Thanks for the great video. I'm in the process of replacing several muntin bars and it is one of the most complex things I've ever done ( I spent 5 years building blueprinted air cooled Porsche engines for a motorsports team, have masters in microbiology, am a certified PA). My brain just doesn't work this way so my hat is off to you!
Nice to see some actual detail on how to cut these joints. Why didn't you use a mortise chisel that fitted the edge size so you didn't need to fiddle with the extra cut - would it weaken it? Would you consider making some videos on how to cut the joints for a casement window frame and sashes. There are a few ways of doing it, would be nice to know the pros and cons. Thanks
Hi yes I just seem to work better that way. Yes I would like to make some casement and sash vids. Next time iam am doing some I will do a vid. Haven't got any booked in at the moment. It's all chair repairs at the moment. Cheers 👍
@@listerjoinery Thanks. I've made a couple but it took me a long time to figure out. Had problems using double glazing and what size timber to use, as the original was based on common timber ie 2 by 2. And then how big to make the glazing bars while still keeping them looking slim. Also, had to experiment with making franked and haunched tenon joints. I spoke to an old joiner I know (80yrs old and working since he was 14!) he doesn't bother with haunches - saying that with modern glues you don't need them.
Excellent. I want to make a glazing bar to fit slim double-glazing units in a traditional house. Can you show how to do that, please? How different would it be to this video?
Very good old school technique, but speaking as a lazy sod would it not be quicker and easier to machine scribe and profile them afterwards? Or do you not have sliding table/tenoner? No criticism on your work intended by the way as your results are excellent 👍
Hi no u wouldn't just insert it in the rebate. U would mortise and tennon it into the rebate. So u would have to glue the whole thing up at the same time. Hope that makes sense. Cheers 👍
@@listerjoinery cheers mate,im a site carpenter by trade but starting to get into a bit of joinery,would a domino be suffice to use for loose tenons into the door stiles and rails
If you needed to fit these into an already assembled frame in between the stiles without taking the frame apart, how might you do it? My first thought was dowels as domino's are too big, but then how would you get both sides in? Great Video BTW, stop motion especially good, must have taken some time. Thanks!
@@listerjoinery That's what I thought. It would be awkward for sure, all I could think of is angled dowels/pocket holes. Or mitre from both sides and pin.
Me, being like yer cope saw (at my age-late WWII DOB) some of my smaller teeth are worn away and the local dental man wants to much for putting in store-bought replacements.
I’ve been planning on making a panelled window above our front door. Do you think it’s possible to make similar glazing bars out of timber strips and glass bead, or would you say your all-in-one approach would yield better results?
That is helpful; I thought it was done with a router but now I see it would be sketchy offering up that muntin to a 10,000 RPM profiling bit. The old sash windows had so much soul compared to the extruded aluminum and plastic ones you find at the big-box stores. For even more soul; fill those lights with hand-blown clear window glass like this buncha cool dudes are making over in Germany: ua-cam.com/video/QXQMc0jsl2E/v-deo.html I don't have anything to do with the company or people; I just like the glass and know it is hard to find that kind of glass here in the US. There is some available that looks suspiciously like regular window glass that has been heated up to try to give it a wavy look but its just not the same look as they get from blowing that huge barrel shaped glass bubble and cutting it open in the furnace hearth and laying it out flat with the wooden float. If link is not trusted, the title is: See How Window Glass Is Made The Artisinal Way
Again,more brilliant and concise instruction from you!!! Thank you
this was really helpful, as newbie to woodworking this one has had me stumped for a while, really appreciate it. LOVE the stop motion too !
Hi John thanks glad it helped. 👍
Love your video format with the "preview".
Excellent explanation and videography.
Simply amazing!
Thank you Sir!
Thanks for the great video. I'm in the process of replacing several muntin bars and it is one of the most complex things I've ever done ( I spent 5 years building blueprinted air cooled Porsche engines for a motorsports team, have masters in microbiology, am a certified PA). My brain just doesn't work this way so my hat is off to you!
Hey glad the vid was a help. 👍
Great job 👏 👍🏼 thanks for sharing
Many thanks for this.
Nicely explained.
Fascinating. How would you dimension glazing bar for double glazed units, say 14mm thick?
I use cope and stick router bits for this. I'm a single pane specialist
very nice work. Thank you.
