Looks great. Very simple and does the job. I always find it funny when theoretical woodworkers come to videos like they'd be doing some handtool Japanese joints for this stuff.
Very nice job, the external side of the window should be painted 3 or 4 mm onto the glass to seal it from the weather, painting the glass then cleaning it off again with a blade will leave it open to eventual water ingress and speed up the rotting of the timber. thanks for the video.
Thanks. It's hard to see in the video, but I did try to leave a small line on paint on the glass. I agree leaving a larger boarder is desired, but those windows were so small to work with it was really hard for me to get a good angle for either painting or scraping.
I dont get it, I think its barier in langagures. Can you explain more? I for now understand that you need paint glass and leave it without cleaning with blade or anything?
Good job. Too bad you didn't cut the glass individually. It's so magical when you see a distorted reflection in sash or lead panel windows due to a slight unevenness in the frame of the glass.
By curiosity, why is window glazing putty is prefered as something like a silicon window caulk ? Doesn't putty end up cracking and need to be replaced every couple years ? I just don't see the benefit of making windows this way. By the way, I know nothing about windows, just asking.
Glass on wood frames is always set in a bed of glazing. There are a few different types, but the putty is traditional. Don't confuse a glazing putty with window caulk, which is used to seal windows (but not bed the glass).
Thanks for the feedback. I was just shooting for a good overview. It’s hard to make good, detailed videos-takes a lot more work than people realize. However, I think my more recent videos are getting better. LOL!
I would be interested in how you set-up everything so everything up accurately (so rails and stiles line up properly). I am thinking of using the Rockler set (Item #22605), the Amana set (55340), or the MCLS set you mentioned (which looks to have good written directions. Learning by seeing and reading/watching seems to work best for me. Video was great though.
@@brianweekley5700 I thought the directions were pretty good. Were these the ones you used? www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/graphics2/Technical_Manual.pdf Did you reinforce with dowels?I am considering that. How are the holding up?
Sorry if I missed it -- How are the mullions attached at the cross-sections? Are they small enough that the cope, due, and pressure from the outside is enough to hold them together?
@@brianweekley5700Thanks for the reply! Yeah, I found the MLCS pdf instructions. Looks like you can use dowels, brads, or a small screw if you need the extra support for a bigger window. Thanks so much!
This is explained at 4 minutes in the video. You wouldn't cutoff the back part of the mullions. This would leave the individual recesses to glaze in the individual panes.
You are correct. Traditional wooden windows are typically made using mortise, through-tenons, and pegs. I made these with a sash window router bit set instead. These are glued together and the joints are strengthened with either screws or dowels. Overall, I was happy with how they came out and I think they are very adequate for sheds, barns, chicken coops, storm sashes, etc. These are made the same as Northview barn sash windows: northviewwindows.net/index.cfm?pid=17&pageTitle=Wood-Barn-Sash. However, if I were making them for a house, I might still prefer mortise and tenon construction.
Just finishing first of 3 6 pane windows for garage. I agree with you and will use screws or dowels on the next. I see no sacrifice in strength and alignment will be easier. Thank you for your video
Great wood work. Excellent tutorial. But video was a bit painful. Absolutely no one prefers reading words on a video. That's not the end of the world. Watching someone push long board after long board thru machines at real speed is almost as painful as watching paint dry. Choosing to watch video at 1.5x speed is a very simple & productive fix for that. Problem is, then our reading chore wizzes by way too fast.
Thank you and I appreciate the feedback. I'm not a professional UA-camr--I just do this for fun. However, if you check out my more recent videos, I think you'll find that I've already corrected your suggestions.
Nice job Brian. Would you tell me what particular brand router but set you used here? (I ask because I believe that there are slight variations in the profiles)Many thanks.
That was a water-based latex. However, I think it would be similar for oil. Glass is a nice smooth surface to scrape paint off of. I used a Stanley 28-550 scraper. You want to leave about 1/8" border of paint on the glass to seal the wood-glass interface.
Thank you for your help. My windows have been rotting for a couple years now, every quote I get wants to charge me thousands to replace them, this is really inspiring me to build my own: Thanks again!
Keep in mind these were two small windows for a chicken coop. Certainly, you could make old-style windows like these for a house, but it will be a lot of work and not as energy efficient with single-pane glass. If you have an older house, you might want to include some storm sash windows like these: ua-cam.com/video/jey8xhcHxIE/v-deo.html
Thanks for the question. I used the Window Sash router bit set from MLCS Woodworking (#8894). If you go to their website, you can download a PDF of the instructions. That has some diagrams and explanation of how they are setup and used.
Thanks for your comment. I agree and normally I would glaze in individual panes. However, like I stated in the video, these were small windows intended for a chicken coop. It’s easier to clean the inside with the single pane (and the chickens don’t seem to mind). :) ua-cam.com/video/mEk-Es2sjRU/v-deo.html
@@brianweekley5700 But you also didn't glaze the part that would likely be facing outside elements? And that is also the side that will be getting the dirtiest, so it will still need to be cleaned pane by pane.
