When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Trend diamond stones: amzn.to/2XomWMi Related videos► Part 1- Simple glass doors: ua-cam.com/video/iWMEE01eDgM/v-deo.html Part 2- Divided glass doors: (This Video) Part 3- Choosing and cutting glass (Coming soon) How to make cope & stick door frame- ua-cam.com/video/jaQgm0rZ87U/v-deo.html (We may get a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links.) Subscribe (free) to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal e-Magazine► www.stumpynubs.com/
Once again your videos came through and helped me complete a job. I am currently working on my third full kitchen and the client wants 8 glass doors that until now I had no idea how to do. Thank you for taking the time to make the videos and share your knowledge!!
I am a ways to getting to this level of build BUT I thoroughly enjoy watching your videos because I learn so much. Once I get my shop up and running and I'm at this level of builds, your videos are definitely going to be a resource for me to refer back to. Thanks for producing such awesome content. Take care and have a good one :D
I’m a beginner woodworker, which means I currently do projects for personal use, and I ve always wanted to learn how to do window cabinet doors. Thank you for the video, I now have the confidence and more importantly the knowledge.
I'd love to see that video about cutting the glass. I just watched two from two different experts on cutting glass, and the information was contradictory.
For any style and rail door, especially with inner “muntins”, aiming for a slightly oversized finish exterior dimension, to be trimmed to size and square after glue-up can be very forgiving, especially for inset doors. I used to calculate lengths of all parts needing coped, cut them to length but leave as wide as you like, then cope all in one setup with no worries of blowout. (Helpful with profiles that taper to zero at the inside edge against the glass.) These can then be ripped and/or jointed as you prefer to their finish widths before sticking, leaving the final router pass to be with the grain. We used to call the full length (usually vertical muntins) “glass bars” to differentiate from the shorter “muntins” in speaking with others in the trade.
I turned down a cousin’s replacement window job due to the multi-pane glass he wanted. Maybe I will try one to see how it goes. Thanks for the in-depth guide to this type of door/window. Good instructions.
Now that the windows on our '49 GI bill cottage have been changed out for double pane modern ones, I finally find out how to build new/ repair old window frames! (Inside on cabinet becomes outside of house, glazer's putty as bed and triangular cover for glass edge.) Plenty of old houses left in the world, thank you for all the woodworkers who can't or won't replace ogeed and beaded wood for ugly, flat steel and vinyl.
I've made these before and found it helpful to have the muntin that's parallel with the rails go all the way across so you can cut it to length with the rails instead of measuring.
Beautiful! I work mainly carpentry, and green wood on the side. I am very, very far away from being able to do any of this, but seeing a well equipped, stone cold professional at work is just amazing.
Excellent video James. Have you ever considered using Decra Led self adhesive led tape to make a design on the glass. Used it a lot back in the UK as leaded windows make for a great look inside and out and on cabinet doors. Cheers 🍻👍
how would I make the cope cuts on the ends of the stiles & rails only, so I could cut a slot between those cuts on both rails & stiles ? would appreciate your input.
May I suggest that if you install wooden strips to cover the glass on the back, that rubber gaskets are also used to avoid any possibility if rattling. If only using metal keepers to hold the glass this may look ugly, but behind wooden batons they are invisible, but very helpful in my opinion.
After seeing the video I looked at the doors in the cabinets of our townhouse build in 2005. Cabinets made by a cabinet company. Quality is decent. They used clear silicone caulk around the entire inset. FYI
well done. one of the best explanations i have seen on youtube. we used to make these on a spindle moulder and the hardest part as you say is setting the bit height correctly.
I built a set of glass pane doors once with a stile and rail set. I was surprised how wide my muntins ended up being, it looked a little awkward. So x2 on getting a set made for making muntins if you want it to look its best
Always cope first. Get a shaper with Freeborn tooling. The sticking will be jointed at the same time. Also power feeder is important. Also Amana makes an 1/8 flush cutter with bearing to clean up back rabbets. Then a one strike corner chisel.. The quality will amaze you vs routers up.
