we recommend this secondary precaution by sealing the end of the shaft where wires come out. Hopefully this tutorial helps you get on the water and for some of you catch more fish.
Great instructions. Just done mine. I used 27mm pvc pipe as spacers between the motor and block and again from the block to the control head. no up or down movement on the shaft.Thanks
@Oscar Espinoza: for the most part larger pound thrust won't equate to faster speed. Kayak hulls limit speed as well as prop pitch on the trolling motors limit speed. The higher lb thrust will allow for a little better ability to overcome choppy waters and high winds. The T24-SW surprised me with its capabilities. I checked my average pedal speed and found it to be 3mph most of the time...so 5mph top speed and average of 4.5mph was great for that motor I felt. I confirmed speeds with two different iPhone apps.
Jeff: the 4.5mph average was on high setting. Most trolling motors won't exceed that speed regardless of "LBs" of thrust due to propeller pitch and kayak hulls which limit top speed.
The mirage drive pedal drive is awesome. This is just another propulsion option for people. It is stowable in front hatch and nice for covering more ground. Hobie sells a mirage drive trolling motor but it is about $2k. This motor option can be made for 1/10th that price or less! I like the trolling motor for trolling baits. It keeps a steady speed.
I just bought a kayak this weekend... so excited to add some custom rod holders... I have a graph and a rail system for rod holders when I troll, but I just watched your "tower" video and now I have more ideas haha! great stuff man, tight lines.
+Jeffrey Watkin Thanks Jeffrey. We love PVC...It is a DIYer's dream material. We just built some PVC outriggers for a 10ft kayak and it worked amazing (I could stand up). Now the other folks on our canal have added them to their small kayaks so their grandkids can use them safer.
Great tutorial and tips on what to look for. I would offer the idea of using a simple pipe cutter to cut the pipe. It attachs on the pipe then uses a wheel cut to cut as it is rotated by hand. The cutting wheel will not cut the wires at all and you have better control then a dremmel. You don't need the pvc insert. Thanks for making this tutorial.
+Mitchell Lewis Agree a pipe cutter would make the shaft shortening process easier and cleaner but I would still need a Dremel to cut the notches in the end of the shaft.
Just bought one on ebay for $350...the ebay one can be adjusted and locked in position. just an fyi for those who may be interested but don't have the tools or skills to make one themselves. Great video! You definitely inspired me to look into this. I was going to try to make one but it would have cost me close to that amount after buying the tools etc. Subscribed and liked!
great build. why not put the trolling motor on the back and have the two pedal systems at the same time? wouldn't you have more power? just for thought. also, how can you make this build work for going a few miles offshore?
+Jesmine Diaz first off there is only one pedal drive. I could put it on the back but it would possibly create a snag point for my fishing lines. I preferred it mid mounted in the mirage drive.
Wanted to add 2 notes here after i have gotten more time on the water with mine recently. Go to your local paint store and grab one of the stir sticks! These are perfect when you want to remove the motor and the blades are sideways you can get them pointed up and down to pull it out easy. All i do is slide the stick along the cassette plug just aft of the locks, unlock the plug and pull it all up. saved me a ton of frustration and got the idea from the video of the evol motor, it has a bar that he pulled out after it was installed and it instantly hit me ooooooo thats what thats for. second quick note, if you're looking for the motor and Justin's link is out of them, go to the Seaeagle dot com and look for it there. Go Easy!
I put battery in front hatch with factory cable running under lid to the motor. No thu-hull. *All supplies linked in video description area below video.*
No one mentions in the video that you need to change the orientation of the motor head to the motor from the original packaging which is intended for the trolling motor to be behind you and not in front of you.
hi there. thanks for posting this DIY video. it's awesome! 2 questions for ya: 1.what size dia PVC pipe, & 2. what size saw piece on drill to cut hole into casette? TIA.
TheHocmaster Thanks. This setup works very well. Had done similar build a few years ago on one of the first mirage drive kayaks but it was heavier and a tighter fit. This one is ultra lightweight, more compact, more efficient, and saltwater ready.
A little food for thought next time you decide to cut down a trolling motor shaft like that buy a plumbers pipe cuter. you can find them at lowes, home depot or any hardware store for a alot less than that royobi wanta be dreamel. I've made the same cut down on 3 different trolling motors and I didn't need protect to my wiring like you just did. oh and the pipe cuter will cut the pipe in a fraction of the time that royobi will to. and your right having the "right " tool for the job does make a differeance.
Ed Jenkins: we received your email but were unable to reply to that address. Here is our reply. We don't produce the trolling motor for the Hobie Mirage Drives, but we have had a lot of interest and have considered it. We at this time only show folks how to make them. Primary reason is we are looking into patent related infringements that could be filed if we go into production. The evolve torqueedo that Hobie sponsors might be too similar. Also we need to look into liability. It is a really easy build. A pipe cutter could make light work of shortening the shaft. There isn't much to wiring inside the head unit. Sincerely, Justin Lammers KayakDIY
Great video, I learned alot. May I ask What size PVC did you use to protect the wires? Also what size hole did you drill in the replacement drive cartridge? Thanks
Very nice work. What size battery are you running? A small solar panel can chare it a bit while fishing. Great for return to shore after fighting with lings.
A UPG 35ah battery from here is what I have for it: www.amazon.com/s/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=trolling%20motor%20battery&linkCode=ur2&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Atrolling%20motor%20battery&tag=ytk-20&url=search-alias%3Daps&linkId=FFRXMEOIV5LLF6PZ
In the video I actually used a jumpstarter pack for testing but that is not a longterm solution and the battery isn't meant for that. The 35ah battery I linked above is much better and meant for light trolling motors. A lot of wheelchair batteries might not be bad either if you can find some. Many wheelchair refurbish centers remove batteries and replace with new regardless if battery is bad so sometimes you can find good deals.
Thank you very much fpr the video. Very helpful and i have watched all your videos and mimiced some diy youve done to yours. How are you steering? Are you steering with the trolling motor or with hobie rudder?
Al0f1 You can choose to leave the trolling motor loose in the plug or fix it in an inline position. For the time being we left ours loose for added steering. However, we will likely be adding a bracket to hold it in a fixed position and steer entirely with the Hobie rudder. Steering with the Hobie rudder works well and is very responsive in both forward and reverse.
Great video, where did you purchase the motor, and about how much does it cost. Also where did you get the additional plug and how much was that. When you add an electric to the Hobie do you now need to register it ? Thanks for the information.
Awesome video. Definitely a project that I can handle. Thanks for making and posting the video. The added footage of you using it was a plus. Is it safe to assume that you steer by using the rudder?
Thanks , i'm going to try this on one of my Revo's, one of the spots i fish has strong currents, this should help. what size battery do you use 40AH or 35AH and approx how long will it last?
+Oscar Espinoza Didn't see your comment till now. We use a 35ah usually and get all afternoon/evening use off/on (typical fishing). Haven't done in-depth tests on battery life.
