I've been a yacht/boat painter for a little over 2 years now (mostly self taught), even though our professions are a little different, I've found that your videos and advice have great carry over and has made me that much better of a painter. Your videos are greatly appreciated.
For me it depends what I am doing. I use a Devilbiss DV1-C clear gun i use for complete paint jobs. If a show car I use high solids like Roberlo 510 Kronox, or Chameleon UHS 177, for budget high solids Acme Finish 1 FC740 super brilliant clear, which i use the 1.2mm nozzle in the DV1-C because it breaks up the solids better. If I am painting panels and anything I must blend I use either Akzonobile U-Tech 4.0 or Acme Finish 1 FC720 Ultimate overall clear. For the medium solids production clears i use the 1.3mm nozzle. I have a 1.4mm that it came with too but i never used it. I got a new gun for blending panels to replicate factory orange peel. Its a new gun called a Porphis prd-715 1.3mm that is an awsome looking gun that is anodized a bright metallic blue with black and orange controls, the flow knob is click adjust. Its a sata phaser clone basically. The DV1-C just lays to good of a finish for blending for me.
Good video , My biggest issue is getting consistent air pressure with such a small compressor I’m constantly fighting pressure dropping , I usually try to use between 20-26 psi but but if I go 18 and pressure drops to 10 during spraying it’s sacrificing my finish , thinking maybe to add more air storage to try to remedy that prob
@@kandyman5315 yeah I’ve been looking at that one for a while now it’s made by a company called Baldor in China, only issue is it runs on 220v not 100v which I’m limited to
I’ve been spraying the cc200 for a couple months now and I love it, we have the bc8 set up at our shop, solvent though not water. But the clear is something else, I spray it at 20-25 with my iwata
Nice job!! Are you talking about 18 PSI on DV1 digital gauge or the gauge before the gun? I'm asking because 20 psi on DV1 digital gauge in reality 28-30 PSI on the gauge before the gun. I have a gauge before the gun, so whatever DV1 showing is not actual pressure or that pressure somewhere inside of the gun. But you are exactly right most guns recommended settings are 29-30 PSI that not great with MS clears especially in Florida where the temps now about 94-95 Fahrenheit in the booth. I'm using Prime 45 clear ( MS) and it lays down and shines better with 25-26psi on the gauge before the gun.
@@kandyman5315 That's what i thought since i have same gun as well, so in reality it's about 25-26 psi. Other viewers who does not have this gun will be confused if they will set their guns of other brands to 18 PSI.
Kandyman i tried CC200 and totally agree with you, great clear, great shine, hard to buff if you wait too long but buffs great for me with Sonax Cutmax and microfiber pads, i found that is different to other clears, you dont need to put it heavy because will get texture, once you find the right spot flows and levels very well, and like mentioned before great shine and no die back. I also find that is very dependent on reducer, i had some US2 left and use it and left me a little texture, then the same day i clear another piece with US4 and was almost perfect. I am curious about which reducer you use for complete paint job on your cuttlass, i still have not sprayed a full car with CC200 but not sure if US4 will get me there, what do you think?
Great Video ! The problem is that Sherwin-Williams clear is over $400 a Gallon, what inexpensive clear do you recommend that you have tried, have used Shop line , Mipa and a couple of others keystone was thinking about trying Wanda
@@kandyman5315 yeah I have been using their stuff for a while some guy just happened to show up at the shop one day that was selling it made in Germany seems to be like sikkens their polyester glazing putty well said they have a 1K etching and there are two part primers are also very good however someone I know uses Wanda and they say it's very good I was wondering if you ever tried it ! Going to give it a try what was that spray gun your recommended ? Been doing this my whole life and have so many spray guns don't know if I need another
How much of a difference is there between the c1 and c2 caps? I've shot the dv1 multiple times with the c1 and honestly did not like it much at all. No matter how much I adjusted the gun, pressure and my technique I just couldn't get a good finish. What are your thoughts between the two? I have a couple dv1s guns and love them, but I have the s2 caps on those.
Ok so for a guy that doesnt have a fancy booth or the ability yo bake other than using the sun can you tell me or verify lol is their such a clearcoat that you can sand and buff a day after you paint that will retain the gloss? I dont use a high end clear but I always have to sand and buff my jobs and it looks amazing but give it a week or two and it dies back, shrinks whatever is their hope?
Just started at new shop and they us the BC8 base with cc200 clear. I'm having problems with fisheye and I dont think its from a contaminated panel. I cleaned with waterbase and W/G remover. The booth can only reach 70 degree max so I'm using S4 reducer. Do you think I'm not letting it flash long enough or I need to use a slower reducer like S5? Air jets are used to dehydrate panel but at 70 degree maybe I need to dry longer then 20 min. If you have any experience with this issue I would appreciate it.
