Just got this kit for my 08 Ram 2500. It’s an excellent kit. After watching this video (outstanding video by the way), it’s shown me a few ways to improve how I installed the kit. Anyone looking at this kit should buy it. Also, BUY THE REAMING TOOL!
Very nice. I know these parts aren’t typical for what people are familiar with as far as installation procedure, but if they are patient and diligent to get everything tight and adjusted, it’s unbelievably good steering. And if you or they haven’t yet tried the long arm kits we have, they are an equally good improvement over the oem feel! Thx!
What i say is: you mod the car, you probably are wise enough to inspect everything while your oil is being changed/be smart enough to bring your service to a shop that knows what up. Aftermarket parts /may/ live shorter than oem* it /may/ live longer than oem. *In trackday peeps, we know the saying "pay to play"
even if you get the ebay specials for your jeeps (xj specifically) it makes a WORLD of difference, got rid of ALL my bumpsteer on about a 6" long arm lift...I also got some quality stainless hoseclamps and cranked them right below each nut
I would recommend to always use misalignment spacers with a wide base against the knuckle (or against any other component of the car), because that helps the bolt take far less bending forces. The wide base acts like a pyramid providing much higher sideways stability to the bolt joint.
Many times I’ve thought about using all safety misalignments and no standard for that reason. But we have never had a failure. Basically takes the equivalent of a car accident, of course wheeling guys find this on purpose so I hear ya
I completed my 2006 6.0 F250 4X4 this weekend. I absolutely would recommend the kit. For a point of reference, I have a Bilstein leveling kit, and FFS radius arms. I considered buying replacement tie rod ends and keeping things OEM. It was almost the same price as the spherical rod ends, so it was a no brainer. As per the instructions, I used the 3/4" reamer for the driver's side knuckle and the pitman arm. It's definitely worth the money to buy the reamer, but use some cutting oil to preserve the life of the reamer. During this project, I also replaced the track bar ball joint. Mine was toast. I did a complete ball joint replacement a few months ago. All this being said, my truck feels like it's driving on rails. No death wobble. Steering feels super solid. Aligning wasn't too difficult. The next addition is a dual steering stabilizer. Hope this helps.
I have used them. They are fine. We just built many tie rods at different degrees of bend so they don’t fit all those. But if an inch offset is enough, perfect
great video. you explain so well and clear on how heim joints work pros and cons. I just purchase the cavfab steering for my xj. Now i fully understand how these work. thanks for this amazing video. keep up the good work
I have some rod ends that I think are installed wrong but everyone I talk to says it is fine. They are sooo sloppy and clunk onto metal. Everywhere I have taken it though, hasn't mentioned an issue. I am starting to lose hope.
Any problem should be able to easily be identified. A steering inspection with someone else moving the wheel in steady increments for little to big, starting the inspection at the steering box all the way to the wheels will show loose parts, noises ect. Good quality rod ends should not be or get loose without some type of abuse, extreme dirt over time without cleaning or maintaining, or if they get set up to bind during use. That’ll wipe them out pretty quickly. Id like to help. Darrell.FarFromStock@gmail.com
You are absolutely right, however, if you are careful and patient at home you don’t need an alignment shop. You need your axle squared with your frame, tape measure work. Favor having the right front lead is any error. You can’t adjust camber, caster is important and easy to adjust and check with an angle finder, and it’s not picky, as long as you are in a good range, 4 5-6° ish. And toe can be measured with a tape measure. 0° is often recommended but a little toe is important, and if you have wide wheels, add a little more. A few test drives and you can feel the difference. I like 1/16 toe, 1/8 with wide wheels. Measured like a stock wheel is on there. Toe measuring bars bolted on are cheap and plenty good
I want these but they are illegal in Australia :( Where I live, there are no regular inspections but a cop can order your vehicle be inspected if they suspect something may not be legal…then you gotta change EVERYTHING back to stock :/
they should never make a popping noise. sometimes I have a new joint that acts a little stiff on initial movement, that’s ok, it’s nice and new and tight, I just spray it with the penetrating/lubricant combo I intend to use as maintenance until it soaks in. usually not stubborn but we have had a few. otherwise popping sounds like a binding situation that should not be allowed. rod end alignment is up to the installer and needs to be free to move as intended throughout the range of travel per application
A couple of questions: why do you choose not to tap in a grease nipple and is this set up a good choice for a 92 f350 4x4, 7.3 highway hauler with occasional of road (not mudding or crawling, just going off road when necessary) thanks. Great video and awesome part. Pb blaster as a penetrationg lubricant or a cable lubricant? How would an alignment shop with no heim experience, adjust them?