I was going to buy 1 just like that on eBay for 400 and after watching your video I’ll buy the motor and plug and do it myself thanks are there any marks on were the wires go I don’t want to mess up and put them on wrong
oilheating take a photo of the wiring before you disconnect. Then you will know. I also show the switch wiring in this video and a video I did with a Viking kayak. It is pretty simple. Make sure you buy the right Hobie Cassette plug. If your kayak uses the tall rounded end plug you might not need to not shorten the shaft as much. 2015 Hobies I believe started to use a rounded taller plug. You want the correct plug for your kayak else it won’t fit snug and the motor torque will move plug. Only two plugs to choose from. *I have all supplies linked in video description. That is how I fund the channel.* 😁
KayakDIY one more question if u don’t mind? With a water snake t24 in mind. Hearing that the motor pulls roughly 20 amp draw on the highest setting. And me wanting at least 3-5 hours of drive time with the t24. What amp hour Dakota battery would u suggest. The twin has pack 23ah or the 54ah lithium battery? Or possibly something else entirely? Thanks again for your help, u don’t know how big of a help u have been.
its all good what you have done here its realy good and well thought out but all the shavings that you are creating by cutting and drilling the shaft are now traveling down the shaft to the motor and will be sticking to the magnets in the motor and depending on how much manages to get down there will depend on the longevity of your motor. food for thought.
If you use a roll cutter ,,,,,,, there are no shavings a good tip would be to tip upside down and shake for a sec for the slit for the top of the motor but personally I did not see any chips or shavings on my build
+Michael Corbitt those are still current motors. Try Seaeagle.com and search "Watersnake T24". If you have any kayak other than the PA14 you could consider the T18 size.
Great video and thanks so much for sharing! What is the shaft material? was just wondering because if it isn't stainless you might be able to use a tubing cutter and not have to mess with the pvc pipe..... Just a thought.. Keep up the great vids! W
Now the battery would be the biggest issue of how long the life of charge and the weight of the battery. Do you have have a good battery to start with? Seems a lot of dry cell ones are heavy that have a high capacity.
This video came as a request by subscribers. Did a similar build a few years back when the mirage series kayaks just came out but eventually sold the setup with the kayak. Decided I would build another after subscriber requests but this time with a more robust motor. This one turned out great. Others have built similar setups but use smaller motors. This motor is 33% more powerful than most you will find that use the 18lb thrust motors. Also after reviewing other designs people have made I discovered a major flaw. Many used motors that don't have replaceable props! The setup we show in the video has OEM replaceable props as well as aftermarket props available. Stay tuned to the channel for other trolling motor mount ideas. We will be releasing more motor mount ideas in the near future.
KayakDIY Wow, thanks for making the video and the help. This really helps. Tried watching other vids but they are just trying to sell them and don't provide details. I like the bigger motor choice. We are a Hobie kayak family but didn't want to by the torqueedo. For the price of one evolve torqueedo by Hobie I could build a trolling motor kit for all 4 of my Hobie kayaks and still have money in the bank!
Jim Fisk No problem. Glad we could be of help. We like getting project requests. Had one of these built few years ago but sold it with the kayak. This one is much faster/has quicker acceleration. We like this motor a lot. Efficient, lightweight, and quick.
+valuelessfawn6 You can purchase the motor from Sea Eagle (seaeagle.com) for $129. For me shipping was an additional $23 but still the trolling motor I wanted. Got it in about a week from the date ordered. Just finished the conversion/build and look forward to trying it out on my PA12.
personally i would never buy one, i like the kayak the way it is and using a paddle is part of the experience also i can get going pretty fast with a paddle so im good. thanks though
Great Video Just got my watersnake 24 and motor came out beautiful. Only problem is there is a hurricane coming up the coast and I can't try it out. Question on the motor : the insert has movement front to back and i was wondering if that's not a problem? Also,the top of the prop is 3" down from the underside . It that pretty much what your's came out to be? You mentioned turbulence if the prop was too low. Thanks
+Paul LeoGrande So in relation to prop depth it should be ok at 3". Closer to the bottom of the hull the better. The plug moving front to back some shouldn't be a big issue as long as the trolling motor is vertical in the plug and the plug attachment points are secure.
+Paul LeoGrande We didn't fill with foam but have considered it. Foam would need a few holes drilled for air to allow expansion. Foam sprayed in closed spaces won't expand. We are actually thinking of drilling drain holes to allow water that gets into plug to escape...that way when we stow the motor in hatch water doesn't drain into hatch.
Well I did it! I purchased the 24lb Water Snake. It works beautiful. I found that the motor wanted to turn so I placed both my feel on the side of the motor. Any one have any suggestions to keep the the motor in the straight position as I have a pro angler 14 ft. I might also add that having a paint stick to position the prop for take out works great or push the forward button to get the position correct for take out
+Joseph UdodoU you can mount an L bracket to the plug and use a hose clamp to secure it to the motor shaft. That will help hold the trolling motor in line. Glad it is otherwise working well for you.
Thank you so much for the quick rely I know your a busy man. I will go to Lowe's today and look at L clamps. The motor on the kayak ran as smooth as a kitten. Having been diagnosed with leukemia and having my abilities decrease with lifting the kayak on to the trailer I am going to look at other options on perhaps using some pvc 6 inch and see if it will work on my skid boards by putting them on the edge of the skid boards for dropping and loading along with a wrench to crack it up. I am a VN vet and handicapped and I am not going to allow any increase in disability keep me from my pleasure. What you shared on your video was a breath of fresh air. Thank you very much Sir I sent two photos facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1248981375212369&set=pcb.1248981615212345&type=3&theater facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1248981375212369&set=pcb.1248981615212345&type=3&theater again thank you very much and now I am still able to teach others on how to enjoy a kayak on the water
hello and congratulations for the video really nice, I'm an Italian guy and I have a hobie outback and I was doing everything as shown in your video, but I have a probleme with the engine does not know whether the connections are within the correct cables for example ... the reverse is the most powerful of the forward is right ??
I duplicated your trolling motor build but got tired of leaning forward to press the control buttons. I installed control switches beside my seat and a waterproof plug for the wires. Thanks for the inspiration!
Happy to help. We didn't want to separate the switches. We wanted an all-in-one stowable system. However, you are not the only one to mention that. At the end of the day do what works for you! Thanks for stopping by!
There is a small prop guard, but mostly need to just avoid use in shallow water. Good thing is it easily can be installed and removed while on the water. I store mine in the front PA14 hatch until I want to use it.
HavE you addressed the issue with motor spinning so you don’t have to hold with your feet or how to get motor out every time I have stopped the prop is sideways and I can’t reach under boat or in plug hole to straighten it’s to remove I have to load the boat off land to remove it any ideas otherwise genius idea with a few hiccups
You could use the head (control unit) as a remote unit without cutting the wires and Velcro it anywhere you like . That way you could have cut the pipe flush with the drive blank.
+flyerh flyerh true. Considered that but liked the all in one setup. Might consider that for my Hobie Tandem Island. In upcoming month or so you can likely expect another hobie motor video with a added surprise. Playing with some ideas.
I finally got one of these motors and plan to try it this year on my Tandem. Not sure how well it will perform on the much bigger Kayak but worth a try.
My second generation of this has a 90 degree stainless 1” diameter stanchion mount attached to the plug. The trolling motor goes through that stanchion mount and set screws tighten to shaft and hold it inline so it doesn’t spin.
is the 5mph standard with this motor? i know of others that have ti use a 45lb thrust to get that speed. What about if you accidentally hit a rock while its deployed?
