Once again, huge shout-out goes to Induction Innovations for sending us this Mini-Ductor Venom HP to use in our videos! If you'd like to check out their website, social media, or any of their products, here's where you can find them; Visit their website at www.theINDUCTOR.com or call them toll-free at 877-688-9633 to find a dealer near you! Here's the link for their full product line of Mini-Ductor models: www.theinductor.com/induction-heater-tools/mini-ductor/models As well as a link to all the accessories they offer: www.theinductor.com/induction-heater-tools-store/mini-ductor-accessories UA-cam: ua-cam.com/users/InvisibleHeat Facebook: facebook.com/InductionInnovations/ Instagram: instagram.com/induction_innovations Twitter: twitter.com/invisibleheat
Years ago I made a “wheel puller” with two independently sliding threaded studs that can be placed through two opposed holes that you drill through the wheel and then using hex nuts on the backside of the wheel to transfer pulling force to the wheel. It works similar to a gear puller in that the center hub, which is also threaded, can be brought to bear on the end of the axle. That puller along with some penetrating oil has not failed to removed to remove some heavily rusted snowblower wheels. The two holes through the web of the wheel do not compromise the wheels integrity if you are wondering. If you make one of these make sure you use a fine thread on the center hub as the fine threads have more holding power and resistance to stripping, the same reason gear pullers have a fine thread at this location. Your videos are very clear and to the point with no ramblings and because of that have caused me to subscribe. If you were my student teacher you’d be earning an “A”. P.S. If you continue to beat on those axle ends, might I suggest a lead hammer that you can recast and use over and over and prevent mushrooming of the axle end. A lead hammer is the original “dead blow hammer” and works far better than those plastic coated shot filled ones you can buy.
Going to invest in a brass hammer, not the lead center ones, looking for a quality solid head. I'm glad we got it free in the end. Thanks for watching!
That is a nice tool for sure. I would like to try one out. I always use oxy acetylene in my shop, more work and more dangerous. Thanks for the video. Bob
Great video as always. Interesting tool. Thanks for reviewing. I had a seized snowblower wheel last year. Since I had time, I soaked it in PB Blaster for several days (a couple sprays a day for a few days). Once I got it off, I took your advice and made sure to put on the nickel anti-seize.
That video was two years ago?? Boy, I guess I’ve been subbed for a while. Great vid as usual. I especially like when that nickel anti seize gets on my hands. That’s my favorite cause it comes right off………….great vid again
That is amazing! I sure would love to have one of these around the shop. I had to end up cutting a wheel off an old tiller the other day. This may have brought a different outcome. Thanks for sharing!
There is definitely a higher entry cost to using a product like this, but over time I believe this product would offset oxy-acetylene costs, and eventually pay for itself. If you watch that video I linked at the end, I've had to cut axles in the past as well. Thanks for watching!
Ive also had to cut the axle aswell on a snowblower. This tool would have done me wonders . Definitely need one but its way to expensive. I know they do have cheaper ones but this venom one looks so cool . This video is awesome. Thanks for sharing
They're really good Don, and once you figure out all the little uses they work amazing. Stuck drive pulleys on riding Lawnmowers are a breeze with this unit!
Good job and you improved my enlightenment about the workings of induction. I would have preferred that you stuck with the wheel / tire / twist method by possibly using a strap and lever. Pounding on that axle can distort it along the shaft and contribute to seizing..
@@FixItWithMe I have old movers straps I use for a variety of tasks. A lever may be something as small as a screwdriver or a tire iron or pry bar as necessary.
The Mini Ductor Venom HP does the job as advertised and since your first video on using it has been used several other times especially for mower blade nut or bolt removal. It is an excellent tool to use for bolts with red Locktite the heat is needed to get them out easier. As Bruce said it also helps prevent melting seals on the transmissions. Another good one buddy.
My wheels are seized on my 180 John Deere. They has been since i got it. I am considering getting one of these. I worry about the seal on the trans as the tube on the wheel is only 1/2 inch from the trans. Roadking says the file is your friend.
Gotta love working with metal, you can always shape and form it (to an extent) and when that doesn't work, simply remove material! Remove too much, hey, get the welder! Yes, these tools work great, costly, but as I've mentioned previously, will eventually pay for themselves. And yes, just like removing blade adapters on push mowers, I too worry about thermal radiation melting a seal. You can get some insulating material perhaps, and also a wet rag. This one took some time, but in the end, I managed to free it up. Thanks for watching Bruce!