The liner in the heim is tight with no room for grease and is technically self lubricating. Boots are a great option to keep a little grease on them for mostly corrosion resistance. Definitely a good setup on your 7.3 although it’s track bar setup needs help. PB blaster is a penetrant, not necessarily a lubricant. So id choose a different one
great vid answers lot that noone askes or answers i have lower control arms that have those joints from cavfab twice ive replaced in first month always get one that sounds like has play i used pb blast silicone spray to lube still make noise im using factory tq spec on bolts from what your sayin they last long time i either need to tq tighter or there junk ends then and how do i get those rubber boots
Hey man I been looking for days for a steering kit for my 2000xj and I just can't make up my mind. I got a fully adjustable 5in lift kit with stock track bar brackets and I'm curious your thoughts.
@@mopar1darrell I’ve got my eyes on a set of trac bars and now probably these on your website. Whenever I can find some spare coin :/ your attn to detail sets you apart from many others
Only the drag link pivot bolts could you over tighten, but not an issue as long as you are done adjusting. 3/4 grade 8 fine bolts can take up to 400 ft/lbs appropriately, and the 7/8 jamb nuts as well. So the answer to everything but the drag link 3/4 bolt is “tight!”. Especially important is the track bar jamb nuts, and they probably can only be correctly done in the vice off the vehicle. Long wrenches, as tight as you can, probably best to use a helper.
I like Heim joints alot but they tend to loosen up & make a ton of noise especially on the suspension. How long do these last vs greasable 1 ton joints?
these should last for years of use if cared for, with no signs of noise or of being loose. where we live, salt/brine in the winter is the worst, otherwise mud/rain ect, but a simple spray with a penetrant/lubricant combo is all i use. we do have a boot kit, little bit of a pain on install, but turns them into the hassle free maintenance feel of a regular tie rod end. we are working right now to reduce the cost of the boot kit. I’ve had the same rod ends on my all season daily for a couple years now and they work great. the rod ends on my non-salt/brine truck are nearly 10 years old. no problems
I would never use heims on any daily drive vehicle & especially never in areas that see salt. Heims get sloppy VERY quickly, I don’t care what anyone claims. Even called QA1 for recommendations and the tech on the phone long lasting & heims should never be used in the same sentence. My 2nd gen Ram I was replacing them yearly on the 4 link & trac bar. I literally tried every heims in the Summit catalog, and none lasted longer than a year. I’ll stick with a TRE.
@@shawnbentley6280 I have heim steering on my daily in Ohio and also it’s radius arms. Probably a couple hard dirty often off road years and nothing causing problems. If i had our boots they would remain superior to a traditional hd tie rod end. As it is though, if I have a loose one, itll be on the track bar, and with me not really caring for them well, it’ll be my fault. Definitely have been my choice for years. I started my custom play truck out on tre’s but as the wore out I switched to rod ends. Not a salt driven vehicle. Have been much better
Anybody with a Jeep yj without a track bar ever (or is it even usable) just use helms on the passenger side to raise the drag link up and keep the tie rod in the same spot?
Is this cross over steering glad I found this! I’ve been looking into doing a 3rd gen upgrade on my 97 Dodge Ram 2500, including T-style HD steering kit, intermediate steering shaft, and adjustable track bar. If I went with this route instead what other parts would you recommend and do you know how this would compare to the T-style steering or even the Y steering I currently have.
