Here is the missing footage! ua-cam.com/video/CieIPtiiW3Q/v-deo.htmlsi=NTkZ9M-WEa6dQ9Pk I'm so sorry this got cut out by accident in our condensed version of this case study
To add a key manually for GM keyed ignition you just have to: 1) Turn ignition to run with working key 2) Turn ignition to off and remove key 3) Insert new key to be programmed and turn to run position I believe previously learned keys can be relearned. So you may have been learning those previously unlearned keys back to the vehicle.
I really screwed up on posting this condensed version here on YT (its 27 minutes long on my website). We accidentally cut out some key pieces of info. And I'm hearing this from many of you, because you believe the starter solenoid was what was making that clicking noise. It wasn’t! And i showed all of the control side tests of the starter relay and we were missing control from the ECM because of the immobilizer issue, but its not there! Holy crap, what a huge mistake! Im so sorry to those of you questioning things and im like, oh yeah, didnt you see me do that test? Meanwhile, no, you havent. 😢😢 Should i have Caleb rework this so you can see it? Damn EDIT: I'll put the full 27 minute video up on here soon. I'm so sorry again. You'll understand why when you see it.
Don't worry about it! I didn't even question it because you say right at the start. It was just being done quick and dirty to help out someone you know. Got it running with all 4 keys = Done Plus, a great laugh at a glitch in the matrix = almost identical failures so close together. P.S. I really like his tattoo.
@@frugalprepper they can, but I can't leave out a key piece of info and then act like people should know it was never a starter issue too. One poor guy I was like "did you comment before watching the full video". It really changed the dynamics of the entire thing. And my reply to that guy was super douchie with that missing data! Thanks though man. It really means a lot.
Thank you my friend. Blueprint is all we need right? I don't have all the answers but I certainly have the fundamentals for someone to learn from so they can then take off from there. Appreciate your comment
The fuses were corroded because that fuse block cover was left off and got wet. You can tell my looking at the top of the fuse block. Very common especially since the covers on those years of trucks have to positioned properly to get them to snap into position on both sides.
-Keith here. I just want to take a moment to shout out to Paul for taking the time to defend me to the keyboard warriors quick to comment on things they do not know. Scanner Danner is a fantastic teacher and I learned so much in his class. My need for his expertise and assistance is NOT a reflection of his teachings or abilities. I have been out of the field many years and electrical diag takes years to build a strong fundamental understanding. Whatever opinions some have, I respect and take criticism where given. But I do not want people to have the impression that I didn't take anything away from his class or what have you. Paul is an amazing teacher, a great friend, and one of the best men I know. Love you brother, thanks again for everything!!
Love you too man. Appreciate you commenting here. It was my hopes that you wouldn't even know about these comments. I should have thought about how this would be perceived by some, and then added comments about your path, but I really didn't think about it. People love to assume things and state their opinions 🙄
I bought your book and watched your videos. The fundamentals of testing process and thought procedures that I have learnt have taken away the doubt when I diagnose faults. I helped a very experienced mechanic (At least 25 years in the trade) who had a performance issue with a 1980's Lancia. He had spent nearly 2 weeks of his spare time swapping parts with no results. It took me around half an hour to find the issue and 15 minutes of that was setting up the scope and PC. My ability to solve this came form your teachings. Funny thing is, the chap still refuses to use these techniques that he witnessed . Keep doing what you do do.
@@ScannerDanner Your welcome. Further info, It was the distributor pickup that would give out a messy signal around 2,700 rpm. The scope confirmed it but the clue came from the Rev Counter which would suddenly start acting up at 2,700 rpm. Guess where the Rev counter got it's signal from. Credit to you for being such a great teacher.
Testing for a 5v reference shows us once again how valuable this test is for direction! This is a condensed version of an SD Premium case study that we released to our members a few weeks ago. www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
That 5v reff truck has saved my ass as a marine mechanic love how much I can apply auto theory and what I find on your channel to the marine field comes it hand so much lol
@@ScannerDanner it awesome to still learn diff tricks years after schooling I always watch your stuff to keep concepts and theory in my head fresh. Always look forward to a new video coming out
This is good. I was working on a VW Jetta yesterday which had an intermittent no start. Checked codes and found reference voltage b voltage open. Checked fuses, found one that was broken but bridged with a wire. Changed it and the car hasn't given the client any problem. I learnt the test procedure from you. Great work
Awesome video. I became a huge scope enthusiast because of your videos. I work in emergency power generation and scopes have made me really enjoy my profession. In industrial generation equipment we do not have the best scan tools. Over the past few years I have purchased almost every scope and scan tool available ( sometimes doubles ) because I enjoy using them. I would of never thought a tool could restore the passion I have had for diagnostics. Thanks to you I have found joy in and out of work.
What I have learned as a tech is that trouble comes in threes, prepare for another GM fusebox failure within the next couple weeks. Great video as always.
I agree, the 5V reference test is probably one of the easiest and fastest to get a roadmap in your head. Live and learn! 😀 (Might want to get a bunch of those fuse boxes at the Junk yard and open a fuse box repair business.)
Believe it or not I had a fuse disintegrate like that on my tractor, now it’s the first thing I look for. Can’t ask for a unhappy better ending to an auction purchase! Nice work Paul!
I took a fifteen year break from the trade to open a comic book store and raise my kids in it. I sold it a couple of years ago and now my sons want to open a repair shop with me. I'm glad to see that after so many years, the basics are still the basics and fundamentals are mostly the same.
Excellent lesson ! It shows the immense benefits that sticking to a methodological troubleshooting process provides . Follow the evidence -starting with the simple remedies ; and , if needed , go onto to more complex . That 5 V check is terrific !