Yes I'm really enjoying using this induction heating tool, honestly makes things so much easier, and it's very simple to use. Plug it in, pull the trigger, and within a few seconds things are hot. I understand there is a higher entry cost to using a product like this, but it would offset oxy-acetylene costs, and eventually pay for itself. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video the axel looks great and sure is better then a torch the one that unlike the video must b a hacker and torch guy rather make it easy yeah it looked like a challenge but at the end of the day nothing was butchered great job jake
No I have not, but I may try it out. I hear quenching works great, however, it also makes the metal brittle. I may look into heat treating with this tool though, as I can use it to achieve induction hardening. This may be useful at some point. Thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformanceThe higher the carbon content of the steel the more likely the quenching will impart brittleness, “tool steels” in other words. Axles and such on lawn and garden equipment are usually made of what is commonly referred to as “mild steels” and have very little harden ability.
Absolutely yes, induction heat is simply a substitute for using a torch. Instead of burning an oxy-acetylene gas mix, I simply plug this tool into an electrical socket, and it works right away. This video simply demonstrates the technology. Thanks for watching!
You may consider a 50/50 mixture of Acetone and Trans Fluid as a penetrant. I found it to work very well with continued saturation. Of course, it's not a cure-all but I found it to work the best for metals that are fused together.
These tools work great. Probably about an hour, but I was filming so it always takes longer when I'm doing that. This one was seized up pretty good. Sometimes I need the hydraulic press, they just don't want to come loose. Thanks for watching!
No, still need the heat and the force. That's why I always recommend using antiseize on 1 axle, if the other wheel is seized. As long as you can pull the axle out 1 way, it'll allow you to work on it like I have here.
Awesome video . I have actually used a torch and got the drive shaft to move but i also cracked the rim and then it was no good . With using a torch and a hammer lol .
Bought a used simplicity snowblower 5/20...not running and it looks like there is not enough room for float to let gas in...its copper float ..can you tell me if float was originally plastic ? And thank you ...your video's are very helpful
So much repetitive chatter. Power wire brush the axle first. Try a pointed air chisel once it moves along with lubricant. I have had to cut the axle in the middle and make a coupling with Roll Pins to hold it back together to change out bearings. In a pinch, rotate the ovaled bearings with the newer side on top. That will tighten chain/gears. Great Induction Kit. How much does it cost?
I live in Alaska and this bad boy just ripped threw 14" of snow like it was nothing. For under 200$ it's a must if your looking to get the job done and save a buck!
Mr Induction only heats the area it is applied to and does it very quickly. Much more refined and controllable than those two roughnecks Oxygen and Acetylene.
You are mushrooming the end of shaft. A faster and better way is to use about a 5/16" - 3/8" drill to dimple end of shaft. Now take an impact chisel with a blunt point put it in to dimple in axle, now it won't slip off. Impact vibration will beak rust and drive right out. I've been doing this for about 50 years on all stuck shafts, snow blowers, tractor wheels, pulleys of all types. It works, try it in your next video. Don't have to disassemble everything, finished in 1/4 the time.
Thanks for the recommendation. We have a non marring brass hammer now that does the job, but we'll try the dimple and air hammer next. Thanks for watching!
Uncle Dave, do you use a pneumatic air hammer? Do you have any idea whether a battery powered SDS hammer drill would generate enough impact to loosen the rust? Thanks for any insight.
@@richardfreshour5711 Air chisels are best, they give a quicker more rapid blows per second. This action is what helps break the rust not always the force of each blow. Have used electric Bosch hammer Drill on hammer mode with some success.
@@uncledave56 need help on my Troy bilt storm 24” snowblower, the axle has thread and there’s a threaded bolt that hold the wheel. So I cannot use air hammer , any suggestion? Thanks
One of two things to try. First find a long bolt that screws all the way in then hammer on that. Second find a long punch that fits inside of threaded hole in axle and bottoms out in hole and hit on that, might bend because it's a small diameter and not very strong.@@nilolee2426
ever try holding a heavy mall against one side of the outer shaft---and hit other side with another heavy hammer. Work all around it! ..it breaks the rust inside! works great on big or small nuts. then wrench or impact spins them right off.
Absolutely yes, induction heat is simply a substitute for using a torch. Instead of burning an oxy-acetylene gas mix, and having to transport tanks to fill, I simply plug this tool into an electrical socket, and it works right away. While the entry cost is higher, eventually this product will pay for itself. Thanks for watching!
For spark plugs, I recommend to use copper antiseize , just a dab, on any equipment that will be used outdoors in the rain or snow. Especially if you store that equipment outdoors!
Yes, there is a higher entry cost when comparing to oxy-acetylene torch kits. However, there is no need for gas, so you don't have to transport tanks to get them filled. No costs for consumables other than the coils you need.