There is no way to make a t or y style steering quite right, it won’t compare to this traditional crossover. But most crossover kits also miss proper geometry due to oem mounting points. We have this fixed with equal length drag link/track bar. Takes a little patience on install and then you have a remarkably better steering than all others you mentioned. Our kit comes with all 3 steering bars and the track bar bracket as well as the largest track bar hardware in the industry as standard. If you order with dual steering stabilizers, nothing else would be needed. Of course a good condition steering input shaft and steering box, ball joints ect are important but those aren’t often as bad as the other steering factors. There’s nothing wrong with one of those steering box sector shaft braces, but they shouldn’t be necessary. For overall handling and feel one other additional kit to really improve these trucks is our radius long arm. 👍🏼👍🏼
Making sure the shank of the bolt your using at least makes it most of the way through the heim is also a good idea so its on a solid surface not threads. not sure how much of a difference there actually is but i feel like not enough people think about it especially some people that build there own stuff
These will be way stronger than the factory bull $hit that breaks in a half year. I just paint it all black drive through a mud hole or 2 and then let them inspect. You’ll pass for sure
I never use loctite, just because I must get a re-torque or two after driving. So that makes the re-torque feel unnecessary with the wrenches, but needed. So just like a lug nut, but with the advantage of a nylon lock, torque and re-torque makes it permanent
@@mopar1darrell you have to torque retorque and retorque again a time or two because you don't use loctite 😂 and no its not like a lug nut because its not a lug nut...lol
If you compare it to any shelf part, a tie rod end will an internal plastic liner that can be dented with a single pothole, it’s an upgrade. Even the “lifetime “ stuff on the shelf is made like this. Adding all your steering joints to the list of chasing why your tires are wearing that is already complicated when running regular wheel bearings and ball joints. All this regular garbage. If it wasn’t an upgrade, you wouldn’t see them on off road and race vehicles.
They also have significantly less binding tendency. That way the components can work together smoothly. Rubber when you compress one side, it's going to fight back and push against causing spots in the steering and or travel of the components that are more of a binding as opposed to a truly smooth driving dynamic where it's always predictable. So I'm not sure how you say that this wouldn't be an upgrade and most racing situation they would just drill a small hole in the bolt that goes through and safety wire it😅 As far as it sharing the bolt as long as you spray it with like some sort of undercoating treatment such as wool wax in the part that's going to be inside the spindle not where you're trying to put your thread locker. You can safeguard it from rusting in those voids just like the same with the inside of those tubes. You spray it with a lanolin-based undercoating and it creeps all over the inside of that tube and you won't have rust issues cuz it'll never get washed off once you stick a hose in there with detergent but most people close this. The roll cage up all the way so the rust proof it from the inside you spray it with lanolin
Just got this kit for my 08 Ram 2500. It’s an excellent kit. After watching this video (outstanding video by the way), it’s shown me a few ways to improve how I installed the kit. Anyone looking at this kit should buy it. Also, BUY THE REAMING TOOL!
Very nice. I know these parts aren’t typical for what people are familiar with as far as installation procedure, but if they are patient and diligent to get everything tight and adjusted, it’s unbelievably good steering.
And if you or they haven’t yet tried the long arm kits we have, they are an equally good improvement over the oem feel! Thx!
What i say is: you mod the car, you probably are wise enough to inspect everything while your oil is being changed/be smart enough to bring your service to a shop that knows what up.
Aftermarket parts /may/ live shorter than oem* it /may/ live longer than oem.
*In trackday peeps, we know the saying "pay to play"
even if you get the ebay specials for your jeeps (xj specifically) it makes a WORLD of difference, got rid of ALL my bumpsteer on about a 6" long arm lift...I also got some quality stainless hoseclamps and cranked them right below each nut
I would recommend to always use misalignment spacers with a wide base against the knuckle (or against any other component of the car), because that helps the bolt take far less bending forces. The wide base acts like a pyramid providing much higher sideways stability to the bolt joint.
Many times I’ve thought about using all safety misalignments and no standard for that reason. But we have never had a failure. Basically takes the equivalent of a car accident, of course wheeling guys find this on purpose so I hear ya
I completed my 2006 6.0 F250 4X4 this weekend. I absolutely would recommend the kit. For a point of reference, I have a Bilstein leveling kit, and FFS radius arms. I considered buying replacement tie rod ends and keeping things OEM. It was almost the same price as the spherical rod ends, so it was a no brainer. As per the instructions, I used the 3/4" reamer for the driver's side knuckle and the pitman arm. It's definitely worth the money to buy the reamer, but use some cutting oil to preserve the life of the reamer. During this project, I also replaced the track bar ball joint. Mine was toast. I did a complete ball joint replacement a few months ago. All this being said, my truck feels like it's driving on rails. No death wobble. Steering feels super solid. Aligning wasn't too difficult. The next addition is a dual steering stabilizer. Hope this helps.