Quick as I can make this: Our fleet vehicles are mostly Chevy 3500 express vans. Mine had a check engine light on for over 4 years. It had the engine replaced (washed out cam on cylinder 2) with a new crate engine along with new complete exhaust (cats and all). The check engine light stayed off for almost 2 work days. With in 6k miles, it was having issues and fleet pulled codes for key ID (1 time) and misfires on 1,3,5,7 cylinders and CO2 sensor. Cleared the codes and it ran fine. They ordered a new key and switch and I continued running it (no spares available). Of course it ran fine until the weekend, then it started running rough. I pulled the codes with my own cheap scanner from Autozone. No key code, but same 1,3,5,7 misfire codes and CO2 sensor. I cleared them, ran fine. The following morning, ran fine until I got out of my subdivision and then acted like it was running on 4 cylinders (because it was). Since it was a Saturday and after some phone calls it was determined a spare was not available nor was able to get to one, I started trying to figure it out. The only place it made sense for all four odd cylinders to loose ignition was the fuse box. I have a complete electronics lab at my house (my other channel is all about electronics repair, so fixing a broken circuit should be a piece of cake). I had power at the fuse on both sides, so I pulled the fuse box to see what I could find. I had resistance (9ohms) from the fuse out to harness pins on the bottom. I spent the day removing, jumping traces, installing, reading codes and taking it back out. Every time I pulled the panel, another trace would loosen at a solder joint and start throwing new codes. When it was all said and done, it ran with no codes. I drove it around the block a couple of times and it didn't have any faults and actually ran better than it ever has since I was assigned it almost 5 years ago. That said, I didn't trust the fuse box any further than I could throw it, but we had a diagnostic that fit. I was told to drive it in (didn't want to, btw). It died once while I was in the gas station. I had no crank when I tried to start it again. Poking around in fuse box, I found a janky connection on the ECM battery fuse. As soon as pushed it, solenoids staring clicking and the van made happy van noises. Started right back up, no codes, no rough running. It ran fine. In fact, it ran perfect for about 40 miles and then it was like someone turned off the key. Only this time, no pushing or wiggling of the ECM fuse (or any other for that matter) would get it running again. Fleet brought the new panel and stuck it in on the side of the road. It started, ran like garbage and died. Repeat, same result. Had it towed back to fleet and spent a few hours trouble shooting. Now, I'm not a fleet mechanic. But I was invested at this point. We had spark, we had fuel. We could not get it to even think about catching. The next day, it was sent out of house to GM 40 minutes away and it spent about a week there. I was convinced it was electrical and was afraid that janky ECM battery connection had damaged the ECM. I was wrong (write that down, I don't have to say it often). It wound up being plugged cats. They couldn't get to start either, until the took the CO2 sensors out. Fired right up. They replaced both cats and installed that key switch (remember that from an hour ago?) and it has run perfect ever since. Point is, if the fuses are corroded like that, I highly recommend replacing the fuse box as it is pretty likely got more than a few bad solder joints (and there is no easy way of separating the PCBs and I have all the tools to do it). I am guessing, even though it looked electrical, the cats would not have fouled out if the odd bank circuit would have been solid. The cats alone were 4100.00. Hope that story helps somebody. I found your video on the same fuse box the night after I got it running, so I'm going to copy and paste this "book" I just wrote over there.
Nice video. Got an early 2000s park avenue at the shop with some similar stuff going on. No crank/ no start. Found a rodent chewed wire under underhood fuse block that was control for ignition 1 relay. Missed it the first time because like a dummy i didnt load the circuit. Still not cranking but we will get it there! 10 years in the field and been watching before then and always learn something. Thanks
Being from Quebec where rust and corrosion is a major issue, I recognize the sound the starter was doing. It was stuck. The multiple attempts to crank finally freed it up. Very common issue here on vehicles that are parked for a while including stuck alternators (specially on fords and jeeps).
Great job, but once again you followed the whole diagnostic process and in doing that it does not matter who the manufacturer is. Thanks for another great video.
Paul, another great video. The symptoms that you were receiving is a combination between a very corroded fuse box and likely the cables or starter. Reason why I state that is because in those years the pats system was in the key unlike the earlier years when they were in the column. Another words, when you were first cranking it. The starter was hung up very likely to corrosion. Because the ECM was not communicating with the BCM it threw a code for the transponder system. It was simply by pure luck as you crank it over with multiple keys finally made contact with the starter. That’s my humble opinion from 3000 miles away. I would replace fuse box (very common problem) and check the connections to the starter system for corrosion. Ron
did you comment before watching the rest? It definitely was not a starter cable or battery issue in any way. The clicking we were hearing was not from the starting system but some aftermarket accessory EDIT: your comment was perfect. I'm so sorry, this video is missing some key stuff that got cut. Updating this soon EDIT AGAIN: Man what a douchebag comment this was by me!!. I read the first part and commented and didn't read the rest. And it was all completely my fault. I'm so sorry man. And this was an awesome compliment. Completely embarrassed is not even close to how I feel right now
@@ScannerDanner I am so very sorry buddy. I was NOT intending to correct you by any means. Perhaps I didn't hear you mention any aftermarket parts. I did watch the whole video. My grand kids were running around when I was watching. I very likely didn't hear you say anything about aftermarket accessories. I do remember you had questioned the security system. seeing you try all the keys and all of a sudden the last one worked for you with the white tag. You are amazing to watch. The way you handle issues and being very down to earth about things is great. Ever sense I started watching your videos I have shared it with everyone I know. Truth be told Eric O is the one that referred me to your channel. Again. I will watch it again. I am truly sorry. Ron
@@ronhannink1968 no man, I'm sorry too, I didn't mean that to sound that way. It's all good! I was missing control side power on that starter relay right? I'm pretty sure I was. And then I cranked the engine over by jumping the load side contacts with that tool. I'm sorry it's been awhile, but I'm pretty sure that's how it went
Dude! I screwed up big time in the edits on this one. We ran this video on my website and it's 27 minutes long and we condensed it for here and we cut out the parts I'm mentioning to you! So I have you to thank for pointing out this error!!! I'm going to run the full length one here too. There's no other way yo fix this goof now. I'm getting a lot of these comments and it didn't click until yours and I just went back to watch and it's not there!! Smh, I really messed up man. I'll make it right for you guys and bring that video over from my website
@@ScannerDanner I appreciate it. No worries my man. I didn't want to offend you. I look forward to watching the whole video. However, here is a perfect example how we are simply human. You very much rock. I am very interested in joining your premium channel.
