SD premium is the best 11$ a month I’ve spent. Glad to have so much knowledge right at my fingertips and glad to support you and the great work you’re doing. Thank you for doing all you do
@@ScannerDanner these old Jeeps are so reliable especially the inline 4-liter ignition coils going bad for being the running problem it's almost worth just always having an ignition coil on you to slap one in 9 out of 10 times it's usually going to be the ignition coil on these if you're getting fuel
Reminds when I picked my s10 up from a complete new brake line set install. Paid, got my keys and went out to start it. Very noticeable exhaust leak. Went back and was told he had to pull o2 sensor to route line and it now leaked at sensor base. Not sure why nobody mentioned it to me up front
That really puts you in an awkward spot. I stopped doing side work for cash several years ago after a couple of jobs went sideways like this one. Now I just help about family and friends for swapped labor or dinner.
I had to stop on one car. Anything you touched would break of fail. Had to pull the engine up when the front cover for the oil sump broke. You can't change it unless the oil pan is removed.
QUICK DIAG with a test light & ASD system understanding for ignition, coil control with no spark works on many vehicle engine systems. Thanks Paul for all your Teachings and videos over the years.
Hey Paul, great video of what we deal with in this industry. My experience is, if it's an easy part to change and less than $100, I'll fix it at no charge and explain it to the customer when I let them know its ready. I have gained a lot of lifetime customers that way. They appreciate my honesty/integrity. If it is not a simple/cheap fix, I'll call the customer and explain what just happened. Sometimes, it doesn't go over very well with the customer, but most of the time, they understand. If you are sincere and explain it well enough for them to understand, they usually feel that you are not trying to rip them off. My favorite thing I tell my customers is "You just have to be honest."
I can appreciate this, but it's still honesty and integrity to charge them full price and make no apologies. This way you're not subsidizing your technicians pay to please your customer. (Not saying you operate that way) I mean you still got to pay him to troubleshoot it and change whatever failed part there is. But I also understand wanting to "take care of a customer", I just think we operate out of fear of losing a customer too much.
@@ScannerDannerAll because of the dishonest technicians is why this is a thing. Also there's dishonest customers too. Who knows it may have died on them previously and knew about the issue hoping it would die on us so they can claim it's our fault. Seen this before and heard about it.
I just recently had this situation happen this last week. I rebuilt some steering and suspension on a chrysler 200, and then the next day, the car stalled in an intersection. Ckp went out. Stuff happens. Good video showing these situations.
Thanks for posting. You are 100% right about charging diag time. A lot of the time the customer would leave with the car and something non-related would happen. We had this saying it was a since you worked on it. Of course this is when I worked FLAT RATE. PepBoys was good for this.
Years ago I did a tune up on my aunt's 2.2 4 cyl. Plugs, cap, and wires. It ran like a champ. A week or two later it had a miss. I could not find it for awhile so I went back to basics and did a compression test which was good but in doing so I also checked the gaps on the plugs and one of them was too big. I corrected the gap and again it ran like a champ. Too small and the spark is not hot enough and too big and it may not fire or fire intermittently. Good video.
Because I'm a "Nice Guy" I would charge for the install and any parts. The Coil diag is a freebie. And I would move on. And thanks Paul, I am a SD Premium Member!
I had an old Chevy pickup in the shop (I can't remember why) but after I lifted it, the truck became a no comm no start. Turned out whoever replaced the fuel pump had the harness pinched between the tank and frame. Lifting it at the frame was enough to crush the wire and pop a fuse and created a whole other problem. Also, I would like to comment on looking at wiring by memory - I had an awful alternator to do on a nissan 3.5. It is a very tight fit. The wires pulled out of the connector during the repair. I went and looked at the diagram and repaired the wiring but the alternator was charging at 15V. So we ordered another alternator and I did it again and had the same problem. After going back to the diagram and finding the pinout, it turned out that pin #1 was not the first pin in the connector!
Call customer, get diag approval, check and advise. It's a struggle in this field because of bad reps. Although in other fields, i.e., electrical, plumbing, hvac and medical customers pay without haggling.
I put a set of heads on 6.8 ford. Drove the van in the shop. Tried to start it after heads and timing job. Fuel pump was dead. Would only pump 10 psi. Customer wasn't happy but he did pay me to replace.
this took me back a little bit. years ago my 98 wrangler 4.0 died on me as i went into second gear, thought i stalled her but no. i went to start it and just crank crank crank now luckily this was only a few blocks away from the house so my dad got his NAVIGATOR (which is what your driving LOL) and strapped my jeep up and towed her home
Heres a good question., A famous UA-cam mechanic put a video out about a Ford that had shorted the PCM. I had made a comment that I have fixed a few of these in same situation and every one of them the spark plugs were way way over due. I said that the big gap of the spark plug put more stress on the coil which fries the driver and that worn spark plugs. Im of the opinion that if plugs are changed at a normal interval that ya dont get coil issues. He commented and told me that worn out spark plugs actually cause a lower amp draw and not the reason for failure. . Id assume that higher gap causes higher voltage which the driver cant handle?
Amperage doesn't change in the primary circuit. Secondary kv will increase with many variables. 1. Cylinder pressure 2. A/F ratio 3. Worn plugs (increased gap) All of these change KV demand and therefor stress on a coil. But in reality, plug gap isn't going to be what cooks a coil and driver. Ford COPs were garbage and so were their computer drivers. It wouldn't be from plugs on those systems
@@ScannerDanner don't forget about the every changing back EMF pulses and voltage spikes on the primary side, which all turns into more heat and we know for sure excessive heat kills electronics. once capacitors/diodes start to fail the drivers quickly go bye bye. thank good it's not an microwave or higher RF signal igniting the fuel 🤣 maybe I shouldn't joke, before someone decides to try it....