What about passenger side knuckle?
The passenger side is already big enough for a 3/4 bolt
I have been thinking about using offset hiems rather than having the tube bent therefore you can just twist the tierod to adjust alignment
I have used them. They are fine. We just built many tie rods at different degrees of bend so they don’t fit all those. But if an inch offset is enough, perfect
great video. you explain so well and clear on how heim joints work pros and cons. I just purchase the cavfab steering for my xj. Now i fully understand how these work. thanks for this amazing video. keep up the good work
Wonderful video, thank you. The bloopers at the end were great too
I think in my state a castle nut is required and that set up is fine. Basically they want to see a cotter pin and you're good.
Interesting to hear
Instead of putting a bend in the tie rod and drag link, what about using offset Heims, assuming they're offset enough to clear the pumpkin cover?
As long as the inch of offset is enough, no problem
Lucas motorcycle chain lube is awsome stuff,works on frozen padlocks also
Looks good but have but the sand
Hi, great video.... What track bar bracket are u running. ??? Looks really beefy
We have two of our own. Engineered to eliminate bump steer. FarFromStockStore.com
I have some rod ends that I think are installed wrong but everyone I talk to says it is fine. They are sooo sloppy and clunk onto metal. Everywhere I have taken it though, hasn't mentioned an issue. I am starting to lose hope.
Any problem should be able to easily be identified. A steering inspection with someone else moving the wheel in steady increments for little to big, starting the inspection at the steering box all the way to the wheels will show loose parts, noises ect. Good quality rod ends should not be or get loose without some type of abuse, extreme dirt over time without cleaning or maintaining, or if they get set up to bind during use. That’ll wipe them out pretty quickly. Id like to help. Darrell.FarFromStock@gmail.com
Does anyone know if you can take these to get an alignment at most shops, like stock tierods.
I’ve been thinking bout this
You are absolutely right, however, if you are careful and patient at home you don’t need an alignment shop. You need your axle squared with your frame, tape measure work. Favor having the right front lead is any error. You can’t adjust camber, caster is important and easy to adjust and check with an angle finder, and it’s not picky, as long as you are in a good range, 4
5-6° ish. And toe can be measured with a tape measure. 0° is often recommended but a little toe is important, and if you have wide wheels, add a little more. A few test drives and you can feel the difference. I like 1/16 toe, 1/8 with wide wheels. Measured like a stock wheel is on there. Toe measuring bars bolted on are cheap and plenty good
I want these but they are illegal in Australia :( Where I live, there are no regular inspections but a cop can order your vehicle be inspected if they suspect something may not be legal…then you gotta change EVERYTHING back to stock :/
Wish yall had this video when i did my steering so much info i needed at the time😅
Have you ever put these on a second gen Ram 1500 I'm looking at custom making one cuz I could not find a single kit
You forgot astroglide when naming penetrating lubricants
Any time I’ve ever bought rods like these i ALWAYS look for one I don’t have to take off to align. Do you make a set with a adjuster in the tow rod?
We have those parts. Wouldn’t be tough to make a set. I don’t prefer them personally but it’s not a problem
What size is the heim joints in the bar
7/8 x 7/8
Great video! just bought your high steer kit!
I would trust this with my family over the stock stuff anyway folks
Do heim joints make popping noise a lot?
they should never make a popping noise. sometimes I have a new joint that acts a little stiff on initial movement, that’s ok, it’s nice and new and tight, I just spray it with the penetrating/lubricant combo I intend to use as maintenance until it soaks in. usually not stubborn but we have had a few. otherwise popping sounds like a binding situation that should not be allowed. rod end alignment is up to the installer and needs to be free to move as intended throughout the range of travel per application
A couple of questions: why do you choose not to tap in a grease nipple and is this set up a good choice for a 92 f350 4x4, 7.3 highway hauler with occasional of road (not mudding or crawling, just going off road when necessary) thanks. Great video and awesome part. Pb blaster as a penetrationg lubricant or a cable lubricant?
How would an alignment shop with no heim experience, adjust them?