Hello from Finland. In time frame 8:28, Ignition must be on before to start engine. That's why the car didn't start, because you only controlled the starter motor. Your videos are very interesting and instructive.
Remember that video Eric did on that black Silverado. Where the 2amp fuse was blown. He replaced fuse. With the key on, still no crank no start. But shut the key off and back on. The truck fired up. Needed a fuse box. Great job
Thank you! I heard "auction" and that it was an hour from my house and my frist thoughts were "heck no" lol Glad I did. And I couldn't day no to Keith! He is a super close friend these days. Not just a former student
Danner always gives you the impression he is still suprised by certain vehicle foibles rather than "Oh I Knew That Or This Etc Already) always learning top honest no BS great character kinda guy
It's different for me these days as I literally don't touch any cars off camera! So the volume isn't there like it used to be, for me to be able to say those kinds of things. So I am genuinely seeing things for the first time these days! 😄 Thank you very much for your words. It means a lot. Great start to my day!
Good Job Danner!! Now we need a follow-up video on why the design of the fuse box sucks. So many corrosion problems with vehicles in the Rust belt for example even before this kind of stupid stuff.
So a fuse repair and a key learn that happened from cycling the known good key then the others that had been cut for it and not programmed. That was a good deal at the auction! Scanner Danner is on it!
@@ScannerDanner for sure it already benefit me reading your book for just 10min about O2 sensors and it gave me a good understanding of the sensors that I'm currently diagnosing for 2007 Honda fit, so excited for this thanks again Paul.
@@michaelbuenvenida8473 I have a recent video on a Honda wideband in this year range ua-cam.com/video/CPsvgbCOdvo/v-deo.html Check it out, this will really help you with the foundation you'll have from chapters 4 and 5 (oxygen sensors and oxygen sensor testing). The widebands are a bit different, same stuff with the heater, but no real manual signal circuit tests as they operate in a 4 milliamp range between full rich and full lean. All scan tool tests once you've confirmed heater operation. You'll like this video!
Great video, Thanks for sharing! I think you only had 1 key programmed, and the way you add more keys to this type of system is to cycle the working key and then cycle all the keys you want to program. I think you inadvertently programmed all the keys. 😀
Lol😂 same exact as your truck so funny I'm grateful I can enjoy these on premium and you tube when I drive my hour to work! Thanks Paul for the extra lol. Your boy Bill in Columbus Ohio
Really Cool, Thanks for sharing SD👍🏻 Very interesting, these fuse boxes just go bad very easily not a good design😇 Special Thanks to Caleb Danner😎 Stay Blessed Guy's❤️
Paul Idk if you’ve ever pulled apart any GM fuse boxes after replacing them. They use a scotch lock type connection with a single wire pierce between two blades to connect the shared power sources together. Pretty Mickey Mouse imo.
I have a 2014 2500hd and had to replace my fuse box. ($600). I took the old one apart and found the pins that hold the fuses were pushed open to where it barely made contact. I just squeezed them back together and voila
It takes more than 1 minute and a door opening cycle to clear out the vats system and prevent the key from the registration m. I ve also had multiple keys on the samme keyring stil pickup the good working key even though the one in the ignition switch is not a good key
very fine mist salt spray from the roadways gets in and corrodes everything, nobody ever cleans or maintains them. hose them down monthly with wd40, to where it's pouring out of the box bottom everywhere. that flushes the nasties out of everything, and keeps the corrosion at bay. you have to start doing that form new/replacement box though. the fuses are part to blame due to material composition. probably plated aluminum tabs....
Those theft codes means someone cleared all keys, once you restored power you programed the first key. Then when you tried all 4 keys in a row, you unknowingly added the 3 other keys. On GM you can reprogram existing keys back to the same module..
That clunking/clicking sounds like a starter that does not want to turn. That's what I would chase. I have a buddy that works on landscape trucks. He calls me in on the electrical headaches. It's usually a fun/challenging time. They outsourced the repair on one particular truck. That shop ran up the bill to $1500 and recommended they scrap the truck. 😂 I got my hands on it, the wire on the starter was corroded off it (solenoid to motor), the shifter was so sloppy it didn't hit park all the time and the shop that looked over it never put an ECM fuse back into it.🙃
Man, that's wild. And typical in a lot of fields of repair. HVAC guy charged my neighbor $310 to come replace wire from cap to contactor. It ran 2 days and quit again. She called me for advice. I'm a 78yo retiree, not HVAC person, I looked, saw the contactor burned out, got her a new one for $17, and it is running perfectly now 2 months later. Makes one hesitant to call a "professional" for any repair.