Fantastic tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃 Here in Brazil when you buy a wooden window to install in your house you already get a bag with the wood strips. So... I don't know, but I really like this idea. 😊 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Wonderful video as always. I'm trying to muster up the confidence to build glass panel double front doors and these little videos covering the same concepts involved in that kind of project really help me. Thank you! :)
I have a pair of 8 paned glass interior french doors I’m installing as pantry doors. I purchased them on FB Marketplace and each door has a broken (actually shattered) pane of glass. The construction is very complex. The muntins have the same appearance on both sides of the doors and seem to be solid in their construction. Meaning: No glazing or moulding used. The wood is maple and in very good shape. How can I replace the broken glass panels without taking apart the rails and stiles? Do you have a video on this? I should also mention that the panes have a very stretchy film on both sides of each pane. When they broke they didn’t break like normal glass would. It looks like a car windshield looks when it gets shattered. They’re all together because of the film on both sides. I’ve removed all the broken glass and have discovered that the glass is (was) quite thick. Approximately 3/16”. Not sure why that is. Anyway, I sure could use some help with this project. Any help you could offer would be appreciated. Thanks…….Joanie S.
0:46 "And in case of sudden loss of cabin pressure, the oxygen masks will drop from the ceiling..." As ususal, very helpful video - technique, safety and terminology. Thanks!
This is excellent! I imagine that it might be a similar, but more complex, process to make sash windows, which brings me to my request (actually, my groveling plea): would you consider doing a video series on how to make, step by step, traditional, historic double-hung sash windows, complete with the frames, lead counterbalances, etc? I just can’t stand the mass produced commercial windows that don’t look good but cost a fortune and which homeowners association covenants do not allow to be used on some historic homes. I couldn’t care less about the gimmicky double-glass argon filled insulating pane nonsense (my building codes do not prohibit single pane divided light windows). I want my 1920s home to look like it did when it was constructed, but I can’t afford to pay 40G for custom Marvins that are not entirely authentic for my period home. I know it would be quite a project making and installing 20 custom windows, but I’m ready and willing to take on that project. I haven’t found any resources whatsoever on window making. An instructional series that would preserve the knowledge of traditional window craft would fill an important gap in woodworking instruction currently crowded with how-to videos on making workbenches, tool chests, coffee tables and stick chairs. I recently made an English style Nicholson workbench, which as you know was originally a joiner’s workbench design. I’d like to put it to use for that purpose. Thanks.
Could this be done more simply (For those of us with limited tools)? I was thinking I could get a sheet of plywood, cut out the 4 holes, and rout the edges of each one, for the glass to set in, then cover with trim? Would that work? And maybe rout both sides, to make a double paned window?
if I were to make french doors with this method, do the cross members add support to the door or are they simply to support the glass? does this create a greater likelihood of warpage of the door in the long run? thanks, nice video
Great information as always, but I always do stepped shoulders this way you eliminate the need for rebating afterwards and cleaning out the corners with a chisel and looks a lot more clean lined and looks less of a DIY job and more professional
My house is old and has wood windows such as these with a putty glazing on the outside. They put an addition on in the 80s and used cheap aluminum sliding windows. Do you know of a place that does old fashioned solid wood windows such as the one here in this video? Great video!
