SIMPLE Post-Processing steps to SAVE FAILED 3D PRINTS
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
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Always great tips from this channel. I hate to throw my failed prints also and I have a big box full of them 🤣 I save them for practice painting and repairs.
Thanks Jerry! Yeah my box also fills up really fast lately :D
I was having similar layer lines and bent supports like that and it was a suction force issue that the suction cup feature in Lychee helped resolve. And a tip for the textured areas that need repairing is to take a small piece of greenstuff and make a stamp from somewhere it isn't damaged, hot glue it to dowel or something to hold on to, and use that the re-create the texture.
I always check my files for resin and suction cups in UVtools before printing, so that’s not it. Yeah I actually show that trick in the other video I have linked. But not with greenstuff but with hot glue
I had same issue on Photon Mono X 6K, for me it was wornout Anti-Backslash nut on Z axis. Wobble was hardly noticable, but when it was multiplied with peel off forces, it was enough to create terrible layer lines. After replacing nut, it prints like a new machine. At least it worth try - this part is cheap thing :)
Thanks for the hint! I’m not even sure if the Saturn 3 has a anti-backlash nut. Is that at the top of the z axis or at the bottom where the stepper motor is?
@@evolutionxstudios It's the nut that transfers the rotary motion of the lead screw to the build plate and is located on top of the Z axis - on the structure where the build plate is attached. But sorry, I only noticed after reading the comments that you have the same problem on two printers, so that probably won't be the problem in your case ... I don't think an identical mechanical failure on two machines at the same time is likely.
Ještě mě napadá - zkoušel jste zvýšit čas v light-off delay? To také může mít vliv, já u 0.034mm vrstvy používám 1.2s
@@bartt007 Ah gotcha, it's very unlikely yes but I will double check it anyway, thanks!
@@bartt007 Yeah I think I started with the default 1s and went up all the way to 2s. Helped a little, but not much
I have a couple of Anycubic Mono X's and I had a similar issue a while back and I adjusted the layer height and that's now at .025. Sure, it takes longer to print but I save the time on having to sand so much. I would rather be watching Fallout than sanding. 😁
I increased the size of the heavy supports. Contact: 0.5mm. Contact Depth: 0.5mm. Upper Diameter: 1mm. Lower Diameter: 2mm. I would use heaps of heavy supports on areas that were hidden such as the soles of the legs or the upper leg and always placed them on a 45° angle.
I also greased up the spindle at the same time I made all the other adjustments.
With the heavy supports it stopped any movement during the print and the only time I would get minor layer lines was on flat surfaces.
Thanks for the hints buddy! I also try to support the sh** out of the parts where it’s not visible. I‘ll check my support settings and compare them to your suggestions. I also went down from 0.05mm to 0,04mm and that helped a bit. But I can’t imagine how long it would take to print the full build height with 0.025mm 😯
@@evolutionxstudios I print at 0.034mm, which is the pixel size on my printer. And yes, it takes a bit longer - for the full height of the printing surface it's about 24 hours of printing ... But it's still significantly faster than I can paint the printed figures and for me it's worth the higher quality of the print.
For some parts,like bases..I don't mind some failed bits on it..
Its free weathering and battle damage
True!
I've been having a similar issue with my Creality LD-006. I haven't done a proper investigation yet, but the last time it did this it was due to the lead screw and linear rods needing to be tightened a little and lubricated.
Hope that helps 😊
Thanks for sharing, hope you can fix yours! I already checked all the screws (at least the visible ones). Maybe I need to open the printers and also have a look inside
I tend to have a lot of trouble blending in putty, like aves, with the rest of the surface. Its almost like no matter how much i sand theres always a line between the print surface and the putty.
That could be caused due to the different hardness of the resin and putty. In this case it might be better for you to use the resin you print with to fill the last millimeter or small spots
Are the models hollowed? Because hollowed objects are prone to alot of suction force. To greatly reduce failed prints you should decrease the retraction lift speed. I used to have these problems also.
Yeah they are always hollowed with a bunch of holes at the bottom. I also halfed the retraction speed and it definitely made it better but the lines are still there.
Both Saturn 3 s with the same issue? Did you change resin? Was there a temperature drop?
Yeah, and I bought them 7 months apart so they are not even from the same batch. Which is why I think it‘s not a printer hardware problem. I started with Anycubic Standard resin that I always used on my OG Saturn. But I switched to Sunlu ABS Like transparent on one printer and grey on the other. But the problems remained the same. I‘m not sure about the temperature. I always heat the resin up to ~25C before printing. But maybe the air temperature was too cold and that was the problem. I‘m really starting to run out of ideas
That looks to me like an overexposure and z wobble. Re-level your build plate and use cones of calibration to fix that.
I did use the cones of calibration, but even going down to 2,4 seconds the failure side still printed the cones. But when I go down to 2,5 seconds layers on actual prints they start to have layer separations. I even recorded the printer for a couple of hours to see if the z arm wobbles, but couldn’t see anything. And I did have one perfect print so it shouldn’t be that either. My current best bet is that it is temperature related so I‘m currently waiting for warmer weather
Dealing with the exact same issue with my Saturn 2
It’s so frustrating. Did you have it from the beginning?
What putty are you using to fill the layer lines?
I‘m using a 1K automotive putty from presto, coming in a tube. If that brand is not available where you are you can also go for bondo or tamiya
@@evolutionxstudios Thanks, don't get that brand but theres a lot of 1k automotive putty available from other brands (we don't get bondo putty but I do see that I can get tamiya putty)
What kind of putty do you use?
I use a 1K putty from presto, it’s very similar to the Tamiya putty but cheaper
what putty are you using there?
an automotive 1K primer coming in a tube. Brand is "Presto". But any brand should work
Needa add a heater to your machines probably
I actually had a heater on my OG Saturn but at some point I realized that it's enough to heat up the resin before printing. The exothermic reaction did the rest to keep the temperature consistent during the whole print. Thought it works for the Saturn 3 too. But I migh've been wrong.
@evolutionxstudios yes and no. It depends on the resin and your house temp I think. I use siraya fast with 10% tenacious plus a heater kept at 30c. I also print at .1 layer height and print extremely fast with no layer lines. I'm using a Jupiter se. I do get 1 layer line but it's from a slight imperfection on the z rail at like 10cm.
A thing that a lot of people don't realize is that a heater will allow normal resins that don't necessarily need a heater, print way faster with less exposure time. My exposure is 1.5 seconds for .1 layer height for example. Very fast, very clean prints
Hi🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Hey buddy