The liner in the heim is tight with no room for grease and is technically self lubricating. Boots are a great option to keep a little grease on them for mostly corrosion resistance. Definitely a good setup on your 7.3 although it’s track bar setup needs help. PB blaster is a penetrant, not necessarily a lubricant. So id choose a different one
@@mopar1darrell cheers
Can you do a video on your first gen cross over steering set-up
great vid answers lot that noone askes or answers i have lower control arms that have those joints from cavfab twice ive replaced in first month always get one that sounds like has play i used pb blast silicone spray to lube still make noise im using factory tq spec on bolts from what your sayin they last long time i either need to tq tighter or there junk ends then and how do i get those rubber boots
Call in for boots. We might even have a hd replacement that’ll fit your part, 7409390073
Hey man I been looking for days for a steering kit for my 2000xj and I just can't make up my mind. I got a fully adjustable 5in lift kit with stock track bar brackets and I'm curious your thoughts.
Get the cavfab 1 ton alpha steering wont regret it 🤟
where do u live with no safety inspections, i’m gonna have to join ya hahaha
S/E Ohio, lots of the country is that way away from the big cities
i have heims on my jeep, they are torqued to 120 with red loctite, thats not coming off.
Would love to convert to heim joints on my super duty.
We’ve got some parts for that. More on the way
@@mopar1darrell I’ve got my eyes on a set of trac bars and now probably these on your website. Whenever I can find some spare coin :/ your attn to detail sets you apart from many others
Just did mine. Worked out awesome.
@@donc6375 tighten it up a bit?
@@StephenBrewer89 yes it did. Feels like it's riding on rails.
Installing your heim joints on my 2011 Ram 2500. Any kind of torque number suggestion when tightening the bolts up on them?
Only the drag link pivot bolts could you over tighten, but not an issue as long as you are done adjusting. 3/4 grade 8 fine bolts can take up to 400 ft/lbs appropriately, and the 7/8 jamb nuts as well. So the answer to everything but the drag link 3/4 bolt is “tight!”. Especially important is the track bar jamb nuts, and they probably can only be correctly done in the vice off the vehicle. Long wrenches, as tight as you can, probably best to use a helper.
The teacher that just drones on&on&on,,,,,putting the entire class to sleep
I like Heim joints alot but they tend to loosen up & make a ton of noise especially on the suspension. How long do these last vs greasable 1 ton joints?
these should last for years of use if cared for, with no signs of noise or of being loose. where we live, salt/brine in the winter is the worst, otherwise mud/rain ect, but a simple spray with a penetrant/lubricant combo is all i use. we do have a boot kit, little bit of a pain on install, but turns them into the hassle free maintenance feel of a regular tie rod end. we are working right now to reduce the cost of the boot kit. I’ve had the same rod ends on my all season daily for a couple years now and they work great. the rod ends on my non-salt/brine truck are nearly 10 years old. no problems
I would never use heims on any daily drive vehicle & especially never in areas that see salt. Heims get sloppy VERY quickly, I don’t care what anyone claims. Even called QA1 for recommendations and the tech on the phone long lasting & heims should never be used in the same sentence.
My 2nd gen Ram I was replacing them yearly on the 4 link & trac bar. I literally tried every heims in the Summit catalog, and none lasted longer than a year.
I’ll stick with a TRE.
@@shawnbentley6280 I have heim steering on my daily in Ohio and also it’s radius arms. Probably a couple hard dirty often off road years and nothing causing problems. If i had our boots they would remain superior to a traditional hd tie rod end. As it is though, if I have a loose one, itll be on the track bar, and with me not really caring for them well, it’ll be my fault. Definitely have been my choice for years. I started my custom play truck out on tre’s but as the wore out I switched to rod ends. Not a salt driven vehicle. Have been much better
Fantastic video! Straight to the point, and very informative.
Great video Darrell, never knew this now i understand it a lot more better
Anybody with a Jeep yj without a track bar ever (or is it even usable) just use helms on the passenger side to raise the drag link up and keep the tie rod in the same spot?
