I have Finish 1 clear and it is thick right outta the can. It's an excellent clear and reducing it allows it to flow out nicely. Thanks for the great video!
@mariopaintclass6091 I spoke with a rep at Sherwin Williams and he said fc720 was thin enough. He said reduce at your own risk. What reducer do you recommend for Finish1 fc720 with a medium hardner?
I painted the rims all black on my 2015 SHO then shot them with the Finish 1. I tried your recommendation and the results were phenomenal. Appreciate the expert advice you shared. I used my mini HVLP with 1.0 tip, wide open at about 21 psi. You have to go slow and get close but I crushed it. Cheers!
@@danielkondra107 Sherwin Williams is set up for 5-10 minutes flash but I've stepped up again using the cc200 and cc950 there more expensive clears and there 3-1 instead of 4-1
@@rongamble9884 so what tips do you have for spraying FC740? I’ve used 720 and I’ve changed my application technique, and flash times but it still dies back no matter what I do, looks perfect in the booth, 3 hours later it’s dies back a little and shrinks a little. For being $100 clear I shouldn’t be complaining but I want to get a clear to where I know it lays and dries good. I was thinking to try the 740 and see if that is better
Hey Mario first of all thank for your painting education, we watch you some time in my automotive collision repair school, my question is why do you paint without eye protection or cover your face. Isocyanates in clear coat can still get through your eye membrane , you are a good teacher please ware your eye safety
First of all thank you for your support 🙌 I’m thrilled to know that my videos can be of use to you and your students. You are so right I do indeed need to protect myself better I will moving forward.
i can’t find the video where you didn’t like this finish 1 and recommended something else. do you remember what you recommended because i’m starting to get some problems with the finish 1
@michaellareem4014 I boil the kettle and pour it into a bucket, then add the tin of clear into the bucket. I use the infrared thermometer to read the temp of clear before use.
@michaellareem4014 I would say technically, yeah, but for it to flow out of the nozzle properly, the viscosity needs to be thin. When I was painting in around 15°C, I had the clear in the mixing cup, mixed with hardener at 25°C with bit of thinners and put into gun. Give a last tac rag before clearing.
No matter what I do,my clear is terrible..i'm thinking it's because i use MS clear,not HS..Can you make a video about the different types of clear,and how to use them please?
It's not the brand my friend. It's very important not to use a thick needle. My one is 1 mm. Reducing it's a must to have a perfect finish and much faster to buff if there are any small dirt on paint.
MS clears have more solvents, so it could be too much atomization allowing the solvents to be lost in the air before getting onto the panel to allow flow out. It's tricky, but to get MS clear to flow out, the mils must be thicker before it starts to set. This is why some clears stay softer longer as designed like FC720 while others are meant to cure faster, like Nason 498-00, so they must be applied wetter. However, there's a thin line between wetted out and running. Get a spare panel and find the sweet spot for the clear you use. Once you find it, stick with that clear!
Hello Mr Teacher Sir😁some very useful info in the video Mario and the finish you got on the car is a real show car look👌first thing I do when using a new clear is to check the TDS to see what it recommends some clears don't need any thinners but if it calls for 10% I'll always try 5% for the first time then adjust from that to get the finish I'm looking for👌👍John UK
very good, love your knowledge. may I ask a question . on my motorcycle I shot 3 coats clear with 1 coat violet pearl over my carbon fiber pieces, looks fabulous. I did this 14 years ago. well I just found 2 radiator cover for my bike that are carbon. Do they make a clear with violet pearl added in a rattle can? I just has 2 very small pieces I want to make look the same. Thanks
Mario, i have a question for you. When you see all these tik tok and ig painters getting these dead flat impeccable finishes, do you believe that a good portion of them are reducing their clear to achieve those showcar finishes straight off the spraygun? Thats what i think
Hey, great video, your clear coat looks awesome! I have a 2018 Dodge Charger Daytona 392, in the Yellow Jacket color. I’d like to fix a few nicks in it. I ordered an OEM paint touch up kit from Mopar, but do you have any videos on your process to fill in and fix small nicks in paint? Thank You for your videos.
Im guessing Brian is nearby seeing your sporting his paint channel logo! I sure wish one of y’all were nearby to tell me what heck keeps happening to my paint!