Wow, I saw something similar. A few years back, I took my truck to get new tires, and while waiting at their launch area, I saw a newer car drive in. It was an older woman and her son. A few minutes after they arrived, they refused the services offered by the shop, and when the technician got in the car to get it out of the bay, their car would not start. The tech said it might be the battery, but they would only know once they could diagnose the problem. The woman started yelling, "...I drove in my car was fine when I got here, it is your problem and I am not paying, so you figure it out." I don't know how they ended that problem that day; the woman created a disturbance. I wanted to avoid being in the middle, so I walked out. I understand the dilemma and believe they could have communicated or explained more effectively.
Stuff happens. I did an induction service on a civic once. On the test drive, the check engine came on for a map sensor issue. I thought the cleaner got onto the sensor and damaged it. So we put a new one in. Drive it 10 miles with no issues. Cust comes back with the check engine light on later that day. Long story short, it needed the valves adjusted. Had to explain that one to the customer.
We had a similar situation customer dropped off vehicle for brakes or whatever and the fuel pump failed in the parking lot trying to bring it in. Luckily the owner of vehicle was still onsite so he got to see the vehicle wouldn't start for us to bring in. Made it easier to sell the testing and repair.
Some can and some can't, you're work is so admirable as an ex mechanic, I can't put up with shit like this, forced me to leave. ONLY because people always carry on in situations like this and often unload their misfortune onto you, being their second biggest asset in most cases. That treatment is Understandable, but unacceptable in my opinion unless you reap the dollars your owed (which I wasn't unfortunately for most my career) :(
Definitely one of those sucky things we can relate to. Lots of the time the customer will always blame the shop. Examples are when you repair an exhaust system only to suddenly hear the bearing rattle…..you guys know what I am saying😅
One of the best case studies really really Love it😍😍😍 Every word you said is worth a Million Dollars, the reason most technicians leave this trade is bcuz of all these risks & issues, & it's difficult to understand that people go to a doctor (multiple times) & tell them the symptoms to get a prescription or a test, but same people come to us & don't want to pay, even what we've worked for & is our right to charge🤔 I really hope that our industry will grow & have equal pay scales🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 BTW doctors cannot fix machines that keep evolving in technology over time, human anatomy is the same since Adam & Eve😇😇😇 Thanks for sharing SD, STAY BLESSED🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
LOL That reminds me of a mechanic i knew whose Father-in-law was a doctor. He basically told him the same thing "i have to learn new technology that comes out every year and the human body hasn't changed for hundreds of years, so you got it easy".
@@KStewart-th4sk Thanks buddy, love it😍😍😍 Even today I'm attending a training with the Chinese on their upcoming model's🤓📑 Love our trade man never let's us retire from school😅😅😅
What was that long electrical probe you used at the beginning of the video? Never seen it before and looks like it is handy when trying to fish your way to a connector
@@rustynail7866 But it was working when they drove it in there. Even though it was not shady, it sounds like it to a customer. I guess it really depends on if you want to keep them as a customer or not as to whether you should eat the repair or not.
@@charlesfinnegan7930 As a customer of a mechanic I trust, I would insist on paying. If you don’t trust your mechanic, don’t go there. Same goes for doctors, lawyers, CPA’s, etc. “Next available” is asking for trouble.
That vehicle is 30 years old . Idk if you drove it to me for brakes , if the tranmission fails on the test drive your not getting shit free buddy other than the diag. I will diagnose free of charge at that point to determine fault. If it's failed because your shit is 30 years old with 200,000 miles you will receive a quote. If i find my self at fault your getting a free transmission and install. Simple as that. Don't belive my diagnostic, then tow it somewhere else for a second opinion .@charlesfinnegan7930
Yes that's bad it may happen but that's a risk we all take and the customer may blame us i have been lucky never happened to me just minor problems but luckily with good customers and they understood and paid extra or may be they already new there was a problem
Even though the fundamentals are the same on all vehicles. Many newer vehicles are harder to test, simply because it's harder to get to certain areas or wires, that's a major difference in newer cars.
Hi there, I have a bit of an electrical issue with my 1999 TL ecu. When I turn my key to on in my 1990 miata, I give it 12v switched from a DEDICATED aftermarket relay for my fuel pump, it primes from pin A15 of my 1999tl. When I turn my key to the start (III) position to crank the car, I get no fuel relay signal to my relay, but when I turn it back to on (II) it primes the fuel pump again. Any tips? Pin on my relay: 87 - Fuel pump power 86 - switched 12v from blue miata ignition wire 85 - honda 1999 tl pin a15 grn/yellow 30 - battery positive terminal Is it possible that my ECU feed and coil aren't getting enough amperage from my switched 12v to the ecu?
As always, an informative video. Thanks Paul!⚡ For the first time in a long time of viewing your case studies, I saw gloves on your hands, now I don’t feel like a white-handed person 😁, colleagues at work 👨🏼🔧, they jokingly call me “genecologist”🤣 when I put on Milwaukee gloves. Greetings from 🇰🇿....
Work at a shop for years. This happens more times than people realize. In would say its 50/50 that customers are ok with them paying for everything. The other half demand we pay for it because it wasn’t like that before. We usually just eat it at that point and dont work on the car again
For the half that get irrate. I say charge for it anyway! As you said, they're not your customer anyway and you never seen them again regardless. No reason for a shop to eat this
Had a customer bring in his S-10 pickup for a state inspection, customer was waiting, completed the inspection and needed a new bulb for the high mounted stop light. Completed the repair, went to back out the vehicle and nothing. Truck did not move in either forward or reverse. Customer started to say something of what did you do, to which I responded, you tell me. He stopped and thought that one over and said nothing. Gave him the name of a transmission shop we recommended which he followed and had his transmission overhauled.