Great video. I actually made one of my own based on your video. Thanks! Question...when you drilled the holes and cut the notches I noticed you had the shaft upright and any shavings would have fallen in the shaft that goes right into the motor... did you check this or have you had any issues with your motor due to the shavings? Just curious. Thanks.
Next time you need to cut tubing use a tubing cutter. you will not have to go with the extra step of using pvc and it will give you a better end .Not a jagged end and the wires will be protected .Great build !
+pairaboots ABSOLUTELY! Having the right tool saves a lot of headaches and extra work. We figured most people would use a hack saw or similar method so wanted to show a method to protect wiring. Ultimately a pipe cutter would be the best tool.
Quick question do have drill the holl in the middle of the cassette or could you drill in gray area. Just in case one of the plastics tabs breaks on the side and could put a metal rod.
+KayakDIY thank you for taking the time to respond. I have one other question, I just purchased a Lowrance Hook 4 and am having trouble finding the best spot to attach the transducer. I have water several videos about it but still unsure about the location. I am toying with making an arm out of pvc and running it over the side or attaching it to the side of the front hull. Any suggestions?
For a DIY build I would likely make a PVC arm and just have it hang over the side. The only other option that is popular is to use duct seal putty to seal it on the inside bottom of hull and have it read/shoot through hull. The pvc arm will lead to best results likely.
+remelsheikh We just bought another from Amazon (link in description) not more than a week ago. Must have just missed it. They haven't been too bad at restocking them. There are otherwise a few others in U.S that sell them but sometimes they charge more than Amazon.
Thanks. Definitely fun. I don’t use this one much since getting a Bixpy with lighter weight battery and wireless remote. However, for the money this DIY motor works pretty dang well.
I am looking at the motor mount trolling motors and at first glance they appear to be perfect for this type of setup. They include a wired speed controller and there is no shaft to deal with. I am trying to figure out if the Minnkoda EM 55 will fit through the mirage drive well. If not there may be smaller alternatives as well.
+Chuck Wilson not even the Minn Kota C2 Endura 30lb thrust fit. Highly doubt the EM55 would. I thought I would damage the mirage drive opening due to force when trying to fit the Minn Kota 30. Watersnake ASP motors drop in easily without turning/twisting to make fit. Thus, I chose to use those.
I really liked your trolling motor for your kayak. In fact, I made me one also after watching your method. I ended up however cutting off an extra 1.5" from your model. I cut as per yours, but went back later and took off another 1.5". I haven't tried it out yet in the water, however, it all looks to work great. My only issue is that if the propeller is not lined up jus right, I cannot remove the trolling motor to revert back to the pedals unless I get under the kayak to turn the propeller to remove ort hits the opening. It did it on the longer version as well as my shorter version. Do you have a method to remove the motor while inside the boat? Either way, thanks for the instructions, they were most useful.
Oh, ok. Sad to say, I secured my plug to the shaft using epoxy putty. Will have to see if I can have a way to position it and possibly grind down the epoxy if needed to allow moving mine. I glued mint to prevent water from getting into plug from shaft area but likely not needed. I also have another plug in case I ever need it. Thank you!
Putting a wood paint stick that you use to stir paint works very well just tape it on the kayak somewhere with airplane tape and bam its there when you need it. You can bump the motor on and off a few times till it lines up but I have found the stick just does the trick
+Rick McClellan Hahaha. I do pack a small cooler and propane/butane stove. It works great for pulling up to one of the islands and cooking up my catches.
I know this is quite old now but if you happen to see this please help! The issue im having is a dumb one but I cant seem to unplug the wires from the motor head. They are crimped on so tight and I feel like im going to break the switches or the wires trying to yank on them in that tight space. How did you manage it??
Since the Control Unit only houses the switches do you think it would be feasible to eliminate it and run the wires to a couple of switches mounted on the kayak? My thinking is to minimize the amount of the motor protruding from the cassette. That is if i can get my hands on one of these motors, lol.
It has enough, but it is not really much of a weight savings and doesn’t cost much less than the 24. That is why I typically do the 24. The 24 is nice in choppy waters and high winds.
how long can you run that motor before battery dies & what size battery do you have. I like your boat is not cluttered like alot of the ones I see are.
+BBBYpsi For typical outing I get by easily with this battery linked below. It covers me for a typical afternoon/evening of fishing. I also have used a group 27 battery that gets me all weekend use (on/off 50% fishing 50% trolling). www.amazon.com/s/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=trolling%20motor%20battery&linkCode=ur2&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Atrolling%20motor%20battery&tag=ytk-20&url=search-alias%3Daps&linkId=FFRXMEOIV5LLF6PZ
+BBBYpsi This is the smart charger I use for my portable fish finder battery and larger trolling motor battery. It is awesome but a bit pricey. It however has saved/revived batteries I thought were toast. amzn.to/1oLRLbO
mike abang *yes, if you buy same motor I used it will fit the Hobie Compass. It should fit any Hobie mirage pedal kayak.* www.amazon.com/dp/B007NVNPM4/?tag=ytk-20 *Just need the plastic plug that fits your drive best. Often plastic plug comes with kayak.*
+KayakDIY i have seen the hole drilled through the front portion of the plug and wanted your thoughts. I understand it is to get the unit a few inches closer to reach but i was wondering if it puts any strange tension or wear on the parts of the cassette or motor itself? This as opposed to the way you did it through the center (Grey part) of the newer style plugs? Thanks!
i went with the center as the black piece is really separate from the grey piece so i figure it would stabilize it a little better. i filled the center with expanding foam and will drill the hole through that as well,just more rigidity or at least thats what the plan is lol.
I prefer to go through the center because it has more material to not only handle stress, but to bolt a bracket to for preventing the motor shaft from turning in plug. I also just think it looks better symmetrical. I don't think it would harm either way.
hi KayakDIY.. Appreciate the post... I have a tandem PA17 and looking for something with a little more thrust...For fit comparison, What are the dimensions of the watersnake T24? 1) Diameter of motor housing 2) length from nose to rear facing motor hub 3) Diameter of prop. Really appreciate your help
+Bob Creed don't have one on hand to measure at moment. What I can say is if you go bigger the motor guide brand motors might have a 30-40lb thrust similar in size. I chose the T24 due to it being ultra-lightweight and still able to propel my PA-14 reasonably well. Minn Kota C2 Endura 30 didn't fit the mirage drive and we didn't like how heavy it was. If you go with a larger lb thrust motor I highly suggest incorporating a PWM from wireless trolling pro website. It will give you a lot more run time.
WARNING!!!! Before starting this build PLEASE CONSIDER THESE FACTORS!!!! Cutting 11.5 inches off will be a little short when incorporating small adjustments for drag of friction & making the most important correction when using only rudder steering. I Notice he fails to tell you that he has to use his feet to keep the unit straight. Use also a pipe cutter it's much more precise.cutting off only 10 or 10.5 inches works better for rudder control & friction of circular motion of water around the propeller spin at the bottom of hobie kayak. LASTLY THE BEST PRODUCT I FOUND TO KEEP THE UNIT FROM TURING ON ITS OWN, OR KEEPING IT STRAIGHT WITH THE MIRAGE INSERT IS CALLED A PEX CLAMP, MADE BY SHARK BITE. .25 cents a piece, 3/4 or 1 inch will work, use 2 #14 x 3/4 self taping hex head screw to attach. I put a thin pice of rubber strip in or lined the inside of clamp to better grip the motors shaft. Use a typical auto hose clamp around the PEX clamp to tighten, done!!! Cheap, light & very effective. FYI.