@@mariopaintclass6091 well here goes I’ve painted my truck 3 times now and almost the same issue it’s like chemical pop, boils. This last time I thought I had it figured out but not so lucky! The paint is single stage urethane from TCP global. It happens almost immediately I sprayed the bed and was working down the door and fender looked back and had a bunch of circles like fish eyes. The temperature was 70 and I’m using slow reducer. I’ve installed a cheap water and oil separator and a motor guard filter . My air lines come in the garage and go up n down the walls 4 times 6’ each time with drip legs and drain valves then to the regulator and filters. I’m using a Devilbiss pro lite 1.4 fluid tip and T20 air cap. One thing I’ve come up with is my cleaning method I spray and wipe down with 98% isopropyl alcohol then follow with Napa widow cleaner. I think that’s backwards should be window cleaner then the alcohol maybe. I just don’t get it I’ve painted several vehicles and never had so many issues! Another question I have is if I sand it smooth how smooth to spray with a clear coat would 800 grit scratches show in the clear. Thank you for any insight you can share I realize these thing are hard to diagnose not being able to see it.
@@timhudson8958 from what I’ve gathered here you have a stable set up at home and you have painted plenty time before n never had this issue. That rules out an airline problem, I know for that it has nothing to do with your paint gun, and you were using slow reducer in 70 temp which is ok. Now if I’m picturing this problem correctly I can say for sure it’s your cleaning method. I’ve experienced this before we use water based cleaner and solvent based cleaner I use to go solvent first and then water and as soon as I start spraying those rings would pop up. It looks as tho inside the rings the paint separates inside, correct me if I’m wrong. So what I did was I started cleaning with the water first and I use micro fiber towels one wipe one dry. N my problem went away. It’s like water is so strong that if it’s not dried properly before paint it reacts. Now questions for you. Have you used this particular brand of single stage before and have you always used your cleaning products the same in the past?
@@mariopaintclass6091 yes the paint I have used twice before but many years ago I don’t feel the product is the issue but with all the new VOC rules it may be more reactive and less forgiving. I’ve ordered a new water and oil separator from Eastwood a fairly nice one this time and will continue to use my motor guard filter as well. I will also change my cleaning practice . I’m going to sand it back down through the grits starting at 400 and ending at 800 will 800 grit scratches show in a clear coat?
Hey I thought when you paint the vehicle first coat not to use reducer you want to clear the stick the first time and then the second time you put the reducer
I use FC720 and while it lays flat nicely, I notice it causes air bubbles if you get a run. So when you try to correct the run, you get pinholes. Do you think reducing it would help or possibly make it worse?
I use to get those white air bubbles with this clear. It’s solvent pop. Try not to lay it down too heavy and give it sufficient flash time in between coats. I use to pile it on to get the finish I wanted but when I started reducing it it helped with the flow which means I didn’t have to pile it on anymore. Also make sure you have the right hardener for the temp.
Take off the fluid cap completely catch it back on hold down the trigger and turn in fluid cap until you feel a push on the finger holding the trigger. Then turn it to 1/2. Wide open fan. 1.2XL TIP
i really am wanting to paint my car which is super white 040 in direct gloss have you guys heard of a brand called schuberts ?it seems cheap to good to be true and is a 2:1 ratio i have had bad experience with some stuff in the past which was sold to me at a premium price 4:1 ratio though
appreciate the reply heaps you and brian are such great teachers it means alot i cant seem to find it at all online probably is horrible stuff which wont be friendly and more then likely dry super quick or something crazy and dieback @@mariopaintclass6091
hi, quick question, im using a mipa 2:1 with 10% thinner, using 1.3 tip dv1 with 25-26psi... but it still resulting orange peel..!! what can i do? is my pressure wrong? jason@sg
@@salesyccmotors5866 orange peel can start from the foundation. What grit did you finish your prep with? Was your base color rough before you start clearing?. Is there an air flow in the area you’re painting?. these things can result in peels. Your gun, your tip size, and PSI is fine.
@@mariopaintclass6091 400, 800, 1500 grit, base jet black 1:0.8 (extra slow thinner)sprayed at 1.3 tip, 15psi lvmp, full fluid wide open. spray in a spray booth.
@@salesyccmotors5866 you seem to be doing everything right. However if you’re spraying the clear too dry it will always result in peels . You always try a 1.2 tip.
Totally blown away at your lack of ability to determine 5% of 14.1oz. 10% is super easy, just move the decimal one place. 1.41ox so 5% would be exactly 1/2 of that or 0.705oz
Thanks for your video you're not a painter by any means. You're an artist!
@@donvanpraag3711 Thank you! I appreciate your support 💪
I have Finish 1 clear and it is thick right outta the can.
It's an excellent clear and reducing it allows it to flow out nicely.
Thanks for the great video!
It sure is thick. Thanks 👍
What reducer do you used with your finish 1?