Wow, great way to remove a stuck wheel. But the cheapest induction tool is $500, not a cost efftive option for someone who spent near that much on a used Go-kart. For a small business that does this type of work, the cost of tool is justified.
@@MarioIArguello yea we use it all the time, especially for seized nuts on riding lawn mowers that hold the blades on. Works wonders and doesn't start fires with an open flame near all the dried grass.
Next time your hammering an axle like that put a piece of hard wood on the surface your hitting and hammer on the wood , it won't mushroom your axle like that
Venom HP unboxing video: ua-cam.com/video/YwaMzpVNlUU/v-deo.html Why you want to use anti-seize on your wheels/drive axle: ua-cam.com/video/EMyPIgna53E/v-deo.html
Once again, huge shout-out goes to Induction Innovations for sending us this Mini-Ductor Venom HP to use in our videos!
If you'd like to check out their website, social media, or any of their products, here's where you can find them;
Visit their website at www.theINDUCTOR.com or call them toll-free at 877-688-9633 to find a dealer near you!
Here's the link for their full product line of Mini-Ductor models: www.theinductor.com/induction-heater-tools/mini-ductor/models
As well as a link to all the accessories they offer: www.theinductor.com/induction-heater-tools-store/mini-ductor-accessories
UA-cam: ua-cam.com/users/InvisibleHeat
Facebook: facebook.com/InductionInnovations/
Instagram: instagram.com/induction_innovations
Twitter: twitter.com/invisibleheat
Years ago I made a “wheel puller” with two independently sliding threaded studs that can be placed through two opposed holes that you drill through the wheel and then using hex nuts on the backside of the wheel to transfer pulling force to the wheel. It works similar to a gear puller in that the center hub, which is also threaded, can be brought to bear on the end of the axle. That puller along with some penetrating oil has not failed to removed to remove some heavily rusted snowblower wheels. The two holes through the web of the wheel do not compromise the wheels integrity if you are wondering. If you make one of these make sure you use a fine thread on the center hub as the fine threads have more holding power and resistance to stripping, the same reason gear pullers have a fine thread at this location. Your videos are very clear and to the point with no ramblings and because of that have caused me to subscribe. If you were my student teacher you’d be earning an “A”.
P.S. If you continue to beat on those axle ends, might I suggest a lead hammer that you can recast and use over and over and prevent mushrooming of the axle end. A lead hammer is the original “dead blow hammer” and works far better than those plastic coated shot filled ones you can buy.
Going to invest in a brass hammer, not the lead center ones, looking for a quality solid head. I'm glad we got it free in the end. Thanks for watching!
That is a nice tool for sure. I would like to try one out. I always use oxy acetylene in my shop, more work and more dangerous. Thanks for the video. Bob
Cheers Bob, thanks for watching!
Great video as always. Interesting tool. Thanks for reviewing. I had a seized snowblower wheel last year. Since I had time, I soaked it in PB Blaster for several days (a couple sprays a day for a few days). Once I got it off, I took your advice and made sure to put on the nickel anti-seize.
Thanks for watching!
That video was two years ago?? Boy, I guess I’ve been subbed for a while. Great vid as usual. I especially like when that nickel anti seize gets on my hands. That’s my favorite cause it comes right off………….great vid again
Thanks for watching!
That must be Chinesium Never Seize! That crap is Permanent on clothing and you just wear it off your skin.
Great job! 👍👍. I’m with you, using anti-seize saves a lot of work!
Thanks for watching!
Great video we use a very good snap on air hammer at work along with heat. The key is good hammer not a princess auto special
I'm looking for a dead blow brass hammer, hard to find now a days. Thanks for watching!
That is amazing! I sure would love to have one of these around the shop. I had to end up cutting a wheel off an old tiller the other day. This may have brought a different outcome. Thanks for sharing!
There is definitely a higher entry cost to using a product like this, but over time I believe this product would offset oxy-acetylene costs, and eventually pay for itself. If you watch that video I linked at the end, I've had to cut axles in the past as well. Thanks for watching!
Ive also had to cut the axle aswell on a snowblower. This tool would have done me wonders . Definitely need one but its way to expensive. I know they do have cheaper ones but this venom one looks so cool . This video is awesome. Thanks for sharing
wow I should get one one those!
They're really good Don, and once you figure out all the little uses they work amazing. Stuck drive pulleys on riding Lawnmowers are a breeze with this unit!
Good job and you improved my enlightenment about the workings of induction. I would have preferred that you stuck with the wheel / tire / twist method by possibly using a strap and lever. Pounding on that axle can distort it along the shaft and contribute to seizing..