This is a no start, no spark diagnostic video on a 1996 Jeep 4.0L. No prior history of trouble, no customer complaints of misfiring or intermittent no start conditions. The ignition coil failed, of no fault of our own, while servicing the A/C system. What do you do in this situation? 1. Eat it (free diag and ignition coil for the customer) 2. Stop, call the customer, explain what happened and the sell the job (sell testing time and then the repair) 3. Eat the labor for the testing time (diagnostic) and labor for the coil r&r and just sell the ignition coil at cost? Related videos: No Spark Diagnostics "Control Testing" Part 1 [a free ScannerDanner Premium video] ua-cam.com/video/7nHbctRwyys/v-deo.html No Spark Diagnostics "Control Testing" Part 2 [a free ScannerDanner Premium video] ua-cam.com/video/9U942uGTZf0/v-deo.html Subaru no spark diagnosis-control testing lecture (a free SD Premium video) ua-cam.com/video/LdnnFD6J8Uo/v-deo.html
I replaced a cap and rotor on a vehicle that was running. I installed the new parts and the engine failed to start. I put the old parts back on the vehicle, and the engine started. It turned out that the rotor was defective.
@ScannerDanner I'm not sure how it would stress a coil. I drive my 72 Chevy El Camino. I put in electronic ignition and set the spark plug gap to . 047 to see what happens. The engine ran the same as at . 035 gap. I like the number 47. Maybe Trump will be the 47th president.
@peacepoet1947 I'm speaking in general. But if you ever have a chance to play with an oscilloscope and can monitor secondary KV of an ignition coil, experiment with variable air gaps and you'll see what I'm talking about.
What do you use to plug the pin holes that you put in the wire insulation when using the piercing probe in order to prevent corrosion from damaging the wire??
Just over a week ago I drove a nissan into my bay, it was making awful noises from the timing chain area, the car was shut off, I checked dtcs koeo, timing codes were present, the car never started again. That customer wasn't happy, declined repairs. They were driving for several months with the excessive engine noise, why they were so upset when the engine suddenly wouldn't run is beyond me.
If that's how you want to handle it as a garage owner, that's fine, but you MUST pay your tech for the diag and repair! The full amount, as if it came in for that problem. We need to stop subsidizing the techs pay to "keep the customer happy", which is all too common.
@@ScannerDanner thanks for replying. Also I’m a harley tech and I have applied some of your knowledge to some of the bikes. Basic electric stuff. And as I’m replying back to you I’m watching some of your videos lol. Say hi to your cameraman and your brother and the famous Pete.
@caturras1928 awesome! That explains how you knew it was a Vrod muscle by just the front tire 😊 I have a few videos on it here. One was installing the backrest and another on the O2 sensor with my class lol. I just wanted the write off 😊
100%! But as shown here, sometimes the customer isn't lying and this truly was the first time this happened as it's my sons car and I know it for sure! So we just need to be careful in how we approach this
It's always hard to call a customer and tell him it broke but it was not your fault. I still think the customer should pay diag and repair otherwise its really not fair to your techs.
Another question I have: what if the customer doesn't see eye-to-eye with you on what happened, and refuses to pay you for the coil replacement? The car can't just sit in your shop forever, so at the end of the day, wouldn't you still have to replace the coil for free?
These boxes have been in my garage for over 20 years. I left the wrenching part of this field in 2000 to start teaching full-time 🙂, so yeah, these are a little dated
@@ScannerDanner Same.. I've had my boxes for 20 years or so now.. But I just meant-- When you open the drawers and see a random bundle of wires and parts everywhere.. that's how mine are too.. But I still know where everything is. Even though it looks like a mess, it's actually very organized.. at least in my head. :)
@calholli yes sir 😊 I was 27 or 28 when I first started teaching full time and I'm 51 now 😅 I had 8 years in the field full time before I started teaching, then continued working in the field as a mobile diagnostic tech all during my teaching days.
English uk man. 64 yrs old. motorbike no start no bad earth no bad fuse. 1250 suzuki bike. same problem same as a car. the ecu doesnt know its a car or a bike. sorted the prob. Ta.
My Fuel trims are very Bad, but this ONLY if the air conditioning is on. It’s even flashing a P0130 Code after a while, if the AC is of. What’s that all about, can’t wrap my head around it? Makes no sense to me?
@@ScannerDanner The P0130 actually means bank 1 sensor 1 electrical malfunction. The lambda sensor (wideband) has already been replaced however and it is giving the same values. Currently the short term fuel trims at +3-4 are sometimes down to 0.8, the long term fuel trims at -3 but only when the air conditioning is on. If I turn it off, the short term go up to over +13 (and more) even worse when idling, long term also goes up to over +10, extremely lean, as if there was a vacuum leak. So bad that this P0130 code is eventually triggered, often a P0171 (mixture too lean) is also triggered and the control unit goes into open loop. If I reset the errors, the whole thing starts again. The sensor after the catalytic converter has also already been replaced, new ignition coil, spark plugs, mass airflow sensor was cleaned, throttle body cleaned, all original parts, no change. I looked into the catalytic converter from behind, from here it looks physically intact, I can't say if it's the same from the front, I couldn't see in there. The car is a VW Beetle 1.6liter engine. Thank you in advance! I'm very interested to hear an expert's opinion on this. I can't make sense of what's going on here.
@Xantylon74 when did this start? It is now very complicated when a bunch of parts have been changed. In particular the O2 sensors themselves! Factory parts MUST be used on some of these systems. What you are describing is a very unusual symptom. What does the flow chart gor that trouble code list as options for faults? Id be putting factory O2 sensors in that as a starting point, once you give me a history of this fault that is.
it's very unusual, I know. The ignition coil was replaced because cylinder one was misfiring when it rained. I fixed the problem. The lambda sensors are original from the manufacturer Bosch and from the number. I still have the original ones; they weren't defective and give the same values. The vehicle failed the emissions test; my first thought was a defective catalytic converter, then I started with the diagnosis and finally found that the values normalize when the air conditioning is switched on. I noticed this before the O2 sensors were replaced; it was exactly the same. My thoughts are with the air conditioning pressure sensor; that this may be feeding a fault into the system, changing the reference voltage for other sensors. But it would be more logical if the values were better with the air conditioning turned off, not when it is turned on, right? Perhaps the engine control unit has stored different fuel trim values with and without air conditioning and the ones without are out of control. But it can't save any new values either because the error code comes up and activates the MIL before the readiness code has even been generated. Too low fuel pressure doesn't make sense either, then the values would generally be bad. The only thing that changes when the air conditioning is switched on is a slightly higher load and 100 more revolutions when idling? So no, I can assume that it wasn't a repair or cleaning that caused this, because the problem was already there before. I could reset the throttle valve via OBD, but I doubt that that would change anything. Not that it would mess things up even more in this situation, so far the vehicle has been driving perfectly. Unfortunately the emissions test is done with the air conditioning switched off, because otherwise the idling speeds are too high for the test, otherwise you could test whether the vehicle passes like that. If the values were good and the catalytic converter was still intact, it should pass. At least then I would have confirmation that the catalytic converter (also original, btw.) is still working properly. Any ideas are very welcome.