What do you think of the Acme 720 ? I do not have a booth I work out of my garage . I use a Devilbiss pro lite, I’m thinking a 1.3 with a T110 cap. What would you e the coolest temperature I could get it done with? Thanks for any advice !
hi today was my first day using sherwin williams system i was a bit upset with how my clear turned out its was the cc250 at 24psi i did it like i did all my ppg clear and its had alot of orange peel so ill try 18psi and see what happens
I watched your video and you referenced that the cc200 can be sprayed in a non paint booth environment but I looked at the PDS sheet and it's says out of dust in 60 minutes is that still ok for a shop without a paint booth?
@@kandyman5315 I hope to use it alot so far I really like the usability and price of the Sherwin Williams system I hope to build me a paint booth sometime after the first of the yr and can step up in clearcoat
I've been a yacht/boat painter for a little over 2 years now (mostly self taught), even though our professions are a little different, I've found that your videos and advice have great carry over and has made me that much better of a painter. Your videos are greatly appreciated.
Glad to hear that .paint is paint. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for your advice!
💯
For me it depends what I am doing. I use a Devilbiss DV1-C clear gun i use for complete paint jobs. If a show car I use high solids like Roberlo 510 Kronox, or Chameleon UHS 177, for budget high solids Acme Finish 1 FC740 super brilliant clear, which i use the 1.2mm nozzle in the DV1-C because it breaks up the solids better. If I am painting panels and anything I must blend I use either Akzonobile U-Tech 4.0 or Acme Finish 1 FC720 Ultimate overall clear. For the medium solids production clears i use the 1.3mm nozzle. I have a 1.4mm that it came with too but i never used it. I got a new gun for blending panels to replicate factory orange peel. Its a new gun called a Porphis prd-715 1.3mm that is an awsome looking gun that is anodized a bright metallic blue with black and orange controls, the flow knob is click adjust. Its a sata phaser clone basically. The DV1-C just lays to good of a finish for blending for me.
Goods information kandy man thanks appreciate you
Great info. Thanks.
Awesome thanks
Great knowledge shared!
Thank you. And thanks for watching 👊
Great info. Love the video
Thanks Charlie
Good video ,
My biggest issue is getting consistent air pressure with such a small compressor I’m constantly fighting pressure dropping , I usually try to use between 20-26 psi but but if I go 18 and pressure drops to 10 during spraying it’s sacrificing my finish , thinking maybe to add more air storage to try to remedy that prob
Eastwood got a amazing screw compressor for the house I'm gonna pick one up when can .but yes you could put a extra tank
@@kandyman5315 yeah I’ve been looking at that one for a while now it’s made by a company called Baldor in China, only issue is it runs on 220v not 100v which I’m limited to
Ya I had a 220v plug put in the garage for it . It's hard to find a100v that can produce
I’ll definitely try that
👍
I’ve been spraying the cc200 for a couple months now and I love it, we have the bc8 set up at our shop, solvent though not water. But the clear is something else, I spray it at 20-25 with my iwata
It is a great clear fast hangs on well and look great .💯
Yessir. Do you use the cc250? I tried it but the 200 is better in my opinion
Yes I agree cc200 much better product
200 uses same hardener that cc250
what you said makes lot of sense I see guys got their guns up so high that its just mist lol thanks for the video
Great video again 👏
👊
Nice job!! Are you talking about 18 PSI on DV1 digital gauge or the gauge before the gun? I'm asking because 20 psi on DV1 digital gauge in reality 28-30 PSI on the gauge before the gun. I have a gauge before the gun, so whatever DV1 showing is not actual pressure or that pressure somewhere inside of the gun. But you are exactly right most guns recommended settings are 29-30 PSI that not great with MS clears especially in Florida where the temps now about 94-95 Fahrenheit in the booth. I'm using Prime 45 clear ( MS) and it lays down and shines better with 25-26psi on the gauge before the gun.
That's on the digital gauge on the gun
@@kandyman5315 That's what i thought since i have same gun as well, so in reality it's about 25-26 psi. Other viewers who does not have this gun will be confused if they will set their guns of other brands to 18 PSI.
Great video brother
Thanks for watching 👊
I’m using the CC200 pretty happy with its drying time too
Love cc200
Kandyman i tried CC200 and totally agree with you, great clear, great shine, hard to buff if you wait too long but buffs great for me with Sonax Cutmax and microfiber pads, i found that is different to other clears, you dont need to put it heavy because will get texture, once you find the right spot flows and levels very well, and like mentioned before great shine and no die back. I also find that is very dependent on reducer, i had some US2 left and use it and left me a little texture, then the same day i clear another piece with US4 and was almost perfect. I am curious about which reducer you use for complete paint job on your cuttlass, i still have not sprayed a full car with CC200 but not sure if US4 will get me there, what do you think?
