Hi Richard, thank you for watching and for your feedback. use the starter motor bolts (2) but you will need to get 2 nuts to fit the bolts, it's a little awkward fitting the nuts to the bolts so get free moving not locking ones so you can spin them on the threads until finishing with spanners to tighten properly.
@@crystalclearmechanics Hi again, thank u for your reply, managed to complete it today, was a right chore to undo crank bolt, only managed with 4 ft scaffold tube. The problem I now have is car starts but no central locking, I am told if battery is disconnected it will need a Immobilizer Reset with an SDD tool or other, not mentioned in your video, is this correct?
@@richardpomery7215 Hi Richard, I can only apologise I thought I had given that advise, I've checked the video and you are correct I did not. I will try and add that advise to the video if possible so thanks for making me aware. I know it's a bit late but my experience with this central locking issue is that a few of the 2013 / 2014 and registered 2.2 2015 cars can have this issue when the battery is disconnected or depleted, the 2011 and 2012 cars I have worked on have not had the issue. It is not a problem to get it reprogrammed and should not be expensive. The crank bolt is usually tight until it is almost out due to the threadlock used. Yes I use a 4ft scaffold tube sometimes as well. Glad you got the belt done.
The pulley has broke and made the belt come off its place. Has stalled within seconds by making a whining noise. Then roadside has tried starting with troubleshooting but later realised the issue of the pulley after opening the cambelt cover. Do you think the starting during troubleshoot must have caused more damage to engine? Does just pulley change fix the issue as the belt seems to be fine? Any more testing needs to be done after fixing the pulley? as the car is sat in garage for 4 weeks with no definite answer on whats going on with it. Help much appreaciated, TIA.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. You have 2 options depending on your skill grade, option 1 fit the old belt and new pulley ( don't try and start the engine ) then compression test all 4 cylinders, that will show if any valves are damaged / bent and which cylinders they are on, you will need to turn the camshaft gently by hand ( spanner ) to align timing pins to fit and time, the crankshaft may need to be turned as well, don't force either. That is how I would start even if I had to take the head off after. Option 2 take the cylinder head off and check for any damage / recondition whichever option you choose I would recommend replacing / renewing the belt / pulley's and water pump before finishing. Feel free to ask more questions or discuss if needed.
Great video! I have rhe delightful task of changing cambelts over on my Jag and my Seat Leon next week 🥹🫣 I have a stupid question.....when you've fitted the new belt etc, when turning the engine over by hand, with it being an automatic do you have to do anything with the gears such as put into neutral instead of park? Or does it not make a difference? Ive never really had to work on an automatic before hence the reason i ask the stupid question 🫣
Hi Dan, thank you for watching and for your feedback. A question is never stupid, It's how we learn new things. With an automatic I leave it in park but it does not make a difference which position you put it in.
I did my cambelt today on my jaguar 2.2. The tention was about 5mm off. (BEFORE THE GAP) I had no problems until i fitted the new cambelt. I turned the the tentioner anticlockwise until the pointer was in the middle off the notch and torck it to 25nm. Then i turned the crankshaft a couple off times to check the timing. This was ok butt the pointer was to far. I adjusted the tention again, turned the crankshaft and have te same problem. After 3 attemps the pointer stays in the middle of the gap. Then i turned the crankshaft several times because i was affraid I did something wrong. After the work was completed the engine runs fine. I wonder if it is necesary to check the tention after a while? And if so, will it undo the timing? Enyone to help me? Thanks a lot.
Hi Dirk, Glad you managed to do the belt. If you have torqued the tensioner bolt / nut correctly and the pointer was in the right place and turned the engine over a couple of times and all is still spot on then that is the job finished. You will not need to check it again, thanks again for watching.
In this video, at 7:47 what is that thing that looks like a dip stick? I know it's not a dip stick, but what is it for? Also, on my XF (X250 like this one) there's a cable underneath what i assume is the fuel filter (also seen if you pause at 7:47 ) and the cable is unplugged and i can't see anywhere to plug it in! Any ideas?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. It's a siphoning tube, when changing the oil you connect a rubber tube to it and suck the engine oil out of the sump, saves dropping the under tray ( video "Jaguar XF 2.2 diesel oil and filter change using siphon method". ). If you watch my video "Jaguar XF blocked fuel filter" It explains where the bottom electrical plug goes. The plug in the video has a place to push into but is not connected electrically so does not matter.
Good evening, I have a question for you. If a 2015 car with a 2.2 engine has only driven 10,000 miles, but the timing belt is already 9 years old, is it safe to continue driving? The car has been kept in a warm environment with temperatures ranging from +20 to +25 degrees Celsius year-round. What do you think?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I would change the timing belt, 9 years is in the Jaguar recommended time frame to change and why take the risk? Most of the timing belts I have changed have always visually looked in good condition but have been under tension for the number of years fitted or mileage covered. I don't have the equipment to test belts for longevity so have to rely on Jaguar recommendations.