@@ScannerDanner your repair of the fuse was spot on and the primary issue. When you went to start the truck post fuse and you got the clunk, that is what I am speaking of. On the video, that sounded like not enough power to the starter motor.
Often times the transceiver is only looking for the key for a few seconds. So the second time you tried the key on and immediately bypassed the fuse, may have something to do with it. Maybe not though. Not sure if it finds the key and just acknowledged it in definitely.
I'm just wondering if that initial no crank was just the starter frozen up since it sat for God knows how long? Maybe hitting it with the ignition several times eventually worked it free???
The Stabilitrak issue with GM 2007+ is a very common problem. Throws the Stabilitrak message up on the dash and often goes into limp mode limiting power and max speed to a very low speed. I've seen threads on message boards for it with hundreds of pages of people saying they had the same problem and all the parts the dealer replaced including but not limited to throttle body, accelerator pedal, lifters, cam, battery cables, steering angle sensor, crank and cam sensors, etc. I've never once seen it solved until now. Could it be that this is the cause for most or all of GM Stabilitrak related electrical problems? I knew it must be a wiring issue/can issue. I had an 07 Silverado myself that randomly had the Stabilitrak message come on and I never did figure it out either.
I also had the very common headlight issue where the drivers headlight wouldn't come on anymore and it wasn't the bulb. I've seen a lot of Silverados with the drivers headlight not working. Pulled the connector and it was extremely corroded. Managed to clean it all out and got it working again. 😊
@ScannerDanner I did add the tool to my arsenal. The scope is not wireless, I haven't actually tried it yet either as I am just used to grabbing my Snap-On when I need a scope. Thank you for your reply!
Was that not the starter clicking initially? Thats what it sounded like to me, indicating the command/circuit was in tact and may have been corrosion in the starter contacts from sitting?
@ScannerDanner aaaahhh, I see! Good deal, thanks for the quick reply. I was wondering, like how could he miss that. Just going by the sound fooled me lol great work as always, thanks for sharing!
Here is the missing footage! ua-cam.com/video/CieIPtiiW3Q/v-deo.htmlsi=NTkZ9M-WEa6dQ9Pk I'm so sorry this got cut out by accident in our condensed version of this case study
To add a key manually for GM keyed ignition you just have to:
1) Turn ignition to run with working key
2) Turn ignition to off and remove key
3) Insert new key to be programmed and turn to run position
I believe previously learned keys can be relearned.
So you may have been learning those previously unlearned keys back to the vehicle.
I was going to comment that he probably programmed the remaining keys
Came here for this comment 100% true
Don't these trucks start but die with an unprogrammed key ?
Works for many gm vehicles with keys😊
You have a great relationship with your son and it makes these videos all that much more fun to watch. Nicely done Dad.
thank you!
I really screwed up on posting this condensed version here on YT (its 27 minutes long on my website). We accidentally cut out some key pieces of info. And I'm hearing this from many of you, because you believe the starter solenoid was what was making that clicking noise. It wasn’t! And i showed all of the control side tests of the starter relay and we were missing control from the ECM because of the immobilizer issue, but its not there! Holy crap, what a huge mistake! Im so sorry to those of you questioning things and im like, oh yeah, didnt you see me do that test? Meanwhile, no, you havent. 😢😢
Should i have Caleb rework this so you can see it? Damn
EDIT:
I'll put the full 27 minute video up on here soon. I'm so sorry again. You'll understand why when you see it.
Don't worry about it! I didn't even question it because you say right at the start. It was just being done quick and dirty to help out someone you know.
Got it running with all 4 keys = Done
Plus, a great laugh at a glitch in the matrix = almost identical failures so close together.
P.S. I really like his tattoo.
I think people can just go pay $11 a month and see the full video and all of your other great content!
@@frugalprepper they can, but I can't leave out a key piece of info and then act like people should know it was never a starter issue too. One poor guy I was like "did you comment before watching the full video".
It really changed the dynamics of the entire thing. And my reply to that guy was super douchie with that missing data!
Thanks though man. It really means a lot.
Another great video Paul. GM and fuses unbelievable 😂. You taught us great fundamentals over the years. The blueprint to success. Thank you!
Thank you my friend. Blueprint is all we need right? I don't have all the answers but I certainly have the fundamentals for someone to learn from so they can then take off from there. Appreciate your comment
The fuses were corroded because that fuse block cover was left off and got wet. You can tell my looking at the top of the fuse block. Very common especially since the covers on those years of trucks have to positioned properly to get them to snap into position on both sides.
“There’s four keys here and they all turn it” typical Chevrolet 😂
My key comes out while running. 😅
My key can come out with the truck running. 2000 Silverado 313k miles
@justinballard7242 same, in my gas 2500 i can start it and take out the key. And drive and all.
-Keith here. I just want to take a moment to shout out to Paul for taking the time to defend me to the keyboard warriors quick to comment on things they do not know. Scanner Danner is a fantastic teacher and I learned so much in his class. My need for his expertise and assistance is NOT a reflection of his teachings or abilities. I have been out of the field many years and electrical diag takes years to build a strong fundamental understanding. Whatever opinions some have, I respect and take criticism where given. But I do not want people to have the impression that I didn't take anything away from his class or what have you. Paul is an amazing teacher, a great friend, and one of the best men I know. Love you brother, thanks again for everything!!
Love you too man. Appreciate you commenting here. It was my hopes that you wouldn't even know about these comments. I should have thought about how this would be perceived by some, and then added comments about your path, but I really didn't think about it.