@mariopaintclass6091 I spoke with a rep at Sherwin Williams and he said fc720 was thin enough. He said reduce at your own risk. What reducer do you recommend for Finish1 fc720 with a medium hardner?
I first heard of reducing from your buddy Brian. Reducing definitely made a huge improvement in my paint jobs.
Brian from Paint Society?
yep, that's the one
I painted the rims all black on my 2015 SHO then shot them with the Finish 1. I tried your recommendation and the results were phenomenal. Appreciate the expert advice you shared. I used my mini HVLP with 1.0 tip, wide open at about 21 psi. You have to go slow and get close but I crushed it. Cheers!
I’m happy to hear that man😇 glad it worked out 💪
That came out WET!! 🔥🔥
🙌🙌🙌
The 2 to 1 that I use is high solids and very thick. Every 4:1 I have used is thin as water.
Mostly 4:1 is thinner than 2:1
Very nice Job Mario and a great Tip 👍🏽
Thanks for watching 🙌
Another Great video Mario! I really like how you go into great detail as to why on whatever you are explaining. really appreciate you brother!
I do my best
That's a good clear I've recently moved over and started using the FC740
What flash times do you do between coats of clear?
@@danielkondra107 Sherwin Williams is set up for 5-10 minutes flash but I've stepped up again using the cc200 and cc950 there more expensive clears and there 3-1 instead of 4-1
@@rongamble9884 so what tips do you have for spraying FC740? I’ve used 720 and I’ve changed my application technique, and flash times but it still dies back no matter what I do, looks perfect in the booth, 3 hours later it’s dies back a little and shrinks a little.
For being $100 clear I shouldn’t be complaining but I want to get a clear to where I know it lays and dries good.
I was thinking to try the 740 and see if that is better
Hey Mario first of all thank for your painting education, we watch you some time in my automotive collision repair school, my question is why do you paint without eye protection or cover your face. Isocyanates in clear coat can still get through your eye membrane , you are a good teacher please ware your eye safety
First of all thank you for your support 🙌 I’m thrilled to know that my videos can be of use to you and your students. You are so right I do indeed need to protect myself better I will moving forward.
Great job
@@johannbjorgvinssin9304 Thanks!
Can you use paint tjinner instead of reducer
i can’t find the video where you didn’t like this finish 1 and recommended something else. do you remember what you recommended because i’m starting to get some problems with the finish 1
Grate job bro
Thanks
For you DIY guys make sure your clear is around 20°C before even thinking of spraying👍
colder paint = thicker viscosity.
Lately I have tried it twice now
I heat my clear up in hot water for a good 10 Min before hand unsure If it helps or not
@michaellareem4014 I boil the kettle and pour it into a bucket, then add the tin of clear into the bucket. I use the infrared thermometer to read the temp of clear before use.
@Mr.HondaMan same but wouldn't it cool down when sprayed ?
Also do you let your clear and hardner catalyse once mixed? Or no need to ?
@michaellareem4014 I would say technically, yeah, but for it to flow out of the nozzle properly, the viscosity needs to be thin.
When I was painting in around 15°C, I had the clear in the mixing cup, mixed with hardener at 25°C with bit of thinners and put into gun. Give a last tac rag before clearing.
Bad advice,,jus up ur pressure and decrease fluid on gun
Good work 😊😊😅😅
No matter what I do,my clear is terrible..i'm thinking it's because i use MS clear,not HS..Can you make a video about the different types of clear,and how to use them please?
It's not the brand my friend.
It's very important not to use a thick needle.
My one is 1 mm.
Reducing it's a must to have a perfect finish and much faster to buff if there are any small dirt on paint.
What temp is your clear sitting around before spraying?
MS clears have more solvents, so it could be too much atomization allowing the solvents to be lost in the air before getting onto the panel to allow flow out. It's tricky, but to get MS clear to flow out, the mils must be thicker before it starts to set. This is why some clears stay softer longer as designed like FC720 while others are meant to cure faster, like Nason 498-00, so they must be applied wetter. However, there's a thin line between wetted out and running. Get a spare panel and find the sweet spot for the clear you use. Once you find it, stick with that clear!
@@HondasAreNotForChristmas well it's about room temperature really..not cold,not hot,it sits in the garage
@@wtfftw24i'm using a 1.3 gun for everything,except filler ofc
Who is your camera man? Wow !
Awesome angles right? the camera man was even advertising a paint suit
@@mariopaintclass6091 lmao. Best part
@@mariopaintclass6091 I figured Brian was behind that camera angle. Haha.