@@crystalclearmechanics I agree that taking an unnecessary risk isn't worth it. However, I want to approach things wisely and with arguments, rather than blindly relying on recommendations, as they always take into account extreme operating conditions, which are absent in this case. It’s logical to assume that an item used by any person can look completely different after 10 years. And when giving any maintenance recommendation, the manufacturer will always cater to those who have used the item more harshly or in more severe conditions. This also makes sense to me.
@@sepe6a Hi, I would suggest you contact Jaguar and the belt manufacturers technical departments for advise on your specific concern. Who better to ask?
@@sepe6a You can trust the recommended timing on getting these replaced, or you can choose not to and usually replace your engine when it goes. Its up to you. What I would say is that the timing belt on XF Jags is one of the universally said items you should never scrimp on doing.
That fuck… Camshaft bolt it’s a nightmare make sure you get 22 size spanner that fit between radiator and bolt it’s a nightmare !!! I’ve got 3 different spanner’s won’t fit 🔥I’m fuc… stock
You need a special spanner to get enough space between that camshaft bolt and radiator.. also that bolt is a nightmare to unscrew take me 3h because spanner was too thick between radiator and bolt
Hi John, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The 22mm crankshaft bolt does have resistance until completely out due to the factory threadlock that is applied. I use a 22mm socket with a reversible ratchet torque wrench, once the bolt is out ( 5 minutes ) it is recommended to use a tap to clean out the threadlock inside the crankshaft, I use the old bolt and wire brush the threadlock off then reinsert it a few times cleaning the threadlock off each time until the bolt can be screwed in with my fingers. The recommended torque is conflicting, Jaguar say when fitting a belt, to use the old bolt with a torque of 70Nm yet when fitting the front pulley / damper they say use a new bolt ( £6 from Jaguar ) and torque to 70NM + 82 degrees. I use a new bolt and torque to 70Nm + 82 degrees. Sorry to hear you had so much trouble.@@johnmcgregor2334
Good video! I"m looking for a good video long time but never find a good one. Some idiots block the crankshaft with a screwdriver! Dit you replace the coolant compleet or just fill up? Radiator draining is not easy because the plug is difficult to reach. Can you give me the torck specs for the crankshaft bolt? Somebody told me 70nm + 80°. Hard to see on a gauge below the narrow space . My jaguar dealer ask me €1200,00 for the job! The car has 50000KM in 9 years. I dont know the intervals.Many thanks. Greetings from Belgium.
Hi Dirk, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I drained the coolant and refilled it. The Jaguar manual gives 2 torque settings, 1 says 70Nm + 82 degrees using a new bolt, the 2nd say's use the old bolt and torque it to 70Nm only. I have had discussions with Jaguar workshop mechanics about this conflicting advice and they said and I agree it should be 70Nm + 82 degrees with a new bolt. Clean the thread in the crankshaft by wire brushing the thread on the old bolt and screw it in and out whilst cleaning it until you can screw it in with your fingers then the new bolt will tighten easily. It is a very easy job, the crankshaft locking tools I use were from Sealey. I used to buy a lot of cars in Belgium back in the 1970s - 1980s, great country.
@@crystalclearmechanics thank a lot for your info. Now i can order te tools and parts. It safes me a lot of money. Your video is the onlyone that gives a good and clear information. I was a little nerveus for undo the startermoter. Greetings, Dirk Vanbesien
Hi Simon, Thank you for watching and for your feedback. The pin to time the crankshaft fits in the driveplate / flexplate ( between 13.34 minutes and 14.34 minutes.
@@dansmith2097 Hi Dan the hole in the driveplate is probably slightly out of line with the cams, remove the cam pins and then move the crank slightly both ways keeping pressure on the pin until it slots into the hole in the driveplate.then put the cam pins in place moving them slightly with a spanner on the cam sprocket bolt. Let me know how you get on.
Is this the 2.2 diesel that is fitted into the Transit ?? I think they used it in the early Freelanders as well ??
Thank you
HI, do I need additional bolts to attach flywheel locking tool to bell housing? many thanks.
Hi Richard, thank you for watching and for your feedback. use the starter motor bolts (2) but you will need to get 2 nuts to fit the bolts, it's a little awkward fitting the nuts to the bolts so get free moving not locking ones so you can spin them on the threads until finishing with spanners to tighten properly.
@@crystalclearmechanics ok thanks, didn`t want to strip everything out then find I needed the car to go & get any additional parts, thank u again.