People love to assume things and state their opinions 🙄
I bought your book and watched your videos. The fundamentals of testing process and thought procedures that I have learnt have taken away the doubt when I diagnose faults.
I helped a very experienced mechanic (At least 25 years in the trade) who had a performance issue with a 1980's Lancia. He had spent nearly 2 weeks of his spare time swapping parts with no results. It took me around half an hour to find the issue and 15 minutes of that was setting up the scope and PC. My ability to solve this came form your teachings.
Funny thing is, the chap still refuses to use these techniques that he witnessed .
Keep doing what you do do.
that's so awesome man. Pinning this comment
@@ScannerDanner Your welcome. Further info, It was the distributor pickup that would give out a messy signal around 2,700 rpm.
The scope confirmed it but the clue came from the Rev Counter which would suddenly start acting up at 2,700 rpm. Guess where the Rev counter got it's signal from.
Credit to you for being such a great teacher.
@@Byzmax nice!
Testing for a 5v reference shows us once again how valuable this test is for direction!
This is a condensed version of an SD Premium case study that we released to our members a few weeks ago. www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
That 5v reff truck has saved my ass as a marine mechanic love how much I can apply auto theory and what I find on your channel to the marine field comes it hand so much lol
That's so awesome man. I hear from many different trades! So cool to see how it all applies
@@ScannerDanner it awesome to still learn diff tricks years after schooling I always watch your stuff to keep concepts and theory in my head fresh. Always look forward to a new video coming out
This is good. I was working on a VW Jetta yesterday which had an intermittent no start. Checked codes and found reference voltage b voltage open. Checked fuses, found one that was broken but bridged with a wire. Changed it and the car hasn't given the client any problem. I learnt the test procedure from you. Great work
awesome! 5v ref circuit test for the win again! Thanks for sharing
Awesome video. I became a huge scope enthusiast because of your videos. I work in emergency power generation and scopes have made me really enjoy my profession. In industrial generation equipment we do not have the best scan tools. Over the past few years I have purchased almost every scope and scan tool available ( sometimes doubles ) because I enjoy using them. I would of never thought a tool could restore the passion I have had for diagnostics. Thanks to you I have found joy in and out of work.
That is truly awesome! Thank you so much for this comment
I'm becoming a Professional Auto Electrician because of your videos, Thanks Forever❤❤
I love the on-site diagnostic videos !! Great job Paul and Caleb!!
I find that things seem to happen in threes. I won't see a clutch job forever then I see several in a row. Keep up the good work 😃
great video, great camera work showing scanner data, was so clear to see, good job Caleb
Caleb is the man! Thank you!
What I have learned as a tech is that trouble comes in threes, prepare for another GM fusebox failure within the next couple weeks. Great video as always.
Always a humble repair. Great lessons here in this new video.
Always a good Saturday or Sunday when Paul uploads. My mom has been on your forum for years
that's awesome, thank you!
I've liked the relationship between you guys in the video. Keep up the spirit with your students.
I agree, the 5V reference test is probably one of the easiest and fastest to get a roadmap in your head. Live and learn! 😀
(Might want to get a bunch of those fuse boxes at the Junk yard and open a fuse box repair business.)
I love how energetic he is about this stuff I need friend like that
Believe it or not I had a fuse disintegrate like that on my tractor, now it’s the first thing I look for. Can’t ask for a unhappy better ending to an auction purchase! Nice work Paul!
Mister you are my best teacher. You teach me a lot of things
I took a fifteen year break from the trade to open a comic book store and raise my kids in it. I sold it a couple of years ago and now my sons want to open a repair shop with me. I'm glad to see that after so many years, the basics are still the basics and fundamentals are mostly the same.
No way! Not again!😂😂 another great video Paul. 5v ref test is the best start point for diag direction.
it really is!!
Great video Paul and Caleb. Another GM fuse box bites the dust, you have to love the corrosion here in the rust belt. God Bless.
Excellent lesson ! It shows the immense benefits that sticking to a methodological troubleshooting process provides . Follow the evidence -starting with the simple remedies ; and , if needed , go onto to more complex . That 5 V check is terrific !