Hi, I have searched the Internet for a video on making doors with muntings or divided georgian style glass. There is nothing! I would like to make a pair of traditional ledge and brace garage doors with 6 panes of glass at the top divided by muntings. I don't know if im safer to just build the top glass divisions using square stock and then routing the rabbits and profiles after the door has been glued up. Whats your thoughts? I was considering the easy and safer option of just using thinner timber to divide the windows and then just cut in beads on both sides. I wish there were more videos on this subject, it's a tricky thing because you could end up ruining a whole door if something goes wrong when routing after gluing up. Maybe I've just answered my own question as to why muntings should be run beforehand and fitted as complete profiles. Please do a video right now on this subject that answers all my questions! 😆
We have made many videos on that subject. I recommend visiting our main channel page and using the search feature (little magnifying glass) to find what you need: ua-cam.com/users/StumpyNubsvideos
Last time i did this with my round over stile/rail kit, the muntins came out way too wide, out of proportion. im finally brainstorming this more as i have another set to build again. The slot cutter of the stile bit in my freud kit is making a 7/16 deep groove for the interior panel. If i leave 3/16 of wood left on the back of my muntins between the glass, im left with this awkward 1-1/16" wide muntin with a 1/4 or 5/16" deep profile on the face. Not like your narrower shaker muntins here. Mine looked silly to me. Im going to remove the slot cutters off the stile bit and run my muntins at a more asthetic width, maybe 3/4". then set up a 3/4 mortise bit and route out a shallower mortise for the back of the muntins. Or i need an arrangement of smaller diameter slot cutters to swap out
Would this be adequate muntin construction for an exterior door or window? It looks similar to old 1920s window muntin construction to me, but I'm not sure if they used mortise and tenons for muntins back then.
James I have notice those of us woodworkers from the northeast use the term stick when talking about stiles and rails. I have been in Construction and a wood worker for over 40 years and until I started watching UA-cam I had never heard that term "stick". Do you know thinking on that term? or origin of it? before you ask, I dont have an alternate term to use. We have always used just stile and rail and cope and end cut. I don't have an issue with the term. It is as good as any but I am a bit of a history buff as are you and like to know the background and history. The last time I asked this question I think I offended them and that is not the point. Also, I really enjoy your videos. I learn something new in all of them. Cool tools is amazing as well. I would have never known about most of those gadgets if not for you. Plus I love you humor. Please don't dial that back. It is refreshing
In real life, nobody really says "I'm going to stick these stiles." In a modern workshop you are more likely to hear "I'll rout the stiles." Or something general like that. (You said you say "cope" and "end cuts"- but those are one in the same. You "cope" the ends of the rails.) Sticking is an old term that pre-dates modern routers and techniques. Perhaps it is related to making "a stick of moulding" (a long, narrow piece). Moulding hand planes were used to create those profiles while the piece of wood was held in a "sticking board" to support it on the benchtop. (tinyshopww.blogspot.com/2017/08/made-sticking-board.html) I suspect that is the origin of the term used in cabinetry. As I said, people these days don't usually use "sticking" as a verb, but the frame joinery made by modern router bit sets is still commonly called "cope and stick". That's why I used the term in the video.
I have several munitions that have been damaged by squirrels that got into a sun porch and chewed through the mutnons while trying to get out. Can you suggest a way to replicate and replace or splice please. Thank you in advance.
The tip to create a custom push block to rout the muntins is "Worth the price of admission." Oh wait, we are getting all this GREAT info for free. :-) THANKS!
@@TaylerMade yeah. I really ment that response for Duane. I'd much rather use router bits than mess around with making or buying complicated planes. But to each his own. I kinda get why people like non-power tools... But not really. I do like using scrapers vs sanding when applicable.
Hi James - I've complimented you in the past on the very high quality of your videos, and this one is no exception. However, I'm going to respectfully disagree with the logic of not fitting the glass "permanently". The chance of a pane of glass breaking over a lifetime of use is rare -- certainly less frequent than the number of times I would open the cabinet door and say: "Dang, the interior of this glass door sure looks ugly!" It seems a pity to rout out that beautiful interior wood frame. I would argue that the glass be mounted "semi-permanently" without any routing. You could then -- under normal circumstances -- appreciate a high-quality finished interior over decades of use. In the rare event that a glass pane did break, you could always remove it and carefully rout out the wood surrounding that single pane, as you have described, in order to replace it. (I do acknowledge that this suggestion -- of mounting the glass semi-permanently -- raises issues about the sequence of finishing of the project surface, since the final finishing would have to be done before the glass was mounted.) My second alternative would be to fabricate nice removable frame inserts to cover the glass on the interior, as you have already suggested. Anything except the bare metal tabs! ... Just my two cents worth.