Thanks for the tips Tim! I am about to begin my build today so very helpful as i was debating the length to cut off. will go with the 10" and go from there, can always cut off more if i dont like it. The Pex clamp, i am trying to picture what your saying but think i am looking at the wrong clamp. they have the Pex clamps that basically look like pipe clamps or there are ones called PEX Suspension Tube Clamp? i see what your talking about tho and need a way to secure it in place from turning at all.
Brad Wyatt , yeah , the clamp is about 1 inch long, usually black with two little like feet on it with holes pre drilled on the feet or tabs, made of plastic, has a slit down it to open around the shaft, if still need more clarity I'll text anyone a pic or two!!! Going walleye fishing, Trenton channel Michigan tonight, mine ran for 3 hours steady last night with no glitches except removing the unit quickly becus prop alignment , still figuring a easy fix for that other than a paint stick!!! Good luck 😇
yeah went and grabbed some but grabbed the 3/4" instead of the 1" which i need. thinking i might put one below and one above the plug. Is the alignment problem that it doesnt stay centered? Good Luck!!!
Mr. Williams could you plz send me a pic of the Pex clamps Sir. Being handicapped I thought my kayaking days we're limited not any more. Thank you Sir here is a pic of my install currently facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1248965588547281&set=a.306230559487460.64773.100003015545273&type=3&theater facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1248981375212369&set=pcb.1248981615212345&type=3&theater
See link to motor in video description. It is currently on sale!!!! Only $119. Don't know how long the sale will last. Even at the original price it is a deal. This motor rocks!
+Theodore Aniskoff Yes it came with one but I wanted a motor option for trolling baits. I also wanted to see if I could build one for a lot less than the Hobie torqueedo/evolve drives.
For the test I simply used a jump starter battery which is NOT recommended. I will likely use one of the trolling motor 35ah batteries like I link to in video description. Although the jump starter battery did last long enough to get me all the way around the lake.
For anyone wanting to do this, I would suggest using a roller-type pipe cutter to cut the shaft, it makes it really easy to cut pipes with wires in them because the cutter is tightened incrementally by a tiny bit each time. That looks like a very clean setup for the kayak!
Have you tried these motors on larger boats? I have a 55lb motor on my 11' inflatable and it's bulky as heck for what it is, a backup/emergency motor to supplement my 15hp gas burner. I never use it past 40% power, so I was considering one of these little guys.
+Gyppor I have never used more than the 24lb thrust on any kayak. Any larger motor doesn't really produce more speed just more thrust to move more weight up to same speed faster (aka acceleration). These motors are more efficient and I can use lighter batteries. Pipe cutter is handy but still need something to create notches on pipe.
Gyppor yep works much better thats what I use
Per your comment I made a quick video showing the tubing cutter method for shortening a trolling motor shaft.
*VIDEO TUTORIAL: **ua-cam.com/video/5OsYElFbtb4/v-deo.html*
*Tube Cutter: **amzn.to/2DviDI3*
Ditto on the tube cutter. If you’re a handyman around the house, you’ll use it several times a year on other projects. Very handy to have. Around 12 bucks at homedepot.
I made 2 of these, I drilled 2 holes on top one of each side and used foam in a can for windows and foamed up the inside cavity of the hobie cassette, when cured and expanded it wraps around shaft inside and keep it from spinning, so you have forward or rear trust and no worries of holding it straight. use rudder to steer. great video.
+Travis Thanks for your feedback and comment. That sounds like an option as well. We just weren't sure how the foam would last in saltwater over time.
I have the 24 lb thrust one. Have you thought of adding a pen to the motor head? Craig (Cromarty Scotland)
Excellent top speed and the difference between 1 and 5 are equally distributed. Great motor!
Thank you for the video. Just bought the 18lb version of this motor and a lithium 50mh battery! Can't wait to put this on my Pelican Getaway! Luck will be needed!
Awesome! Let me know how you like the Pelican Getaway. I really liked the Hobie Lynx and the Pelican Getaway has many similarities in hull shape and propulsion.
Reminder. It is recommended to add some sort of sealant to inside of shaft to prevent water from running down shaft and potentially into the motor. We used a marine silicone but there are lots of products out there. Our motor actually had a plug already in the shaft about 6" from motor but some might not or they might not be sealing well. Thus, we recommend this secondary precaution by sealing the end of the shaft where wires come out. Hopefully this tutorial helps you get on the water and for some of you catch more fish.
Great instructions. Just done mine. I used 27mm pvc pipe as spacers between the motor and block and again from the block to the control head. no up or down movement on the shaft.Thanks
+Trevor C Powick thanks for the feedback and your thoughts.
Thanks...
This is on the top of my list for this winter, trolling motor upgrade.
Great job on this video
Hi justin now that's very nicely presented I would use some spray foam in the cassette to stiffen the unit 😀 😄 😊
I will say it hasn’t really felt like it needed additional stiffness. However, it would prevent water filling cassette. Still not bad idea. 😊
@Oscar Espinoza: for the most part larger pound thrust won't equate to faster speed. Kayak hulls limit speed as well as prop pitch on the trolling motors limit speed. The higher lb thrust will allow for a little better ability to overcome choppy waters and high winds. The T24-SW surprised me with its capabilities. I checked my average pedal speed and found it to be 3mph most of the time...so 5mph top speed and average of 4.5mph was great for that motor I felt. I confirmed speeds with two different iPhone apps.
Is the 4.5 mph average on the low or high setting?
Jeff: the 4.5mph average was on high setting. Most trolling motors won't exceed that speed regardless of "LBs" of thrust due to propeller pitch and kayak hulls which limit top speed.
But isn't the Mirage Drive to avoid trolling motor?
But great job overall looks like manufactured build
The mirage drive pedal drive is awesome. This is just another propulsion option for people. It is stowable in front hatch and nice for covering more ground. Hobie sells a mirage drive trolling motor but it is about $2k. This motor option can be made for 1/10th that price or less! I like the trolling motor for trolling baits. It keeps a steady speed.
I just bought a kayak this weekend... so excited to add some custom rod holders... I have a graph and a rail system for rod holders when I troll, but I just watched your "tower" video and now I have more ideas haha! great stuff man, tight lines.
+Jeffrey Watkin Thanks Jeffrey. We love PVC...It is a DIYer's dream material. We just built some PVC outriggers for a 10ft kayak and it worked amazing (I could stand up). Now the other folks on our canal have added them to their small kayaks so their grandkids can use them safer.
Great tutorial and tips on what to look for. I would offer the idea of using a simple pipe cutter to cut the pipe. It attachs on the pipe then uses a wheel cut to cut as it is rotated by hand. The cutting wheel will not cut the wires at all and you have better control then a dremmel. You don't need the pvc insert. Thanks for making this tutorial.
+Mitchell Lewis Agree a pipe cutter would make the shaft shortening process easier and cleaner but I would still need a Dremel to cut the notches in the end of the shaft.
Thanks again for the post.
@OscarEspinoza the hole saw size was 1-1/8" for that trolling motor shaft.
The shaft is actually 1", so it could be cut out with 1" for a tighter fit.