thank you so much! Great compliment
Quick as I can make this: Our fleet vehicles are mostly Chevy 3500 express vans. Mine had a check engine light on for over 4 years. It had the engine replaced (washed out cam on cylinder 2) with a new crate engine along with new complete exhaust (cats and all). The check engine light stayed off for almost 2 work days. With in 6k miles, it was having issues and fleet pulled codes for key ID (1 time) and misfires on 1,3,5,7 cylinders and CO2 sensor. Cleared the codes and it ran fine. They ordered a new key and switch and I continued running it (no spares available). Of course it ran fine until the weekend, then it started running rough. I pulled the codes with my own cheap scanner from Autozone. No key code, but same 1,3,5,7 misfire codes and CO2 sensor. I cleared them, ran fine. The following morning, ran fine until I got out of my subdivision and then acted like it was running on 4 cylinders (because it was). Since it was a Saturday and after some phone calls it was determined a spare was not available nor was able to get to one, I started trying to figure it out. The only place it made sense for all four odd cylinders to loose ignition was the fuse box. I have a complete electronics lab at my house (my other channel is all about electronics repair, so fixing a broken circuit should be a piece of cake). I had power at the fuse on both sides, so I pulled the fuse box to see what I could find. I had resistance (9ohms) from the fuse out to harness pins on the bottom. I spent the day removing, jumping traces, installing, reading codes and taking it back out. Every time I pulled the panel, another trace would loosen at a solder joint and start throwing new codes. When it was all said and done, it ran with no codes. I drove it around the block a couple of times and it didn't have any faults and actually ran better than it ever has since I was assigned it almost 5 years ago. That said, I didn't trust the fuse box any further than I could throw it, but we had a diagnostic that fit. I was told to drive it in (didn't want to, btw). It died once while I was in the gas station. I had no crank when I tried to start it again. Poking around in fuse box, I found a janky connection on the ECM battery fuse. As soon as pushed it, solenoids staring clicking and the van made happy van noises. Started right back up, no codes, no rough running. It ran fine. In fact, it ran perfect for about 40 miles and then it was like someone turned off the key. Only this time, no pushing or wiggling of the ECM fuse (or any other for that matter) would get it running again. Fleet brought the new panel and stuck it in on the side of the road. It started, ran like garbage and died. Repeat, same result. Had it towed back to fleet and spent a few hours trouble shooting. Now, I'm not a fleet mechanic. But I was invested at this point. We had spark, we had fuel. We could not get it to even think about catching. The next day, it was sent out of house to GM 40 minutes away and it spent about a week there. I was convinced it was electrical and was afraid that janky ECM battery connection had damaged the ECM. I was wrong (write that down, I don't have to say it often). It wound up being plugged cats. They couldn't get to start either, until the took the CO2 sensors out. Fired right up. They replaced both cats and installed that key switch (remember that from an hour ago?) and it has run perfect ever since. Point is, if the fuses are corroded like that, I highly recommend replacing the fuse box as it is pretty likely got more than a few bad solder joints (and there is no easy way of separating the PCBs and I have all the tools to do it). I am guessing, even though it looked electrical, the cats would not have fouled out if the odd bank circuit would have been solid. The cats alone were 4100.00. Hope that story helps somebody. I found your video on the same fuse box the night after I got it running, so I'm going to copy and paste this "book" I just wrote over there.
Nice video. Got an early 2000s park avenue at the shop with some similar stuff going on. No crank/ no start. Found a rodent chewed wire under underhood fuse block that was control for ignition 1 relay. Missed it the first time because like a dummy i didnt load the circuit. Still not cranking but we will get it there! 10 years in the field and been watching before then and always learn something. Thanks
Being from Quebec where rust and corrosion is a major issue, I recognize the sound the starter was doing. It was stuck. The multiple attempts to crank finally freed it up. Very common issue here on vehicles that are parked for a while including stuck alternators (specially on fords and jeeps).
That starter was not being energized by the ECM
The clicking we heard was an aftermarket solenoid for a plow or spreader or PTO
@@ScannerDanner Ah, I see, sounded like a bendix poking out but not turning on youtube.
@@1202Sid I'm so sorry, I cut a piece out of this video that covers this! It's missing! I'm so sorry. Updating soon with the full 27 minute video.
Great job, but once again you followed the whole diagnostic process and in doing that it does not matter who the manufacturer is. Thanks for another great video.
Caleb/Paul,
Great video, diag, and fix - thank you!
Paul (in MA)
Paul, another great video. The symptoms that you were receiving is a combination between a very corroded fuse box and likely the cables or starter. Reason why I state that is because in those years the pats system was in the key unlike the earlier years when they were in the column.
Another words, when you were first cranking it. The starter was hung up very likely to corrosion.
Because the ECM was not communicating with the BCM it threw a code for the transponder system. It was simply by pure luck as you crank it over with multiple keys finally made contact with the starter. That’s my humble opinion from 3000 miles away.
I would replace fuse box (very common problem) and check the connections to the starter system for corrosion. Ron
did you comment before watching the rest? It definitely was not a starter cable or battery issue in any way. The clicking we were hearing was not from the starting system but some aftermarket accessory
EDIT: your comment was perfect. I'm so sorry, this video is missing some key stuff that got cut. Updating this soon
EDIT AGAIN:
Man what a douchebag comment this was by me!!. I read the first part and commented and didn't read the rest. And it was all completely my fault. I'm so sorry man. And this was an awesome compliment. Completely embarrassed is not even close to how I feel right now
@@ScannerDanner I am so very sorry buddy. I was NOT intending to correct you by any means. Perhaps I didn't hear you mention any aftermarket parts. I did watch the whole video. My grand kids were running around when I was watching. I very likely didn't hear you say anything about aftermarket accessories. I do remember you had questioned the security system. seeing you try all the keys and all of a sudden the last one worked for you with the white tag. You are amazing to watch. The way you handle issues and being very down to earth about things is great.
Ever sense I started watching your videos I have shared it with everyone I know. Truth be told Eric O is the one that referred me to your channel. Again. I will watch it again. I am truly sorry. Ron
@@ronhannink1968 no man, I'm sorry too, I didn't mean that to sound that way. It's all good! I was missing control side power on that starter relay right? I'm pretty sure I was. And then I cranked the engine over by jumping the load side contacts with that tool. I'm sorry it's been awhile, but I'm pretty sure that's how it went
Dude! I screwed up big time in the edits on this one. We ran this video on my website and it's 27 minutes long and we condensed it for here and we cut out the parts I'm mentioning to you! So I have you to thank for pointing out this error!!! I'm going to run the full length one here too. There's no other way yo fix this goof now.
I'm getting a lot of these comments and it didn't click until yours and I just went back to watch and it's not there!! Smh, I really messed up man. I'll make it right for you guys and bring that video over from my website
@@ScannerDanner I appreciate it. No worries my man. I didn't want to offend you. I look forward to watching the whole video.
However, here is a perfect example how we are simply human. You very much rock. I am very interested in joining your premium channel.
Love the smiles on you guys's face.