You would be surprised how often someone breaks one by placing something inside the cabinet that sticks out a little farther than they thought, then shutting the door on it. Sure, it's rare, but it happens. And while you may not like the look of the glazer's points in the video, the inside can be made to look very nice with mitered strips of wood. This can even create a pleasing profile on the back side that is superior, in my opinion, the the appearance of the standard square backs of the grooved muntins.... But to each his own :)
@@StumpyNubs Fair enough - I agree the latter is a good compromise. Keep the excellent videos coming! Hey -- if the Habs make it all the way this year, would you mind to show a Canadiens mug, just for one video? (Haha ... after all, it's been nearly 30 years!)
@@StumpyNubs That might be a tall order, since I live in Thailand and I see that much of this merchandise is only available on pre-order ... for after the Habs' victory ;-). For sure they'll win, since this team is nearly a carbon copy of 1993. I'll see what I can do ...
@@retiree1033 It could be, or there's some minutia that describes the difference. One might be for frame-internal separators, the other for separators for the frames themselves; something like that.
Dude...not sure just where it happened but somewhere along in here. you stopped speaking English and went into some weird-ass alien-speak that normal humans just don't unnerstan.... Munchkins gettin stomped by mullions who apparently owe Harry Styles some bodacious bullions cuz his bits were sticking outta the Munsters? uhhhh....wanna try that again, and leave the Greys at home this time?
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Related videos►
Part 1- Simple glass doors: ua-cam.com/video/iWMEE01eDgM/v-deo.html
Part 2- Divided glass doors: (This Video)
Part 3- Choosing and cutting glass (Coming soon)
How to make cope & stick door frame- ua-cam.com/video/jaQgm0rZ87U/v-deo.html
(We may get a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links.)
Subscribe (free) to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal e-Magazine► www.stumpynubs.com/
Could you make a video on how to make big movie poster frames with curved edges?
Did you ever make a part 3? I'm not seeing it, thanks!
I’ve just spent another seven minutes watching a craftsman share his knowledge with no hint of condescension 🌞
WOW - Thank you for this! You are an excellent teacher and I greatly appreciate the clarity of your explanations and accompanying footage!
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
What he said.
I love that push block Idea. Thank you.
James I have learned so much from you all I can do is say thank you for your time and talent. Peace be with you!
Once again your videos came through and helped me complete a job. I am currently working on my third full kitchen and the client wants 8 glass doors that until now I had no idea how to do. Thank you for taking the time to make the videos and share your knowledge!!
I am a ways to getting to this level of build BUT I thoroughly enjoy watching your videos because I learn so much. Once I get my shop up and running and I'm at this level of builds, your videos are definitely going to be a resource for me to refer back to. Thanks for producing such awesome content. Take care and have a good one :D
I’m a beginner woodworker, which means I currently do projects for personal use, and I ve always wanted to learn how to do window cabinet doors. Thank you for the video, I now have the confidence and more importantly the knowledge.
I'd love to see that video about cutting the glass. I just watched two from two different experts on cutting glass, and the information was contradictory.
Best woodworking channel on UA-cam hands down!
Was Part 3 of this ever released? I can't find it on the channel. So far a great series, much like all your other videos, Mr. Nubs!
I'm also interested in Part 3!
For any style and rail door, especially with inner “muntins”, aiming for a slightly oversized finish exterior dimension, to be trimmed to size and square after glue-up can be very forgiving, especially for inset doors.
I used to calculate lengths of all parts needing coped, cut them to length but leave as wide as you like, then cope all in one setup with no worries of blowout. (Helpful with profiles that taper to zero at the inside edge against the glass.) These can then be ripped and/or jointed as you prefer to their finish widths before sticking, leaving the final router pass to be with the grain.