I bought a 54lb thrust 12v Motorguide trolling motor at the thrift store for $20. I gotta go for it. Thanks.
Just bought one on ebay for $350...the ebay one can be adjusted and locked in position. just an fyi for those who may be interested but don't have the tools or skills to make one themselves. Great video! You definitely inspired me to look into this. I was going to try to make one but it would have cost me close to that amount after buying the tools etc. Subscribed and liked!
How do you like it? I'm thinking of buying the same one from ebay
is it still on ebay? If so, can you say what the link is or what to search for to find it?
Just made this for my outback, works like a dream, thanks for the great tip's.
+ANDY WATTERS Happy to help! Glad you enjoy it. Please help us by sharing our channel with friends.
Where did you purchase the motor from? I can't find the Watersnake T24-SW Trolling Motor anywhere?
+Sidney Womack purchased it at wwwAnglersworld.ie in Ireland.
How fast will it move your outback? Also what type of battery and how much life does it give the motor?
Good morning
great installation I did the same but how do you prevent it from rotating in the block?
THANKS
great build. why not put the trolling motor on the back and have the two pedal systems at the same time? wouldn't you have more power? just for thought. also, how can you make this build work for going a few miles offshore?
+Jesmine Diaz first off there is only one pedal drive. I could put it on the back but it would possibly create a snag point for my fishing lines. I preferred it mid mounted in the mirage drive.
Wanted to add 2 notes here after i have gotten more time on the water with mine recently. Go to your local paint store and grab one of the stir sticks! These are perfect when you want to remove the motor and the blades are sideways you can get them pointed up and down to pull it out easy. All i do is slide the stick along the cassette plug just aft of the locks, unlock the plug and pull it all up. saved me a ton of frustration and got the idea from the video of the evol motor, it has a bar that he pulled out after it was installed and it instantly hit me ooooooo thats what thats for.
second quick note, if you're looking for the motor and Justin's link is out of them, go to the Seaeagle dot com and look for it there. Go Easy!
+Brad Wyatt thanks. I actually talked to SeaEagle at icast about this DIY mod. Encouraged them to keep up stock of motors.
Nice build and great tutorial. What is the battery and how did you connect battery terminals? Waterproof? Through the hull?
I put battery in front hatch with factory cable running under lid to the motor. No thu-hull.
*All supplies linked in video description area below video.*
No one mentions in the video that you need to change the orientation of the motor head to the motor from the original packaging which is intended for the trolling motor to be behind you and not in front of you.
hi there. thanks for posting this DIY video. it's awesome!
2 questions for ya:
1.what size dia PVC pipe, &
2. what size saw piece on drill to cut hole into casette?
TIA.
+manny m Amp draw should be 24amps peak on high. The slow speed would work great for trolling most lures/baits.
Thanks , a small battery will work fine then.
Next time a $5 pipe cutter will cut that extension without risk of wire damage! Love this video.
suggestion, instead of the cutter you used, try a simple plumbing copper tube cutter, it will work much easier and less dangerous as well.
+joseph nairb Definitely would be a more useful tool for the job but I didn't own one because I had no use for one until now.
Great video !! Thank you for sharing. Now I just have to get a replacement grey drive cartridge.
Jimmy Vee No problem. Happy to be of help. Thanks for stopping by Jimmy.
I allways wanted to try that... nice job!
TheHocmaster Thanks. This setup works very well. Had done similar build a few years ago on one of the first mirage drive kayaks but it was heavier and a tighter fit. This one is ultra lightweight, more compact, more efficient, and saltwater ready.
A little food for thought next time you decide to cut down a trolling motor shaft like that buy a plumbers pipe cuter. you can find them at lowes, home depot or any hardware store for a alot less than that royobi wanta be dreamel. I've made the same cut down on 3 different trolling motors and I didn't need protect to my wiring like you just did. oh and the pipe cuter will cut the pipe in a fraction of the time that royobi will to. and your right having the "right " tool for the job does make a differeance.
Pipe cutter would be the best tool for the job. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome video! Any suggestion where to get T24SW? Also, what is the best battery option for it? I have a Hobie Outfitter (tandem). Thanks a lot!
Ed Jenkins: we received your email but were unable to reply to that address. Here is our reply.
We don't produce the trolling motor for the Hobie Mirage Drives, but we have had a lot of interest and have considered it. We at this time only show folks how to make them. Primary reason is we are looking into patent related infringements that could be filed if we go into production. The evolve torqueedo that Hobie sponsors might be too similar. Also we need to look into liability. It is a really easy build. A pipe cutter could make light work of shortening the shaft. There isn't much to wiring inside the head unit.
Sincerely,
Justin Lammers
KayakDIY
Great idea . Will this same motor setup fit hobie outback ? Thanks
this is awesome! what kind of run time are we talking here?
Awesome video will be doing the same thing to my hobie quick question what mount and pole are u using for your gopro
Same one I did a video on. I show how I made it. Should be able to find it in my video list. Else search KayakDIY gopro camera pole.
I would suggest a pipe cutter >> same as you would use for copper pipe for cutting shaft
Yeah didn’t have one at the time. In more recent video I show that method of shortening a shaft.
Great video, I learned alot. May I ask What size PVC did you use to protect the wires? Also what size hole did you drill in the replacement drive cartridge? Thanks
Pvc used was 3/4" OD
Do you ever have trouble getting it back out if the propeller is horizontal and not vertical?
Nah…pretty easy. It can catch a little, but has never been a hinderance.
@@KayakDIY All good. Im going to do the same with a 3 waters Big fish 120.
nice build! I wish you the best.
Thank you. After I posted, I went to state and it is a requirement. Nice site.
+SeeMooreVids Yep...depends where you live. Although usually it is really cheap.
Very nice work. What size battery are you running? A small solar panel can chare it a bit while fishing. Great for return to shore after fighting with lings.
A UPG 35ah battery from here is what I have for it: www.amazon.com/s/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=trolling%20motor%20battery&linkCode=ur2&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Atrolling%20motor%20battery&tag=ytk-20&url=search-alias%3Daps&linkId=FFRXMEOIV5LLF6PZ
In the video I actually used a jumpstarter pack for testing but that is not a longterm solution and the battery isn't meant for that. The 35ah battery I linked above is much better and meant for light trolling motors. A lot of wheelchair batteries might not be bad either if you can find some. Many wheelchair refurbish centers remove batteries and replace with new regardless if battery is bad so sometimes you can find good deals.
Thank you very much fpr the video. Very helpful and i have watched all your videos and mimiced some diy youve done to yours. How are you steering? Are you steering with the trolling motor or with hobie rudder?
Al0f1 You can choose to leave the trolling motor loose in the plug or fix it in an inline position. For the time being we left ours loose for added steering. However, we will likely be adding a bracket to hold it in a fixed position and steer entirely with the Hobie rudder. Steering with the Hobie rudder works well and is very responsive in both forward and reverse.
Great video, where did you purchase the motor, and about how much does it cost. Also where did you get the additional plug and how much was that. When you add an electric to the Hobie do you now need to register it ? Thanks for the information.
Check out the video description below the video for links to all the supplies including the motor. I will try to keep this updated.
Registering depends on your location you will have to check with your local departments. Some states do require it.