Hello Mr Teacher Sir😁some very useful info in the video Mario and the finish you got on the car is a real show car look👌first thing I do when using a new clear is to check the TDS to see what it recommends some clears don't need any thinners but if it calls for 10% I'll always try 5% for the first time then adjust from that to get the finish I'm looking for👌👍John UK
Thanks John👊🏽 yes some clear is already thin
Good job ❤
Thank you 🙌
very good, love your knowledge. may I ask a question . on my motorcycle I shot 3 coats clear with 1 coat violet pearl over my carbon fiber pieces, looks fabulous. I did this 14 years ago. well I just found 2 radiator cover for my bike that are carbon. Do they make a clear with violet pearl added in a rattle can? I just has 2 very small pieces I want to make look the same. Thanks
@@sekaf4125 thanks ! We will both have to research this I’ve never heard of such a clear.
Multiply by .05, .5 would be 50%.
Mario, i have a question for you. When you see all these tik tok and ig painters getting these dead flat impeccable finishes, do you believe that a good portion of them are reducing their clear to achieve those showcar finishes straight off the spraygun? Thats what i think
Yes they reduce the clear. Also some use expensive clear coat.
Hey, great video, your clear coat looks awesome! I have a 2018 Dodge Charger Daytona 392, in the Yellow Jacket color. I’d like to fix a few nicks in it. I ordered an OEM paint touch up kit from Mopar, but do you have any videos on your process to fill in and fix small nicks in paint? Thank You for your videos.
Thanks🙌 I don’t have any videos on that sorry. I’ll try to make one in the future.
@@mariopaintclass6091 That sounds good, appreciate the reply.
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Happy to help
Im gonna try this. I use FC720 with a ws400. Thanks docta
Ya man np
Mario and reducing the clear, is there no danger that it will lose its brightness with the days?
That’s why you shouldn’t reduce it too much. Some people do 15 20% that’s too much.
I'm using the same clear finish one how much reducer would I add
@@m.thegreat2136 5 to 10 percent
Im guessing Brian is nearby seeing your sporting his paint channel logo! I sure wish one of y’all were nearby to tell me what heck keeps happening to my paint!
Ask any question you might have
@@mariopaintclass6091 well here goes I’ve painted my truck 3 times now and almost the same issue it’s like chemical pop, boils. This last time I thought I had it figured out but not so lucky! The paint is single stage urethane from TCP global. It happens almost immediately I sprayed the bed and was working down the door and fender looked back and had a bunch of circles like fish eyes. The temperature was 70 and I’m using slow reducer. I’ve installed a cheap water and oil separator and a motor guard filter . My air lines come in the garage and go up n down the walls 4 times 6’ each time with drip legs and drain valves then to the regulator and filters. I’m using a Devilbiss pro lite 1.4 fluid tip and T20 air cap. One thing I’ve come up with is my cleaning method I spray and wipe down with 98% isopropyl alcohol then follow with Napa widow cleaner. I think that’s backwards should be window cleaner then the alcohol maybe. I just don’t get it I’ve painted several vehicles and never had so many issues! Another question I have is if I sand it smooth how smooth to spray with a clear coat would 800 grit scratches show in the clear. Thank you for any insight you can share I realize these thing are hard to diagnose not being able to see it.
@@timhudson8958 from what I’ve gathered here you have a stable set up at home and you have painted plenty time before n never had this issue. That rules out an airline problem, I know for that it has nothing to do with your paint gun, and you were using slow reducer in 70 temp which is ok. Now if I’m picturing this problem correctly I can say for sure it’s your cleaning method. I’ve experienced this before we use water based cleaner and solvent based cleaner I use to go solvent first and then water and as soon as I start spraying those rings would pop up. It looks as tho inside the rings the paint separates inside, correct me if I’m wrong. So what I did was I started cleaning with the water first and I use micro fiber towels one wipe one dry. N my problem went away. It’s like water is so strong that if it’s not dried properly before paint it reacts. Now questions for you. Have you used this particular brand of single stage before and have you always used your cleaning products the same in the past?
@@mariopaintclass6091 yes the paint I have used twice before but many years ago I don’t feel the product is the issue but with all the new VOC rules it may be more reactive and less forgiving. I’ve ordered a new water and oil separator from Eastwood a fairly nice one this time and will continue to use my motor guard filter as well. I will also change my cleaning practice . I’m going to sand it back down through the grits starting at 400 and ending at 800 will 800 grit scratches show in a clear coat?
@@timhudson8958 okay 800 grit won’t shop in clear coat
Where do I get the reducer? What's it called? I can't find anything specifically for clear coat. I guess I'm missing something.
@@shanewatkins5636 it’s paint reducer
Hello boss 💪what do you think about applying clearcoat without thinner?