We used to call the full length (usually vertical muntins) “glass bars” to differentiate from the shorter “muntins” in speaking with others in the trade.
I turned down a cousin’s replacement window job due to the multi-pane glass he wanted. Maybe I will try one to see how it goes. Thanks for the in-depth guide to this type of door/window. Good instructions.
I don’t know, James. I still think it looks difficult. But I bet it’s rewarding.
Now that the windows on our '49 GI bill cottage have been changed out for double pane modern ones, I finally find out how to build new/ repair old window frames! (Inside on cabinet becomes outside of house, glazer's putty as bed and triangular cover for glass edge.) Plenty of old houses left in the world, thank you for all the woodworkers who can't or won't replace ogeed and beaded wood for ugly, flat steel and vinyl.
Hi James!
Did I miss the 3rd installment? I can't find it.
I am an architect and I am learning more from UA-camrs like you than my practice or college. Thankyou.
I've made these before and found it helpful to have the muntin that's parallel with the rails go all the way across so you can cut it to length with the rails instead of measuring.
Once again, concise, well organized, and intelligent proof of your mastery of your craft. Always informative and welcome videos from you.
You have a way of explaining woodworking that I understand and delivered graciously.
I am making kitchen cabinet doors today. This video REALLY helped. Thanks for making it.
Beautiful!
I work mainly carpentry, and green wood on the side. I am very, very far away from being able to do any of this, but seeing a well equipped, stone cold professional at work is just amazing.
Yes I learned how to do that style of door 23yrs ago At cabinet shop
Thanks. I really had no idea it was so complicated but your video instructions are excellent!
Excellent video James. Have you ever considered using Decra Led self adhesive led tape to make a design on the glass. Used it a lot back in the UK as leaded windows make for a great look inside and out and on cabinet doors. Cheers 🍻👍
Good video. I've been wanting to build a windowed door to my office to allow light in.
All good info but I cope the ends before shaping the edges. I eliminates the tear out issue 100%.
super helpful thanks bro!
Thats a heck of clever idea to make those doors, every time you come up with the best of teaching skills you earned it my friend👌💯
how would I make the cope cuts on the ends of the stiles & rails only, so I could cut a slot between those cuts on both rails & stiles ? would appreciate your input.
Great video, I hope to make a door with glass panels. This will be very helpful
May I suggest that if you install wooden strips to cover the glass on the back, that rubber gaskets are also used to avoid any possibility if rattling. If only using metal keepers to hold the glass this may look ugly, but behind wooden batons they are invisible, but very helpful in my opinion.
After seeing the video I looked at the doors in the cabinets of our townhouse build in 2005. Cabinets made by a cabinet company. Quality is decent. They used clear silicone caulk around the entire inset. FYI
well done. one of the best explanations i have seen on youtube. we used to make these on a spindle moulder and the hardest part as you say is setting the bit height correctly.
You are a Master and I love you. God bless you
Thanks for sharing with us James, great information.🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👋👋
I built a set of glass pane doors once with a stile and rail set. I was surprised how wide my muntins ended up being, it looked a little awkward. So x2 on getting a set made for making muntins if you want it to look its best
The cherry door in this video was made with a regular stile and rail set, not a specialized muntin set.
Always cope first. Get a shaper with Freeborn tooling. The sticking will be jointed at the same time. Also power feeder is important. Also Amana makes an 1/8 flush cutter with bearing to clean up back rabbets. Then a one strike corner chisel.. The quality will amaze you vs routers up.
Fantastic tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃
Here in Brazil when you buy a wooden window to install in your house you already get a bag with the wood strips. So... I don't know, but I really like this idea. 😊
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks for the tip making window sash and was wondering how to do the small pieces and keep it flat and straight
Wonderful video as always. I'm trying to muster up the confidence to build glass panel double front doors and these little videos covering the same concepts involved in that kind of project really help me. Thank you! :)
This is superb content. You were born to teach!