@@crystalclearmechanics Hi again, thank u for your reply, managed to complete it today, was a right chore to undo crank bolt, only managed with 4 ft scaffold tube. The problem I now have is car starts but no central locking, I am told if battery is disconnected it will need a Immobilizer Reset with an SDD tool or other, not mentioned in your video, is this correct?
@@richardpomery7215 Hi Richard, I can only apologise I thought I had given that advise, I've checked the video and you are correct I did not. I will try and add that advise to the video if possible so thanks for making me aware. I know it's a bit late but my experience with this central locking issue is that a few of the 2013 / 2014 and registered 2.2 2015 cars can have this issue when the battery is disconnected or depleted, the 2011 and 2012 cars I have worked on have not had the issue. It is not a problem to get it reprogrammed and should not be expensive. The crank bolt is usually tight until it is almost out due to the threadlock used. Yes I use a 4ft scaffold tube sometimes as well. Glad you got the belt done.
The pulley has broke and made the belt come off its place. Has stalled within seconds by making a whining noise. Then roadside has tried starting with troubleshooting but later realised the issue of the pulley after opening the cambelt cover. Do you think the starting during troubleshoot must have caused more damage to engine? Does just pulley change fix the issue as the belt seems to be fine? Any more testing needs to be done after fixing the pulley? as the car is sat in garage for 4 weeks with no definite answer on whats going on with it. Help much appreaciated, TIA.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. You have 2 options depending on your skill grade, option 1 fit the old belt and new pulley ( don't try and start the engine ) then compression test all 4 cylinders, that will show if any valves are damaged / bent and which cylinders they are on, you will need to turn the camshaft gently by hand ( spanner ) to align timing pins to fit and time, the crankshaft may need to be turned as well, don't force either. That is how I would start even if I had to take the head off after. Option 2 take the cylinder head off and check for any damage / recondition whichever option you choose I would recommend replacing / renewing the belt / pulley's and water pump before finishing. Feel free to ask more questions or discuss if needed.
Many thanks for the video
Hi Alex, thank you for watching and for your feedback.
These videos are out standing real information keep up the good work help me out massively on my jaguar 2015 2.2 diesel.
Hi Wayne, Thank you for watching and your great feedback. Glad the video's help.
Sorry mate after watching this I forgo the hundreds of dollars and got a expert to replace it :)
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.
😂😂😂😂😂
Great video! I have rhe delightful task of changing cambelts over on my Jag and my Seat Leon next week 🥹🫣
I have a stupid question.....when you've fitted the new belt etc, when turning the engine over by hand, with it being an automatic do you have to do anything with the gears such as put into neutral instead of park? Or does it not make a difference? Ive never really had to work on an automatic before hence the reason i ask the stupid question 🫣
Hi Dan, thank you for watching and for your feedback. A question is never stupid, It's how we learn new things.
With an automatic I leave it in park but it does not make a difference which position you put it in.
I did my cambelt today on my jaguar 2.2. The tention was about 5mm off. (BEFORE THE GAP) I had no problems until i fitted the new cambelt. I turned the the tentioner anticlockwise until the pointer was in the middle off the notch and torck it to 25nm. Then i turned the crankshaft a couple off times to check the timing. This was ok butt the pointer was to far. I adjusted the tention again, turned the crankshaft and have te same problem. After 3 attemps the pointer stays in the middle of the gap. Then i turned the crankshaft several times because i was affraid I did something wrong. After the work was completed the engine runs fine. I wonder if it is necesary to check the tention after a while? And if so, will it undo the timing? Enyone to help me? Thanks a lot.
Hi Dirk, Glad you managed to do the belt. If you have torqued the tensioner bolt / nut correctly and the pointer was in the right place and turned the engine over a couple of times and all is still spot on then that is the job finished. You will not need to check it again, thanks again for watching.
I wish that you had put this video last week, i did mine last saturday and it was an experience i dont want to do again. 😂
Hi Alan, thank you for watching and for your feedback.
In this video, at 7:47 what is that thing that looks like a dip stick? I know it's not a dip stick, but what is it for?
Also, on my XF (X250 like this one) there's a cable underneath what i assume is the fuel filter (also seen if you pause at 7:47 ) and the cable is unplugged and i can't see anywhere to plug it in! Any ideas?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. It's a siphoning tube, when changing the oil you connect a rubber tube to it and suck the engine oil out of the sump, saves dropping the under tray ( video "Jaguar XF 2.2 diesel oil and filter change using siphon method". ). If you watch my video "Jaguar XF blocked fuel filter" It explains where the bottom electrical plug goes. The plug in the video has a place to push into but is not connected electrically so does not matter.
@@crystalclearmechanics Thank you for your reply and clearing that up! Much appreciated!