Awesome video. Definitely a project that I can handle. Thanks for making and posting the video. The added footage of you using it was a plus. Is it safe to assume that you steer by using the rudder?
Correct. I steer with factory rudder.
Thanks , i'm going to try this on one of my Revo's, one of the spots i fish has strong currents, this should help. what size battery do you use 40AH or 35AH and approx how long will it last?
+Oscar Espinoza Didn't see your comment till now. We use a 35ah usually and get all afternoon/evening use off/on (typical fishing). Haven't done in-depth tests on battery life.
I was going to buy 1 just like that on eBay for 400 and after watching your video I’ll buy the motor and plug and do it myself thanks are there any marks on were the wires go I don’t want to mess up and put them on wrong
oilheating take a photo of the wiring before you disconnect. Then you will know. I also show the switch wiring in this video and a video I did with a Viking kayak. It is pretty simple. Make sure you buy the right Hobie Cassette plug. If your kayak uses the tall rounded end plug you might not need to not shorten the shaft as much. 2015 Hobies I believe started to use a rounded taller plug. You want the correct plug for your kayak else it won’t fit snug and the motor torque will move plug. Only two plugs to choose from.
*I have all supplies linked in video description. That is how I fund the channel.* 😁
KayakDIY one more question if u don’t mind? With a water snake t24 in mind. Hearing that the motor pulls roughly 20 amp draw on the highest setting. And me wanting at least 3-5 hours of drive time with the t24. What amp hour Dakota battery would u suggest. The twin has pack 23ah or the 54ah lithium battery? Or possibly something else entirely? Thanks again for your help, u don’t know how big of a help u have been.
its all good what you have done here its realy good and well thought out but all the shavings that you are creating by cutting and drilling the shaft are now traveling down the shaft to the motor and will be sticking to the magnets in the motor and depending on how much manages to get down there will depend on the longevity of your motor. food for thought.
If you use a roll cutter ,,,,,,, there are no shavings a good tip would be to tip upside down and shake for a sec for the slit for the top of the motor but personally I did not see any chips or shavings on my build
There is an internal seal above the motor.
Could you suggest current motors that would work since this video is 2 years old? Thanks! Awesome video.
+Michael Corbitt those are still current motors. Try Seaeagle.com and search "Watersnake T24". If you have any kayak other than the PA14 you could consider the T18 size.
Ok I have the outback. I looked on Seaeagle.com and they have them in Stock. Thanks!
Great video and thanks so much for sharing! What is the shaft material? was just wondering because if it isn't stainless you might be able to use a tubing cutter and not have to mess with the pvc pipe..... Just a thought.. Keep up the great vids! W
Walt G It has stainless steel external and internal parts. The shaft is stainless steel. Great suggestion otherwise. Thanks for stopping by Walt.
Now the battery would be the biggest issue of how long the life of charge and the weight of the battery. Do you have have a good battery to start with? Seems a lot of dry cell ones are heavy that have a high capacity.
HI ,,,,OOP'S,,,,, I FORGOT TO ASK YOU HOW DO YOU ALIGN THE PROPELLER BLADE CAN YOU SHOW ME HOW YOU DO THIS,,DO YOU HAVE A STIFF WIRE WITH YOU
This video came as a request by subscribers. Did a similar build a few years back when the mirage series kayaks just came out but eventually sold the setup with the kayak. Decided I would build another after subscriber requests but this time with a more robust motor. This one turned out great. Others have built similar setups but use smaller motors. This motor is 33% more powerful than most you will find that use the 18lb thrust motors. Also after reviewing other designs people have made I discovered a major flaw. Many used motors that don't have replaceable props! The setup we show in the video has OEM replaceable props as well as aftermarket props available. Stay tuned to the channel for other trolling motor mount ideas. We will be releasing more motor mount ideas in the near future.
KayakDIY Wow, thanks for making the video and the help. This really helps. Tried watching other vids but they are just trying to sell them and don't provide details. I like the bigger motor choice. We are a Hobie kayak family but didn't want to by the torqueedo. For the price of one evolve torqueedo by Hobie I could build a trolling motor kit for all 4 of my Hobie kayaks and still have money in the bank!
Jim Fisk No problem. Glad we could be of help. We like getting project requests. Had one of these built few years ago but sold it with the kayak. This one is much faster/has quicker acceleration. We like this motor a lot. Efficient, lightweight, and quick.
+KayakDIY they dont sell the motors anymore :(
+valuelessfawn6 You can purchase the motor from Sea Eagle (seaeagle.com) for $129. For me shipping was an additional $23 but still the trolling motor I wanted. Got it in about a week from the date ordered. Just finished the conversion/build and look forward to trying it out on my PA12.
personally i would never buy one, i like the kayak the way it is and using a paddle is part of the experience also i can get going pretty fast with a paddle so im good. thanks though
Great Video Just got my watersnake 24 and motor came out beautiful. Only problem is there is a hurricane coming up the coast and I can't try it out. Question on the motor : the insert has movement front to back and i was wondering if that's not a problem? Also,the top of the prop is 3" down from the underside . It that pretty much what your's came out to be? You mentioned turbulence if the prop was too low. Thanks
+Paul LeoGrande Also,did you fill the insert with foam after the build?
+Paul LeoGrande So in relation to prop depth it should be ok at 3". Closer to the bottom of the hull the better. The plug moving front to back some shouldn't be a big issue as long as the trolling motor is vertical in the plug and the plug attachment points are secure.
+Paul LeoGrande We didn't fill with foam but have considered it. Foam would need a few holes drilled for air to allow expansion. Foam sprayed in closed spaces won't expand. We are actually thinking of drilling drain holes to allow water that gets into plug to escape...that way when we stow the motor in hatch water doesn't drain into hatch.
Well I did it! I purchased the 24lb Water Snake. It works beautiful. I found that the motor wanted to turn so I placed both my feel on the side of the motor. Any one have any suggestions to keep the the motor in the straight position as I have a pro angler 14 ft. I might also add that having a paint stick to position the prop for take out works great or push the forward button to get the position correct for take out
+Joseph UdodoU you can mount an L bracket to the plug and use a hose clamp to secure it to the motor shaft. That will help hold the trolling motor in line. Glad it is otherwise working well for you.
Thank you so much for the quick rely I know your a busy man. I will go to Lowe's today and look at L clamps. The motor on the kayak ran as smooth as a kitten. Having been diagnosed with leukemia and having my abilities decrease with lifting the kayak on to the trailer I am going to look at other options on perhaps using some pvc 6 inch and see if it will work on my skid boards by putting them on the edge of the skid boards for dropping and loading along with a wrench to crack it up. I am a VN vet and handicapped and I am not going to allow any increase in disability keep me from my pleasure. What you shared on your video was a breath of fresh air. Thank you very much Sir I sent two photos facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1248981375212369&set=pcb.1248981615212345&type=3&theater facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1248981375212369&set=pcb.1248981615212345&type=3&theater again thank you very much and now I am still able to teach others on how to enjoy a kayak on the water
Joseph UdodoU you sir are an inspiration to many. Wish you healing and beautiful waters. Let me know if there are any other ways I can be of help.
Thank you Sir
hello and congratulations for the video really nice, I'm an Italian guy and I have a hobie outback and I was doing everything as shown in your video, but I have a probleme with the engine does not know whether the connections are within the correct cables for example ... the reverse is the most powerful of the forward is right ??