I have a pair of 8 paned glass interior french doors I’m installing as pantry doors. I purchased them on FB Marketplace and each door has a broken (actually shattered) pane of glass. The construction is very complex. The muntins have the same appearance on both sides of the doors and seem to be solid in their construction. Meaning: No glazing or moulding used. The wood is maple and in very good shape. How can I replace the broken glass panels without taking apart the rails and stiles? Do you have a video on this?
I should also mention that the panes have a very stretchy film on both sides of each pane. When they broke they didn’t break like normal glass would. It looks like a car windshield looks when it gets shattered. They’re all together because of the film on both sides. I’ve removed all the broken glass and have discovered that the glass is (was) quite thick. Approximately 3/16”. Not sure why that is. Anyway, I sure could use some help with this project. Any help you could offer would be appreciated. Thanks…….Joanie S.
I can't make these until my turboencabulator arrives some time next week.
Again, great video. You make these intimidating doors look like even I can make them.
Fantastic, just what I need
very nice video
was a part 3 to this very informative series?
It seems like you've been coming out with videos more often; thanks for the extra content!
Another great instructional video! Thanks - You always make it look so easy!
thanks
Wow 😲😲 !!
Holy Mountains of MUNTINS 😁😁 !!!
Look what STUMPY just built 👌👌 !!!!
Thanks for the helpful information
0:46 "And in case of sudden loss of cabin pressure, the oxygen masks will drop from the ceiling..." As ususal, very helpful video - technique, safety and terminology. Thanks!
This is excellent! I imagine that it might be a similar, but more complex, process to make sash windows, which brings me to my request (actually, my groveling plea): would you consider doing a video series on how to make, step by step, traditional, historic double-hung sash windows, complete with the frames, lead counterbalances, etc? I just can’t stand the mass produced commercial windows that don’t look good but cost a fortune and which homeowners association covenants do not allow to be used on some historic homes. I couldn’t care less about the gimmicky double-glass argon filled insulating pane nonsense (my building codes do not prohibit single pane divided light windows). I want my 1920s home to look like it did when it was constructed, but I can’t afford to pay 40G for custom Marvins that are not entirely authentic for my period home. I know it would be quite a project making and installing 20 custom windows, but I’m ready and willing to take on that project. I haven’t found any resources whatsoever on window making. An instructional series that would preserve the knowledge of traditional window craft would fill an important gap in woodworking instruction currently crowded with how-to videos on making workbenches, tool chests, coffee tables and stick chairs. I recently made an English style Nicholson workbench, which as you know was originally a joiner’s workbench design. I’d like to put it to use for that purpose. Thanks.
As a restorationist, I also want to learn how to make wooden windows!
Great stuff as usual James
Could this be done more simply (For those of us with limited tools)? I was thinking I could get a sheet of plywood, cut out the 4 holes, and rout the edges of each one, for the glass to set in, then cover with trim? Would that work? And maybe rout both sides, to make a double paned window?
Fantastic as always! That router set up is sweet :)
Love your work
if I were to make french doors with this method, do the cross members add support to the door or are they simply to support the glass? does this create a greater likelihood of warpage of the door in the long run? thanks, nice video
Very Nice James!
Great information as always, but I always do stepped shoulders this way you eliminate the need for rebating afterwards and cleaning out the corners with a chisel and looks a lot more clean lined and looks less of a DIY job and more professional
My house is old and has wood windows such as these with a putty glazing on the outside. They put an addition on in the 80s and used cheap aluminum sliding windows. Do you know of a place that does old fashioned solid wood windows such as the one here in this video? Great video!
Very helpful info!
Like your detailed video
Awesome video!
Awesome video! Thanks...