A teacher like you is worth it....
and gaining a friend like Keith is even better!
Mr scanner daner that was your charm. That made the car run
Hello from Finland. In time frame 8:28, Ignition must be on before to start engine. That's why the car didn't start, because you only controlled the starter motor. Your videos are very interesting and instructive.
Remember that video Eric did on that black Silverado. Where the 2amp fuse was blown. He replaced fuse. With the key on, still no crank no start. But shut the key off and back on. The truck fired up. Needed a fuse box. Great job
Bless I'm glad you did a favor for a friend because you did a favor for your subscribers.
Thanks 😊
Thank you! I heard "auction" and that it was an hour from my house and my frist thoughts were "heck no" lol
Glad I did. And I couldn't day no to Keith! He is a super close friend these days. Not just a former student
Excellent, it reminds me of the passlock system. 👌
Danner always gives you the impression he is still suprised by certain vehicle foibles rather than "Oh I Knew That Or This Etc Already) always learning top honest no BS great character kinda guy
It's different for me these days as I literally don't touch any cars off camera! So the volume isn't there like it used to be, for me to be able to say those kinds of things. So I am genuinely seeing things for the first time these days! 😄
Thank you very much for your words. It means a lot. Great start to my day!
Good Job Danner!! Now we need a follow-up video on why the design of the fuse box sucks. So many corrosion problems with vehicles in the Rust belt for example even before this kind of stupid stuff.
So a fuse repair and a key learn that happened from cycling the known good key then the others that had been cut for it and not programmed.
That was a good deal at the auction! Scanner Danner is on it!
I just received the book that i purchase from you Paul and im excited to up my knowledge by your help,you are a gift my friend thank you from Canada.
Thank you so much Michael! Really appreciate the support and I know you will benefit too.
@@ScannerDanner for sure it already benefit me reading your book for just 10min about O2 sensors and it gave me a good understanding of the sensors that I'm currently diagnosing for 2007 Honda fit, so excited for this thanks again Paul.
@@michaelbuenvenida8473 I have a recent video on a Honda wideband in this year range ua-cam.com/video/CPsvgbCOdvo/v-deo.html
Check it out, this will really help you with the foundation you'll have from chapters 4 and 5 (oxygen sensors and oxygen sensor testing). The widebands are a bit different, same stuff with the heater, but no real manual signal circuit tests as they operate in a 4 milliamp range between full rich and full lean. All scan tool tests once you've confirmed heater operation. You'll like this video!
@@ScannerDanner thank you so much I will surely watch this video's🙏
Great video, Thanks for sharing! I think you only had 1 key programmed, and the way you add more keys to this type of system is to cycle the working key and then cycle all the keys you want to program. I think you inadvertently programmed all the keys. 😀
I believe you are correct!
Loved it working on Sunday huh.
Paul, your videos are the best... I always enjoy watching 👍👍👍
Glad you like them! Thank you!
That was a nice diag Paul!
Lol😂 same exact as your truck so funny I'm grateful I can enjoy these on premium and you tube when I drive my hour to work! Thanks Paul for the extra lol. Your boy Bill in Columbus Ohio
Thank you Bill!
Really Cool, Thanks for sharing SD👍🏻
Very interesting, these fuse boxes just go bad very easily not a good design😇
Special Thanks to Caleb Danner😎
Stay Blessed Guy's❤️
Paul,you help a young boy .perfect 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻.😊
Wooo cool 😎 👌 👍 bud
Paul Idk if you’ve ever pulled apart any GM fuse boxes after replacing them. They use a scotch lock type connection with a single wire pierce between two blades to connect the shared power sources together. Pretty Mickey Mouse imo.
Once again win for the Danner
Awesome video man thank you thank you for for helping him out. You’re a very good friend.
That was educational.. thanks from Vietnam
Awesome video like always
Having a similar issue with no comm on a 07 gm 6.6
What scanner are you using here?
Topdon Phoenix Max thanks!
another well done job danner!!
Funny and educational at the same time
Paul , we from stupid governed countries thank you and thank million times for the info
MBS moshitoa 🇿🇦
Mr Danner is awesome
Always learn something from you!
Been waiting for some new material. Excellent thanks
there is always new material on my website 😉 540 videos and counting
Great job👍👍
I work on auction cars and wrecked cars, fix them and sell em! Ive ran into some wild stuff with them! Some simple some absolute head scratchers
You performed the theft deterrent 😊relearn by using the non programmed keys within 10 seconds of using a good key.
Frame 6:28 love it!!!
Dam u good
“You calling in the wolf?!!” 👊 (pulp fiction)
Awesome video.
Is there a semi truck version of you out there? We could really use the help.
My gm's are the same Era and the chip in the key is rfid, very short range.
Experience diagnosis master nice video mui bueno master
Hey Paul i got an envoy denali with the same issue and opened the fuse box and one of the copper tracks was unsoldered from fatigue
Always save the old PCM and etc if feasible.
Sometimes you may need it if you have to write those codes to another module!
Well said!!
Thnak you so much for another great video
I have a 2014 2500hd and had to replace my fuse box. ($600). I took the old one apart and found the pins that hold the fuses were pushed open to where it barely made contact. I just squeezed them back together and voila
Another job well done
I can just imagine myself working on that truck,I will need a chair to stand on to reach the fuse box😂😂😂. Thanks thats very informative
It takes more than 1 minute and a door opening cycle to clear out the vats system and prevent the key from the registration m. I ve also had multiple keys on the samme keyring stil pickup the good working key even though the one in the ignition switch is not a good key
What's a big problem with this GM fuse box really?!!! I think they must fix this fuse box issue and corrosion issue too. Thanks for this video
very fine mist salt spray from the roadways gets in and corrodes everything, nobody ever cleans or maintains them. hose them down monthly with wd40, to where it's pouring out of the box bottom everywhere. that flushes the nasties out of everything, and keeps the corrosion at bay. you have to start doing that form new/replacement box though. the fuses are part to blame due to material composition. probably plated aluminum tabs....