What type of strap and lever would u recommend?
@@FixItWithMe I have old movers straps I use for a variety of tasks. A lever may be something as small as a screwdriver or a tire iron or pry bar as necessary.
The Mini Ductor Venom HP does the job as advertised and since your first video on using it has been used several other times especially for mower blade nut or bolt removal. It is an excellent tool to use for bolts with red Locktite the heat is needed to get them out easier. As Bruce said it also helps prevent melting seals on the transmissions. Another good one buddy.
Thanks for watching!
My wheels are seized on my 180 John Deere. They has been since i got it. I am considering getting one of these. I worry about the seal on the trans as the tube on the wheel is only 1/2 inch from the trans. Roadking says the file is your friend.
Gotta love working with metal, you can always shape and form it (to an extent) and when that doesn't work, simply remove material! Remove too much, hey, get the welder! Yes, these tools work great, costly, but as I've mentioned previously, will eventually pay for themselves. And yes, just like removing blade adapters on push mowers, I too worry about thermal radiation melting a seal. You can get some insulating material perhaps, and also a wet rag. This one took some time, but in the end, I managed to free it up. Thanks for watching Bruce!
Awesome little tool. Looks very handy. Might have to look into getting one. Keep up the awesome videos. Cheers
Yes I'm really enjoying using this induction heating tool, honestly makes things so much easier, and it's very simple to use. Plug it in, pull the trigger, and within a few seconds things are hot. I understand there is a higher entry cost to using a product like this, but it would offset oxy-acetylene costs, and eventually pay for itself. Thanks for watching!
Can drill 2 holes and puller on it then heat
Awesome video the axel looks great and sure is better then a torch the one that unlike the video must b a hacker and torch guy rather make it easy yeah it looked like a challenge but at the end of the day nothing was butchered great job jake
Thanks for watching Doug!
That worked well. Have you ever tried the heat and quench method with the Mini Ductor?
No I have not, but I may try it out. I hear quenching works great, however, it also makes the metal brittle. I may look into heat treating with this tool though, as I can use it to achieve induction hardening. This may be useful at some point. Thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformanceThe higher the carbon content of the steel the more likely the quenching will impart brittleness, “tool steels” in other words. Axles and such on lawn and garden equipment are usually made of what is commonly referred to as “mild steels” and have very little harden ability.
Great video, thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Any suggestions to removing wheels when both are seized?
Interesting product, but couldn’t you do that with a torch?
Absolutely yes, induction heat is simply a substitute for using a torch. Instead of burning an oxy-acetylene gas mix, I simply plug this tool into an electrical socket, and it works right away. This video simply demonstrates the technology. Thanks for watching!
Also alveus yer not melting the tire or destroying the axel
That thing gets really hot
Might buy one soon
Thank You
You may consider a 50/50 mixture of Acetone and Trans Fluid as a penetrant. I found it to work very well with continued saturation. Of course, it's not a cure-all but I found it to work the best for metals that are fused together.
Great Job.
Thanks for watching!
I have use one at work to remove for truck cabs to do engine work they work nice for that. how long did it take to remove the wheel from the axle?
These tools work great. Probably about an hour, but I was filming so it always takes longer when I'm doing that. This one was seized up pretty good. Sometimes I need the hydraulic press, they just don't want to come loose. Thanks for watching!
Would you do anything different if there was a key in there ?
No, still need the heat and the force. That's why I always recommend using antiseize on 1 axle, if the other wheel is seized. As long as you can pull the axle out 1 way, it'll allow you to work on it like I have here.
Awesome video . I have actually used a torch and got the drive shaft to move but i also cracked the rim and then it was no good . With using a torch and a hammer lol .
I'm going to invest in a brass hammer so I don't damage the steel axles
@@EliminatorPerformance yea that makes alot of sense . The mushrooming of the shaft is a buzz killl .lol
Bought a used simplicity snowblower 5/20...not running and it looks like there is not enough room for float to let gas in...its copper float
..can you tell me if float was originally plastic ? And thank you ...your video's are very helpful
Thank you it helped 100% .......
So much repetitive chatter. Power wire brush the axle first. Try a pointed air chisel once it moves along with lubricant. I have had to cut the axle in the middle and make a coupling with Roll Pins to hold it back together to change out bearings. In a pinch, rotate the ovaled bearings with the newer side on top. That will tighten chain/gears.
Great Induction Kit. How much does it cost?
I live in Alaska and this bad boy just ripped threw 14" of snow like it was nothing. For under 200$ it's a must if your looking to get the job done and save a buck!
These are never pretty situations, but you got er' done!
