Thanks for the tips as always. I am on day 7 of ownership of my VW ID.4 Pro S and I have been averaging 50 miles overnight (9-10 hours) using the VW 30 amp charger and that's about my daily commute. However, I have already ordered the $750 Charge point 50 amp level 2 charger to be install. Accordingly for me, is worth the extra money, as a new EV owner to have the peace of mind of having a personal faster charger. Again, thanks for the tips and God bless.
Thanks for doing these excellent, clear videos for someone like me who is brand new to the EV ownership world. I just took possession of my 2024 ID.4 two days ago after learning almost nothing from my salesperson. My car came with a 40 amp charger (that looks exactly like the 30 amp unit in this video). I found out that the 3 free years of Electrify America that she reported to me is actually 500 kWh or 3 years, whichever comes first. So I will be leaning heavily on my home charger.
I had the same experience. Three people at the dealership told me I would have three years of unlimited charging at EA, but EA and Volkswagen said I get 3 years free membership on EA's plan (no session fee and a discount) plus 500 kWh of complimentary charge. It turns out that for 2021-23, ID.4's really did get unlimited 30 minute charging sessions at EA for three years. But in 2024, VW changed the deal and now we only get the 500 kWh plus the plan membership. Better than nothing, and I didn't make my choice on the strength of the free electricity, but I was looking forward to it. One more reason to get my home charging sorted out.
Hello, I will soon be buying a Chevy Bolt EUV. My plan is to purchase the Grizzl-E charging station. Is it better to have the receptacle from the panel below the charging station so the connecting cord is not curved or does it matter at all? Thank you for the very informative and useful video.
Great video and solid advice, thank you! I do have a question...the MyVW app for my iPhone gives me a choice of low or high current charging and recommends the latter for improved battery life. This, to me, is counter-intuitive. Higher current charging = higher temperatures for batteries and that has come to mean shorter battery life. Another advantage of lower current charging is reduced heat stress on all of the electrical components and connections between the main power into a panel and the outlet into which the EVSE is plugged. There are at least a few videos on UA-cam that indicate heat stress failures caused by improper installations, inadequate wire gauge, cheap NEMA 15-40 outlets are a growing concern for at home charging. I wonder if you have thoughts on this? Again, thanks!
I agree completely. Use the car's software for scheduling or limiting the SOC. Just buy a good quality, but simple, EVSE. You can find a decent 16 amp unit for as little as $180 (Duosida on Amazon). I have been using one of these for 5 years. It's not the fastest EVSE -- adds about 3.85 kW per hour -- but it uses thinner electrical wiring and only requires a dedicated line with a 20 amp circuit breaker. It cost me less than $100 for the circuit breaker, outlet, and electrical wiring, and I installed the new line/breaker myself.
Question in regard to the VW home charger that came with the id. 4. Should the blue light illumination on the charger remain constant or alternate between full charge illumination and dimming? Mine is alternating. The 240 volt line was installed yesterday. It has a 50 amp fuse.
While I generally agree with keeping it simple vs introducing redundant complexity, VW app does not show detailed information during charging sessions nor can I find if 2023 saves historical charging data. Having information such as kW used on a monthly basis and costs (with current electricity rates) is helpful in understanding cost savings vs ICE vehicle. With 3.1 software, scheduled charging seems to be working so I don't need that from my EVSE, but having historical charging data is helpful to me.
Agreed. If you have a general idea of your average efficiency (my 2019 Leaf is a minimum of 3.5 miles per kWh), you can back into your monthly electricity usage and cost. For example, I drive about 1000 miles per month. 1000 miles divided by 3.5 miles/kWh equals 310 kWh. I then figure about 10% overhead for charging, so about 340kWh total usage per month. In Georgia, I pay about 14 cents per kWh, so a total of $47.60 per month. For an ICE vehicle getting 30 miles per gallon, that's 33.33 gallons of gas per month to drive 1000 miles. At $3 per gallon, that's $100 per month for gas.
In Indiana we have to pay road tax up front with registration. Since that is included in the per gallon price you need to add to your electric cost to be honest. Still a great value and since it’s a flat cost, the more miles you drive the better.
I'm getting 3 mph with a level one charger plugged into my garage. I would like to get a VW level 2 charger. Can I plug that into my 220V laundry room socket using an extension cord? Otherwise I got a ridiculously expensive quote for upgrading my electrical in a detached garage.