The machanic is never responsible a customers car problems, short of the mechanic causing the problem! Clearly the coil was about to go out on the next drive.
Push it back outside and say when you went to start it would not run and cant work on it, must take it else where to get fixed lmao. no charge. also take the freon back out etc.😂😂
Boy that would be an understanding customer if you are charging for the diagnostic time and coil replacement on an AC repair. Most people eat it if they are a loyal customer. You will get it back ten fold in referrals.
I don't think we should eat it. If you're a garage owner, that's your prerogative, but you better be paying your tech if that's the case. And that includes diag time and the repair. And not shortcutting him/her in any way to "take care of the customer", which IS what happens all the time! We subsidize technicians pay to "take care of the customer" and it's complete b.s.
@@ScannerDanner All fields have their positives and negatives. If you don't like the issues with flat rate billing in the automotive field, start working in a factory repairing equipment . This is hourly pay and normally pays more and better benefits. Find a field that works for you! Most of all have a great day!
watched your utube stuff in England. bought a test light and and a multimeter and some t pins. the suzuki dealer charged me £400 and said it was basically a new loom. these bastard dealers here will stuff you. found a ground to short. its always easy if you know how.
In general depending on what happened. If the technician causes the issue. Example frying a computer when testing. Then that is on the shop. Now a part failing like in this case, it’s on the customer. Now the question of who pays to figure out the issue, I think the shop still get some money. So if it was the shop then half of their rate if they caused the part to fail. Just a regular failed part then the customer pays in full. If a shop wants to do it a bit differently. Then that’s their prerogative.
Agree, it is the shops prerogative but they better be paying their tech the full diag time and repair. Any discounts come from the owners pocket, not the tech and unfortunately it always comes out of the techs pocket and that is 100% b.s.
I'm a teacher, and I'm teaching to my students, both personal and online. I'm not here for entertainment, or for silver bullets. If this isn't your style, there are plenty of other channels out there
you think this was staged? I'd love to know how to stage an ignition coil failure on camera. I promise this was not a setup. You are obviously new here. I've been filming since 2011 and I have never, not once, staged something. Ask around or watch some more of my content and you will see. We film live and figure out the problems as we go
![Who pays for this? [Engine dies while servicing A/C system]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2xMlNjTJnZU/mqdefault.jpg)
![No Start, No Crank - Suspected Bad ECM - [Auction Truck]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hhbmJprhino/mqdefault.jpg)
SD premium is the best 11$ a month I’ve spent. Glad to have so much knowledge right at my fingertips and glad to support you and the great work you’re doing. Thank you for doing all you do
Thank you so much!
@@ScannerDanner these old Jeeps are so reliable especially the inline 4-liter ignition coils going bad for being the running problem it's almost worth just always having an ignition coil on you to slap one in 9 out of 10 times it's usually going to be the ignition coil on these if you're getting fuel
And this is why I'm a premium member. One day, I'd just hope to have a fraction of knowledge this man has. Great vid as always.
Thank you so much!
Option 4: Finish charging the AC then push it outside and act surprised when the customer comes to pick it up
hahaha good one Noah!
@@ScannerDanner I learned from the best ;)
😂😂😂
Reminds when I picked my s10 up from a complete new brake line set install. Paid, got my keys and went out to start it. Very noticeable exhaust leak. Went back and was told he had to pull o2 sensor to route line and it now leaked at sensor base. Not sure why nobody mentioned it to me up front
@gadasavideos8564 that is a completely different story and is the garages fault for never addressing it and going you wouldn't notice
😂😂😂 "My car was running fine until you fixed the a/c"
Right?!
That really puts you in an awkward spot. I stopped doing side work for cash several years ago after a couple of jobs went sideways like this one. Now I just help about family and friends for swapped labor or dinner.
I had to stop on one car. Anything you touched would break of fail. Had to pull the engine up when the front cover for the oil sump broke. You can't change it unless the oil pan is removed.
This is why I don't even do work for family. Couldn't even get a cheesecake from my own mother.
Two separate issues. Its on the customer - excellent video, thanks
QUICK DIAG with a test light & ASD system understanding for ignition, coil control with no spark works on many vehicle engine systems. Thanks Paul for all your Teachings and videos over the years.
Thanks again Mr Danner, keep fighting the Good Fight.
Oilers just closed out the Kings in 5 games. Fingers crossed for The Cup.
Stay gold.
Hey Paul, great video of what we deal with in this industry. My experience is, if it's an easy part to change and less than $100, I'll fix it at no charge and explain it to the customer when I let them know its ready. I have gained a lot of lifetime customers that way. They appreciate my honesty/integrity.
If it is not a simple/cheap fix, I'll call the customer and explain what just happened. Sometimes, it doesn't go over very well with the customer, but most of the time, they understand.
If you are sincere and explain it well enough for them to understand, they usually feel that you are not trying to rip them off. My favorite thing I tell my customers is "You just have to be honest."
I can appreciate this, but it's still honesty and integrity to charge them full price and make no apologies. This way you're not subsidizing your technicians pay to please your customer. (Not saying you operate that way) I mean you still got to pay him to troubleshoot it and change whatever failed part there is.
But I also understand wanting to "take care of a customer", I just think we operate out of fear of losing a customer too much.
"We operate out of fear of losing a customer".
*raises hand and waves it wildly.