Jack Elliott Vermeer Actually, if you look at 6:15, all the muntins were glazed with putty on the outside. Yes, I could have used 6 individual panes, but for these small window, using a single pane was just easier.
Not sure what additional information you are looking for? The two router bits shown cut profiles that mate perfectly together to make the window joints.
You did see these were simple windows I made for a chicken coop, yes? They came out great despite not being conventional. It was not intended to be a full-on instructional video, but thanks for letting me know how you feel!
Wow! Really? I’m the one that sees the windows. Besides, it was good practice for other windows I needed to make. The point was to show how windows can be made.
I am all in on the sander to set the glass ! Working on a "craftsman home " built in 1939 and your video is appreciated !
Thank you!
@@brianweekley5700 I subbed to your channel... lots of good content for me. Former rancher, now restoring a craftsman home (1939).
Thanks. Sounds like a fantastic project!
Sander + cloth is a very good idea!
Thanks!
Looks great. Very simple and does the job. I always find it funny when theoretical woodworkers come to videos like they'd be doing some handtool Japanese joints for this stuff.
Very true!
I like the technique to vibrate the putty in.
skilled, gifted and talented you are... thank you so much for sharing!
Thank you for the nice comment!
Good old Dap 33. The key on making these is the router bits. Instead of screws, the frame could be mortise and tenon, or doweled.
Agree. Since these windows were so small (and for a chicken coop), screws were fine for this purpose.
Very nice job, the external side of the window should be painted 3 or 4 mm onto the glass to seal it from the weather, painting the glass then cleaning it off again with a blade will leave it open to eventual water ingress and speed up the rotting of the timber. thanks for the video.
Thanks. It's hard to see in the video, but I did try to leave a small line on paint on the glass. I agree leaving a larger boarder is desired, but those windows were so small to work with it was really hard for me to get a good angle for either painting or scraping.
Small sash brushes work well for small windows, you still did a cracking job on the windows, enjoyed the video.
I dont get it, I think its barier in langagures. Can you explain more? I for now understand that you need paint glass and leave it without cleaning with blade or anything?
There can be only one true window maker
LOL. Not sure who that is, but thanks for the comment.
Thanks. It would be useful to know how much expansion space to leave between the glass and the wood frame.
I generally cut the glass so there is about a 1/8 inch (3 mm) gap around the window. Thanks for your question.
This is true craftmanship. Nuff said.
That is kind of you to say. Thanks.
Good job.
Thank you!
Very good job !!!
Thank you.
Thanks for the video. Difficult to find these on UA-cam. How did you learn to do this? Have you ever thought of using pocket screws?
Pocket screws are good for face frames. But not every thing.
This was amazing. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you. I appreciate that.
Good job. Too bad you didn't cut the glass individually. It's so magical when you see a distorted reflection in sash or lead panel windows due to a slight unevenness in the frame of the glass.
Yes, totally agree. However, these were for a chicken coop and I doubt the chickens care (LOL).
Well done!. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing. Careful so you don't lose a few fingers pushing those little pieces through....
Thanks. That's why I use a push stick--still have all of my fingers! LOL
By curiosity, why is window glazing putty is prefered as something like a silicon window caulk ? Doesn't putty end up cracking and need to be replaced every couple years ? I just don't see the benefit of making windows this way. By the way, I know nothing about windows, just asking.
Glass on wood frames is always set in a bed of glazing. There are a few different types, but the putty is traditional. Don't confuse a glazing putty with window caulk, which is used to seal windows (but not bed the glass).
Just a bit more close up detail of each step and showing how all fit together would make this video perfect.
Thanks for the feedback. I was just shooting for a good overview. It’s hard to make good, detailed videos-takes a lot more work than people realize. However, I think my more recent videos are getting better. LOL!
@@brianweekley5700 it's great content, I'm really enjoying it. Thanks buddy
I would be interested in how you set-up everything so everything up accurately (so rails and stiles line up properly). I am thinking of using the Rockler set (Item #22605), the Amana set (55340), or the MCLS set you mentioned (which looks to have good written directions. Learning by seeing and reading/watching seems to work best for me. Video was great though.
I just followed the instructions provided by MLCS and it turned out very nicely. The matching, two piece router set worked well for me.
@@brianweekley5700 I thought the directions were pretty good. Were these the ones you used?
www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/graphics2/Technical_Manual.pdf
Did you reinforce with dowels?I am considering that. How are the holding up?
Yes, those are the directions I used and I did reinforce them with dowels as shown in my video. The windows are holding up great.
Sorry if I missed it -- How are the mullions attached at the cross-sections? Are they small enough that the cope, due, and pressure from the outside is enough to hold them together?
The pieces fit together (the profile of one fits around the other) and they are also glued.
@@brianweekley5700Thanks for the reply! Yeah, I found the MLCS pdf instructions. Looks like you can use dowels, brads, or a small screw if you need the extra support for a bigger window.
Thanks so much!
so many mullions, this guy is a mullionaire!
Thanks, that’s funny! LOL
fantastic
Thank you.