Nice Work
Nice to see some actual detail on how to cut these joints. Why didn't you use a mortise chisel that fitted the edge size so you didn't need to fiddle with the extra cut - would it weaken it? Would you consider making some videos on how to cut the joints for a casement window frame and sashes. There are a few ways of doing it, would be nice to know the pros and cons. Thanks
Hi yes I just seem to work better that way. Yes I would like to make some casement and sash vids. Next time iam am doing some I will do a vid. Haven't got any booked in at the moment. It's all chair repairs at the moment. Cheers 👍
@@listerjoinery Thanks. I've made a couple but it took me a long time to figure out. Had problems using double glazing and what size timber to use, as the original was based on common timber ie 2 by 2. And then how big to make the glazing bars while still keeping them looking slim. Also, had to experiment with making franked and haunched tenon joints. I spoke to an old joiner I know (80yrs old and working since he was 14!) he doesn't bother with haunches - saying that with modern glues you don't need them.
Excellent. I want to make a glazing bar to fit slim double-glazing units in a traditional house. Can you show how to do that, please? How different would it be to this video?
Hi it would be the same process. just make the glazing bar bigger with a deep rebate to accommodate your thicker double glazing.
Another great instructional videos for all levels of carpentry & joinery.
Where do you get your coping saw blades with small teeth to begin.
Hi I found them on eBay. 👍
Fab!
How would you do a cross joint for glazing bars with a triangular section with a flat-topped top section ie like a toberlone section
When you scribed the line with the jig for the coping cut. Was it just a 45 degree miter you referenced?
Hi yes it was.
thank you, if you can, please identify a video on UA-cam which shows how to make a basic wooden sash window using basic tools.
Very good old school technique, but speaking as a lazy sod would it not be quicker and easier to machine scribe and profile them afterwards? Or do you not have sliding table/tenoner? No criticism on your work intended by the way as your results are excellent 👍
Hi yes it would be quicker to scribe then profile on a spindle or tennoner which I have both. I just thought this made a better vid. 🤣
when you make these for sash windows and doors etc would you make them as a frame and then insert into a rebate of the door?
Hi no u wouldn't just insert it in the rebate. U would mortise and tennon it into the rebate. So u would have to glue the whole thing up at the same time. Hope that makes sense. Cheers 👍
@@listerjoinery cheers mate,im a site carpenter by trade but starting to get into a bit of joinery,would a domino be suffice to use for loose tenons into the door stiles and rails
Hi to domino these glazing bars into the styles u would have to make the glazing bars quite a bit bigger in section to be able to fit a domino in.👍
What make/model of mortising machine do you use?
Hi its an old machine the make is multico.. Cheers
At last, a really good video - which cutter set do you use on your router table might I ask?
Hi Adrian
It's done on a spindle moulder with some trend discs.
Cheers Olly
If you needed to fit these into an already assembled frame in between the stiles without taking the frame apart, how might you do it? My first thought was dowels as domino's are too big, but then how would you get both sides in? Great Video BTW, stop motion especially good, must have taken some time. Thanks!
Hi their no good way of really doing that. Because the piece u wanna fit in is bigger that the opening.
Otherwise it will just be a butt joint. 👍
@@listerjoinery That's what I thought. It would be awkward for sure, all I could think of is angled dowels/pocket holes. Or mitre from both sides and pin.
Me, being like yer cope saw (at my age-late WWII DOB) some of my smaller teeth are worn away and the local dental man wants to much for putting in store-bought replacements.
Awsome🥰🥰🤗🤗🤗🤗
Thank you for making this! What is the profile called and do you mind sharing the cutter you use? Thank you!
Hi its a traditional sash ovolo.
@@listerjoinery Thank you!
I’ve been planning on making a panelled window above our front door. Do you think it’s possible to make similar glazing bars out of timber strips and glass bead, or would you say your all-in-one approach would yield better results?
Hi All in 1 would be better but if u can't get or make that section of timber. Then making out of different peices could work for u.
@@listerjoinery many thanks! Your vid is well useful, given me some pointers too :)
Righto !!!
That is helpful; I thought it was done with a router but now I see it would be sketchy offering up that muntin to a 10,000 RPM profiling bit. The old sash windows had so much soul compared to the extruded aluminum and plastic ones you find at the big-box stores. For even more soul; fill those lights with hand-blown clear window glass like this buncha cool dudes are making over in Germany: ua-cam.com/video/QXQMc0jsl2E/v-deo.html I don't have anything to do with the company or people; I just like the glass and know it is hard to find that kind of glass here in the US. There is some available that looks suspiciously like regular window glass that has been heated up to try to give it a wavy look but its just not the same look as they get from blowing that huge barrel shaped glass bubble and cutting it open in the furnace hearth and laying it out flat with the wooden float. If link is not trusted, the title is: See How Window Glass Is Made The Artisinal Way
Nice job. Ball ache if you have to do 20 sash’s though 🤣
Ha yeah totally. 👍Then it's worth setting the spindle moulder up.
ive 152 to do im so looking forwards to it