@@ScannerDannerAll because of the dishonest technicians is why this is a thing. Also there's dishonest customers too. Who knows it may have died on them previously and knew about the issue hoping it would die on us so they can claim it's our fault. Seen this before and heard about it.
I just recently had this situation happen this last week. I rebuilt some steering and suspension on a chrysler 200, and then the next day, the car stalled in an intersection. Ckp went out. Stuff happens. Good video showing these situations.
Yep, who would believe this could happen but it does! Glad it was an easy diag and repair.
Thanks for posting. You are 100% right about charging diag time. A lot of the time the customer would leave with the car and something non-related would happen. We had this saying it was a since you worked on it. Of course this is when I worked FLAT RATE. PepBoys was good for this.
Man, nailed it Paul. Just another day in the shop making it work!
Always interesting to get the basics refreshed in my mind. Thanks Paul.
Years ago I did a tune up on my aunt's 2.2 4 cyl. Plugs, cap, and wires. It ran like a champ. A week or two later it had a miss. I could not find it for awhile so I went back to basics and did a compression test which was good but in doing so I also checked the gaps on the plugs and one of them was too big. I corrected the gap and again it ran like a champ. Too small and the spark is not hot enough and too big and it may not fire or fire intermittently. Good video.
Because I'm a "Nice Guy" I would charge for the install and any parts. The Coil diag is a freebie. And I would move on. And thanks Paul, I am a SD Premium Member!
I had an old Chevy pickup in the shop (I can't remember why) but after I lifted it, the truck became a no comm no start. Turned out whoever replaced the fuel pump had the harness pinched between the tank and frame. Lifting it at the frame was enough to crush the wire and pop a fuse and created a whole other problem. Also, I would like to comment on looking at wiring by memory - I had an awful alternator to do on a nissan 3.5. It is a very tight fit. The wires pulled out of the connector during the repair. I went and looked at the diagram and repaired the wiring but the alternator was charging at 15V. So we ordered another alternator and I did it again and had the same problem. After going back to the diagram and finding the pinout, it turned out that pin #1 was not the first pin in the connector!
Call customer, get diag approval, check and advise. It's a struggle in this field because of bad reps. Although in other fields, i.e., electrical, plumbing, hvac and medical customers pay without haggling.
Exactly!
I put a set of heads on 6.8 ford. Drove the van in the shop. Tried to start it after heads and timing job. Fuel pump was dead. Would only pump 10 psi. Customer wasn't happy but he did pay me to replace.
Crazy stuff right?
Dude you rock!!! 👊
Love watching you operate
this took me back a little bit. years ago my 98 wrangler 4.0 died on me as i went into second gear, thought i stalled her but no. i went to start it and just crank crank crank now luckily this was only a few blocks away from the house so my dad got his NAVIGATOR (which is what your driving LOL) and strapped my jeep up and towed her home
You saved the customer $150 in towing charges.
Heres a good question., A famous UA-cam mechanic put a video out about a Ford that had shorted the PCM. I had made a comment that I have fixed a few of these in same situation and every one of them the spark plugs were way way over due. I said that the big gap of the spark plug put more stress on the coil which fries the driver and that worn spark plugs. Im of the opinion that if plugs are changed at a normal interval that ya dont get coil issues. He commented and told me that worn out spark plugs actually cause a lower amp draw and not the reason for failure. . Id assume that higher gap causes higher voltage which the driver cant handle?
Amperage doesn't change in the primary circuit. Secondary kv will increase with many variables.
1. Cylinder pressure
2. A/F ratio
3. Worn plugs (increased gap)
All of these change KV demand and therefor stress on a coil. But in reality, plug gap isn't going to be what cooks a coil and driver. Ford COPs were garbage and so were their computer drivers. It wouldn't be from plugs on those systems
@@ScannerDanner don't forget about the every changing back EMF pulses and voltage spikes on the primary side, which all turns into more heat and we know for sure excessive heat kills electronics. once capacitors/diodes start to fail the drivers quickly go bye bye. thank good it's not an microwave or higher RF signal igniting the fuel 🤣 maybe I shouldn't joke, before someone decides to try it....
Wow, I saw something similar. A few years back, I took my truck to get new tires, and while waiting at their launch area, I saw a newer car drive in. It was an older woman and her son. A few minutes after they arrived, they refused the services offered by the shop, and when the technician got in the car to get it out of the bay, their car would not start. The tech said it might be the battery, but they would only know once they could diagnose the problem. The woman started yelling, "...I drove in my car was fine when I got here, it is your problem and I am not paying, so you figure it out." I don't know how they ended that problem that day; the woman created a disturbance. I wanted to avoid being in the middle, so I walked out. I understand the dilemma and believe they could have communicated or explained more effectively.
Stuff happens. I did an induction service on a civic once. On the test drive, the check engine came on for a map sensor issue. I thought the cleaner got onto the sensor and damaged it. So we put a new one in. Drive it 10 miles with no issues. Cust comes back with the check engine light on later that day. Long story short, it needed the valves adjusted. Had to explain that one to the customer.
Had a bonnet(hood) cable snap on me the other day, luckily they are good people ands it was after the job done test drive...
We had a similar situation customer dropped off vehicle for brakes or whatever and the fuel pump failed in the parking lot trying to bring it in. Luckily the owner of vehicle was still onsite so he got to see the vehicle wouldn't start for us to bring in. Made it easier to sell the testing and repair.
I saw this situation a lot if time in my career specially when working on old cars 😅.
I have seen Technicians panic when this occurs. Scanner Danner does not. He gets the job done professionally.
Ever since you changed my wiper blades my horn doesn't work, right Paul. 🤣
Some can and some can't, you're work is so admirable as an ex mechanic, I can't put up with shit like this, forced me to leave. ONLY because people always carry on in situations like this and often unload their misfortune onto you, being their second biggest asset in most cases. That treatment is Understandable, but unacceptable in my opinion unless you reap the dollars your owed (which I wasn't unfortunately for most my career) :(
Thanks Paul.
Thank you Pablo!
Very nice and clear explanation.