Try using a plumbers pipe cutter it will make a better cut when cutting the shaft
Great video. I noticed that you did not reinstall the handle. How did you fill the hole where the handle came out of?
The handle on that trolling motor telescopes in "flush" and telescopes out.
great modification.
Nice build. How many miles do you think it would go on a single 35ah battery?
I duplicated your trolling motor build but got tired of leaning forward to press the control buttons. I installed control switches beside my seat and a waterproof plug for the wires. Thanks for the inspiration!
Happy to help. We didn't want to separate the switches. We wanted an all-in-one stowable system. However, you are not the only one to mention that. At the end of the day do what works for you! Thanks for stopping by!
Hi. I know this video is about 4yrs old but how has it been holding up? What kind of battery do you use and how long does it last?
Awesome idea. Will it move if I hit a rock so it doesn't get damaged?
There is a small prop guard, but mostly need to just avoid use in shallow water. Good thing is it easily can be installed and removed while on the water. I store mine in the front PA14 hatch until I want to use it.
KayakDIY thanks for always getting back to me. GREATLY appreciated.
mkdzr72 I try. 🙂
Killed it! nice job! and thanks for the video
HavE you addressed the issue with motor spinning so you don’t have to hold with your feet or how to get motor out every time I have stopped the prop is sideways and I can’t reach under boat or in plug hole to straighten it’s to remove I have to load the boat off land to remove it any ideas otherwise genius idea with a few hiccups
You could use the head (control unit) as a remote unit without cutting the wires and Velcro it anywhere you like . That way you could have cut the pipe flush with the drive blank.
+flyerh flyerh true. Considered that but liked the all in one setup. Might consider that for my Hobie Tandem Island. In upcoming month or so you can likely expect another hobie motor video with a added surprise. Playing with some ideas.
I finally got one of these motors and plan to try it this year on my Tandem. Not sure how well it will perform on the much bigger Kayak but worth a try.
Also, how do you keep it so it doesnt move left and right? How do you keep it in a fixed position?
My second generation of this has a 90 degree stainless 1” diameter stanchion mount attached to the plug. The trolling motor goes through that stanchion mount and set screws tighten to shaft and hold it inline so it doesn’t spin.
is the 5mph standard with this motor? i know of others that have ti use a 45lb thrust to get that speed. What about if you accidentally hit a rock while its deployed?
Great video. I actually made one of my own based on your video. Thanks!
Question...when you drilled the holes and cut the notches I noticed you had the shaft upright and any shavings would have fallen in the shaft that goes right into the motor... did you check this or have you had any issues with your motor due to the shavings? Just curious. Thanks.
Should I put a inline fuse from the battery to the motor or I dont have too ?
Have you had any problems with the watersnake motor? Do you recommend it?
Next time you need to cut tubing use a tubing cutter. you will not have to go with the extra step of using pvc and it will give you a better end .Not a jagged end and the wires will be protected .Great build !
+pairaboots ABSOLUTELY! Having the right tool saves a lot of headaches and extra work. We figured most people would use a hack saw or similar method so wanted to show a method to protect wiring. Ultimately a pipe cutter would be the best tool.
Quick question do have drill the holl in the middle of the cassette or could you drill in gray area. Just in case one of the plastics tabs breaks on the side and could put a metal rod.
How do you make the cassette plug solid to the shaft? Or is it not important. Thanks
Awesome video definitely have to try.
+Dee Fl Television This motor build has proven to be one of the best mods we have done.
Well done
Nice job.
Just wondering. Is a motorboat state registration required by using a power driven in a kayak? Probably a state by state ruling.
+SeeMooreVids You are correct it is a state by state ruling. It usually is super cheap though if your state requires it.
Can you also share the size hole saw you used for the hobie cartridge.
+Oscar Espinoza Hole saw size 1-1/8"
I know your setup works great on a Hobie, but can it be adapted for my 14' Wilderness Tarpon?
I wonder if it would make it alittle more water tight if you made a gasket fit around plug!
Certainly could. I haven’t had much water intrusion issues from around the plug. Thanks for the suggestion/idea though. It couldn’t hurt.
+KayakDIY thank you for taking the time to respond. I have one other question, I just purchased a Lowrance Hook 4 and am having trouble finding the best spot to attach the transducer. I have water several videos about it but still unsure about the location. I am toying with making an arm out of pvc and running it over the side or attaching it to the side of the front hull. Any suggestions?
For a DIY build I would likely make a PVC arm and just have it hang over the side. The only other option that is popular is to use duct seal putty to seal it on the inside bottom of hull and have it read/shoot through hull. The pvc arm will lead to best results likely.
Great video, but I cant find 24lb motor. The closest thing I found was the sevylor 18lb model which is the same as watersnake 18lb.
+remelsheikh We just bought another from Amazon (link in description) not more than a week ago. Must have just missed it. They haven't been too bad at restocking them. There are otherwise a few others in U.S that sell them but sometimes they charge more than Amazon.
Would this run all day on a marine deep cycle battery? Or would a smaller one suffice?
nice set up
Thanks. Definitely fun. I don’t use this one much since getting a Bixpy with lighter weight battery and wireless remote. However, for the money this DIY motor works pretty dang well.
I am looking at the motor mount trolling motors and at first glance they appear to be perfect for this type of setup. They include a wired speed controller and there is no shaft to deal with. I am trying to figure out if the Minnkoda EM 55 will fit through the mirage drive well. If not there may be smaller alternatives as well.
+Chuck Wilson not even the Minn Kota C2 Endura 30lb thrust fit. Highly doubt the EM55 would. I thought I would damage the mirage drive opening due to force when trying to fit the Minn Kota 30. Watersnake ASP motors drop in easily without turning/twisting to make fit. Thus, I chose to use those.
Great job! Do you know the amp draw on HI and low setting? Do you think the slow speed is fast enough to troll? Thanks
I really liked your trolling motor for your kayak. In fact, I made me one also after watching your method. I ended up however cutting off an extra 1.5" from your model. I cut as per yours, but went back later and took off another 1.5". I haven't tried it out yet in the water, however, it all looks to work great. My only issue is that if the propeller is not lined up jus right, I cannot remove the trolling motor to revert back to the pedals unless I get under the kayak to turn the propeller to remove ort hits the opening. It did it on the longer version as well as my shorter version. Do you have a method to remove the motor while inside the boat? Either way, thanks for the instructions, they were most useful.
+Dale Stagg I was always able to reach through the drive and realign prop. My Hobie plug swivels on shaft for easy access to drive well.
Oh, ok. Sad to say, I secured my plug to the shaft using epoxy putty. Will have to see if I can have a way to position it and possibly grind down the epoxy if needed to allow moving mine. I glued mint to prevent water from getting into plug from shaft area but likely not needed. I also have another plug in case I ever need it. Thank you!
Putting a wood paint stick that you use to stir paint works very well just tape it on the kayak somewhere with airplane tape and bam its there when you need it. You can bump the motor on and off a few times till it lines up but I have found the stick just does the trick
I understand making certain mods to your kayak, but a motor? Can you do a video on putting a galley and a berth on my yak.
+Rick McClellan Hahaha. I do pack a small cooler and propane/butane stove. It works great for pulling up to one of the islands and cooking up my catches.