What scantool are you using that it shows the topology of the canbus network? Looks great
Topdon Pheonix Max
Great job finding ANOTHER corroded up GM fuse block!
Curious, what kind of scan tool were you using?
This was the Topdon Phoenix Max. Check out this missing footage ua-cam.com/video/CieIPtiiW3Q/v-deo.html
Nice
Those theft codes means someone cleared all keys, once you restored power you programed the first key. Then when you tried all 4 keys in a row, you unknowingly added the 3 other keys. On GM you can reprogram existing keys back to the same module..
That clunking/clicking sounds like a starter that does not want to turn. That's what I would chase.
I have a buddy that works on landscape trucks. He calls me in on the electrical headaches. It's usually a fun/challenging time. They outsourced the repair on one particular truck. That shop ran up the bill to $1500 and recommended they scrap the truck. 😂 I got my hands on it, the wire on the starter was corroded off it (solenoid to motor), the shifter was so sloppy it didn't hit park all the time and the shop that looked over it never put an ECM fuse back into it.🙃
Man, that's wild. And typical in a lot of fields of repair. HVAC guy charged my neighbor $310 to come replace wire from cap to contactor. It ran 2 days and quit again. She called me for advice. I'm a 78yo retiree, not HVAC person, I looked, saw the contactor burned out, got her a new one for $17, and it is running perfectly now 2 months later. Makes one hesitant to call a "professional" for any repair.
but it wasn't that at all! The starting system was not the issue (load side of it anyway)
@@ScannerDanner your repair of the fuse was spot on and the primary issue. When you went to start the truck post fuse and you got the clunk, that is what I am speaking of. On the video, that sounded like not enough power to the starter motor.
@@mph5896 that cluck was there from the get go. I think it was an aftermarket solenoid for maybe a plow or spredder?
@@ScannerDanner Gochya. 👍
Hey paul do you have diag must haves for tools? I like that relay breakout box and bypass.
Also do you have affiliate links for websites like aeswave?
Yes! It's in the description
Or here
www.aeswave.com/scannerdanner
Thank you!
👍 thanks for sharing
I warned you on yours Paul. This is the path yours is heading down. 😂😂😂
Often times the transceiver is only looking for the key for a few seconds. So the second time you tried the key on and immediately bypassed the fuse, may have something to do with it. Maybe not though. Not sure if it finds the key and just acknowledged it in definitely.
My 2016 at 23,000 miles needed a fuse box under warranty!
damn. Rust belt?
I'm just wondering if that initial no crank was just the starter frozen up since it sat for God knows how long? Maybe hitting it with the ignition several times eventually worked it free???
There was missing footage
ua-cam.com/video/CieIPtiiW3Q/v-deo.html
Check it out! Thanks!
Is there really a safe place to put the fuse box in any vehicle?
Inside the fuel tank.. There's not usually water in there.
The Stabilitrak issue with GM 2007+ is a very common problem. Throws the Stabilitrak message up on the dash and often goes into limp mode limiting power and max speed to a very low speed. I've seen threads on message boards for it with hundreds of pages of people saying they had the same problem and all the parts the dealer replaced including but not limited to throttle body, accelerator pedal, lifters, cam, battery cables, steering angle sensor, crank and cam sensors, etc. I've never once seen it solved until now.
Could it be that this is the cause for most or all of GM Stabilitrak related electrical problems? I knew it must be a wiring issue/can issue. I had an 07 Silverado myself that randomly had the Stabilitrak message come on and I never did figure it out either.
I also had the very common headlight issue where the drivers headlight wouldn't come on anymore and it wasn't the bulb. I've seen a lot of Silverados with the drivers headlight not working. Pulled the connector and it was extremely corroded. Managed to clean it all out and got it working again. 😊
What diagnostic tool are you using Dan? You normally use snap on dude . What tool is that one ?
My name is Paul Danner 😉
And the scan tool I'm using is the Topdon Phoenix Max
I am considering buying the Phoenix Max, is the scope wireless or does it need to be plugged into the scanner?
I haven't even tried using it yet. I'm sorry
@ScannerDanner I did add the tool to my arsenal. The scope is not wireless, I haven't actually tried it yet either as I am just used to grabbing my Snap-On when I need a scope. Thank you for your reply!
great job again! BTW what tool are you using to crank the engine remotely?
It's called a uActivate and you can get it here. Thanks!
www.aeswave.com/scannerdanner
Paul with CAN data lines do the manufactures dedicate these for generally for computer management systems?
You means the standard pins 6 and 14 for the high speed powertrain CAN systems?
Was that not the starter clicking initially? Thats what it sounded like to me, indicating the command/circuit was in tact and may have been corrosion in the starter contacts from sitting?
Watch this!! That wasn't the starter clicking
ua-cam.com/video/CieIPtiiW3Q/v-deo.html
@ScannerDanner aaaahhh, I see! Good deal, thanks for the quick reply. I was wondering, like how could he miss that. Just going by the sound fooled me lol great work as always, thanks for sharing!
Now that Ive watched this video I bet I run into one just like it in the next month LOL
Haha that's the way it goes right?
This was really funny😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂theres four different keys and they all crank it😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