I have a question, what are the possible problems if my car starts but dies when I start moving it?
a myriad of possibilities. Need more info than that. Year, make, model, engine, history of this symptom etc etc
Thanks Paul for sharing your video.
Definitely one of those sucky things we can relate to. Lots of the time the customer will always blame the shop. Examples are when you repair an exhaust system only to suddenly hear the bearing rattle…..you guys know what I am saying😅
One of the best case studies really really Love it😍😍😍
Every word you said is worth a Million Dollars, the reason most technicians leave this trade is bcuz of all these risks & issues, & it's difficult to understand that people go to a doctor (multiple times) & tell them the symptoms to get a prescription or a test, but same people come to us & don't want to pay, even what we've worked for & is our right to charge🤔
I really hope that our industry will grow & have equal pay scales🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
BTW doctors cannot fix machines that keep evolving in technology over time, human anatomy is the same since Adam & Eve😇😇😇
Thanks for sharing SD, STAY BLESSED🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
LOL That reminds me of a mechanic i knew whose Father-in-law was a doctor. He basically told him the same thing "i have to learn new technology that comes out every year and the human body hasn't changed for hundreds of years, so you got it easy".
@@KStewart-th4sk Thanks buddy, love it😍😍😍
Even today I'm attending a training with the Chinese on their upcoming model's🤓📑
Love our trade man never let's us retire from school😅😅😅
What was that long electrical probe you used at the beginning of the video? Never seen it before and looks like it is handy when trying to fish your way to a connector
It's call Phil's Electrical Probe and you can get one here www.aeswave.com/scannerdanner
Thank you!
Just got in my TOPDON AD900BT will do the premium to learn the in and outs on scan tools
thanks paul .
Customer pays everytime especially at the dealers .
The coil is bad. Absolutely nothing to do with repairing the AC. Customer should pay.
@@rustynail7866 But it was working when they drove it in there. Even though it was not shady, it sounds like it to a customer. I guess it really depends on if you want to keep them as a customer or not as to whether you should eat the repair or not.
@@charlesfinnegan7930 As a customer of a mechanic I trust, I would insist on paying. If you don’t trust your mechanic, don’t go there. Same goes for doctors, lawyers, CPA’s, etc. “Next available” is asking for trouble.
That vehicle is 30 years old . Idk if you drove it to me for brakes , if the tranmission fails on the test drive your not getting shit free buddy other than the diag. I will diagnose free of charge at that point to determine fault. If it's failed because your shit is 30 years old with 200,000 miles you will receive a quote. If i find my self at fault your getting a free transmission and install. Simple as that. Don't belive my diagnostic, then tow it somewhere else for a second opinion .@charlesfinnegan7930
@@charlesfinnegan7930 If it's a cheap fix and a good customer but a good customer will know your honesty and believe you.
Yes that's bad it may happen but that's a risk we all take and the customer may blame us i have been lucky never happened to me just minor problems but luckily with good customers and they understood and paid extra or may be they already new there was a problem
Even though the fundamentals are the same on all vehicles. Many newer vehicles are harder to test, simply because it's harder to get to certain areas or wires, that's a major difference in newer cars.
As you said, fundamentals are the same
Hi there, I have a bit of an electrical issue with my 1999 TL ecu.
When I turn my key to on in my 1990 miata, I give it 12v switched from a DEDICATED aftermarket relay for my fuel pump, it primes from pin A15 of my 1999tl. When I turn my key to the start (III) position to crank the car, I get no fuel relay signal to my relay, but when I turn it back to on (II) it primes the fuel pump again. Any tips?
Pin on my relay:
87 - Fuel pump power
86 - switched 12v from blue miata ignition wire
85 - honda 1999 tl pin a15 grn/yellow
30 - battery positive terminal
Is it possible that my ECU feed and coil aren't getting enough amperage from my switched 12v to the ecu?
As always, an informative video.
Thanks Paul!⚡
For the first time in a long time of viewing your case studies, I saw gloves on your hands, now I don’t feel like a white-handed person 😁, colleagues at work 👨🏼🔧, they jokingly call me “genecologist”🤣 when I put on Milwaukee gloves.
Greetings from 🇰🇿....
Still got his hands dirty though...🤔😏🥸
@@malcolmyoung7866 😁👌🏻
😂😂 thanks buddy.
Work at a shop for years. This happens more times than people realize. In would say its 50/50 that customers are ok with them paying for everything. The other half demand we pay for it because it wasn’t like that before. We usually just eat it at that point and dont work on the car again
For the half that get irrate. I say charge for it anyway! As you said, they're not your customer anyway and you never seen them again regardless. No reason for a shop to eat this
Had a customer bring in his S-10 pickup for a state inspection, customer was waiting, completed the inspection and needed a new bulb for the high mounted stop light. Completed the repair, went to back out the vehicle and nothing. Truck did not move in either forward or reverse. Customer started to say something of what did you do, to which I responded, you tell me. He stopped and thought that one over and said nothing. Gave him the name of a transmission shop we recommended which he followed and had his transmission overhauled.
Customer - How possible when servicing AC, ignition coil failed….?
Technician - bad luck, electronics can not trust all the time….. 😂😂😂😂😂😂
This is a no start, no spark diagnostic video on a 1996 Jeep 4.0L. No prior history of trouble, no customer complaints of misfiring or intermittent no start conditions. The ignition coil failed, of no fault of our own, while servicing the A/C system. What do you do in this situation?
1. Eat it (free diag and ignition coil for the customer)
2. Stop, call the customer, explain what happened and the sell the job
(sell testing time and then the repair)
3. Eat the labor for the testing time (diagnostic) and labor for the coil r&r and just sell the ignition coil at cost?
Related videos:
No Spark Diagnostics "Control Testing" Part 1 [a free ScannerDanner Premium video]
ua-cam.com/video/7nHbctRwyys/v-deo.html
No Spark Diagnostics "Control Testing" Part 2 [a free ScannerDanner Premium video]
ua-cam.com/video/9U942uGTZf0/v-deo.html
Subaru no spark diagnosis-control testing lecture (a free SD Premium video)
ua-cam.com/video/LdnnFD6J8Uo/v-deo.html
I replaced a cap and rotor on a vehicle that was running. I installed the new parts and the engine failed to start. I put the old parts back on the vehicle, and the engine started. It turned out that the rotor was defective.
