Beg to differ about the resin. I use a toothpick or an old brush to apply very thin layers and cure them one by one with a 405nm wavelength UV torch, that way it cures quickly and allows me to smoothly close those gaps and actually look more natural than with wood filler or miliput, which I also use sometimes but for other purposes.
I mostly use spackle paste(the stuff that goes in between the tiles) for drywall, it's like toothpaste consistency, the cool thing is that it's cheap, bought a container years ago and it still have enough, has no smell, can be thinned with water and also activated with water after it dries so it's easy to use a damp cloth to smooth it out, no sanding needed but it sands nicely. I forgot the lid opened once and it partially hardened, the cool thing was i added a bit of water and after stirring it returned to it's original consistency and need water from time to time. I also use Apoxy Sculpt for larger holes and use Vallejo Putty only a little bit, it can also be thinned with water and it's how they recommend using it instead of sanding.
thanks for sharing! I‘ve also used spackle paste before but I didn‘t like the fact that it re-activates with water after drying. The wood filler I now use has a similar consistency but is a bit more forgiving when you put water on it after drying.
@@evolutionxstudios It depends on the brand, if i leave it a full day to dry, afterwards with a damp cloth smooths out nicely, once it is painted and varnished it doesn't matter.
Thank you! It‘s from cgtrader if you search for Batman there you should find it on the first page. Currently at 21$, the Batman standing on the bat signal in a neutral pose
If your making bigger holes always use a step drill. That will help a lot and it will not bite on the parts and spin them like regular drills. Try it and you will notice a big difference when making bigger holes. Don’t have to be just resin. It applies to all materials.
I have a 3d resin print that has texture (Darth Vader's body suit), and it has tiny support nipples on it where I removed the supports. I haven't cured it under UV yet, and I was wondering how to remove the little nipples without ruining the texture. Any suggestions?
I am looking for a faster and better way to get prints ready for paint. For some reason, I always find missed support marks when I start skintones even though I sanded the model with a Gtool, files, ultrasonic cutter, sand paper. It is very annoying that I get to the part where I am halfway done with a model and I find that random layer line, or a partially sanded nub mark that wasn't visible during the sanding step or the first priming step. I usually go back and resend but I feel like I waste a step.
@evolutionxstudios I wonder if applying two colors of surfacer before I start to sand would help? Like a zenithal prime. That way it picks up the majority of the issues then sand away the defects then repeat.
That texture copy is beyond genius
Thank you 🙏🏻
That texture copy paste is clutch!
Thank you!
Some of the tricks I knew already but some were new to me and quite helpful. Thanks for putting together this video
Thank you for watching and commenting!
This is the best video I've seen so far for perfecting your prints. Thanks
Thanks a lot 🙏🏻
even for a FDM guy this video was very useful, Re-creating texture hack is genius !!
Thanks buddy! Glad you got something out of it as well!
Beg to differ about the resin. I use a toothpick or an old brush to apply very thin layers and cure them one by one with a 405nm wavelength UV torch, that way it cures quickly and allows me to smoothly close those gaps and actually look more natural than with wood filler or miliput, which I also use sometimes but for other purposes.
the foil wrap trick is great and will come in handy for a Malenia model I just printed
Glad it helped!
Amazing Tutorials!!! Thanks
Thank you 🙏🏻
i am trying to build a 30 year old Carnage (from Spider-Man) kit- after having to buy another from Thailand in 2008... thanks for all the tips!
Thanks for watching!
I was so worried about the textures and you came with the most simple solution... Thanks a lot man!
Glad I could help!
Very interesting, did not realize how much work went into a 3d print.
Take care
Thanks Tim! Yeah sometimes post processing is 80% of the work and painting 20% - or at least it feels like it
Thank you for sharing your painting methods, I learned a lot watching this video! Excellemt work!
Thank you!
Thanks so much for the tips. Keep going with this channel because is amazing
Thanks a lot Eliott!
Many great tips! Thank you for sharing
Thank you Jerry!
I mostly use spackle paste(the stuff that goes in between the tiles) for drywall, it's like toothpaste consistency, the cool thing is that it's cheap, bought a container years ago and it still have enough, has no smell, can be thinned with water and also activated with water after it dries so it's easy to use a damp cloth to smooth it out, no sanding needed but it sands nicely.
I forgot the lid opened once and it partially hardened, the cool thing was i added a bit of water and after stirring it returned to it's original consistency and need water from time to time.
I also use Apoxy Sculpt for larger holes and use Vallejo Putty only a little bit, it can also be thinned with water and it's how they recommend using it instead of sanding.
thanks for sharing! I‘ve also used spackle paste before but I didn‘t like the fact that it re-activates with water after drying. The wood filler I now use has a similar consistency but is a bit more forgiving when you put water on it after drying.
@@evolutionxstudios It depends on the brand, if i leave it a full day to dry, afterwards with a damp cloth smooths out nicely, once it is painted and varnished it doesn't matter.
@@TheIcemanModdeler that makes sense!
@@evolutionxstudios It's all i use, never had an issue with it.
Great tips! Thanks for the video. Which Batman model is that?
Thank you! It‘s from cgtrader if you search for Batman there you should find it on the first page. Currently at 21$, the Batman standing on the bat signal in a neutral pose
@@evolutionxstudios found it. Thank you!
If your making bigger holes always use a step drill. That will help a lot and it will not bite on the parts and spin them like regular drills. Try it and you will notice a big difference when making bigger holes. Don’t have to be just resin. It applies to all materials.
Thanks for the tip! I‘ll try that
I have a 3d resin print that has texture (Darth Vader's body suit), and it has tiny support nipples on it where I removed the supports. I haven't cured it under UV yet, and I was wondering how to remove the little nipples without ruining the texture. Any suggestions?
very careful sanding
Whats the red epoxy again.?
Aves Apoxie Sculpt, it‘s available in different colors
It's not "kitchen foil", it's "cling film".
Thanks for the hint!
I am looking for a faster and better way to get prints ready for paint. For some reason, I always find missed support marks when I start skintones even though I sanded the model with a Gtool, files, ultrasonic cutter, sand paper. It is very annoying that I get to the part where I am halfway done with a model and I find that random layer line, or a partially sanded nub mark that wasn't visible during the sanding step or the first priming step. I usually go back and resend but I feel like I waste a step.
Yeah that sucks, happens to me sometimes too!
@evolutionxstudios I wonder if applying two colors of surfacer before I start to sand would help? Like a zenithal prime. That way it picks up the majority of the issues then sand away the defects then repeat.
@ i feel like black primer makes defects show more than grey primer. So maybe just spraying everything black works better for you than grey