Good evening, I have a question for you. If a 2015 car with a 2.2 engine has only driven 10,000 miles, but the timing belt is already 9 years old, is it safe to continue driving? The car has been kept in a warm environment with temperatures ranging from +20 to +25 degrees Celsius year-round. What do you think?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I would change the timing belt, 9 years is in the Jaguar recommended time frame to change and why take the risk? Most of the timing belts I have changed have always visually looked in good condition but have been under tension for the number of years fitted or mileage covered. I don't have the equipment to test belts for longevity so have to rely on Jaguar recommendations.
@@crystalclearmechanics I agree that taking an unnecessary risk isn't worth it. However, I want to approach things wisely and with arguments, rather than blindly relying on recommendations, as they always take into account extreme operating conditions, which are absent in this case. It’s logical to assume that an item used by any person can look completely different after 10 years. And when giving any maintenance recommendation, the manufacturer will always cater to those who have used the item more harshly or in more severe conditions. This also makes sense to me.
@@sepe6a Hi, I would suggest you contact Jaguar and the belt manufacturers technical departments for advise on your specific concern. Who better to ask?
@@sepe6a You can trust the recommended timing on getting these replaced, or you can choose not to and usually replace your engine when it goes. Its up to you. What I would say is that the timing belt on XF Jags is one of the universally said items you should never scrimp on doing.
That fuck… Camshaft bolt it’s a nightmare make sure you get 22 size spanner that fit between radiator and bolt it’s a nightmare !!! I’ve got 3 different spanner’s won’t fit 🔥I’m fuc… stock
You need a special spanner to get enough space between that camshaft bolt and radiator.. also that bolt is a nightmare to unscrew take me 3h because spanner was too thick between radiator and bolt
Hi John, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The 22mm crankshaft bolt does have resistance until completely out due to the factory threadlock that is applied. I use a 22mm socket with a reversible ratchet torque wrench, once the bolt is out ( 5 minutes ) it is recommended to use a tap to clean out the threadlock inside the crankshaft, I use the old bolt and wire brush the threadlock off then reinsert it a few times cleaning the threadlock off each time until the bolt can be screwed in with my fingers. The recommended torque is conflicting, Jaguar say when fitting a belt, to use the old bolt with a torque of 70Nm yet when fitting the front pulley / damper they say use a new bolt ( £6 from Jaguar ) and torque to 70NM + 82 degrees. I use a new bolt and torque to 70Nm + 82 degrees. Sorry to hear you had so much trouble.@@johnmcgregor2334
Good video! I"m looking for a good video long time but never find a good one. Some idiots block the crankshaft with a screwdriver! Dit you replace the coolant compleet or just fill up?
Radiator draining is not easy because the plug is difficult to reach. Can you give me the torck specs for the crankshaft bolt? Somebody told me 70nm + 80°.
Hard to see on a gauge below the narrow space . My jaguar dealer ask me €1200,00 for the job! The car has 50000KM in 9 years. I dont know the intervals.Many thanks.
Greetings from Belgium.
Hi Dirk, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I drained the coolant and refilled it. The Jaguar manual gives 2 torque settings, 1 says 70Nm + 82 degrees using a new bolt, the 2nd say's use the old bolt and torque it to 70Nm only. I have had discussions with Jaguar workshop mechanics about this conflicting advice and they said and I agree it should be 70Nm + 82 degrees with a new bolt. Clean the thread in the crankshaft by wire brushing the thread on the old bolt and screw it in and out whilst cleaning it until you can screw it in with your fingers then the new bolt will tighten easily. It is a very easy job, the crankshaft locking tools I use were from Sealey. I used to buy a lot of cars in Belgium back in the 1970s - 1980s, great country.
@@crystalclearmechanics thank a lot for your info. Now i can order te tools and parts. It safes me a lot of money. Your video is the onlyone that gives a good and clear information. I was a little nerveus for undo the startermoter. Greetings, Dirk Vanbesien
You don't show where the pin goes for bottom crank
Hi Simon, Thank you for watching and for your feedback. The pin to time the crankshaft fits in the driveplate / flexplate ( between 13.34 minutes and 14.34 minutes.
@@crystalclearmechanics does the pin slot into a hole in the drive plate? I can't seem to find a hole which it fits/locks into 🥺
@@dansmith2097 Hi Dan the hole in the driveplate is probably slightly out of line with the cams, remove the cam pins and then move the crank slightly both ways keeping pressure on the pin until it slots into the hole in the driveplate.then put the cam pins in place moving them slightly with a spanner on the cam sprocket bolt.
Let me know how you get on.
Thanks for the video 😊
Hi, thanks for watching and for your feedback.
Is this 2.2 Diesel engine ?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Yes it is the 2.2 diesel engine.
Is this engine non interference if it snaps?
No