A large cap in the spark plug puts stress on the coil? That's something new to me.
@@peacepoet1947 a large gap requires more energy to jump that gap, which puts more stress on a coil
@ScannerDanner I'm not sure how it would stress a coil. I drive my 72 Chevy El Camino. I put in electronic ignition and set the spark plug gap to . 047 to see what happens. The engine ran the same as at . 035 gap. I like the number 47. Maybe Trump will be the 47th president.
@peacepoet1947 I'm speaking in general. But if you ever have a chance to play with an oscilloscope and can monitor secondary KV of an ignition coil, experiment with variable air gaps and you'll see what I'm talking about.
3 things needed for an engine to run, Air, Fuel, Spark, if any is screwy it wont start or stay lit.
Nice 👍🏼 ! Very helpful !!
Thanks 🙏🏼
What do you use to plug the pin holes that you put in the wire insulation when using the piercing probe in order to prevent corrosion from damaging the wire??
Liquid electrical tape
Nice work 😮
Just over a week ago I drove a nissan into my bay, it was making awful noises from the timing chain area, the car was shut off, I checked dtcs koeo, timing codes were present, the car never started again. That customer wasn't happy, declined repairs. They were driving for several months with the excessive engine noise, why they were so upset when the engine suddenly wouldn't run is beyond me.
Crazy how that crap happens in our bays
Look at the bright side.. at least it failed with you in the shop than with him on the road.
4:42 getting close! We all say it when everything is checked and pulled out. Ha ha ha ha.
video every repair like Rainman what was done as proof? what if it is ecm?
How dare you ? Cuz you sucked down my ac now you cause my tire to go flat 😂
#3. The video will pay in droves in reputation and future clients. The current client will also see you as "my mechanic". Win-Win.
If that's how you want to handle it as a garage owner, that's fine, but you MUST pay your tech for the diag and repair! The full amount, as if it came in for that problem. We need to stop subsidizing the techs pay to "keep the customer happy", which is all too common.
If my mechanic (shout out to Junior) is underpaid it's because he's underpaid himself. He's the owner-operator!@@ScannerDanner
Awesome Outstanding job thanks
Hey that’s a nice V-Ros Muscle. What year is it? Btw I love your videos lots of knowledge. Thanks for sharing.
2016 and I sold it to buy my 78 Power Wagon 😀
Thanks!
@@ScannerDanner thanks for replying. Also I’m a harley tech and I have applied some of your knowledge to some of the bikes. Basic electric stuff. And as I’m replying back to you I’m watching some of your videos lol. Say hi to your cameraman and your brother and the famous Pete.
@caturras1928 awesome! That explains how you knew it was a Vrod muscle by just the front tire 😊
I have a few videos on it here. One was installing the backrest and another on the O2 sensor with my class lol.
I just wanted the write off 😊
What scan tool are you recommending for multiple makes that has good bi directional capabilities?
What's your budget? With a lab scope too or without?
For $100 you simply cannot beat the Topdon TopScan Pro
www.aeswave.com/scannerdanner
Customers never see it like that. Some of them know their vehicle has another problem and they just want to conveniently blame it on you.
100%! But as shown here, sometimes the customer isn't lying and this truly was the first time this happened as it's my sons car and I know it for sure! So we just need to be careful in how we approach this
It's always hard to call a customer and tell him it broke but it was not your fault. I still think the customer should pay diag and repair otherwise its really not fair to your techs.
Exactly!
Another question I have: what if the customer doesn't see eye-to-eye with you on what happened, and refuses to pay you for the coil replacement? The car can't just sit in your shop forever, so at the end of the day, wouldn't you still have to replace the coil for free?
I would fire that customer. Period
@@ScannerDanner xD
added heat from the AC working chooched the ignition/sensor/whatever, not the first time hot day and freshly repaired AC has ruined the day. lol
I bet your next video will be pulling the dash to replace the evaporator on that vehicle 😂
😂 so far (fingers crossed) we're good on that front
like a boss 👍
Option 2
Your toolbox drawers look exactly like mine.. lol
These boxes have been in my garage for over 20 years. I left the wrenching part of this field in 2000 to start teaching full-time 🙂, so yeah, these are a little dated
@@ScannerDanner Same.. I've had my boxes for 20 years or so now.. But I just meant-- When you open the drawers and see a random bundle of wires and parts everywhere.. that's how mine are too.. But I still know where everything is. Even though it looks like a mess, it's actually very organized.. at least in my head. :)
@@ScannerDanner That's crazy you've been teaching since 2000.. I graduated in 2000.. and I'm just now learning all this stuff in the last few years.
@calholli yes sir 😊 I was 27 or 28 when I first started teaching full time and I'm 51 now 😅
I had 8 years in the field full time before I started teaching, then continued working in the field as a mobile diagnostic tech all during my teaching days.
You are awesome
uk man. thanks .
old school testing.Interesting
And still just as valid on today's COP systems!
Just report to the owner about the coil failure and charge him/her for it…
would the car really not start just because ONE bad coil ? i know it would usually run with one less cylinder...
It's a distributor engine and only has one coil
First thing stop everything call customer
That is something that would happen to me.
English uk man. 64 yrs old. motorbike no start no bad earth no bad fuse. 1250 suzuki bike. same problem same as a car. the ecu doesnt know its a car or a bike. sorted the prob. Ta.
GREAT!!!
My Fuel trims are very Bad, but this ONLY if the air conditioning is on. It’s even flashing a P0130 Code after a while, if the AC is of. What’s that all about, can’t wrap my head around it? Makes no sense to me?
What is the P0130 code definition and what are your fuel trim numbers before and after turning the AC on.