What would you have to do if you want 4 separate panes? Thank you
This is explained at 4 minutes in the video. You wouldn't cutoff the back part of the mullions. This would leave the individual recesses to glaze in the individual panes.
hello dear, i would b glad if u could share me the bits tht u used in ur crafting, i really love da way u create the joinery, its a masterpiece
Thank you. The bits are provided in the video description (MLCS #8894)
Hi Brian, What kind of wood did you use to make the windows?
Made of pine.
Interesting. Others use mortise and tenon on all joints and full length muntins with a lap joint where they cross
You are correct. Traditional wooden windows are typically made using mortise, through-tenons, and pegs. I made these with a sash window router bit set instead. These are glued together and the joints are strengthened with either screws or dowels. Overall, I was happy with how they came out and I think they are very adequate for sheds, barns, chicken coops, storm sashes, etc. These are made the same as Northview barn sash windows: northviewwindows.net/index.cfm?pid=17&pageTitle=Wood-Barn-Sash. However, if I were making them for a house, I might still prefer mortise and tenon construction.
Just finishing first of 3 6 pane windows for garage. I agree with you and will use screws or dowels on the next. I see no sacrifice in strength and alignment will be easier. Thank you for your video
I don’t have a router: is there any place I can buy mullion strips already routered out?
I would think the mullion profile needs to match the profile of the rails and stiles. Sorry, I don’t know where to separately buy them. Good luck!
What kind of wood did you use,
White pine. Milled from a tree in my backyard!
Great wood work. Excellent tutorial. But video was a bit painful.
Absolutely no one prefers reading words on a video. That's not the end of the world. Watching someone push long board after long board thru machines at real speed is almost as painful as watching paint dry. Choosing to watch video at 1.5x speed is a very simple & productive fix for that. Problem is, then our reading chore wizzes by way too fast.
Thank you and I appreciate the feedback. I'm not a professional UA-camr--I just do this for fun. However, if you check out my more recent videos, I think you'll find that I've already corrected your suggestions.
Nice job Brian. Would you tell me what particular brand router but set you used here? (I ask because I believe that there are slight variations in the profiles)Many thanks.
Thank you. The router bit set I used is provided in the video description.
Ah, so it is! I was obviously distracted by the visuals! Thanks again.
I can't figure out how you lifted the paint so easily: Did you use a liquid mask for the painting?
Just a razor blade against the glass peels it right up.
Does that work whether it's oil/water or acrylic based paint?
That was a water-based latex. However, I think it would be similar for oil. Glass is a nice smooth surface to scrape paint off of. I used a Stanley 28-550 scraper. You want to leave about 1/8" border of paint on the glass to seal the wood-glass interface.
Thank you for your help. My windows have been rotting for a couple years now, every quote I get wants to charge me thousands to replace them, this is really inspiring me to build my own: Thanks again!
Keep in mind these were two small windows for a chicken coop. Certainly, you could make old-style windows like these for a house, but it will be a lot of work and not as energy efficient with single-pane glass. If you have an older house, you might want to include some storm sash windows like these: ua-cam.com/video/jey8xhcHxIE/v-deo.html
How did you make the jig for the cross pieces? The coping bit will only make part of the profile.
Thanks for the question. I used the Window Sash router bit set from MLCS Woodworking (#8894). If you go to their website, you can download a PDF of the instructions. That has some diagrams and explanation of how they are setup and used.
Thanks, I understand now. The coping bit I have is different from this set.
Oh no they were looking so beautiful until you stuck a single pane of glass over all the windows. Why didn't you cut the glass into four pieces?
Thanks for your comment. I agree and normally I would glaze in individual panes. However, like I stated in the video, these were small windows intended for a chicken coop. It’s easier to clean the inside with the single pane (and the chickens don’t seem to mind). :) ua-cam.com/video/mEk-Es2sjRU/v-deo.html
@@brianweekley5700 But you also didn't glaze the part that would likely be facing outside elements? And that is also the side that will be getting the dirtiest, so it will still need to be cleaned pane by pane.
Jack Elliott Vermeer Actually, if you look at 6:15, all the muntins were glazed with putty on the outside. Yes, I could have used 6 individual panes, but for these small window, using a single pane was just easier.
I initially thought the same thing but then realized "oh, it's going in a chicken coop"
Not as informative as the title suggests because it does not show how the joints are made and fit together.
Not sure what additional information you are looking for? The two router bits shown cut profiles that mate perfectly together to make the window joints.
Not impressed, many details were left out. Glazing was a mess extremely novice like.
You did see these were simple windows I made for a chicken coop, yes? They came out great despite not being conventional. It was not intended to be a full-on instructional video, but thanks for letting me know how you feel!
Pres
OK, thanks
Este señor trabaja muy lento me durmió su video
Muntins
LOL. Yes sir, you are correct. Thanks for pointing out my typo!
Sorry, but such windows for chicken coop? Isn't it too much? Will they lay golden eggs? Man, they are just chicken!
Wow! Really? I’m the one that sees the windows. Besides, it was good practice for other windows I needed to make. The point was to show how windows can be made.
I'm useless to see you cut a piece of wood or sing it with machinery every world can do, you should explain how to assemble the window, measures
Rather obtuse.
OK, but some constructive criticism would be appreciated.