Thankfully, thanks for watching!
Air chisel is effective as well
Great video mate 👍👌
Thanks!
I am having the same problem. Has anyone made a new drive axle shaft from solid bar and then drill out the appropriate holes?
Good day Boy that tells me I should take my tires off before they seize on. Thanks
Absolutely, a little nickel antiseize goes a long way. Thanks for watching!
Nice tool to have!
That’s not worth fixing. How much time did you spend? Thanks from.St. Paul Minnesota.
I have a couple friends. One is named oxygen, the other is named acetylene. When they get together, things get hot. Quickly. You should meet them!
Mr Induction only heats the area it is applied to and does it very quickly. Much more refined and controllable than those two roughnecks Oxygen and Acetylene.
You are mushrooming the end of shaft. A faster and better way is to use about a 5/16" - 3/8" drill to dimple end of shaft. Now take an impact chisel with a blunt point put it in to dimple in axle, now it won't slip off. Impact vibration will beak rust and drive right out. I've been doing this for about 50 years on all stuck shafts, snow blowers, tractor wheels, pulleys of all types. It works, try it in your next video. Don't have to disassemble everything, finished in 1/4 the time.
Thanks for the recommendation. We have a non marring brass hammer now that does the job, but we'll try the dimple and air hammer next. Thanks for watching!
Uncle Dave, do you use a pneumatic air hammer? Do you have any idea whether a battery powered SDS hammer drill would generate enough impact to loosen the rust? Thanks for any insight.
@@richardfreshour5711 Air chisels are best, they give a quicker more rapid blows per second. This action is what helps break the rust not always the force of each blow. Have used electric Bosch hammer Drill on hammer mode with some success.
@@uncledave56 need help on my Troy bilt storm 24” snowblower, the axle has thread and there’s a threaded bolt that hold the wheel. So I cannot use air hammer , any suggestion? Thanks
One of two things to try. First find a long bolt that screws all the way in then hammer on that. Second find a long punch that fits inside of threaded hole in axle and bottoms out in hole and hit on that, might bend because it's a small diameter and not very strong.@@nilolee2426
A little grease or aniziese can save a lot of work
Yes definitely, thanks for watching!
ever try holding a heavy mall against one side of the outer shaft---and hit other side with another heavy hammer. Work all around it! ..it breaks the rust inside! works great on big or small nuts. then wrench or impact spins them right off.
I had that problem before the plastic sleeve was stuck to the shaft and head and held it off
Yea sometimes they can be a pain to remove, especially when adding heat and it melts the plastic sleeves. Thanks for watching!
After watching this, I went out and relubed my axle, even though I did in in the spring when I put the machine away.
Neat tool but expensive if you are not a busy shop.
Absolutely yes, induction heat is simply a substitute for using a torch. Instead of burning an oxy-acetylene gas mix, and having to transport tanks to fill, I simply plug this tool into an electrical socket, and it works right away. While the entry cost is higher, eventually this product will pay for itself. Thanks for watching!
if you use a piece of oak wood to hammer on, you will not mushroom the metal
Yes, I could also use a dead blow brass hammer. Thanks for watching!
Yeah, anti-seize to avoid this is an easy thing to do. Wheels off and paint the axle with it.
Even on spark plug threads.
For spark plugs, I recommend to use copper antiseize , just a dab, on any equipment that will be used outdoors in the rain or snow. Especially if you store that equipment outdoors!
@@EliminatorPerformance Why copper?
Cool tool but a bit spendy.
Yes, there is a higher entry cost when comparing to oxy-acetylene torch kits. However, there is no need for gas, so you don't have to transport tanks to get them filled. No costs for consumables other than the coils you need.
Invest in a press, save you lots of time repairing the axle after you peen it over, not to mention the jaw damage from the vice.
Wow, great way to remove a stuck wheel. But the cheapest induction tool is $500, not a cost efftive option for someone who spent near that much on a used Go-kart. For a small business that does this type of work, the cost of tool is justified.
@@MarioIArguello yea we use it all the time, especially for seized nuts on riding lawn mowers that hold the blades on. Works wonders and doesn't start fires with an open flame near all the dried grass.
Next time your hammering an axle like that put a piece of hard wood on the surface your hitting and hammer on the wood , it won't mushroom your axle like that
I bought a non marring brass hammer!
Just torch it a tad and air hammer faster
Heat then spray wd-40.
Venom HP unboxing video: ua-cam.com/video/YwaMzpVNlUU/v-deo.html
Why you want to use anti-seize on your wheels/drive axle: ua-cam.com/video/EMyPIgna53E/v-deo.html
I would just buy a new snow blower.