Yj, meaning leaf spring, that would work if it isn’t lifted too high, the drag link needs to be fairly level (ish) to not have bump steer
This is a wonderful video, thank you
Do you guys have a kit for the 2002 f250
Yes we do, it’s new, very nice
Great video. Do y'all have a kit for a ramcharger with a d44? I see the d60 and d44 kits with the traditional set up but not like this
We have done these before, we can, just takes a little more work with tapping the knuckle for a high steer. 7409390073
I’m going to do a little work on this subject with the latest project truck. Stay posted
Is this cross over steering glad I found this! I’ve been looking into doing a 3rd gen upgrade on my 97 Dodge Ram 2500, including T-style HD steering kit, intermediate steering shaft, and adjustable track bar. If I went with this route instead what other parts would you recommend and do you know how this would compare to the T-style steering or even the Y steering I currently have.
There is no way to make a t or y style steering quite right, it won’t compare to this traditional crossover. But most crossover kits also miss proper geometry due to oem mounting points. We have this fixed with equal length drag link/track bar. Takes a little patience on install and then you have a remarkably better steering than all others you mentioned. Our kit comes with all 3 steering bars and the track bar bracket as well as the largest track bar hardware in the industry as standard. If you order with dual steering stabilizers, nothing else would be needed. Of course a good condition steering input shaft and steering box, ball joints ect are important but those aren’t often as bad as the other steering factors. There’s nothing wrong with one of those steering box sector shaft braces, but they shouldn’t be necessary. For overall handling and feel one other additional kit to really improve these trucks is our radius long arm. 👍🏼👍🏼
Kimball Midwest makes the best penetrating fluid. Nothing else compares.
Making sure the shank of the bolt your using at least makes it most of the way through the heim is also a good idea so its on a solid surface not threads. not sure how much of a difference there actually is but i feel like not enough people think about it especially some people that build there own stuff
I think the torque spec is more important than threads, think wheel studs, all thread, must have lugs torqued👍🏼
Great Vid Brother!
Does this track bar bracket kit for my 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4? My Ram have no lift kits.
We have 2 kits for stock height
Some states its illegal 🚫
Where are you located what state and city.
ya fuck let’s move there
43748
Do you have one for a 91 dodge w250?
We have lots of great steering for that
Great video!
Expert
These will be way stronger than the factory bull $hit that breaks in a half year. I just paint it all black drive through a mud hole or 2 and then let them inspect. You’ll pass for sure
😂👍🏼
Very informative!
Thats the plan one day!
Nylock nut and locktite! No problems!!
I never use loctite, just because I must get a re-torque or two after driving. So that makes the re-torque feel unnecessary with the wrenches, but needed. So just like a lug nut, but with the advantage of a nylon lock, torque and re-torque makes it permanent
@@mopar1darrell you have to torque retorque and retorque again a time or two because you don't use loctite 😂 and no its not like a lug nut because its not a lug nut...lol
Great video!!!
I have a f250 that i want to upgrade all that stuff got a link or phone number
7409390073
Yeah this is was a bad choice .
With a little attention, they can last tight for years. If you have trouble, we want to know. It can be avoided
I finally found a shop that will install it for me see what happens next....
👍🏽
That "upgrade" is complete idiocy.
If you compare it to any shelf part, a tie rod end will an internal plastic liner that can be dented with a single pothole, it’s an upgrade. Even the “lifetime “ stuff on the shelf is made like this. Adding all your steering joints to the list of chasing why your tires are wearing that is already complicated when running regular wheel bearings and ball joints. All this regular garbage. If it wasn’t an upgrade, you wouldn’t see them on off road and race vehicles.
They also have significantly less binding tendency. That way the components can work together smoothly. Rubber when you compress one side, it's going to fight back and push against causing spots in the steering and or travel of the components that are more of a binding as opposed to a truly smooth driving dynamic where it's always predictable. So I'm not sure how you say that this wouldn't be an upgrade and most racing situation they would just drill a small hole in the bolt that goes through and safety wire it😅
As far as it sharing the bolt as long as you spray it with like some sort of undercoating treatment such as wool wax in the part that's going to be inside the spindle not where you're trying to put your thread locker. You can safeguard it from rusting in those voids just like the same with the inside of those tubes. You spray it with a lanolin-based undercoating and it creeps all over the inside of that tube and you won't have rust issues cuz it'll never get washed off once you stick a hose in there with detergent but most people close this. The roll cage up all the way so the rust proof it from the inside you spray it with lanolin
Dude, what makes you think you should put your mug in the shot? You have good info, and topic, but lookin at your face is unbearable.
Rude
Lol😂
o8rkex
vur.life