Hi, I have searched the Internet for a video on making doors with muntings or divided georgian style glass. There is nothing! I would like to make a pair of traditional ledge and brace garage doors with 6 panes of glass at the top divided by muntings. I don't know if im safer to just build the top glass divisions using square stock and then routing the rabbits and profiles after the door has been glued up. Whats your thoughts? I was considering the easy and safer option of just using thinner timber to divide the windows and then just cut in beads on both sides. I wish there were more videos on this subject, it's a tricky thing because you could end up ruining a whole door if something goes wrong when routing after gluing up. Maybe I've just answered my own question as to why muntings should be run beforehand and fitted as complete profiles. Please do a video right now on this subject that answers all my questions! 😆
Would you do (or link to) a video on chisel and plane blade sharpening. Which of the recommended supplier’s stone sets do you recommend?
We have made many videos on that subject. I recommend visiting our main channel page and using the search feature (little magnifying glass) to find what you need: ua-cam.com/users/StumpyNubsvideos
Is part 3 ever coming?
More great info.
Last time i did this with my round over stile/rail kit, the muntins came out way too wide, out of proportion. im finally brainstorming this more as i have another set to build again. The slot cutter of the stile bit in my freud kit is making a 7/16 deep groove for the interior panel. If i leave 3/16 of wood left on the back of my muntins between the glass, im left with this awkward 1-1/16" wide muntin with a 1/4 or 5/16" deep profile on the face. Not like your narrower shaker muntins here. Mine looked silly to me. Im going to remove the slot cutters off the stile bit and run my muntins at a more asthetic width, maybe 3/4". then set up a 3/4 mortise bit and route out a shallower mortise for the back of the muntins. Or i need an arrangement of smaller diameter slot cutters to swap out
Would this be adequate muntin construction for an exterior door or window? It looks similar to old 1920s window muntin construction to me, but I'm not sure if they used mortise and tenons for muntins back then.
Would this be the same method used when crafting an interior french door set?
Could you please link to the router bits that you use?
James
I have notice those of us woodworkers from the northeast use the term stick when talking about stiles and rails. I have been in Construction and a wood worker for over 40 years and until I started watching UA-cam I had never heard that term "stick". Do you know thinking on that term? or origin of it? before you ask, I dont have an alternate term to use. We have always used just stile and rail and cope and end cut. I don't have an issue with the term. It is as good as any but I am a bit of a history buff as are you and like to know the background and history. The last time I asked this question I think I offended them and that is not the point.
Also, I really enjoy your videos. I learn something new in all of them. Cool tools is amazing as well. I would have never known about most of those gadgets if not for you.
Plus I love you humor. Please don't dial that back. It is refreshing
In real life, nobody really says "I'm going to stick these stiles." In a modern workshop you are more likely to hear "I'll rout the stiles." Or something general like that. (You said you say "cope" and "end cuts"- but those are one in the same. You "cope" the ends of the rails.) Sticking is an old term that pre-dates modern routers and techniques. Perhaps it is related to making "a stick of moulding" (a long, narrow piece). Moulding hand planes were used to create those profiles while the piece of wood was held in a "sticking board" to support it on the benchtop. (tinyshopww.blogspot.com/2017/08/made-sticking-board.html) I suspect that is the origin of the term used in cabinetry. As I said, people these days don't usually use "sticking" as a verb, but the frame joinery made by modern router bit sets is still commonly called "cope and stick". That's why I used the term in the video.
I have several munitions that have been damaged by squirrels that got into a sun porch and chewed through the mutnons while trying to get out.
Can you suggest a way to replicate and replace or splice please. Thank you in advance.
The tip to create a custom push block to rout the muntins is "Worth the price of admission." Oh wait, we are getting all this GREAT info for free. :-) THANKS!
Just tried to donate.. ordered a plan, as that's as close as you can get I guess.
Thanks or sharing would you be able to share the router bit model and number? Or the purchase link please ?
Excellent!!!0
Did you ever make part 3? I went through your video history and haven't found it. And if it's there, the description doesn't show a link to part 3.
Not yet. I held off because I'm not sure a video about glass cutting will do very well on UA-cam these days...
Can you provide the router set part number and supplier please
Was there a third video?