@@cruzs.9040 us4 is my jam
Great Info
👍
Great Video ! The problem is that Sherwin-Williams clear is over $400 a Gallon, what inexpensive clear do you recommend that you have tried, have used Shop line , Mipa and a couple of others keystone was thinking about trying Wanda
I heard mipa isn't bad
@@kandyman5315 yeah I have been using their stuff for a while some guy just happened to show up at the shop one day that was selling it made in Germany seems to be like sikkens their polyester glazing putty well said they have a 1K etching and there are two part primers are also very good however someone I know uses Wanda and they say it's very good I was wondering if you ever tried it ! Going to give it a try what was that spray gun your recommended ? Been doing this my whole life and have so many spray guns don't know if I need another
Would you recommend for a high end custom paint job? How does it cut and buff ? Great advice
Cc 200 Sherwin Williams is my choice put it on my custom painted kandy cutlass great clear
The clear I use for boats is a 2,1,1 plus accelerator. It’s 46.6% solids reduced. What is considered high solids?
45-55
How much of a difference is there between the c1 and c2 caps? I've shot the dv1 multiple times with the c1 and honestly did not like it much at all. No matter how much I adjusted the gun, pressure and my technique I just couldn't get a good finish. What are your thoughts between the two? I have a couple dv1s guns and love them, but I have the s2 caps on those.
It sprays different. But I'm a fan of both cap to be honest. Thanks for watching.
I have a brand new C2 aircap if you want to buy and try ill sell it to you cheaper than you can buy it online lol
Ok so for a guy that doesnt have a fancy booth or the ability yo bake other than using the sun can you tell me or verify lol is their such a clearcoat that you can sand and buff a day after you paint that will retain the gloss? I dont use a high end clear but I always have to sand and buff my jobs and it looks amazing but give it a week or two and it dies back, shrinks whatever is their hope?
The better the clear, the better it holds its gloss .so with that being said the longer you wait to buff the cheaper clears the better
Makes sense thanks!
Just started at new shop and they us the BC8 base with cc200 clear. I'm having problems with fisheye and I dont think its from a contaminated panel. I cleaned with waterbase and W/G remover. The booth can only reach 70 degree max so I'm using S4 reducer. Do you think I'm not letting it flash long enough or I need to use a slower reducer like S5? Air jets are used to dehydrate panel but at 70 degree maybe I need to dry longer then 20 min. If you have any experience with this issue I would appreciate it.
Us4 what hardner
Which one of cleats spray like 7000 ultra .and have u ever seen brown in your black paint job
What do you think of the Acme 720 ? I do not have a booth I work out of my garage . I use a Devilbiss pro lite, I’m thinking a 1.3 with a T110 cap. What would you e the coolest temperature I could get it done with? Thanks for any advice !
It's not bad for the money I don't spray lower than 70 degrees without a heated booth
@@kandyman5315 Thank you!
Are you using 1.2, 1.3 ?
1.3
How is the ultra 9K basecoat?
Not bad at all
hi today was my first day using sherwin williams system i was a bit upset with how my clear turned out its was the cc250 at 24psi i did it like i did all my ppg clear and its had alot of orange peel so ill try 18psi and see what happens
the guy thats suppose to come and help me like patrick did to you its no coming yet he is busy so i am just finding out how it works
I'm a fan of cc200 not 250
@@kandyman5315 ill try the cc200 then your the master and if you like its for a reason
@yohalmobarrera1849 cc200 is awesome clear it's what I used on my Cutlass cc200 us4 uh90 is the combo you want
@@kandyman5315 so i did the cc200 with 18psi 😹thing came out like glass
How does this clear coat hold up to elements?
Very good clear 👌
I watched your video and you referenced that the cc200 can be sprayed in a non paint booth environment but I looked at the PDS sheet and it's says out of dust in 60 minutes is that still ok for a shop without a paint booth?
Yes
@@kandyman5315 thanks man appreciate all the videos you do
No problem you will love that clear it's what I used on my Cutlass
One more thing, don't wait too long before you buff it it sets up hard
@@kandyman5315 I hope to use it alot so far I really like the usability and price of the Sherwin Williams system I hope to build me a paint booth sometime after the first of the yr and can step up in clearcoat
Is the cc2000 better than the 720 sherwin clear?
Never used 720 but cc200 is awesome. Thanks for watching
Cc200 is better than 720 clear but much more expensive. Way better gloss retention and will hold up way longer
Slow down the camera so we can actually see it....
👍
Good trick to no thanks bud
Thanks for watching. 👊
Psi is stupid my brother and paint and body teacher sets up the gun with the sound and listens