I think that is a great question. And I get how painful the upgrade quotes can be. But. There is a growing concern as shown on several UA-cam videos about the inadequacy of typical (cheap) dryer outlets and how poorly designed and installed electric wiring can result in some serious (and potentially dangerous) issues. My suggestion is watch some of the videos (ua-cam.com/video/_JlMOzx44ss/v-deo.html) and get an electrician who will install a system that is safe and reliable.
No it does not. One of the cuts VW made with the 23s. If you buy a 23, you can buy a VW charger that is level 1 and 2. To be honest, the level 1 is not very good.
There is a forum user that advocates using a 220v into 110 outlet adapter which supplies the VW “level 1” with 220 v and thus doubles the kWh output. I asked my dealer and get a blank stare and “well, we couldn’t comment due to legal liability…..” (lawyers😡. Can you comment?
EP, so, you don’t know or don’t understand how they work. Same amps on 220 and there are dual voltage l1/l2 chargers out there with two plugs that dont “look” any more robust.
@@4rwayner7 I just may not know of any level 1/2 combinations that you speak of. I have looked at Audi, Mini, Nissan, VW, etc. Level 1/2 chargers and they are more robust.
You are simplifying too much. Some people want to track energy use, and use TOU plan when they find the car programming does not work. Is it worth it? I don’t think smart EVSEs are worth it, but many people disagree with me.
If the car programing does not work, of course use a charger that gives you the information you want. The only think I use is TOU. I do that by simply having the car charged before I leave for work in the morning. Since the charger does not start charging until 1:00 AM, it is not a problem. I own a 21 ID.4 and the software leaves a lot to be desired. However, the issues seem to be solved by the new update and/or owners of 22 and 23 cars.
Thanks for the tips as always. I am on day 7 of ownership of my VW ID.4 Pro S and I have been averaging 50 miles overnight (9-10 hours) using the VW 30 amp charger and that's about my daily commute. However, I have already ordered the $750 Charge point 50 amp level 2 charger to be install. Accordingly for me, is worth the extra money, as a new EV owner to have the peace of mind of having a personal faster charger. Again, thanks for the tips and God bless.
Thanks for doing these excellent, clear videos for someone like me who is brand new to the EV ownership world. I just took possession of my 2024 ID.4 two days ago after learning almost nothing from my salesperson. My car came with a 40 amp charger (that looks exactly like the 30 amp unit in this video). I found out that the 3 free years of Electrify America that she reported to me is actually 500 kWh or 3 years, whichever comes first. So I will be leaning heavily on my home charger.
I had the same experience. Three people at the dealership told me I would have three years of unlimited charging at EA, but EA and Volkswagen said I get 3 years free membership on EA's plan (no session fee and a discount) plus 500 kWh of complimentary charge. It turns out that for 2021-23, ID.4's really did get unlimited 30 minute charging sessions at EA for three years. But in 2024, VW changed the deal and now we only get the 500 kWh plus the plan membership. Better than nothing, and I didn't make my choice on the strength of the free electricity, but I was looking forward to it. One more reason to get my home charging sorted out.
Kyle from Out of Spec told me to follow. Thanks!! keep up the great work!!
Great info. I've been soaking up Tesla info but glad I've started broadening my views. Keep up the quality content!
Hello, I will soon be buying a Chevy Bolt EUV. My plan is to purchase the Grizzl-E charging station. Is it better to have the receptacle from the panel below the charging station so the connecting cord is not curved or does it matter at all? Thank you for the very informative and useful video.
Thanks for another great and educational video.
Thanks for watching! I appreciate you subscribing to the videos.
Wow, super informative!
Great video!
Were getting 1.5kw on our lvl charge and 23id4 at about 30/40F outside.
Thanks Evan.
Great video and solid advice, thank you! I do have a question...the MyVW app for my iPhone gives me a choice of low or high current charging and recommends the latter for improved battery life. This, to me, is counter-intuitive. Higher current charging = higher temperatures for batteries and that has come to mean shorter battery life. Another advantage of lower current charging is reduced heat stress on all of the electrical components and connections between the main power into a panel and the outlet into which the EVSE is plugged. There are at least a few videos on UA-cam that indicate heat stress failures caused by improper installations, inadequate wire gauge, cheap NEMA 15-40 outlets are a growing concern for at home charging. I wonder if you have thoughts on this? Again, thanks!