I know this is quite old now but if you happen to see this please help! The issue im having is a dumb one but I cant seem to unplug the wires from the motor head. They are crimped on so tight and I feel like im going to break the switches or the wires trying to yank on them in that tight space. How did you manage it??
Since the Control Unit only houses the switches do you think it would be feasible to eliminate it and run the wires to a couple of switches mounted on the kayak? My thinking is to minimize the amount of the motor protruding from the cassette. That is if i can get my hands on one of these motors, lol.
+Chuck Wilson try seawall.com. They might have some in stock since our link in video description occasionally sells out due to popularity of video.
Thanks for the info! Do you think the 18 has enough thrust for the Hobie compass tandem?
It has enough, but it is not really much of a weight savings and doesn’t cost much less than the 24. That is why I typically do the 24. The 24 is nice in choppy waters and high winds.
how long can you run that motor before battery dies & what size battery do you have. I like your boat is not cluttered like alot of the ones I see are.
+BBBYpsi For typical outing I get by easily with this battery linked below. It covers me for a typical afternoon/evening of fishing. I also have used a group 27 battery that gets me all weekend use (on/off 50% fishing 50% trolling). www.amazon.com/s/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=trolling%20motor%20battery&linkCode=ur2&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Atrolling%20motor%20battery&tag=ytk-20&url=search-alias%3Daps&linkId=FFRXMEOIV5LLF6PZ
+BBBYpsi This is the smart charger I use for my portable fish finder battery and larger trolling motor battery. It is awesome but a bit pricey. It however has saved/revived batteries I thought were toast. amzn.to/1oLRLbO
I know this a old video was wondering will this diy trolling motor work on the hobie compass
mike abang *yes, if you buy same motor I used it will fit the Hobie Compass. It should fit any Hobie mirage pedal kayak.*
www.amazon.com/dp/B007NVNPM4/?tag=ytk-20
*Just need the plastic plug that fits your drive best. Often plastic plug comes with kayak.*
+KayakDIY i have seen the hole drilled through the front portion of the plug and wanted your thoughts. I understand it is to get the unit a few inches closer to reach but i was wondering if it puts any strange tension or wear on the parts of the cassette or motor itself? This as opposed to the way you did it through the center (Grey part) of the newer style plugs? Thanks!
i went with the center as the black piece is really separate from the grey piece so i figure it would stabilize it a little better. i filled the center with expanding foam and will drill the hole through that as well,just more rigidity or at least thats what the plan is lol.
I prefer to go through the center because it has more material to not only handle stress, but to bolt a bracket to for preventing the motor shaft from turning in plug. I also just think it looks better symmetrical. I don't think it would harm either way.
hi KayakDIY.. Appreciate the post... I have a tandem PA17 and looking for something with a little more thrust...For fit comparison, What are the dimensions of the watersnake T24? 1) Diameter of motor housing 2) length from nose to rear facing motor hub 3) Diameter of prop. Really appreciate your help
+Bob Creed don't have one on hand to measure at moment. What I can say is if you go bigger the motor guide brand motors might have a 30-40lb thrust similar in size. I chose the T24 due to it being ultra-lightweight and still able to propel my PA-14 reasonably well. Minn Kota C2 Endura 30 didn't fit the mirage drive and we didn't like how heavy it was. If you go with a larger lb thrust motor I highly suggest incorporating a PWM from wireless trolling pro website. It will give you a lot more run time.
+Bob Creed what you can do is take your Hobie plug cassette with you shopping. That will give you a point of reference for sizing.
WARNING!!!! Before starting this build PLEASE CONSIDER THESE FACTORS!!!! Cutting 11.5 inches off will be a little short when incorporating small adjustments for drag of friction & making the most important correction when using only rudder steering. I Notice he fails to tell you that he has to use his feet to keep the unit straight. Use also a pipe cutter it's much more precise.cutting off only 10 or 10.5 inches works better for rudder control & friction of circular motion of water around the propeller spin at the bottom of hobie kayak. LASTLY THE BEST PRODUCT I FOUND TO KEEP THE UNIT FROM TURING ON ITS OWN, OR KEEPING IT STRAIGHT WITH THE MIRAGE INSERT IS CALLED A PEX CLAMP, MADE BY SHARK BITE. .25 cents a piece, 3/4 or 1 inch will work, use 2 #14 x 3/4 self taping hex head screw to attach. I put a thin pice of rubber strip in or lined the inside of clamp to better grip the motors shaft. Use a typical auto hose clamp around the PEX clamp to tighten, done!!! Cheap, light & very effective. FYI.
Thanks for the tips Tim! I am about to begin my build today so very helpful as i was debating the length to cut off. will go with the 10" and go from there, can always cut off more if i dont like it. The Pex clamp, i am trying to picture what your saying but think i am looking at the wrong clamp. they have the Pex clamps that basically look like pipe clamps or there are ones called PEX Suspension Tube Clamp? i see what your talking about tho and need a way to secure it in place from turning at all.
Brad Wyatt , yeah , the clamp is about 1 inch long, usually black with two little like feet on it with holes pre drilled on the feet or tabs, made of plastic, has a slit down it to open around the shaft, if still need more clarity I'll text anyone a pic or two!!! Going walleye fishing, Trenton channel Michigan tonight, mine ran for 3 hours steady last night with no glitches except removing the unit quickly becus prop alignment , still figuring a easy fix for that other than a paint stick!!! Good luck 😇
yeah went and grabbed some but grabbed the 3/4" instead of the 1" which i need. thinking i might put one below and one above the plug. Is the alignment problem that it doesnt stay centered? Good Luck!!!
can you email me some pics? please
jnorng@gmail.com
Mr. Williams could you plz send me a pic of the Pex clamps Sir. Being handicapped I thought my kayaking days we're limited not any more. Thank you Sir here is a pic of my install currently
facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1248965588547281&set=a.306230559487460.64773.100003015545273&type=3&theater
facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1248981375212369&set=pcb.1248981615212345&type=3&theater
a heavy duty tubing cutter might work for this also.
Morris Adams true...they work well. I did another build with one and it was really easy.
Thats a nice setup but there is no protection for that motor/prop under the kayak !
Trolling motor has prop guard fin.
See link to motor in video description. It is currently on sale!!!! Only $119. Don't know how long the sale will last. Even at the original price it is a deal. This motor rocks!
Did your PA not come with the marriage drive?
+Theodore Aniskoff Yes it came with one but I wanted a motor option for trolling baits. I also wanted to see if I could build one for a lot less than the Hobie torqueedo/evolve drives.
Do you know any saltwater trolling motor will fit into that Hobie as well?
It's now 2018. Is this the newest and most powerful mirage drive trolling motor still? I'm in the market for one. Anyone please answer. Thank you!
Can you make that for a Brooklyn kayak?
I’m sure. Just need different plug style. Same concept. Drill hole through plug and put trolling motor through.
Also what Battery did you use and did you get a waterproof baox for it? How long does the battery last?
For the test I simply used a jump starter battery which is NOT recommended. I will likely use one of the trolling motor 35ah batteries like I link to in video description. Although the jump starter battery did last long enough to get me all the way around the lake.
you could have also used a plumbing pipe cutter to cut the tube
+paul56e Yes. That is true. I used what I had at the time. Others can certainly use a pipe cutter if they have one. Thanks Paul56e