@@ScannerDanner The P0130 actually means bank 1 sensor 1 electrical malfunction. The lambda sensor (wideband) has already been replaced however and it is giving the same values. Currently the short term fuel trims at +3-4 are sometimes down to 0.8, the long term fuel trims at -3 but only when the air conditioning is on. If I turn it off, the short term go up to over +13 (and more) even worse when idling, long term also goes up to over +10, extremely lean, as if there was a vacuum leak. So bad that this P0130 code is eventually triggered, often a P0171 (mixture too lean) is also triggered and the control unit goes into open loop. If I reset the errors, the whole thing starts again. The sensor after the catalytic converter has also already been replaced, new ignition coil, spark plugs, mass airflow sensor was cleaned, throttle body cleaned, all original parts, no change.
I looked into the catalytic converter from behind, from here it looks physically intact, I can't say if it's the same from the front, I couldn't see in there.
The car is a VW Beetle 1.6liter engine.
Thank you in advance! I'm very interested to hear an expert's opinion on this.
I can't make sense of what's going on here.
@Xantylon74 when did this start? It is now very complicated when a bunch of parts have been changed. In particular the O2 sensors themselves! Factory parts MUST be used on some of these systems. What you are describing is a very unusual symptom. What does the flow chart gor that trouble code list as options for faults?
Id be putting factory O2 sensors in that as a starting point, once you give me a history of this fault that is.
it's very unusual, I know. The ignition coil was replaced because cylinder one was misfiring when it rained. I fixed the problem. The lambda sensors are original from the manufacturer Bosch and from the number. I still have the original ones; they weren't defective and give the same values. The vehicle failed the emissions test; my first thought was a defective catalytic converter, then I started with the diagnosis and finally found that the values normalize when the air conditioning is switched on. I noticed this before the O2 sensors were replaced; it was exactly the same. My thoughts are with the air conditioning pressure sensor; that this may be feeding a fault into the system, changing the reference voltage for other sensors. But it would be more logical if the values were better with the air conditioning turned off, not when it is turned on, right? Perhaps the engine control unit has stored different fuel trim values with and without air conditioning and the ones without are out of control. But it can't save any new values either because the error code comes up and activates the MIL before the readiness code has even been generated. Too low fuel pressure doesn't make sense either, then the values would generally be bad. The only thing that changes when the air conditioning is switched on is a slightly higher load and 100 more revolutions when idling? So no, I can assume that it wasn't a repair or cleaning that caused this, because the problem was already there before. I could reset the throttle valve via OBD, but I doubt that that would change anything. Not that it would mess things up even more in this situation, so far the vehicle has been driving perfectly. Unfortunately the emissions test is done with the air conditioning switched off, because otherwise the idling speeds are too high for the test, otherwise you could test whether the vehicle passes like that. If the values were good and the catalytic converter was still intact, it should pass. At least then I would have confirmation that the catalytic converter (also original, btw.) is still working properly. Any ideas are very welcome.
I nicknamed you test light Danner I also love my taste like been using it 4 a long time
At least they saved on tow charges.
Indeed!
The machanic is never responsible a customers car problems, short of the mechanic causing the problem! Clearly the coil was about to go out on the next drive.
Push it back outside and say when you went to start it would not run and cant work on it, must take it else where to get fixed lmao. no charge. also take the freon back out etc.😂😂
"Know your basics"
Works on something with live positive and shorts it twice.
🤣🤣🤣
?
Boy that would be an understanding customer if you are charging for the diagnostic time and coil replacement on an AC repair. Most people eat it if they are a loyal customer. You will get it back ten fold in referrals.
I don't think we should eat it. If you're a garage owner, that's your prerogative, but you better be paying your tech if that's the case. And that includes diag time and the repair. And not shortcutting him/her in any way to "take care of the customer", which IS what happens all the time! We subsidize technicians pay to "take care of the customer" and it's complete b.s.
@@ScannerDanner All fields have their positives and negatives. If you don't like the issues with flat rate billing in the automotive field, start working in a factory repairing equipment . This is hourly pay and normally pays more and better benefits. Find a field that works for you! Most of all have a great day!
So it sounds like the owner made you eat this one after all.. :)
Haha he sure did
Please stay away from Jeep Cherokee's! you don't have a good track record! 🔥🔥
😂😂🤫
watched your utube stuff in England. bought a test light and and a multimeter and some t pins. the suzuki dealer charged me £400 and said it was basically a new loom. these bastard dealers here will stuff you. found a ground to short. its always easy if you know how.
found a good trick. disconnect the battery lead and use the test light on lead and pull the fuses until the light goes out. thats your short circuit.
you ought to do mototorbikes... more audiance...and the wirings a lot easier to get to. Englishman.
It happened cause you were pulling the vacuum on the a/c with the engine running 🏃
😂
What'd you due!? Insert Tommy Boy voice
😂😂
@@ScannerDanner idk why, but i thought you would enjoy that
Hallo everyone.
No free work. Period.
In general depending on what happened. If the technician causes the issue. Example frying a computer when testing. Then that is on the shop. Now a part failing like in this case, it’s on the customer.
Now the question of who pays to figure out the issue, I think the shop still get some money. So if it was the shop then half of their rate if they caused the part to fail. Just a regular failed part then the customer pays in full.
If a shop wants to do it a bit differently. Then that’s their prerogative.
Agree, it is the shops prerogative but they better be paying their tech the full diag time and repair. Any discounts come from the owners pocket, not the tech and unfortunately it always comes out of the techs pocket and that is 100% b.s.
vid dont have to be this long...
I'm a teacher, and I'm teaching to my students, both personal and online. I'm not here for entertainment, or for silver bullets. If this isn't your style, there are plenty of other channels out there
Not a setup video at all lol
you think this was staged? I'd love to know how to stage an ignition coil failure on camera. I promise this was not a setup. You are obviously new here. I've been filming since 2011 and I have never, not once, staged something. Ask around or watch some more of my content and you will see. We film live and figure out the problems as we go
Conclusion….. video every repair! 😂🫣 you have proof!