Hey man, I’ve never used thinner in my clear coat.
Job well done! I'm a new subscriber. what state are you in?
Welcome! I’m in Florida
@@mariopaintclass6091
I will get in touch when I’m out there. You got skills 👍🏽
Hey I thought when you paint the vehicle first coat not to use reducer you want to clear the stick the first time and then the second time you put the reducer
@@toru_rose6564Hey, there’s nothing wrong with experimenting to see what works best. I’m still learning just like you. Sorry if I mislead you.
@@mariopaintclass6091
Okay no worries
And what did it look like 2-3 days later when the clear is done flashing off...
Nothing changed.
What do you reduce the paint with?
Reducer
I use FC720 and while it lays flat nicely, I notice it causes air bubbles if you get a run. So when you try to correct the run, you get pinholes. Do you think reducing it would help or possibly make it worse?
I use to get those white air bubbles with this clear. It’s solvent pop. Try not to lay it down too heavy and give it sufficient flash time in between coats. I use to pile it on to get the finish I wanted but when I started reducing it it helped with the flow which means I didn’t have to pile it on anymore. Also make sure you have the right hardener for the temp.
@@mariopaintclass6091 I would get them in corners and inside bends. I’ll try reducing next time, thanks!!
How much time before buffing out the dirt nips?
16 to 24 hours this also depends on the type clear you use and temperature.
I know every setup is different, But how did you setup for Sagola for this clear? Is that the 1.3xl tip?
Take off the fluid cap completely catch it back on hold down the trigger and turn in fluid cap until you feel a push on the finger holding the trigger. Then turn it to 1/2. Wide open fan. 1.2XL TIP
@@mariopaintclass6091 Thank you, So 1/2 turn in from full. Sweet, ill play with it from there... Thank you and love the VIDS sir!
@@DIYSolarEnergy thanks for watching
i really am wanting to paint my car which is super white 040 in direct gloss
have you guys heard of a brand called schuberts ?it seems cheap to good to be true and is a 2:1 ratio
i have had bad experience with some stuff in the past which was sold to me at a premium price 4:1 ratio though
Never heard of it. I’ll have to try it out tho
appreciate the reply heaps you and brian are such great teachers it means alot
i cant seem to find it at all online probably is horrible stuff which wont be friendly and more then likely dry super quick or something crazy and dieback
@@mariopaintclass6091
Do i need to reduce it more if i'm using a smaller tip, say 1.0?
1.0 should already have it coming out fine
GREAT PAINTER!
Thank you 🙏
Mario can you do a video of you guys taping the car
Sure!
What do you add to reduce it?
Paint reducer
A bit off topic ...do you add hardener in ur basecolor ? thnx
No sir unless I have a wrinkle problem
Thank ya@@mariopaintclass6091
normally you never put any hardener in base..
how much hardener in the basecoat do you mix in? im having a wrinkle problem @@mariopaintclass6091
Actually, the hardener in the clear is what kicks the base coat to harden...
What reducer do you use
Sikkens
@@mariopaintclass6091 thank you
hi, quick question, im using a mipa 2:1 with 10% thinner, using 1.3 tip dv1 with 25-26psi... but it still resulting orange peel..!! what can i do? is my pressure wrong? jason@sg
@@salesyccmotors5866 orange peel can start from the foundation. What grit did you finish your prep with? Was your base color rough before you start clearing?. Is there an air flow in the area you’re painting?. these things can result in peels. Your gun, your tip size, and PSI is fine.
@@mariopaintclass6091 400, 800, 1500 grit, base jet black 1:0.8 (extra slow thinner)sprayed at 1.3 tip, 15psi lvmp, full fluid wide open. spray in a spray booth.
@@salesyccmotors5866 you seem to be doing everything right. However if you’re spraying the clear too dry it will always result in peels . You always try a 1.2 tip.
@@mariopaintclass6091 ok.. i will try! any recommendation?
Reduce with acetone?
Don’t ever do that
@@mariopaintclass6091 you used reducer?
Totally blown away at your lack of ability to determine 5% of 14.1oz. 10% is super easy, just move the decimal one place. 1.41ox so 5% would be exactly 1/2 of that or 0.705oz
About time USA come out of the dark ages and moved to the metric system - it is just so much easier to work with
@@krh007Yes we do use units of oz and mL in the States.
Wait... the 4:1 clears I've used are thinner. 🤔
Maybe a different brand
I'm using that finish one product how much reducer would I add?
0.05.
Wet on wet coat
Is that math right?
Think he meant multiply by .05 not .5
@@Abu_Idris Thanks that will be useful as I use small amounts of paint and clear.
Nope