James can you share the source of the "Rain drop" glass you used in the office project? I need some of this to repair a cabinet in my home.
I don't recall, but there are lots of glass companies online that will ship seeded glass.
Where is the 3rd video? I can’t find it.
Can you show how to build these with out power tools?
you will need specially made hand planes
@@TaylerMade you are right. And they probably cost a small fortune.
@@dougprentice1363 if you have some old chisels you can make your own. a bit fiddly and time consuming though.
@@TaylerMade yeah. I really ment that response for Duane. I'd much rather use router bits than mess around with making or buying complicated planes. But to each his own. I kinda get why people like non-power tools... But not really. I do like using scrapers vs sanding when applicable.
You my boy blue
What happened to Part 3?
I thought it was pronounced mutton, ya know like you make BBQ with,.And it's really good!
As soon as I saw all those tools, I’m like why?
LOL Not close to this yet
I have a lots of tools but I’m afraid of use them :/
Whats you're favorite species of wood?
Thumbs up to crush a troll.
Hi James - I've complimented you in the past on the very high quality of your videos, and this one is no exception. However, I'm going to respectfully disagree with the logic of not fitting the glass "permanently". The chance of a pane of glass breaking over a lifetime of use is rare -- certainly less frequent than the number of times I would open the cabinet door and say: "Dang, the interior of this glass door sure looks ugly!" It seems a pity to rout out that beautiful interior wood frame. I would argue that the glass be mounted "semi-permanently" without any routing. You could then -- under normal circumstances -- appreciate a high-quality finished interior over decades of use.
In the rare event that a glass pane did break, you could always remove it and carefully rout out the wood surrounding that single pane, as you have described, in order to replace it. (I do acknowledge that this suggestion -- of mounting the glass semi-permanently -- raises issues about the sequence of finishing of the project surface, since the final finishing would have to be done before the glass was mounted.) My second alternative would be to fabricate nice removable frame inserts to cover the glass on the interior, as you have already suggested. Anything except the bare metal tabs! ... Just my two cents worth.
You would be surprised how often someone breaks one by placing something inside the cabinet that sticks out a little farther than they thought, then shutting the door on it. Sure, it's rare, but it happens. And while you may not like the look of the glazer's points in the video, the inside can be made to look very nice with mitered strips of wood. This can even create a pleasing profile on the back side that is superior, in my opinion, the the appearance of the standard square backs of the grooved muntins.... But to each his own :)
@@StumpyNubs Fair enough - I agree the latter is a good compromise. Keep the excellent videos coming! Hey -- if the Habs make it all the way this year, would you mind to show a Canadiens mug, just for one video? (Haha ... after all, it's been nearly 30 years!)
@@jsnuk3556 - If you send me one. But I would wait and see if I were you. They have to get past Tampa (or the Islanders).
@@StumpyNubs That might be a tall order, since I live in Thailand and I see that much of this merchandise is only available on pre-order ... for after the Habs' victory ;-). For sure they'll win, since this team is nearly a carbon copy of 1993. I'll see what I can do ...
@@jsnuk3556 - No need to bother. They aren't going to win :)
Never heard the term "Muntins" ... in the UK they're called Astragals ... good clear video though.
Mullions & transoms to me, also in the UK. I can never remember which is vertical & which is horizontal though.
I've always known them as muntins, maybe Astragals is a regional thing.
@@retiree1033 It could be, or there's some minutia that describes the difference. One might be for frame-internal separators, the other for separators for the frames themselves; something like that.
Not much; what's a muntin with you?
Haha muntin stock... Sounds like a cut of lamb meat
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Dude...not sure just where it happened but somewhere along in here. you stopped speaking English and went into some weird-ass alien-speak that normal humans just don't unnerstan.... Munchkins gettin stomped by mullions who apparently owe Harry Styles some bodacious bullions cuz his bits were sticking outta the Munsters? uhhhh....wanna try that again, and leave the Greys at home this time?
I'm not sure if you are joking or not...