I agree completely. Use the car's software for scheduling or limiting the SOC. Just buy a good quality, but simple, EVSE. You can find a decent 16 amp unit for as little as $180 (Duosida on Amazon). I have been using one of these for 5 years. It's not the fastest EVSE -- adds about 3.85 kW per hour -- but it uses thinner electrical wiring and only requires a dedicated line with a 20 amp circuit breaker. It cost me less than $100 for the circuit breaker, outlet, and electrical wiring, and I installed the new line/breaker myself.
You are awesome! Less is more! Thanks for the great information for our fellow viewers.
Stay away from any non safety certified EVSE. It is not with burning down the house.
Question in regard to the VW home charger that came with the id. 4. Should the blue light illumination on the charger remain constant or alternate between full charge illumination and dimming? Mine is alternating. The 240 volt line was installed yesterday. It has a 50 amp fuse.
While I generally agree with keeping it simple vs introducing redundant complexity, VW app does not show detailed information during charging sessions nor can I find if 2023 saves historical charging data. Having information such as kW used on a monthly basis and costs (with current electricity rates) is helpful in understanding cost savings vs ICE vehicle. With 3.1 software, scheduled charging seems to be working so I don't need that from my EVSE, but having historical charging data is helpful to me.
Agreed. If you have a general idea of your average efficiency (my 2019 Leaf is a minimum of 3.5 miles per kWh), you can back into your monthly electricity usage and cost. For example, I drive about 1000 miles per month. 1000 miles divided by 3.5 miles/kWh equals 310 kWh. I then figure about 10% overhead for charging, so about 340kWh total usage per month. In Georgia, I pay about 14 cents per kWh, so a total of $47.60 per month. For an ICE vehicle getting 30 miles per gallon, that's 33.33 gallons of gas per month to drive 1000 miles. At $3 per gallon, that's $100 per month for gas.
In Indiana we have to pay road tax up front with registration. Since that is included in the per gallon price you need to add to your electric cost to be honest. Still a great value and since it’s a flat cost, the more miles you drive the better.
I'm getting 3 mph with a level one charger plugged into my garage. I would like to get a VW level 2 charger. Can I plug that into my 220V laundry room socket using an extension cord? Otherwise I got a ridiculously expensive quote for upgrading my electrical in a detached garage.
I think that is a great question. And I get how painful the upgrade quotes can be. But. There is a growing concern as shown on several UA-cam videos about the inadequacy of typical (cheap) dryer outlets and how poorly designed and installed electric wiring can result in some serious (and potentially dangerous) issues. My suggestion is watch some of the videos (ua-cam.com/video/_JlMOzx44ss/v-deo.html) and get an electrician who will install a system that is safe and reliable.
Bob, does the 2023 id4 manufactured in US come with a level 1 charger?
No it does not. One of the cuts VW made with the 23s. If you buy a 23, you can buy a VW charger that is level 1 and 2. To be honest, the level 1 is not very good.
Does all the id.4 2022 comes with a simple charger?
Yes. Level 1.
Is the vw 2-1 charger rated for a 30 amp (24 amp charge rate) or 40 amp (32 amp charge rate)
40 amp circuit for 30 amp charge rate.
There is a forum user that advocates using a 220v into 110 outlet adapter which supplies the VW “level 1” with 220 v and thus doubles the kWh output. I asked my dealer and get a blank stare and “well, we couldn’t comment due to legal liability…..” (lawyers😡. Can you comment?
I would not use the level one in this fashion. It is a wimpy little charger.
EP, so, you don’t know or don’t understand how they work. Same amps on 220 and there are dual voltage l1/l2 chargers out there with two plugs that dont “look” any more robust.
@@4rwayner7 I just may not know of any level 1/2 combinations that you speak of. I have looked at Audi, Mini, Nissan, VW, etc. Level 1/2 chargers and they are more robust.
Does the Amazon Megear Skyword level 1/2 EVSE look more robust? It is setup exactly the way the forum poster suggested for the stock ID4 charger.
You are simplifying too much. Some people want to track energy use, and use TOU plan when they find the car programming does not work. Is it worth it? I don’t think smart EVSEs are worth it, but many people disagree with me.
If the car programing does not work, of course use a charger that gives you the information you want. The only think I use is TOU. I do that by simply having the car charged before I leave for work in the morning. Since the charger does not start charging until 1:00 AM, it is not a problem. I own a 21 ID.4 and the software leaves a lot to be desired. However, the issues seem to be solved by the new update and/or owners of 22 and 23 cars.
Why does the car always lock the damn charge lock pin? Even when the car is charged and unlocked. It’s super annoying, awful logic VW.